DIY Ferrari Brakes Repair Saved £6000 With A Simple Hack
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Ferrari won't sell the cheap parts to fix a common brake problem on several of their high end models so I fixed it with some simple hacks and saved an absolute fortune doing it myself.
/ ratarossa
/ ratarossa
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Email: scott@ratarossa.com
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The more I watch these videos, the more confident I’m getting to pull the trigger on my first Ferrari 360 😊
they are great cars
@@Ratarossa need to find the right car now, like yourself I want a black Modena, and gated manual preferably.
Great work freeing the pistons up. One piece of feedback is never use chrome sockets like this - they can and do shatter under extreme circumstances, and with so much force behind them they can make some vicious shrapnel. Always use an impact socket instead, as they deform instead of shattering.
or a small piece of concrete, much better under compression
Learned a few tricks today, thanks to you!! Great video ! From Montreal,Canada where we deal with rusted/seized parts due to winters and salt on the roads....
Glad to help
Great work Scott, only wish I had been home when you came past my house on your test drive, I'll give you a wave if you come past again
Cheers buddy
the grease in the wheel bearing makes it move slower, if the grease has leaked or dried out it spines easier and u can feel roughness and or noise
do you think the bearing is on its way out ?
I had the same problem on a 599 a few years ago (same callipers I think). I’m not as skilled as you so was looking at a huge bill. Graypaul in Edinburgh were really helpful they had a company that their sister branch in Nottingham had used in the past that can refurb them. Graypaul sent the callipers down and they came back perfect at a cost of £1500 for the pair. Sorry I don’t know who they used but I’m sure Sytners in Nottingham would know.
very good to hear and know they will at least try and solve these common issues
Scott, excellent video and a great save.
The proper way to get that bolt out and save the hub is to get it set up in a vertical mill and find absolute dead centre of the bolt, they can then drill down and accurately the root diameter of the thread. This will leave just the coil of thread in there which can be picked out by hand. Then run a tap down it and away you go, I'll dig out the video of this being done. For what the hub is worth I wouldn't risk just running a drill down it.
Edit: found the link, watch this th-cam.com/video/kUOina5ULZo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Stu, when you popping by the shop ?
@@Ratarossa you bet, I need a new front brake pipe for my motorcycle 🙂. Seriously, I really must come by.
YES BBI YES
Sounds like you should try some dumpster diving at the local Ferrari dealers! 🙂
Ohhh yer good plan
your jobs sounds like my jobs
Always learning from these things
@@Ratarossa right
This is so interesting to watch. I would never have the patience and the hand skills to pull all this off. I really admire not only your money saving but also component saving approach, you fix every part you can, you don’t throw things out unless they are completely shot.
Thanks Ross, yes I cant stand the fact those calipers would normally be binned. I will totally reuse them
@@Ratarossa apparently you can use Alum (available at grocery store) dissolved in water to dissolve the steel bolt stuck in the aluminum part. Hotter you get it faster it dissolves.
@Ratarossa 😊
@Ratarossa 😊😊
@Ratarossa 😊😊😊😊😊
Heat from the sticking caliper could’ve cooked your bearing sooner
I've got a friend who's been a Ferrari Tech for many years now. He says the art of the technician is dying out sadly. They're replacing engines like it's going out of style instead of diagnosing and repair. I always enjoy your vids👍
Thanks buddy. Yes its a throw away society and such a shame. i love repairing the things that would normally get put in the bin
Interesting content. Keep up the good work on your channel. Regards, WR4K.
Thank you very much!
I had rusted brake pipes on my merc a few years ago and merc quoted me €700 to replace it. I bought a flair kit, some connectors and a roll of pipe at a cost of about €100 in total and did the repair myself. It was one of the easiest and most satisfying repairs I’ve ever done. Gotta love the DIY solutions. The flair kit has been passed around my mates since and saved them a fortune too.
Good man!
Well done 👏 it is as you say, rewarding 👍
Perseverance is a great trait! Great work & fascinating to see how it all went together. Glad it worked out for you just in time! Car must feel far more lively!
Looking forward to BBi again, missed it!
Yes! Thank you!
This video was vintage Ratarossa - showing again that us mere mortals can play and win against the spectre of having to use mega- expensive Ferrari specialists and parts to fix our beloved cars. Loved the mini-tutorial on how to bend brake pipes - would have taken ages to learn how to do that! Also loved the determination to repair the calipers not junk them and the ingenuity of the fixes using easily available tools - genius! Although I love the serial vids on all the projects, I love these ‘fix it yourself using these bits’ instalments the best. Keep ‘em coming!
Thanks buddy
I work on boats and you can imagine what sea water can do to seize bolts. I have used a tool called an easy out which involves drilling the seized bolt roughly in the centre. The easy out goes in the hole on a left hand thread which it cuts in the broken bolt. This is tightened and the bolt which is weaker due to the hole drilled in it hopefully comes away as you turn the easy out in. Good luck!
In my experience easy outs on very seized bolts like this one are crap. Usually ends up with the easy out shearing in the hole and doubling the problem. I'd drill the sheared bolt out in ever increasing drill sizes until close to the edge and carefully pick the broken bits out. Helicoil it after and jobs a good 'un! Any good engineering shop could sort it to be fair.
@@jamiemiller7752 yes
Wheel bearing sounds knackered in the new one, old one looks/sounds much better.
This is real automotive engineering, this is what I learned as a mechanic in the early 1980's, as we moved into the 1990's we became more "parts fitters" than actually repairing things. So many items which could be repaired were just thrown away.....I recently replaced the seals in my Ferrari 348 clutch slave cylinder 70 euros for the parts, whereas most people just replace the cylinder with an aftermarket part for about 700 euros......Why do that when you can fix it!
Cheers Kev good to hear you do the same
Induction heater around the broken bolt and hit with hammer around it and then hit it in dead center with a syl or something pointy and then use a "drill that drills the wrongway" ?
Good Lord, the new bearing is defenetly shot. It should be like your old one
I was waiting for one of those (I assume) non-impact sockets to shatter under the pressure of the pistons and to send shrapnel flying!
Don’t bother trying to drill out the broken bolt yourself, use some of the money you saved and take it to a machine shop (ideally one that offers EDM) who can get it, and the wheel bearing, out without damaging the hub. Get them to measure up the bearing size too so you can get a generic but good quality bearing instead of paying Ferrari prices!
Yes, EDM/Spark Erosion will do the job. Years ago I had a couple of broken studs removed from a cast iron manifold. One also had a broken stud remover in it. Easy when you have the right kit.
Great to see a fellow enthusiast repair his Ferrari rather than the usual tech in a dream workshop with all the tools and equiptment. We have 2 Ferraris, - Dino 308GT4 and a 456 and do all repairs and maintenance ourselves within our double garage so no hoist etc. It can be done quite easily but you do need some mechanical aptitude I guess and a can do attitude. Reality is we couldn`t afford to own these cars if we couldn`t do this and would miss out on a lot of the fun of owning them. Love the videos.
Love the 308GT 4
They`re a nicer driver than the 308 GTB plus although maybe the GTB has a slight looks advantage the GT4 by itself is a good looking car. I`m over 6 feet tall and also far more comforable than cramped GTB.@@PaulBCISSP
Sadly soon all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-(
In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025
on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.!!!! (BABBVEN)
Could you find somewhere that could spark erode that snapped bolt?
I’m a big user of copper slip on threads, particularly in suspension parts, makes life a whole lot easier when it comes to disassembly next time. All those broken parts are far less likely to happen when using it!
Is "copper slip" the same as or similar to "anti-seize"?
@@mitsuturbo yes cooper slip is the name us oldies use but it's the same stuff
@@steveyates1098 the newer stuff on the market is garbage. I found some proper old copper slip at an auto jumble it’s just as good as I remember.
@@mark4lev Ceramic grease is the thing to move to
@@philtowle4683 never tried it. A lot of people think copper grease is useless because the modern stuff is garbage, same as a lot of cheapened, made to a price formulations.
Best car based video I’ve seen in a long time. Love the work you do on these cars. Show us more 👏
Thanks buddy
First call would have been to my EDM tech, $150 and 1 day turnaround……time for you to make a new friend….not to mention it’s a super cool process.
The rear caliper on many motorbikes end up with seized pistons due to them rarely being used as most riders just used the front brakes. Why? Look that up on you tube. ??? There are guys out there that specialize in this problem. I fill with WD 40 and use compressed air to do the trick. I cannot condone you out there to use this method as it borders being dangerous, but its never failed. If there is a will there is a way. Just be careful.
All came more than right in the end! One of the most satisfying vids ever - the deadline added a touch of jeopardy, and the brake fabrication was a good to learn from. We had genuine drama, a massive saving, and a lesson in what can be done on the drive: vintage Ratarossa! Top notch, mate.
Thank you my friend
You could get the bolt out by taking it to an EDM (electronic discharge machine) machinist they will be able to remove it, helicoil the thread as required.
The bold is bottomed, the hole is not drilled deep enough, so you need to get the pressure of the bottom. This is a common tooling fault during manufacturing. The best solution, drilling a sideways hole where the tip of the bold would end up. Changes of structural damage are very high.
Odd. Normally it's the other way around. You don't want it to just free move. That's usually a sign of the bearing going out.
Hi Rat bolt the calliper back on the hub then get a sleeve machined to fit in the bolt hole of the calliper then use a drill in the sleeve to drill a hole in the bolt .My friend Christian did this on a combine harvester check out this link.th-cam.com/video/T-4rZ4FYQTE/w-d-xo.html Also dont forget calliper bolts have thread lock on them so penetrating oil will help NOT WD40.
Any machine shop should be able to get that broken bolt out and the threads repaired. The specialist automotive machine shops would be the place to start.
Looks like steel pistons in aluminum caliper to me. Is Ferrari unaware of the interaction we call galvanic corrosion?
Lots of way to at least attempt to get a bolt out, soak in penetrative fluid, now it's off you stand a chance of getting it in, tap the edges with a centre punch, failing that heat it up and repeat
would of been easier to sent them off to big red and it would of been back within a few days fully stripped cleaned and sent back.
Bolt broken in hub any good machine shop should be able to drill out the bolt with out destroying the threads and then chase/cleanup the threads
Try spark erosion for removing the broken stud should be somewhere local to you
Forget Ferrari Just contact brembo about the calliper, they will sell the parts.
Its so wierd the way the world works, both u n another you tuber are both working on the brake lines for their ferrari's during the same week
Nicely done. I think I'd add some anti-seize to the threads on those bolts so they will come out later. I've seen that before with dissimilar materials seizing together.
Great idea
I had Brembos on a Porsche 944 Turbo S. Same problem with the caliper bolts. Antiseize solved the problem totally.
Its called galvanic corrosion, and its a real pain in the arse to deal with, I've been there and its no fun, especially with 30mm + bolts.
Crafting a brake pipe that looks as though it was there from factory is very satisfying, the broken bolt would come out with a nut welded on with a mig welder possibly, great video 👍🏻👍🏻
Yes I was really happy with the result of the brake pipe, it was also the first time ive ever done that.
local machine shop could get the bolt out and chase the threads shouldnt even cost to much,ir if you have a steady hand punch then drill thru the center of the bolt and try an easy out
That's a basic brake pipe that any mechanic can make, you don't need a ferrari part for that
With the brakes binding as bad as they were was probably what dried the grease in the wheel bearing.
Scott you give me the fear working on your car in flip flops
Only one comment concerning the allen wrenches, I would suggest getting the socket Allen setup where you use your ratchet, much easier than the 90 degree Allen wrench... But Good job, I could tell you about the fun on doing the same on my C5 allroad conversion to BBK Brembos.. Cheers..
Good tip!
Congratulations! Its not an easy job, hats off to all the do it your selfers!
Drilling the bolt out by increasing the size of the drill is a good idea but you have to be really careful to keep the drill square and on centre. Ideally you would want to find a local machine shop so they can bolt it onto a milling machine or similar. Another option is a bit more specialised and that’s with a spark eroding machine although this is more time consuming and will cost more money
Thanks for the info
Looked like there would be plenty of space for a timesert insert, the only tricky part is following the above and keeping the drill straight. At minimum you need a pillar drill and drilling vice, better as he says with milling machine and clamped down.
I have snapped off bolts spark eroded out quite often , not that expensive
@@MrAmorti nonsense. It’s easy to drill out by hand.
we use spark erosion to remove snapped bolts or snapped taps when drilling is not a option
Any bolts like that that feel very tight always try and put some heat on the part the bolt is going in to, in your case the upright. You can also do the same thing with the gland nuts on the brake pipes, it works a treat.
Try Barum Engines for the bolt removal
A machinist would make those pistons easily,
working with multiple hundreds of psi that broke g clamps, on a glass table, i admire that trait :)
LOL ...i was most likely wearing flip flops under that glass table also
steel bolt into aluminum hub right? the metals should expand at different rates so I'd probably try to drill a hole in the bolt and use an ez out or something but before doing that I would really heat the hub up with a blowtorch or something. alternatively, just drill that bolt out on a drill press maybe?
Iff you look back at your first video when you took the caliper off you pushed it to the back that's why it snapped the pipe just something to watch out for and a lesson learned but the new pipe looks spot on and great to see your not scared to work on your own car even iff it is a ferrari
I don't know what to do I clicked on it but then but think I should off replied straight away because now it's not there to reply
I’m new to the channel but appreciate the samcrac-style approach! It’s exciting to see as a viewer the exact methods you use to get to get the parts you need to do what you need to do. How did you end up getting the caliper pistons? And what would you end up doing if you needed to swap pads and rotors out?
If you don’t mind, I couldn’t help but notice the steering wheel is a bit worse for wear. A light mix of APC and water, or a degreaser, paired with a brush should be a decent way to clean it up and should be basically free to you. I get the ratty look is part of what makes it unique but i don’t think a quick once over with a brush and cloth would do any harm!
Spark erode the old bolt out and then retap. Stud extractors might work but may also break as well
Good advice. This is the way to go.
Braided hoses ? Instead ... P s . Those's replacement hubs seems it needed the bearings regreasing ?
i think it had just sat around for ages and that was the first time i span it
Hill Engineering sell the calliper pistons and they work well (I changed all my pistons on my own 430). the other thing you should do is blow out the brake lines before you put in the flares, as the deburring process can leave tiny bits of swarf inside the pipes .That stuck bolt ??? Spark erosion is the best option and there must be loads of local shops near you that can do that job. Dont try drilling it out as by the time you have drilled a big hole to put a stud extractor into the bolt will be weak and probably split ........ and this can split the calliper.
Barum engineering or any local engine re manufacturing company should be able to drill that broken bolt out and install a heli coil
cheers I will check them out
Great series of videos. Just did my own DIY brakes, calipers on a 987 Boxster. Ran into the same seized caliper bolt which broke. Took over 8 hours total to drill out, retap etc. Made the awful mistake of trying to use a bolt extractor to remove the bolt. I should have drilled it out to begin with, but ended up with a broken bolt extractor. Drilled around it and eventually got it done. Good experience but not the most fun. But glad it’s done and really learned a lot (had never done brakes before).
Never use them extractors, nightmare 😫
If you see a engineering company they could spark erode that snapped bolt out easy enough
Nobody can beat this guy , number 1 DIYer in the world.
Just a quick bit of advise when putting components back together all threads need to have a dab of anti seize grease especially
when steel bolts are going into alloy as the two metals start to oxidise together in a very short time the reason you had that
calliper bolt snap it more than likely free up if a large nut like a 10mm with a 17mm nut is mig welded through the center of the nut
and built up to form it into a bolt, the heat generated should break the porosity between the steel and alloy use a six point socket
on the nut to prevent rounding off the Nut, and take it slowly to prevent breaking the weld, There should be someone down at your
friends garage where you have your BBi that can handle that for you easily. Keep up the good work and i'm especially interested on
how you get on with the BBi as I used to work on a few of them in the past.
Thank you for showing a REAL repair, warts and all, no fluff.
Drill and tap a lefthand smaller thread maybe
That new hub bearing sounds worse that the old one - like a bearing on its last legs. Old one would probably spin for a fair while with a wheel on it to give some momentum.
As to Brembo brakes. For motorcycles they won’t sell the seals. Story goes that in the 80s someone rebuilt their calipers and made a mess of the job and crashed. Then sued Brembo for selling them the bits to make a mess with and Brembo lost in court. So they stopped selling seals.
That brake pipe straightener looks useful.
remove the bearing ... take it to a bearing store.. have them match one up for you,, save a few 100's for you
good point, just as a reminder: if a bearing spins more freely, usually it means the lubricant is no longer effective and tolerances between the bearing race and spheres are a little loose. on the other hand, if you feel any grind, bumps or noise while rotating, the bearing is a goner....
I glad this job didn't brake your spirit.
LOL
I love your "worktable" !?
Great break job...just changed the calipers on my car too....makes a hell of a difference! Keep up the great work!
You should make more brake lines just like that. Then Ferrari would not have any on backorder.
LOL
@@Ratarossa You should find a Pontiac GTO (1970) and stuff a Ferrari motor in it. John DeLorean was a fan of the Italian sports cars. You would tick off all of us Pontiac people, but it would be hilarious.
Be careful assuming that a loose bearing is better than a tight one, if adjusted correctly a new bearing shouldn't spin freely after removing turning force, but should turn freely and smoothly by hand.
Thanks Paul, good tip
I agree, the old bearing inspires a little more confidence than the replacement.
Driveway mechanics with flip fops, top quality Scott.
nothing but the best buddy
I have 85k miles on my brembos. No seizing yet. I have a 2013 Cadillac CTS-V. Hopefully one of these days I’ll add an F430!
To get the bolt out you could probably try an engineering work shop who has a spark erosion machine and if that cant do it ,nothing can, most precision plastic injection tool and die makers use them.
Spark erosion is really for removing hard things like broken taps etc, I'd machine it out oversize to be able to tap it out to take a Keen Sert 😊
A re trimmed steering wheel would come in hand.
I have one being retrimmed right now
TIG THE BOLT to build the height drop a washer over it and tig then a nut or socket to the washer them with the heat transfer it should unscrew but the threads may shit themselves
wow thats a great idea !!
Did you enjoy your daily dose
Rebuilding the caliper seems just like rebuilding an engine. Bore\hone the cylinders. Possibly over-sized pistons
ings (gasket on the brakes). Typical machine shop stuff - right? I see a business here! Also, a machine shop will make quick work drilling out that ceased and broken bolt. You are going to be a pro with brake lines after redoing all on the BBi. Keep those videos coming. Thanks!!!
In the old days, seventies, when I seemed to either work or be under cars or bikes used to just hire swaging tools for brake lines etc, have ever since used PBC on anything that might seize due to heat, environmental or dissimilar metals which are a pet hate. As an Electrician Offshore did a lot of SS Instrument Pipework so became pretty competent with hand benders etc, by the time You complete a whole car, You'll probably be doing it by eye.
Re: sheared thread, it's fraught, if You have access to a pedestal drill with enough height and the capacity to clamp the workpiece, then drill, use heat and nasty chemicals, the more warnings the better, have used Caustic Soda in similar situation, an exhaust manifold to downpipe stud, followed by removers. Or, I've only seen done once, drill out virtually all the male material and use a Frett saw for 6 or 8 cuts and a scribe as a chisel to take out the thread. Have Fun!
😁👍❤️🏴!
Hi mate, get your hub to a machine shop shouldn’t cost much. I’m up it Glasgow or I will do it. Brilliant content👍
cheers Scott thats the idea
Try blow torch on the hub bolt stub, then spray with transmision oil to lube the threading. There are kits to remove broken bolts...
I'm not sure how Ferrari can call their products high quality... That brake line issue happens just as much on Nissan Micras.... why don't Ferrari use non rusting materials, and properly justify their stupid prices....
"Hey guys, ChrisFi.. i mean.. Ratarossa here."
Amazing work there. Crazy how much it is possible to save by simple common handtools and a bit of DIY mentaliy.
Machinist could get the broken bolt out. We could do it at our shop if you're in the Tampa FL area visiting Samcracc
Next time put a heavy towel over that piston/socket area on that caliper or risk lossing your teeth if one was to slip out with that pressure ...there's a guy on YT with a channel all about pulling those broken bolts out of everything I don't remember the name but I'm sure you have seen it by now or can find it easily..
Gerard Pink removed a seized bolt from Tavarish's Mclaren engine block , tap him up to find out his technique.
Ill ask him for sure
Another TH-camr was recently making brake lines and got a lot of flack in the comments for doing it wrong, but your approach seems very good: cutting the pipe with a proper tool so as not to get metal dust in the lines, and having strong-looking end flanges able withstand the fluid pressure.
I know this was a year ago, but I remember seeing a Wheeler Dealer episode where they had some Porsche Cayenne callipers rebuilt by a specialty shop. It was quite inexpensive as I recall to have them completely rebuilt like new. Might be worth trying to contact them for future use.
You need to find an engineering shop that has a Spark Eroder machine. They are designed to remove snapped off bolts cleanly from the thread. Uses a high voltage spark to erode the bolt material, just like a powerful spark plug constantly sparking against it. Fascinating process, not so common anymore as we throw things way rather than repairing, but a decent engineering workshop should still have these machines.
Good thing you replaced the brake line -- if that broke off so easily it was probably dodgy. That's a major safety risk.
what kind of brake fluid do they use that can cause that kind of damage?
are other brands of vehicles that use carbon ceramic brakes also have the same issues? Porsche?
BTW: the amount of wear on those low mileage components is horrendous. i would expect more from a top notch manufacturer. Ive seen hundreds of Japanese cars with 300K on the odometer with less wear than that....... it doesn't matter how bad-ass the toy is, if it's broken all the time or requires loads of maintenance more than it's peers, it's still a piece of sheet.
I used to be a machine setter at a giant factory making brake pipes and they are called flairs not flanges.not being pedantic just thought it might help when talking about expensive car parts .very interesting work great to see the grease fix !
Great point!
Flares 😁 you can buy Brembo parts from Zeckhausen in the USA. they used to sell an own brand range of calipers that were identical to Brembo, but it was a few years when I bought stuff from them. I used to sell rebuilt calipers on an exchange basis and found them very easy to do.
Get this on motorcycles all the time. If ever I get a stuck bolt where it's steel in to ally I stop work immediately and get the heat on it. Brake calipers and brake discs are a favourite for seizing in place, they either round off or snap and then it's a major headache. The ally expands more with heat than the steel and it usually does the trick.
To remove the old bolt , find someone or a company that does Spark erosion... its like the opposite of welding.... god luck :} Mark...
Nice job, hope all the Ferrari mechanic have your knowledge how to refurbished parts. You have the patient trouble shoot the problem down to the roots. The art of car repair is dying out. All they know just replace it (or destroy more?). The other youtuber also know the car well is M539 restoration. Cheer to the auto masters, keep on the next good work on your BBi.
To get the broken bolt - get it spark eroded out by an engineering local tool shop. I’ve had it done, it costs about £50. Although if you know someone who works there - it will be cheaper!