RAGS TO DUAL U JOINT STEERING SHAFT!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2016
- ERIK THE WRENCH installs a a new steering shaft with dual u joints from BCB!!! stronger and tighter tthan rag joint!!! Requird for body lift...
IH Scout II, universal brand old 4x4 example - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great video. My question is shouldn't there be a regular slip joint so as the cab/steering column and frame flexes, there will be no binding or strain put on anything, especially a big truck when off road? When/until I convert my Loadstar to power steering at this point I'm not sure how it will connect to the steering column.
Thanks.
And I really appreciate that you answered my question on your other video. Most people who create a video then never look at it again. The fact that you took the time to answer my question puts you above almost all other you-tubers. Thank you.
yes it should be in the pinned comment, where I slotted where the pin dimple was drilled, on the steering shaft that meets the first joint, so that it can slide up and down a slight bit on the splines.
Ron, To reiterate, I was perfectly clear about addressing all of these issues. So:
-1- For race only application w/ hard body mounts, notch the set screw on the splines so it can "telescope" slightly and it winds up more of a stop screw, just below snug w/ locktite...
Because even solid mounts there will still be some flex. Especially off road.
for which you absolutely will need a telescoping shaft if you remove the rag, these didnt come telescoping ,fyi, the rag has a good 1/8" of play in each direction.
So while the steering feels amazing with out the rag, Unless you have a sponsor paying for these 800$ steering boxes every few races..... I suggest you, and I have already suggested to BCB they sell a telescoping shaft.......
Amazing video. Great description!
Thank you! Just installed in my 78 Scout....Your video was invaluable in doing this project......thanks again!
how did it work out?
Just did my 70 ford...
👉DROP DA COLUMUM👈
D N , The issue you are likely having is without a rag joint it must be adjusted exactly. the steering box is on the frame and the wheel is on the body. so when the bushings sag, the shaft needs adjustment. The fix is how it says not to slot the indent for the set screw on the steering shaft, SLOT IT for adjustment! when its set right its worth it!
Awesome
thanks for sharing :-)
Good video 👌🏻
thanks, finally back on it, a lot more soon
Great video! I wish you would have showed the part where you actually put them all come together and installed.
I did! see my reply to first comment highlighted
What is described as a "Rag Joint" is actually a vibration absorbing rubber and fiber disk.
its also allowing play for body flex to not bind on the shaft or joints, One trick I did later was slot where the set screw goes on the splined shaft so it can telescope under extreme flex even with poly bushings or solid, there will be premature wear on the u joints if its a daily driver
Greetings for you from Iraq
Awesome! i would love to explore but they don't like to give sovereign citizens passports here lmao
Thanks !
I was happy, i later realized a trick, slot the shaft and leave one fastener snug, this way under extreeme flex, it wont bind!!!
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER i really like my burgerson with the small adjustor shaft i cut down to fit my vandura 6.2 91 , still rode it today , after 3 y im getting a bit of play , might have to change mine eventually i guess, but they still have a long way to go. its just minimal , damage occured before i reaslised i had to change my gearbox and pump as well.. change so many things on my van since 3y ago. even swap my 4l80e by myself in the driveway this summer. cheers hope you still enjoy yours
Yea Vinny
Lol, I grew up in Chicago, but I guess I picked up a bit of my families heavy east coast accent lmao
Just did this upgrade now I have a click in the shaft when my wheel hits the 3 o clock position any ideas?
WATCH TO SEE IF ITS BINDING WHEN THE WHEEL IS SLOWLY TURNED, MAKE SURE STEERING SHAFT ITSELF IS NO BENT, IF ITS BOUNCING BACK AND FOURTH, THE WHEEL, LIKE TRYING TO GO STRAIGHT, ITS A WORN STEERING GEAR IN THE BOX, OTHERWISE SHOULD BE NO CLICKS, POSSIBLY SHAFT STICKING OUT INTO THE JOINT AREA RUBBING... LOOK FOR SCRATCHES
Where did you get the u joints?
ironhammer.info/OffRoad.html this is a link to all the IH links, they are called Back Country Binders
Liked it I’m going to do the Same e
READ PINNED COMMENT FIRST
Where do you find a universal I'm looking one for my 78 Thunderbird
You really need a solid body, If not reinforced... and polyurethane bushings. See the body flexes on the frame, the steering box is connected to frame but steering wheel is mounted to body...... so that’s why their is a rag joint for daily drivers. But still I love their u joints, get one from BCB
One thing about "rag joints" is... they never bind. U-joint shafts eventually develope a sticky binding feel that's super annoying.
Again, the old pinned comment, and now the new one address the couple issues I must have been unclear about. on a race car making quick decisions and you want more response/feel and the same for off road racing with big mushy tires, every bit helps, rally race or off road, their is a lot more stress and you will see most rag joints have the 2 stops bent even with a like new joint...... Please read pinned comment b4 installing, sure, like most performance mods, things wear out faster, race car engines get rebuilt every few races..... half the formula off road drivers reck their trucks trying to win..... its up to you, if you, how far do you push the limits! powersliding and the rag joint gives that unexpected little "shock absorption, your about to test your roll cage lol
The u-bolt shaft
Well I got mine from Back country Binders. But they specialize in IH, go to the manufacture webpage, oh and I must say see your other comment....
Hi eric what kind of connection do you have coming out of the column?
out of the column?
Yes
Like the steering shaft poking through the firewall, under the hood? It's a splined male shaft that has a perpendicular divet for a bolt to lock in.
That divit is where I made sure the set screw in the new joint sat
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER
My column is 1" DD and I had it connecting to a double U-joint than shaft connected splines female to gear and DD 3/4 TO shaft. It buckled so I'm switching design to single u-joint off my column.
MUST have the stiff polyurethane body bushings, even then when the body flexes, it slightly binds on the joints and the steering box! so you need either a rag, or a telescoping spline shaft, could actually weld a sleeve on the end of the joint, to fit above the spline on the end of the steering shaft leaving a 1/4" gap for travel, or just make a spline slip shaft that fits between the joints,
Then again I over think things, could just leave a 1/4" of slack on the steering shaft joint and slot a 1/2" where the are screw goes, Nd snug it only enough so it don't rattle, o my way it's coming off is if the frame tips off the truck and I do t think the wheel is anything more than so thing to hold on to at that point lol
Eric nice video. Did you grind off the splined portion of the steering gear? I'm trying to add a new steering column to 63 Travelall. Is your u-joint 3/4" to 1"?
yes the output shaft on gearbox was 3/4" and i ground a nub off the tip of the shaft.
see how I lined mine up so the logo was facing up on the ujoints. well the set screw that goes on the wheel end of the shaft, wound up in that concave slot for the old screw! I had to file a flat slot where the screw set, could have just turned the joint around....
just make sure you have good body bushings, prefer poly, if the body is flexing off the frame, their is no rag joint for play on the solid shaft... Flaming river also has new rag joints. But I do love the feel of the solid dual joints.... just make sure if you do grind a flat spot for the set screw make sure its egged out parallel to shaft so if it does want to slam and telescope in..... would love a splined telescoping sleeve on shaft just like the front drive shaft....
long story short, my Scout is my daily driver / work truck and toy. and after about two years the front ujoint had a tiny bit of play, even with poly bushings. so if its not your daily driver, they could last over 10 years no problem.
Hi eric
we used your video to help us along with adding Power Steering to my 1963 Travelall. Want to send a video to you what is a good email?
thanks
Mark
Hey, please do! you can email me at bed.hed@yahoo.com probably need a google drive link.... last year half the comments started slipping past my notifications some how!!!!! Im getting ready to start uploading all the videos regularly! now that my metro is almost done, and my record is almost reeady to release, I got time!!!!
What is the part number
Back country binders, but hold on Ill find the number 4 u when I wake up lol
www.backcountrybinders.com/steering/scout-2-steering-u-joint-kit.html
Why is it people keep giving terrible information about steering Shafts. DANGER! These guy that keep putting a fixed ridged shafts in place of a one that had the ability not only to dampen radialy but telescopically as well. There is motion between the body and frame. This varies the length of the steering shaft and prevents damage to the Upper Shafts bearings and the Steering.Gear bushing and seal. Also I have seen blinkers return springs damaged. Later they went to a telescopic bushing and we have people that don't replace it they just put a fixed length shafts to replace them. BAD Mistake. I wonder do they not understand the dynamics of why this is nessesary. PLEASE DO NOT LISTEN TO THOSE THAT DON'T REALIZE THEY ARE MISLEADING YOU. THANKS
Ron please read the pinned comment, it is a direct reply to you and will correct the misunderstanding, Possibly I was not clear but I did address each of your concerns!
@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER I had written on a number of videos about the need for a means for the shaft to be able to vary in length. That was the reason for the rag joint and later the coupling cup on the CJ's. Your particular install was not a bad job. Also you have an extra bend and coupling which might provide lateral motion. The Engineers at AMC put the lower Coupling Cup in the shafts to allow for this variation in length. The destruction of the nylon pins and allowing the shafts provide the variation is dangerous and causes the shafts to wallow out and fatigue. Even the sellers and supplier dont understand the dynamics or don't care. I get to replace the lower upper steering shaft bearing mostly but some where the steering Gear Box has wiggle in the CJ frame mounts allows for movement has destroyed internal steering columb components. It is an obvious oversight. But the body and frame do move independently. Dont taks this as a put down it isnt. It js mean't to clarify the need for telescopic movement in shafts and destroying collapsible design isn't the solution. Thanks. Just trying to help cause tge manufacturers and sellers don't appear to care or understand what the lower shafts couplings were for.
@@TelecasterRon yeah no we are talking high performance, I actually would never do this again to a daily driver as I stated in other comments, the only issue I had b4 I made it telescope, and none since, was that some times imagine each u of the u joints, yes they do articulate as a double u and in theory is no need in my setup, their is the every now an then when it wants to flex when the u of the u joint is not in the flex position, and binds , and fights the wheel a cunt hair to the left or right, if that makes sense... dual u is for race applications or extreme off road, where your worried about performance and feel and plan to rebuild the thing every few races...... but if i had an actual splined telescoping shaft and not just a slot like i did, as long as lubed i would never have this issue, but who is gonna grease a shaft every week lmaoi
My comment were for people with daily drivers. I understand your situation is different. I see so many on line that replace those shafts with the solid or fixed shaft without the ability for length variation it puzzle me why the sellers and manufactuer aren't getting legal action for the damages they are doing to the jeeps that install particularly the soft steel korean made shafts without the lower telescopic coupling. Anyway it wasn't directed at your vid. Just trying to help those rebuilding their old CJ's and rides that came factory with telescopic shafts. The swivel or universal joints you installed are beefy and look tough. I vavs a CJ sitting out side that has the plastic lower steering columb shaft bearing beat out of it where they installed a korean shaft. They are cheap but they wind up costing the owner hundreds to repair the damage they do. So many after market jeep parts are junk. Plastic Crap. Junk seats and Rigged up crap. Thanks again for your video. I Should probably do one with the damages documented with junk parts so many suppliers are selling. Thanks
Too much camera shaking...i.needed dramamine