So far, so good! I installed this fan yesterday. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I've been watching a continuous radon monitor in my house for about a week, and the levels have been running between 4.5 and 7.9 pCi/L. Shortly after I installed this fan, the radon level started dropping, and in less than 24 hours since I installed it, the level is now 1.9. My basement is approximately 2,000 square feet. Total home square footage above basement is approximately 4,000 square feet. The noise level so far is very quiet. Mine is installed indoors, so I had to purchase a cord and connector. If I have any problems later, I'll update my review. But for now, I'm very pleased with it.Update after 48 hours: Using a constant monitor, my radon is now fluctuating between 0.38 and 0.45 pCi/L. I've moved the monitor to my basement and am getting a constant 0.43 reading. After 24 hours, and when I know the weather will be safe, I'll place the monitor outside for about 12 hours. I'm thinking that the 0.38 to 0.45 may be the outside "ambient" radon level. I'm using this monitor (purchased from Amazon): Corentium Home Radon Detector by Airthings 223
I had 5 fans all venting into the attic when we moved into our house built that was built in '79. I was not going to put 5 extra holes in my house so I found a whole house fan by Aldes. It has a central fan that mounts in the attic and registers with dampers in each bathroom/laundry area. Ran insulated flex duct to the main housing with the fan in the attic. When you hit the switch in the bathroom, it opens the damper, a read switch on the damper kicks on the fan in the attic. Almost completely silent and moves a ton of air. Most contractors I have shown it to have never seen anything like it.
Retired home inspector here, buyer beware. Ducting and venting placement, and a reliable fan that is cheap, easy to replace or repair is all home owners need. As far as noise, get good insulation, but don't get a fan to do that job or it will be major trouble some years later. The last two fans are only if you have pro maintenance such as common areas in condos or coops. The central blower option is fine, except the motor is usually in a place hard to get to unless you design easy access from blue prints. In homes with multiple fans and ducting, if one fails, you have the others, with central, if it fails, all goes, and often hard to replace. The last option is a DC blower fan with digital controls, a nightmare to repair, expensive to buy and install, but quiet and energy efficient. In a lightning storm, the whole thing can lock up, reset, never shut off or turn on, and requires a power down, if it didn't get damaged. Sometimes, it will just fail, or a module will fail, and hard to diagnose, is this worth quiet and energy savings? Only if you run the fan 24/7 which no one does except in buildings, or maybe mansions with full time maintenance; for us, you're better off just getting a cheap Broan 688 type and a timer, for $20 each, and it will last decades, I use both, installed in 1978 and still going. IR or motion sensors? Humidity sensors? scheduled timers? I've not seen any make it past 10 years, way after warranty, and before it it may just not sense right. Unless you are disabled or in a retirement home with maintenance to adjust or repair these as needed, don't bother. Just run a timer for 2x the length you ever need, use 30 instead of 15min or a full hour if unsure. In winter time, when air is dry, the bathroom will dry up quickly and fan time may be nothing, to avoid heat loss to the vent just open the door, the fan is more helpful in summer or year round to vent odors and take the heat loss.
Where I am, the air is not dry in winter and that is the main time I worry about getting the moisture sufficiently out. A noisy rattly vent is obnoxious during what should be a relaxing bath. Your preferences are preferences, not the one true Answer.
I have yet to see a video of someone retrofitting a fan into a bathroom with no fan or ceiling fixture, only an outlet next to a sink that's on the first floor of a 2 story house and venting it to the side of the house. THAT'S the video I want to see.
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare.*
When my house was flipped (so would not have bought had I known at the time it had been flipped because literally EVERYTHING was done improperly with wrong hardware, incorrect wiring and major corners cut) they put in the bathroom exhaust fan and dumped blow-in insulation right over the top of it (and its exposed electrical hookup!) having it blow right into a pile of insulation. I finally got a vent in the roof and have it ducted to it, but what a nightmare.
Great Video, this and a Tom Silva video on why not to use a soffit vent saved me from a dumb mistake. It makes sense once you think about it. I use Panasonic fans, seems the most quiet and most CFM with a 6 incg duct.
I started watching TOH with its first episode in 1979. Nothing in this video shows how to replace the fan or really how to choose the fan. Once again the show is just promoting the newest gadgets. Yes, I know this is from Ask TOH. Same thing
What about flex duct decreasing airflow in duct? Also I don’t think you’re supposed to vent through the wall but I’m forgetting the reason... can you not add a damper?
It may be a good idea to let people know that you can run these fans to more than 1 bathroom and these fans can be used for kitchens also , very easy to install , i am talking about the fan that you can mount anywhere and just cut a small round hole in ceiling for the inlet, these are the best kind because the regular fans that have vent attached to the fan get gummed up with dust and moister causing them to go bad in a year or so.
I like your idea. I have two bathrooms next to each other and one fan for both makes sense. But I am having trouble finding fand, at least at Lowes. Do you have a brand, a google search term suggestion?
@@johnpareizs3278 Inline Duct Fan 4 Inch Duct Fan with Remote Control Unit Variable Speed Controller 50W 280 CFM Ventilation Exhaust Blower Fans Efficient Quiet ***** LOOK FOR SOMETHING LIKE THISyou must mount this before the Y-connector closer to the exit outside.
@@johnpareizs3278 also be sure to use timers so people do not leave the fan too long, fan will pull out heating and cooling from the house and push it outside, i use a motion detector in one bathroom.
Thanks! I found a company called fan tech with exactly what you suggested. I also have another large bathroom where two vents would be good. Wish I did thus a few months ago. Attics in the south are hot this time of year
One of the biggest things this video neglected to mention was how powerful of a fan you need for the size of the bathroom you're trying to vent. Anywhere from 50 cfm up 150 cfm or more.
Building code in most municipalities only require a 50 cfm bath fan. Unfortunately, that's what most builders installed because of the cost. That's barely enough to vent a half bath. The average U. S. bath is 5 feet wide by 8 to 9 feet long. 40 to 45 square feet. That's only 40 to 45 cubic feet of just the first foot down from the ceiling. The more appropriate fan would be one that moves 70 to 110 cubic feet per minute. Luckily, a better fan is also quieter. 2.5 sones down to 1.5 sones. The lower the better. Also, a timer should be a must.15 to 30 minutes will help remove a good portion of the moisture after a shower.
@Mircea The bathroom door bottom should be at least 3/4" to 1" from the floor to allow proper venting. Usually, that is all that is required to get proper air flow. Leaving a window open or keeping the bathroom door open is counterproductive while the fan is in operation. You can open either after the fan has run it's cycle of 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the room's moisture content after a shower. In addition, when doing a remodel or newer construction like an addition, I usually set the fan about a foot back from the front edge of the shower or tub then centered from each side. If you use a lighted fan, you'll also get more light into the shower area this way. Older construction had the fan over the toilet.
@Mircea A door vent is a good alternative but not very attractive. If privacy is a concern, keep the door bottom at 3/4" from the floor. You could also have a louvered door installed but unfortunately they allow more noise coming in or going out.
I have an inline fan that splits to control two bathrooms. There is a receptacle that is controlled from a switch that it is plugged into in he attic. The receptacle is controlled by two 3-way switches, each in a bathroom. The switches are illuminated, so you know when the fan is off.
#ThisOldHouse, Heath Eastman, How about doing another video that explains all the tech specs and how they are installed and used? My house (4 bedroom ranch) has a small bathroom and no exhaust fan. House was built in 1973. The tub/shower is next to the outside wall. I like the last one, the constant power one. Does that mean that it runs all the time, at low speed, until the switch/timer/moisture detector is turned on?
I switched out the exhaust fan in my small bathroom after I bought the house thinking a stronger fan will do a better job. NOPE. My bathroom still collects water droplets on ceiling and now I see mold. How do I fix this?
But my current bathroom fans go nowhere: they don’t vent anywhere; they are just a metal box with a fan; the only open end of the box is the side open into the room. What kind of fan system is this? The grill of each fan seems to have a space to insert a Glade plugin or something similar.
I am remodelling my bathroom in a condo, the old fan was garbage 50cfm, duct is 4”, bought a new fan ( 110 cfm, continuous run with motion sensor) from Aero Pure. Its duct diameter is 6”, my contractor says if I install 6” it wouldn’t function properly because the condo’s duct is 4”. I thought what if we put flexible joint 6” on one side and 4” on the other wouldn’t that fix the problem? He says it wouldn’t work and have to get a fan with 4” duct. Any advice please?
can I run a basement bathroom vent into a HRV cold air return vs. venting outside? I assume it will suck the moist air into the HRV, turn to condensation and drain or burn up in the furnace. =P
One thing I can't figure is the fan with a paddle wheel design, unlike a fan that produces a breeze on a hot day. I've put a tissue up to my inlet areas and there is light sucking out around the perimeter of the vent in some spots and blowing out at other spots. What gives? How is this thing sucking out air from the bathroom??
You should check to make sure that the outlet isn't blocked. In some older homes, the outlet just dumps into the attic. That can easily be blocked by blown-in or even lay-in insulation. I had to fix this in my last house and ran a new outlet line to the outside through a roof vent.
So if all the doors and window are closed wouldn't the bathroom fan struggle to pull air since everything is closed? Would you need to replace the air that was sucked out?
The room isn't really air tight. Think under the door and around door. A direct over the stove vent works the same. Nothing coming in, just air going out. Houses are never actually air tight.
Vent through the roof. If you search "How to Vent a Bath Fan Through the Roof | This Old House", Tommy shows you how to do install a vent through the roof.
“First floor” bathroom (no toilet) has NO vent to outside for shower moisture vent. Shower is not on outside wall. Upper floor supports run perpendicular from shower to outside wall. How can we vent that bathroom?
I have a similar situation except the shower is on the exterior wall. Tried to have someone install a fan and switch I had bought but they just gave up, said they couldn't do it and gave me my money back. Still no fan.
Not really. There has to be some form of fresh air that pulls into the house since New homes are really air tight. Bathroom fans are the easiest way to do it but there are other ways with the HVAC system
The bathroom vent sucks money out of you house. When you turn on the FAN it sucks the A/C or heat out of your home. Whatever is in the bathroom will dissipate in a few minutes.
You want the moisture and/or toilet smells to dissipate into the rest of your house? You need at least 3 complete air changes per hour (ACH) to keep your house healthy. If your house isn't sealed very well, you'll get air changes from the cracks in your house, but that's not the best way because then the air is pulled through insulation, potentially bugs/mice residue, etc
Cupid: This is the one you’re looking for: na.panasonic.com/ca/home-building-solutions/ventilation-indoor-air-quality/ventilation-fans/whispergreen-selecttm-one-fan-multiple-iaq-solutions-50-80-110-cfm It is also available on amazon: Panasonic FV-0511VK2 WhisperGreen Multi-Flow Bathroom Fan, White www.amazon.com/dp/B07DSK6JD1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-KNEb10NPJRF
I actually prefer a relatively LOUD exhaust fan to cover up "bathroom sounds"
Mine might be too loud. It sounds like a 747 at takeoff thrust.
If you go to someone's house and the fan kicks it's a sign your going to take a Deuce!
same here, i buy the cheapest fan because it is the loudest, nobody wants to hear their spouse huffing and puffing on the can
When someone’s on the John, and the fan turns on, Diarrhea!🎵
Bluetooth
So far, so good! I installed this fan yesterday. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I've been watching a continuous radon monitor in my house for about a week, and the levels have been running between 4.5 and 7.9 pCi/L. Shortly after I installed this fan, the radon level started dropping, and in less than 24 hours since I installed it, the level is now 1.9. My basement is approximately 2,000 square feet. Total home square footage above basement is approximately 4,000 square feet. The noise level so far is very quiet. Mine is installed indoors, so I had to purchase a cord and connector. If I have any problems later, I'll update my review. But for now, I'm very pleased with it.Update after 48 hours: Using a constant monitor, my radon is now fluctuating between 0.38 and 0.45 pCi/L. I've moved the monitor to my basement and am getting a constant 0.43 reading. After 24 hours, and when I know the weather will be safe, I'll place the monitor outside for about 12 hours. I'm thinking that the 0.38 to 0.45 may be the outside "ambient" radon level. I'm using this monitor (purchased from Amazon): Corentium Home Radon Detector by Airthings 223
I had 5 fans all venting into the attic when we moved into our house built that was built in '79. I was not going to put 5 extra holes in my house so I found a whole house fan by Aldes. It has a central fan that mounts in the attic and registers with dampers in each bathroom/laundry area. Ran insulated flex duct to the main housing with the fan in the attic. When you hit the switch in the bathroom, it opens the damper, a read switch on the damper kicks on the fan in the attic. Almost completely silent and moves a ton of air. Most contractors I have shown it to have never seen anything like it.
Retired home inspector here, buyer beware. Ducting and venting placement, and a reliable fan that is cheap, easy to replace or repair is all home owners need. As far as noise, get good insulation, but don't get a fan to do that job or it will be major trouble some years later. The last two fans are only if you have pro maintenance such as common areas in condos or coops. The central blower option is fine, except the motor is usually in a place hard to get to unless you design easy access from blue prints. In homes with multiple fans and ducting, if one fails, you have the others, with central, if it fails, all goes, and often hard to replace. The last option is a DC blower fan with digital controls, a nightmare to repair, expensive to buy and install, but quiet and energy efficient. In a lightning storm, the whole thing can lock up, reset, never shut off or turn on, and requires a power down, if it didn't get damaged. Sometimes, it will just fail, or a module will fail, and hard to diagnose, is this worth quiet and energy savings? Only if you run the fan 24/7 which no one does except in buildings, or maybe mansions with full time maintenance; for us, you're better off just getting a cheap Broan 688 type and a timer, for $20 each, and it will last decades, I use both, installed in 1978 and still going.
IR or motion sensors? Humidity sensors? scheduled timers? I've not seen any make it past 10 years, way after warranty, and before it it may just not sense right. Unless you are disabled or in a retirement home with maintenance to adjust or repair these as needed, don't bother. Just run a timer for 2x the length you ever need, use 30 instead of 15min or a full hour if unsure. In winter time, when air is dry, the bathroom will dry up quickly and fan time may be nothing, to avoid heat loss to the vent just open the door, the fan is more helpful in summer or year round to vent odors and take the heat loss.
How bout just open a window?
Where I am, the air is not dry in winter and that is the main time I worry about getting the moisture sufficiently out. A noisy rattly vent is obnoxious during what should be a relaxing bath. Your preferences are preferences, not the one true Answer.
Great and options thoroughly described. Thank you.
Thanks for choosing Fantech for this demonstration! We are happy to have served contractors like you for over 45 years. Keep up the good work!
I have yet to see a video of someone retrofitting a fan into a bathroom with no fan or ceiling fixture, only an outlet next to a sink that's on the first floor of a 2 story house and venting it to the side of the house. THAT'S the video I want to see.
Same
They didn't even talk about the most important aspect of bathroom fans which is CFM.
Or loudness (sones).
Its pronounced bluetooth
Yeah I think I'll just use a basic one with a switch.
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare.*
I have a Panasonic Whisper fan and I love it. Not cheap, but very quiet and efficient.
They're great products. I also like that they can be completely disassembled to be thoroughly cleaned once in a while.
But then you can’t fart out loud tho...
Does the humidity sensor work well?
When my house was flipped (so would not have bought had I known at the time it had been flipped because literally EVERYTHING was done improperly with wrong hardware, incorrect wiring and major corners cut) they put in the bathroom exhaust fan and dumped blow-in insulation right over the top of it (and its exposed electrical hookup!) having it blow right into a pile of insulation. I finally got a vent in the roof and have it ducted to it, but what a nightmare.
Mine was an old rental property and nothing in it made sense.
Most modern homes use the new lutron Maestro Timers for fans, as they look nice and run for whatever time you have it set to
AGREED - well worth the $30 cost. I once returned from a 3-week holiday and realized I left my bathroom exhaust fan on - DOH!
Doesn't really talk about how to pick one. All out was was 2 options.
My Russian landlord always used to sell his units by highlighting brand new "whisper-quiets" in the bathroom. 😂
Gets that vodka smell out
So they have auto timers that measure moisture. But the real question is if there are auto timers that have auto air quality sensors?
Great Video, this and a Tom Silva video on why not to use a soffit vent saved me from a dumb mistake. It makes sense once you think about it. I use Panasonic fans, seems the most quiet and most CFM with a 6 incg duct.
I started watching TOH with its first episode in 1979. Nothing in this video shows how to replace the fan or really how to choose the fan. Once again the show is just promoting the newest gadgets. Yes, I know this is from Ask TOH. Same thing
Where can I find the just the grill box to use with an in-line fan?
I recognize that last fan! That's a Panasonic VKS2 fan with motion sensing and humidity monitors! Really excellent fans.
What about flex duct decreasing airflow in duct? Also I don’t think you’re supposed to vent through the wall but I’m forgetting the reason... can you not add a damper?
I use a Lutron OCC sensor switch for the fan. Turns on when you go in to cover "sounds". Turns off by itself after you leave.
It may be a good idea to let people know that you can run these fans to more than 1 bathroom and these fans can be used for kitchens also , very easy to install , i am talking about the fan that you can mount anywhere and just cut a small round hole in ceiling for the inlet, these are the best kind because the regular fans that have vent attached to the fan get gummed up with dust and moister causing them to go bad in a year or so.
I like your idea. I have two bathrooms next to each other and one fan for both makes sense. But I am having trouble finding fand, at least at Lowes. Do you have a brand, a google search term suggestion?
@@johnpareizs3278 Inline Duct Fan 4 Inch Duct Fan with Remote Control Unit Variable Speed Controller 50W 280 CFM Ventilation Exhaust Blower Fans Efficient Quiet ***** LOOK FOR SOMETHING LIKE THISyou must mount this before the Y-connector closer to the exit outside.
@@johnpareizs3278 also be sure to use timers so people do not leave the fan too long, fan will pull out heating and cooling from the house and push it outside, i use a motion detector in one bathroom.
Thanks! I found a company called fan tech with exactly what you suggested. I also have another large bathroom where two vents would be good. Wish I did thus a few months ago. Attics in the south are hot this time of year
One of the biggest things this video neglected to mention was how powerful of a fan you need for the size of the bathroom you're trying to vent. Anywhere from 50 cfm up 150 cfm or more.
This one of the main things I had hoped they talked about.
Building code in most municipalities only require a 50 cfm bath fan. Unfortunately, that's what most builders installed because of the cost. That's barely enough to vent a half bath. The average U. S. bath is 5 feet wide by 8 to 9 feet long. 40 to 45 square feet. That's only 40 to 45 cubic feet of just the first foot down from the ceiling. The more appropriate fan would be one that moves 70 to 110 cubic feet per minute. Luckily, a better fan is also quieter. 2.5 sones down to 1.5 sones. The lower the better. Also, a timer should be a must.15 to 30 minutes will help remove a good portion of the moisture after a shower.
@Mircea The bathroom door bottom should be at least 3/4" to 1" from the floor to allow proper venting. Usually, that is all that is required to get proper air flow. Leaving a window open or keeping the bathroom door open is counterproductive while the fan is in operation. You can open either after the fan has run it's cycle of 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the room's moisture content after a shower. In addition, when doing a remodel or newer construction like an addition, I usually set the fan about a foot back from the front edge of the shower or tub then centered from each side. If you use a lighted fan, you'll also get more light into the shower area this way. Older construction had the fan over the toilet.
@Mircea A door vent is a good alternative but not very attractive. If privacy is a concern, keep the door bottom at 3/4" from the floor. You could also have a louvered door installed but unfortunately they allow more noise coming in or going out.
"install modules and run multiple wires"
No thanks
Always leave exhaust vent fan on 30 minutes after shower.
makes me wonder how many bathrooms can one fan handle?
Depends on what your family had for dinner.
I have an inline fan that splits to control two bathrooms. There is a receptacle that is controlled from a switch that it is plugged into in he attic. The receptacle is controlled by two 3-way switches, each in a bathroom. The switches are illuminated, so you know when the fan is off.
So the fan is for humidity, not odor?
#ThisOldHouse, Heath Eastman, How about doing another video that explains all the tech specs and how they are installed and used? My house (4 bedroom ranch) has a small bathroom and no exhaust fan. House was built in 1973. The tub/shower is next to the outside wall. I like the last one, the constant power one. Does that mean that it runs all the time, at low speed, until the switch/timer/moisture detector is turned on?
Fart puller
I switched out the exhaust fan in my small bathroom after I bought the house thinking a stronger fan will do a better job. NOPE. My bathroom still collects water droplets on ceiling and now I see mold. How do I fix this?
But my current bathroom fans go nowhere: they don’t vent anywhere; they are just a metal box with a fan; the only open end of the box is the side open into the room. What kind of fan system is this? The grill of each fan seems to have a space to insert a Glade plugin or something similar.
I am remodelling my bathroom in a condo, the old fan was garbage 50cfm, duct is 4”, bought a new fan ( 110 cfm, continuous run with motion sensor) from Aero Pure. Its duct diameter is 6”, my contractor says if I install 6” it wouldn’t function properly because the condo’s duct is 4”. I thought what if we put flexible joint 6” on one side and 4” on the other wouldn’t that fix the problem? He says it wouldn’t work and have to get a fan with 4” duct. Any advice please?
you kidding me>? I just installed a soffit vent two days ago!
It’s only a problem if you have a vented soffit, otherwise you should be alright.
I was hoping this would tell me which exhaust fan was better to buy. It did not. Although I did learn some very good information
can I run a basement bathroom vent into a HRV cold air return vs. venting outside? I assume it will suck the moist air into the HRV, turn to condensation and drain or burn up in the furnace. =P
Can you recommend any exhaust that goes to attic as opposed to roof? Too much power/moisture may not be good for attic. Thanks
Those Panasonic fans are great
If I have an 80 cfm fan now on 3" duct pipe, can I put a 130 cfm in and do a 5" to 3" reduction? Or is the fan too powerful to handle just a 3" pipe?
Thank you you both..💚✨🎥
I like this electrician.
Is there a simple remote control adapter for bathroom fans when not showering only when the daughter wants to hear music without the fan noise.
Finding difficulty in locating humidity module for the Panasonic fv model. Please advise.
Where is the link to buy the small black moisture sensor referenced at 3:55 mark?
I used wall fan
One thing I can't figure is the fan with a paddle wheel design, unlike a fan that produces a breeze on a hot day. I've put a tissue up to my inlet areas and there is light sucking out around the perimeter of the vent in some spots and blowing out at other spots. What gives? How is this thing sucking out air from the bathroom??
You should check to make sure that the outlet isn't blocked. In some older homes, the outlet just dumps into the attic. That can easily be blocked by blown-in or even lay-in insulation. I had to fix this in my last house and ran a new outlet line to the outside through a roof vent.
No discussion on ventless I hear they’re getting better
If you have a window, can you just open the window for a few minutes after a shower or do you still need a vent? Is the combo vent/infrared heat good?
Depends where you live. Even in the North it's still humid in the summer. Opening a window is just going to bring in more humidity.
So if all the doors and window are closed wouldn't the bathroom fan struggle to pull air since everything is closed? Would you need to replace the air that was sucked out?
The room isn't really air tight. Think under the door and around door. A direct over the stove vent works the same. Nothing coming in, just air going out. Houses are never actually air tight.
Could ONE remote motor be tied into 2 separate bathrooms that are actually less than 30ft from each other?
Yes. I did this in a previous house.
Any ductless recommendations?
I have a ranch with hip roofs, so no gable ends or walls to protrude. Both bathrooms are at the front of the house. Where should these be vented?
Vent through the roof. If you search "How to Vent a Bath Fan Through the Roof | This Old House", Tommy shows you how to do install a vent through the roof.
What is smallest size pipe I can use for exhaust fan for my bathroom
Go by there instructions for the fan you buy
what is the name of this vent?
So how to choice a bathroom fan ????
“First floor” bathroom (no toilet) has NO vent to outside for shower moisture vent. Shower is not on outside wall. Upper floor supports run perpendicular from shower to outside wall. How can we vent that bathroom?
Open the door and hope for the best ;)
I have a similar situation except the shower is on the exterior wall. Tried to have someone install a fan and switch I had bought but they just gave up, said they couldn't do it and gave me my money back. Still no fan.
But how many CFM?
I need a ductless unit for my bathroom. What kind do I need to get?
A ductless 🤪
I through it was code in the U S to have exhaust fans
Not really. There has to be some form of fresh air that pulls into the house since New homes are really air tight. Bathroom fans are the easiest way to do it but there are other ways with the HVAC system
Depends on location. Some cities are more strict on building codes and some are more lax.
Brendan Fraiser?
Discount Brendan Fraiser.
Humidity sensor ain't gonna' help that diarrhea.
What kind of voodoo is this. My bathroom fan went out this morning!
Don't get a moisture sensor, they don't work.
How to take a simple bathroom fan, add tech, and make it complex and expensive. No thanks.
Kevin putting on that COVID weight.
So witch one will not make me look bad when people come over? Asking for a friend
This cocaine house
The bathroom vent sucks money out of you house. When you turn on the FAN it sucks the A/C or heat out of your home. Whatever is in the bathroom will dissipate in a few minutes.
You want the moisture and/or toilet smells to dissipate into the rest of your house? You need at least 3 complete air changes per hour (ACH) to keep your house healthy. If your house isn't sealed very well, you'll get air changes from the cracks in your house, but that's not the best way because then the air is pulled through insulation, potentially bugs/mice residue, etc
7th like!!!
...absolutely NO ONE cares!!!
@@robertallen6710 oh if u bothered to andwser then u care just btw
An Irish couple. A blond Irish. How dare it?? Jim X 2. A restaurant. A cop from a blown stop. Gomorrah. X St porch.
Can we talk about what's up with Asians getting these removed during house remodels? Thumbs up if you know what im talking about.
So where do we buy that last option? The one with constant power to the fan.
Cupid at the store.
@@MookieMan1 Cool man. Thanks. I was hoping for a model number or at least brand name and type. But thanks.
Cupid:
This is the one you’re looking for:
na.panasonic.com/ca/home-building-solutions/ventilation-indoor-air-quality/ventilation-fans/whispergreen-selecttm-one-fan-multiple-iaq-solutions-50-80-110-cfm
It is also available on amazon:
Panasonic FV-0511VK2 WhisperGreen Multi-Flow Bathroom Fan, White
www.amazon.com/dp/B07DSK6JD1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-KNEb10NPJRF