Thanks that was an easy installation,not even messing with tdc. So easy,don't hesitate to do it yourself. An offset 9/16 wrench worked for the dist clamp on my 1990 5.0 with no ac or smog.Thanks again for making the video. My truck runs again
If on tdc, when putting the distributor back in, it doesn't matter which way the housing itself faces as long as the rotor faces #1 plug on the cap in which you can make #1 any spot on the cap at this point as long as the rotor is facing it. The rotor does not have to face #1 cylinder/spark plug hole on tdc, only on cap. Just thought I throw that out there since alot of people have that misconception when putting everything back together but good video over all
That is true and I've done that before. But on this distributor, I only had so much wiring for the connectors and wouldn't be able to turn it far enough if the rotor wasn't facing cylinder #1. Plus I needed the extra wiggle room to be able to time it correctly
@@jessievert On my 91 Silverado I had a little more room, so I the rotor didn't have to be perfect. But on my 95 Silverado I didn't have any wiggle room.
@@black91silverado82 yeah most of the time the two connectors from the coil & the harness I Believe it is that go into the distributor is short to begin with so I have no doubt if that that was part of issue you had for wiggle room, in which I have encountered myself in the past
@@jessievert I just got another engine in my 94 Chevy. It's a 305 so I take spark plug out and turn motor till I can see the piston in the spark plug hole?
Thanks for taking the time to make this. Doing this as well, pulled the cap and saw a corroded mess. Also see that you have already swapped out the heater inlet hose fitting! Not an easy job. Mine crumbled and threads were fused, had to tap out the 1/2” NPT threads.
On my 1990 crewcab i replaced distributor and i didn't have to remove the distributor 9/16 bolt completely out i just loosened enough for the bracket / clamp to slide back. Hope that helps save someone some time and aggravation.
Great video thank you. Also if anyone has a bolt stuck like I did looks like it wasn’t taken off for 30 years hit it with a blow torch and it’ll come right off I struggled for hours
I love how u was like thats where it was before then the camera jumps to a photo then comes back and the distribitor is turned to the correct position opposite side it was facing when u first put it in..lol good cover up
Move the oil pump shaft using a long screwdriver in order to align your new distributer into the previous firing position. Remember, both the rotor AND the base should be as close as possible to the replaced dist for the new one to fire up the eng then you can (disconnect the timing advance wire first) use the timing light to set exactly.
Pretty decent video and pretty informative. My only complaint is that I would’ve like to see you reassemble it and then start it up. Other than that decent video.👍🏾
Great video! I'm thinking I'm in for the same project on an old 95 Suburban of mine. As for the 9/16 distributor wrench, if a guy would make a version of that with a ratcheting end, he'd be able to retire that afternoon. :-)
we have a 94 k1500 suburban we replaced the distributor but we can not get it to turn over what could we have done wrong. my husband didn't get a picture of the original before taking off so we had to set tdc but still cant get it to turn over.
Will the engine turn over, just not start? I would make sure everything is connected and in the right order. Make sure the coil is connected and the 2 connectors on the distributor are plugged in. And make sure the distributor didn't jump a tooth or something. The engine will need to be at TDC on the exhaust stroke as well when you put the distributor back in.
After replacing the distributor the still wouldn’t start and the carburetor would smoke alittle? Could it be the carb or installed the distributor wrong?
Did you unplug the advance timing plug before you started it for the first time or when it was running? I have a 89 that I replaced all new distributor parts and it started right but when I cut it off and unplugged the advance timing plug to set timing, it would not start! Plug it back up and will start up!
I unplugged it before starting, then set the base timing and shut the engine off. Then plugged it back in and fired it back up. If you adjust the timing with it plugged in, the computer will compensate for your adjustments
@@gtuttle4I would say yes, If the timing isn't set correctly then you might lose gas mileage, foul out spark plugs, or lose engine power. You might not really notice any of that though. I have set the timing based on just listening to the engine before and have had no issues
@@gtuttle4 If its running good and you don't notice any issues, then I would keep running it like that. You can always check with a timing light if needed
Please help! I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice? It’s a 350 tbi.
Thanks for the video, I will be changing my distributor next week. Noticed you have headers are they shorty or midlength? How did that installation go?
Mine are long tube headers. I believe they are Hooker Comp headers that I got from Summit Racing. Installation wasn't too bad, if I remember correctly one side goes in from the top and the other side from the bottom. I had an issue getting my original manifolds off because a few of the bolts snapped off in the head. If I didn't have the bolt issue, then install would of been a breeze
I believe the coil is used in multiple different engines/vehicles, so the braces are for different applications. I had to drill the rivets out of my old coil to swap over the original bracket to the new coil. I dont believe you actually need the new braces....at least for my vehicle.
My truck has been acting weird for half a year and it just recently wouldn’t start and when I took the coil wire it was corroded as heck, were your terminals corroded as well?
The wires for my coil looked fine besides the one that had a cut in it. You should be able to buy a new wire harness for the coil to distributor. My spark plug wires were all also fine. The only "corrosion" I had would of been on the distributor cap, on each of the contacts for the rotor. My truck was having an issue where it would kind of hesitate around 1500-2000rpms and the rpms would jump around a little bit. Everything before and after that, it would run fine. I replaced a few other sensors as well as the distributor, so I'm not 100% sure what actually fixed my problem
@@black91silverado82 yeah I think my truck is a combo of cap corrosion and O2 sensor problems, im gonna replace those and if it still has problems im gonna assume fuel pump is making it not run
@@bannoch Is yours still OBD1? Thats what mine is, so its more difficult to track down issues that are going on. Usually just have to end up replacing a bunch of stuff before it runs right again
@@black91silverado82 I think so, I’ve just been casually getting new parts for it but recently it’s gotten worse so I’ve been “researching” on the internet
@@bannoch an intermittent pickup coil will produce both no spark and your injectors won't fire, also check your fuel filter if you do have spark. Check the coil with an ohm meter or dmm. Also double check your pickup coil to ignition module connection inside the distributor, those can get corroded and act up. Good luck.
I’m having problems with my 1994 Chevy I can’t get no spark changed the plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor bug, icm, ignition coil and still no spark
One thing is that the price on the Napa part is way off. These sell on eBay or Amazon for as low as $40. I priced one from Napa for $135. I bought one from Amazon for $65. Napa is just way wrong on their price.
You can yes, and that will get it pretty close. I have done it by ear before. It won't be perfect and your gas mileage and power might decrease but it will be enough to get it running and driving
@@black91silverado82 awesome I'm gonna have to do that tell I an get some .ore extra cash. I haven even got my distributor yet. But man am I glad I watched some videos lol
@@jonathancollins2535 I might have to do a video with timing my truck without a timing light. Never thought about doing that, but that's what I did before I bought a timing light. Usually you can get them from parts stores for like $30-50 for the cheaper wired ones
I have oil all through my distributor. Investigated it and says my o ring could be bad. I'm wondering if I can cut the o ring raise the distributor up just enough to get the new o ring on ? Do u think this is possible?
The correct way would be to remove the distributor to replace that small gasket since it is one whole piece. But you might be able to get away with barely lifting the distributor up and applying rtv to where the gasket goes. I have never done this, so I don't know how effective it will be. You will have to act somewhat fast and time your engine again so the rtv doesn't set before you are able to move it to the final spot
@@broken_bones_acres You might risk pulling the distributor out too far by trying to just pull it up a little and sealing that gasket. And if you pull it up too far then you might as well remove it completely. And replace the gasket. Your hold down clamp could also be a little loose, causing the oil to go through the gasket and leaking out
@@black91silverado82 yea that's what I'm afraid of. It doesn't look easy to do it the way I want to. I'll definitely check the bolt to see if it's loose
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP4605 From rock auto I believe is the side that connects to the coil. STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TX3A From rock auto should be the side that connects to the distributor. Both were found on Rockauto and one was under "Electrical-Connector.....ICM connector" the other was under "Ignition Coil Connector". There are different brands and prices too
I dont think I NEEDED to replace the distributor. I just had a few issues that would come up when it was raining where my rpms would jump up and down at lower speeds. I tried multiple things to fix it and nothing would work. Then as I was replacing the Ignition Control Module, one of the small bolts broke off. Only way for me to fix it correctly would of been to remove the distributor and drill out the bolt. I figured if I'm removing the distributor, then I'm replacing it. My truck has 250,000 miles on it and the distributor is most likely original. Only cost $120 and now I don't have to worry about the distributor for a long while anymore. Plus it resolved my issue
@@black91silverado82 thanks for replying my truck injectors don't prime when I turn on the truck check everything is good, bad distributor can b a issue??
@@oscarmunoz3549 is your fuel pump not priming or the injectors? I don't think the injectors prime on s 350 non vortec engine. I think they only fire when the engine is turned over
@@oscarmunoz3549 Only your fuel pump should prime when you turn the key on, and it only primes for a couple seconds until it reads oil pressure or rpms. If you're not getting any fuel when you try to start it then it wouldn't be the distributor causing the issue. I'm not sure what your issue could be without more information
Wow your 100 % setting people up for failure, if you dont mark the exact position of where the rotor button was in reference to the lower half of distibutor cap and someone watching this video does what you just did your gonna completly screw them over with you instructions and it may start but then itll fall on its face under load ....if you not going to show them how to do this correctly and put the engine at top dead center on the compression stroke and then see where the rotor button if facing which it should have landed on the #1 spark plug wire ,then people need to know you need to mark exactly where the rotor button is sitting when you just pull the distributor out ,otherwise youll be screwed....your 100% changing the timing by it not going back in exactly the way it came out....MUST GO BACK IN EXACTLY THE SAME.... ,NOT "I THINK" OR "IM PRETTY SURE"....your gonna screw up alot of people with the wrong instructions....and if fate wouldnt have it i just had a customer watch your video ,tryied to do this by pretty close term, screwed it up and tryied to start the motor , and once you start the motor with the distributor in the wrong spot its game over ,you have to start from scratch and get the motor at top dead center.on the compression stroke, both #1 valves are closed and then make your distributor drop in with rotor at the#1 plug....and if it wont turn the oil pump untill it does drop in at #1...
This is what i nornally do: Remove cylinder 1 spark plug Put a small piece of tissue loosely in the spark plug hole Rotate engine over with a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the piece of tissue gets pushed out. This will get you close to top dead center on the exhaust stroke. You can carefully use a screwdriver to "feel" the top of the cylinder, and continue to rotate the engine until the cylinder is as high as it will go before going back down. You should also be able to see the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and it should line up with the timing tab thats bolted to the timing chain cover. I hope this helps
Please help! I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice? It’s a 350 tbi.
I’m impressed with your video. Usually people start just past the point I’m looking for. Thank you for the clear instructions.
I'm glad I could help!
Thanks that was an easy installation,not even messing with tdc. So easy,don't hesitate to do it yourself. An offset 9/16 wrench worked for the dist clamp on my 1990 5.0 with no ac or smog.Thanks again for making the video. My truck runs again
Glad my video could help out!
If on tdc, when putting the distributor back in, it doesn't matter which way the housing itself faces as long as the rotor faces #1 plug on the cap in which you can make #1 any spot on the cap at this point as long as the rotor is facing it. The rotor does not have to face #1 cylinder/spark plug hole on tdc, only on cap. Just thought I throw that out there since alot of people have that misconception when putting everything back together but good video over all
That is true and I've done that before. But on this distributor, I only had so much wiring for the connectors and wouldn't be able to turn it far enough if the rotor wasn't facing cylinder #1. Plus I needed the extra wiggle room to be able to time it correctly
@@black91silverado82had the same happen here once or twice on some sbc's , I try to keep it as close to factory as possible
@@jessievert On my 91 Silverado I had a little more room, so I the rotor didn't have to be perfect. But on my 95 Silverado I didn't have any wiggle room.
@@black91silverado82 yeah most of the time the two connectors from the coil & the harness I Believe it is that go into the distributor is short to begin with so I have no doubt if that that was part of issue you had for wiggle room, in which I have encountered myself in the past
@@jessievert I just got another engine in my 94 Chevy. It's a 305 so I take spark plug out and turn motor till I can see the piston in the spark plug hole?
Thanks for taking the time to make this. Doing this as well, pulled the cap and saw a corroded mess. Also see that you have already swapped out the heater inlet hose fitting! Not an easy job. Mine crumbled and threads were fused, had to tap out the 1/2” NPT threads.
Absolutely fantastic camera work. Thank you!
Very good , a lot of other videos to Shakey to actually see
On my 1990 crewcab i replaced distributor and i didn't have to remove the distributor 9/16 bolt completely out i just loosened enough for the bracket / clamp to slide back. Hope that helps save someone some time and aggravation.
Great video thank you. Also if anyone has a bolt stuck like I did looks like it wasn’t taken off for 30 years hit it with a blow torch and it’ll come right off I struggled for hours
That doesn't always work. But worth a try.
@@thetooner8203 I'm glad you told that Joe Biden loving gun banning clown off.
Good vid, you don't need to remove the retaining clip thou, just loose and slide it back.
I love how u was like thats where it was before then the camera jumps to a photo then comes back and the distribitor is turned to the correct position opposite side it was facing when u first put it in..lol good cover up
Move the oil pump shaft using a long screwdriver in order to align your new distributer into the previous firing position. Remember, both the rotor AND the base should be as close as possible to the replaced dist for the new one to fire up the eng then you can (disconnect the timing advance wire first) use the timing light to set exactly.
Pretty decent video and pretty informative. My only complaint is that I would’ve like to see you reassemble it and then start it up. Other than that decent video.👍🏾
Thank you! Yeah it was getting late and I forgot to record some stuff
Thanks for the vid, for that. I am your 1000th subscriber!
You're welcome! And thank you very much!!!
Great video!
You don't have to remove the distributor hold down bolt all the way, just slide the slotted bracket back.
Great video! I'm thinking I'm in for the same project on an old 95 Suburban of mine. As for the 9/16 distributor wrench, if a guy would make a version of that with a ratcheting end, he'd be able to retire that afternoon. :-)
Yes a ratcheting end would be amazing to have! I have never looked to see if one is made
@@black91silverado82 I don't think one is, at least not locally.
All you need to do is take a gearwrench of whatever size you need, heat it and bend it....voila!!
Broke the screw on mine and turned it out with vice grips no problem
Small open wrench will do
I'm having the same problem when the rotor is in a different spot, but it still doesn't make sense to me how to get it back to where it was before.
we have a 94 k1500 suburban we replaced the distributor but we can not get it to turn over what could we have done wrong. my husband didn't get a picture of the original before taking off so we had to set tdc but still cant get it to turn over.
Will the engine turn over, just not start? I would make sure everything is connected and in the right order. Make sure the coil is connected and the 2 connectors on the distributor are plugged in. And make sure the distributor didn't jump a tooth or something. The engine will need to be at TDC on the exhaust stroke as well when you put the distributor back in.
Also check spark plug wires order is correct and possibly a bad ICM.
After replacing the distributor the still wouldn’t start and the carburetor would smoke alittle? Could it be the carb or installed the distributor wrong?
@west11521 I would double check that the distributor is installed correctly. Also check that the spark plug wires are installed in the correct order
Did you unplug the advance timing plug before you started it for the first time or when it was running? I have a 89 that I replaced all new distributor parts and it started right but when I cut it off and unplugged the advance timing plug to set timing, it would not start! Plug it back up and will start up!
I unplugged it before starting, then set the base timing and shut the engine off. Then plugged it back in and fired it back up. If you adjust the timing with it plugged in, the computer will compensate for your adjustments
@@black91silverado82 Thanks for your quick response! So is there a need to set the base timing if it runs good without setting base timing?
@@gtuttle4I would say yes, If the timing isn't set correctly then you might lose gas mileage, foul out spark plugs, or lose engine power. You might not really notice any of that though. I have set the timing based on just listening to the engine before and have had no issues
@@black91silverado82 I set the timing with the advance timing plug connected and it ran great?
@@gtuttle4 If its running good and you don't notice any issues, then I would keep running it like that. You can always check with a timing light if needed
Always mark the rotor button direction!
What do I do if I didn’t
Where is the electronic spark control module?
Please help! I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice? It’s a 350 tbi.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I will be changing my distributor next week. Noticed you have headers are they shorty or midlength? How did that installation go?
Mine are long tube headers. I believe they are Hooker Comp headers that I got from Summit Racing. Installation wasn't too bad, if I remember correctly one side goes in from the top and the other side from the bottom. I had an issue getting my original manifolds off because a few of the bolts snapped off in the head. If I didn't have the bolt issue, then install would of been a breeze
What are those metal braces on your new coil for
I believe the coil is used in multiple different engines/vehicles, so the braces are for different applications. I had to drill the rivets out of my old coil to swap over the original bracket to the new coil. I dont believe you actually need the new braces....at least for my vehicle.
I just did a coil last weekend and also cut the rivetes out lol just couldn't for the life of me figure out what the hell those brackets were for 🤷
@@edwardkramer8738 Yeah I didnt know what they were for either so I just threw them on lol
Anyone know why I have oil specs in my distributor cap?
I change it on the regular but this problem is knew to me
Quick question what was that sensor cable you grab that was chop up a lil I can’t figure out where it goes
I'm not sure what the actual name of it is, but it goes from the distributor to the coil
Same thing for a 1993 roadmaster wagon?
Looks like it uses same distributor, or same style. So should be the same process
My truck has been acting weird for half a year and it just recently wouldn’t start and when I took the coil wire it was corroded as heck, were your terminals corroded as well?
The wires for my coil looked fine besides the one that had a cut in it. You should be able to buy a new wire harness for the coil to distributor. My spark plug wires were all also fine. The only "corrosion" I had would of been on the distributor cap, on each of the contacts for the rotor.
My truck was having an issue where it would kind of hesitate around 1500-2000rpms and the rpms would jump around a little bit. Everything before and after that, it would run fine.
I replaced a few other sensors as well as the distributor, so I'm not 100% sure what actually fixed my problem
@@black91silverado82 yeah I think my truck is a combo of cap corrosion and O2 sensor problems, im gonna replace those and if it still has problems im gonna assume fuel pump is making it not run
@@bannoch Is yours still OBD1? Thats what mine is, so its more difficult to track down issues that are going on. Usually just have to end up replacing a bunch of stuff before it runs right again
@@black91silverado82 I think so, I’ve just been casually getting new parts for it but recently it’s gotten worse so I’ve been “researching” on the internet
@@bannoch an intermittent pickup coil will produce both no spark and your injectors won't fire, also check your fuel filter if you do have spark. Check the coil with an ohm meter or dmm. Also double check your pickup coil to ignition module connection inside the distributor, those can get corroded and act up. Good luck.
Can you install the distributor 180?
was this distributor a good quality part been looking around for distributors, dont wanna waste my money on cheap stuff that isnt gonna last
It had been working fine for me so far
I’m having problems with my 1994 Chevy I can’t get no spark changed the plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor bug, icm, ignition coil and still no spark
I would check your battery connections and grounds. See if you have 12v at the coil as well with the key on. Could be a blown fuse for ignition
Maybe check key switch on steering column?
One thing is that the price on the Napa part is way off. These sell on eBay or Amazon for as low as $40. I priced one from Napa for $135. I bought one from Amazon for $65. Napa is just way wrong on their price.
Great walk through. But in order to not use a timing light u could just go by ur old pic?
You can yes, and that will get it pretty close. I have done it by ear before. It won't be perfect and your gas mileage and power might decrease but it will be enough to get it running and driving
@@black91silverado82 awesome I'm gonna have to do that tell I an get some .ore extra cash. I haven even got my distributor yet. But man am I glad I watched some videos lol
@@jonathancollins2535 I might have to do a video with timing my truck without a timing light. Never thought about doing that, but that's what I did before I bought a timing light. Usually you can get them from parts stores for like $30-50 for the cheaper wired ones
@@black91silverado82 I'm very broke rn lol both vehicles broke down waiting on distributor and gotta possibly drop a tranny on my mustang
@@jonathancollins2535 I've definitely been there before. Had 2 beaters and everytime I fixed one, the other one broke down
About how long did the whole processes take?
Maybe 30 minutes to an hour
@@black91silverado82 nice., thank you.
I have oil all through my distributor. Investigated it and says my o ring could be bad. I'm wondering if I can cut the o ring raise the distributor up just enough to get the new o ring on ? Do u think this is possible?
The correct way would be to remove the distributor to replace that small gasket since it is one whole piece. But you might be able to get away with barely lifting the distributor up and applying rtv to where the gasket goes. I have never done this, so I don't know how effective it will be. You will have to act somewhat fast and time your engine again so the rtv doesn't set before you are able to move it to the final spot
@@black91silverado82 thanks. Might try this. Still weighing my options.
@@black91silverado82 working on a 92 Silverado
@@broken_bones_acres You might risk pulling the distributor out too far by trying to just pull it up a little and sealing that gasket. And if you pull it up too far then you might as well remove it completely. And replace the gasket. Your hold down clamp could also be a little loose, causing the oil to go through the gasket and leaking out
@@black91silverado82 yea that's what I'm afraid of. It doesn't look easy to do it the way I want to. I'll definitely check the bolt to see if it's loose
How did you time it
I have a video on how I timed it
th-cam.com/video/Sy7CWbuNAZg/w-d-xo.html
How did it hold up
Everything is working great with it. Starts and runs fine and does seem to run better than before
@Black91 Silverado I ended up getting the autozone one. It had a lifetime warranty. Mines running a lot better, still need to adjust it a bit.
@@SGastoina Awesome, lifetime warranty is always good to have
Do you know the part number for the wires your holding at 11:00 minutes in
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP4605
From rock auto I believe is the side that connects to the coil.
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TX3A
From rock auto should be the side that connects to the distributor.
Both were found on Rockauto and one was under "Electrical-Connector.....ICM connector" the other was under "Ignition Coil Connector". There are different brands and prices too
Reason for replacement of distributor???
I dont think I NEEDED to replace the distributor. I just had a few issues that would come up when it was raining where my rpms would jump up and down at lower speeds. I tried multiple things to fix it and nothing would work. Then as I was replacing the Ignition Control Module, one of the small bolts broke off. Only way for me to fix it correctly would of been to remove the distributor and drill out the bolt. I figured if I'm removing the distributor, then I'm replacing it. My truck has 250,000 miles on it and the distributor is most likely original. Only cost $120 and now I don't have to worry about the distributor for a long while anymore. Plus it resolved my issue
@@black91silverado82 thanks for replying my truck injectors don't prime when I turn on the truck check everything is good, bad distributor can b a issue??
@@oscarmunoz3549 is your fuel pump not priming or the injectors? I don't think the injectors prime on s 350 non vortec engine. I think they only fire when the engine is turned over
@@black91silverado82 sorry didn't mentioned I have 1990 5.7 tbi motor
@@oscarmunoz3549 Only your fuel pump should prime when you turn the key on, and it only primes for a couple seconds until it reads oil pressure or rpms. If you're not getting any fuel when you try to start it then it wouldn't be the distributor causing the issue. I'm not sure what your issue could be without more information
Wow your 100 % setting people up for failure, if you dont mark the exact position of where the rotor button was in reference to the lower half of distibutor cap and someone watching this video does what you just did your gonna completly screw them over with you instructions and it may start but then itll fall on its face under load ....if you not going to show them how to do this correctly and put the engine at top dead center on the compression stroke and then see where the rotor button if facing which it should have landed on the #1 spark plug wire ,then people need to know you need to mark exactly where the rotor button is sitting when you just pull the distributor out ,otherwise youll be screwed....your 100% changing the timing by it not going back in exactly the way it came out....MUST GO BACK IN EXACTLY THE SAME.... ,NOT "I THINK" OR "IM PRETTY SURE"....your gonna screw up alot of people with the wrong instructions....and if fate wouldnt have it i just had a customer watch your video ,tryied to do this by pretty close term, screwed it up and tryied to start the motor , and once you start the motor with the distributor in the wrong spot its game over ,you have to start from scratch and get the motor at top dead center.on the compression stroke, both #1 valves are closed and then make your distributor drop in with rotor at the#1 plug....and if it wont turn the oil pump untill it does drop in at #1...
True, just mark the exact position the old one was at and you'll spare yourself a lot of headache
harbor freight crows feet
Parts are very pricey
Can someone please tell me how to get my number 1 cylinder to top dead center please?
This is what i nornally do:
Remove cylinder 1 spark plug
Put a small piece of tissue loosely in the spark plug hole
Rotate engine over with a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the piece of tissue gets pushed out.
This will get you close to top dead center on the exhaust stroke. You can carefully use a screwdriver to "feel" the top of the cylinder, and continue to rotate the engine until the cylinder is as high as it will go before going back down. You should also be able to see the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and it should line up with the timing tab thats bolted to the timing chain cover.
I hope this helps
@@black91silverado82 I'm going to try and get it done today. Thanks for responding
@@black91silverado82 got piston up and it pushed paper out. Does the two plugs on the bottom of my distributor go toward the firewall?
@@wildestcowboy2668 you are talking about the 2 connectors, right? On mine, they were facing more towards the driver side
@@black91silverado82 It worked, the ole girl cranked up like a champ. First motor I ever swapped out myself.....just needed to tweak her. TKS Boss
👍
Please help! I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice? It’s a 350 tbi.
Where is the green wire located on yours?
@@black91silverado82 Not far from the dog house. Is there a way to connect with you to send you a picture?
A ground