Appreciate the video, man. Ignore the negative comments; this video was exactly what I needed, clearly explained the disassembly process, and gave cautionary advice when needed. Keep it up.
Nice job and video, good to see some units still have Schrader cores on the pressure switches as some are brazed in now and I think Trane has the 1/4" flare, but a tag that at least tells you there is no core. Makes it easy not to pump down or recover to replace this switch.
I wish everyone used pins if the switches are wrenched on. A brazed on safety switches like Carrier and Rheem use at least don't loosen and leak. I find its easier to disconnect wiring when they fail and add an external pressure switch on a swivel t on the service port.
I need to change the High Pressure Switch on a Lennox 13ACX-030-230-12. The factory switch is Sensata model #100103-03. I understand the original switch is obsolete and was replaced by an automatic reset switch. I wasn't getting cooling, so I went outside and realized nothing was running. Started troubleshooting and found I wasn't getting 24VAC at the control contact. Pressed the reset hard and could get it to start but it was flaky and would just shut back off. I cleaned the coils, which weren't too bad, but still no luck. So I bypassed the switch just to make sure it was the high pressure switch shutting it off. It was that switch and it sounded fine, so I let it run for a few minutes and was getting cold air and normal amperages. I am going to have an AC tech check the pressure for good measure, but I suspect it is just a bad switch. Do you know if my model has the shrader valve under the high pressure switch? It is threaded on, but I can't find that info anywhere online. Thanks!
@@poljam6171 The replacement sensor is Lennox 93W01 Sensata 100087-12. My unit did have a shrader core for anyone looking for it (to prevent loss of refrigerant).
The Lennox unit I just repaired at my home has a pressure switch with a reset switch on it. The outdoor unit would not power on at all. I pushed the button on the High Pressure Switch and the unit started running again. I felt a distinct click when I pushed the button which you can not feel in subsequent pushing.
Hi Hi, A mice or a chipmunk chewed my outside unit high pressure switch's wires and disconnected them, so my outside unit is not running anymore. Can I reconnect them with wire nut or soldering or even with electrical tape? if so, does it make any effect on how the switch supposed to work? Thanks
You can reconnect the wires if enough is left for a splice. Just don’t short the wire to ground or you will burn up a transformer. If the chipmunk hasn’t done that already
Great Video! I just figured out that my problem is high pressure switch . how do I reset it on old system? I cant locate any buttons. are they resetable? or I need to replace it? Thanks in advance!
I have a ac/heat pump. The control board shows a high pressure switch fault. The system works fine in the ac position but when you switch the thermostat to heat it blow the 3amp fuse on the control board.
I’d start using gloves when you touch refrigerant. Plenty of guys bust my balls for it but trust me, over years of work in the field you will develop a nasty chemical burn that will never go away. My dad has it and my old boss has it.
It is a good idea yet connecting refrigerant hoses is a lot safer today than when I first started. I have gotten frostbite burns from refrigerant. Today we have ball valves and low loss fittings. When I started your hi side hose was discharging all the liquid out of it when disconnecting. Today we can safely connect and disconnect with almost no refrigerant coming out
How can I tell if my LP Switch has a schrader valve. It has a hex nut below but I am not sure if it is directly bolted on the pipe, or on a schrader valve. It is a Lennox XC17-036 unit from Year 2013.
it has a Schrader pin under the lp switch. Is your switch faulty or your system pressure low. Lennox had a class-action lawsuit over leaking evap coils. That would give a low-pressure shutdown. Also, cold morning have caused the 5 lp switch openings that cause the lp lock out also
@@thehvachacker I will be measuring the system pressure in a day or two as my set of gauges are with someone who is out of town. I have two similar units and yes on one unit the Evaporator coil was replaced under warranty. Once I know the system pressure, I will know exactly the root cause. I did bypass the LP switch, and the compressor, and fan turned up, but I did not run for more than 45 sec so I could not measure the temp diff to see if we were cooling. Question - what is Lennox policy on warranties when we drop the stupid maintenance plans from installers which end up being more than the cost of the system over time.
I checked the Class Action suit. My first replacement was done under warranty, if this failed I am over the 5 year from date of install claim - lets see topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/closed-settlements/145764-lennox-evaporator-coil-class-action-settlement/
The vapor side pressure is 25, and cannot test anything else as the system is shut down due to the fact the LP switch is open. I suspect a leak. Guess this might rule out the switch and problem lies somewhere else.
I'm helping a friend solve this problem on a Trane that's out of warranty and was going to tee on th service fitting and was worried about that they might leak over time. What's the solution? Leave the Tee off and screw the switch straight to the service fitting?
That is a hi-pressure switch. If the head pressure/ hi side pressure gets too high it opens the 24 volts circuit to the contactor in the condenser to shut down the compressor.
I have a nordyne ac/heat pump. The control board shows a high pressure switch fault but the ac and heat still seem to be working normally. Should I go ahead and replace the switch.
A service tech said that in Florida the HPS was bypassed on most bc it will "never" see a high pressure issue. Looks good on paper but in the real world the system will only fail in a way that drops pressure.
Would you know if a 1993 Tempstar 5500, Model # CH5524VKA2 has a low pressure switch that has a schrader valve? Or how I could find out ? I can see that it does screw on like yours. I don't want to find out the hard way. Thanks!
@@thehvachacker. Thanks. Well, I'm not really having a problem yet but this unit hasn't been serviced in over 12 years and I don't know how long before that. So because of its age I'm hoping to prevent any problems. I've replaced the contactor, the run cap, added a start cap & relay. I also intend to replace the defrost board, coil temp sensor and the low pressure switch. I guess this is what happens when you retire - you look for things to do even if they don't need to be done. I did find out that I could put the pressure sensor on the low side service port if I want to avoid the possibly missing schrader valve. By the way, this pressure sensor measures open. I thought it is supposed to be closed. Or does that change after it's installed in the system? Thanks!
It needs to have pressure on it to close the switch . Those switches rarely ever go bad. That I never changed one for preventive reasons. You can put an access t on the suction valve port or spin it off and if gas keeps coming out spin it right back on. Then you might need some gas if anything escaped. Have you tried to download the installation or service manual for that system? Most have a pin under but not all. It’s usually a gamble that most techs take having alittle gas to put in if no pin was there.
Why change anything just keep the parts and if it breaks change it? I always tried to work on the if not broke don’t touch it motto. Too many times I try to play with something and create more unnecessary work and headaches.
@@thehvachacker Yeah, I know you're right. I was thinking that the system is so old, something is bound to go. Maybe I'll just wait cause I have a similar tendency to try to solve one problem and create two. I do have the manual another tech gave me a link for. Do you think I should read it? Just kidding! Thanks for your responses. By the way, if you're still in the mood to answer newbie questions - what's the dense black material around the coil temp sensor? Is it insulation or just to keep it in place?
Man, i have a tough time watching your videos because you hold your breath so much and then you let the air out of your lungs. Constant gasping for air in every video. But i do like your videos
No. They are connected in series on your 24v circuit to the contactor relay. To diagnose a bad switch, check continuity through both legs. They are typically normally closed.
It depends on the machine. Some of these switches are brazed to the copper and if that the case they need to pull a good vacuum which might take 2-5 hours. Every system is designed different
stop thinking every serviceman is a crook .... we paid to go to school or put in our time to learn to fix these type issues so we are worth every red cent . go ahead and go buy the 1000s we spend in tools too just so u can use tben once in a a blue
How many hours should it take to replace a faulty high pressure switch in a couple years old Trane residential unit? I ask because I just had one replaced and it took the tech 3 hours. Your video makes it look like only a few minutes to complete the work.
That depends on if the switch is threaded on and has a Schrader pin behind it. If not system refrigerant needs to be recovered, then system evacuated, and recharged.
@@Yankee3164 yes absolutely, I've quoted 4 hours before if its brazed in. If there is refrigerant to be recovered that has to happen, then sweat the old one out, install the new one, pressure test and then evacuate. Then comes start up and testing 3 to 4 hours is fair
Not trying to be negative but if you're going to produce a teaching video, you have to figure out how to film your work rather than the ground between your knees.. When you reviewed it, you knew it wasn't good enough.
Average HPS costs around 50$. Assuming it is a normal switch. The job amount can vary from as little as 200$ to as much as 1200$. It all depends on where you live, how much competition you have, and how much the average client makes a year.
do they need to remove the refrigerant from your system to replace. This system has one of the easiest switches to replace, many are brazed/ welded to the copper pipe
i currently have a very slow leak on my low pressure switch. was quoted $708 to replace it (June '24) from a quite reputable dealer here in my area. i said to the tech, "get outt'a here. that can't be that much." he said, "no really, that's what it costs." then, i said to him, "you are misunderstanding me. i said to get outt'a here. that means...pick up all your shit, put it away, clean up, get in your brand new company truck, and get the F outt'a here." i'm sorry, but i don't care good or reputable the person is who is performing the replacement... i don't even care if you can actually walk on water and your name on your birth certificate is 'AC Jesus Christ!'... there is no way on planet earth that a $30 pressure switch replacement should cost $708. I get it... evacuate the lines / save the R410a that's in the system, torch the old switch off, solder the new one on, pull vacuum to confirm good repair, and recharge the system. 1 person for maybe 2 hours total. $325 is what it should cost plus the cost of topping up any lost refrigerant. all you AC companies and techs out there charging this ridiculous amount of money can just go.suck.an.egg. #yousuck #thief #gotohell
Do it yourself then 😂....you forgot to mention that you had no clue what was wrong with your unit in the first place and needed an expert to figure it out. That knowledge isn't free remember that!
It's people like you that makes me money when your shit breaks and needs to be replaced cos you were too cheap to fix it. Spend a dollar to save a dime. Thanks for putting bread on my table 👏
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
Appreciate the video, man. Ignore the negative comments; this video was exactly what I needed, clearly explained the disassembly process, and gave cautionary advice when needed. Keep it up.
Carrier 20 plus years. Never maintained. Works like the first day. Most high bless my home
Jesus Will !
Nice job and video, good to see some units still have Schrader cores on the pressure switches as some are brazed in now and I think Trane has the 1/4" flare, but a tag that at least tells you there is no core. Makes it easy not to pump down or recover to replace this switch.
I wish everyone used pins if the switches are wrenched on. A brazed on safety switches like Carrier and Rheem use at least don't loosen and leak. I find its easier to disconnect wiring when they fail and add an external pressure switch on a swivel t on the service port.
@@thehvachacker this is what you need to do a video on...
Nice to have it Schradered in vs brazed in
De minimis ! Good to know theres a schrader valve behind it. You should consider getting a small tripod for better camera angles.
How dou you know if it has a schrader?
I'm with you man...."My Knee Hurts too!"
Our knees weren’t designed for how we work
Thank you very helpful.
I need to change the High Pressure Switch on a Lennox 13ACX-030-230-12. The factory switch is Sensata model #100103-03. I understand the original switch is obsolete and was replaced by an automatic reset switch. I wasn't getting cooling, so I went outside and realized nothing was running. Started troubleshooting and found I wasn't getting 24VAC at the control contact. Pressed the reset hard and could get it to start but it was flaky and would just shut back off. I cleaned the coils, which weren't too bad, but still no luck. So I bypassed the switch just to make sure it was the high pressure switch shutting it off. It was that switch and it sounded fine, so I let it run for a few minutes and was getting cold air and normal amperages. I am going to have an AC tech check the pressure for good measure, but I suspect it is just a bad switch. Do you know if my model has the shrader valve under the high pressure switch? It is threaded on, but I can't find that info anywhere online. Thanks!
Hi what replacement part number for Sensata #100103-03?thanks
@@poljam6171 The replacement sensor is Lennox 93W01 Sensata 100087-12. My unit did have a shrader core for anyone looking for it (to prevent loss of refrigerant).
Hi Rob, how can we find out whether the AC unit has schrader valve or not? Mine is of model 13ACX-048-230-17.
Kool I just had to know it had scrader behind it
NO clue WHAT you were doing?! This video just shows the "general area" of the switch (bottom of the AC) and the backs of your hands?
so why did you have to change the hp switch?? was the fan and compressor short cycling on and off ??
Found most AC units in fl with High Pressure switches in BYPASS MODE
The Lennox unit I just repaired at my home has a pressure switch with a reset switch on it. The outdoor unit would not power on at all. I pushed the button on the High Pressure Switch and the unit started running again. I felt a distinct click when I pushed the button which you can not feel in subsequent pushing.
Hi
Hi,
A mice or a chipmunk chewed my outside unit high pressure switch's wires and disconnected them, so my outside unit is not running anymore. Can I reconnect them with wire nut or soldering or even with electrical tape? if so, does it make any effect on how the switch supposed to work?
Thanks
You can reconnect the wires if enough is left for a splice. Just don’t short the wire to ground or you will burn up a transformer. If the chipmunk hasn’t done that already
Both of wires have the same color - Yellow with a Red stripe - can I reconnect them in any order? I'm not sure which one goes to which.
That’s wired in series u can reconnect either way
D
I don’t remember how I lost your videos but I think it was when I replaced a phone.
Great Video!
I just figured out that my problem is high pressure switch . how do I reset it on old system? I cant locate any buttons. are they resetable? or I need to replace it?
Thanks in advance!
Some are resettable and some aren't. There will be a button on the top of the switch if its resettable.
I have a ac/heat pump. The control board shows a high pressure switch fault. The system works fine in the ac position but when you switch the thermostat to heat it blow the 3amp fuse on the control board.
Any chance you could tell me if Ducane has a scrader valve? Thanks
I agree with the comment below......Please consider the person watching your video.............I cannot watch the video all over the place!
Also, remember the people watching your video are not professionals so you need to fully explain and show what you are doing!
I’d start using gloves when you touch refrigerant. Plenty of guys bust my balls for it but trust me, over years of work in the field you will develop a nasty chemical burn that will never go away. My dad has it and my old boss has it.
It is a good idea yet connecting refrigerant hoses is a lot safer today than when I first started. I have gotten frostbite burns from refrigerant. Today we have ball valves and low loss fittings. When I started your hi side hose was discharging all the liquid out of it when disconnecting. Today we can safely connect and disconnect with almost no refrigerant coming out
How can I tell if my LP Switch has a schrader valve. It has a hex nut below but I am not sure if it is directly bolted on the pipe, or on a schrader valve. It is a Lennox XC17-036 unit from Year 2013.
it has a Schrader pin under the lp switch. Is your switch faulty or your system pressure low. Lennox had a class-action lawsuit over leaking evap coils. That would give a low-pressure shutdown. Also, cold morning have caused the 5 lp switch openings that cause the lp lock out also
@@thehvachacker I will be measuring the system pressure in a day or two as my set of gauges are with someone who is out of town. I have two similar units and yes on one unit the Evaporator coil was replaced under warranty.
Once I know the system pressure, I will know exactly the root cause. I did bypass the LP switch, and the compressor, and fan turned up, but I did not run for more than 45 sec so I could not measure the temp diff to see if we were cooling.
Question - what is Lennox policy on warranties when we drop the stupid maintenance plans from installers which end up being more than the cost of the system over time.
I checked the Class Action suit. My first replacement was done under warranty, if this failed I am over the 5 year from date of install claim - lets see
topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/closed-settlements/145764-lennox-evaporator-coil-class-action-settlement/
The vapor side pressure is 25, and cannot test anything else as the system is shut down due to the fact the LP switch is open. I suspect a leak. Guess this might rule out the switch and problem lies somewhere else.
The system is shut down due to low pressure. 25 is the reason the system is shut down on a low pressure fault
Quick question- do you HAVE to use a indoor freeze stat with low ambient pressure switch?
I would always recommend it. If your running an ac system in cold weather situations.
We use Swivel T in HP switches or Low. But they Leak for sure
I'm helping a friend solve this problem on a Trane that's out of warranty and was going to tee on th service fitting and was worried about that they might leak over time. What's the solution? Leave the Tee off and screw the switch straight to the service fitting?
I’m new in the field what is that relay wired to do?
That is a hi-pressure switch. If the head pressure/ hi side pressure gets too high it opens the 24 volts circuit to the contactor in the condenser to shut down the compressor.
Phew - need to know that wiring.
I have a nordyne ac/heat pump. The control board shows a high pressure switch fault but the ac and heat still seem to be working normally. Should I go ahead and replace the switch.
Need to know the pressure to see if it’s the switch or something else.
This looks like the High pressure switch that I need, What is this part number?
Same did you find out the part
A service tech said that in Florida the HPS was bypassed on most bc it will "never" see a high pressure issue. Looks good on paper but in the real world the system will only fail in a way that drops pressure.
Would you know if a 1993 Tempstar 5500, Model # CH5524VKA2 has a low pressure switch that has a schrader valve? Or how I could find out ? I can see that it does screw on like yours. I don't want to find out the hard way. Thanks!
I am not sure you. Why are you trying to take it off?
@@thehvachacker. Thanks. Well, I'm not really having a problem yet but this unit hasn't been serviced in over 12 years and I don't know how long before that. So because of its age I'm hoping to prevent any problems. I've replaced the contactor, the run cap, added a start cap & relay. I also intend to replace the defrost board, coil temp sensor and the low pressure switch. I guess this is what happens when you retire - you look for things to do even if they don't need to be done. I did find out that I could put the pressure sensor on the low side service port if I want to avoid the possibly missing schrader valve. By the way, this pressure sensor measures open. I thought it is supposed to be closed. Or does that change after it's installed in the system? Thanks!
It needs to have pressure on it to close the switch . Those switches rarely ever go bad. That I never changed one for preventive reasons. You can put an access t on the suction valve port or spin it off and if gas keeps coming out spin it right back on. Then you might need some gas if anything escaped. Have you tried to download the installation or service manual for that system? Most have a pin under but not all. It’s usually a gamble that most techs take having alittle gas to put in if no pin was there.
Why change anything just keep the parts and if it breaks change it? I always tried to work on the if not broke don’t touch it motto. Too many times I try to play with something and create more unnecessary work and headaches.
@@thehvachacker Yeah, I know you're right. I was thinking that the system is so old, something is bound to go. Maybe I'll just wait cause I have a similar tendency to try to solve one problem and create two. I do have the manual another tech gave me a link for. Do you think I should read it? Just kidding! Thanks for your responses. By the way, if you're still in the mood to answer newbie questions - what's the dense black material around the coil temp sensor? Is it insulation or just to keep it in place?
Please explain the wiring better. Tell us more of what’s going on.
Do you not put nylog on yours sorry if not spelled right
Sometimes yet nylon eats up gaskets on my tools. Many times I just use vacuum pump oil works just as good as nylog
How do you bypass you high pressure switch
Man, i have a tough time watching your videos because you hold your breath so much and then you let the air out of your lungs. Constant gasping for air in every video. But i do like your videos
That’s probably the dumbest complaint on the internet.
WOW. I’m getting DIZZY Watching this Video !
If that switch is bad will the contactor pull in?
No. They are connected in series on your 24v circuit to the contactor relay. To diagnose a bad switch, check continuity through both legs. They are typically normally closed.
Hmmm, my tech said he'd have to do about 4-$500 worth of removing refrigerant to replace the switch and then putting refrigant back in the system.
It depends on the machine. Some of these switches are brazed to the copper and if that the case they need to pull a good vacuum which might take 2-5 hours. Every system is designed different
The HVAC Hacker thanks, it looks like it’s connected to the copper.
stop thinking every serviceman is a crook .... we paid to go to school or put in our time to learn to fix these type issues so we are worth every red cent . go ahead and go buy the 1000s we spend in tools too just so u can use tben once in a a blue
Worst instruction video yet. Wow!
My presure switch opens and close every second, do you think that is a bad switch? Will any switch work or do I have to get exact the same?
You need to get the switches rated and designed for your systems operating pressure
Also verify it's not a pressure issue yet an issue with the switch
I can't tell whether you had to pump it down or not it looks like you didn't
I did pump the system down.
@@thehvachacker why if you just had to replace a hps?
I can't tell where the second wire goes in you gotta redo this video.
Facts , video was a complete waste of time smh
Well just check where wires are connected on old switch and put them back
@@austinamd4416 Thanks man
You know how to fix that conditions but you don't know how to make a video, it needs to be edit when you get home
Nah it’s fine
camera angles suck!
Sorry but I can't see anything didn't get anything out of this video you should redo it
How many hours should it take to replace a faulty high pressure switch in a couple years old Trane residential unit?
I ask because I just had one replaced and it took the tech 3 hours. Your video makes it look like only a few minutes to complete the work.
That depends on if the switch is threaded on and has a Schrader pin behind it. If not system refrigerant needs to be recovered, then system evacuated, and recharged.
@@thehvachacker So, 3 hours could be a reasonable time?
@@Yankee3164 yes absolutely, I've quoted 4 hours before if its brazed in. If there is refrigerant to be recovered that has to happen, then sweat the old one out, install the new one, pressure test and then evacuate. Then comes start up and testing 3 to 4 hours is fair
Not trying to be negative but if you're going to produce a teaching video, you have to figure out how to film your work rather than the ground between your knees.. When you reviewed it, you knew it wasn't good enough.
Price range of this job?
That depends on where you live
Average HPS costs around 50$. Assuming it is a normal switch. The job amount can vary from as little as 200$ to as much as 1200$. It all depends on where you live, how much competition you have, and how much the average client makes a year.
Why am i being quoted $900 to replace mine
do they need to remove the refrigerant from your system to replace. This system has one of the easiest switches to replace, many are brazed/ welded to the copper pipe
Cutting the wires and removing about half their length would have made it a neater job, instead of just coiling up the extra.
Just putting the system back to how Lennox designed it
Who’s gonna be checking how neat it is
Easier to do amp draws if the wire has some play
@@frankduarte4270 preach
i shut this off it was so damn terrible.
Sloppy
سبلت 3 طن عطل E1
Terrible video... couldn't you have found someone to hold the camera so we could see what you were doing?
Worst camera shoot of all time, garbage
i currently have a very slow leak on my low pressure switch. was quoted $708 to replace it (June '24) from a quite reputable dealer here in my area. i said to the tech, "get outt'a here. that can't be that much." he said, "no really, that's what it costs." then, i said to him, "you are misunderstanding me. i said to get outt'a here. that means...pick up all your shit, put it away, clean up, get in your brand new company truck, and get the F outt'a here."
i'm sorry, but i don't care good or reputable the person is who is performing the replacement... i don't even care if you can actually walk on water and your name on your birth certificate is 'AC Jesus Christ!'... there is no way on planet earth that a $30 pressure switch replacement should cost $708. I get it... evacuate the lines / save the R410a that's in the system, torch the old switch off, solder the new one on, pull vacuum to confirm good repair, and recharge the system. 1 person for maybe 2 hours total. $325 is what it should cost plus the cost of topping up any lost refrigerant. all you AC companies and techs out there charging this ridiculous amount of money can just go.suck.an.egg. #yousuck #thief #gotohell
Do it yourself then 😂....you forgot to mention that you had no clue what was wrong with your unit in the first place and needed an expert to figure it out. That knowledge isn't free remember that!
It's people like you that makes me money when your shit breaks and needs to be replaced cos you were too cheap to fix it. Spend a dollar to save a dime. Thanks for putting bread on my table 👏
Lol do it yourself then guy. Why you calling people out there if you have such a bad attitude. I think you need to get over yourself a little to a lot
It might help if your hands weren't in the way all the time. Nice try though