This comment is a little off topic but I find it interesting. I bought a new generator several years ago for an emergency backup and wanted it set it up for “duel fuel”…..gasoline and propane. I bought a cheap aftermarket duel fuel carburetor. I did some digging and found out you’re supposed to break in the engine for at least 6 hours before running it on propane. They say that the propane is so clean running that the piston rings won’t break-in properly. I followed the recommended procedure and everything seems fine. Just thought it was interesting to hear that propane runs so clean that it wouldn’t even break in the engine properly.
Great video for the new members. I did the 30-minute oil change on my Kraken. The oil was surprisingly clean. (No, the dealer did not do a break-in.) Im now waiting for the 5-hour mark. I didn't know about the Amsoil break-in oil, but I am using the Amsoil W5-30. For anyone contemplating taking JB's rust-proofing Masterclass, it's worth every dime! Order yours today!
26 นาทีที่ผ่านมา
I worked at Penske Truck Leasing in the early 2000’s as District Manager and Roger Penske decided to extend the mileage and time intervals for all ‘B’ servicing (includes oil change) significantly as he was switching to Synthetic Mobil 1 in all of trucks (Detroit Diesels which he also owned). What he did as well however was add in an ‘oil analysis” to each oil change. This meant a sample would be sent off for each oil change for $10-$15 per sample and our service department would receive back an analysis. It was actually quite incredible and in depth. It was able to show us EVERY type of metal or deposit found in the used oil and determine if it was excessive or not and ascertain if the wear was coming from pistons, walls, rings, specific bearings that used different metals etc. Now you know that you can send off your snowblower oil to find out what is really going on. lol. 👍
I'd add a couple ounces of kerosene to that first oil after that 30 minutes and let it slow idle for about 5-10 minutes with the kerosene in the crankcase. It'll help wash out the particulates in the break-in draining. In old cars, we add about a pint of kerosene to a warm engine and let it idle about ten minutes before we change the oil. It does the same thing as that commercial stuff called "Motor Flush" breaking up any sludge buildup in the crankcase, around the valvetrain, etc.
The Ariens Deluxe 24 I bought last year had the oil drain tube plug tightened with the strength of Hercules from the manufacturer. It took me over two hours to remove. I had to use Vice grips with a padding to hold the drain tube, then I used my ratchet, that didn't budge it, then I used a rubber mallet with the ratchet and it didn't move. In the end I had to spray it with liquid wrench three times over two hours while using an impact driver. After the third spray and wait, I waited overnight, the impact driver finally got it. Wtf. Meanwhile the drain tube itself would have come right off with ease and would have made a massive oil mess. I had to keep the Vice grips holding the drain tube wedged against the body of the snowblower or it would have come right off with the very first attempt at removing the plug. It's so crazy to have something that over torqued.
I had the same issue. I had to remove it from the crankcase, which made a hell of a mess. Then, I took it downstairs, put it in a vice, and took a torch to it.
Talking about that "cheap" oil tickled me a bit, lol. Many years ago we had a 1971 Dodge cabover pickup truck (I think they called it a B-100 or something like that) that had about 300,000 miles on it, holes big enough in the floor pans and the sides of the bed to throw a cat through, but it ran good, though it leaked oil like a sieve, going through a quart about every 20 miles. We used to buy a conventional 30 weight oil for its old 318 that was sold new in bottles though it was actually recycled oil under the brand of "Empire State Oil". That stuff was like 50 cents a quart back in the mid 1980's and we'd buy it by the case and keep it in the back of that old truck, LOL!
100% agree with the break-in of any new engine. I always do a break-in after a couple hours of running and change oil again after 10 hours. You can buy a whole lot of oil compared to an engine rebuild. 👍
Great video...again! Our brand new 24 SHO Platinum has 45 mins on it from one storm. Dealer said change at 3 hrs, but I'm inclinded to do it soon. Probably 1 hour mark. If no snow, then perhaps sooner. Thanks!
I love the content. I change the oil each spring on my lawn mower. Except for the first start in the spring, it starts on the first pull every time. I got it before I got married 28 years ago. The same is true with my generator ( 22 years old and still looks and runs like it is new). Presently researching snow blowers and maintenance. By the age of my stuff, you can tell I'm getting older and shoveling snow isn't as appealing.
New engines have debris left over from manufacture that needs to be flushed out. The piston rings will be scraping off material from the cylinder wall as they "break in". Cheap engines usually have "soft" aluminum cylinder walls - better engines have "hard" cast iron cylinder walls. Most small engines have splash lubrication where the "bad stuff" is designed to be collected in the oil pan, Bigger engines may have oil pumps and oil filters. Old school used non detergent oil in splash lubricated engined to facilitate the settling of debris in the oil pan. Engines with oil filters need detergent oil to keep the debris in suspension to be collected in the filter. Since non detergent oil is poorly understood and usually unavailable the manufacturer recommendation is for more frequent oil changes. Back to the cylinder walls - aluminum cylinders are fine for low power - small property - light seasonal snowfall use. Use good oil - don't go cheap on aluminum cylinders. An oil change requires inspection of the drained oil. Commercial users should pour some of the used oil through filtering material to check what is present.
OIL Viscosity (thickness) and splash lubrication: Oil needs to be thin in order to splash. You need 5W oil to be able to splash in cold weather especially on start-up. Oil thickens in cold temperatures. Temperature: Thermodynamics and metal behavior of expansion/contraction has optimum engine temperature at around 200 Deg F. On snowblowers the engine is wrapped in shrouding to reach the optimum temperature. The heat of the exhaust is captured in a furnace to help with the temperature. The 30W gives optimum viscosity (thickness) at the operating 200 deg temp. Do not alter or eliminate the shrouding.
I just heard about a guy who bought a new Ariens 5 years ago. Just the other day during a storm his connecting rod snapped. He never changed out the original oil or even checked the level from time to time. Whoopsies.
@GarageGear Got a little snow yesterday afternoon. Went and took care of my customers last night so I got to run my snowblowers for the first time this season. Today we have a Santa Claus party to go to that my friends put on for all the kids.
Always well presented info that helps the owner maximize the longevity of their investment. I noticed watching your vids that the choke on these Ariens engines are now using a lever more like The Powermore engines used by other manufacturers. Is Ariens still using LCT engines in their machines?
Always change the oil on any piece of equipment! I got a 5hp Tecumseh MTD 5/22 snowblower from my neighbor before he moved to a climate where they don’t get snow. The oil looked to be never changed and is as black as a sharpie. Because of this the engine is under-powered and struggles when it shouldn’t. I bypassed the governor and make it rev higher when I’m blowing snow and it doesn’t help. I speculate that the cylinder wall has so many scores in it that it’s much lower on compression from the dirty oil. Please change your oil if you want to actually have a machine that will preform good and last longer!
I change my oil in fall and spring. Most machines take less than 1 liter of oil. My oil never gets that dark. Seventeen year old Craftsman is still running strong.
I missed the break in period oil change completely. I’m usually good for maintenance but that one slipped, I change my oil and lube up every year. Good video.
So little snow last winter I didn't reach the 5 hour mark. Changed to oil for storage (followed your storage guide). Gased up for this winter and she fired right up.
I definitely wouldn’t use synthetic oil till after 5 hours of run time. That’s about how long it takes a small engine to do a full break in. Synthetic oil won’t let it do a complete break in. Just food for thought.
ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
Great video JB as always. Something I do on initial break in as well when emptying the first run of oil is to stick a telescopic pen magnet in through the drain hole and into the bottom of the oil pan to pick up as much metal particles as possible. It’s quite small obviously and is telescopic up to a couple of feet so works perfectly. They’re at Home Depot for under 10 bucks.
Here’s how I’ve started breaking in small engines, this may be a little crazy. Use Break in oil for 6 hours (I use whatever I can get, but Driven makes good break in oil.). Change break in oil at 30 min, 1 hr, 3 hrs. During this time vary the load if possible, try not to run a one rpm. Use conventional oil for 24 total hours, then switch to synthetic oil.
After Ive broken in my small engines during the 1st year with a break-in change of course. I switch to the Walmart Supertech Full Synthetic for the rest of their life & change their oil 1x year. 👍🏻🇺🇸
JB - I’ve narrowed it down to this model, but none of my local dealers have the new one with 252cc engine. Is it worth getting it at a big box retailer or stick with local dealer and get the old model? Thanks
Hi JB, just wanted to wish you Merry Christmas. I bought my first Predator 212cc yesterday because H.F. made me an offer, I couldn't refuse $89.99 so this will come in handy whenever I install it.
So i changed oil before last winter and used it twice. So i didn't change it this winter yet. How long can oil stay good in a motor. I use mobil one full synthetic
I own the Ariens 30”deluxe and I do the oil change once a year since where I live we don’t get too much snow, I didn’t do the break in oil change when we bought it, I didn’t know u should do that 😡but thanks to these kind of videos I’m learning a lot Also love the news paper USA Today youth jailed Martin Mcfly lol One of my favorites.
Here is a LINK to the ARIENS DELUXE 24” SNOWBLOWER (model number 921045). Thank you for supporting the channel! 👍
👉 amzn.to/3ZMJ3gj
This comment is a little off topic but I find it interesting. I bought a new generator several years ago for an emergency backup and wanted it set it up for “duel fuel”…..gasoline and propane. I bought a cheap aftermarket duel fuel carburetor. I did some digging and found out you’re supposed to break in the engine for at least 6 hours before running it on propane. They say that the propane is so clean running that the piston rings won’t break-in properly. I followed the recommended procedure and everything seems fine. Just thought it was interesting to hear that propane runs so clean that it wouldn’t even break in the engine properly.
Great video for the new members. I did the 30-minute oil change on my Kraken. The oil was surprisingly clean. (No, the dealer did not do a break-in.) Im now waiting for the 5-hour mark. I didn't know about the Amsoil break-in oil, but I am using the Amsoil W5-30.
For anyone contemplating taking JB's rust-proofing Masterclass, it's worth every dime! Order yours today!
I worked at Penske Truck Leasing in the early 2000’s as District Manager and Roger Penske decided to extend the mileage and time intervals for all ‘B’ servicing (includes oil change) significantly as he was switching to Synthetic Mobil 1 in all of trucks (Detroit Diesels which he also owned).
What he did as well however was add in an ‘oil analysis” to each oil change. This meant a sample would be sent off for each oil change for $10-$15 per sample and our service department would receive back an analysis.
It was actually quite incredible and in depth. It was able to show us EVERY type of metal or deposit found in the used oil and determine if it was excessive or not and ascertain if the wear was coming from pistons, walls, rings, specific bearings that used different metals etc.
Now you know that you can send off your snowblower oil to find out what is really going on. lol.
👍
I'd add a couple ounces of kerosene to that first oil after that 30 minutes and let it slow idle for about 5-10 minutes with the kerosene in the crankcase. It'll help wash out the particulates in the break-in draining. In old cars, we add about a pint of kerosene to a warm engine and let it idle about ten minutes before we change the oil. It does the same thing as that commercial stuff called "Motor Flush" breaking up any sludge buildup in the crankcase, around the valvetrain, etc.
The Ariens Deluxe 24 I bought last year had the oil drain tube plug tightened with the strength of Hercules from the manufacturer. It took me over two hours to remove. I had to use Vice grips with a padding to hold the drain tube, then I used my ratchet, that didn't budge it, then I used a rubber mallet with the ratchet and it didn't move. In the end I had to spray it with liquid wrench three times over two hours while using an impact driver. After the third spray and wait, I waited overnight, the impact driver finally got it. Wtf. Meanwhile the drain tube itself would have come right off with ease and would have made a massive oil mess. I had to keep the Vice grips holding the drain tube wedged against the body of the snowblower or it would have come right off with the very first attempt at removing the plug. It's so crazy to have something that over torqued.
I had the same issue. I had to remove it from the crankcase, which made a hell of a mess. Then, I took it downstairs, put it in a vice, and took a torch to it.
Talking about that "cheap" oil tickled me a bit, lol. Many years ago we had a 1971 Dodge cabover pickup truck (I think they called it a B-100 or something like that) that had about 300,000 miles on it, holes big enough in the floor pans and the sides of the bed to throw a cat through, but it ran good, though it leaked oil like a sieve, going through a quart about every 20 miles. We used to buy a conventional 30 weight oil for its old 318 that was sold new in bottles though it was actually recycled oil under the brand of "Empire State Oil". That stuff was like 50 cents a quart back in the mid 1980's and we'd buy it by the case and keep it in the back of that old truck, LOL!
100% agree with the break-in of any new engine. I always do a break-in after a couple hours of running and change oil again after 10 hours. You can buy a whole lot of oil compared to an engine rebuild. 👍
Great video...again! Our brand new 24 SHO Platinum has 45 mins on it from one storm. Dealer said change at 3 hrs, but I'm inclinded to do it soon. Probably 1 hour mark. If no snow, then perhaps sooner. Thanks!
I love the content. I change the oil each spring on my lawn mower. Except for the first start in the spring, it starts on the first pull every time. I got it before I got married 28 years ago. The same is true with my generator ( 22 years old and still looks and runs like it is new). Presently researching snow blowers and maintenance. By the age of my stuff, you can tell I'm getting older and shoveling snow isn't as appealing.
Appreciate you delban! Awesome that you take care of your stuff so well.
New engines have debris left over from manufacture that needs to be flushed out. The piston rings will be scraping off material from the cylinder wall as they "break in". Cheap engines usually have "soft" aluminum cylinder walls - better engines have "hard" cast iron cylinder walls.
Most small engines have splash lubrication where the "bad stuff" is designed to be collected in the oil pan, Bigger engines may have oil pumps and oil filters.
Old school used non detergent oil in splash lubricated engined to facilitate the settling of debris in the oil pan. Engines with oil filters need detergent oil to keep the debris in suspension to be collected in the filter. Since non detergent oil is poorly understood and usually unavailable the manufacturer recommendation is for more frequent oil changes.
Back to the cylinder walls - aluminum cylinders are fine for low power - small property - light seasonal snowfall use. Use good oil - don't go cheap on aluminum cylinders.
An oil change requires inspection of the drained oil. Commercial users should pour some of the used oil through filtering material to check what is present.
OIL Viscosity (thickness) and splash lubrication: Oil needs to be thin in order to splash. You need 5W oil to be able to splash in cold weather especially on start-up. Oil thickens in cold temperatures.
Temperature: Thermodynamics and metal behavior of expansion/contraction has optimum engine temperature at around 200 Deg F. On snowblowers the engine is wrapped in shrouding to reach the optimum temperature. The heat of the exhaust is captured in a furnace to help with the temperature. The 30W gives optimum viscosity (thickness) at the operating 200 deg temp. Do not alter or eliminate the shrouding.
I just heard about a guy who bought a new Ariens 5 years ago. Just the other day during a storm his connecting rod snapped. He never changed out the original oil or even checked the level from time to time. Whoopsies.
Did he learn his lesson lol? Thanks for sharing Smallblock! Any plans for the weekend! 👍
@GarageGear Got a little snow yesterday afternoon. Went and took care of my customers last night so I got to run my snowblowers for the first time this season. Today we have a Santa Claus party to go to that my friends put on for all the kids.
Always well presented info that helps the owner maximize the longevity of their investment. I noticed watching your vids that the choke on these Ariens engines are now using a lever more like The Powermore engines used by other manufacturers. Is Ariens still using LCT engines in their machines?
Appreciate you cardo! Ariens just started putting these engines on the ariens deluxe 24 and 28 models this year. Must be converting them over
Always change the oil on any piece of equipment! I got a 5hp Tecumseh MTD 5/22 snowblower from my neighbor before he moved to a climate where they don’t get snow. The oil looked to be never changed and is as black as a sharpie. Because of this the engine is under-powered and struggles when it shouldn’t. I bypassed the governor and make it rev higher when I’m blowing snow and it doesn’t help. I speculate that the cylinder wall has so many scores in it that it’s much lower on compression from the dirty oil.
Please change your oil if you want to actually have a machine that will preform good and last longer!
I change my oil in fall and spring. Most machines take less than 1 liter of oil. My oil never gets that dark. Seventeen year old Craftsman is still running strong.
Good info here Todd! Thanks for sharing 👍
I missed the break in period oil change completely. I’m usually good for maintenance but that one slipped, I change my oil and lube up every year. Good video.
So little snow last winter I didn't reach the 5 hour mark. Changed to oil for storage (followed your storage guide). Gased up for this winter and she fired right up.
I definitely wouldn’t use synthetic oil till after 5 hours of run time. That’s about how long it takes a small engine to do a full break in. Synthetic oil won’t let it do a complete break in. Just food for thought.
Great video JB as always.
Something I do on initial break in as well when emptying the first run of oil is to stick a telescopic pen magnet in through the drain hole and into the bottom of the oil pan to pick up as much metal particles as possible.
It’s quite small obviously and is telescopic up to a couple of feet so works perfectly.
They’re at Home Depot for under 10 bucks.
Here’s how I’ve started breaking in small engines, this may be a little crazy.
Use Break in oil for 6 hours (I use whatever I can get, but Driven makes good break in oil.). Change break in oil at 30 min, 1 hr, 3 hrs. During this time vary the load if possible, try not to run a one rpm.
Use conventional oil for 24 total hours, then switch to synthetic oil.
Oh wow 414 you really got this dialed in! Nice work! 👍
After Ive broken in my small engines during the 1st year with a break-in change of course. I switch to the Walmart Supertech Full Synthetic for the rest of their life & change their oil 1x year. 👍🏻🇺🇸
I did this 30 minute-ish break-in last winter, wasn't so "dirty"
Less dirty than what came out of mine? This can vary by snowblower
I just changed my snowblower’s oil for the first time in 2 years. It now runs smoother, smells better and has a nicer low speed idle.
Awesome Ruben! A quick oil change does a number for a small engine! Thanks for sharing
JB - I’ve narrowed it down to this model, but none of my local dealers have the new one with 252cc engine. Is it worth getting it at a big box retailer or stick with local dealer and get the old model? Thanks
Hi JB, just wanted to wish you Merry Christmas. I bought my first Predator 212cc yesterday because H.F. made me an offer, I couldn't refuse $89.99 so this will come in handy whenever I install it.
So i changed oil before last winter and used it twice. So i didn't change it this winter yet. How long can oil stay good in a motor. I use mobil one full synthetic
I own the Ariens 30”deluxe and I do the oil change once a year since where I live we don’t get too much snow, I didn’t do the break in oil change when we bought it, I didn’t know u should do that 😡but thanks to these kind of videos I’m learning a lot
Also love the news paper USA Today youth jailed Martin Mcfly lol
One of my favorites.
Just started using Supertech. The reviews put it better than many of the name brands.
When are we going to see the video on the 71 Ariens restomod?
Hey JB 👋
@@ChevyCitation hey Chevy thanks for watching bud! 👍
Another great one JD
@@14moldyhamsandwich thanks for watching moldyhamsandwich! 👍
Good stuff!
It’s amazing what you find in there! Thanks for watching Gary! Merry Christmas to you and Paula! 👍
Good video