That would explain my problem, I often strop my knife after using the sharpening steel, and I recognized that they don't cut as well as if I just use the steel alone, I then steel them again and their capabilities are back, I use the skerper grey compound with 4 Micron, and the knifes came of the King KDS 6000, which compound grit would you recommend, when the steel isn't enough anymore?
Have you since tested how many inches of cardboard you need to cut in order to lose push cutting ability? Also, do you notice any micro-chipping when cutting through lots of cardboard with this edge geometry?
Sorry for the late reply, but no, I haven't tested how many inches of cardboard I need to cut to lose push cutting ability. The data just isn't that relevant for me since I tend to keep my knives touched up on a daily basis. As for micro-chipping, I've only really seen any significant tendency towards it on my Caly 3.5 in ZDP-189 which has a thinned out primary grind and ~7-9 degree per side edge bevel. Mind you, I generally choose my blade steels precisely on the criteria of avoiding micro-rolling and micro-chipping in light use, as its this criteria that determines how long they can be kept touched up between sharpenings.
Just Fantastic. You have taken the title of Mad Genius of Sharpening on TH-cam. My only issue would be that a lot of your equipment sounds pricey, any chance of doing a short video using budget supplies? thank you
Things mostly only start getting pricey if you want highly polished apex finishes. For coarse apex finishes, a Norton India combination coarse/fine oiltstone and some mineral oil are an inexpensive and effective option.
gotcha, Norton India, will try to get one this payday. besides the super-cool look of a polished apex are there any other substantial benefits to it? will the edge or "sharpness' last longer or give a cleaner cut? thanks.
The choice of what grit to finish your apex at should mostly be based on the type of cutting work you anticipate doing with the knife. Coarse finishes give you more slicing aggression and edge retention on draw cuts and are well suited to tasks like slicing cardboard, rope and carpet. Polished finishes are better for push cutting and by minimizing the force necessary to make those push cuts they can improve edge retention in push cutting stiff materials (e.g. whittling). You can get an apex equally sharp at any grit, more or less, instead what changes are the size of the microscopic teeth. Also keep in mind polished apex finishes require more stones and more time to produce.
I have a cheap generic USB microscope. As I mentioned in my other reply to you, any 5 megapixel USB microscope with up to 500x magnification should work for you if you are interested in picking one up.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent ! You da man !
Nice work!
+Yehoshua Jason D. Stone Thanks. It's been fun exploring this stuff.
I really like using the Wicked Edge 14/10 micron paste after Spyderco Ceramics. Produces and incredibly keen edge
Thanks Steel.......have you tried 16 micron Diamond Spray using the same procedure?
That would explain my problem, I often strop my knife after using the sharpening steel, and I recognized that they don't cut as well as if I just use the steel alone, I then steel them again and their capabilities are back, I use the skerper grey compound with 4 Micron, and the knifes came of the King KDS 6000, which compound grit would you recommend, when the steel isn't enough anymore?
Have you since tested how many inches of cardboard you need to cut in order to lose push cutting ability? Also, do you notice any micro-chipping when cutting through lots of cardboard with this edge geometry?
Sorry for the late reply, but no, I haven't tested how many inches of cardboard I need to cut to lose push cutting ability. The data just isn't that relevant for me since I tend to keep my knives touched up on a daily basis.
As for micro-chipping, I've only really seen any significant tendency towards it on my Caly 3.5 in ZDP-189 which has a thinned out primary grind and ~7-9 degree per side edge bevel. Mind you, I generally choose my blade steels precisely on the criteria of avoiding micro-rolling and micro-chipping in light use, as its this criteria that determines how long they can be kept touched up between sharpenings.
Just Fantastic. You have taken the title of Mad Genius of Sharpening on TH-cam. My only issue would be that a lot of your equipment sounds pricey, any chance of doing a short video using budget supplies? thank you
Things mostly only start getting pricey if you want highly polished apex finishes. For coarse apex finishes, a Norton India combination coarse/fine oiltstone and some mineral oil are an inexpensive and effective option.
gotcha, Norton India, will try to get one this payday. besides the super-cool look of a polished apex are there any other substantial benefits to it? will the edge or "sharpness' last longer or give a cleaner cut? thanks.
The choice of what grit to finish your apex at should mostly be based on the type of cutting work you anticipate doing with the knife. Coarse finishes give you more slicing aggression and edge retention on draw cuts and are well suited to tasks like slicing cardboard, rope and carpet. Polished finishes are better for push cutting and by minimizing the force necessary to make those push cuts they can improve edge retention in push cutting stiff materials (e.g. whittling). You can get an apex equally sharp at any grit, more or less, instead what changes are the size of the microscopic teeth. Also keep in mind polished apex finishes require more stones and more time to produce.
What microscope do you use, if you don't mind?
I have a cheap generic USB microscope. As I mentioned in my other reply to you, any 5 megapixel USB microscope with up to 500x magnification should work for you if you are interested in picking one up.
Steel Drake
Thanks! Really love your work!