Yes, we're just limited on glue for clear parts and didn't want to take away from our existing stock. We were also just using scrap parts for demonstration purposes only!
I’m trying to ingest as much information as I can as my first WW2 model plane will be here Tuesday. This video gives me “the aliens are after me and I have to go game over some Forrest Squirrels vibe” 😂😂
For CA application, I dremel cut half of the eye of a sewing needle to get a "U" shaped end that is about 1mm across. I stick the pointy end into a small pin vise. Deposit a drop or two of glue into an empty water bottle cap, the ones on 1/2 liter plastic bottles. You can then dip your needle into the glue and apply it precisely where you want it without making a mess. Keep a small candle burning next to you because as the glue accumulates and/or hardens, you stick the "U" into the flame and it burns the stuff off completely. And I try to use only the yellow Tamiya tape exclusively! Hope this helps gents!
After 60 years of building the first thing is to buy a quality kit number one. A Tamiya 1/48 aircraft kit for example and basic modeling tools. A good hobby knife, brushes and water based paints. Stick with liquid glue and forget the super glues. We all know time on the bench makes a good modeler and remember it is a HOBBY, not a job. Take care, good video. Cheers.
I started out with the Academy Warspite I had build a few little kits like the R35 from Tamiya and the Cutty Sark and Whaler from Academy and that first tip is great, I was way in over my head especially as some of the parts had fit issues. Please do research before buying a kit, I bought a revell tugboat expecting a fairly good build and ended up with a 1950s tooling and 30 dollars gone from my wallet. Keep on trucking, Greetings from across the Northumberland from PEI.
My first military scale model kit was a 1/35th scale Maus kit by Takom. The tracks alone were around 300 pieces while the main hull and turret was almost another 200 pieces. It was more so tedious than anything because the kit was super easy to put together. Only annoying thing was how much glue I had to use. Really most kits aren't that hard as the real difficulty lies mainly in having to paint them.
Yep, the problem isn't necessarily the difficulty for beginners but the tedious nature of some kits! And as a result, we experience returns! Tho we do give plenty of credit to the ones that stayed and persevered. Overtime, they'll learn the difference between a hard kit and just a long (build time) one
Number 5 is probably the most important along with the realization is the more practice you get the better your results. Don't worry about screwing up. Don't let indecision or worry about messing up get in the way of improving and enjoying the hobby.
I'd also add a number 6: "Not asking questions" There's no shame or anything wrong with asking if a kit is good for your skill level, or which one would someone recommend, how to do some technique or what mistakes you did based on a picture, does a paint brand work well with brushing or what thinning ratio is a good starting point for it etc. Scale modelling community is very helpful, and very often people working at hobby stores are willing to help you out.
Your observation on Dragon ship kits is spot on. You need the eyesight of a neurosurgeon to successfully complete those kits. Another recommendation for a beginner ship kit is Tamiya's 1/350 Fletcher
Speaking of mistakes - I've just spent 4 months building the ancient Monogram F101 Voodoo. Awful kit which fought me all the way - but........I finally got it to the paint stage. I like doing 'what ifs' so I airbrushed it in the RAF early 1970s scheme of dark sea grey/dark green camouflage with light aircraft grey undersides. Used Tamiya acrylics all the way, including gloss coat pre-decals. It was looking really good. Now for the mistake - the final coat was to be another acrylic gloss, as per the early 70s RAF finish, but I'd run out of Tamiya acrylic gloss. I had an old rattle tin of Humbrol acrylic gloss coat. I shook it for ages, and happily set about the final coat. WHICH HAS NEVER DRIED, it's remained very tacky ever since, and has ruined the model. Impossible to pick it up and of course every speck of dust sticks to it. Moral of the story - don't use old paint. I'm in two minds whether to bin the Voodoo, or strip it and start painting again.
The panic that sets in once they inevitably oversqueeze can be hilarious. If they're using tube (we tend to recommend tamiya instead) then oversqueezing is a rite of passage into the hobby 😂😂😂
The idea is to have FUN building model kits. So what if it doesn’t look like a million bucks! Been building for 70 years and I have had my share of non perfect kits, but I had fun.
That's such a shame 😢 though on the plus side, the hobby is very friendly! Go to a hobby store with tables and the odds of you making new friends goes up!
@@SunwardHobbiesToronto True, or even better: see if there is a modelclub near you. Instead of meeting ONE new friend once in a blue moon, all of a sudden you have a whole club full of new friends!
All of my models were built in a day until I was about 12 years old, I wanted to play war games with them! I learned to save a lot of my crappy builds and sometimes use them in kit bashes. I could have grafted that engine/propeller to replace Godzilla's head!
Whaaaat? Why would you crush one of your models you made when first starting out? Sounds like ego got the best of you. You’ll never be perfect, so might as well crush your latest build too because there’s always someone who can find flaws if they look hard enough. I have a handful of models that survived some 40+ years ago and I cherish them. No, they’re nothing quality-wise like now but neither were the kits nor techniques. But that doesn’t make them less valuable in my eyes. One thing noted from video but why suggesting using CA on clear parts? Or at all for that matter instead of thin acetone - unless you’re doing PE or a structural integrity part but we’re talking about someone just starting out so toss PE out the window along with a Dragon kit and the CA. I would never recommend someone just starting out to use CA as their primary glue which from the video is how it appears. Tamiya Extra Thin, MIG, etc. is much more forgiving and much more easier to handle regardless of build expertise. Add another mistake (if available in your area) - not searching for a nearby IPMS model club. Especially for someone just starting out they are a treasure trove of info and can all relate to your problems and most of all they’re not judgmental - unlike some of us.
Been building models since 1974, professionally since 2000. I have given away hundreds of my earlier stuff to nephews, neighbours kids and other modelers. Everybody is different, no need to act smug when people do things different than you. I do agree with you on (IPMS) modelclubs, nothing like meeting like minded model geeks. What is the latest model you've built?
Regarding CA glue on clear parts: We're just limited on glue for clear parts and didn't want to take away from our existing stock. We were also just using scrap parts for demonstration purposes only!
How many of the commenters don't realise that this is a "tongue in cheek" video and the guy is only acting? come on guys, lighten up, its meant to be funny and that's the way I took it to be.
Mistake #6: don't be hard on yourself when you make a mistake. Tip #1: instead of putting CA on your pin, put CA on an empty bottlecap/ box, and dip the pin into that.
Nunca armes aviones viejos porque las calcomanías se rompen al contacto con el agua. Hay tratar las calcomanías con una laca especial para calcomanías. Usa pegamento de la marca Revell con aplicador fino, para mejores resultados el pegamento de líquido que se aplique con brocha solo sirve si primero lo armas y luego lo pintas no al revés. Colocar contrapesos adecuados para que queden bien balanceados. Usar pintura a base de agua da mejor resultado. Tener herramientas adecuada para construir tú modelo. Y jugar con todo lo que hay de accesorios para tú modelo: Foto cortados Piezas en resina Kits de calcomanías E información necesaria para armar tú modelo fotos, videos, subirte directamente al avión si está a tu alcance. Y dejar salir todo tu ingenio para modificar modelos existentes. Y sobretodo mucha paciencia, si te estresas mejor para de armar. Ésa es mi recomendación.
You don't destroy the beginning of your model building. Why didn't he keep that? I watch many content creators on my hobby but I don't like this guy. He's sending the message to the beginners that your first model is full of mistakes that you might as well smash it ! And he has a nerdy demeanor ! There's so many better model builder videos out there !
It's just a skit and an example! Don't take it seriously. Also if you're watching this (and recommending other vids of the same topic), you're also a nerd... 😂😂 cmon man
never abuse your models, especially one of your firsts..its a journey and don't hate your beginning
You will learn to hate your beginnings with enough models under your belt. Pro tip: give them to your nephews/ sons, they will LOVE them.
Not true. I built my first model 45 years ago and still love it. No paint, just glued it together. 1970 Dodge Challenger
@@habbyguys Do you have so much storage space, or do I just build relatively quickly than? Since my mancave is packed to the brim!
David did it for the skit! He promises to repair the yak as only a side piece broke! The rest is still intact surprisingly
@@PanzerChicken69 I have only built around 100 models so far.
1:53 Isn't using the wrong type of glue with clear plastic parts also a mistake? That window looks really cloudy.
Yes, we're just limited on glue for clear parts and didn't want to take away from our existing stock. We were also just using scrap parts for demonstration purposes only!
I’m trying to ingest as much information as I can as my first WW2 model plane will be here Tuesday.
This video gives me “the aliens are after me and I have to go game over some Forrest Squirrels vibe” 😂😂
For CA application, I dremel cut half of the eye of a sewing needle to get a "U" shaped end that is about 1mm across. I stick the pointy end into a small pin vise. Deposit a drop or two of glue into an empty water bottle cap, the ones on 1/2 liter plastic bottles. You can then dip your needle into the glue and apply it precisely where you want it without making a mess. Keep a small candle burning next to you because as the glue accumulates and/or hardens, you stick the "U" into the flame and it burns the stuff off completely.
And I try to use only the yellow Tamiya tape exclusively!
Hope this helps gents!
@IJNavy oh yes this is a GREAT tip!
After 60 years of building the first thing is to buy a quality kit number one. A Tamiya 1/48 aircraft kit for example and basic modeling tools. A good hobby knife, brushes and water based paints. Stick with liquid glue and forget the super glues. We all know time on the bench makes a good modeler and remember it is a HOBBY, not a job. Take care, good video. Cheers.
I build models for a living and largely avoid Tamiya kits and love CA. Nobody is perfect.
I started out with the Academy Warspite I had build a few little kits like the R35 from Tamiya and the Cutty Sark and Whaler from Academy and that first tip is great, I was way in over my head especially as some of the parts had fit issues. Please do research before buying a kit, I bought a revell tugboat expecting a fairly good build and ended up with a 1950s tooling and 30 dollars gone from my wallet. Keep on trucking, Greetings from across the Northumberland from PEI.
@BlemBormf Paul is about to do a part 2 to this video and the first tip notes says "scalemates"... 😁😁 research is VERY important!
This was awesome advice and funny as hell.
Thanks so much!
My first military scale model kit was a 1/35th scale Maus kit by Takom. The tracks alone were around 300 pieces while the main hull and turret was almost another 200 pieces. It was more so tedious than anything because the kit was super easy to put together. Only annoying thing was how much glue I had to use.
Really most kits aren't that hard as the real difficulty lies mainly in having to paint them.
Yep, the problem isn't necessarily the difficulty for beginners but the tedious nature of some kits! And as a result, we experience returns! Tho we do give plenty of credit to the ones that stayed and persevered. Overtime, they'll learn the difference between a hard kit and just a long (build time) one
Great tips eh! Thanks for sharing ✌🏻from Sudbury✌🏻
Thanks for watching!
Excellent advice!
Number 5 is probably the most important along with the realization is the more practice you get the better your results. Don't worry about screwing up. Don't let indecision or worry about messing up get in the way of improving and enjoying the hobby.
We see that indecision all the time!
I'd also add a number 6: "Not asking questions"
There's no shame or anything wrong with asking if a kit is good for your skill level, or which one would someone recommend, how to do some technique or what mistakes you did based on a picture, does a paint brand work well with brushing or what thinning ratio is a good starting point for it etc.
Scale modelling community is very helpful, and very often people working at hobby stores are willing to help you out.
@RacheyPL oh 💯% were actually planning on making a second part to this video and "ask questions" is on our notes! 😅😅
Your observation on Dragon ship kits is spot on. You need the eyesight of a neurosurgeon to successfully complete those kits. Another recommendation for a beginner ship kit is Tamiya's 1/350 Fletcher
That fletcher is such a good kit! Also dragon instruction manuals 🤮🤮🤮🤢
Speaking of mistakes - I've just spent 4 months building the ancient Monogram F101 Voodoo. Awful kit which fought me all the way - but........I finally got it to the paint stage. I like doing 'what ifs' so I airbrushed it in the RAF early 1970s scheme of dark sea grey/dark green camouflage with light aircraft grey undersides. Used Tamiya acrylics all the way, including gloss coat pre-decals. It was looking really good. Now for the mistake - the final coat was to be another acrylic gloss, as per the early 70s RAF finish, but I'd run out of Tamiya acrylic gloss. I had an old rattle tin of Humbrol acrylic gloss coat. I shook it for ages, and happily set about the final coat. WHICH HAS NEVER DRIED, it's remained very tacky ever since, and has ruined the model. Impossible to pick it up and of course every speck of dust sticks to it. Moral of the story - don't use old paint. I'm in two minds whether to bin the Voodoo, or strip it and start painting again.
That sounds like an absolutely terrible experience 😢😢 though on the positive side, you essentially leveled up in hobby experience!
@@SunwardHobbiesToronto Sure did!
i really love his "dry" approach to vids... (:
David is a loves British and Canadian humor! 😂
"Kit with a part count higher than the national debt" That's a funny one🤣And also, any beginer should avoid any model kit glue in a tube.
The panic that sets in once they inevitably oversqueeze can be hilarious. If they're using tube (we tend to recommend tamiya instead) then oversqueezing is a rite of passage into the hobby 😂😂😂
Gute Ratschläge 😊😊
The idea is to have FUN building model kits. So what if it doesn’t look like a million bucks! Been building for 70 years and I have had my share of non perfect kits, but I had fun.
Exactly!!
Does this include the spelling mistake?
@cluser212 wow we didn't even notice 🤣🤣🤣
Agree no.1. All my friends giving up modeling because of the difficulties they have underestimated.
That's such a shame 😢 though on the plus side, the hobby is very friendly! Go to a hobby store with tables and the odds of you making new friends goes up!
@@SunwardHobbiesToronto True, or even better: see if there is a modelclub near you. Instead of meeting ONE new friend once in a blue moon, all of a sudden you have a whole club full of new friends!
All of my models were built in a day until I was about 12 years old, I wanted to play war games with them! I learned to save a lot of my crappy builds and sometimes use them in kit bashes. I could have grafted that engine/propeller to replace Godzilla's head!
Kitbashing is the best!
Whaaaat? Why would you crush one of your models you made when first starting out? Sounds like ego got the best of you. You’ll never be perfect, so might as well crush your latest build too because there’s always someone who can find flaws if they look hard enough.
I have a handful of models that survived some 40+ years ago and I cherish them. No, they’re nothing quality-wise like now but neither were the kits nor techniques. But that doesn’t make them less valuable in my eyes.
One thing noted from video but why suggesting using CA on clear parts? Or at all for that matter instead of thin acetone - unless you’re doing PE or a structural integrity part but we’re talking about someone just starting out so toss PE out the window along with a Dragon kit and the CA. I would never recommend someone just starting out to use CA as their primary glue which from the video is how it appears. Tamiya Extra Thin, MIG, etc. is much more forgiving and much more easier to handle regardless of build expertise.
Add another mistake (if available in your area) - not searching for a nearby IPMS model club. Especially for someone just starting out they are a treasure trove of info and can all relate to your problems and most of all they’re not judgmental - unlike some of us.
Been building models since 1974, professionally since 2000. I have given away hundreds of my earlier stuff to nephews, neighbours kids and other modelers. Everybody is different, no need to act smug when people do things different than you.
I do agree with you on (IPMS) modelclubs, nothing like meeting like minded model geeks. What is the latest model you've built?
Regarding CA glue on clear parts: We're just limited on glue for clear parts and didn't want to take away from our existing stock. We were also just using scrap parts for demonstration purposes only!
At least Dave is a Habs fan.
@@georgehiotis he is indeed!
bro why the mig 3 😭
David will repair it eventually. Only a small side piece broke! Easy fix
You can definitely Use “Washi Tape.
How many of the commenters don't realise that this is a "tongue in cheek" video and the guy is only acting? come on guys, lighten up, its meant to be funny and that's the way I took it to be.
We're also surprised how literal it was taken! David is definitely in skit mode. Thanks for noticing!
"....that poor.....plane......" (:
Mistake #6: don't be hard on yourself when you make a mistake.
Tip #1: instead of putting CA on your pin, put CA on an empty bottlecap/ box, and dip the pin into that.
Great tip!
This. I use disposable paint palettes for both paint and glue for this very reason.
Nunca armes aviones viejos porque las calcomanías se rompen al contacto con el agua.
Hay tratar las calcomanías con una laca especial para calcomanías.
Usa pegamento de la marca Revell con aplicador fino, para mejores resultados el pegamento de líquido que se aplique con brocha solo sirve si primero lo armas y luego lo pintas no al revés.
Colocar contrapesos adecuados para que queden bien balanceados.
Usar pintura a base de agua da mejor resultado.
Tener herramientas adecuada para construir tú modelo.
Y jugar con todo lo que hay de accesorios para tú modelo:
Foto cortados
Piezas en resina
Kits de calcomanías
E información necesaria para armar tú modelo fotos, videos, subirte directamente al avión si está a tu alcance.
Y dejar salir todo tu ingenio para modificar modelos existentes.
Y sobretodo mucha paciencia, si te estresas mejor para de armar.
Ésa es mi recomendación.
This is amazing information! Thank you for the detailed message. We actually get a lot of customers trying to save their old decals.
and don't use CA on clear parts, it WILL mist them eventually!
💯 though if it's the only option, use toothpicks!
You don't destroy the beginning of your model building. Why didn't he keep that? I watch many content creators on my hobby but I don't like this guy. He's sending the message to the beginners that your first model is full of mistakes that you might as well smash it ! And he has a nerdy demeanor ! There's so many better model builder videos out there !
I'm sure you're not one of them
It's just a skit and an example! Don't take it seriously. Also if you're watching this (and recommending other vids of the same topic), you're also a nerd... 😂😂 cmon man
@@SunwardHobbiesToronto Who's the non nerd here, please identify yourself!
nooooooooooooo the yak
@MichaelKalpinski a necessary sacrifice (we cried)
@SunwardHobbiesToronto my heart is bleeding
No. Not your first model... :(
David promises to repair the yak!
this guy is rude 😮
He's just acting!
This guy is depressing to watch.....
Nuh uh!