I really like the way you explain things; right to the point and always reminding of the little details that are easily overlooked. At the end of this one, I feel like I had hours worth of instruction that was condensed down to only twenty minutes. Thanks.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed my video and my teaching style! Actually you just got years of experience in 20 min....lol. if you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Perfect timing for this video. I have a seized caliper on the front of my Avalanche. Brakes are intimidating but watching you do everything helps a lot. Great videos man. Love your channel
Awesome, glad you enjoyed the video! If you have a seized caliper, you're going to have to replace it and if the other caliper is the same age and looks rough, I would change both. You'll have to bleed your brakes after too and I have a great video on that coming soon too. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
Love your channel. Hearing you speak, there's no doubt that you are a Canadian. Love that accent. I live in Missouri, and while we do have salt in the winter, it's not nearly as bad as up in the North. That sure makes it easier to work on older cars. I have no pulsations on my 2015 impala with 75,000 miles on it. Would you recommend having them machine the rotors anyway? They only have very minor grooves, so I think they are worth resurfacing. I get a kind of roaring sound when applying my brakes at highway speeds, and even though my pads aren't worn out, I'm assuming this is a sign that they are getting thin maybe? No pulsation with that sound.
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the content! You'll have to check with a dial indicator to rule out no warped rotors. If those are ok, then check for stuck slider pins/ uneven wear on inner/outer pads. If the rotors are just slightly worn, there is no need to machine them, especially if they are not warped. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
You'll enjoy the video, I show how to do all of the methods but yeah my favorite method I'd pressure bleeding. I use a Speedibleed setup and it works great. Thanks for the good suggestion. Cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the Way of the Wrench!
I did my rotor and pads, but my question is when I want to tight the nut screw in caliper, the slider pin spin and I can't tight, I have to get some wrench to hold that slider pin to tight the nut screw and it's tight. but my question it's is normal if that spin or the slider pin it's not working, or it's loose, or what do you think it's is the problem Mr.Teacher 🙏🏽
There is a flat spot built into the end of the slider pin so you can stop it from spinning when tightening the caliper bolt. Make sure they are torqued to the correct specs as those like to brake. Good luck. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!
Perfect timing! Root beer and warped brake....how does he do it? Lol. Glad I was able to help you out. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I gotta get me one of those dial indicators. Pretty nifty. I have a question. I did my father in-laws 08 Kia sportage. I put knew pads on it front and back. The back ones still sound like they are grinding. I’m a decent back yard mechanic but I don’t know why it’s doing it. I haven’t pulled the wheel back off yet to look at why it’s happening. The back of the rotors had some wear to them but I’ve had way worse that were fine. My thought is that because of the dust shield being a full face one and it covers the entire backside of the rotor maybe brake dust and dirt is getting loaded up in there and sounding like it’s grinding when the brakes are applied. I’m sure when I pull the wheel back off I’ll see what’s going on but I’m busy and if someone has an idea right it could save some time
Yeah dial indicators are pretty useful. To be honest, I'd check your rear brake pad install. New pads should not make grinding noises. Sounds like you might have put the pads in backwards and the steel backing on the pads are against the rotors. It could happen. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I have several steering issues with my 07 cobalt, my steering wheel and pedals vibrates very badly while braking at higher speed and especially while braking and turning! My pads have are new and the rotors are only one maybe two years old... Just got 4 new tires in April...
If it's only when braking, then I would suspect you have warped rotors. I would also take a look at my steering components inspection video as you might also have worn steering components that are shaking the steering wheel. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
Most vehicles I’ve had used different brakes (drums often) for the parking brake as compared to the rear service brakes. So, the parking brake test won’t tell you much with those vehicles.
Yeah some cars have internal parking drum brakes and rear disk brakes but not every vehicle. Another thing to think about is the front brakes do 90% of the braking so usually they are the ones that are warped. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I got this situation: - after changing my pads at the local dealer, my brakes start loosing their bite, and it wasnt only at first, i allowed them to break in ....just the car wouldnt stop like it did. - after that, at high speeds above 180km/h and heavy breaking i have steering wheel woble.....this doesnt happen at lower speeds below 150km/h - i mostly drive outside town, at high speeds, but im not a heavy breaker. Do you think it is because of warped discs?
It could be that they used a different pad with worse friction material or there is something wrong with your brake system such as a power brake booster leaking. 180km/hr!!! You speed demon you! If you're driving that hard you might have dumped a lot of speed and warped your brakes at one point. Only way to check is how I did it in the video. Time for an inspection! Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench Thank you for the fast and on point reply! I'll have to check them as you did in video, i got the tools and a garage from my old dad. Hope its only warped disc, my worst nightmare is the power brake booster leaking .....do you have a video on checking that maybe? Ive subbed and ill enjoy watching your videos sir, glad i found your channel!
Sweet, thanks for the sub! No video on power brakes but you can test by shutting car off and pumping brakes a bunch and then holding brake pedal with moderate strength. Then turn the car on and the pedal should drop a little if it's working ok. If not, then you don't have power brakes. Cheers!
Rotors warp due to uneven braking (seized caliper/stuck sliders), severe temperatures due to racing or dragging brakes, riding the brakes, holding very hot brakes after elevated temperatures, ect. The front of the car does 90% of the braking so usually they are the ones that get warped. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Curious why you replaced the caliper vs rebuild it.. Lets face it.. A caliper rebuild is cheap quick and easy... Ive seen you turning rotors to avoid the whole r&r culture... Then see you just replace a rebuildable part. Just wondering why you recommend one way in one video and another way in an other... Its less probable that somone has a brake late handy, but a caliper rebuild is something anyone can do on their bench or tailgate.. Just sayin.. Conflicting. Methods..
In the video I explained that the customer wanted new calipers rather than rebuilt so that is what was put on. Plus it will allow me to make a separate caliper rebuild video later so this one wouldn't be so long. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench gotcha.. I must have missed that explanation... Makes sense... Like your vids.. Wish more of the youngsters would pay attention... Getting to the point where I just don't care anymore... Lol.. Thanks for the content...
I really like the way you explain things; right to the point and always reminding of the little details that are easily overlooked. At the end of this one, I feel like I had hours worth of instruction that was condensed down to only twenty minutes. Thanks.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed my video and my teaching style! Actually you just got years of experience in 20 min....lol. if you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Very good video. Almost makes me want to do my own brake job...almost.
You keep watching my videos and I'll get you wrenching on a car, welding your own projects, and building a vpin! Thanks for the watch! Cheers!
Perfect timing for this video. I have a seized caliper on the front of my Avalanche. Brakes are intimidating but watching you do everything helps a lot. Great videos man. Love your channel
Awesome, glad you enjoyed the video! If you have a seized caliper, you're going to have to replace it and if the other caliper is the same age and looks rough, I would change both. You'll have to bleed your brakes after too and I have a great video on that coming soon too. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
Love your channel. Hearing you speak, there's no doubt that you are a Canadian. Love that accent. I live in Missouri, and while we do have salt in the winter, it's not nearly as bad as up in the North. That sure makes it easier to work on older cars. I have no pulsations on my 2015 impala with 75,000 miles on it. Would you recommend having them machine the rotors anyway? They only have very minor grooves, so I think they are worth resurfacing. I get a kind of roaring sound when applying my brakes at highway speeds, and even though my pads aren't worn out, I'm assuming this is a sign that they are getting thin maybe? No pulsation with that sound.
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the content! You'll have to check with a dial indicator to rule out no warped rotors. If those are ok, then check for stuck slider pins/ uneven wear on inner/outer pads. If the rotors are just slightly worn, there is no need to machine them, especially if they are not warped. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
For the brake bleed video, I use the Power Bleeder. Little product from Amazon that lets you bleed brakes by yourself.
You'll enjoy the video, I show how to do all of the methods but yeah my favorite method I'd pressure bleeding. I use a Speedibleed setup and it works great. Thanks for the good suggestion. Cheers.
great video
Glad you enjoyed it! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the Way of the Wrench!
I did my rotor and pads, but my question is when I want to tight the nut screw in caliper, the slider pin spin and I can't tight, I have to get some wrench to hold that slider pin to tight the nut screw and it's tight. but my question it's is normal if that spin or the slider pin it's not working, or it's loose, or what do you think it's is the problem Mr.Teacher 🙏🏽
There is a flat spot built into the end of the slider pin so you can stop it from spinning when tightening the caliper bolt. Make sure they are torqued to the correct specs as those like to brake. Good luck. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!
How did he know I wanted a root beer? I have a friend who just warped their rotors. Timing was impeccable
Perfect timing! Root beer and warped brake....how does he do it? Lol. Glad I was able to help you out. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Sure!
Sweet, thanks! I appreciate your support for the channel! Cheers!
I gotta get me one of those dial indicators. Pretty nifty. I have a question. I did my father in-laws 08 Kia sportage. I put knew pads on it front and back. The back ones still sound like they are grinding. I’m a decent back yard mechanic but I don’t know why it’s doing it. I haven’t pulled the wheel back off yet to look at why it’s happening. The back of the rotors had some wear to them but I’ve had way worse that were fine. My thought is that because of the dust shield being a full face one and it covers the entire backside of the rotor maybe brake dust and dirt is getting loaded up in there and sounding like it’s grinding when the brakes are applied. I’m sure when I pull the wheel back off I’ll see what’s going on but I’m busy and if someone has an idea right it could save some time
Yeah dial indicators are pretty useful. To be honest, I'd check your rear brake pad install. New pads should not make grinding noises. Sounds like you might have put the pads in backwards and the steel backing on the pads are against the rotors. It could happen. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I have several steering issues with my 07 cobalt, my steering wheel and pedals vibrates very badly while braking at higher speed and especially while braking and turning! My pads have are new and the rotors are only one maybe two years old... Just got 4 new tires in April...
If it's only when braking, then I would suspect you have warped rotors. I would also take a look at my steering components inspection video as you might also have worn steering components that are shaking the steering wheel. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
Most vehicles I’ve had used different brakes (drums often) for the parking brake as compared to the rear service brakes. So, the parking brake test won’t tell you much with those vehicles.
Yeah some cars have internal parking drum brakes and rear disk brakes but not every vehicle. Another thing to think about is the front brakes do 90% of the braking so usually they are the ones that are warped. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I got this situation:
- after changing my pads at the local dealer, my brakes start loosing their bite, and it wasnt only at first, i allowed them to break in ....just the car wouldnt stop like it did.
- after that, at high speeds above 180km/h and heavy breaking i have steering wheel woble.....this doesnt happen at lower speeds below 150km/h
- i mostly drive outside town, at high speeds, but im not a heavy breaker.
Do you think it is because of warped discs?
It could be that they used a different pad with worse friction material or there is something wrong with your brake system such as a power brake booster leaking. 180km/hr!!! You speed demon you! If you're driving that hard you might have dumped a lot of speed and warped your brakes at one point. Only way to check is how I did it in the video. Time for an inspection! Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench Thank you for the fast and on point reply!
I'll have to check them as you did in video, i got the tools and a garage from my old dad.
Hope its only warped disc, my worst nightmare is the power brake booster leaking .....do you have a video on checking that maybe?
Ive subbed and ill enjoy watching your videos sir, glad i found your channel!
Sweet, thanks for the sub! No video on power brakes but you can test by shutting car off and pumping brakes a bunch and then holding brake pedal with moderate strength. Then turn the car on and the pedal should drop a little if it's working ok. If not, then you don't have power brakes. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Thank you so much for your reply! Im looking forward to seeing more videos from you!
You're very welcome, happy to help. Ya there's lots of great videos. Cheers!
What would make the rotor warp on the engine side
And would an uneven rotor cause a wobble when driving?
Rotors warp due to uneven braking (seized caliper/stuck sliders), severe temperatures due to racing or dragging brakes, riding the brakes, holding very hot brakes after elevated temperatures, ect. The front of the car does 90% of the braking so usually they are the ones that get warped. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Yeah it could but it would also cause a vibration during breaking as well.
Thank you for the response. Very helpful! @wayofthewrench
You're very welcome!
Mine was warped from new, possible machining fault
It's possible or when wheels were torqued on in not a star pattern or with an impact gun. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Curious why you replaced the caliper vs rebuild it.. Lets face it.. A caliper rebuild is cheap quick and easy... Ive seen you turning rotors to avoid the whole r&r culture... Then see you just replace a rebuildable part. Just wondering why you recommend one way in one video and another way in an other... Its less probable that somone has a brake late handy, but a caliper rebuild is something anyone can do on their bench or tailgate.. Just sayin.. Conflicting. Methods..
In the video I explained that the customer wanted new calipers rather than rebuilt so that is what was put on. Plus it will allow me to make a separate caliper rebuild video later so this one wouldn't be so long. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench gotcha.. I must have missed that explanation... Makes sense... Like your vids.. Wish more of the youngsters would pay attention... Getting to the point where I just don't care anymore... Lol.. Thanks for the content...
You and me both.... I'm a high school auto teacher....lol.