Peavey Classic / Delta Series Common Issues (Pt. 1 - Getting Started)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- Here we dive into the construction methods and design philosophy of this ubiquitous series of amps from Peavey. Then in part 2, we'll go over the mods and final testing to ensure this amp can be reliable in the long term.
Hey Brad, I think this vid is my intro to your channel. Great video! You just kinda held my hand through doing the exact same thing w/ the exact same amp. Budding wannabe repair aging punk musician music business major wanting to become proficient at more than just recapping old Fenders and Marshalls. Cheers!
You’re great company mate. I appreciate you sharing your work and experience.
Thanks for watching, mate.
The main reason for this channel is a joint for cool cats to hang out.
I commented on the other vid, but Brad deserved TH-cam engagement. These amps are seagulls at the beach, but I really do enjoy pushing the boost button in, and cranking the clean channel. Absolutely angry and mean. Super thick, driven tone and actually doesn’t compress like the second channel, at all. Still has a bit of that “peavey” tone ceiling, but I have gotten some lovely results from my 210 Delta Blues. I would like to convince my tech to revise the circuit for some longevity, because as many may realize, these are made to save some cash.
I bought a DB in 1994. Modded with JJ’s and a celestion fullback. It’s simply amazing. Highly recommend this mod
I have one of these. I don't use it much, but I keep it because I love the sound. This video makes me want to offload it immediately. Seems like a case of "Not if... but when". It gets really hot too, areas of that chrome front panel can be super hot to the touch after playing for 20mins or so.
Дякую за відео! Цікавий досвід! Я так розумію коли ламповий підсилювач на друкованих платах, то завжди чекатиме куча сюрпризів! 😁😅🙂
PVindeedlydoodly Well made in New Zealand?? 🤔 😅❤ Phenomenally met every single minute of clips. Embodying the way to be with beautiful quality of life’s contents. With proper care of delivering the detes. 🌟👏👌🤝
No doubt there’s definitely no time for losers around here, you sir are THEE CHAMPION 🏆 Thanks mate
Great video, very useful, I hat to repair one those and the way to take off the board helped me. Thanks.
The one I repaired had bat welding on the base of the support of one of the el84 valve. ... should not be so but it happens.
Great stuff Brad. Are you near Adelaide? Wondering if you know my pals "Kings & Associates"?
Question: I have this amp, have always liked it, but had an issue in the power tube section. The tubes out of nowhere no longer had heater voltage. I opened it only to find the hot mess you described. I decided to completely overhaul the caps and suspect resistors given the nature of the split PCB's. The amp is now nearing thirty years old and I did not want to have to open this thing up again if I could help it. I reflowed the solder joints on the jumper wires connecting the boards and replaced any that were suspect, flashed it up on the bench and had everything running nice and quiet. Installed it back in the cabinet, and no heater on the four new EL84's again. I understand the heater voltage is in series on these things (😠), and so short of changing the PT sockets as I have a couple of sets of tubes in this already, removed the chassis again and did my best to improve terminal contact. Flashed it up, rechecked the jumpers, no issues with voltage on the bench. Re-installed it in the chassis, same thing. Then I started thinking the actual power cables were flexing when the chassis is installed and becoming intermittent perhaps due to age, but nope. Any ideas? Thanks in advance from Nova Scotia, Canada!
My Delta blues has just had these exact mods. It is fantastic value once it is upgraded. The stock speakers are decent too.
Picked up a DB 1x15 at the local thrift store for $75 usa.
Amp works great, but it's obvious it was gigged quite often.
Sounds great, the normal channel is really loud.
The gain channel needs to be turned up more relative to the normal channel. I'm sure the amp needs new tubes.
TIP: The hot melt glue globs will come off very easy by applying a few drops of 91% Isopropyl alcohol as a "release agent" without heating the board.
I love Your video. and beautiful new board You laid out ! ! ! YES !!! to Top Load Tele's tip. It sure does work. HOT MELT glue ceases to stick with drops of Isopropanol. glue comes off in one piece.
My first vid of yours. Enjoyed it! Subscribed!
Thanks mate!
Share it around if you have any nerdy mates that might be interested.
Just found your channel..! Learning myself...Cool video, I've subscribed..Top work and tech tips..Ed ..uk.😀
Hi, good for you fixing these monstrosities! Lol! Mind sharing what desolder and hot air tool you have there?
The crack at the bottom of tube mostly cause by lousy tube socket. where ceramic cut the glass. when tube getting hot the glass crack.
Why do smaller inexpensive amps use EL 84s and run them so hot? Is it because they use less power and so need a smaller transformer? Do they run the bias hot to make up for the lower output or am I totally not understanding it? Great video as always
I'm still trying to understand why they do that too, mate.
All I can surmise is that they are straight-up copying Vox output stages from the 60's, when valves were a lot more resilient.
Nice board bro, pretty
Well done Brad!
05:27 so glad having not purchased back_when. Seeing the cursed design. Loved tone but @ who's detriment?✝️
Did you print anymore of those boards and would you ship to the uk or recommend somewhere I can get one?
I've got one left which I'm keeping. I'd offer them for sale but there's no way in this universe I want to deal with all of the inevitable support question requests.
Owned a classic 30 combo, USA, for nearly 20 years.
It's never gone wrong or needed new valves.
Bought a Valveking 20 Mh , made in China.
Hardly used it and a tube indicator light went red.
New valves fitted by a friend who knew what he was doing.
Sadly he's passed away .
After a few hours of playing, light goes red, then other goes red.
I'm not tech minded and don't know what to do.
New Valves or adjust bias ? How ?
Feel like binning this amp now as I'm just so frustrated.
Any advice most welcome !
If you're not tech-minded, I'd suggest taking it to someone who is, or selling it as non-working if money is an issue.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately my friend who knows about these things passed away and at £40 an hour for someone who charges , it's just too much money to spend on such an unreliable amp .I doubt I'd get much for it as it is.
I may take my frustration out on it with a large axe. and never buy Peavey again.
Nice going on your own board! Why was the ground plane a bad idea?
Because it can lead to stray capacitance, possibly effecting the top-end detail.
Have you completed the Peavey 30 board, for sale, I have a clasic 30 head, Clasic 30 combo and a Delta Blues,
Not yet, mate. The PCB is populated, but I already have design revisions in mind and have been too busy trying to keep on top of the repair jobs to progress. Stay posted.
@@BradsGuitarGarage thank you for getting back to me, I'll be looking for 3. add in doing all new tube sockets, when you get back to it
I love my delta blues I hope they last I run 2 one 2-10 one 15. I know most will get a good laugh at this but I’ve even tried to get someone to do a point to point build is the circuit for me. With better components of course so far no takers.
Do you or anyone you know makin replacement boards for Marshalls . TSL ?
Marshall still makes 'em, mate.
They know it's still a problem, and really, it should have been a complete recall of the JCM2000 series.
Get them from CE Distribution or the arts department of your local Marshall distributor.
For the Classic 30 the price point was $299 US dollars.
Okay, can you go back and record the entire video with that revised for me pleeeeeease?
In hindsight, I think I heard the original price in AU$, taking into account inflation was around the $1k mark, but without splitting hairs, I'm sure you understand my point. Can't be arsed researching a moot point.
Your PC board solution is way cool.
Ain’t $1000 Aussie bucks the same as $299 US.?
Cool videos again thx man.
Creepage distance?
That's the one! I can never remember terminology when the camera is rolling.
I called it a bloody EL34 in the opening scene too. I was looking at the label at the time!
@@BradsGuitarGarage It happens to all of us. Love the video BTW.
I have a Peavey MX VTX on my bench right now. It has 4 x 6L6s but absolutely everything else is solid state. It also only has 1 screen grid resistor for each pair of output tubes. I got this one for 10 because it flat out did not work.... Someone had actually cut the wires to and from the effects loop- which completely cuts the signal from the preamp section to the power amp 🙄🙄💩💩 Mine's laid out a bit better, the boards are all flat on the chassis, so a hell of a lot easier to get out and work on. I'll have to pull the tube board to see how bad the underside is. Also not a fan of that hot glue- mine has wires hot glued to the main filter caps, which are gooped all the way to one of the board connectors. Yay...
Cut the FX loop? That's hilarious! Maybe the previous owner didn't want to pay the bench fee. Lol.
@@BradsGuitarGarage they stole the connector for the foot pedal, just went ahead and cut the effects loop while they were at it. The wires were snipped off right where other stuff crossed, so it took a bit to find..... WTF? Why am I getting absolutely zero signal??? 🤣🤣
If they knew that thing would last 30 years, they would have built it cheaper.
You lost me at EL34.
Nope
Sorry, what?
Did I misspeak?