(Detailed) Corolla clutch replacement - Part 5 - Transaxle, clutch, flywheel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Multi part series on 2005 Toyota Corolla clutch replacement. Part V is primarily about removing the transaxle mounting bolts, dropping the transaxle, then unbolting the clutch and flywheel.
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Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. I will be using these to swap my trans and change my clutch. Helping people even 6 years later, great video.
Glad to, and good luck. If any tips please add
I'll tell you what Doug... you came in soooooo CLUTCH with this video!!!! It took me a while, BUT the car is now running smooth asf!!!!!! Definitely proved some folks wrong that said I couldn't do it! DOUG YOU ARE THE SHIZNITS!!!!!!
Fantastic! Never heard the terms "shiznits" but I like it.
Hey Doug, Just used your video to help me replace the clutch in my daughters 2008 Corolla. It had a bad release bearing so bought a clutch kit and installed it. Thanks a million!!
So glad I could help out. I'd be interested to know any other tips on the job, if you can recall?
About the only things I did different from your video was to remove the half shafts from the trans axle I used a 2 ft x 3/4" bar ( basically a big punch) and placed it in the shallow groove in the trans axle end of the half shaft and gave it a tap with 3 lb. hammer to release them. Then to install , placed them in the trans axle as far as they would go by hand then used the same groove and from the opposite direction, again using the bar and gave a little tap with the hammer and to seat them. Hope that's clear enough?
Also, because the fly wheel was in real good condition, no hot spots or anything and my daughter didn't have a big budget for this repair I just buffed the flywheel with a metal prep disc (www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/company-ca/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Surface-Conditioning-Disc-type-A-MED-07486-maroon-3-in-7-62-cm-x-NH/?N=5002385+8709320+3293733827&rt=rud)
and did not remove the flywheel or have it machined. The clutch works perfectly.
I even got to have a little laugh at my daughters expense when I was with her when she drove it for the first time. The new clutch engages sooner of course and she stalled it a couple of times (which I knew would happen and purposefully did not warn her about, I know, nasty Dad! ) and had to get used to the change in shifting :)
Thanks again for the video!
Thank you very much! Your videos give a nice overview of the job and your attention to detail makes it easy to understand.
Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad they were helpful.
I'm a veteran mechanic and have performed many clutch replacements. I viewed the series of videos to familiarize myself with any unexpected obstacles as I will be replacing the clutch in my daughters car tomorrow. I found the videos very informative and I'm sure I couldn't have done a better job myself. Thanks.
Thanks for the nice comment!
Putting a flywheel on was a lot tougher than I expected. I figured out that the new one I bought had holes on the back (engine facing side). Right where the starter motor was removed from I inserted a phillips screw driver into one of those holes to keep it from turning. As far as I can figure out the flywheel bolts are TTY (torque to yield), but I reused mine and did 36 ft/lbs plus 90 degrees. I only have a cheap repair manual that doesn't cover this stuff. I dismantled and reassembled my transmission based on TH-cam videos like this one, and just searching Google. This particular five part series by Doug Brown gave me enough confidence to dive in.
My 2004 Corolla LE C59 transmission was still working. The car made a bearing noise above 30mph since I first bought it, and it ran well for a year until it recently started making a horrible whine above 2000 RPM. It turned out to be the output (aka counter) shaft rear bearing. Everything else in the transmission was fine (gears, diff, synchros, hubs, etc), so I assume the bearing had a defect or was slightly damaged during its original installation. I also replaced the input shaft bearing and gasket for no reason except that's what I originally thought was wrong (and I already bought those parts).
Glad I was able to help you! The flywheel is really heavy and you have to lift it up from below which makes it harder. But I recall a protruding post like you mentioned. If not, I would have done the same as you and stuck a screwdriver through a bolt hole in the flywheel into the hole where the bolt eventually ends up. The bolts are definitely TTY and I opted to buy new ones because I figured that after all this work and saved money I should pay to get the right part. But I'm guessing that reusing will be just fine too.
Thanks for replying, but there's a slight misunderstanding. The tough part was using a breaker bar to crank those bolts the additional 90 degrees (a quarter turn) beyond 36 ft/lbs.
I noticed you used a screwdriver wedged into the ring gear to keep the flywheel from rotating/turning, but that didn't work for me - it could still slip. The way I found kept it secure enough to really crank on the bolts.
I'm sorry I didn't make that clearer. It wasn't about weight. I even reinstalled my transmission by lifting it into place without using a jack.
Oh I see. The little bit of support from the screwdriver worked okay for me. So not much else to say, sorry.
Chris Balfour, what is the weight of the bell housing?
2020 and i'm about to do this on my, new to me , 05 Corolla, great vid, thanks from South Australia.
Good luck with that. It was a challenge but I got valuable experience.
Very informative! Especially the (relatively) stable camera.
Thanks for the series. I'm getting ready to change the clutch in my 2008 Matrix 210,000 miles. Still works fine day to day, but on a hot day with a heavy load, I trailer a Wayfarer sailboat and my MC in trailer, it finally started slipping this summer :( Oh well can't complain it's been a fantastic little car.
Thanks for the vid its helpful for my future clutch install my clutch made it to 280,000 kms pretty impressive.
It also depends on how you drive. If you have a one hour commute on the highway you get +++ mileage with no shifting. We live on a mountain and shift constantly.
I'm getting ready to tackle this job myself. I've changed the clutch and transmission in a 1975 Chevy C10, but I know this job will be more difficult. Thank you for your videos. I now know what to expect and have more confidence that I can get this done myself rather than spend US $850 to have it done. I'll be saving about US $600 by doing this job myself. Thank you!!
I'm very pleased to be of help! I tried to explain things so as to help DIYers anticipate what's coming up. I intended to include all the bolt sizes etc. but it just got too involved to keep track. Good luck and let me know if you find anything that I can add to my captions, please.
One thing I didn't tape was the reinstallation of the transaxles. There's a locking ring around the male end that's inserted back into the transaxle, so the axle doesn't just slide in smoothly. (It's the same thing taking it out--You need to lever it out.) Place a short 2x4 or something on the projecting end of the axle, and gently tap it into place with something heavy like a sledgehammer. It'll just pop into place.
Doug Brown Good to know! Just a ballpark figure, how long did it take you to do the whole job? Did you have to run to the auto parts store any? I'm mechanically inclined, but most of my experience is on 5.7L chevys. LOL. Thanks again for all of the advice. It is MUCH appreciated.
It's a second car, so I took my time over about four weekends. If I had to do it all again and with prior knowledge I could do it all in a weekend. I took it slowly because I had to look up some things on TH-cam and in the service manual. Re: auto parts, I definitely machined the flywheel which took a couple days. But I work on my cars quite a lot and had all the tools and things like threadlocker. Toyotas are nice because they don't need any special tools, like when i did my kid's Passat and had to order some things online.
It's a good idea to bring a camera phone or something to document all the bolts and parts before you take them off, and then bag and label them. I started doing all these videos for that same reason and I just figured people would be interested.
Alejandra: Yes, you're right. I didn't get into that because it wasn't damaged. Thanks for pointing that out.
Great video. Thanks for explaining everything in detail at the end.
best video for this particular job on TH-cam.
Thanks for the kind words!
THANKS DOUG. JUST FOUND OUT IT DOES NOT HAVE A CLUTCH PILOT BEARING.THOU YOU DO MENTION THE THROW OUT BEARING. TWO DIFFERENT BEARINGS. MY DADS TOYOTA PICK UP DOES HAVE BOTH.. GREAT VIDEO!! IT HELP MY DAD ALLOT.. COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOUR HELP..
thank you. very helpful video.
way better than hynes manual once you watch it in a video
Glad to help. Seeing it's way better than reading.
Great video!
Grazie
Great set of videos, helped me alot, thank you
If I over lubricate my shaft will it interfere with my release of nut?
I think if you slathered it up like you were putting on peanut butter it would be a problem, but otherwise it will be fine.
thank you Doug for your good video and very detailed.
Dario
Glad to help you out. Our Corolla is driving great.
Doug Brown
I have a 2006 Corolla 5 speed, that I know needs a new clutch. How well does your 2005 shift? Any notchiness, or does it slide from gear to gear pretty smoothly when driving?
It looks like you were able to get that out of there without removing the rear mounting bracket. You just pulled the bolt. Is that correct?
What are the torque settings for the flywheel?
i own a corolla 2010 5 speed S and my clutch squeaks when the pedal isnt pressed, i think its due to a spring on the throw out bearing either ones lose or broke, my fork you can se from the outside of the trans is shaking bad and making it squeak , do you think i can remove the boot and try to see with little mirrors if the springs are on right? or could it be something worse?
I see you didn't say or mention anything about the clutch pilot bearing. is their a reason?
Alejandra Olivas
all front wheel drive Toyotas do not have pilot bearings. They only have them on trucks
Thanks
Great video. I can not get the transmission and the engine to separate, all bolts out, have only the block next to the transmission, block is chained to a lift hoist; have a gap of inch and half that i can introduce a pry bar all around the perimeter, when the block and trans are level, the block spins freely but not amount of whatever I do get them to separate, there is resistance coming from the spindle; this is a 2004 manual trans Toyota Corolla; i can see the fly wheel and part of the clutch through the gap but thats it; i expended couple hours today until it was dark; nothing. I still have the clutch cylinder attached to the transmission and of course the fork but have no idea if those have to come out or if i need to release something else; in mine there are two 14 mm short bolts under the trans on the engine side, 2 other 17 long ones close to the passenger axle, also from the engine side, there are 2 17 mm on top of the transmission from the trans side then there are the two long ones that holds the starter motor that have been set aside; ma I missing any? thats all the bolts I can see; in my mind it is free and just hooked to the spindle but how much of a force is needed to get them to separate and then how in hell will I install it all after i rebuilt the engine? I would hate to have to remove the transmission because there is nothing wrong with it, my problem is a blown head gasket; changing the clutch is a bonus that the book recommends any time the engine comes apart but so far mine has not! any ideas?
When I raised the trans up and down it just separated from the engine. Then I put a pry bar into the gap and kept slightly raising and lowering the trans to expand the gap while using the pry bar. I had to get under the hood and manipulate the trans to finally get the spindle out of the engine. I'm pretty sure I highlighted all the bolts in the video.
Doug Brown ..yes I am doing the same but the movement comes from the block, is there no way to separate them from the block side then? Trans is securely in place on the engine mounts all bolts are out, have an uniforme gap of over an inch but the two do not separate. I just hope that I do not have to start releasing the transmission because I do not have a transmission plate and do not want to disconnect the axle from passenger side, I am repairing the engine only. At this point I am extremely frustrated with the fact that something is holding the two parts at the spindle level and do not ket them come lose
@@fireyourrocketts I showed all the bolts from the engine to the trans, for sure. I unbolted the trans, but you're unbolting the engine. I think you're probably going to need to unbolt the trans.
Doug Brown Tran is unbolted, only the spindle holds it to the block, all is free yet it would not freely separate
Doug Brown there is a gap between tran and block of over an inch all around it
These are torque to yield "stretch bolts". Did you wait the hour after torquing them and then turn them 90 degrees tighter?
I didn't know that. Thanks for pointing that out.
I have heard the clutch pedal is much softer with the exedy set up. How is the clutch pedal now compared to the clutch pedal before the clutch job?
I didn't notice any difference actually. It depends on the pressure in your clutch line and the master cylinder. i didn't get into any of that.
Clutch pressure also depends on the clutch springs... at least on a motorcycle 😀
My Daughters Corolla clutch is near its' "end of life".....your video reminds me that I don't think I want to do it.....even though I was a mechanic for many years, it looks like a P.I.T.A. to do....and I'm getting old.....lol.... I'll try to adjust it and maybe get lucky. (?) The clutch pedal is at "zero" play so maybe there is adjustment left....hoping anyway.
Frame: According to what I am seeing. You did not remove the Frame. Is this correct? You were able to get enough clearance to remove the transmission without dropping the frame. Correct?
+siucbset Correct. It took me about 10 minutes to maneuver it around the various components but it dropped out. Getting it back in was a matter of getting the transaxle on the jack and fiddling it back into place. I finally laid under the engine and lifted the thing up the last couple inches until I lined up the bolt holes and got the male/female alignment post/hole together, then shoved a bolt through.
Thank You
When you are changing a clutch.....do you need tho know how it works ?
Yes
Thank you for this great video
i have corolla 2003 5 speed e12
there is a noise when i start the car
but when i push the clutch pedal the noise gone
what is the problem
thank you
+Hosam Aboud Look around 10:00 where I show the 'throw out bearing.' Yours is loose and rattles around the hub. When you push in the clutch pedal, you compress the throw out bearing and the rattle stops.
How many miles were on the clutch you had to replace?
200,000 KMs
No pilot bearing?
I talk about the pilot/throwout bearing
Doug Brown u talk about the throwout not the pilot the pilot bearing doesn't come on 1zz and 2zz which I jus found out
@@Datboi_qwe Right. The new clutch came with a new pilot bearing.
My God!!! I never want to do this!!!!
very long story
It's a big job