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I have one hella of a time removing these damn micro burrs, I believe this video will help me, and it logically it makes sense ! - Ty and Cheers !

Can someone explain why the orientation of a stone and flattening medium make any difference? Very baffled I am by that statement. I have flattened many friable stones by rubbing them together vertically or in any orientation as far as that goes. A late post but I'm very interested how others use these. I own several myself and due to the vitrified binding I use SIC powder and float glass to flatten them, on my tilted driveway. I will say, Impressive results with the India fine. Thank you.

After the high angle passes, I'm wondering if you may have over sharpened it, with 4 passes on each side, which introduced a small micro burr. Anytime I do this myself I find that it always cuts better if I leave it alone after doing very light pressure reverse high angle passes on my honing rod, then if I try to do any number of passes on the original sharpening angle, so with that said if there is a tiny micro bevel there, oh well I can live with that, because whenever I try to "fix" it, it just makes it worse

Just now getting into freehand so I'm about 8 years late on this video. Very clear angle and simple explanation. I'm very happy to have found this, removing the burr using wood, cork, or rubber works but I've been unhappy with the results for those softer more tenacious burrs that didn't just snap when stropping. Much happier with the results using this method. Thank you.

Thanks Steel.......have you tried 16 micron Diamond Spray using the same procedure?

Thanks Drake, always interested in your work. Wish you would come around more often now.

Drake, thanks forthe video. What stone is this and are you using oil as a lube?

Drake, thanks for the video. On the King Water Stones, were you using oil or water?

Drake, thanks for video.......what is the lube used, if any?

Do you mean to do this burr removal on the coarse stone and then 10 passes at a time on the finer stones or do you go straight to the finer stones still doing 10 passes at a time then do this burr removal method on the fine stone? Great video btw. Very impressive!

Great video! I'm a bit confused though. Is this done on the final stone? I use a king 1000/6000. Would i raise my burr on the 1000, Polish on the 6000 and then do this technique on the 6000 as well?

Thanks Reddit for linking me to this video ( I can't imagine why this video didn't get more views)

I de-burr with the end grain of a 2x then give it one or two quick stripping passes and that generally seems to refine the edge nice and smooth

What a fun hobby ! I've been doing this for 60 years and still learning. Very interesting.

idk what you think shaving into the grain of pine wood or whatever that is going to accomplish, especially on a steel like that. It's not going to do anything. Maybe if you did that 1000 times in a row you could notice some change, qualitativly. No clue what you're trying to accomplish. I've got a decent eye for it, and it doesn't look like you're getting particularly exceptionally edges off the stones there. Slicing copy paper is hardly a test of edge keenness at all, it doesn't prove anything other than maybe quickly guiding you to where any inclusions, ie nicks or rolls, in the edge might be, or the fact that yes you have an edge. It doesn't look like a very keen edge, but it's an edge. Try slicing through a free hanging paper towel. Not a supported pt like I've seen you do a few times talking some mumbo jumbo about "aggression." Hold the pt between two finger so it's hanging by the force of gravity, draw the knife through it, the knife should fall through it like it doesn't exist. You should be able to do that straight off the stones. That's a valid practical test for you.

I realize knife land of mostly basically nonsense and myth and assorted boy brained bullshit. But I don't know where you got the idea that coated abrasives like diamond plates can be compared to Waterstones in their grit ratings. Grit ratings more generally are arbitrary. Even quoted abrasive particle size is more arbitrary than you might think, because it depends on how the abrasives are bound. Softer binders leave softer scratches even with the same abrasive particle size as another stone with a harder binder. You're calling out a lot of things bs which is indeed bs but you also make a lot of faulty assumptions of your own.

Hi, do you know if Silicon Carbide sanding belts will work on ceramic knives by means of a belt sander? Thanks.

Is the SPS II 3000 really made out of Silicon Carbide?

Amazing!! Would the Sigma SPS-II 3000 be able to cut and refine the ceramic knife further?

Interesting, and entirely the opposite of my experience with the stone. I was not able to get anywhere with the King Stone against any powder metallurgy steels. Might have to retry with some experimentation.

Just from the intro I already know this is going to be a good sharpening channel. If anyone still bother you with that Todd from Science of Sharp did a study with electron microscopy and proved aluminum oxide is capable of cutting vanadium carbide. They get worn to the same level as the rest of the matrix. I don't understand how the physics behind that works but that's how it goes. 10 degree sharpening with microbevel does wonders. I also love it. Usually I go with 15 degrees microbevel but sometimes 20 is necessary. I never sharpened anything close to Maxamet, how did it perform with microbevel?

I’m surprised that you did not use a leather strap with compound. I always use 320 grit silicon carbide stones and they work great and two or three strokes on a leather strop with white compound will give you a razor sharp edge that will shave hair.

I have tried several methods to deburr and edge leading is the best I found. After deburr you can get a finer edge with alternating edge trailing strokes, with low grit stones the difference is quite noticeable.

awesome stuff thanks, good to have a different viewpoint.

Great camera work.

Great video, how many passes and what angle for burr removal? How many passes to reset main bevel without forming another burr? I know each knife and stone is different, I just want to know your thinking.

Rex121 can easily be ran at 68rc.... in fact 70-71rc rex121 is stable at.

Excellent video on your method. I liked it very much (as your other video with comparison of wood / cork / high passes deburring), and I can't wait to carry out your method when I'm sharpening my knives.

hello, sorry for the beginner question, but i cant decide between 'spyderco medium' and this 'india fine' or 'arkansas hard' i have dmt coarse and i want a stone that is a bit finer can india fine get a 1000 or 1500 grit finish?

Hey Mate, do you think that you are ever gonna make Videos again?

Excellent ! You da man !

Excellent

Dude thank you shoot a lot for your scientific Content, I watched alot of your videos and they helped and teached me alot, I really like the technical approach and that you share all that with us and in forums!❤️

Great video brother

That would explain my problem, I often strop my knife after using the sharpening steel, and I recognized that they don't cut as well as if I just use the steel alone, I then steel them again and their capabilities are back, I use the skerper grey compound with 4 Micron, and the knifes came of the King KDS 6000, which compound grit would you recommend, when the steel isn't enough anymore?

This comparison video was an exciting thing to watch. And painful. I guess I never really thought about the wood dragging method of tearing off burr quite like this before. Just the word tearing makes me shudder after all the work to profile and apex a blade. Your high-angle pass method does seem very useful under similar circumstances, such as edge leading sharpening on a firm abrasive. If using a “slurry” whetstone abrasive, I wonder if one can get the same deburring effect and results using edge trailing strokes with light pressure at a high-angle? In any case, I will try this method out during my next batch of knives. On another note, I’ve noted that some sharpeners, such as yourself, rotate their blade through the curve to the tip, while others just lift the handle slightly with no rotation. I’m curious to know if you think rotating has any advantage over just lifting the handle. One impact I can actually see is the scratch pattern of the knife bevel through the belly to the tip isn’t congruent if one rotates the blade. Thanks again, K

Thank you!

Your tutorials are the best freehand sharpening tutorials on TH-cam. Everyone else screws up the deburring. Thanks.

Man that sound of the slice with the grain. Awesome!

Did you overgrind on the backsharpening though? I feel like the edge is catching again in 2 spots.

Drake we need u back

Beautiful

Where’d it find that orange tray?

Thank you!! <3

Can someone please clarify that shearing the burr off with high angle passes on edge leading as opposed to edge trailing makes a differance or is it personal preference.

very nice. i also have one of Joe's first 440 neckers. i love the "grain" indicator

Just found this video now and wanted to say thank you especially for the info on the Spyderco bench stone scratch pattern equivalents. I’ve used Spyderco stones a long time with the Sharpmaker and now with the bench stone versions and I have always felt like they were much finer (and slower cutting) than the grit numbers Spyderco throws around. 4/8/13k would fit my experience much more reasonably. Interesting seeing you use oil on this as well. I’ve used mine with water and it felt like it slowed the cutting even more but made it silky smooth and reduced loading quite a bit.

I know it's 3 years after you published this video, but here's some evidence about alumina not cutting VC. scienceofsharp.com/2019/11/03/carbides-in-maxamet/

When sharpening is so easy for you that you add a slippery underpacking to increase the difficulty. This man knows how to sharpen!

Very fun series to watch. I must admit that it defies or seems to conflict with some SEM images posted by credible sources. However, I must say that your testing is very compelling and I too appreciate your efforts on this. Like you, I am more about “getting to the monkey” as quickly as possible these days. On high-end steels that means reaching for diamonds/CBN and getting on with it. I love that I can transition over to the nice Ceramics for finishing and get rid of the ugly edge left by the diamond. Thanks again.