1984 Mercedes 300SD W126 - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement - Part 3 - Installation and Adjustment
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- / @impalamansgarage
In this third and final episode we install and adjust the rear wheel bearings on our W126 Mercedes. The wheel carrier housing was worn significantly which required an old school repair. Keep in mind that the Gen1 and Gen2 W126 have differences in this regard. Consult the Factory Service Manual.
Materials and Tools:
Loctite 660 Retaining Compound
www.henkel-adh...
Primer 7649 - N Type - for Loctite Retaining Compound
www.henkel-adh...
Fowler dial indicator: Part #: SER 725201991, Line: NAPA Service Tools
www.napaonline...
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Dear friend; Thank you very much for your advice. I have already disassembled it again and put another new spacer ring and I managed to bring the tightening between 0.04 and 0.05 thousandths, so I think it is a good job. I have done it very calmly. Thank you for everything and for your videos.
Pozdrav iz Srbije.Operacija je dosta komplikovana Vi ste to uradili za čistu desetki.Radim mehaniku godinama istu operaciju sam sam radio par meseci puta sa malo skromnim alatom.Sada upravo to radim na mom mercu. 126.Bgd.
Good job! Once again, thanks for taking the time to record all of your work.
Thank you. This is a challenging task.
Thanks for this. Might undertake this job myself soon since I found my '83 300D has a slight bend in the trailing arm, throwing off the camber/toe slightly! Nice to know it's doable with a bit of preparation
Disassembling the rear end is doable at home for sure. It will still be challenging however, so do the research and go slowly.
Awesome work!! I have an 87 300SDL and a 74 450SL and I am about to undertake the same task on the SL. Although I should check that carrier bearing first. Keep up the great work and enjoy those old Benz's. Matt
Thanks Matt. Hope you found it useful. This old Mercedes is a wonderful daily driver.
Mission complete. Good video, what's next?
Oh I have few ideas rattling around.
Nice job, If I ever hear bearing noise coming from my ‘87 W124, I’m heading to B’ham. LOL 😀😀
That is some great overcoming to get the result 👍
Great job. I'm glad you used timken.
thanks for sharing. so i could finish mine!
Good luck !
That was quite a job. I never tried replacing my rear bearings on my 123 when I had. I did the front. Boy did I screw that up!
The bearing hubs I've seen changed on other cars were a sealed unit that just slides onto the axle shaft. Then they are torqued to close to 300 ft pounds. You would have had fun doing that. Lol
I replaced the rear wheel bearings on my W210 Estate several years ago. I did not film it. The car sat on that lift for like a month until I figured out how to pull the hub. After that it was easy. lol
Nice job, seems I may want to recheck mine with the dial indicator...considering I only tightened mine by hand. I now see that's definetly not tight enough.
I was amazed at how much force the threads on the slot nut and flange could take.
👏👏👏👏
Mr. Impalaman, what do you actually do for a living? You made this highly complex repair looking like a piece of cake to the mechanically challenged viewer like myself!
Thanks for another great video series!
Your buddy Peter from Kansas
Hey Peter. You can email me if you want. My address is in the about section of the channel page.
Nice job.👍 Are you going to do the driver side? It might get jealous in a few months.
Yeah. I have the parts so I am planning to.
@@ImpalamansGarage
Hopefully it will be a easier job.
Hey man love your channel helped me out bigtime in the past 👍🏽… got a small problem with the bonnet (hood )..slightly raised on both sides any ideas they seem to work fine but there isn’t any adjustment.? 4-5 mm raised each side doesn’t sit flush with the wing.. or fender as you may say 😁
There should be a black rubber bump stop adjuster on each front corner. There is an adjustment there. They screw in and out. Maybe they are too high. Or are you saying that the hood is too high in the rear as well ?
The back part of the hood is fine..I wil check the bump stops but I’m guessing it’s maybe worn catches 🤷🏽♂️
@@keabot If you need it I can send the hood adjustment procedure from the service manual. Email me if you want. See the channel page about section for address.
@@ImpalamansGarage cheers my man 👍🏽
Great job how did you remove the axle without opening up the diff and removing the c-clip? Or did you do that off camera?
You only disengage the axle from the wheel carrier. No need to remove it entirely.
@@ImpalamansGarage ah ok thanks
Hello again friend. I have already tightened the nut and, thinking that the dial indicator is as accurate as yours, I have about 0.02 thousandths of travel. I don't reach the regulatory 0.03-0.06 that the book says. What does surprise me is that I see that you had to use a hydraulic lift to tighten and I simply got under the car (I can't raise it) and with an iron lever, with my arms I have passed (I think) a quarter turn tightening. Will it be correct to loosen that quarter turn to get the 0.03 thousandths or should I leave it like that?
The specification is .04 to .06 mm. (Imperial measurements would be precisely .001575 to .002362 inches.) If you surpass this specification and tighten the crush washer too tight, you CANNOT loosen it to obtain the correct reading. Unfortunately you must take it apart and install a new crush washer. Extreme care must be taken during the tightening process to not go beyond (tighter) than the specification calls.
Hi, friend. I am here in Spain with the same operation on my w126 560. Everything is correct but I must first buy a dial indicator. I see that most on Amazon are approximations in hundredths (0.01mm) and you talk about thousandths, as indicated in the w126 workshop book. I understand that I should look for one that indicates a precision of 0.001 mm on the needle marker. It is not like this? A greeting from Spain.
The end play specification for the rear wheel bearings is .04 mm to .06 mm. My measuring tool is graduated in imperial units (thousandths of an inch). I converted the Mercedes specification from metric to imperial so I must have end play of 1.6 to 2.4 thousandths of an inch. (.0016 to .0024). The tolerance is very tight on these cars.
@@ImpalamansGarage ohhh! Ahh, I understand. Of course, you have converted the manufacturer's measurements to your measurements in your country, logically. Everything is already understood. I'm about to buy the dial gauge. Thank you very much friend, Merry Christmas.
I don't understand what you did last. What did you measure with the measuring tool you attached to the piece?
When installed correctly the axle flange (the part the brake rotor and wheel is attached to) is allowed a very small amount of free play in and out. The allowed amount of free play is .04 to .06 mm. Put another way, this is the amount of allowed movement in a left or right direction that the axle flange is allowed to have in normal vehicle operation. This amount of free play is achieved by tightening the inner slotted nut to compress the crush sleeve inside the assembly. The dial gauge indicator does not measure in metric but in standard (imperial) inch units. The tolerance in standard inch units is 1.5 to 2.3 thousands of an inch.
Still no issues with the ALDA delete?
Nope. The car runs great and makes good power. In my opinion I would say that most of the high mileage OM617 engines have non-functional ALDA devices. Adjusting them makes little to no difference. They just don't work properly any longer. If they did, you would not have to floor your car to make it move. This will make an excellent up coming VLOG rant video. All just my opinion of course.
@@ImpalamansGarage I'm thinking about doing my 84 that way, I have the same car as you (same color and same color leather). Mine has 86,003 miles. I want a better throttle feel, something that feels more consistent.
@@johnbower5732 Well there is nothing wrong with removing it and then driving it for a while to see what this effect is. You can always reinstall it.
Wow,,, there's not supposed to be any clearance between the bearing cone and hub .if there is, u should replace the hub without any plans or modifications, that bearing will not last at all.
When u tighten the castle nut ,u should tighten it enough to remove all play on the hub,this takes a lot af effort, cause the collapsible spacer takes a lot of pressure to preload it properly, This is very important.Do Not to over- tighten it, but there must not be any freeplay on the hub.
@jimmyroos1677 All Mercedes service manual procedures were followed to the letter. Several thousand miles have been put on the car since this video with no issues.
@@jimmyroos1677 dimpling of the inside of the hub combined with the special hub surface repair adhesive worked well. It is a proper repair.
@ImpalamansGarage
Hallo, I must apologize. It's not my intention to knock your repair, I can see you're committed and try hard.
I've been a Mercedes-Benz mechanic now for almost 35 years, and I specialize in the repairs of Mercedes-Benz engines and automatic transmissions, cars from the 1960s to all the new crap as they come out of their warranty periods.
I qualified in 1993, and these cars were in abundance at the Mercedes-Benz dealership. So I've got a lot of experience, and when components aren't serviceable, specifically hard to do jobs, I frown apon "make a plan "repair, specifically cause I'm the guy that has to redo it, and I've seen almost everything.
@@jimmyroos1677 No worries. Appreciate you commenting and providing guidance for the other enthusiasts here.