Those LED panels are totally unsmoothed. The LEDs strobe at 100Hz on the rectified DC and use very simple current regulation, so the LEDs tend to only light for the upper part of the sinewave. Hopefully yours was actually earthed, as some of the earth wires are not connected internally. That's not good, because a common failure mode of these lights is for a failed LED to arc and potentially burn through the insulating layer to the aluminium panel it's mounted on. That results in DC biased leakage.
@BigClive.... As much as I thouroughly enjoy your channel, I don't understand why the flickering stopped when plugged into the ring back at the workshop.
Today I walked past the gallery in Belsize Lane where James was tidying the BT cables. OpenReach van there, barriers up around the bit where James was working.
Love this channel and I don’t think people realise how much work goes on in the background. One of my favourites to watch and Tom is such a laugh. The fact they can fix their cars there and stick around just because they want to means there’s a great manager there. Stick together guys!
Anyone else spotted the welsh lad taking a BT 18 off the wall ? No wonder he doesn't recognise the whirring , it's a telephone DP or distribution point ( probably redundant , but a bit of a gamble to remove/work on ) . BTW not having a go at you or the channel , just an observation ;)
Someone else left a comment claiming they walked past there afterwards and there was an Openreach van and barriers around the bit where James was working 😂
Thanks for all the great content , as an apprentice , I can say that your content is great not only fucking hilarious , but also educational , learn some great life skills from your content , thank you , I did my first year doing highways but recently switched out to commercial industrial , and it’s a good throw back to see you starting in the highways sector
18:16 - To quote Big Clive, instead of trying (and failing) to prevent any water from getting *_in,_* make sure the water has an easy way to get *_out._*
Had a frantic phone call from a neighbour on his mobile recently because he’d removed some ‘redundant’ phone cables and cut their phone and internet off. When I got there his daughter was cursing him and his wife offered to give me all his tools as this isn’t the first Captain Chaos incident he’s caused.
I'm guessing there's enough of a voltage drop on that cable to cause the light to flicker and the other brand is just better at handling that. Also, that 75W is assuming the light has unity power factor, it's probably closer to 60W.
Lower wattage LED floodlights normally last quite well as they run cool. However the cheap 100w ones run very hot, combine that with lightweight inadequate cooling fins and an early demise is inevitable.
James: Are you folks still using Posidrive or Philips screws? You need to be using #2 Square Drive/Robertson, once you use them, you'll never use anything else. And they make hex driver bits for impacts and drivers. I use these all day, everyday.
Hi the bosch Multi Purpose Construction Drill Bits have been around for a long time ive been using the a few years now they are great bits and cheap too and the van looks great with black rims.
My guess is that those floodlights picked up noise on the line. There was something about a dimmer---is there one on their line, too? In that case the dimmer may cut the sine wave down so far that the zero-transition gets so long that the naked eye can see it as flicker.
Flicker could be caused by a mix of the cheaply constructed LED driver circuit and the already choppy supply feeding it. All those other lights on the same supply feed have their own switch mode supplies which will have an impact.
A small noisy ripple superposed on the 230V AC won't be noticeable with any meter (or oscilloscope; a spectrum analyzer could be useful, not really an electricians tool however) I would try to add a small 230V rated capacitor in parallel with the lamp, it should take care of the (majority) of the noise...
TLC sell a full range of LED LITE brand warm white floodlights. Arguably not a 'quality' associated brand but from personal experience - they've been reliable. They have a 3 year warranty too.
I have 5 of them lights or very alike.I had an issue like that.and my sparky said it was the coldness outside that was causing that.I find that odd.but all 5 are working well now
I can highly recommend lights from Ledvance (which is a brand from Osram). They have floodlights in 6500, 4000 and 3000 K, with an competetive price and I very rarely had any problems with them. I don't know how the availability is in the UK, but in Austria/Germany you can get it at the wholesalers really quickly. Also they have other lights too (commercial / industrial), so it's worth checking out!
@@harrymcgill6291 from what he describes it sounds like a fault to earth... which can't occur with selv... probably due to moisture in buried junction boxes rather than damaged cable. But yes you'd have to test first to know that you still have at least two continous cores that aren't directly shorted to each other.
@@mrfrenzy. They won't corrode that quickly infact, but even a couple of years would give them the option of working lights until they're ready to relay the drive and replace cables
Most of the lighting I install is Ansell. They do Calinor in warm and cool white. I've got them all down a drive and washing up trees etc on a hotel. Most of them have been facing the sky for 6 years and she thus far survived the Scottish elements
Here in belgium we dont fix boxes with screws we always use white stuff called knauf and it works great never had a box come loose even after 50+ years
These cheap floodlights are cheaper because they use less LED cobs and over drive them, so they are proper bright and pull the full amount of energy and heat up a lot. But they last way less than a proper floodlights. You can mod a 100W cheap floodlight to use 50 to 60% of the power so they last forever without issues even if you get less light.
1:52 The same case of San Pellegrino water at Costco here in the USA is over $20 now. I guess shipping water from there to here with as expensive as shipping containers are is the reason! 🤦♂️😊🍻
@Thomas Nagy could the flickering LED panels have been caused by the low outside temperatures ? .. and bringing them back to the warmer warehouse is what made them work again.
I was gunna ask what else is on the circuit. I have a couple lamps over benches that get a bit unhappy and flicker like that when I put a load on like a vacuum cleaner or heaters (3d printers) on the same circuit. IDK the answer but could spark an idea, voltage doesnt change, frequency appears to stay the same, tho kilowatt could be showing smoothed numbers.
If you want to change the colour of the light, and you can open it, you could try a photographic gel (plastic sheet) inside and convert from the cool white to warm white, you'll lose a bit of power output and you'll need to be careful of heat (although you can get heat resistant ones too).
Regarding the gel... I spoke to a rep from Wiska at Elex last month who enlightened me about why IP66 boxes get wet inside. It is due to pressure differentials throughtout the year. Inside the box, being a vacuum, draws in moisture from the air from chages between hot weather and cold weather causing condensation inside the box BUT they have an answer to boxes above ground (not buried under ground which do need gel) in the form of VentGland or VentPlug which equalise the pressure throughout the year.
I work in a wet environment and they say a box is ip rated until you drill a hole in it. After that as you say the atmospheric conditions heating cooling and water vapour cause water ingress.
Hang on.: You say that the inside of the box contains a vacuum - yes? - So how does a box that contains a vacuum draw in moisture from the air? If that were the case then the vacuum seal would have to be broken first.
@@Sharron-Idol that is what was explained to me as being the case - the seal is broken by the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to warming up and cooling down and drawing in the moist air which condensates inside it.
Have you checked the supply Voltage at the tree 🎄..? Cheaper fittings have less voltage tolerances than expensive ones... That's why it'll work fine in the workshop because short cable runs... Long cable runs in the garden = volt drop...
I work on store signs , converting them from neon to led and we change the 💩 out of the led drivers . I seen them go bad as fast at I got home and the driver went . Or they start blinking = bad driver .
We typically put a gel junction box under the metal trunk of these Bega lights because most of them don’t allow two lines to go in and shorten the attached blue Kabel a bit but leave enough so that you can pull the cans out of their trunk. To be honest we don’t know how that could be done better, except of the metal trunks allow to connect the lines in their again…. And warm white floodlights we use A lot of ledvance/ osram and another companie I currently don’t know the name…
Might be the rectifying circuit that is under a certain voltage and causes flickering. I once had a light that flickers when the line and neutral was swopped.
On the driveway lights with the failed underground cable... it looks like you've got three core (2 + earth) flex. Would it be an option to work out which of the cores are faulty, say there's a line-earth short, connect them together and swap the whole thing to 12 or 24V? So your brown and yellow/green would be +12 and your blue would be 0. Or whatever combination of cables that makes it function. You'd have to be very careful to label everything, oversleeve, put an obvious sticker where it's fed from saying "it's like this because" etc. etc. but it might work.
@@mrfrenzy. you're quite right, I hadn't considered that aspect! Not that the original install was done in such a way to make it anything close to permanent 😅
@@mikeZL3XD7029 if you've got 6 lamps at 3W each running at 24V it's less than an amp. And the cable looked like it could have been 1.5mm so that doesn't seem too out of whack? Clearly a 50W halogen at each point is going to be problematic!
I know over time they get quite rusty and they are inefficient, but if you wanted a warm white floodlight use a 500w halogen one. They are Super bright and warm white
Those drill bits look interesting.. any reason to get the hex shanked ones over normal rounded if to be used in a standard drill ? Have seen the do a 4 pack round or 5 pack hex - would you expect the same quality of both?
They're not your average bits, they're the Bosch multipurpose (I'm sure they used to be called multi construction) bits that are designed in such a way they can be used without hammer. They can also drill things other than brick. You can use them in a screwdriver or similar, the Bosch 12V screwdriver is basically a drill with no chuck. They make non hex ones too.
We make led floodlights in power outputs up to 10000 lumens polycarb bodies and replaceable boards and driver colour temps down to 2400k. Not the cheapest but every component driver board etc etc is replaceable so pretty economical in the long run, we hate the idea of all the work going into making and shipping these products and they just end up in the bin. Water finds its own width !!! I have been making IP rated products for over 25 years it's hard !!!! Love the Gel connectors simple effective solution.
Collingwood do a flood light range that are CCT and you can set the colour temp switch on the back. We use them all the time now and they are quite reasonably priced. Decent warranty on them too👍
I know it should not make a difference but I have had flickering fluorescent lights which was cured by swopping round the wires (live and neutral) I don't know if leds would be the same
Flicker will be from electrical noise from the supply or items on the supply feed. Out of interest was the LED transformer on the supply feed for the flood light. Those cheap LED lights have no smoothing in the circuit usually so that could cause the flicker.
The Waterproof gel is an excellent idea it's the first time I've seen it. Just wondering would clear silicone do the same job, as it's non conducting & Waterproof?
I love watching your videos every week and I love them but please change the lamp in the light in the kitchen area of the unit please hahahaha it’s making my brain go nuts 😂😂😂 but seriously I love watching every week .
Flicker on the floodlight will be the cheapo power supply inside. If you fancy tinkering just put a quality capacitor on the PSU output. That will smooth it and take the flicker out.
I have 2 of those floods which I use indoors with plugs on the flex. They don’t flicker , but, they do get hot enough they you can’t touch them. I can’t imagine they’ll last that long in that condition.
Agree regarding the boxes and grip filling…has an apprentice put them in on first fix and had the same issue with a single skin wall and grip filled in…but put them in so pissed it was like a diamond! Had to yank them out and it was a nightmare!
I am sure you can get a collingwood fitting which you can choose the light output I am supposed to be fitting one tomorrow and collingwood gear is usually very good cef sell them don't get why they would not have told you. Been loving the content, a real spark showing how all good electricians work none of this fake stuff telling us we should never work on a live cu and lots of other rubbish that is not realistic for us to do.
Hi Tom , I am an electrician from Scotland and I personally use the Collingwood flood lights as they are colour changeable as well as very robust fittings, a bit on the pricey range but I have fitted many of them and so far no call backs. Worth a try if you get a chance out of CEF.
Could those LED panels have such a lousy driver circuit that it jams RCDs like a D-Lok? If so, it'd be worth checking that it's wired properly and not got N-E reversed (which would work fine on TN-S or TN-C-S but would not be happy on a TT supply).
Try a normal cool white light and then use a filter / fitting over the led panel? Like vinyl or something? Maybe increase the wattage to cover for the reduction of light
Those cheap led fittings are usually over driven hard & all the ones I've used have lasted about 13 months (typical) & then one led chip will fail & drag the rest down so it'll flicker or run dim
Like Clive said he has dealt with a few of those types.. i recon the voltage at the JB was just low enough to be an issue for the driver circuit. In fairness those 2 look better quality than the ones Clive took apart.. defo check the earth like Clive mentioned.
You should have measured the voltage exactly at the point of termination with a decent multimeter for those lights. It may be that voltage was out of their range, so volt drop maybe a factor. A lot of electronics requires between 220v and 240. I have seen electronic equipment that has stated 230v and that’s that. Come in any lower and it won’t work right or won’t last long
OTOH, the grid is allowed to fluctuate quite a bit (+/-10%, i.e.between 207 and 253 V)t and devices connected to it must be capable of dealing with it.
Could it be dirty power that is causing those LED flood lights to flicker, internal driver could just be unable to deal with that and flicker whereas the other lights with better LED drivers is able to handle the dirty power?
You sure you dont have a fair vdrop by the time you get to that light Tom? Would probably explain the flickering if it was to low.... Imagine would effect some makes / models and not others, just depends on how good / bad the fittings are.... Could also explain why that LED strip driver wasnt working?! Might have been right on the voltage limit and happened to be ok again when new one went in, just a thought!
Could you use a bright white light and use a film to warm the colour? Or do high power LEDs put out too much heat that could damage/melt/explode the film?
Gripfill: Sorry mate, tried that stuff on a job, very, very not good. Took ages to go off, and until it did, the box moved around on the wall; so running cables into it was a no go. Expanding foam however, very fckn good. Use that stuff whenever poss. if you've got a line of accessories in a row, that stuff's great for setting them up properly, keeping them exactly where you want them. Jolly good, carry on 😁
Those LED panels are totally unsmoothed. The LEDs strobe at 100Hz on the rectified DC and use very simple current regulation, so the LEDs tend to only light for the upper part of the sinewave. Hopefully yours was actually earthed, as some of the earth wires are not connected internally. That's not good, because a common failure mode of these lights is for a failed LED to arc and potentially burn through the insulating layer to the aluminium panel it's mounted on. That results in DC biased leakage.
i could actually hear your voice whilst i was reading this Clive
I'm pretty sure at some point big Clive will just be uk electrical advice service for all UK yt. Barry, ashen Tom you name it
As soon as Tom asked the question - I just knew that you would know the answer. So pleased that you saw it and have provided a solution.
Would be great if Tom sent one of them over to Clive for a tear apart
@BigClive.... As much as I thouroughly enjoy your channel, I don't understand why the flickering stopped when plugged into the ring back at the workshop.
Today I walked past the gallery in Belsize Lane where James was tidying the BT cables. OpenReach van there, barriers up around the bit where James was working.
Judging by the look of those wires, i wonder if all the residents will see a nice boost in their internet speeds with some fresh terminations.
that redundant wiring removed was a BT distribution point....😬 be an engineer back there to install a new block and tail before long!
I guess that's a roundabout way to get it sorted... eeek. I can only hope all the pairs weren't chopped too short....
Love this channel and I don’t think people realise how much work goes on in the background. One of my favourites to watch and Tom is such a laugh. The fact they can fix their cars there and stick around just because they want to means there’s a great manager there. Stick together guys!
What's the voltage drop on that garden supply by the time you get to the fitting? It might be fine for 1 brand, but not the other?
Exactly what I was going to write.
Anyone else spotted the welsh lad taking a BT 18 off the wall ? No wonder he doesn't recognise the whirring , it's a telephone DP or distribution point ( probably redundant , but a bit of a gamble to remove/work on ) . BTW not having a go at you or the channel , just an observation ;)
I knew several ppl weren’t gonna be happy with that. And thats just the local residents
Someone else left a comment claiming they walked past there afterwards and there was an Openreach van and barriers around the bit where James was working 😂
Thomas must be paying his dentist good money. Because his smile lights up brighter than any LED floodlights in the dark.
You're not suggesting he's had a "Hammond" are you? ;-)
Thanks for all the great content , as an apprentice , I can say that your content is great not only fucking hilarious , but also educational , learn some great life skills from your content , thank you , I did my first year doing highways but recently switched out to commercial industrial , and it’s a good throw back to see you starting in the highways sector
18:16 - To quote Big Clive, instead of trying (and failing) to prevent any water from getting *_in,_* make sure the water has an easy way to get *_out._*
Did everyone's phone and broadband stay working after removing those redundant wires ?
That was definitely a working BT DP lols 😂😂😂
Had a frantic phone call from a neighbour on his mobile recently because he’d removed some ‘redundant’ phone cables and cut their phone and internet off. When I got there his daughter was cursing him and his wife offered to give me all his tools as this isn’t the first Captain Chaos incident he’s caused.
I'm guessing there's enough of a voltage drop on that cable to cause the light to flicker and the other brand is just better at handling that.
Also, that 75W is assuming the light has unity power factor, it's probably closer to 60W.
Lower wattage LED floodlights normally last quite well as they run cool. However the cheap 100w ones run very hot, combine that with lightweight inadequate cooling fins and an early demise is inevitable.
we use petroluem jelly/vaseline to reliably keep moisture out of connectors
works for years
Also highly flammable
James:
Are you folks still using Posidrive or Philips screws?
You need to be using #2 Square Drive/Robertson, once you use them, you'll never use anything else.
And they make hex driver bits for impacts and drivers.
I use these all day, everyday.
Hi the bosch Multi Purpose Construction Drill Bits have been around for a long time ive been using the a few years now they are great bits and cheap too and the van looks great with black rims.
My guess is that those floodlights picked up noise on the line.
There was something about a dimmer---is there one on their line, too? In that case the dimmer may cut the sine wave down so far that the zero-transition gets so long that the naked eye can see it as flicker.
Flicker could be caused by a mix of the cheaply constructed LED driver circuit and the already choppy supply feeding it. All those other lights on the same supply feed have their own switch mode supplies which will have an impact.
A small noisy ripple superposed on the 230V AC won't be noticeable with any meter (or oscilloscope; a spectrum analyzer could be useful, not really an electricians tool however) I would try to add a small 230V rated capacitor in parallel with the lamp, it should take care of the (majority) of the noise...
Maybe it was to cold outside
Better lamps will have better capacitive filtering on the driver output. More components, more £££.
@@laurensscheldeman4121 You could probably swipe a capacitor out of an old fluorescent unit.
Could someone ask the Welshman, is it true they buy their wellies 2 sizes bigger than normal?? ;-)
🐑🐑 baaaaaaaa
You should put some mini eggs in the dispenser
As someone who has watched your channel from the start you have come a long way. Love the banter.
Theft and modification of Openreach property is a bit of a liability boys.
TLC sell a full range of LED LITE brand warm white floodlights. Arguably not a 'quality' associated brand but from personal experience - they've been reliable. They have a 3 year warranty too.
Fitted loads there good 👍
@@danielhearnden3776 *they’re*
@@danielhearnden3776 Where is good?
Absolute madness the turn this channel has taken 👍loving the Welsh fella !
I have 5 of them lights or very alike.I had an issue like that.and my sparky said it was the coldness outside that was causing that.I find that odd.but all 5 are working well now
I can highly recommend lights from Ledvance (which is a brand from Osram). They have floodlights in 6500, 4000 and 3000 K, with an competetive price and I very rarely had any problems with them. I don't know how the availability is in the UK, but in Austria/Germany you can get it at the wholesalers really quickly. Also they have other lights too (commercial / industrial), so it's worth checking out!
Love your Videos by the way only just found your channel so Iam binge watching !!!
Re driveway lights, if possible insert a transformer after the switch and convert the ground lights to 12v selv, then they can't trip and will be safe
But ist there a damaged wire underground or short
@@harrymcgill6291 from what he describes it sounds like a fault to earth... which can't occur with selv... probably due to moisture in buried junction boxes rather than damaged cable. But yes you'd have to test first to know that you still have at least two continous cores that aren't directly shorted to each other.
@@lewistempleman9752 👍🏻👍🏻
The connections will corrode away anyways even if you get it working for a short while.
@@mrfrenzy. They won't corrode that quickly infact, but even a couple of years would give them the option of working lights until they're ready to relay the drive and replace cables
Most of the lighting I install is Ansell. They do Calinor in warm and cool white. I've got them all down a drive and washing up trees etc on a hotel. Most of them have been facing the sky for 6 years and she thus far survived the Scottish elements
I know how you feel we have been really cold here lately and we have been getting snow here too.
Here in belgium we dont fix boxes with screws we always use white stuff called knauf and it works great never had a box come loose even after 50+ years
These cheap floodlights are cheaper because they use less LED cobs and over drive them, so they are proper bright and pull the full amount of energy and heat up a lot. But they last way less than a proper floodlights. You can mod a 100W cheap floodlight to use 50 to 60% of the power so they last forever without issues even if you get less light.
1:52 The same case of San Pellegrino water at Costco here in the USA is over $20 now. I guess shipping water from there to here with as expensive as shipping containers are is the reason! 🤦♂️😊🍻
@Thomas Nagy could the flickering LED panels have been caused by the low outside temperatures ? .. and bringing them back to the warmer warehouse is what made them work again.
Collingwood FL03 have a selector on the back you can choose warm cool or daylight
I was about to suggest sending it to Big Clive and as I scroll down the man himself is there!
Was that Betty crockers drive way?😄
I was gunna ask what else is on the circuit. I have a couple lamps over benches that get a bit unhappy and flicker like that when I put a load on like a vacuum cleaner or heaters (3d printers) on the same circuit. IDK the answer but could spark an idea, voltage doesnt change, frequency appears to stay the same, tho kilowatt could be showing smoothed numbers.
Collin wood stock a flood light and you can change the colour on it from warm white to cool white. screw fix are stocking them at the moment.
If you want to change the colour of the light, and you can open it, you could try a photographic gel (plastic sheet) inside and convert from the cool white to warm white, you'll lose a bit of power output and you'll need to be careful of heat (although you can get heat resistant ones too).
And lose any warranty you might have had.
Regarding the gel... I spoke to a rep from Wiska at Elex last month who enlightened me about why IP66 boxes get wet inside. It is due to pressure differentials throughtout the year. Inside the box, being a vacuum, draws in moisture from the air from chages between hot weather and cold weather causing condensation inside the box BUT they have an answer to boxes above ground (not buried under ground which do need gel) in the form of VentGland or VentPlug which equalise the pressure throughout the year.
I work in a wet environment and they say a box is ip rated until you drill a hole in it. After that as you say the atmospheric conditions heating cooling and water vapour cause water ingress.
Hang on.: You say that the inside of the box contains a vacuum - yes? - So how does a box that contains a vacuum draw in moisture from the air? If that were the case then the vacuum seal would have to be broken first.
@@Sharron-Idol that is what was explained to me as being the case - the seal is broken by the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to warming up and cooling down and drawing in the moist air which condensates inside it.
@@olly7673 I understand what you're saying and the point you're making; but vacuum it is not. :)
@@Sharron-Idol a better term would be "sealed", or as wiska put it, "hermetically sealed"
Have you checked the supply Voltage at the tree 🎄..?
Cheaper fittings have less voltage tolerances than expensive ones...
That's why it'll work fine in the workshop because short cable runs...
Long cable runs in the garden = volt drop...
TLC are great for warm white floodlights - they do 10, 30, 50 & 100W. They're all I fit now 👍
I work on store signs , converting them from neon to led and we change the 💩 out of the led drivers . I seen them go bad as fast at I got home and the driver went . Or they start blinking = bad driver .
I was surprised to see that in your warehouse full of electrical equipment stock, you didn't have a spare 13A plug 😂 Great video
Them items of stock are chargeable, to be used on jobs only.
Do you even contract?
We get 30 and 50 watt osram floods in 3000k , they do exist , love the videos mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
We typically put a gel junction box under the metal trunk of these Bega lights because most of them don’t allow two lines to go in and shorten the attached blue Kabel a bit but leave enough so that you can pull the cans out of their trunk. To be honest we don’t know how that could be done better, except of the metal trunks allow to connect the lines in their again….
And warm white floodlights we use A lot of ledvance/ osram and another companie I currently don’t know the name…
Yes sir Mr Nagy I got pack of sweets and gonna enjoy this what more could as for on Monday !!!!
Might be the rectifying circuit that is under a certain voltage and causes flickering. I once had a light that flickers when the line and neutral was swopped.
On the driveway lights with the failed underground cable... it looks like you've got three core (2 + earth) flex.
Would it be an option to work out which of the cores are faulty, say there's a line-earth short, connect them together and swap the whole thing to 12 or 24V? So your brown and yellow/green would be +12 and your blue would be 0. Or whatever combination of cables that makes it function.
You'd have to be very careful to label everything, oversleeve, put an obvious sticker where it's fed from saying "it's like this because" etc. etc. but it might work.
That's only a temporary workaround. Soon the connections in the water filled box will corrode away.
No, it doesn't work that way, the cross-sectional area with 12V would have to be a LOT larger to carry the required current.
@@mrfrenzy. you're quite right, I hadn't considered that aspect!
Not that the original install was done in such a way to make it anything close to permanent 😅
@@mikeZL3XD7029 if you've got 6 lamps at 3W each running at 24V it's less than an amp. And the cable looked like it could have been 1.5mm so that doesn't seem too out of whack?
Clearly a 50W halogen at each point is going to be problematic!
Maybe minstrels for a dispensing chocolate?
Philips ledinaire do warm white, nice tidy unit. Only fitted cool white but been reliable for me so far!
Tom do you have lutron panel on this job with floodlights? That may cause problem, I had this before with led. Will require new module in DB
I know over time they get quite rusty and they are inefficient, but if you wanted a warm white floodlight use a 500w halogen one. They are Super bright and warm white
Those drill bits look interesting.. any reason to get the hex shanked ones over normal rounded if to be used in a standard drill ? Have seen the do a 4 pack round or 5 pack hex - would you expect the same quality of both?
They're not your average bits, they're the Bosch multipurpose (I'm sure they used to be called multi construction) bits that are designed in such a way they can be used without hammer. They can also drill things other than brick.
You can use them in a screwdriver or similar, the Bosch 12V screwdriver is basically a drill with no chuck.
They make non hex ones too.
Colingwood do cct ones just got a switch on it and can change colour to what you want 👌
Have you considered a filter or something to diffuse the light?
Only ever had flickering led lights once I think it was because they were in the van over night and we're cold when they were on a while they were ok
We make led floodlights in power outputs up to 10000 lumens polycarb bodies and replaceable boards and driver colour temps down to 2400k. Not the cheapest but every component driver board etc etc is replaceable so pretty economical in the long run, we hate the idea of all the work going into making and shipping these products and they just end up in the bin.
Water finds its own width !!! I have been making IP rated products for over 25 years it's hard !!!! Love the Gel connectors simple effective solution.
Try Hudson lighting for decorative lighting. Support British 🇬🇧🇬🇧
They also manufacture wiska spikes for mounting boxes on outdoors
Collingwood do a flood light range that are CCT and you can set the colour temp switch on the back. We use them all the time now and they are quite reasonably priced. Decent warranty on them too👍
We have been using Collingwood floods from Electric Center, switchable from cold to warm really nice fittings to install
I know it should not make a difference but I have had flickering fluorescent lights which was cured by swopping round the wires (live and neutral) I don't know if leds would be the same
Flicker will be from electrical noise from the supply or items on the supply feed.
Out of interest was the LED transformer on the supply feed for the flood light.
Those cheap LED lights have no smoothing in the circuit usually so that could cause the flicker.
There should be a jar at the unit so that everytime Tom says "You know" he puts a quid in it. When it's full, donate it.
Make more with one for repeating himself 😄 Great presentation.
Use a wiska box to mix the gel poor it back in the jug mark the line for that size wiska box saves wasting to much and speeds it up 👌
The Waterproof gel is an excellent idea it's the first time I've seen it. Just wondering would clear silicone do the same job, as it's non conducting & Waterproof?
Cowboy job more like use the gel best stuff ever
I love watching your videos every week and I love them but please change the lamp in the light in the kitchen area of the unit please hahahaha it’s making my brain go nuts 😂😂😂 but seriously I love watching every week .
Didn’t realise what you said until now 🤣🤣🤣 thanks for all your help! ❤️ from George @ GoBob
Did the forklift charge ok?
@@Fanta.... yes it did, I think Thomas Nagy should start up his own emergency recovery service for electric warehouse machinery 🤣
Flicker on the floodlight will be the cheapo power supply inside. If you fancy tinkering just put a quality capacitor on the PSU output. That will smooth it and take the flicker out.
True. But it'll also increase the mean voltage, which could cause premature failure.
Thinking about the flicker, what is the voltage drop on site? Could that induce the flicker?
Another great video has always Thomas 👍👌
Check the earth wire inside its either poked under something or not connected at all.
I have 2 of those floods which I use indoors with plugs on the flex. They don’t flicker , but, they do get hot enough they you can’t touch them. I can’t imagine they’ll last that long in that condition.
Agree regarding the boxes and grip filling…has an apprentice put them in on first fix and had the same issue with a single skin wall and grip filled in…but put them in so pissed it was like a diamond! Had to yank them out and it was a nightmare!
I got a tri-colour floodlight in CEF last month. Collingwood I think, bought it for the warm white option.
I am sure you can get a collingwood fitting which you can choose the light output I am supposed to be fitting one tomorrow and collingwood gear is usually very good cef sell them don't get why they would not have told you. Been loving the content, a real spark showing how all good electricians work none of this fake stuff telling us we should never work on a live cu and lots of other rubbish that is not realistic for us to do.
Hi Tom ,
I am an electrician from Scotland and I personally use the Collingwood flood lights as they are colour changeable as well as very robust fittings, a bit on the pricey range but I have fitted many of them and so far no call backs. Worth a try if you get a chance out of CEF.
I use the gel in boxes too just perfect only don’t forget to tighten the nuts 😭
Thought this was a big Clive video from the title
Could those LED panels have such a lousy driver circuit that it jams RCDs like a D-Lok? If so, it'd be worth checking that it's wired properly and not got N-E reversed (which would work fine on TN-S or TN-C-S but would not be happy on a TT supply).
Collingwood do floods that you can switch between 3k,4k,5k good fittings I’ve fitted a few
Try a normal cool white light and then use a filter / fitting over the led panel? Like vinyl or something? Maybe increase the wattage to cover for the reduction of light
Those cheap led fittings are usually over driven hard & all the ones I've used have lasted about 13 months (typical) & then one led chip will fail & drag the rest down so it'll flicker or run dim
The flickering will be because of a voltage drop that affects this brand but not all led lights
Like Clive said he has dealt with a few of those types.. i recon the voltage at the JB was just low enough to be an issue for the driver circuit. In fairness those 2 look better quality than the ones Clive took apart.. defo check the earth like Clive mentioned.
Send the dodgy flickering floodlights to Big Clive for a twardown
You should have measured the voltage exactly at the point of termination with a decent multimeter for those lights. It may be that voltage was out of their range, so volt drop maybe a factor. A lot of electronics requires between 220v and 240. I have seen electronic equipment that has stated 230v and that’s that. Come in any lower and it won’t work right or won’t last long
OTOH, the grid is allowed to fluctuate quite a bit (+/-10%, i.e.between 207 and 253 V)t and devices connected to it must be capable of dealing with it.
Check the voltage on your sockets in the unit compared to the tree location
That's a BT DP. The wires are phone lines!!
Could it be dirty power that is causing those LED flood lights to flicker, internal driver could just be unable to deal with that and flicker whereas the other lights with better LED drivers is able to handle the dirty power?
You sure you dont have a fair vdrop by the time you get to that light Tom? Would probably explain the flickering if it was to low.... Imagine would effect some makes / models and not others, just depends on how good / bad the fittings are.... Could also explain why that LED strip driver wasnt working?! Might have been right on the voltage limit and happened to be ok again when new one went in, just a thought!
Could you use a bright white light and use a film to warm the colour? Or do high power LEDs put out too much heat that could damage/melt/explode the film?
Floodlight, low mains voltage? Same as the LED driver?
All the coffee area needs…. Is some coffee!! Cant see a machine. Only some warmer thing from your grans house
Hi Tom have you tried Collingwood floodlights they are switchable and not badly priced
KSR do a warm white floodlight, with colour changing buttons on the back
Gripfill: Sorry mate, tried that stuff on a job, very, very not good. Took ages to go off, and until it did, the box moved around on the wall; so running cables into it was a no go.
Expanding foam however, very fckn good. Use that stuff whenever poss. if you've got a line of accessories in a row, that stuff's great for setting them up properly, keeping them exactly where you want them.
Jolly good, carry on 😁
TLC do a warm white LED floodlight 100w, but you pay for it though £80+VAT
I've had that jacket for three years, on the red setting you must been boiling in that warehouse😅
love the video keep up the good work