Most people would do this experiment and try to find ways to support their existing biases. I appreciate it when someone is capable of changing their thinking when exposed to new evidence.
The thoroughness and thoughtfulness of your videos is amazing. Just found you tonight and I’m so grateful! Learned more in 20 minutes than I did after hours of googling. Thank you thank you!
I only dip dye now because of your previous results with Pro dye. You've now opened up more possibilities because I have shyed away from water based dyes because of your recommendations . Thanks for the side by side demo my friend. Bob in CT
Thank you very much for this helpful video. I could decide what to use to dye. I like the non consistent dyed look of waterbased color done with dauber. Do you know if I also can use this to overdye from medium to darker brown? Why not!?
I’ve been needing this comparison soooo bad, thank you, Chuck! I know it shouldn’t matter, but the leather dye/water based dye is so much more cheaper, and I just don’t have a lot to spare for my hobby. (Obviously, if I were making a living out of this, I’d prioritize quality) I wanted to know the difference in quality as compared to the gap in prices, and now I have it... While if I strike it rich, of course I’ll go for pro dye in dip dying quantity, but for now.. I’ll just stick with the paintbrush/dauber/sponge dyeing technique and the small bottles the leather dyes come in - I’m not losing thaaaat much.
Just use the yellow pro dye, it looked good until i added the top coat. Im using fiebings tan kote. It would get a orangish tint and streaks. Any suggestions please
At 6:00, it seems like that the saddle tan regular leather dye has a more aged, antique leather look whereas saddle tan pro has a more consistent look. I kinda like the aged antiqued look. I assume it is due to that regular dye doesn’t not penetrate as well.
Nice video The little knowledge I have that dyes are made from bases and pigments . but what eludes me is the names of the base and pigments used to producing it before the thinning down takes place
! Startled me there Chuck! Turning up just as I'd run out of other subscriptions to watch. Tells me lots of what I need to know. That'll do me for today's lesson 😉
On most of my builds, I've been using a water-based dye (Eco-Flow), mostly due to easier clean up, but I definitely get better results with Pro-dye for black. All that is on veg-tan. I have been picking up upholstery sides and hides in a light grey and using them for garmenting. The finish of the upholstery leather has necessitated using Pro-dye, as the water-based dyes simply rub off due to the finish. Makes sense, as you wouldn't want casual stains to take on a leather couch.
Many years ago, I did tests on many different kinds of dyes and settled on the Pro-Dye. I then tested a bunch a sealers, and I didn't like the high gloss plastic kind like Roselene, and ended up settling on Eco-Flo Satin Shene. Do you have any preference for sealers that are low gloss and let the leather feel like leather instead of a coating of plastic is on top? Thanks.
I just got some of the pro dye. I noticed it is alcohol based, but on a previous video I watched you mentioned that it wasn't good to use the alcohol based dyes. So which is it? I'm a little confused.
Supposedly, the alcohol based version, is the most popular option for the general value, ease of use,and performance of the stuff itself. The dye suspension in alcohol has the best ability to penetrate, and hold. The cons however, is that the alcohol dries the leather. Easily remedied with some conditioner. The "pro" version, was always oil based in the past, and "chemically" is better for the leather itself and easier to apply. The main advantage is the quality of the finish. When dip dying, that's irrelevant anyway. Idk if they changed the formula, but short version is.... 90% of stuff isn't worth the cost of oil based. For the other top 10% of your projects where quality is the most important thing, and cost is 2nd, splurge for the oil and finish it to perfection. My 2 cents.
Hi, Pali from Slovakia here, Awesome concise videos in Leather Element series, great time/content ratio! Garment + Ecology/Health&Safety questions: 1. Let's say ecological aspect is quite important to me. I'd choose veg tan leather naturally (as opposed to chrome). Did you encounter leather vendors able to offer material from sustainably farmed cattle or sustainably hunted deer, already? Making a case or a pouch is straightforward. Veg tan is hard after it dries up. I color it, dry it, apply top balms, stitch/rivet it together. Done. But ... 2. I really love rather smooth/shiny chestnut, honey brown or rusty brown colored leather. (Who doesn't? :D ) I would be particularly interested in making garments or accessories in those shades. Can I avoid chrome at all? Can I make it myself from thinner sorts of veg tan leather, by working in oils by hand, to soften it? Is it individual-scale project? I saw video on "hardening leather", but not yet on softening veg tan (natural processed) leather. :) 3. I saw a lot of various videos on bark tanning techniques - and what surprised me that aside of the ubiquitous white-ish veg tan leather color, they show a whole variety of colors/looks of hides, also presenting them as "veg tan" too. Is it true, i.e. doable just by veg tanning? Or are those rather Veg tan + Oils worked in the material? From other side: is oil tan a different "tanning from the scratch" technique, or is it actually just a veg tan + oils worked in? 4. And now the health&safety part: would you recommend pick of dyes+finishes/balms/tops that are natural (ecological) enough and safe for skin = to wear? Occasionally or day-long? Would you recommend/prefer to wear leather garment with rough underside touching the skin, or the soft/glossy/top/grain side touching the skin (perhaps rather two leather sheaths stitched together to give the inside & top the same "feel")? 5. Finally, how to pick skin-safe metallic parts (rivets, buckets, rings ...) - is there some special naming for those? (No nickel, no ...) Thanks a lot.
i want to dye cowboy boots. Have had them for years, had them resouled and healed but the leather needs help. i am thinking Red or Blue. any suggestions
Hi Chuck, I have a dye question for you. I made a collar for my dog out of Weaver Select 9 oz veg tan. I used red pro dye and leather balm. After it was done I had a beautiful red color. Its been a few months now, and the red color is fading significantly. The natural color of the veg tan is showing through. I took it off of her cleaned it with Fiebing's saddle soap, and reapplied leather balm, but it didn't help much. What did I do wrong, and how do I fix it? The collar is still in great shape except for the color fade.
A good test Chuck, I use water based for some projects and pro dye for others, and with the water based dyes there’s absolutely no rub off or bleed even when wet moulding a holster.
Understood that you pour the dye back into the bottle using a funnel when done. Awesome. How do you clean up the container that held the dye? Is it safe to wash down the drain or is it better to wipe it out with a paper towel and throw away the towel?
I have a full grain leather cowhide I purchased recently to refinish an Aames chair. Unfortunately what showed up is much more of a mid to light grey than what the images online showed, which is much more of a darker charcoal grey (which is what I want). So I need to re-dye the entire hide. I assume I need to fully immerse it or maybe spray on the dye and rub it in. I'd just return it if possible but I can't. Any help here (from anyone) is greatly appreciated!
I have a question about a video series you posted a year ago. You did a 7 chapter series on making a leather journal cover (which I have thoroughly enjoyed and been watching over and over trying to make my own by the way). In chapter four I think it is you glue the panels two the main body to punch the holes for the stitching before you dye the leather. At the end of the video you make a quick comment about popping the panels back off in order to dye them in the next chapter. My question is, do you have any tips on how to separate the pieces without marking up or ruining the leather?
Very informative, thank you! Other than the results, are there advantages with going with one over the other? Toxicity, long term preservation of the leather, etc.
West Coast laws are getting to the point where we can't use Pro Dye, only water based, especially in California. But that is creeping up here to Oregon as well. Have heard some complaints about the alcohol and oil based cracking and drying out the leather, but haven't researched that enough tongive a definitive answer.
Please help me figure out how to dye pro dye over a low voc dye and if it’s low voc bc it’s the leather I use and all of the sudden it’s not p65 warning on the label and it looks dead?
Hey Chuck, Awesome video. Very informative. I bought a chukka boot with a beeswax finish. I want to change the color to something darker maybe like a dark brown or chocolate brown. Is there anyway to change the colour or am I stuck with the current finish because the beeswax will prevent me from dying it?
I have a faded pair of suede boots that I'd like to refresh the color on; a turquoise. However, I can't find a turquoise suede dye, and am wondering if you have a brand suggestion and/or color-mixing formula to get a good turquoise. I'd really like for them to be deeply vibrant.
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, I prefer the pro dye 2 Chuck, I sometimes in my handmade items use different ways instead of dipping, a rag, papper towel, and here's one 4 you an electric toothbrush, try it U will be surprised, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
could you please point me to a glue that can hold two pieces of leather together after dipping them in the oil based pro dye, wiping it and lettin it cure for a few days? I didn´t find any that would hold the edges of a wallet good enough to stand normal use and not split on the edges. I score the surfaces pretty deep, but i noticed the oil seeps back to the new surface and after an hour or so the surface again looks oily, and the glue (contact cement) bascially lets go. Thank you for any bit of help :)
@@kubeek OLD LEATHER SMITH here, before I can answer you I would like complete information, tell me from start 2 finish what U do. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
I’m working on by first project for a friend. Getting ready for dying. I think I’m leaving toward pro because of penetration and the richer color after leather balm.
Stiff leather is the bane of my leather dying process. I just cannot seem to get the leather back to supple. I have tried: Dye, then Neatsfoot. Dye, then Aussie. Dye then Mink oil. My veg tanned leather seems to be very stiff with water based dyes.
Hey darlin I was gonna do some distressed leather stuff, so I kinda want inconsistency...do you think that water based would be a better bet? I want to make some stuff look like "Freebird" boots look. If you havent ever seen em, check em out. Theyre super cool. Thank u for this!
I'm really hesitant to get into dyes because of the different types and needing to seal them. I have found I like vinagaroon and the deep black I get from it. Could you do a leather element on that one day?
I don’t can find in your shop corner puncher from Master Tools!!! WHY??? Please please make same ❣️ I use the corner & the half round Puncher EVERYDAY & I love the quality from the master tool collection , so I REALLY NEED THE CORNER-puncher (1/4 round puncher) !!! Or tell me please what’s the best option! Leathercraft4live
He has a video about that if you search his channel. Unless you just happen to have a ton of money to invest though I'd suggest you buy a cheap starter kit off amazon for 30-100 bucks, you'll spend nearly that much on each tool with weaver. Most of the tools in the starter kits are serviceable enough to get you started and figure out if you want to stick with the trade or not. Go ahead and sink some good money into a stitch groover, pricking irons, and edge bevelers as those tend to suck in the kits. Later on when you decide you're sticking with the hobby you can start to replace the other tools in your kit with the more expensive ones like weaver sells, but you'd quickly run into a thousand bucks investment in a beginner to moderate leatherworkers kit from any of the well known supply companys, and there's nothing wrong with paying good money for good tools, but leatherworking tools are very overpriced and expensive and there's no reason to spend that kind of money just to try it out. I guess they're as exensive as they are because a well made tool is something you'll only need to buy a couple times in a lifetime, I'd spend a hundred on a well made stitch groover as those things need to be precise to work right, but I'll probably never buy a $300 mallet.
I've been watching this channel while playing around with leather making saddles for my breyer models. I've found that the water based dye (I was using eco-flo leather dye) makes the thin pieces incredibly stiff in a way that i cant work out with leather balm. unfortunately it's difficult to get my hands on pro dye in california. I might have to find a different method of dyeing.
Hi there, You can work the leather with your hands to help remove some of the stiffness. Just roll it lightly or bend it back a forth without a lot of force or pressure and you should be able to work out some of the stiffness.
couple questions. First, I am looking for a DIY dye. I like to go old school and natural on products. Vinegaroon looks like a great black dye option. I have also seen a birch tar conditioner that looked nice. Anyway I am on the search for two basic things. DIY food safe leather dye. and DIY foodsafe leather conditioner. I have a large batch of walnut husk dye going that I plan to use as a wood stain. I think I might try it out on a leather belt as well. It is water based, I suppose I could repeat the process next year and sub in some alcohol or oil to try to get an oil based walnut dye. Has anyone messed around with walnut husk on leather? Im concerned about making it too brittle. For the conditioner/balm I am thinking about going with beeswax and another oil. Probably coconut as I have it on hand. Would be cook to do it with walnut oil to keep the theme going. Anyone have experience with this more random style of dying leather? Oh please don't suggest store bought dyes and keep everything food safe if possible. The less harmful ingredients the better as many of my products are multiuse and handled frequently. Some will directly contact food, its almost certain that all will indirectly contact food at some point. They are woodsman, hunter, fisher, bushcraft, whatever you want to call it items.
in my opinion, since I've only used water based ever since I started working with leather, and also because here in Pakistan only water based dyes are available, black works the best and comes out beautifully if dip dyed, just like you showed. although, the other colors are a bit of a disappointment to be honest. they dont get absorbed properly, and have alot of surface rub off.
Hi! I am looking into dying some rawhide conga drum heads/skins to black and dark brown colors. Can you please tell me your recommendations on the steps on how to go about doing this and what type of dye that you recommend? I've seen it done using fabric dyes by soaking them in a bucket, but thinking by using a leather dye would keep them from fading and rubbing/wearing off when playing the drums? Thank you, Ponch
Hi there, see if this thread has any useful information for you! We don't have a lot of experience with this but there are some good tips in the link below: www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=33897.0
Once you dip dye, do you toss out the dye that isn't used or put it back in the bottle? Unfortunately, I can't get the Pro dye in California so stretching the dye as far as possible is my concern. I've also been told to treat the leather with an oil before using the water dye, is that required? Question on to coat, I'm using Rosolene and I find it sometimes gets streaky, is leather balm recommended instead? Can you saddle soap on top of the top coat or will that destroy it?
Hi Justin, I pour the unused dye back into the bottle using a funnel and it can be used again, so , no waste on that end. Using oil before dyeing is really something I would recommend testing out for yourself and see if you like it. A lot of people say this will help the dye absorb better, but I have never personally done this so maybe test a scrap piece of leather and see which one you like best. If you do apply oil first, make sure it's a light coat. On the top coat, if you're getting streaks, try dabbing it on with some shearling, instead of applying it in strokes. You can also thin it down if needed. If you're still having trouble then, yes, maybe try a different top coat but resolene should work just fine. I wouldn't apply saddle soap on top of the top coat unless it's just on the edges of the leather to slick them. Or if the product has been uses for a while and needs cleaned, then you could use some saddle soap but leather will get a natural patina from use that you don't want to try and clean off. Hope that helps!
Hi, I have a question. Suppose you have a piece of leather nicely cut in a curve - say a 'C' shaped piece. Except you find it a tad too big. What's a good way to trim 1-2mm off a curved edge, without basically recutting it and making a complete mess of what was originally a nice edge? Thanks, Epi
Hi Rick, We recommend the baking method for hardening leather. Dye and top coat after hardening. Her is a video on hardening in the oven: th-cam.com/video/hwGW_qwpxYs/w-d-xo.html
I have an old (expensive) briefcase that is very splotchy looking with what looks like some watermarks. It is still strong and otherwise in good condition. Can I bring it back to life?
Hi Suzie, Before resorting to re-dyeing or anything, we would try cleaning it with a good leather cleaner like Bickmore or Leather Therapy. And then condition with something like Smith's Leather Balm or Aussie Leather Conditioner. That should help bring the color back and help even out the spots but if not you can use a deglazer to remove the top coat, re-dye and apply a top coat. I would try cleaning and conditioning first before re-dyeing though.
Hi, Chuck! In one of the comments writes that after applying an oil-based dye, the top is additionally sealed with alcohol. Will this be a problem and will it prevent the paint from smearing and spilling. Or if added directly to the paint will it affect its saturation. Thank you.
Hi there, I'm not sure I understand your question completely, but, after dyeing the leather you will want to seal it with a top coat. Something like FIebing's Leather Balm, Resolene, or RTC will work but any type of sealing top coat for leather will work great. The dye will not smear but if you have paint on the leather you will want to add the top coat by dabbing, not wiping. You can also apply it with an airbrush.
Leather work and shoe repair shops were a casualty of the modern disposable age. As a result there are very few shops left and it’s really expensive. I brought boots to be re-soled last year and it was almost $100! I don’t feel like he was over charging me, he has a store in what’s become a high rent area and a lot less customers then he used to; I’m surprised he’s still in business! They’re expensive boots made of high quality leather so I had it done. Nowadays any shoe or boot that costs less than $100 (base price not sales) are pleather, and quality leather costs over $200, but for most shoes and boots today it doesn’t make sense to spend that much money to repair shoes.
If you have health concerns about breathing the the toxic smell from the pro dyes, then what mask will block out that smell? What element is putting out that smell? It can help me choose appropriate mask. The more heavier the filter I would need the more obtrusive the mask is but what ever is necessary to protect our health.
Hi Viktor, I really don't have a good answer for you on this besides just working the leather with your hands a bit after the dye has dried. Use and wear will soften it as well.
Is the leather bomb the Same as the sheen? And I was told that I should apply the sheen on both sides of the leather..is this accurate? Oh and what if you apply oil to the leather before using water base dye, can that maybe stop it from stiffing? Thanks again.
Hi there, They are both waxy top coats but they are a bit different in the fact that one is aerosol and one needs to be applied by hand and then buffed so I would recommend experimenting to see which one you prefer, personally, for your style of leatherwork. If the back of the project is dyed, then, yes I would recommend adding the top coat to both front and back.
maybe not a leather element question per say but i am curtious "is it ethical to use a bought template to make projects for sale? for example if you were to buy a template to make a certain style of wallet to sell, would that be considered plagiarism/copyright? or do you have to draw up your own pattern to use for sale? many people may dance right over this topic but i dont want wrong another crafter in any way even if it was unintentionally
Hi Joe, If the template is for sale and you paid for it, then there shouldn't be any copyright issues. Unless there is fine print saying the template can't be used for making and reselling.
The issue I have with the water colours is that they can bleed if the leather ever gets caught in the rain. Made a belt for someone a few years ago and the purple colour bled onto their pants when they got caught in a sudden shower. Purple bleed all down their light tan pants. It's for this reason I stick to pro dye only.
What kind of prep work did you do, and what did you finish up with? I use this particular brand right now in water and alcohol, but even once when I forgot something outside and it got rained on I had absolutely no ruboff on an unsealed piece piece that had only been dyed. I wonder if I just got lucky, or if there's something to purple being worse about ruboff due to the amount of tint used or something.
@@ryanmcewen415 hmmm. I woulda thought that would have worked. But I was wrong, what got wet on me was alcohol based. Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure what to tell you to try, I was just curious for my own reference later.
I've really been struggling with dying my leather. I'm a newbie. I only have the pro dye colors but it looks blotchy. The problem with dipping is that I don't want it to cover the whole project. I would like to use more then 1 color. Please help!
Jay Jay; Ok, this applies to water based as well as the oil based Pro Dye. Please note the Pro dye is an oil dye in an Alcohol carrier. The more you swab the darker it gets. So the Light Brown dye to get even means you put about 3 to 4 coats and it is Dark Brown by the time you're done. To prevent this buy some Denatured Alcohol at most any paint department and even Walmart sells it too. Or you can buy the 93% Rubbing Alcohol like I do and thin it. First try half and half and try several coats. Try experimenting to get the even coat and color you want. I will mix half and half, a Light Brown and Yellow dye and will get a nice lighter even coat that way too. To mix small amounts get an eye dropper where you can measure evenly. Write what you do down. Such as ,2cc with 4cc gets Blank, is the way to do it. Note oil base may feel dry because the alcohol dried, but the oil takes two to three hours depending on temp and humidity, so allow 4 hours for a complete dry before sealing or putting Atom Wax/leather balm on. But you don't need to wait to see if it's evenly coated. Water based dye isn't as color fast as oil dye and must be sealed, I use Tandy's Eco Flo Super Shene. I add alcohol to get it to sink in deeper, just 1 part alcohol to 3 parts sealer. As for getting the water based evenly coated use the methodology I pointed out for oil dye except use water, and mix colors. Good Luck.
You can use paintbrushes with the oil dye for small areas. I generally use my Fiebings Pro Black instead of black leather paint when painting vegitan. Be aware that it "seeps", you get used to it fast.
@@JayJay-sf2wn I am very glad to help an apprentice so to speak just starting off. Remember to write down your mixes. I suggest you buy a nice diary sized journal and make a nice cover for it. I make key fobs the same width as a belt to show a pattern I will typically make. So a customer can see what my arrowhead basket weave belt would look like. Or if I carve some western style floral style. You will find that your handmade Christmas gifts will be greatly coveted and appreciated. Well made leather gifts are one of those handmade items that people really want. I make beautiful bracelets with hand carved flowers. Here is a tip, use flower stamps and use an exacto knife and your swivel knife using the stamp as your pattern. It's a good way to practice small flowers until you get good with the swivel knife. Always something new to learn and practice. Tandy Leather has a bunch of short tutorial videos to learn methods from just to get started. Of course Chuck and Weaver has many tutorials too. I suggest you get some business cards made up because in a while people will be asking for one.
Hi Scott, I don't have a good answer for besides working the leather with your hands a bit after the dye has dried. Use and wear will be the best thing you can do to soften it up.
I was a bit disappointing with the comment " I'm not gonna top coat the dauber swatches, we already know all we need to know about that." That's not real scientific or useful for somebody starting to mess around with dyes. If the video was only about production speed it would make sense, but I actually get this dye for about 5 bucks at the local flea market, and it's about the only thing available to me. I use different methods for different results. I had ran out of brushes and rags suitable for the type of results I like, and achieved really great results with the dauber, being too lazy to run to the store that I just cut various swatches of different types of leather and had at it. It's more time consuming, but it can be used to great success. If you kinda "massage" it in with the dauber in a heavy coat and then swipe in one direction you'll actually get a uniform color with two or three coats. Basically I approach it like painting a wall, I slop it on in circles, and then with a semi dry dauber I pick up the excess as I swipe and the dauber does all the work depositing it to the thinner spots where it's needed, kinda like backrolling. Depending on the grain of the leather swiping back and forth or using circular motions clockwise, and then randomly switching to counter clockwise achieves a more marbled or distressed look with beautiful varying shades. The first coat kinda looks like crap but shows you about what you'll end up with. If you want a tighter (smaller splotches) keep doing coats in the circular motion, throw in a few swipes here and there to break up the repetativeness or the circular blobs, either with a dry dauber to lighten the stroke, or with excess dye to darken. Once you have the pattern you want, do even coats with the method above until you have the richness you want, stopping just a few shades short if your topcoat tends to darken the leather. I have a bad habit of giving out the gifts I've made, or selling the product before I take pictures, I'm gonna try to do better about that so I have some examples to post in the future. However, using Kelly Green from this company, about four or five coats, on some scrap white leather I had laying around, and using a paintbrush to daub and streak some shoe polish on, allowing it to dry, buffing it out, and soaking it in with a heat gun I was able to make a beautiful notebook cover that looked almost like a cross between distressed old leather and a deep green piece of emerald. I know that wasn't exactly the correct way of doing things, but it sealed up and none of the black or deep brown polish I used rubs off, and it just keeps looking more gorgeous with time. I just wanted to experiment with random materials I had on hand, a cross between actual leatherworking and tricks I'd learned from movie prop makers, and it went a long way towards showing me that if you take the time to try the unorthodox it may not work at all, but you'll learn something either way, but when it does work and turns out something like that cover did you got another trick up your sleeve that may translate to correct materials aswell as make you feel amazing about being able to take a crazy idea and turn it into an item that somebody will cherish for a lifetime. I gave the notebook cover to a buddy for his birthday, and it's one of the first things he shows people when they come to his house. Sorry for getting long winded, it was my really long way of saying, don't discount something just because of somebody else's opinion, or because the first coat or attempt doesn't look that great, you'd be surprised what you can do if you stick with something and dedicate some time into figuring out how to make it work.
living in California, I have purchased Fiebing's low VOC at Hobby Lobby. I am very happy with the results but the smell is very strong....I am baffled it is called low VOC to be frank.
I looked up the low voc cause that's what I can get locally. It is still oil based and despite the smell when you start after some dry time it smells like leather again. I find that it goes on good for me but i wet (case) my leather before i dye, I find that the color is more equal in doing so.
It’s refreshing to know that there are still good people like this in the world.
Most people would do this experiment and try to find ways to support their existing biases. I appreciate it when someone is capable of changing their thinking when exposed to new evidence.
The thoroughness and thoughtfulness of your videos is amazing. Just found you tonight and I’m so grateful! Learned more in 20 minutes than I did after hours of googling. Thank you thank you!
Chuck you should do a simple gifts episode for the holidays. Like here are 10 simple gifts you can do.
I only dip dye now because of your previous results with Pro dye. You've now opened up more possibilities because I have shyed away from water based dyes because of your recommendations . Thanks for the side by side demo my friend. Bob in CT
Thank you very much for this helpful video. I could decide what to use to dye. I like the non consistent dyed look of waterbased color done with dauber. Do you know if I also can use this to overdye from medium to darker brown? Why not!?
I’ve been needing this comparison soooo bad, thank you, Chuck! I know it shouldn’t matter, but the leather dye/water based dye is so much more cheaper, and I just don’t have a lot to spare for my hobby. (Obviously, if I were making a living out of this, I’d prioritize quality) I wanted to know the difference in quality as compared to the gap in prices, and now I have it... While if I strike it rich, of course I’ll go for pro dye in dip dying quantity, but for now.. I’ll just stick with the paintbrush/dauber/sponge dyeing technique and the small bottles the leather dyes come in - I’m not losing thaaaat much.
Is it possible to dye chrome tanned leather? Let's say for example a green chrome tanned piece to tan?
Just use the yellow pro dye, it looked good until i added the top coat. Im using fiebings tan kote. It would get a orangish tint and streaks. Any suggestions please
Hi, how can I get an antique finish in my stamp impression if I use the red pro dye? TIA
I want to dye a white Tignanello purse. can you suggest a process?'
At 6:00, it seems like that the saddle tan regular leather dye has a more aged, antique leather look whereas saddle tan pro has a more consistent look. I kinda like the aged antiqued look. I assume it is due to that regular dye doesn’t not penetrate as well.
All told, great tutorial, all told, really great.
thoughts on dye for calf skin dress shoes? alcohol seems to be the go-to but interested to hear other opinions
What about rub-off between the water based and Pro?
I only use prodye and dont ever if at all have rub off
Nice video
The little knowledge I have that dyes are made from bases and pigments . but what eludes me is the names of the base and pigments used to producing it before the thinning down takes place
! Startled me there Chuck! Turning up just as I'd run out of other subscriptions to watch.
Tells me lots of what I need to know. That'll do me for today's lesson 😉
On most of my builds, I've been using a water-based dye (Eco-Flow), mostly due to easier clean up, but I definitely get better results with Pro-dye for black. All that is on veg-tan. I have been picking up upholstery sides and hides in a light grey and using them for garmenting. The finish of the upholstery leather has necessitated using Pro-dye, as the water-based dyes simply rub off due to the finish. Makes sense, as you wouldn't want casual stains to take on a leather couch.
Many years ago, I did tests on many different kinds of dyes and settled on the Pro-Dye. I then tested a bunch a sealers, and I didn't like the high gloss plastic kind like Roselene, and ended up settling on Eco-Flo Satin Shene. Do you have any preference for sealers that are low gloss and let the leather feel like leather instead of a coating of plastic is on top? Thanks.
I just got some of the pro dye. I noticed it is alcohol based, but on a previous video I watched you mentioned that it wasn't good to use the alcohol based dyes. So which is it? I'm a little confused.
Supposedly, the alcohol based version, is the most popular option for the general value, ease of use,and performance of the stuff itself. The dye suspension in alcohol has the best ability to penetrate, and hold. The cons however, is that the alcohol dries the leather. Easily remedied with some conditioner. The "pro" version, was always oil based in the past, and "chemically" is better for the leather itself and easier to apply. The main advantage is the quality of the finish. When dip dying, that's irrelevant anyway. Idk if they changed the formula, but short version is.... 90% of stuff isn't worth the cost of oil based. For the other top 10% of your projects where quality is the most important thing, and cost is 2nd, splurge for the oil and finish it to perfection. My 2 cents.
Hi, Pali from Slovakia here,
Awesome concise videos in Leather Element series, great time/content ratio!
Garment + Ecology/Health&Safety questions:
1. Let's say ecological aspect is quite important to me. I'd choose veg tan leather naturally (as opposed to chrome). Did you encounter leather vendors able to offer material from sustainably farmed cattle or sustainably hunted deer, already?
Making a case or a pouch is straightforward. Veg tan is hard after it dries up. I color it, dry it, apply top balms, stitch/rivet it together. Done. But ...
2. I really love rather smooth/shiny chestnut, honey brown or rusty brown colored leather. (Who doesn't? :D ) I would be particularly interested in making garments or accessories in those shades. Can I avoid chrome at all? Can I make it myself from thinner sorts of veg tan leather, by working in oils by hand, to soften it? Is it individual-scale project? I saw video on "hardening leather", but not yet on softening veg tan (natural processed) leather. :)
3. I saw a lot of various videos on bark tanning techniques - and what surprised me that aside of the ubiquitous white-ish veg tan leather color, they show a whole variety of colors/looks of hides, also presenting them as "veg tan" too.
Is it true, i.e. doable just by veg tanning? Or are those rather Veg tan + Oils worked in the material?
From other side: is oil tan a different "tanning from the scratch" technique, or is it actually just a veg tan + oils worked in?
4. And now the health&safety part: would you recommend pick of dyes+finishes/balms/tops that are natural (ecological) enough and safe for skin = to wear?
Occasionally or day-long?
Would you recommend/prefer to wear leather garment with rough underside touching the skin, or the soft/glossy/top/grain side touching the skin (perhaps rather two leather sheaths stitched together to give the inside & top the same "feel")?
5. Finally, how to pick skin-safe metallic parts (rivets, buckets, rings ...) - is there some special naming for those? (No nickel, no ...)
Thanks a lot.
I love the water stain myself. Thanks Chuck. I like a sheep skin shearling to wipe on. Thanks for everything!
What color/ type of dye is he holding there at 4:59
That is the ProDye in Light Brown!
best video ever!! I have a floral belt blank now I know I will use pro dye and dip it instead of swapping it! ty! Tan❤
i want to dye cowboy boots. Have had them for years, had them resouled and healed but the leather needs help. i am thinking Red or Blue. any suggestions
Hi Chuck, I have a dye question for you. I made a collar for my dog out of Weaver Select 9 oz veg tan. I used red pro dye and leather balm. After it was done I had a beautiful red color. Its been a few months now, and the red color is fading significantly. The natural color of the veg tan is showing through. I took it off of her cleaned it with Fiebing's saddle soap, and reapplied leather balm, but it didn't help much. What did I do wrong, and how do I fix it? The collar is still in great shape except for the color fade.
How can i avoid dye stains on flesh side edges, while dyeing on Grain side of natural veg tanned with dauber or sponges ? Any advice me please
A good test Chuck, I use water based for some projects and pro dye for others, and with the water based dyes there’s absolutely no rub off or bleed even when wet moulding a holster.
That's good info, I was wondering about rub off.
Thank you. I was wondering if there would be rub off on a wet molded piece. 👍
Hi Chuck I really enjoy your videos very informative. My question is could you do a video on making a fanny pack thacks
Understood that you pour the dye back into the bottle using a funnel when done. Awesome. How do you clean up the container that held the dye? Is it safe to wash down the drain or is it better to wipe it out with a paper towel and throw away the towel?
Have you tried unicorn spit paint? I hear the colors are vibrant and have jasmine oil in it?
I have a full grain leather cowhide I purchased recently to refinish an Aames chair. Unfortunately what showed up is much more of a mid to light grey than what the images online showed, which is much more of a darker charcoal grey (which is what I want). So I need to re-dye the entire hide. I assume I need to fully immerse it or maybe spray on the dye and rub it in. I'd just return it if possible but I can't. Any help here (from anyone) is greatly appreciated!
I have a question about a video series you posted a year ago. You did a 7 chapter series on making a leather journal cover (which I have thoroughly enjoyed and been watching over and over trying to make my own by the way). In chapter four I think it is you glue the panels two the main body to punch the holes for the stitching before you dye the leather. At the end of the video you make a quick comment about popping the panels back off in order to dye them in the next chapter. My question is, do you have any tips on how to separate the pieces without marking up or ruining the leather?
Very informative, thank you!
Other than the results, are there advantages with going with one over the other? Toxicity, long term preservation of the leather, etc.
West Coast laws are getting to the point where we can't use Pro Dye, only water based, especially in California. But that is creeping up here to Oregon as well. Have heard some complaints about the alcohol and oil based cracking and drying out the leather, but haven't researched that enough tongive a definitive answer.
Please help me figure out how to dye pro dye over a low voc dye and if it’s low voc bc it’s the leather I use and all of the sudden it’s not p65 warning on the label and it looks dead?
Hey Chuck,
Awesome video. Very informative.
I bought a chukka boot with a beeswax finish. I want to change the color to something darker maybe like a dark brown or chocolate brown. Is there anyway to change the colour or am I stuck with the current finish because the beeswax will prevent me from dying it?
Very well done, sir!
I have a faded pair of suede boots that I'd like to refresh the color on; a turquoise. However, I can't find a turquoise suede dye, and am wondering if you have a brand suggestion and/or color-mixing formula to get a good turquoise. I'd really like for them to be deeply vibrant.
Hi there,
Fiebing's has a dye made specifically for suede. We don't carry it but you can check it out on their website!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, I prefer the pro dye 2 Chuck, I sometimes in my handmade items use different ways instead of dipping, a rag, papper towel, and here's one 4 you an electric toothbrush, try it U will be surprised, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
could you please point me to a glue that can hold two pieces of leather together after dipping them in the oil based pro dye, wiping it and lettin it cure for a few days? I didn´t find any that would hold the edges of a wallet good enough to stand normal use and not split on the edges. I score the surfaces pretty deep, but i noticed the oil seeps back to the new surface and after an hour or so the surface again looks oily, and the glue (contact cement) bascially lets go. Thank you for any bit of help :)
@@kubeek OLD LEATHER SMITH here, before I can answer you I would like complete information, tell me from start 2 finish what U do. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
How about the wear and tear resistance, which is better?
I’m working on by first project for a friend. Getting ready for dying. I think I’m leaving toward pro because of penetration and the richer color after leather balm.
Stiff leather is the bane of my leather dying process. I just cannot seem to get the leather back to supple. I have tried: Dye, then Neatsfoot. Dye, then Aussie. Dye then Mink oil. My veg tanned leather seems to be very stiff with water based dyes.
Hey darlin I was gonna do some distressed leather stuff, so I kinda want inconsistency...do you think that water based would be a better bet? I want to make some stuff look like "Freebird" boots look. If you havent ever seen em, check em out. Theyre super cool. Thank u for this!
ok I live in California can't seem to find anyone to ship pro dye!! help?? want saddle tan
Hi, thanks for the video. What would I use to make a red leather sofa an oxblood red color?
Great video.. question, do you reuse the dye after you dip? If so does dipping the leather dilute the dye at all, each time you use the dye? Thanks!!
You can reuse the dye to dip again but make sure you clear out any dust particle or leather particles that get in it
Awesome. Thanks Chuck for your video(s).
Thank You Chuck, Great comparison!!!
Great info! Might be useful since the water based has so many more color options.
How is the rub off on the water base
Swatches look good, but I think I need to see a side by side completed project. Would you mind doing a simple purse or notebook cover?
Any tricks to getting a pro Red Leather dye to be darker in color, I thinks it's too vibrant otherwise.
Thank you Chuck.
Q: how would you soften the leather if you use water based dye?
I would also like to know. I've read neatsfoot oil will help soften it, but it definitely darkens the color.
You have to work the leather with your hands, slightly rolling and bending it back and forth. It will loosen up and get softer and pliable.
Yes, we would second what @Everythign-Modern said - working the leather with your hands will soften the leather.
Thank you Chuck, nice demo☺
Hey Chuck... How can you lighten the colors. I'm looking at a couple of projects where I need a lighter blue. Any suggestions.... (from anyone)
I'm really hesitant to get into dyes because of the different types and needing to seal them. I have found I like vinagaroon and the deep black I get from it. Could you do a leather element on that one day?
baking soda also works. Paint it on for a light brown and dip it for dark.
Gracias 👍
Thank you Chuck. 👍👍
I don’t can find in your shop corner puncher from Master Tools!!! WHY??? Please please make same ❣️ I use the corner & the half round Puncher EVERYDAY & I love the quality from the master tool collection , so I REALLY NEED THE CORNER-puncher (1/4 round puncher) !!!
Or tell me please what’s the best option!
Leathercraft4live
Hi there, we are working on these! Hopefully we'll have a 2021 launch for three sizes so stay tuned.
Hi Sir,
Pls advise what must necessary tools needs to buy for leather works.
He has a video about that if you search his channel. Unless you just happen to have a ton of money to invest though I'd suggest you buy a cheap starter kit off amazon for 30-100 bucks, you'll spend nearly that much on each tool with weaver.
Most of the tools in the starter kits are serviceable enough to get you started and figure out if you want to stick with the trade or not. Go ahead and sink some good money into a stitch groover, pricking irons, and edge bevelers as those tend to suck in the kits.
Later on when you decide you're sticking with the hobby you can start to replace the other tools in your kit with the more expensive ones like weaver sells, but you'd quickly run into a thousand bucks investment in a beginner to moderate leatherworkers kit from any of the well known supply companys, and there's nothing wrong with paying good money for good tools, but leatherworking tools are very overpriced and expensive and there's no reason to spend that kind of money just to try it out.
I guess they're as exensive as they are because a well made tool is something you'll only need to buy a couple times in a lifetime, I'd spend a hundred on a well made stitch groover as those things need to be precise to work right, but I'll probably never buy a $300 mallet.
I've been watching this channel while playing around with leather making saddles for my breyer models. I've found that the water based dye (I was using eco-flo leather dye) makes the thin pieces incredibly stiff in a way that i cant work out with leather balm. unfortunately it's difficult to get my hands on pro dye in california. I might have to find a different method of dyeing.
Hi there,
You can work the leather with your hands to help remove some of the stiffness. Just roll it lightly or bend it back a forth without a lot of force or pressure and you should be able to work out some of the stiffness.
couple questions. First, I am looking for a DIY dye. I like to go old school and natural on products. Vinegaroon looks like a great black dye option. I have also seen a birch tar conditioner that looked nice. Anyway I am on the search for two basic things. DIY food safe leather dye. and DIY foodsafe leather conditioner.
I have a large batch of walnut husk dye going that I plan to use as a wood stain. I think I might try it out on a leather belt as well. It is water based, I suppose I could repeat the process next year and sub in some alcohol or oil to try to get an oil based walnut dye. Has anyone messed around with walnut husk on leather? Im concerned about making it too brittle.
For the conditioner/balm I am thinking about going with beeswax and another oil. Probably coconut as I have it on hand. Would be cook to do it with walnut oil to keep the theme going.
Anyone have experience with this more random style of dying leather? Oh please don't suggest store bought dyes and keep everything food safe if possible. The less harmful ingredients the better as many of my products are multiuse and handled frequently. Some will directly contact food, its almost certain that all will indirectly contact food at some point. They are woodsman, hunter, fisher, bushcraft, whatever you want to call it items.
Did ya put oil on them after the balm?
Chuck how does one soften the leather back up from the dye?
Hi John,
I work the leather with my hands - lightly roll is and bend it and it should help soften it up.
in my opinion, since I've only used water based ever since I started working with leather, and also because here in Pakistan only water based dyes are available, black works the best and comes out beautifully if dip dyed, just like you showed. although, the other colors are a bit of a disappointment to be honest. they dont get absorbed properly, and have alot of surface rub off.
Hi! I am looking into dying some rawhide conga drum heads/skins to black and dark brown colors. Can you please tell me your recommendations on the steps on how to go about doing this and what type of dye that you recommend? I've seen it done using fabric dyes by soaking them in a bucket, but thinking by using a leather dye would keep them from fading and rubbing/wearing off when playing the drums?
Thank you,
Ponch
Hi there, see if this thread has any useful information for you! We don't have a lot of experience with this but there are some good tips in the link below: www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=33897.0
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you, I appreciate it....
Mr. Chuck loving the videos. I have a question. How do I dye leather (vegtan) white. There seams to be no clear way to do this. Th anks in advance
I'm sorry I don't have an answer for you on this one. About the only way to go would be to use an acrylic paint or dye to get the leather white.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you sir
Once you dip dye, do you toss out the dye that isn't used or put it back in the bottle? Unfortunately, I can't get the Pro dye in California so stretching the dye as far as possible is my concern. I've also been told to treat the leather with an oil before using the water dye, is that required? Question on to coat, I'm using Rosolene and I find it sometimes gets streaky, is leather balm recommended instead? Can you saddle soap on top of the top coat or will that destroy it?
Hi Justin,
I pour the unused dye back into the bottle using a funnel and it can be used again, so , no waste on that end.
Using oil before dyeing is really something I would recommend testing out for yourself and see if you like it. A lot of people say this will help the dye absorb better, but I have never personally done this so maybe test a scrap piece of leather and see which one you like best. If you do apply oil first, make sure it's a light coat.
On the top coat, if you're getting streaks, try dabbing it on with some shearling, instead of applying it in strokes. You can also thin it down if needed. If you're still having trouble then, yes, maybe try a different top coat but resolene should work just fine.
I wouldn't apply saddle soap on top of the top coat unless it's just on the edges of the leather to slick them. Or if the product has been uses for a while and needs cleaned, then you could use some saddle soap but leather will get a natural patina from use that you don't want to try and clean off. Hope that helps!
Hi, I have a question. Suppose you have a piece of leather nicely cut in a curve - say a 'C' shaped piece. Except you find it a tad too big. What's a good way to trim 1-2mm off a curved edge, without basically recutting it and making a complete mess of what was originally a nice edge?
Thanks, Epi
Hi there,
You could possibly use sand paper to trim it down. If that doesn't work, cutting it would be the only option.
I’m going to dye my leather fire helmet. Any suggestions?
What kind of rags were used with the balm?
Hi Anthony,
Those are cotton rags
awsome tutorial !
Im confused... Should i harden leather with wax or oven heat? Also, should i use baking, should i dye before or after? Also, thankyou.
Hi Rick,
We recommend the baking method for hardening leather. Dye and top coat after hardening.
Her is a video on hardening in the oven: th-cam.com/video/hwGW_qwpxYs/w-d-xo.html
I have an old (expensive) briefcase that is very splotchy looking with what looks like some watermarks. It is still strong and otherwise in good condition. Can I bring it back to life?
Hi Suzie,
Before resorting to re-dyeing or anything, we would try cleaning it with a good leather cleaner like Bickmore or Leather Therapy. And then condition with something like Smith's Leather Balm or Aussie Leather Conditioner.
That should help bring the color back and help even out the spots but if not you can use a deglazer to remove the top coat, re-dye and apply a top coat. I would try cleaning and conditioning first before re-dyeing though.
Hi, Chuck! In one of the comments writes that after applying an oil-based dye, the top is additionally sealed with alcohol. Will this be a problem and will it prevent the paint from smearing and spilling. Or if added directly to the paint will it affect its saturation. Thank you.
Hi there,
I'm not sure I understand your question completely, but, after dyeing the leather you will want to seal it with a top coat. Something like FIebing's Leather Balm, Resolene, or RTC will work but any type of sealing top coat for leather will work great. The dye will not smear but if you have paint on the leather you will want to add the top coat by dabbing, not wiping. You can also apply it with an airbrush.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you very much for the advice!
Can you dye boots that are brown to gray? @weaverleathersupply?
Leather work and shoe repair shops were a casualty of the modern disposable age. As a result there are very few shops left and it’s really expensive. I brought boots to be re-soled last year and it was almost $100! I don’t feel like he was over charging me, he has a store in what’s become a high rent area and a lot less customers then he used to; I’m surprised he’s still in business! They’re expensive boots made of high quality leather so I had it done. Nowadays any shoe or boot that costs less than $100 (base price not sales) are pleather, and quality leather costs over $200, but for most shoes and boots today it doesn’t make sense to spend that much money to repair shoes.
If you have health concerns about breathing the the toxic smell from the pro dyes, then what mask will block out that smell? What element is putting out that smell? It can help me choose appropriate mask. The more heavier the filter I would need the more obtrusive the mask is but what ever is necessary to protect our health.
Can you pls make a video how to soften leather too?
Hi Viktor, I really don't have a good answer for you on this besides just working the leather with your hands a bit after the dye has dried. Use and wear will soften it as well.
does it shrink? I mean does the leather shrink after dipping in water based dye?
Hi Bassam,
No, there was no shrinkage.
Brilliant!! Thanks
Is the leather bomb the Same as the sheen? And I was told that I should apply the sheen on both sides of the leather..is this accurate?
Oh and what if you apply oil to the leather before using water base dye, can that maybe stop it from stiffing? Thanks again.
Hi there,
They are both waxy top coats but they are a bit different in the fact that one is aerosol and one needs to be applied by hand and then buffed so I would recommend experimenting to see which one you prefer, personally, for your style of leatherwork. If the back of the project is dyed, then, yes I would recommend adding the top coat to both front and back.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply awesome !! Thanks
Really helpful, Chuck. At least I know I don't need to get over excited about playing with pro dyes!
How to thinner the pro dye ?
What material can thin the pro dye
you can use normal alcohole to thin both.
maybe not a leather element question per say but i am curtious "is it ethical to use a bought template to make projects for sale? for example if you were to buy a template to make a certain style of wallet to sell, would that be considered plagiarism/copyright? or do you have to draw up your own pattern to use for sale? many people may dance right over this topic but i dont want wrong another crafter in any way even if it was unintentionally
Hi Joe,
If the template is for sale and you paid for it, then there shouldn't be any copyright issues.
Unless there is fine print saying the template can't be used for making and reselling.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you so much
Good info, thanks for the video.
The issue I have with the water colours is that they can bleed if the leather ever gets caught in the rain.
Made a belt for someone a few years ago and the purple colour bled onto their pants when they got caught in a sudden shower. Purple bleed all down their light tan pants.
It's for this reason I stick to pro dye only.
What kind of prep work did you do, and what did you finish up with? I use this particular brand right now in water and alcohol, but even once when I forgot something outside and it got rained on I had absolutely no ruboff on an unsealed piece piece that had only been dyed.
I wonder if I just got lucky, or if there's something to purple being worse about ruboff due to the amount of tint used or something.
@@fantomlimbs I seal everything with acrylic resolene.
@@ryanmcewen415 hmmm. I woulda thought that would have worked. But I was wrong, what got wet on me was alcohol based.
Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure what to tell you to try, I was just curious for my own reference later.
@@fantomlimbs I switched to Fiebings Pro dye and have never had an issue since.
I've really been struggling with dying my leather. I'm a newbie. I only have the pro dye colors but it looks blotchy. The problem with dipping is that I don't want it to cover the whole project. I would like to use more then 1 color. Please help!
Jay Jay; Ok, this applies to water based as well as the oil based Pro Dye. Please note the Pro dye is an oil dye in an Alcohol carrier. The more you swab the darker it gets. So the Light Brown dye to get even means you put about 3 to 4 coats and it is Dark Brown by the time you're done. To prevent this buy some Denatured Alcohol at most any paint department and even Walmart sells it too. Or you can buy the 93% Rubbing Alcohol like I do and thin it. First try half and half and try several coats. Try experimenting to get the even coat and color you want. I will mix half and half, a Light Brown and Yellow dye and will get a nice lighter even coat that way too.
To mix small amounts get an eye dropper where you can measure evenly. Write what you do down. Such as ,2cc with 4cc gets Blank, is the way to do it.
Note oil base may feel dry because the alcohol dried, but the oil takes two to three hours depending on temp and humidity, so allow 4 hours for a complete dry before sealing or putting Atom Wax/leather balm on. But you don't need to wait to see if it's evenly coated.
Water based dye isn't as color fast as oil dye and must be sealed, I use Tandy's Eco Flo Super Shene. I add alcohol to get it to sink in deeper, just 1 part alcohol to 3 parts sealer.
As for getting the water based evenly coated use the methodology I pointed out for oil dye except use water, and mix colors.
Good Luck.
@@MountainFisher THANK YOU!!! I will try it!
You can use paintbrushes with the oil dye for small areas. I generally use my Fiebings Pro Black instead of black leather paint when painting vegitan. Be aware that it "seeps", you get used to it fast.
@@MountainFisher Thank you so much for this tip! My project turned out GORGEOUS! I wish I could send you a picture!
@@JayJay-sf2wn I am very glad to help an apprentice so to speak just starting off. Remember to write down your mixes. I suggest you buy a nice diary sized journal and make a nice cover for it. I make key fobs the same width as a belt to show a pattern I will typically make. So a customer can see what my arrowhead basket weave belt would look like. Or if I carve some western style floral style. You will find that your handmade Christmas gifts will be greatly coveted and appreciated. Well made leather gifts are one of those handmade items that people really want.
I make beautiful bracelets with hand carved flowers. Here is a tip, use flower stamps and use an exacto knife and your swivel knife using the stamp as your pattern. It's a good way to practice small flowers until you get good with the swivel knife. Always something new to learn and practice. Tandy Leather has a bunch of short tutorial videos to learn methods from just to get started. Of course Chuck and Weaver has many tutorials too.
I suggest you get some business cards made up because in a while people will be asking for one.
Whats the difference between dye and stains
Hi Nathan,
Here is a good article explaining this pretty in-depth. Hope that helps!
favoredleather.com/leather-dye-vrs-stain/
How do you take the stiffness out?
Hi Scott,
I don't have a good answer for besides working the leather with your hands a bit after the dye has dried. Use and wear will be the best thing you can do to soften it up.
Can it be used on suede?
We would recommend using a dye made specifically for suede to dye suede. I believe Fiebing's sells one.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thanks!
I was a bit disappointing with the comment " I'm not gonna top coat the dauber swatches, we already know all we need to know about that." That's not real scientific or useful for somebody starting to mess around with dyes.
If the video was only about production speed it would make sense, but I actually get this dye for about 5 bucks at the local flea market, and it's about the only thing available to me. I use different methods for different results. I had ran out of brushes and rags suitable for the type of results I like, and achieved really great results with the dauber, being too lazy to run to the store that I just cut various swatches of different types of leather and had at it. It's more time consuming, but it can be used to great success.
If you kinda "massage" it in with the dauber in a heavy coat and then swipe in one direction you'll actually get a uniform color with two or three coats. Basically I approach it like painting a wall, I slop it on in circles, and then with a semi dry dauber I pick up the excess as I swipe and the dauber does all the work depositing it to the thinner spots where it's needed, kinda like backrolling.
Depending on the grain of the leather swiping back and forth or using circular motions clockwise, and then randomly switching to counter clockwise achieves a more marbled or distressed look with beautiful varying shades. The first coat kinda looks like crap but shows you about what you'll end up with. If you want a tighter (smaller splotches) keep doing coats in the circular motion, throw in a few swipes here and there to break up the repetativeness or the circular blobs, either with a dry dauber to lighten the stroke, or with excess dye to darken.
Once you have the pattern you want, do even coats with the method above until you have the richness you want, stopping just a few shades short if your topcoat tends to darken the leather.
I have a bad habit of giving out the gifts I've made, or selling the product before I take pictures, I'm gonna try to do better about that so I have some examples to post in the future. However, using Kelly Green from this company, about four or five coats, on some scrap white leather I had laying around, and using a paintbrush to daub and streak some shoe polish on, allowing it to dry, buffing it out, and soaking it in with a heat gun I was able to make a beautiful notebook cover that looked almost like a cross between distressed old leather and a deep green piece of emerald.
I know that wasn't exactly the correct way of doing things, but it sealed up and none of the black or deep brown polish I used rubs off, and it just keeps looking more gorgeous with time. I just wanted to experiment with random materials I had on hand, a cross between actual leatherworking and tricks I'd learned from movie prop makers, and it went a long way towards showing me that if you take the time to try the unorthodox it may not work at all, but you'll learn something either way, but when it does work and turns out something like that cover did you got another trick up your sleeve that may translate to correct materials aswell as make you feel amazing about being able to take a crazy idea and turn it into an item that somebody will cherish for a lifetime.
I gave the notebook cover to a buddy for his birthday, and it's one of the first things he shows people when they come to his house.
Sorry for getting long winded, it was my really long way of saying, don't discount something just because of somebody else's opinion, or because the first coat or attempt doesn't look that great, you'd be surprised what you can do if you stick with something and dedicate some time into figuring out how to make it work.
The non-pro dyes always suck when putting dye on leather, each pass over the same place makes it darker and darker
I love that Water Base Green! The Pro Dye Green, not very much. Not really a rich green like I like.
Same, I immediately went to buy it after seeing it and it was sold out in the small bottle. I had to get the big bottle lol
Chuck you should compare fiebings low voc alchohol based and fiebings pro dye alchohol based. Since fiebings leather dye is water based.
living in California, I have purchased Fiebing's low VOC at Hobby Lobby. I am very happy with the results but the smell is very strong....I am baffled it is called low VOC to be frank.
I looked up the low voc cause that's what I can get locally. It is still oil based and despite the smell when you start after some dry time it smells like leather again. I find that it goes on good for me but i wet (case) my leather before i dye, I find that the color is more equal in doing so.
Oooooh... ideas! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Nice
nice video. I think the water based dye is more commonly called "alcohol dye". With no doubt the Pro(Oil) dye is better in all aspects.
Water based and alcohol based dyes are two different things.
@@jackgilchrist really?😂
I want to be this guy when I grow up
I want to do a big man's recliner.
How well the various dyes wick in would appear to be fact, not opinion. :-)