on the arm you mentioned i leave the valve open, lift and rest the lid on the padded bit of the arm, stop the pump obviously and then lift the hose out of the wort and itll syphon out and drop to top level of the wort which is lower than that arm/valve, either that or wrap a towel round the valve and when you lift the arm out itll dribble into the the towel and not down the side of the gf
Solution for no drips, before you turn the pump off, raise the hose out of the wort and hold it there, turn pump off, wait for wort to finish dripping out of the recirc hose, count to 10, close the valve, then remove recirc arm.
beer looks nice. Great advice about keeping it simple and proper yeast pitching! RE little bit of malt dripping on the pump, if you stop the pump with the tap open, it should drain below the joint.
When you stop the pump, leave the valve open for about 30 seconds with the hose out of the wort... Usually the wort will run back into the kettle - Stopping that annoying drip from the connection (Bugged me for months that did) - Same goes for the chiller, only leave it a bit longer - Also, highly recommend David Heath's camlock upgrade... :)
When I remove the mash hose, I usually wrap a big hand towel (paper towels can work too) at the bottom base of the tightening handle. once unscrewed, I slowly lift and flip up and that little bit of water gets soaked into the towel leaving the system mess free.
Cheers mate - will add this to the strategy. Also had another suggestion to leave the red valve open and slowly undo mash hose - the wort runs back into the grainfather. This seemed to work on last brew - thanks for watching
Nice vid. Mosaic is my favourite hop. hard to beat it. Tip about the recirc pipe spill after the mash, that done my head in for ages lol. once the pump is off, keep the valve open and give it a minute or so and any wort above the connection will flow back down the pipe. depending on grainbill, maybe a big sticky stout, i still get a slight bit of wort but nowhere near the sticky mess i did at the start of my grainfather days. cheers mate. subbed
I’ve only done 2 brews on the Grainfather so I could be talking utter bollocks here but I think if you turn the pump off, leave the quarter turn valve open by the time you remove the fitting the wart has back flowed down the line. I know there is a non return valve in there but this, by accident has worked for me a couple of times. Obviously once it’s off shut the valve I case you feel compelled to activate the pump again by accident. So either what I’ve described is a solution, or by some fluke it just appeared that way to me or my grainfather is defective. Planning a brew day this week so I will investigate this again.
Thanks mate - yeap has taken me ~40brews but the solution was simple. Just wait after the pump is off - don’t turn off value and then just remove recirc arm. Always simple things that can throw you . Thank a for watching - always open to new solutions
GREAT JOB MAN!!!!! GREAT CHOICE FOR THE MALT!!!! I checked the spec sheet for the malt. The spec sheet from Gladfield is great. Saccharification, 10 minutes. The malt is under modified. Under modified malt is rich in enzyme content. Kolbach determines modification. To soak the malt in hot water at a single temperature won't take advantage of the malts richness. Did you have to place the beer into a secondary fermenter? At 63C conversion takes place and when that happens secondary fermentation is needed. Beta is responsible for conversion. Beta converts glucose released by Alpha into complex types of sugar at 60-63C. During secondary fermentation yeast absorbs complex sugar and an enzyme within yeast converts the complex sugar back into glucose. Glucose is mainly responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. If conversion happened and the yeast didn't have a chance to go through the complex sugar it may do it in the bottle or keg. If the beer was primed with sugar the beer might over pressurize. The same if C02 is used for carbing. Probably best to keep the beer cool during storage, just in case. Test the relief once in awhile. Beer naturally carbonates during conditioning when yeast converts maltotriose into glucose. Sugar and C02 aren't really needed. If the beer is finishing a little dry and thin boil some of the mash. Boiling causes heat resistant, complex starch, amylopectin to burst and enter into the liquid quickly. Amylopectin contains A and B limit dextrin. Limit dextrin is responsible for body and mouthfeel. When the boiling mash is added back into the main mash Alpha liquefies the starch releasing limit dextrin, dextrinization. The pectin causes the mash to jell, gelatinization. Boiling the mash reduces protein gum and causes chemical precipitation to occur upstream of the wort boiler. Boiling the mash creates stabile extract, as well. The small portion can be temperature stepped before boiling it. The aroma of boiling mash is amazing. Stay parched my friend.
Great video. Enjoyed watching. One question. I noticed you used Mangrove Jack M44 for your yeast. Looked it up and it recommendeds fermentation at 18-23 degrees C. With that recommendation why are you fermentating in a fridge?
Thanks Rick. The fridge is actually temperature controlled and I can set whatever temperature I want. The insulation of the fridge gives great stability. For M44 I ferment at 20oC then after ferment complete I cold crash to 4oC to clarify beer. Works a treat. Thanks for watching
on the arm you mentioned i leave the valve open, lift and rest the lid on the padded bit of the arm, stop the pump obviously and then lift the hose out of the wort and itll syphon out and drop to top level of the wort which is lower than that arm/valve, either that or wrap a towel round the valve and when you lift the arm out itll dribble into the the towel and not down the side of the gf
Thanks mate - I have had lots of feedback on this and got it sorted now I believe. Thanks for watching
Brew talk and rain 10/10
Mate, only found your channel yesterday. Absolutely love it, get going on a brewshed update!
Cheers from Ireland
Thanks mate - yeap working on a brewshed update now. Keep an eye out
I use that same log book, such an improvement over a standard notebook.
I agree - its awesome
Solution for no drips, before you turn the pump off, raise the hose out of the wort and hold it there, turn pump off, wait for wort to finish dripping out of the recirc hose, count to 10, close the valve, then remove recirc arm.
Thanks mate - yeap have had a few suggestions on this. Last few brews have worked out ok - no drips. Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy brewing
For minimal leakage when removing the recirculatingarm after mashing, remove the ball and spring from the valve that did it for me👍💪🏻
Cheers mate . Yeap on to this now
beer looks nice. Great advice about keeping it simple and proper yeast pitching! RE little bit of malt dripping on the pump, if you stop the pump with the tap open, it should drain below the joint.
Thanks Stass - yeap cheers on the dripping wort - have fixed this now. Thanks for watching
This is exactly how I picture myself brewing when I'm retired
Don’t wait - do it now👍
When you stop the pump, leave the valve open for about 30 seconds with the hose out of the wort... Usually the wort will run back into the kettle - Stopping that annoying drip from the connection (Bugged me for months that did) - Same goes for the chiller, only leave it a bit longer - Also, highly recommend David Heath's camlock upgrade... :)
Thanks mate - yeap got the feedback for a few people. Thanks for your comment and for watching - happy brewing mate 👍🍻
When I remove the mash hose, I usually wrap a big hand towel (paper towels can work too) at the bottom base of the tightening handle. once unscrewed, I slowly lift and flip up and that little bit of water gets soaked into the towel leaving the system mess free.
Cheers mate - will add this to the strategy. Also had another suggestion to leave the red valve open and slowly undo mash hose - the wort runs back into the grainfather. This seemed to work on last brew - thanks for watching
Nice vid. Mosaic is my favourite hop. hard to beat it. Tip about the recirc pipe spill after the mash, that done my head in for ages lol. once the pump is off, keep the valve open and give it a minute or so and any wort above the connection will flow back down the pipe. depending on grainbill, maybe a big sticky stout, i still get a slight bit of wort but nowhere near the sticky mess i did at the start of my grainfather days. cheers mate. subbed
Jakes Craft Brewing - thanks mate yeah got some other feedback and have worked it out - taken years though. Thanks for watching and commenting 🍻👍
I’ve only done 2 brews on the Grainfather so I could be talking utter bollocks here but I think if you turn the pump off, leave the quarter turn valve open by the time you remove the fitting the wart has back flowed down the line. I know there is a non return valve in there but this, by accident has worked for me a couple of times. Obviously once it’s off shut the valve I case you feel compelled to activate the pump again by accident.
So either what I’ve described is a solution, or by some fluke it just appeared that way to me or my grainfather is defective.
Planning a brew day this week so I will investigate this again.
Thanks mate - yeap has taken me ~40brews but the solution was simple. Just wait after the pump is off - don’t turn off value and then just remove recirc arm. Always simple things that can throw you . Thank a for watching - always open to new solutions
GREAT JOB MAN!!!!! GREAT CHOICE FOR THE MALT!!!! I checked the spec sheet for the malt. The spec sheet from Gladfield is great. Saccharification, 10 minutes. The malt is under modified. Under modified malt is rich in enzyme content. Kolbach determines modification. To soak the malt in hot water at a single temperature won't take advantage of the malts richness.
Did you have to place the beer into a secondary fermenter?
At 63C conversion takes place and when that happens secondary fermentation is needed.
Beta is responsible for conversion. Beta converts glucose released by Alpha into complex types of sugar at 60-63C. During secondary fermentation yeast absorbs complex sugar and an enzyme within yeast converts the complex sugar back into glucose. Glucose is mainly responsible for primary fermentation and ABV.
If conversion happened and the yeast didn't have a chance to go through the complex sugar it may do it in the bottle or keg. If the beer was primed with sugar the beer might over pressurize. The same if C02 is used for carbing. Probably best to keep the beer cool during storage, just in case. Test the relief once in awhile. Beer naturally carbonates during conditioning when yeast converts maltotriose into glucose. Sugar and C02 aren't really needed.
If the beer is finishing a little dry and thin boil some of the mash. Boiling causes heat resistant, complex starch, amylopectin to burst and enter into the liquid quickly. Amylopectin contains A and B limit dextrin. Limit dextrin is responsible for body and mouthfeel. When the boiling mash is added back into the main mash Alpha liquefies the starch releasing limit dextrin, dextrinization. The pectin causes the mash to jell, gelatinization. Boiling the mash reduces protein gum and causes chemical precipitation to occur upstream of the wort boiler. Boiling the mash creates stabile extract, as well. The small portion can be temperature stepped before boiling it. The aroma of boiling mash is amazing.
Stay parched my friend.
Thanks mate no I didn’t use a secondary fermenter - it did turn out great. Thanks for watching and commenting 🍻and sharing your knowledge
Turn the pump off and leave the tap open and you get no spill when disconnecting.
Thanks mate - yeap have had a bit of feedback on this - thanks for watching
Great video. Enjoyed watching. One question. I noticed you used Mangrove Jack M44 for your yeast. Looked it up and it recommendeds fermentation at 18-23 degrees C. With that recommendation why are you fermentating in a fridge?
Thanks Rick. The fridge is actually temperature controlled and I can set whatever temperature I want. The insulation of the fridge gives great stability. For M44 I ferment at 20oC then after ferment complete I cold crash to 4oC to clarify beer. Works a treat. Thanks for watching