ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Well, they say "use a capacitor when you fly with 6S batteries".
Here you can see what can happen if you have a powerful ESC and quite agressive motors.
My guess: The caps could not take any more energy from regenerative braking and the voltage went beyond their specs.
One of them finally failed and got a short circiuit, heating up instantly and spreading liquified PCB-copper traces everywhere.
No worries - it was repaired just a few minutes later:
• [FPV] ESC repaired
It was just a few caps that blew up.
![☀ Ультра бюджетная башня которая могёт! [Speedybee F4V4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KZQpSzt0Mhs/mqdefault.jpg)
![☀ Ультра бюджетная башня которая могёт! [Speedybee F4V4]](/img/tr.png)
I have burned and repaired this xrotor esc more than 7 times .. the problem is betaflight .. don't do this sharp motor powering in test mode .. there will be no problem in the air .. but on desk and test mode Idk why but it burns every time ! I think you just got a capacitor exploded .. easy to fix
Bro can you help me where I get those filtering capacitors from for my esc?
@@Venom97Official you can get them from race day quads
Could it be no props so the motors are not loaded? Maybe it creates electrical characteristics the ESC wasn't designed for.
У меня точно при таких условиях сгорел видео передатчик.
@@benargeeThe answer is very simple. I burned one of the motors which i tried without prop. I think the prop is use to lift the drone as well as cooling off the motor.
Congratulations it’s a boy🎉
Sorry it's trans 😵💫
The funny part is that the motors continued spinning even after the explosion
Thats capacitor explloded, one of many. I think the ESC will work fine after that self-eliminating short circuit)
Per motor you have six mosfets. Every phase has a half bridge, consisting of two mosfets.
Sometimes in this case a phase gets shorted also, leaving one motor with two phases and a stuck phase. (two dead mosfets)
This works somewhat due to the rotational momentum. But the motor has nearly no power and cannot start up anymore.
This happen because the popping cap furthermore reduces capacity and voltage spikes rise above one mosfet capabilities.
This often shorts the high sides and high side to short vbat.
Thats a catastrophic failure for both mosfets.
@@g3gg0 Thank you sir
@@g3gg0 🤓☝
@@Badoonktf is your problem?
for hours ive done this with various speedybee esc models but never got any to pop
i'll explain what happened in this video:
the guy ran his copter without a smoothing capacitor. this is important, because drones run 4 bldc engines that draw high current due to the effect of impedance also amplified by PWM modulated current draw - so it causes it to consume power in impulse like manner and as we know neither of components can be equal, there will always be a difference, even if it is a smallest bit. so as you saw one of tantalum caps exploded because capacitors actually charge and discharge, this you can think as if a current runs through a capacitor which also causes it to heat, so the weakest tantalum capacitor shorted and lost to the battery in a fraction of a second as a result of a produced heat we see this fire show.
actually sometimes they might explode even if they work in specs. poor chinese production. also this copter will remain fully functional after the problem desintegrated itself.
@@WolfPackReins why are tantalum capacitors used?
@@maxxiang8746 they have better ESR capacitor ratio basically this means they better filter fast spikes. so huge cap used to overall smooth the voltage and tantalum ones used to filter out the spikes that always occur in such impedance affected devices
There are NO tantal caps. You will never find tantalum caps there. They are too expensive, sensitive and have ten time higher ESR with higher frequencies.
@@g3gg0 well it depends, might be some type of a ceramic cap, but that makes no other difference, it is still far better to filter out fast spikes than electolitic one.
I have ruined motors from doing static tests without a load on them. The ESC was up to the task but the motors weren't when not loaded. I suspect the same can be said for ESCs if the motors are up to the load, but the ESC isn't. My guess is the energy that would be normally used to turn the props, the load, is turned into heat instead. Whichever component that is the weakest gets too hot and fails.
A motor takes what it needs, so there is no energy 'somewhere' turning in to heat. You can get a feel for it if can read out the current. Without props it does draw hardly any current (except for the startup), when you try to slow it down with your hand the current goes up, like I said it take's what it needs. Therefor it's better to have a bit bigger ESC then the motor needs in power. A bigger ESC does not mean that the motor draws more current. I suspect it's a voltage spike or current spike causing this explosion, the coils in the motor can sometimes generete nasty current/voltage spike's.
@@gatzetech3079 If a motor spins higher than its rated RPM, the wires overheat and fly the motor. A loaded motor won't generally spin higher than the rated RPM unless it's overpowered with higher voltage battery. Motors will also go higher than their rated RPM if they are not loaded with a prop. If you don't believe me, run a motor without a prop using a fully charged LiPo at the motor's highest rated voltage at max power. Or run a motor with or without a prop on a battery higher than its rated voltage.
G3ggo!!!! I just recognized your name from Magic Lantern - you cracked the 7D! You’re my hero! I did so much awesome stuff with that. You’re a LEGEND! You -would- also be into FPV like me. Hahahaha. Thanks again!!!
Nerd will be nerds, cracked 700D user here 😂
Haha. Yes, thats me. Oh yes thats a few years now. Not into development of ML anymore, thats now in the hands of others. but still a bit involved in infrastructure.
Congratulations! You just have accepted ESC manufacturers terms and conditions! A bit late though...
Even if you had a capacity, it would still blow.
how? I build my first drone recently, how to avoid this problem?
@@DogflyFilmdont let the motor spin without propellers. it will definitely stress the esc
Yep this is because of the manufacturer saving TVS diodes, which would harden the circuit for such cases. These caes are not unrealistic. Flying FPV often results in a broken propeller.
@@DogflyFilm how problem do i avoid my motors blowing boom boom
@@tripleyyong Stress in what way? The current flowing during loadless running will be very low.
das exakt gleiche hatte ich auch gestern als ich meine fpv dröhne in beta flight hatte. Das war aber nicht schlimm da ich einfach schlecht gelötet hatte. Durch die Drehung der Motoren hat es wiebriert und so ist der minus xc60 Stecker abgegangen. Dann gab es funken und ich hab die batterie ab gemacht. aber dann habe ich den Kontakt neu gelötet und jetzt geht wieder alles also ist mein fc nicht kaputt
Man u are scaring me im building my first ever fpv drone after dji fpv and I have a 6s build paired up with a 5" quad so why did this happen how do I avoid it.
Voltage spikes can overload the ESC, so just make sure you solder a capacitor to the esc side of the battery lead and you should be fine. Capacitors smooth out the power, so they are essential for any kind of esc. The guy in this video was a bit of an idiot for doing this without a capacitor.
Hopefully you bought the vifly short saver 2
Bless your heart
you should not do this rapit throttle change. this test mode is ment for texting direction and if it cuts off on higher throttle. please use correctly
Flying freestyle results in far more steeper throttle gradients than a windows mouse movement over betaflight configurator over serial can do. Also, no matter how hard i push, the only excuse to fry is overheating :)
@@g3gg0 yeah but the motors wont stop as fast with props on it in real life ... I could give you some lessons in electronics but lets say ... in the real world you demand input and esc tries to get it . and in that scope it is designed. These motor are high inductance with the amps they pull and flux they store.. simply turning them off will avalanche the reverse diode in the mosfet and then blow the capacitor. The actual bell with the prop on it limiting the speed at which this happens saves the mosfet/cap. This case the cap went bye.. and the mosfet survived. Diode test the mosfet to see if it still has an internal diode over the sd. :)
@@3v1BunnyAh, don't get me wrong. Technically you are absolutely right. (I am into electronics for 20 years now). It is a matter of choosing the right operation parameters for your product. Having a lose prop is not uncommon, same as killing two or more props in a crash and turtling after that. This would cause a similar situation.
So my rather offensive "this is no excuse" is towards the very optimistic product design instead of aiming for robustness.
Guess how many ESCs died because of too small extra caps users have to choose on their own.
But that's extra cashflow you gonna miss.
@@Tensentitiesyeah depends on RC smoothing if enabled. However you are right as I've noticed: you can instantly switch from max to min if you move the mouse out of the control's canvas while dragging the bar.
In this test however, I was quite sure that it was linear movement.
I still like my 4s setup! Don't see any reason to switch to 6s.
no smoke stopper my guy
not about cap...electronic component can demage anytime when used
Betaflight is strictly for small tests, that's why it blew up. What's the point in throttling like that while not flying anyway?
My xrotor esc was DOA, gives power to a FC, but no beeps from motors.
Sure u flashed the right firmware on the fc? Had the same issue with my stack once
I have one like that right now after a ‘hard landing’ onto concrete from 60’. Trying to figure out if it’s repairable
A good ESC depends on the luck of the draw. In my experience, the presence or absence of a capacitor is not the cause.
The bigger the cap, the lower the chance to blow your ESC in extreme scenarios (bad prop, turtle mode).
You can win in this lottery, you can lose.
If you have TVS supressor diodes instead, you are definitely safe. Look for e.g. FETtec Spike-Absorber with a good explanation how it works
It is recommended that you don't make your drone explode!
Why does your video always show when i search fpv
The esc low ampe handle??? What reason, i need to know??
he didn't solder a capacitor to the battery pad.
the capacitor sucks up and releases slowly the extra electricity, without it the board shorts.
I had similar situation, and i got replacement. No issue after replacement.
That's crazy lol... lit up pretty good 🙈😆
Which stack do you use?
what brand esc was it? how much amp should it be able to give?
😂 congratulations finding part to fix the problem you created
Well that always sucks.
same things happened to me even after using a smoke stopper 5 or more times then plug the battery in without the smoke stopper and boom :( whats the point if it doesnt stop it or tell you that there is a problem? its a jhemcu 30v 0.5A, well i never knew if the light (red) doesnt come on there is a short , learn somthing new all the time to bad ive blown up a few things as a newbie :( already
Can I know chich frame is it
what frame is that?
regenerative braking?
why did you do that?
Running 6s without a capacitor is down right stupid
Esc stack 30A?
The legend says that the drone is made of iPhone
Bro which motors ur using
Congrats
That's nothing to do with cap probably your soldering at them loads doubt it's cap or the lack of
Why it is failed ? Is it a software bug or a hardware malfunction?
He didnt solder a capacitor to the battery pads
it was just some diode or whatever, nothing unrepairable
Thanks to this video my channel is starting to pop off lol. It says on TH-cam analytics that most people watched my videos from this video
Нагрузки в виде лопастей нет, зачем так газовать то?
im the 600 dreth subscriber!
nice camera filter dude
What is this ESC? what kind of motors?
What software were you using
Betaflight configurator
yea this shit is one of my fears.
I'm really afraid of having a Li-po battery overheat and explode while charging.
6s is like a little fire-bomb.
hiho, old friend. :) You will give ND a heart attack. i still keep in touch with him. daily :)
Give me a hint, with ND i have one guy in mind, but not sure if we refer to the same person.
@@g3gg0 I think am the only gsm guy u know from ph :)
ND the rotterdam guy. :)
ND said RTC :)
@@iaaron888 i knew it. i recently called out for you guys on hackaday. great to read from you :) would you mind to write me to geggo at g3gg0.de?
@@g3gg0 hi, seem I can't logged in. I did send a blind message to ur fb messenger. :)
Fire
E qual seria a solução para não queima, seria comprar vários para fazer teste...kkkkkk
Broke ceramic capacitor,
this happened because you didn't install the top plate. I did the same thing but with a capacitor and the first capacitor burned out
Maybe it was even because I had no VTX attached? Or maybe it was because of that day being a Sunday?
@@g3gg0 its no mavbe
1k rpm difference
Dannmmmm so that's why u need those lol
Wow😮
do not spin motor faster without propeller...
Ooff.... after playing with fire.....esc got burnt lol
RIP Esc 😂
now thats just sad!
From video I see that it was a capacitor in power source network, so just remove it and keep going 😂
автор озвучки пистолета из GTA San Andreas
Нехрен регуль 4s подключать на 6s!!!
las fallas de Valencia
opps
i subed
What the heck 😲
Welcome to reality 😂
🙃🥲🥲🙃
capacitor blow haha
whoops :(
Your fault dont run without props
😂😂
блять коротнуло!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111111
У меня сердце кровью облилось. Он запустил двиги без сглаживающего кондера подключив 6s вместо предназначенных 4s.
ahh xD
bad esc
F
😂😂😂
😆
Da hat jemand Spaß :D und guckt den gleichen Mist 🤣
@@loudspeaker.fpvlions ich war im livestream :)
Next time, install a capacitor
F