How to Dig, Set and Concrete Fence Posts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In the first of my 'Essentials' series I explain the best practices of installing wooden fenceposts and take you through the progress start to finish.
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I put a piece of tape at 24" up from the bottom of my post hole digger handles, quick and easy way to let me know when I am at the correct depth.
I like that idea 👍
Genius.
Another good video with lots of sage advice.
One discussion point is the extent of bitumen paint. Rot tends to start where air/damp earth meet, I think I'd only go down the sides with the paint, otherwise you are making a cup. The "Ham Shanks" have a heat shrink system that seals the sides of the post only and I would try to emulate that with the bitumen. Each to our own.
Have to agree with you, I would only seal the sides with bitumen and let the moisture escape through the bottom
In my experience if you’ve not dried your pressure treated timber whether it be posts or fencing you need them to be outside at least 3 months for the chemicals to evaporate. (so it can accept treatment or paint)
If you slap bitumen paint on the wood chemicals push out and it fails. It crusts and peels. It cant breathe. Seen it on planter posts i did last year.
Just use a good timber paint like dulux opaque or even a clear treatment. Im not a fan of bitumen on timber. Haunching and no soil a must.
Im curious about these durapost, they seem to wobble / flex on videos ive seen, but cant be sure. cheers
I came across a video of yours by accident and I must say that I am a fan. Thanks
Welcome aboard
Thank you. Great videos as always. So informative 👍🏻
Thank you
Brilliant video
For digging post holes in gravelly soils I've had success with using one of those long iron digging bars to loosen up the soil/rocks.
I had to resort to using a small electric SDS percussion DRILL to break through up to 9" wide flint chunks when putting in 30+ posts within school grounds. I couldn't have managed without it!
Much better than usual dumb bodge and scarper DIY. Someone finally using high tech tools like laser etc.
have you look into product called Postsaver.
Postsaver Sleeves prevents fence post rotting at ground level
is it better to use bitumen base paint instead?
or would both work together in tandem.
Wheel BaI dug a 3ft 9 inch deep hole with a diameter of 14 inches. Due to rain, the 3ft 9 inch hole got about 9 inches of water in the hole. Crazy thing is the hole was completely covered prior to the rain but somehow 9 inches of water still got into the hole. I have been waiting for the dirt to soak up all the water in the hole however it doesn't seem to be doing that. After two weeks the water is still there. So my question is what would be the best way to drain the water out of the hole? I thought about just putting a few thick bed sheets in the hole to soak up all the water like a sponge but wasn't sure if that would work efficiently. I then thought about just pouring dry concrete in the hole and mixing it with the water that is already in the hole. What do you suggest? One more question. If I drained all the water out of the hole and the dirt/soil in the hole is still wet and soft is it still okay to mix concrete and pour it into the hole with the dirt/soil already being fully saturated with water? Oh wait....one more question LOL. How many bags of concrete would I need for a 3ft 9 inch deep hole with a diameter of 14 inches? I will be installing a fencing pole with a diameter of about 2 inches. Thanks for your help.
Love your channel and your videos! Would you suggest the same ratio for depth for a pergola?
I'd say "NO", as the posts won't be subjected to the same wind loading as a fence, which catches wind like a SAIL!
What is on the bottom of the fence posts?
Good tutuorial but am I really going to buy all those tools for a couple of fence posts? No, I will just get by.
Yes for DIY is OK, but if you do that as a trade you will be charging astronomical amounts.
I’m sure ITS is great for tools but a £12 surcharge to deliver to N.Ireland is a bit too much in my opinion. Thanks again Brexit ☹️
Still crying over Brexit? 😂 absolute whopper
@@DJFAmenHeavywhy wouldn’t he cry when its given the country fuck all and cost us a shit ton. Read the statistics about how worse off we are before you act like a kn0b
Great idea with the blackjack (so few people seem to do this ) but shouldn't it come above the concrete slightly 🤔
Great video and well explained, you certainly know what you are doing, from my own experience I wouldn't paint the very bottom of the fence, so as to let moisture escape through the grain into the gravel at the base, also it would add years to the fence to seal the top of them with a cap to prevent moisture holding in the grain and moss etc growing and rotting the timber through time.. hope you don't mind my input.
You are spot on with your comment
That post looked a little more wobbly then I’d like 🧐
Yeah. They should be rock solid.
Always like that wooden posts anything over 4ft will just wobble
@@Not-Today-Pal Mate I’ve been digging holes and setting timber posts for years, and mine don’t wobble!! You’re doing something wrong buddy!
@@fireboyspirit3474 using wooden posts is just wrong all together in my opinion they are crap
@@Not-Today-Pal Maybe so, I agree they will always rot. But I do what the customer wants and for some reason us English still like timber fences 👍
Thank you for making it short, sweet, and informative! Getting ready to put up my first ever fence at age 60!
How did it go?
@@PaulPaid very hard to get it up when you are 60
What a cliff hanger! It's like a soap did he finish the fence? Did the concrete explode? So many unanswered questions!
Everytime I've dug a hole for a fence post there have been rocks, old bricks, concrete and some clay tiles with "DANGER" written on them.
Clay tiles with DANGER stamped on them means big power cable underneath - best not to use your pick axe at that point!
I'm sure it was mentioned, but for anyone watching this wanting to dig holes themselves as well, the depth will be highly dependent on where you live. Here in east coast Canada, i have to dig at least 4.5 feet (1400mm) or more to get below the frost line. That's double what you had to do. Otherwise you'll have some pretty crooked posts come spring!
Yeah man. Fuck digging holes. Concrete to annoying to break. I rather install the fence. Or do a different trade.
3 weeks later the fence was built
Hi, I'm wanting to use some reclaimed 150mm x 50mm untreated C16 for fenceposts. I do have plenty available but not sure if it's wise to use for this job. If 2 are screwed together and treated would they be up to the task? Thanks in advance.
Probably a stupid question but…
8ft post sunk 2ft down. Adding a 6ft panel but raising it up 5cm from the ground as recommended would mean the panel is above the height of the post wouldn’t it? Would I just account for this with the gravel to line it up again?
I also much prefsr doing it this way, i don't like postcrete. Also, i do have to wonder if drilling post holes with one of those augers, whilst quicker and easier overall, really produces a big enouw hole to accommodate sufficient concrete?
Much easier with two people. No need to brace the posts, just get one to hold it level and the other chuck in a couple of bags of post mix, then onto the next.
Hello Proper DIY presenter , I discovered your DIY videos by chance and you are a Godsend the way you explain things. I have seen lots of videos from America which are good but the American presenters are so affected . It’s great to see your DIY explanation videos without you saying “ What’s Up Guys “ and other American sayings. I have to see all your videos and forward them to my friends. Cheers Steve
I am an American and 100% agree with the nonsensical greetings with many of the channels. Apparently most of them have to have a gimmick, which is quite irritating. Also, some of the content creators like to babble on and on. I skip over those channels if they haven't gotten to the point within a couple of seconds.
I’ve got 4 posts to put In for a lean top I’m thinking of mixing my own up rather than postcrete how many bags of cement and ballast do u think cheers 😊
This is the clearest video I've seen on properly setting posts. Nice job mate.
Once again, a really precise video on how to set your posts in concrete, thoroughly described and shown from start to finish - really useful for me as I am going to be doing this very task pretty soon for our new driveway gates!
Glad it was helpful!
How did you get on then Davie ??
What about this guy's comments about rotting in concrete at 0:58? th-cam.com/video/pu0UIl6ZKo0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rvpXXG8vE5c2PBUD&t=55
I use hex head long screws all at different angles to anchor the post to the concrete, mine don’t move anything like in the video
Good man using a manual post hole digger. I just used one to dig six 2-ft holes into rock hard clay in my backyard. It stood up amazing I expected it to crack in half after the first hole
Try using old engine oil instead of bituminous paint!
You can do - I don't have any!
@@ProperDIY a lot of fencers years ago used to burn (scorch) the surface of the bottom of the posts either in a bonfire or using a blow torch to stop them rotting. I have done the same myself with good results.
Absolutely no intention of doing any DIY but this is my favourite channel on TH-cam. Likeable presenter, great editing, great production. I love the way you find solutions to problems. Watched all your videos, just wish there were more.
You will so find yourself wanting to give things ago soon enough!
Ah go on, away and get yourself a few tools and you'll be sorting out problems before your know if.
You must be either unable to do diy or in no need of it... A customer!!!
@@kraptastic333 ..or minted!
If I cut the top off the post to make shorter what should I use to seal the wood where it's been cut? Or do I not need to?
Great video, followed it and set a 4x4 post for a garden gate, all good so far and the post hasn't moved an inch. However, after a few months the post has bowed slightly near the top. Other than planing the bow out, how could I straight it?
I had the same with my posts some have twisted towards the top quite significantly i don't think it can be rectified. In hindsight i would not put bitumen on the base of the post . I also used bitumen sleeves at soil level.
Brilliant video.... done a few fences and always struggled digging the holes with a cheap fencing spade... usually holes dug too wide and loads of concrete in... worked so far, touch wood.... if I do it again though I think I'll invest in a decent quality trench spade and post hole digger.
Good work again, thanks for sharing!
Thank you
What make of drainage shovel and post hole digger are those please?
For extra post protection its better to add DPC / plastic 16 micron wrapped neatly around the base of the post before concrete placement.
Yes, short term, but if any water ever sneaks inside the dpc, perhaps seeping down the post, it is trapped there forever and will rot the post. I think it’s better to have any such water leech away, as shown here.
I've been watching your channel for a few years, your work is truly proper. I just viewed "How to dig, set and concrete fence posts" ( 2 years ago). Are your methods of installation still the same? Have you tweaked your process with any new product? It's a wide open question, I suppose a yes or no will suffice. Thanks in advance! Rob, Tampa Bay, Florida
Really helpful this so thank you.. Can you advise though i’ve to put 3 fence posts in, as you did, in a straight line etc but there’s no wall or anything to go off eg to get number 1 post right, so the rest can follow on! How do i get this right? Lay a string line and fix ( concrete ) that first post first, let the concrete go off and then dig and fit the others? Thanks… NOODLES…
Was the wobble on the post at the end normal?
Yes, wood bends
this one looks quicker and than the way I was taught back in the 80's , I remember putting 100's of post's in while on a council run YTS - back then wooden posts always had to have plenty of 9 inch nails knocked in around the base of the posts and the mix had to go in semi-dry with carefully placed large stones trapping the nails, a wet mix to result in the wrath of the supervisor - and I remember it well! - there was no ballast back then but the mix was stronger than the usual 247 cement sand chippings mix - if I hadn't seen this I would be putting the post the way I was shown nearly 40 year ago - thanks
Sounds like a different strategy - I bet they don't do it now!
I was told to put 9” nails in the posts to stop the local toe rags pulling them out, and believe me I’ve seen posts nicked! Unbelievable 😂
Ah - that would explain why I've just had to remove two post foundations to rotted posts that also had 6" nails embedded in the concrete.
Sadly, no-one thought to use DPM paint on those, otherwise they might not have rotted!🙂
Did that post move at the end?
youtube ads are frikkin ridiculous
You shouldn't paint black jack on the bottom of the post as your trapping water in which wi make it rot quicker. Always leave the bottom to allow water to escape from inside thw post
I appreciate your tips, advice and explaining both the pros & cons of how to achieve a good result.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That you so much for sharing, Start this Job on Sunday & had yet to find a clear easy to follow non patronising guide, :)
Hi...A great video and very informative. I have a couple of questions if that's ok.
I am about to fix seven fence panels with 100mm posts, which I want to be about 1.8m tall. I have a Draper 150mm auger, (cuts through like butter) but I don't think the amount of concrete around the post will be adequate. It is suggested that the hole needs to be 600 deep and 3 times the width of the post. So 300mm wide. What are your thoughts on post hole measurements? (The ground is soil then sand after about 400mm.
We love your house!👍 Please could you tell me the colour of the render/paint? We are are having new grey windows and synthetic render, which come in loads of colours.
Thanks
Hiya
What is the best way to get old posts out of the ground please?
thanks in advance, love the videos, keep up the good work.
cheers Andy
On the subject of concrete vs. Postfix, I've used ballast and postfix pre-mixed 50/50 when putting in 30+ posts in school grounds due to the limited time available during out-of-hours periods. It was more expensive but enabled work to progress quicker. This still allowed haunching of the top of the mix above ground level.
As an aside, I took the Damp Proof Membrane 2" above that to ensure protection against decay.
Glad to see you used gravel under the too. 👍
As an aside
Can I paint the whole post with that paint
I use used engine oil on all external wood
A couple of years ago I spent 4 hours trying to get an old wooden post out. They obviously had a lot of concrete left over and "got rid of it" around my fence post. Even with a breaker, a sledgehammer, and a pick axe it wouldn't give up! It needed me and my neighbour to lift the huge piece of concrete it was set into🤣
That's not fun
Just had same this weekend ! at least nice and sunny
Why does everyone down under use millimeters instead of centimeters ?
Because in professional construction and civil engineering that is the universal standard. And the UK isn't 'down under'!
@@ProperDIY I am not saying uk is down under I am simply saying they use it the most. Also I didn't realize engineers build fences
"it's really your choice" - nah, I think I'll just follow the advice of a structural engineer tbh 🙂
I'm flattered!
I'm fatter
Absolutely, this man ( Stuart ) is pure gold 👍
I thought on new builds or runs of plastic pipes you had to run a tracer cable along the run of plastic pipes, so that you could trace them?
Amy plans to do a concrete shed base or similar any time pal? I'd love to see your process for that.
Yes - coming up soon - 2.4m x 4.5m'ish timber shed with a concrete base.
Congratulations on your channel and videos. You are really a pro! I've become addicted to your videos, have learned loads!
Buy this, buy that🙄
You can’t use those digging tools in Scotland let me tell ya! 😂
I don’t disagree but I prefer post -crete. It’s easy enough to mix up some rapid to finish the last 10” including bevel if need be, did this on my gate post. I remember once hitting a slab of sandstone whilst digging the last hole for concrete post, seeing it was only about 100mm from the depth I just cut the post, was a Friday after all 😎
That middle post on the trestle looked a bit wonky, nowt worse. 🤙🏻
Here’s a gate I just built on an old crooked wall garden wall opening.
th-cam.com/video/PX63Tscr3jc/w-d-xo.html
Loving this content! I’d love to see a whole fence series from you
Thank you. On its way!
What is the concrete mix for the bevel at the top? Looks like it’s sand and cement... 3:1 perhaps? Thanks.
It is the same mix as I used around the post - 6:1 ballast cement
great channel do tell people to treat treated fence posts when they cut them to get proper life out of them
I'll be lookinf into some of te tools on show mate. Tha ks for the heads up
if I was to wait for 24 hours fir concrete to set before erecting panels the job would cost a fortune. Usually, fence posts are inserted as the line progresses and panels erected.
Your method is fine if you are taking your time but I can't see a customer paying for concrete to dry>I hate to think how many fences I have erected over the years and I never had a callback.
But a good explanation.
Well this channel is aimed at the DIY'er who has time, isn't making money out of the job and doesn't want to spend a fortune on Postcrete.
What did you treat the posts with to prevent rottng over the years
First time I've seen any videos using bitumen paint - nice one!
Your fence looks so nice. Thanks for explaining all the details. One thing I didn't get was the rocks at the bottom of the hole for drainage. Given you will pour concrete in the hole, won't it fill the gaps between the rocks and cancel the drainage benefits?
No it won't as long as the mix isn't too sloppy!🙂
0:57 what is this reference point? How does it refer back to the post
I used a 150mm diameter hand auger to drill out the hole - really easy (and much better than a powered one that didn't work). I've lent my augur to the local golf course who are using it to fit new tee markers!
Hi Stuart, am literally going doing fence posts this weekend and the bitumen paint was a step I forgot about. Cheers.
You can also use Postsaver, so you don't have to wait around for the bitumen paint to dry www.postsaver.com/
No problem. Buy a small tin from Toolstation - it goes a long way but worth the effort for extra protection
My fence posts are 20 year old and still solid. I wouldn’t swing on them mind, ha. They most definitely weren’t treated on site. Personally if it’s encased in concrete its dry enough for me. The haunching around the base is more a must, posts are generally well treated before sale, the tops usually rot quicker than the bases due to treatment neglect or being left square cut. Water wins in the end. More wine vicar 🍷
Thanks for the link.
Interesting that it shows posts driven into virgin ground but stones in the soil could breach the protection so I'd only use when concreting. Still not sure whether the additional expence over hand-applied BLACKJACK DPM is warranted though unless max speed is what you're after.
Any particular sized gravel for the bottom of the hole? Pea gravel or larger 10mm/20mm?
No particular size but needs to be able to drain. I used 10/20mm
I must say the way you have done your posts compared to mine. I doubt there will will be much difference in amount of years it lasts. Sealing the posts won't make a difference water will still get in its just a fad. I do like your videos. And subscribed. Very nice neat holes tho 👌
Thank you
What are your views on postcrete? I've used it for a run of concrete posts as it gives you and "instant" fix.
@@andymerrett Wasn't concentrating! Thanks
Hi. Your vids are excellent. Your work is excellent to. Love it. Very well done. Brilliant stuff. Take care. 👍👌🙏
Thank you very much
You shouldnt paint the base of the post with bitumen paint.
Whyyyy
It cant drain
@@stuartgraham4961 thank you
This was super helpful, thank you.
My neighbour had some new fencing put in and the guys used expanding foam instead of concrete. The guys were from a legit fencing company, the fence looks perfect and 3 years on those posts are rock solid
I've seen this used to fill around 'Z' posts for central reserve safety fencing, where the post is fixed within a pre-installed lined concrete socket. I always wondered how durable the foam would be. Thanks for this interesting comment!
You could have used chalk to extend the line marking onto the slab. Probably not necessary here but a useful option when working close to existing slabs etc.
Yes can do
Thank you - great practical tips!
Yet another great video. The bitumen paint actually seem an obvious step...... But only now you've said it!
More tips to remember and refer to when takin on a task.
Cheers Stuart
Glad it was helpful!
Any thoughts on using a petrol auger?
can the bituminous paint be applied to wet posts, ie straight form the timber yard, or do they need to be dry?
The posts I get from the timber yard generally have just been treated so would be too wet to take any paint. These posts I have had stored for around 4-6 weeks and took the paint fine.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
I always prefer the pre mixed stuff but that’s because it’s easier … have you any thoughts on the foam based post mix stuff?
I used a 50/50 mix of ballast and postcrete for speed and reduced cost. -premixed in a barrow before using it like pure postcrete worked very well, giving the benefits of both materials.
I have a question: I dug 32 inch (813 mm) holes and filled them 1/2 way with wet-mix concrete. It has dried, but now I think it best to fill the holes all the way up above the soil line and slope the concrete down away from the post for drainage as shown in this video. What is the group's thoughts on putting wet concrete on dry concrete which would be now above the freezing level. Could or would this harm the posts or cause them the heave up when the ground freezes? Thanks for any help on this.
Can’t see any harm in doing that buddy 👍 If youve done it, how did it go ??
@@thedj5914 I did it… And it worked out fine this winter. We had a lot of freezing weather and nothing heaved.
Awesome level of detail and built to last 😊
Thanks very helpful nice mix 👍👨🏻🏭
My pleasure!
Great video Stuart, I'll have a look at the ITS website now, 👍
Thanks
Not often I fully watch a video like this, but it's really informative and straight to every point. Thank you!
Thanks
can of paint get real
Great vid should you have angled some screws in the post before concrete👍🍺
Why?
To make the connection between post and concrete even better .
Great clear instructions, well presented. Good job from Dingle, Ireland
Thank you very much
Another really well presented video, thanks. Very professional, clear and easy to follow. I'll add my name to the list of interested viewers for the concrete shed base.
Thank you - she'd and concrete base coming!
Thank you
Nice post.
Good video
Great!