Great video I want to go pull the bearings from one of the cars. Just for the fun of it. I like the Maddox tool I've never owned one of those but now it's going in the shopping cart.
Keep them videos coming. Don't forget to pack the bearing with grease before you install it onto the flange. I use the old school "grease on palm of hand" method and rotate the bearing while packing it until just enough grease travels from once side to the other. Don't over do it. I don't believe the FSM mentions the grease packing of the bearings. Use the FSM recommended grease quantity and evenly distribute the grease on the bearings, shaft and carrier. As for the dial indicator. The quality of the dial gauge holder is the key. Good strong magnetic base will work. Good luck!
The FSM says to "coat or fill" the bearings and the area inside between the races with "multi-purpose" grease. No mention of how much. That is where common sense steps in. ha ha.... too much = heat, too little = failure
There are lots of ways to do things. Not everyone has access to manuals and fancy tools, and sometimes a quick tap with a ball pin hammer will take care of business.🤣
As your outer race was spinning loosely on removal, may I suggest you mic/measure the spec between your housing & race before reassembly of new parts.You run the risk of refitting good parts on a slightly worn housing.Your vids are an appreciated hands-on/how-to info source .May you & yours be blessed.
Тоже делал такую работу, на одном из своих 126х. Мерседес одно удовольствие в удобстве ремонта, особенно, когда это старый Мерседес. Делали же раньше для людей авто, настоящие инженеры! Отличная работа, по поводу смазки - современные, синтетика Кастрол или Валволайн, вполне не хуже оригинала, а где то даже и лучше, насчет момента затяжки деформируемой проставки, не помню какое там значение, не забудь проверить.
Mr. Impalaman, you are on the way to becoming Mr. Mercedesman! Great Job! And yes, the German Manual calls this part a ring, not a race. Mercedes subcontracts translation work to highly degreed Language experts who do not know what a screw drive is, never mind bearings and associated parts. They get paid 5 cents per word. Your buddy Peter from Kansas
@@ImpalamansGarage yes, it adds up. Btw. when the SKF bearings have Germany stamped on them then they are to 99% of the time the original bearings. SKF has also discovered the joy and happiness which comes with cheap labor….. All the original parts I replaced on my 560SEL were made in Germany back then. 85% of the MB / Bosch parts I put back in were made anywhere but Germany……
@@ImpalamansGarage thank you Mr. Impalaman! Got one coming now for future use when I need to do this job! And thanks for your videos, they are very helpful! Your buddy Peter from Kansas
Nice work Impalaman, just a thought to share that sometimes tapping one race in with the other can end up with them both tight in the hole, I always use a brass drift to install the new one since it happened to me. Best days to you and yours 👍
@@ImpalamansGarage- If you have a metal supply or non-ferrous shop near you get a six or eight inch long piece of half inch stock. Mine has lasted at least twenty years now 👍
Where did you find that service manual? I have the one for the power and drive train but have yet to find one for the rest of the 300sd variants. Thanks and keep up the great work! I've just finished rebuilding the entirety of my 82 300sd undercarriage and suspension thanks to many of your videos!
Don't hate me but ..... and I'm not making this up..... this car CAME WITH the official Mercedes chassis and body factory service manual two-volume set sitting in the trunk. Previous owner had purchased them. I noticed it when I got the car home. 😄😄
@@ImpalamansGarage man...now THAT is some luck. Can't wait for the next part where I see how badly I messed up the preload on the bearings, after messing with trying to keep an indicator steady on the wheel flange for almost an hour and getting varied results, I took the Neanderthal approach and snugged them until there was sufficient drag and then dimpled the lock nut. Guess I'll find out soon enough how long those bearings last because of that.
I’m working on greasing front wheel bearing on my MB W124. I’m assuming that you would recommend using a dial indicator to set the preload ? Vs by feel? Thanks
Hey dude. Thanks for stopping by. When I rebuilt the front end on my car I went by feel when tightening the front bearing lock nut. As I recall, when I tried to follow the spec, the hub seemed too tight to me so I did it by feel. The spec from Mercedes is .01 to .02 mm for end play. I've not had an issue however.
Would love a part number for the bearing kit from trucktec. The only kit I have found that works properly is the FAG kit which is out of stock. The Viaco kit bearings are wrong (no clearance in the outer race as it seats on the hub) and the Viaco crush ring needs too much force to crush for the application.
F 35 217a is the part number on the niemoeller. www.niemoeller.de/en/w126/mb280s-126021-motor-110926/B021/356006/f35217a-repair-kit-rear-wheel-bearings
It took me a second to understand what I was looking at. I forgot these are live axle setups so have a bearing hub. The only memory I have of rear bearings is of solid axles so the bearing (single) is pressed on the axle. What's the torque spec for that axle nut? We used to press them off and on at a parts store I worked at in the 60s. No way any DIYer could do it with anything but a press so most just pulled the axle and brought it to us.
There is no torque spec for the nut. You tighten it and compress the crush washer on the axle flange until you meet the end play spec of .04 to .06 mm. If I had to guess I would say it takes more than 300 lb/ft to tighten it properly.
@@ImpalamansGarage To bad you can't get a torque multiplier on there like they use on centerlock wheels. That would make it a lot easier. I think I remember them saying 390 pounds on them. Didn't you say while filming it was .004 to .006. I'd have to go back over it. Either way it ain't going anywhere. 🤷 Are you doing the other side?
@@wernerdanler2742 that is an interesting idea about the torque multiplier. That tool is too big to fit in that area behind the wheel carrier. To use it on the slotted nut you would have to remove the entire trailing arm assembly. However if I modified the flange tool I made to add a central 3/4 or one inch socket drive, you could use the torque multiplier and you could probably do the job by hand without using the jack. Interesting.
@@ImpalamansGarage I was wondering if there could be different thread on the left side. I bought new one but I'm not sure if it gonna fit. Sadly there is no catalogue number on the part :/
I've been using Valvoline wheel bearing grease made for disc brake wheels. Have never had an issue with it. It's red. I'm running it in the front bearings now. It would be interesting to see a chemical analysis between Mercedes branded lubricants and after market brands.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[2/2] ประสบการณ์ขนหัวลุกจากตำนานวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T_kFecQw7Ds/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video I want to go pull the bearings from one of the cars. Just for the fun of it. I like the Maddox tool I've never owned one of those but now it's going in the shopping cart.
Keep them videos coming. Don't forget to pack the bearing with grease before you install it onto the flange. I use the old school "grease on palm of hand" method and rotate the bearing while packing it until just enough grease travels from once side to the other. Don't over do it. I don't believe the FSM mentions the grease packing of the bearings. Use the FSM recommended grease quantity and evenly distribute the grease on the bearings, shaft and carrier. As for the dial indicator. The quality of the dial gauge holder is the key. Good strong magnetic base will work. Good luck!
The FSM says to "coat or fill" the bearings and the area inside between the races with "multi-purpose" grease. No mention of how much. That is where common sense steps in. ha ha.... too much = heat, too little = failure
In retrospect the outer bearing was pretty dry. I believe the outer grease seal simply deteriorated over time and allowed contamination.
It’s nice to see some improvising and progress happening on this. Well done on the video and amazing work again Mr.Impalaman!
There are lots of ways to do things. Not everyone has access to manuals and fancy tools, and sometimes a quick tap with a ball pin hammer will take care of business.🤣
@@ImpalamansGarage ya can’t argue with that logic! 😂
As your outer race was spinning loosely on removal, may I suggest you mic/measure the spec between your housing & race before reassembly of new parts.You run the risk of refitting good parts on a slightly worn housing.Your vids are an appreciated hands-on/how-to info source .May you & yours be blessed.
We are the same page. I was concerned with that as well.
Тоже делал такую работу, на одном из своих 126х. Мерседес одно удовольствие в удобстве ремонта, особенно, когда это старый Мерседес. Делали же раньше для людей авто, настоящие инженеры! Отличная работа, по поводу смазки - современные, синтетика Кастрол или Валволайн, вполне не хуже оригинала, а где то даже и лучше, насчет момента затяжки деформируемой проставки, не помню какое там значение, не забудь проверить.
Mr. Impalaman, you are on the way to becoming Mr. Mercedesman!
Great Job!
And yes, the German Manual calls this part a ring, not a race.
Mercedes subcontracts translation work to highly degreed Language experts who do not know what a screw drive is, never mind bearings and associated parts. They get paid 5 cents per word.
Your buddy Peter from Kansas
😳😳those nickels add up I reckon !
@@ImpalamansGarage yes, it adds up. Btw. when the SKF bearings have Germany stamped on them then they are to 99% of the time the original bearings.
SKF has also discovered the joy and happiness which comes with cheap labor…..
All the original parts I replaced on my 560SEL were made in Germany back then. 85% of the MB / Bosch parts I put back in were made anywhere but Germany……
@@ImpalamansGarage btw. could you please post the part number for the big bearing splitter? Thanks Your buddy Peter from Kansas
@@inovahightechltd www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-63662.html
@@ImpalamansGarage thank you Mr. Impalaman! Got one coming now for future use when I need to do this job! And thanks for your videos, they are very helpful! Your buddy Peter from Kansas
Nice job.👍
Nice work Impalaman, just a thought to share that sometimes tapping one race in with the other can end up with them both tight in the hole, I always use a brass drift to install the new one since it happened to me. Best days to you and yours 👍
You know I don't own a brass drift? That is my next tool purchase.
@@ImpalamansGarage- If you have a metal supply or non-ferrous shop near you get a six or eight inch long piece of half inch stock. Mine has lasted at least twenty years now 👍
Where did you find that service manual? I have the one for the power and drive train but have yet to find one for the rest of the 300sd variants. Thanks and keep up the great work! I've just finished rebuilding the entirety of my 82 300sd undercarriage and suspension thanks to many of your videos!
Don't hate me but ..... and I'm not making this up..... this car CAME WITH the official Mercedes chassis and body factory service manual two-volume set sitting in the trunk. Previous owner had purchased them. I noticed it when I got the car home. 😄😄
@@ImpalamansGarage man...now THAT is some luck. Can't wait for the next part where I see how badly I messed up the preload on the bearings, after messing with trying to keep an indicator steady on the wheel flange for almost an hour and getting varied results, I took the Neanderthal approach and snugged them until there was sufficient drag and then dimpled the lock nut. Guess I'll find out soon enough how long those bearings last because of that.
I’m working on greasing front wheel bearing on my MB W124. I’m assuming that you would recommend using a dial indicator to set the preload ? Vs by feel? Thanks
Hey dude. Thanks for stopping by. When I rebuilt the front end on my car I went by feel when tightening the front bearing lock nut. As I recall, when I tried to follow the spec, the hub seemed too tight to me so I did it by feel. The spec from Mercedes is .01 to .02 mm for end play. I've not had an issue however.
Would love a part number for the bearing kit from trucktec. The only kit I have found that works properly is the FAG kit which is out of stock. The Viaco kit bearings are wrong (no clearance in the outer race as it seats on the hub) and the Viaco crush ring needs too much force to crush for the application.
F 35 217a is the part number on the niemoeller. www.niemoeller.de/en/w126/mb280s-126021-motor-110926/B021/356006/f35217a-repair-kit-rear-wheel-bearings
Sometimes,tool on vehicle violence is therapeutic. Physically and linguistically... 😏
It took me a second to understand what I was looking at. I forgot these are live axle setups so have a bearing hub.
The only memory I have of rear bearings is of solid axles so the bearing (single) is pressed on the axle.
What's the torque spec for that axle nut?
We used to press them off and on at a parts store I worked at in the 60s. No way any DIYer could do it with anything but a press so most just pulled the axle and brought it to us.
There is no torque spec for the nut. You tighten it and compress the crush washer on the axle flange until you meet the end play spec of .04 to .06 mm. If I had to guess I would say it takes more than 300 lb/ft to tighten it properly.
@@ImpalamansGarage To bad you can't get a torque multiplier on there like they use on centerlock wheels. That would make it a lot easier. I think I remember them saying 390 pounds on them.
Didn't you say while filming it was .004 to .006. I'd have to go back over it. Either way it ain't going anywhere. 🤷
Are you doing the other side?
@@wernerdanler2742 Yep. I have the parts so I will be doing the other side too. Hopefully it will go more smoothly. lol
@@wernerdanler2742 that is an interesting idea about the torque multiplier. That tool is too big to fit in that area behind the wheel carrier. To use it on the slotted nut you would have to remove the entire trailing arm assembly. However if I modified the flange tool I made to add a central 3/4 or one inch socket drive, you could use the torque multiplier and you could probably do the job by hand without using the jack. Interesting.
Can you tell me if there is any difference between right and left side hub?
I do not know of a difference. The bearing kit works on left or right sides.
@@ImpalamansGarage I was wondering if there could be different thread on the left side. I bought new one but I'm not sure if it gonna fit. Sadly there is no catalogue number on the part :/
I have a few tubes of real Mercedes grease. Its green and very slippery made for those bearings. Dont remember where I got them at...
I've been using Valvoline wheel bearing grease made for disc brake wheels. Have never had an issue with it. It's red. I'm running it in the front bearings now. It would be interesting to see a chemical analysis between Mercedes branded lubricants and after market brands.
@@ImpalamansGarage Most of modern greases are not bad, especially synthetic greases
Where did you get that paper manual??
Go here. drive.google.com/drive/folders/10h73bJL6HUumYLxietbJrZXvG2zXFaRD?usp=drive_link