Great video, thanks. I'm an amateur photographer and I don't do panoramas a lot but when I do, I often get confronted with high contrast scenes. Being In Arizona the bright skies often pose a problem with deep shadows on mountains sides, rocks, etc. So generally I use 5-shot bracketing with my pano shots and I often get good results. I do not use any filters and I set everything to manual.
I was one of probably many that requested this and very happy you made this video. I do not have a wide angle lens but I do have a 70-300 telephoto. So in the video you said I would have to use a rail and adjust The Nodal Point I take it. I wish to thank you for doing this and I follow your channel all the time no bull just great information thanks again I'm going to try this. Stuart
Glad it was helpful Stu! Yes I believe it was your suggestion that made us do the video. Keep them coming. Try your lens first before you go out a buy a nodal slide, I really don't think you will need it. As long as you are using a ball head and level both your tripod and camera, you should be fine.
A wonderful location, Tom. Perfect for pano work with the river in front. A smile on my face about the Nodal Point remark, I get these same questions over and over again when shooting pano's and I work just like you do in the field. When I need only three images I use the TS-E lenses. Take care!
Henk, yes I don't understand why some photographers make such a big issue out of using the exact nodal point when it's not necessary. I try to maintain my methods to keep it simple.
Just found this channel recently and subscribed with the bell right away. I plan to watch previous videos when time allows. I was wondering if more info ie: lens, ISO etc could be added to the final image. It does help relate to how you compose each situation.
Welcome aboard! Enjoy the back catalog of videos and whenever its important to state the shutterspeed, f/stop and ISO, I'll put the details in or state them in the video.
Thanks for the nice video Just a quick question Will it not be better to pick a single picture, do adjustments and sink all pictures before stitching. I think it will minimise the chances of rejection of the panorama
Yes, I've have this question on my workshops all the time. I put it to the test and it rarely makes any difference whether you work up the images first then stitch or stitch first. Thanks for watching.
I’m kind of new to Photography, I’ve had a camera for years and never really done anything with it. Watching your videos are really getting me fired up. What does let me down is the editing side of things. I have Adobe Elements as an editing programme. This does seem to restrict what I can do. Would you recommend upgrading to lightroom?
Welcome to the channel Ian, glad the videos are inspiring you to get out there with your camera. I would recommend upgrading to Lightroom as it is great for organising you images, processing RAW files and so much more. It's a very powerful program which I believe you can still buy the standalone Lightroom 6 or do the monthly subscription which also gives you Photoshop and Bridge. It might be best to do a free trial to see how you get on with it first. Good luck and keep watching!
Great video, thanks a lot for sharing! Question: Would this also work using an ultra wide angle lens? Or would the distortion of a UW lens make it harder for the software to successfully stitch the images together?
These days I actually find myself capturing panoramas hand held by using the electronic level control in the camera (Nikon Z50). I agree that it is generally best to frame vertically so that I a lot more image available before cropping
Hi Tom, where do you park to get to this location? Blyford Lane would be a long walk, but I do have friends at the old Blyth View development, so can I walk down from there? Regards, from a local.
Thx for the video. On the topic of batteries; I bought my D850 ealrier this year and I'm shocked at the seemingly poor performance of the batteries. I previously owned a D750 and the battery would last for several shoots. However, I do shoot differently now by using the Live View which understandably adds more drain to the battery. I see that you hardly use the Live View and therefore would be interested to understand how long your batteries last? I have turned off Wifi, deleted it from Snap Bridge, and has Airplane set to on. After a 4 hour wander through woodland shooting aanything from 100 to 400 shots (panos, bracketing etc) using Live View (focussing is spot on compare to eyepiece auto focus) I notice that the charge left is always less than 50% sometimes only 10% or so left. I therefore alwways carry a spare! Any advice would be helpful. Thank you
You're doing the right thing by turning off the features that use battery life such as wifi, bluetooth, touchscreen. If you do tend to use Live View that will significantly drain you battery. I found that Snap Bridge is absolutely rubbish (either difficult to connect or never connects) so will never use it. Would be useful to have it work properly. The older your batteries are the quicker they will use a charge. I'm still using the same batteries that I had with my D800 and D810 and noticed the charge doesn't last as long as when they were new. After so many charge cycles they do tend to have a shorter life. I think it's time to re-new my batteries.
I have a nodal slide and rarely use it. You need to save the settings for each lens. With zooms, for each focal length you use, too. I have a file on my iPod with the settings for the lenses I use for landscape photography. All the way from 17-40mm to 100-400mm lens. I just find getting out the nodal slide, looking up the settings, and setting the slide to the setting for the lens to not be worth the effort. It just not make enough of a difference in my panoramas, when I compare using my Acratech panoramic head and Acratech leveling base with and without the nodal slide.
Nice job! Excellent video!! Excellent pano!!
The best panoramic video I have seen and the dead battery tip Wow THANKS Tom.
My pleasure Barry
I was happy that he returned to making the videos, his compositions are fantastic.
Glad you like them!
Beautiful photographs, thanks for sharing your tutorial and your photography skills.
Fantastic video Tom.
Glad you enjoyed it
So good to have you providing these videos from the field - thx Tom!
Glad you like them Hank!
These are my favourite videos of yours Tom....in the field!
Glad you like them, more to come.
Thanks. Very Helpful.
Very informative thanks a lot ❤️
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks. I'm an amateur photographer and I don't do panoramas a lot but when I do, I often get confronted with high contrast scenes. Being In Arizona the bright skies often pose a problem with deep shadows on mountains sides, rocks, etc. So generally I use 5-shot bracketing with my pano shots and I often get good results. I do not use any filters and I set everything to manual.
I have a lot of admiration for your work Tom, it inspires me to go out and shoot more each day, congratulations!
Thanks Nelson, nice of you to say.
Very helpful information on stitching in lightroom, awesome result and appreciate you sharing your knowledge, thank you Tom.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I was one of probably many that requested this and very happy you made this video. I do not have a wide angle lens but I do have a 70-300 telephoto. So in the video you said I would have to use a rail and adjust The Nodal Point I take it. I wish to thank you for doing this and I follow your channel all the time no bull just great information thanks again I'm going to try this. Stuart
Glad it was helpful Stu! Yes I believe it was your suggestion that made us do the video. Keep them coming. Try your lens first before you go out a buy a nodal slide, I really don't think you will need it. As long as you are using a ball head and level both your tripod and camera, you should be fine.
@@TomMackieLandscapes When do you think is it necessary to compose two levels to get a pamorama photograph love your work thanks again Stuart
Hello Tom, really enjoyed this vlog, you are a great educator. Fabulous tips & tricks. Thank you for sharing your skills & passion...
Glad it was helpful Allan!
I will apply this knowledge in my next capture. Thank you very much !
You are welcome!
A wonderful location, Tom. Perfect for pano work with the river in front. A smile on my face about the Nodal Point remark, I get these same questions over and over again when shooting pano's and I work just like you do in the field. When I need only three images I use the TS-E lenses. Take care!
Henk, yes I don't understand why some photographers make such a big issue out of using the exact nodal point when it's not necessary. I try to maintain my methods to keep it simple.
Very informative, Tom.
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful! Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful.
Just found this channel recently and subscribed with the bell right away. I plan to watch previous videos when time allows. I was wondering if more info ie: lens, ISO etc could be added to the final image. It does help relate to how you compose each situation.
Welcome aboard! Enjoy the back catalog of videos and whenever its important to state the shutterspeed, f/stop and ISO, I'll put the details in or state them in the video.
I agree with you regarding a nodal rail. I never use mine either.
Where did you buy that levelling spirit that you mount on your camera flash shoe?
Thanks for the nice video
Just a quick question
Will it not be better to pick a single picture, do adjustments and sink all pictures before stitching. I think it will minimise the chances of rejection of the panorama
Yes, I've have this question on my workshops all the time. I put it to the test and it rarely makes any difference whether you work up the images first then stitch or stitch first. Thanks for watching.
Thank Tom, I love panos but mine seem to come out quite narrow so this was very helpful 😁
Glad it was helpful!
Very good, and pedagogical. Which tripod an head do you use? Take care. Göran from Latvia
I use Gitzo Series 3 tripod and ball head.
I’m kind of new to Photography, I’ve had a camera for years and never really done anything with it. Watching your videos are really getting me fired up. What does let me down is the editing side of things. I have Adobe Elements as an editing programme. This does seem to restrict what I can do. Would you recommend upgrading to lightroom?
Welcome to the channel Ian, glad the videos are inspiring you to get out there with your camera. I would recommend upgrading to Lightroom as it is great for organising you images, processing RAW files and so much more. It's a very powerful program which I believe you can still buy the standalone Lightroom 6 or do the monthly subscription which also gives you Photoshop and Bridge. It might be best to do a free trial to see how you get on with it first. Good luck and keep watching!
Great video, thanks a lot for sharing! Question: Would this also work using an ultra wide angle lens? Or would the distortion of a UW lens make it harder for the software to successfully stitch the images together?
It should work, but you will have to shoot more overlapped images to account for distortion so it will stitch. Thanks for watching.
These days I actually find myself capturing panoramas hand held by using the electronic level control in the camera (Nikon Z50). I agree that it is generally best to frame vertically so that I a lot more image available before cropping
Yes Jennifer, I sometimes shoot panos hand-held on the rare occasion I don't have a tripod with me and it works just fine. No nodal point necessary.
Thanks again Tom for another great tutorial! The wide angle lens that you were using-Is it the Nikon 16-35?
It was the 24-70mm @ 24mm. Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Tom, where do you park to get to this location? Blyford Lane would be a long walk, but I do have friends at the old Blyth View development, so can I walk down from there? Regards, from a local.
Hi Jon, just over the bridge, if you drive too fast you will miss it.
I've found that if you have a lot of foreground then you need to set the nodal point otherwise it's not necessary
Thx for the video. On the topic of batteries; I bought my D850 ealrier this year and I'm shocked at the seemingly poor performance of the batteries. I previously owned a D750 and the battery would last for several shoots. However, I do shoot differently now by using the Live View which understandably adds more drain to the battery. I see that you hardly use the Live View and therefore would be interested to understand how long your batteries last?
I have turned off Wifi, deleted it from Snap Bridge, and has Airplane set to on. After a 4 hour wander through woodland shooting aanything from 100 to 400 shots (panos, bracketing etc) using Live View (focussing is spot on compare to eyepiece auto focus) I notice that the charge left is always less than 50% sometimes only 10% or so left. I therefore alwways carry a spare!
Any advice would be helpful. Thank you
You're doing the right thing by turning off the features that use battery life such as wifi, bluetooth, touchscreen. If you do tend to use Live View that will significantly drain you battery. I found that Snap Bridge is absolutely rubbish (either difficult to connect or never connects) so will never use it. Would be useful to have it work properly. The older your batteries are the quicker they will use a charge. I'm still using the same batteries that I had with my D800 and D810 and noticed the charge doesn't last as long as when they were new. After so many charge cycles they do tend to have a shorter life. I think it's time to re-new my batteries.
why don't you use the 3 second mirror lock up shutter delay to avoid mirror shake? You can also use self timer to avoid hand shake.
Good point Jonathan, but the shutter speed I was using didn't warrant it and for the quickness for the video.
super :)
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a nodal slide and rarely use it. You need to save the settings for each lens. With zooms, for each focal length you use, too. I have a file on my iPod with the settings for the lenses I use for landscape photography. All the way from 17-40mm to 100-400mm lens. I just find getting out the nodal slide, looking up the settings, and setting the slide to the setting for the lens to not be worth the effort. It just not make enough of a difference in my panoramas, when I compare using my Acratech panoramic head and Acratech leveling base with and without the nodal slide.
The Acratech is perfect for doing stitch panos. I always think why make something more difficult than it needs to be. Thanks for watching.