I would only drill the hole saw to the required depth for clearance of the d ring well, thus avoiding a through hole. Once drilled to depth, chisel out the waste.
@@Chris_L034 If you straddle two planks like he did, it naturally has an opening for water to drain out, so I think that's the way to go: Straddle 2 planks, and drill enough to clear the "cup" portion of the top.
It doesn't seem like there is much wood left between the bolt holes and the larger sawed hole. I installed these, but over the trailer's cross members and anchored them directly to the frame instead of the wood. I also routed down the deck about 1/8 inch around the base of the rings to get them truly flush. I think it makes for a much stronger hold and I can still freely slide boxes, equipment, etc. around the deck without getting hung up on the ring bases.
@@zachariahweiss1003id asume he put 2 of the bolt holes over one of the cross members and then bolted them to the cross members and then bolted the other 2 to the wood like shown.
If you had to do it over again would you consider cutting the hole only partway through and just chisel out the cup? I'm thinking leaving some wood there would improve the strength of those areas and chiseling out the bottom of the pocket might only take a couple minutes per pocket?
Absolutely, I actually tried that on some of the remaining holes. Though I haven’t had any problems with the ones that are drilled through, especially considering the large backing plate. It does take a little more effort. I think if you’re going to do that one thing to consider is that if you don’t straddle boards like I did, I’d also recommend drilling a small hole in the bottom of the hole to let water drain out.
@@stuffyoucando2 glad you already tried it! 100% agree on the water drainage, too. I might even consider a small cheap can of truck bed liner to protect the wood. ProjectFarm has a good video comparing the toughness of a few brands of diy liners. Assuming the pocket is over sized enough to handle 2 thicknesses (due to diameter geometry) of the coating, those pockets ought to be pretty well protected. I've seen some signs elsewhere that truck bed liner on wood trailers (at the very least as a top coating) can make that wood last a very long time.
Perfect instruction video. I got the exact same kit as you and you answered all of the questions that I had after reading the instructions. Namely, which direction should the ring go and how to orient the backing plate. Nicely done. I'm also planning on using a hand held router to route out a small depth so the entire frame sits flush with the surface of my wood. Thoughts? Thanks.
Thanks! As for the router, that’s totally up to you. I’m not sure you’ll gain anything functionally but it’ll look nice. Also, if you read some of the other comments, you can also not drill all the way through the deck and just chisel out the depth needed for it to fit. I did some of my later ones like this and it turned out nice.
I like the stakepocket D rings, I think they work fine for most things, but wanted to have more in the deck for when I need to secure several different items on the trailer. I’ve hauled several vehicles (3500lbs+) on this trailer with the deck mounted rings with no issues. There is plenty of strength, especially when straddling multiple boards.
I haul anything from tractors up to small trucks and Jeeps and have had no issues. Obviously the decking needs to be secure in addition to the D-rings being installed properly.
It would be dependent on what your bolting to, but personally I wouldn’t consider the wood around one D-Ring capable of 6000lbs on my trailer. However, it’s irrelevant when you consider that you are always going to be holding the load down with multiple straps and D-Rings as well as in the case of my trailer that the whole trailer is only rated for a 5000lb payload. So for a simple example, if I put a 5000lb car on my trailer and secure it with 4 straps to 4 D-Rings, the load is effectively shared by multiple D-Rings.
@@stuffyoucando2 that makes sense. I believe my trailer is about the same rating as yours. I guess that backplate also would help distribute the weight that gets attached to the d ring.
Any issues with the nuts loosening off the bolts? I can't tell if the wood is just compressing requiring me to snug them over and over, or if something's wrong with my setup. I used lock washers instead of lock nuts.
I haven’t had any issues myself. Could be wood shrinkage or your lock nuts. Next time you tighten them mark the nut and thread with a paint marker (or count the exposed threads) and you’ll be able to tell if the nuts are moving or if it’s something else.
That’s something you should do your own research for, I don’t know what your Jeep weighs or any other details about that. This video just shows how they’re installed.
Thanks for making this. Simple and straight to the point. Installing mine tomorrow.
Thanks!
I would only drill the hole saw to the required depth for clearance of the d ring well, thus avoiding a through hole. Once drilled to depth, chisel out the waste.
Or could use a router
@@Chris_L034 Good thought Chris, I did not consider standing water.
That's exactly what I would do.
It has a drain hole for water, so it doesn’t rust or freeze
@@Chris_L034 If you straddle two planks like he did, it naturally has an opening for water to drain out, so I think that's the way to go: Straddle 2 planks, and drill enough to clear the "cup" portion of the top.
It doesn't seem like there is much wood left between the bolt holes and the larger sawed hole. I installed these, but over the trailer's cross members and anchored them directly to the frame instead of the wood. I also routed down the deck about 1/8 inch around the base of the rings to get them truly flush. I think it makes for a much stronger hold and I can still freely slide boxes, equipment, etc. around the deck without getting hung up on the ring bases.
Is there a way you could show me how you did that? I’m cringing at this video- and I’m curious how you anchored them to the frame.
@@zachariahweiss1003id asume he put 2 of the bolt holes over one of the cross members and then bolted them to the cross members and then bolted the other 2 to the wood like shown.
If you had to do it over again would you consider cutting the hole only partway through and just chisel out the cup? I'm thinking leaving some wood there would improve the strength of those areas and chiseling out the bottom of the pocket might only take a couple minutes per pocket?
Absolutely, I actually tried that on some of the remaining holes. Though I haven’t had any problems with the ones that are drilled through, especially considering the large backing plate. It does take a little more effort. I think if you’re going to do that one thing to consider is that if you don’t straddle boards like I did, I’d also recommend drilling a small hole in the bottom of the hole to let water drain out.
@@stuffyoucando2 glad you already tried it! 100% agree on the water drainage, too. I might even consider a small cheap can of truck bed liner to protect the wood.
ProjectFarm has a good video comparing the toughness of a few brands of diy liners. Assuming the pocket is over sized enough to handle 2 thicknesses (due to diameter geometry) of the coating, those pockets ought to be pretty well protected. I've seen some signs elsewhere that truck bed liner on wood trailers (at the very least as a top coating) can make that wood last a very long time.
Perfect instruction video. I got the exact same kit as you and you answered all of the questions that I had after reading the instructions. Namely, which direction should the ring go and how to orient the backing plate. Nicely done.
I'm also planning on using a hand held router to route out a small depth so the entire frame sits flush with the surface of my wood. Thoughts?
Thanks.
Thanks! As for the router, that’s totally up to you. I’m not sure you’ll gain anything functionally but it’ll look nice. Also, if you read some of the other comments, you can also not drill all the way through the deck and just chisel out the depth needed for it to fit. I did some of my later ones like this and it turned out nice.
I welded up some stake pocket d rings. They are handy and easily can be moved around the outside of the trailer. Not much wood hold your d ring down.
I like the stakepocket D rings, I think they work fine for most things, but wanted to have more in the deck for when I need to secure several different items on the trailer. I’ve hauled several vehicles (3500lbs+) on this trailer with the deck mounted rings with no issues. There is plenty of strength, especially when straddling multiple boards.
These adequately hold a vehicle? Juat wondering.
I haul anything from tractors up to small trucks and Jeeps and have had no issues. Obviously the decking needs to be secure in addition to the D-rings being installed properly.
I know the tie downs are rated for 6,000lbs, but will the wood planks handle that capacity also?
It would be dependent on what your bolting to, but personally I wouldn’t consider the wood around one D-Ring capable of 6000lbs on my trailer. However, it’s irrelevant when you consider that you are always going to be holding the load down with multiple straps and D-Rings as well as in the case of my trailer that the whole trailer is only rated for a 5000lb payload. So for a simple example, if I put a 5000lb car on my trailer and secure it with 4 straps to 4 D-Rings, the load is effectively shared by multiple D-Rings.
@@stuffyoucando2 that makes sense. I believe my trailer is about the same rating as yours. I guess that backplate also would help distribute the weight that gets attached to the d ring.
I just ordered a set of these "Buyers" brand d-rings for my motorcycle trailer. The part number for this particular kit is B801AK
I have same brand d-ring. Label on package said 3 5/8” hole needed. Based on the 3 1/2” hole you drilled - should I use that size?
I just installed 2 more of these in my trailer last week and used 3 1/2” with no issues.
Any issues with the nuts loosening off the bolts? I can't tell if the wood is just compressing requiring me to snug them over and over, or if something's wrong with my setup. I used lock washers instead of lock nuts.
I haven’t had any issues myself. Could be wood shrinkage or your lock nuts. Next time you tighten them mark the nut and thread with a paint marker (or count the exposed threads) and you’ll be able to tell if the nuts are moving or if it’s something else.
Would these work to tie down a Jeep on a Similar trailer?
That’s something you should do your own research for, I don’t know what your Jeep weighs or any other details about that. This video just shows how they’re installed.
No frame under bolts, i would go through steel, even if i had to weld a piece in