The cleaning started as a necessity in tracking down the source of fluid leaks. 🤣 Anytime I replace a part I try to clean that general area pretty well and it just added up over time. As for the parts, there’s a little bit of a mix there, so the low cost stuff like bolts, washers, and clamps I just ordered all new stuff from online vendors. For the larger steel parts like the cam gear, hood latches, brackets, pulleys, etc, I had them glass bead blasted and yellow zinc plated locally, ran about $260 for what would have been $2,000+ worth of retail cost to replace.
@nc944er I’d love to see an over view of the sunroof system, I’m having a lot of issues with mine and would love to see you explain it as clear as you do.
Hey Nick, sure… I’d first try a 1/8” hex head if you have one, as it’s just a bit larger than the 3mm size. If that’s still slipping, you could bump up to a 3.5mm or a 4mm hex head, although you may have to tap it in with a hammer, but that may be enough to get a grip to break the bolt free. In more extreme cases, you can use a hack saw or small cutting wheel on a rotary tool to cut a notch in the bolt head to accommodate a flat head screwdriver. Be prepared to replace the rotor with that last method as it’s likely to get damaged in the process. And yet another method, if you have welding equipment and can sacrifice the tool, would involve welding the 3mm hex bit to the top of the bolt head for removal. Good luck! 👍🏼
Can a bad distributor cap cause the car to stall out completely? I have an oddball situation where my car was running absolutely perfect and I was taking a slight right turn into my driveway and it just stalled out as if I turn the key off and now won't start, cranks but doesn't start. I checked the DME relay, the fuel lines, pump, fuses, battery, alternator, changed the spark plugs, and even tried jumping the DME. I'm running out of ideas. Only other thing I can think of is the actual DME. My car is a 1985.5 944.
@@thegreatpatsy Hey, sorry to hear about your car’s “no start” issue. The distributor caps generally exhibit a slow degradation in engine performance rather than an immediate catastrophic failure, but it’s not impossible I suppose. The ignition rotors are more susceptible to damage given the material used in their construction. At any rate, here are a few other suspects to inspect/consider: • Ensure the distributor cap is not loose, the retaining screws are engaged, and there are no cracks or carbon tracking on the inside contacts. • Inspect the ignition rotor for damage, they can crack, the set screw can also back out and then the rotor will not spin in time with the camshaft. • Perform resistance tests on the speed/reference sensors and inspect their wiring and connectors for damage, it’s very common for the plastic connectors to crumble and expose the wiring to shorts and damage. • If your car features a factory alarm system, bypass the alarm control module as these can fail and prevent the engine from starting. • Although it’s not very common, the ignition coils can fail as well, so it couldn’t hurt to perform resistance tests on the coil and confirm it’s within specification. • Check for proper connections and the integrity of the wiring in the engine compartment, including AFM, fuel injectors, and spark plug leads. The injector harnesses are a weak point and can fail at the rubber boot areas. • Finally the DME computer in the passenger footwell, difficult to test, but you can confirm visual damage if it’s been exposed to water entering the cabin, either through a failed windshield seal or rusted out battery tray, the DME’s metal case would show signs of rust or contaminated water marks on the outside. The solder joints inside can also crack, although that can be more difficult to observe. I would save this one for last and consider a Sport DME from F9T if the DME computer is suspect to damage.
@@NC944er Thanks so much for the quick and very detailed response! I did re-inspect the distributor cap and noticed some gashes in 2 of the connector poles inside (for lack of a better term). So perhaps while I was decelerating, this thing just petered out. I've ordered a new one so we'll see. Also did check the speed and crank sensors and both are showing good spec with my multi-meter. I will inspect the DME computer next to see if I could identify anything, along with the TPS and AFM. I'll let you know how things turn out.
Nice clean engine! Could you pelase tell the source where Porsche recommends to use super glue to fit the dust cap? I couldn't find this in the Workshop Manual, so I just put the cap in place and assume that the distributor cap is holding it in its place. So far no wiggling around. BTW, getting my rotor off was a big challenge, as for pretty much anyone, and I have now some damage of the connecting piece, though it doesn't affect operation. I'd need to buy now a whole set from Porsche (944 602 901 0x), which I guess will have to wait for the next 30k km, i.e. 10+ years :D
Hey, thank you! The dust cap installation information can be found in Workshop Manual Vol. 1: Engine - Section 15-24, Fitting Distributor Rotor, Step 2. Attach Dust Cap, where it indicates to “adhere lightly to brackets using quick-action adhesive.” It also says to cut a slot in the cap so it can be installed with the rotor in place, which I prefer not to do and instead remove the rotor when the cam gear cover has to come off.
@@NC944er Indeed! Thanks. I was looking only in section 28-5. I wonder if super glue is needed also when one doesn't cut the dust cap. Cutting it can indeed cause surprises. Interestingly, Clark's Garage doesn't mention to Loctite the screw on the rotor, but I'll still do it to be on the safe side.
@@MrTomiki Yeah, my dust cover was a bit loose in position so I went with a little glue. I haven’t been reapplying loctite to the setscrew on the rotor and it’s been fine so far. I guess the purple stuff is recommended as the blue loctite can be too strong for such a small fitting. I’ve heard stories of the screws backing out over time, but have yet to see that on mine.
@@NC944er well, hopefully you won't have a lose rotor :) My dust cap is also loose, it doesn't tighten into its place at all, but the distributor cap is holding it firmly. I just bought some Loctite 221, that's what the manual says for the hex screw, so I'll put it in.
this might seem like a funny question and I find it even funnier that the Porsche community loves sharing basic information but there's not one picture or any detail when it comes to routing the plugs to their designated cylinder. I see where cylinder #1 plug goes but where are the rest going to? I've only seen people post pictures and talk about firing order points on the cap itself but the only thing I'm still having trouble clarifying is the location of cylinder 2-4 on the actual head. I understand cylinder one is located at the very front -closest to the radiator but where is 2-3-4 located on the block? Is it safe to assume that the locations are as followed 1-2-3-4? in that same order? maybe im confusing firing order with location? Can someone clarify please- I got points on the cap correct but Im still wondering where location of each plug goes into on the head...maybe im just overthinking this?
Yep, the piston locations are numbered in sequential order from front to rear as 1, 2, 3, 4, which is different from the firing order of 1, 3, 4, 2. The designation of cylinders is outlined in the Factory Workshop Manual, Vol .1 - Engine, Technical Data Section, Page 0.7. The "fun" German where there, Fahrtrichtung, translates to "Direction of traffic." -p914-6info.net/944_Manuals/Vol1-Engine.pdf
Very helpful, mine broke down yesterday and had all the exact symptoms you mentioned
Instant subscription clean engine bay and a very very thorough video! Thank you
Thanks man! Glad you found it useful. 👍🏼
So glad I found and subscribed to your channel. I've gotta 1987 951. Very helpful to me a DIYer
This is a re-post of a prior video with some of the technical information updated for accuracy... cheers!
Thank you for all your informative videos!
How did you clean your engine so well? Also, where did you purchase all those nice shiny metal parts?
The cleaning started as a necessity in tracking down the source of fluid leaks. 🤣 Anytime I replace a part I try to clean that general area pretty well and it just added up over time.
As for the parts, there’s a little bit of a mix there, so the low cost stuff like bolts, washers, and clamps I just ordered all new stuff from online vendors.
For the larger steel parts like the cam gear, hood latches, brackets, pulleys, etc, I had them glass bead blasted and yellow zinc plated locally, ran about $260 for what would have been $2,000+ worth of retail cost to replace.
Wonderful. Thanks for sharing.
@nc944er I’d love to see an over view of the sunroof system, I’m having a lot of issues with mine and would love to see you explain it as clear as you do.
It’s on the list…. at some point. 🤪
Hey! Any advice on getting off that 3mm hex that has been stripped? Thanks, love the video!
Hey Nick, sure… I’d first try a 1/8” hex head if you have one, as it’s just a bit larger than the 3mm size. If that’s still slipping, you could bump up to a 3.5mm or a 4mm hex head, although you may have to tap it in with a hammer, but that may be enough to get a grip to break the bolt free. In more extreme cases, you can use a hack saw or small cutting wheel on a rotary tool to cut a notch in the bolt head to accommodate a flat head screwdriver. Be prepared to replace the rotor with that last method as it’s likely to get damaged in the process. And yet another method, if you have welding equipment and can sacrifice the tool, would involve welding the 3mm hex bit to the top of the bolt head for removal. Good luck! 👍🏼
Great video as usual mate, precise and immaculate. 👌
I bet this guy irons his underwear!
Can a bad distributor cap cause the car to stall out completely? I have an oddball situation where my car was running absolutely perfect and I was taking a slight right turn into my driveway and it just stalled out as if I turn the key off and now won't start, cranks but doesn't start. I checked the DME relay, the fuel lines, pump, fuses, battery, alternator, changed the spark plugs, and even tried jumping the DME. I'm running out of ideas. Only other thing I can think of is the actual DME. My car is a 1985.5 944.
@@thegreatpatsy Hey, sorry to hear about your car’s “no start” issue. The distributor caps generally exhibit a slow degradation in engine performance rather than an immediate catastrophic failure, but it’s not impossible I suppose. The ignition rotors are more susceptible to damage given the material used in their construction. At any rate, here are a few other suspects to inspect/consider:
• Ensure the distributor cap is not loose, the retaining screws are engaged, and there are no cracks or carbon tracking on the inside contacts.
• Inspect the ignition rotor for damage, they can crack, the set screw can also back out and then the rotor will not spin in time with the camshaft.
• Perform resistance tests on the speed/reference sensors and inspect their wiring and connectors for damage, it’s very common for the plastic connectors to crumble and expose the wiring to shorts and damage.
• If your car features a factory alarm system, bypass the alarm control module as these can fail and prevent the engine from starting.
• Although it’s not very common, the ignition coils can fail as well, so it couldn’t hurt to perform resistance tests on the coil and confirm it’s within specification.
• Check for proper connections and the integrity of the wiring in the engine compartment, including AFM, fuel injectors, and spark plug leads. The injector harnesses are a weak point and can fail at the rubber boot areas.
• Finally the DME computer in the passenger footwell, difficult to test, but you can confirm visual damage if it’s been exposed to water entering the cabin, either through a failed windshield seal or rusted out battery tray, the DME’s metal case would show signs of rust or contaminated water marks on the outside. The solder joints inside can also crack, although that can be more difficult to observe. I would save this one for last and consider a Sport DME from F9T if the DME computer is suspect to damage.
@@NC944er Thanks so much for the quick and very detailed response! I did re-inspect the distributor cap and noticed some gashes in 2 of the connector poles inside (for lack of a better term). So perhaps while I was decelerating, this thing just petered out. I've ordered a new one so we'll see. Also did check the speed and crank sensors and both are showing good spec with my multi-meter. I will inspect the DME computer next to see if I could identify anything, along with the TPS and AFM. I'll let you know how things turn out.
@@thegreatpatsy how did things turn out? I'm curious if you were able to get it running again
@@carterdavis5176 It was my timing belt. Ended up replacing the head too because I bent a couple valves. It’s now running again
Thank you so much!
Nice clean engine!
Could you pelase tell the source where Porsche recommends to use super glue to fit the dust cap? I couldn't find this in the Workshop Manual, so I just put the cap in place and assume that the distributor cap is holding it in its place. So far no wiggling around.
BTW, getting my rotor off was a big challenge, as for pretty much anyone, and I have now some damage of the connecting piece, though it doesn't affect operation. I'd need to buy now a whole set from Porsche (944 602 901 0x), which I guess will have to wait for the next 30k km, i.e. 10+ years :D
Hey, thank you! The dust cap installation information can be found in Workshop Manual Vol. 1: Engine - Section 15-24, Fitting Distributor Rotor, Step 2. Attach Dust Cap, where it indicates to “adhere lightly to brackets using quick-action adhesive.” It also says to cut a slot in the cap so it can be installed with the rotor in place, which I prefer not to do and instead remove the rotor when the cam gear cover has to come off.
@@NC944er Indeed! Thanks. I was looking only in section 28-5. I wonder if super glue is needed also when one doesn't cut the dust cap. Cutting it can indeed cause surprises. Interestingly, Clark's Garage doesn't mention to Loctite the screw on the rotor, but I'll still do it to be on the safe side.
@@MrTomiki Yeah, my dust cover was a bit loose in position so I went with a little glue. I haven’t been reapplying loctite to the setscrew on the rotor and it’s been fine so far. I guess the purple stuff is recommended as the blue loctite can be too strong for such a small fitting. I’ve heard stories of the screws backing out over time, but have yet to see that on mine.
@@NC944er well, hopefully you won't have a lose rotor :) My dust cap is also loose, it doesn't tighten into its place at all, but the distributor cap is holding it firmly. I just bought some Loctite 221, that's what the manual says for the hex screw, so I'll put it in.
this might seem like a funny question and I find it even funnier that the Porsche community loves sharing basic information but there's not one picture or any detail when it comes to routing the plugs to their designated cylinder. I see where cylinder #1 plug goes but where are the rest going to? I've only seen people post pictures and talk about firing order points on the cap itself but the only thing I'm still having trouble clarifying is the location of cylinder 2-4 on the actual head. I understand cylinder one is located at the very front -closest to the radiator but where is 2-3-4 located on the block? Is it safe to assume that the locations are as followed 1-2-3-4? in that same order? maybe im confusing firing order with location? Can someone clarify please- I got points on the cap correct but Im still wondering where location of each plug goes into on the head...maybe im just overthinking this?
In the video i see you plug in the very first one but then the installation process just cuts out and the video ends-
Yep, the piston locations are numbered in sequential order from front to rear as 1, 2, 3, 4, which is different from the firing order of 1, 3, 4, 2. The designation of cylinders is outlined in the Factory Workshop Manual, Vol .1 - Engine, Technical Data Section, Page 0.7. The "fun" German where there, Fahrtrichtung, translates to "Direction of traffic." -p914-6info.net/944_Manuals/Vol1-Engine.pdf
How do you know which HT goes to which plug?
Hey Steve, each of the four spark plug wires has a different length and they would be assigned to spark plugs 1, 2, 3, and 4 from shortest to longest.