Noel, you are Soo right. I finally got a 6" Craftsman. How in the world did I get by without it. Also you can add a arbor press to that. Once you have had one list.😄
I was 1 of the last machinist to operate a belt driven Lathe where I worked. That lathe had a 36 ft bed and during the war was used to put the rifling in the big gun barrels. My Grandfather had a belt driven lathe also which I used. It is a different feeling using a lathe where there are no big time restraints although it was also good to see the finished job.
Working in an industrial environment and surviving to old age proves intelligence, in today's society people expect to be safe, that was not the way it was before 1973.
My old lathe is also overhead flat belt drive. It’s a Champion Blower and Forge that probably dates back to some time in the 1930’s. It’s about 15” swing with a 5’ bed. Don’t use it a lot, but it’s sure handy when I need it....
I'm sure your statement about being the last one to do any repair on the tractor is true. The young generation could care less and if they did wouldn't have a clue where to start. Thanks for all you do to keep history alive.
I'm surprised. That pedal bore didn't have a bronze bushing. Just excellent work. The padding of the shaft. Turning back down. With results that beautiful. Definitely requires experience.
Love the shaft character marks. I also love the heartbeat beat of an old belt driven machine. It soothing sound like an old diesel engine when running slow and you can almost count the firing.
One of the rare occasions we see you welding and working at the lathe, Toby. You lay some nice beads, but spray welding would have been the better solution. Unfortunately Abom 79 lives in Pensacola, not only far south but also Covid country now.
jbj27406 There are a couple of limitations of the spray welding/metalizing process, and if I understood Keith Fenners recent series correctly, the bond between the spray metal and the parent metal is somewhat weak. I’ve seen Abom use it to build up a motor shaft to fit a bearing, but never as the bearing or friction surface.
@@jdownj I must admit these techniques are far beyond my skills level, my welding is very amateurish and I've never used a lathe. But I find it very interesting to see these skilled guys like Toby, Senior, and Abom able to jig up their work or equipment to perform operations that I couldn't easily figure out how to do.
It would be nice to have senior and your skills. You guys just seem to know what to do, I just scratch my head for five minutes and hope it turns out right.
Don't worry you will not turn over any time soon, maybe another 60 + years... so whatever you do to this tractor will lass long long time bro.... be safe and see you on the next one..!!
Good job! I wish I had a lathe and a milling machine. I have a Frank N. Wood Trucut armature lathe though. I need to figure out where I can get a flat belt for it. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work, in your spare time you could fix a few hundred of those pedals and sell them at swap meets when ever we can do that again. I know I'd buy one for the 300 row crop. Of course you'd want a core exchange.
Rodney Wager Probably be easier on some of those to bring the pedal to the meet, place your order to have yours fixed and shipped back to you. Just depends on the rarity of the part being repaired I guess.
That brakin system was used on International tractors for a long time even after the introduction of a diff lock pedal which operated on a shaft comin through the right hand side brake assembly 👍
Well in all fairness I was a kid throwing hay bales on a wagon,the Farmall in top gear could pull a fully loaded wagon at highway speeds,and with care was capable of slowing tractor and wagon for the turn to the side road. Real modern style braking was unattainable. The wagon had no brakes,us kids were on the hay bales,an emergency stop would have been a mess. But generations of families did exactly that,and survived. Bad luck or carelessness produced another consequence. Would I do it again ? Probably. As an adult would I improve the circumstances ? Almost certainly. Brakes on the wagon alone would help. Is it worth finding a way to upgrade the tractor brakes ? I doubt it. Is it a good system ? Hmm. Not sure. It worked. What would be better ? Not sure. Any ideas out there in TH-camland ? Be interesting to find out.
@@paulmanson253 - I guess Sr. nailed it then? Further, I agree, the Super M is certainly a child of it's time. Traffic was much more forgiving with way fewer cars (at least in my parts of the world). No question we have to do stuff differently now :)
The IH disc brakes can work very well, but there’s no real in between, they either work great or barely at all. Due to the design, they’re also “self energizing”.. when you’re going forward anyway. They never work as good going backwards as they do forwards.
@@justinstearns9723 Hmm. Self energizing. That is actually a technical term,referring to leading shoe/trailing shoe drum brake system with an adjustable flex coupling between trailing end of leading shoe and leading end of trailing shoe. Not trying to zing you but it has a most specific meaning to us what are school trained on the subject. I have not actually paid much attention to the physical details of the disc system. Too much else to think about,but now you have brought it up,it is time. Please be good enough to reply as to just what you mean by that,and I will try to get my head around it. Thanks.
paul manson The ball and ramp brake actuators used in these Farmalls are made in such a way that when applied they rotate in the same direction as the brake discs themselves when going forward. So the grip of the discs assists in opening up that actuator and makes them grab harder. Kind of like a crude mechanical form of power brakes. And the reason they don’t work as well in reverse, is because they’re turning in the opposite direction and instead try to release the actuators.
Mind if I send you a shaft and pedal(s) from a Farmall 450 to refurbish? The clutch on my LP is as bad, if not worse than that Super M was. Luckily nobody cared enough about the tractor to weld a rod alongside the platform.
Thank you for the video.I have wondered about how one keeps metal from distorting while welding.How did you decide where to position the clutch petal in the mill so the hole was centered?
Is there any manufacturer identification on the brakes? I have observed almost identical brake design on a BM Volvo 400 tractor, just the dustcaps were no present, the outer cover was totally solid cast part
@@squatch253 Oh, Doo'h... The whole picture. Yup, back seat helper here, this time. I am watching your vids 3-4 times nowadaze. It seems the tube's content has become average, aside from The Trips to my Past you and Senior take me on weekly. And I THANK YOU.
Nice. Would you consider giving the Super M a name? I called the one I grew up driving, Emma. That's the one I mentioned in an earlier comment that was shot to pieces about 2 years after I rebuilt the engine.
I remember when I was a little kid my grandpa had a Farmall m with wide Front end and it had a front end loader on it and he had a farmall Super MTA which was on the sawmill I will remember that when the blade hit the log the thing would roar! Also what year is your cat D2?
Grease would definitely helped, but it's a common problem on the Farmall with disc brakes. I don't know why, I have 3 H's a cub and a 300. The only bad pedal is on the newest of them. The 55 300
Once you own a lathe, it's impossible to live without one.
I've been finding that out lately too!
Noel, you are Soo right. I finally got a 6" Craftsman. How in the world did I get by without it. Also you can add a arbor press to that. Once you have had one list.😄
I was 1 of the last machinist to operate a belt driven Lathe where I worked. That lathe had a 36 ft bed and during the war was used to put the rifling in the big gun barrels. My Grandfather had a belt driven lathe also which I used. It is a different feeling using a lathe where there are no big time restraints although it was also good to see the finished job.
Be carefull. You'll tell your age like the rest of us old dinosaurs lol
Working in an industrial environment and surviving to old age proves intelligence, in today's society people expect to be safe, that was not the way it was before 1973.
My old lathe is also overhead flat belt drive. It’s a Champion Blower and Forge that probably dates back to some time in the 1930’s. It’s about 15” swing with a 5’ bed. Don’t use it a lot, but it’s sure handy when I need it....
We used to say stupid fixed itself, made you think a little..LOL
Love the tick of that old flat belt. Also love the mechanical "click-clack" of an old hot bulb stationary engine.
I'm sure your statement about being the last one to do any repair on the tractor is true. The young generation could care less and if they did wouldn't have a clue where to start. Thanks for all you do to keep history alive.
How much less could they care though?
Fantastic fix. Really nice work
Senior doing a great job just love watching you both keeping old technology alive.
I'm surprised. That pedal bore didn't have a bronze bushing. Just excellent work. The padding of the shaft. Turning back down. With results that beautiful. Definitely requires experience.
That belt driven lathe is a work of art. You are extremely lucky to own it!
Love the shaft character marks. I also love the heartbeat beat of an old belt driven machine. It soothing sound like an old diesel engine when running slow and you can almost count the firing.
I'm working on our 1947 Greyhound Bus and I know exactly what your talking about. Nothing surprises me. Great work!!!!!!!
Better than I do believe. When you and your dad rebuild something it's better than new. Great video as always.
Your videos are awesome, Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
One of the rare occasions we see you welding and working at the lathe, Toby. You lay some nice beads, but spray welding would have been the better solution. Unfortunately Abom 79 lives in Pensacola, not only far south but also Covid country now.
Yeah, that Abom does some fine work.
jbj27406 There are a couple of limitations of the spray welding/metalizing process, and if I understood Keith Fenners recent series correctly, the bond between the spray metal and the parent metal is somewhat weak. I’ve seen Abom use it to build up a motor shaft to fit a bearing, but never as the bearing or friction surface.
@@jdownj I must admit these techniques are far beyond my skills level, my welding is very amateurish and I've never used a lathe. But I find it very interesting to see these skilled guys like Toby, Senior, and Abom able to jig up their work or equipment to perform operations that I couldn't easily figure out how to do.
Nice save in that shaft, Toby. Seventy bucks is seventy bucks! Every little bit helps!💪🏻👌👍💵
I have a little larger mill and lathe. Also a boring head or two. If you ever need it, I am "in the cities". Nice work fellas! Thanks for the videos!
Always a pleasure to see them old lathes turning
Now I need a lathe and a milling machine 😪👍
Why bother, when you could just drop jobs off to the Squatches? Or bring some beer and "help".
👍 me to 😥
Good to watch the shaft build up and machining. interesting!
Great job Squatch better than factory, thanks for making time on these videos
old school ways still work so well..and the know how...great video
I've got a 504D with the same issue on the clutch/brake shaft. Got a South Bend similar to yours as well. Just a much shorter bed length.
Should have had a bushing in the pedal when new. Love to see you fixing 60+ year old design mistakes / penny pinching.
Great video guys. Toby your fabrication skills are awesome....
What a great idea to use bushings! I am going to use the same principle on my John Deere clutches. :-)
G'day Squatch it is sad a lot people my age or younger don't care for the old iron but there are a few of us that are mad about old iron.
It would be nice to have senior and your skills. You guys just seem to know what to do, I just scratch my head for five minutes and hope it turns out right.
I love it when a good plan comes together keep up the good work
Nice!!!! I would say that was a simple job. But it's not as simple as it looks if you don't have the right tools to do the job. Love your channel.....
Neat old lathe!
I didn't hear your elbow click when you achieved the correct torque on those brake housings?
what i realy like on the IH is the brakes very simple to work on , compare to the green stuff ! IH Neuss 633
Don't worry you will not turn over any time soon, maybe another 60 + years... so whatever you do to this tractor will lass long long time bro.... be safe and see you on the next one..!!
You both do great work
just a thought, turn down the shaft till it's round and make up the difference in the new bushing.
Great job on that clutch pedal shaft, you won't have to hit a moving target.
Good job! I wish I had a lathe and a milling machine. I have a Frank N. Wood Trucut armature lathe though. I need to figure out where I can get a flat belt for it. Thanks for sharing.
Great job Bud👍
Nice work, in your spare time you could fix a few hundred of those pedals and sell them at swap meets when ever we can do that again. I know I'd buy one for the 300 row crop. Of course you'd want a core exchange.
Rodney Wager
Probably be easier on some of those to bring the pedal to the meet, place your order to have yours fixed and shipped back to you. Just depends on the rarity of the part being repaired I guess.
Awesome video keep them coming 👍👍👍👍
That brakin system was used on International tractors for a long time even after the introduction of a diff lock pedal which operated on a shaft comin through the right hand side brake assembly 👍
5:42 - Haha, nice IH brake system review Sq. Sr! "I'm not a real fan of it, but if you keep everything nice and in tune they work - to an extend"
Well in all fairness I was a kid throwing hay bales on a wagon,the Farmall in top gear could pull a fully loaded wagon at highway speeds,and with care was capable of slowing tractor and wagon for the turn to the side road.
Real modern style braking was unattainable. The wagon had no brakes,us kids were on the hay bales,an emergency stop would have been a mess.
But generations of families did exactly that,and survived. Bad luck or carelessness produced another consequence.
Would I do it again ? Probably. As an adult would I improve the circumstances ? Almost certainly. Brakes on the wagon alone would help.
Is it worth finding a way to upgrade the tractor brakes ? I doubt it.
Is it a good system ? Hmm. Not sure. It worked. What would be better ? Not sure. Any ideas out there in TH-camland ? Be interesting to find out.
@@paulmanson253 - I guess Sr. nailed it then? Further, I agree, the Super M is certainly a child of it's time. Traffic was much more forgiving with way fewer cars (at least in my parts of the world). No question we have to do stuff differently now :)
The IH disc brakes can work very well, but there’s no real in between, they either work great or barely at all. Due to the design, they’re also “self energizing”.. when you’re going forward anyway. They never work as good going backwards as they do forwards.
@@justinstearns9723 Hmm. Self energizing. That is actually a technical term,referring to leading shoe/trailing shoe drum brake system with an adjustable flex coupling between trailing end of leading shoe and leading end of trailing shoe. Not trying to zing you but it has a most specific meaning to us what are school trained on the subject.
I have not actually paid much attention to the physical details of the disc system. Too much else to think about,but now you have brought it up,it is time.
Please be good enough to reply as to just what you mean by that,and I will try to get my head around it. Thanks.
paul manson The ball and ramp brake actuators used in these Farmalls are made in such a way that when applied they rotate in the same direction as the brake discs themselves when going forward. So the grip of the discs assists in opening up that actuator and makes them grab harder. Kind of like a crude mechanical form of power brakes. And the reason they don’t work as well in reverse, is because they’re turning in the opposite direction and instead try to release the actuators.
thats a nice sweet lathe ! cheers from Germany
check out Mustermann6308 on Instagramm
Must be fun to be a craftsman.
Perfect fit perfect video.
your right that rick is a meas but a good dud he love his beer wow lol
I miss the clickity click on the 8" wide belt we used to blow silage up into the silo, usually kept the MDTA on that job.
I always wondered what that blue drywall pole was for. Now I know!
Roller needle bearings are better then brass bushings less ware i reformatting dodge cummins pilot needle bearings in to a couple levers on my d8 cat
Mind if I send you a shaft and pedal(s) from a Farmall 450 to refurbish? The clutch on my LP is as bad, if not worse than that Super M was. Luckily nobody cared enough about the tractor to weld a rod alongside the platform.
Thank you for the video.I have wondered about how one keeps metal from distorting while welding.How did you decide where to position the clutch petal in the mill so the hole was centered?
This is going so well! :-)
There are still wheel wrights. Someone will carry on the trade.
perfect fix!
My question is, why not turn the shaft down and then make a brass bushing?
You and I was on the same page. Nicely done!
Is there any manufacturer identification on the brakes? I have observed almost identical brake design on a BM Volvo 400 tractor, just the dustcaps were no present, the outer cover was totally solid cast part
A quick question. Would have mattered if you had not cut that bronze bushing down to length.?.?.?
@@squatch253 Oh, Doo'h... The whole picture. Yup, back seat helper here, this time. I am watching your vids 3-4 times nowadaze. It seems the tube's content has become average, aside from The Trips to my Past you and Senior take me on weekly. And I THANK YOU.
That’s going to be a much nicer clutch action.
Why didn't you put a plastic bushing in there like its done to day. Only kidding you fixed it correctly nice job.
Nice. Would you consider giving the Super M a name? I called the one I grew up driving, Emma. That's the one I mentioned in an earlier comment that was shot to pieces about 2 years after I rebuilt the engine.
Are the 560s brakes similar or same to the super series?
I remember when I was a little kid my grandpa had a Farmall m with wide Front end and it had a front end loader on it and he had a farmall Super MTA which was on the sawmill I will remember that when the blade hit the log the thing would roar! Also what year is your cat D2?
When someone asks you what the required torque on the fastners is just tell them a quarter of a turn from the breaking point.
Thats bitchin work.
neighbor welded a steel rod on the platform to keep clutch pedal from flopping around.
where did you set the pedal up the cutter, the center of housing because the egg shape was on each side?
WHERE'D YOU GET YOUR BUSHING AND WOULD YOU HAVE A PART NUMBER?
👍🏻👍🏻
IH has better brakes than most .
Not ideal but they work .
some farmer forgot to use his grease gun once per year on that SM
Grease would definitely helped, but it's a common problem on the Farmall with disc brakes. I don't know why, I have 3 H's a cub and a 300. The only bad pedal is on the newest of them. The 55 300
Doooh, welding in a shortsleeve t-shirt
You are pretty much flame proof when you have a TH-cam channel.
@@ajones8699 😊👍 so it seems
Don't you guys know about brazing and returning or reboring? Sheesh!
First!!!