Built a sheet metal brake before TH-cam doing it all out of my head. Used aweful expensive heim joints, massive metal components and by the time I was done it could bend eigth inch plate but was god awful heavy. Sold it and using video's like this with terrific ideas to build a new one that was lighter and more portable but still fairly capable. My contribution would be a four things. The holes for the hold down bar I drilled out 3/4 inch for a 5/8 in rod. That combined with the stop bolts the gentlemen below recomended allows an adgustment to to eigth inch plate in shorter widths obviously. Also for the two rod mechanisms holding down the clamp bar I welding in half inch sockets. That allows for a removable handle where you can get maximum leverage but remove it so there's no chance a handle will be in the way when bending full length peices of metal. Thirdly I like the non spring method. That's the two rods with a stop bolt under the clamp bar ends that allows you to raise the clamp bar up inches instead of a fractional amount. You'd be surprised how handy that can prove to be. Finally those bullet hinges this gentleman used are terrific but expensive. If you want to save some money with only a minimal sacrifice in functionality use your imagination and what you have handy. I used a 3/4 inch water pipe and rod and it worked out just fine. In the end you'll find putting a sharp edge on the hold down bar and those stop bolts for the hold down bar will get you a tighter radius then worring about the hinge tolerances.
You need to add 2 x adjustment stop bolts behind the clamp down bar, adjustable to push the clamp forward or backwards. Problem is, when folding, the clamp down bar will be forced backwards, the lock down bolts you have will not stop that happening, so you need the stops, this will also tighten up the radius.
Another homebuilt to assist your build - a drill & tap alignment block. Starting a hand held tap wrench centered in the tap drilled hole is difficult, often skewed on an angle hopefully not breaking the tap. I found a 7/8" X 1" X 3" cold rolled steel cut off drop. Drilled a series of tap & nominal randomly spaced holes of frequently used bolt sizes. This permits the tap drill to be drilled perpendicular to the surface with a hand drill then the thread to be tapped with tap wrench. Don't forget to lubricate the tap, break the chip and blow the chips away frequently.
Nice except for the clamps being on end makes a stress point that gives, best to flatten top end of angle iron and clamp down there won't give at all,, and grind Sharp edge on angle iron edge,, I have one 20 years old and can't really improve on it l made a separate top piece from 11/2 round pipe now I can do radious bends of any diameter by just sliding metal.
brilliant build. if I can suggest you could put a scale on one end, to allow you to precisely bend to 30 45 90 etc without having to eye-ball everything
I doubt a scale would help much. Different metals, different lengths all bend differently. With my home made brake I made 30 years ago bend slightly over the angle you desire then pulling it back a hair does the trick. Most metal excepting perhaps aluminum want to spring back a bit in any event.
I built one like this and now see how I can improve mine to be like yours. A problem I have is doing narrow (length wise) pieces is that they are only held down by the leading edge and slide back when I try to bend them. I'm making a patch that is 1.5 inches wide and 11 inches long. I need a slight bend at 1/2 inches but can't do it accurately because the sheet metal moves. Thanks for a good video.
Awesomeness!!!!! Excellent build bud !!!! Just a lil food for thought..... I see u using good quality tools all but the harbor freight welding hood. Don’t really know if I would trust that to protect my eye sight. The uv rays from welding does so much more damage than we realize. Anyway....... really nice build !!!! U should be proud of ur brake. I know I would !!!
Fine job! I got really lucky and an old Chicago break from a local Air Force Base showed up at mt local metal recyclers. $400 for that and $300 in sandblasting and paint and it looks new....but I had to pay up a little. Fine video!!
Thank you for making this video. I will be making one also. I can't seem to track down the same hinge pins from my trailer parts store or any of our hardware stores. Do you have a link you could post for your hinge pins?
Sorry, I don't have a link. I bought them out of a bulk bin at my local store. It's an old school store with hand written price tags, no computer codes or QR codes. Try etrailer.com.
Awesome, awesome job , that’s way better than the ‘China-Freight’ ones. You are a great fabricator my friend. You will get many years of use out of that, excellent job. 👍
when bending thicker material, do you need to have an adjustable clampdown bar to move back from the folding edge? let's say at least the thickness of the plate that you're bending?
Good build but not to bust your bubble I think you need to reread your measurements cause that angle is definitely not 3/8 thick . It's either 3/16 or 1/4 also it's not pre-bent , it is cold rolled
Just measured both the base angle and the bending angle. Both measure 0.375" and 0.381" respectively so, yes they are 3/8" like I correctly stated in the video. Also they are both hot rolled as evident by the mill scale, not bent. Don't know where that came from.
Built a sheet metal brake before TH-cam doing it all out of my head. Used aweful expensive heim joints, massive metal components and by the time I was done it could bend eigth inch plate but was god awful heavy. Sold it and using video's like this with terrific ideas to build a new one that was lighter and more portable but still fairly capable.
My contribution would be a four things. The holes for the hold down bar I drilled out 3/4 inch for a 5/8 in rod. That combined with the stop bolts the gentlemen below recomended allows an adgustment to to eigth inch plate in shorter widths obviously. Also for the two rod mechanisms holding down the clamp bar I welding in half inch sockets. That allows for a removable handle where you can get maximum leverage but remove it so there's no chance a handle will be in the way when bending full length peices of metal.
Thirdly I like the non spring method. That's the two rods with a stop bolt under the clamp bar ends that allows you to raise the clamp bar up inches instead of a fractional amount. You'd be surprised how handy that can prove to be.
Finally those bullet hinges this gentleman used are terrific but expensive. If you want to save some money with only a minimal sacrifice in functionality use your imagination and what you have handy. I used a 3/4 inch water pipe and rod and it worked out just fine. In the end you'll find putting a sharp edge on the hold down bar and those stop bolts for the hold down bar will get you a tighter radius then worring about the hinge tolerances.
I like your idea, 'I ain't got one so I'll build one'... Good thinking and job well done!!
I am constructing one for myself right now. Thanks for the inspiration.
Building is fun and a bonus when it works. Good job.
You need to add 2 x adjustment stop bolts behind the clamp down bar, adjustable to push the clamp forward or backwards.
Problem is, when folding, the clamp down bar will be forced backwards, the lock down bolts you have will not stop that happening, so you need the stops, this will also tighten up the radius.
I do like homemade shop tools and this one is a win. good job and thanks for sharing the build video
Great video, showed us what could go wrong and everything. Thanks very, very much !
Another homebuilt to assist your build - a drill & tap alignment block. Starting a hand held tap wrench centered in the tap drilled hole is difficult, often skewed on an angle hopefully not breaking the tap.
I found a 7/8" X 1" X 3" cold rolled steel cut off drop. Drilled a series of tap & nominal randomly spaced holes of frequently used bolt sizes. This permits the tap drill to be drilled perpendicular to the surface with a hand drill then the thread to be tapped with tap wrench.
Don't forget to lubricate the tap, break the chip and blow the chips away frequently.
Nice except for the clamps being on end makes a stress point that gives, best to flatten top end of angle iron and clamp down there won't give at all,, and grind Sharp edge on angle iron edge,, I have one 20 years old and can't really improve on it l made a separate top piece from 11/2 round pipe now I can do radious bends of any diameter by just sliding metal.
brilliant build. if I can suggest you could put a scale on one end, to allow you to precisely bend to 30 45 90 etc without having to eye-ball everything
Thats a good idea 👍
I doubt a scale would help much. Different metals, different lengths all bend differently. With my home made brake I made 30 years ago bend slightly over the angle you desire then pulling it back a hair does the trick. Most metal excepting perhaps aluminum want to spring back a bit in any event.
Hahaha that was the quickest "forgot which hole I tapped" lol great video. Cant wait to build one
Nice job looks awesome 😅
Great video I think it is fantastic being able to build this sort of stuff you save so much money with very little outlay.
As many videos as I've watched to make a brake like this, this one will be my choice.
Good job, ( my opinion of course )
Thank you. I have used it a lot.
Thanks saw your brake thanks for link at end of trunk sheet metal
They just keep getting better
👍
Great job,gave me an idea🤔👍
Mig, thats what I need. Got Lincoln stick.
I never would have thought to build a brake like that! Can't wait to see how long it lasts for you! Looks like a good, solid build!
It works good. I need to add a gusset to the bending arm because that flexs a little at 48" widths.
Excellent build my friend.... greeting's from the UK.....I shall have to copy your design...hope you don't mind...lol.... regards Tony
Please do. I got a lot of the ideas from other videos. It works great and I don't regret building it one bit!
I built one like this and now see how I can improve mine to be like yours. A problem I have is doing narrow (length wise) pieces is that they are only held down by the leading edge and slide back when I try to bend them. I'm making a patch that is 1.5 inches wide and 11 inches long. I need a slight bend at 1/2 inches but can't do it accurately because the sheet metal moves. Thanks for a good video.
Impressive. Good work
great idea.
Awesomeness!!!!! Excellent build bud !!!! Just a lil food for thought..... I see u using good quality tools all but the harbor freight welding hood. Don’t really know if I would trust that to protect my eye sight. The uv rays from welding does so much more damage than we realize. Anyway....... really nice build !!!! U should be proud of ur brake. I know I would !!!
I know, I need to get a better one next time I get my MIG gas filled at the welding store.
Easy beezy good going.
Great video
Wicked, I’m looking for ideas to build one. U built a nice Brake.
Thanks. Works good
I allowed a 4 to 5 ' bender w removeable sections slip thru my fingers 😥
I was a fabricator yrs back...my favorite job.
Fine job! I got really lucky and an old Chicago break from a local Air Force Base showed up at mt local metal recyclers. $400 for that and $300 in sandblasting and paint and it looks new....but I had to pay up a little. Fine video!!
Good score!
Well Done Sir
Well done, building one that is 2 meters long so i can bend wire mesh. Cat run project 300x300x 2 meters long. I need to bend at least 10 of them
good job.
Make a separate top jig from 11/2 inch round pipe and you can slap do radious bends easily.
Great video! I like how simple you made this brake... I'm planning one right now. Glad I found your channel
Thanks! Mine works great 👍
Thank you for making this video. I will be making one also. I can't seem to track down the same hinge pins from my trailer parts store or any of our hardware stores. Do you have a link you could post for your hinge pins?
Sorry, I don't have a link. I bought them out of a bulk bin at my local store. It's an old school store with hand written price tags, no computer codes or QR codes. Try etrailer.com.
Love it! Will it do 4' long 20 gauge and 18 gauge sheet metal? Thank you
Yes, I have done 4' 18 ga a couple of times already.
Excellent thank you. May just have to makes us one. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Maybe by shaping the back edge of the top arm would give a crisper fold what do you reckon would it work
GREAT VIDEO, I AM SUPRISED THAT HEAVY ANGLE CLAMP DEFLECTED WITH JUST 18 GAUGE, HAVE YOU TRIED BENDING THICKER STEEL AFTER THE TRUSS INSTALL?
Bend some 16 ga with it. The bender plate also needs more bracing as thar flexes under full length bends
Awesome, awesome job , that’s way better than the ‘China-Freight’ ones. You are a great fabricator my friend. You will get many years of use out of that, excellent job. 👍
when bending thicker material, do you need to have an adjustable clampdown bar to move back from the folding edge? let's say at least the thickness of the plate that you're bending?
No. The clamp bar isn't precise enough to make a difference with material thickness.
Thank you for the video. I'm building one based on your video. What type of welder are you using?
I have the Miller Multimatic 215, great machine.
whats the thickest sheet metal you bent so far? and great build 👍
16 ga
You're so smart.
If the ladies don't find you handsome at least they can find you handy.
@@QuickSpeedShop awesome build , younger version of my old pal Red Green . cheers B
Quick question...why drill and tap as opposed to welding? To prevent warping or?
Could do it that way too.
How did it bend?!
Works good. Used it a bunch.
what is the toughest bend you have done with your brake? guage and length please.
36" 18 ga
Muito bom.simples e prática
What about a material list that you used? please
I don't have one. I just used a bunch of cutoffs I bought at the steel yard
Thats going to last forever.
No bolt action you need to make adjustable truss for top and bottom ,, 3 foot is really maximum you can do with out really making a heavy duty brake
$230 is a deal I've been looking at breaks in the 50" range and it's like they build them using precious metals or something with the prices.
Yes. I didn't have a couple of grand to spend on a used 48" brake.
Would like to see 48" bend
Good build but not to bust your bubble I think you need to reread your measurements cause that angle is definitely not 3/8 thick . It's either 3/16 or 1/4 also it's not pre-bent , it is cold rolled
Just measured both the base angle and the bending angle. Both measure 0.375" and 0.381" respectively so, yes they are 3/8" like I correctly stated in the video. Also they are both hot rolled as evident by the mill scale, not bent. Don't know where that came from.
maybe get an old box wrench and weld it as a handle instead of drill everytime. dont need a ton of torque to hold.it
I did just that
@QuickSpeedShop amazing..what a great job I'm gonna take your idea and build me 1 if you don't mind lol
You talk too much. Just do it.
Thank you
Mute?😁