That's a compound lever mechanism John 😉 looks like a reasonable quality DIY crimp tool. I have extensive experience of crimping having spent 40 years working for GEC/GEC Alsthom/Alstom. The hydraulic tool should create a squashed hexagon shape with minimal flashing that can easily be filed off. The result you got was a totally inappropriate cable size to crimp (lug) and you would most likely get a quite similar result if you crimped it without any cable at all. We only used hand tools to a maximum of 6mm2 (with compound lever) and 10mm2 plus were all hydraulic for both open and closed type. I would personally use the hand tool for smaller gauge wire and the hydraulic for large stuff which is what it's best at. Absolutely no criticism of you John and purely for educational purposes for anyone viewing this video 👍
These are open barrel terminals. They aren't meant to be squashed in hexagonal shape. The result he got is exactly how open barrel terminals are supposed to be crimped.
@@1idd0kun Hi, I was NOT referring to the open barrel crimps !! John produced a perfect and a not so perfect crimp using the universal tool but that was likely down to a simple case of the settings. In my employment, where I worked for over 40 years (manufacturing traction equipment and electronics for the rail industry) I can say with absolute confidence, the following: The poor crimp would never have passed our rigid inspection or test and as such would never end up on a train that members of the public use. I wouldn't be happy with that crimp at all but I have seen the results that occur from poor crimps. Being a safety critical environment, the only universal tools we used allowed for a specific crimp and a specific wire CSA/gauge. Every single tool was calibrated every 6 months and quarantined immediately if it failed. As every tools individual serial No. was recorded on a comprehensive build sheet, It allowed for complete traceability. We had well over 1,000 tools in the production process. I don't know if you had watched the latter part of the video?? but I can say that the crimps that go with that hydraulic tool were Mecatraction (French manufacture) or copies of and are a closed design. The correct type of tool for those crimps should produce an hexagonal shape 👌
I got those same pliers and lug kit and found your video. I think I’m going to be happy with it they look to make a nice product. I heard of the issue with the wings on the closed barrel terminals and I find if you use the next size down terminal or one that just fits snuggly on the wire you won’t get the wings. When I was using my hydraulic crimper I found all the terminals I got that were the size of the wire were too big and I went a size down and got no wings. The one terminal I didn’t have the smaller size I had to crimp it in both directions multiple times to squeeze the material inward and keep from getting the wings.
A tip for using the hydraulic crimp tool. Start with a size larger die. It will reduce the size of the terminal barrel firts without doing unsightly damage. Then use the next die to finish the job, you will have a much nicer looking terminal..
Open barrel cable lugs have no advantage over barrel cable lugs. The barrel cable lugs on the red cable in the video is just badly crimped. It is visibly deformed so it was not crimped with the correct dies size. That is all. Tubular cable lugs can also be crimped with a dies profile other than hexagonal. For example "W" profile or Quad-point indent crimping. It is always true that each type of cable lugs requires its own specific crimping tool of the appropriate size.
Hello from America John, I use a Lichchamp 16 ton hydraulic closed end crimper for larger cables and it makes a perfect hexagon crimp every time, I don't like using the open C type crimpers because of the reason you showed plus the C frame breaks . I have been thinking about getting that same crimper for smaller cables, so thank you for sharing your thoughts and videos with us, I have decided to order one, thank you. Keep up the good work and stay safe
Your comparison is a hydraulic crimp in a lug far too large for the wire gauge you chose? Unfortunately wire gauge and lug size aren't universal. Deviations exist all over the place and you have to find the lug that the wire most tightly fits into and then find the die that works best with it. You need to be careful that you don't buy lugs that are extremely thin. They also purposely make lugs that are extra thick and I would imagine those would need a die to be slightly oversized to get a proper crimp on the conductor without getting wings Take an angle grinder and cut the ring terminal about halfway up the barrel part that you crimped. A hydraulic crimper will turn any stranded wire (but of course the fine stranded wire used in batteries/welding/car audio is going to look best) into a solid mass of copper. It is glorious
The closed barrel connectors are better (stronger and look nicer) if done properly. Your sample was crimped using a cheap tool with the wrong size die set. Look at the crimps made with a Temco hex crimper and you will no longer think open barrel terminals are better for wires of 8 AWG (53 mm^2) and larger.
@@Italjohn Yes, they do a good job also, especially for smaller wires of 8 AWG or smaller. But for 6 AWG up into the 0000 range, I much prefer a good closed barrel hex crimp simply due to physics. Most metals are stronger in tension than in bending. An open barrel crimp depends on the bending strength of the ears that are folded into the wire. A closed barrel crimp depends on hoop tension of the terminal. Just as pressure vessels like tanks are circular in cross section for maximum strength, a circular cross section terminal connection to a wire will always be superior assuming the same material thickness in the terminal.
You shouldn’t solder automotive wiring, for the same reason you should never use solid wire. Stranded wire and crimping allows the wire to flex without causing fatigue and breakage of the wire.
![[UNCUT] บอสพอล แผลงฤทธิ์ บอสพระ-นักร้อง ก. โดนแฉยับ! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 21 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XKf6HeftoPI/mqdefault.jpg)
Take a look into my Amazon store for more links to stuff I use: www.amazon.com/shop/italjohn13 / www.amazon.co.uk/shop/italjohn13
Great video. Thanks for showing how it is done. I’m a new ham radio operator, a female, and the hardware aspects of the hobby are daunting.
That's a compound lever mechanism John 😉 looks like a reasonable quality DIY crimp tool. I have extensive experience of crimping having spent 40 years working for GEC/GEC Alsthom/Alstom. The hydraulic tool should create a squashed hexagon shape with minimal flashing that can easily be filed off. The result you got was a totally inappropriate cable size to crimp (lug) and you would most likely get a quite similar result if you crimped it without any cable at all. We only used hand tools to a maximum of 6mm2 (with compound lever) and 10mm2 plus were all hydraulic for both open and closed type. I would personally use the hand tool for smaller gauge wire and the hydraulic for large stuff which is what it's best at. Absolutely no criticism of you John and purely for educational purposes for anyone viewing this video 👍
Thanks for the indeept answer, I really appreciate it 👍
These are open barrel terminals. They aren't meant to be squashed in hexagonal shape. The result he got is exactly how open barrel terminals are supposed to be crimped.
@@1idd0kun Hi, I was NOT referring to the open barrel crimps !!
John produced a perfect and a not so perfect crimp using the universal tool but that was likely down to a simple case of the settings.
In my employment, where I worked for over 40 years (manufacturing traction equipment and electronics for the rail industry) I can say with absolute confidence, the following:
The poor crimp would never have passed our rigid inspection or test and as such would never end up on a train that members of the public use. I wouldn't be happy with that crimp at all but I have seen the results that occur from poor crimps.
Being a safety critical environment, the only universal tools we used allowed for a specific crimp and a specific wire CSA/gauge.
Every single tool was calibrated every 6 months and quarantined immediately if it failed. As every tools individual serial No. was recorded on a comprehensive build sheet, It allowed for complete traceability. We had well over 1,000 tools in the production process.
I don't know if you had watched the latter part of the video?? but I can say that the crimps that go with that hydraulic tool were Mecatraction (French manufacture) or copies of and are a closed design.
The correct type of tool for those crimps should produce an hexagonal shape 👌
Great video, till this day.
I got those same pliers and lug kit and found your video. I think I’m going to be happy with it they look to make a nice product. I heard of the issue with the wings on the closed barrel terminals and I find if you use the next size down terminal or one that just fits snuggly on the wire you won’t get the wings. When I was using my hydraulic crimper I found all the terminals I got that were the size of the wire were too big and I went a size down and got no wings. The one terminal I didn’t have the smaller size I had to crimp it in both directions multiple times to squeeze the material inward and keep from getting the wings.
Thanks for letting us know
The same power leverage as bolt cutters! Wow.
A tip for using the hydraulic crimp tool.
Start with a size larger die. It will reduce the size of the terminal barrel firts without doing unsightly damage. Then use the next die to finish the job, you will have a much nicer looking terminal..
Good tip, thanks 👍
Thanks! Love your videos! Very informative 😊
Thanks for the comment Laurie 😀
Open barrel cable lugs have no advantage over barrel cable lugs. The barrel cable lugs on the red cable in the video is just badly crimped.
It is visibly deformed so it was not crimped with the correct dies size. That is all.
Tubular cable lugs can also be crimped with a dies profile other than hexagonal. For example "W" profile or Quad-point indent crimping.
It is always true that each type of cable lugs requires its own specific crimping tool of the appropriate size.
Hello from America John, I use a Lichchamp 16 ton hydraulic closed end crimper for larger cables and it makes a perfect hexagon crimp every time, I don't like using the open C type crimpers because of the reason you showed plus the C frame breaks . I have been thinking about getting that same crimper for smaller cables, so thank you for sharing your thoughts and videos with us, I have decided to order one, thank you. Keep up the good work and stay safe
Thanks for the nice comment 😀.
Excellent tool for crimping.
I think so too 😀
The cable doesnt look like a 4/0, Is the link you put for smaller size cable?
Your comparison is a hydraulic crimp in a lug far too large for the wire gauge you chose?
Unfortunately wire gauge and lug size aren't universal. Deviations exist all over the place and you have to find the lug that the wire most tightly fits into and then find the die that works best with it. You need to be careful that you don't buy lugs that are extremely thin. They also purposely make lugs that are extra thick and I would imagine those would need a die to be slightly oversized to get a proper crimp on the conductor without getting wings
Take an angle grinder and cut the ring terminal about halfway up the barrel part that you crimped.
A hydraulic crimper will turn any stranded wire (but of course the fine stranded wire used in batteries/welding/car audio is going to look best) into a solid mass of copper. It is glorious
You want the little flare on the crimp at the cable side so there is no sharp edge on the terminal so it wouldn't cut into copper wire.
Good tip, thanks for telling us 👍
The closed barrel connectors are better (stronger and look nicer) if done properly. Your sample was crimped using a cheap tool with the wrong size die set. Look at the crimps made with a Temco hex crimper and you will no longer think open barrel terminals are better for wires of 8 AWG (53 mm^2) and larger.
I agree with you, but I sitll love my open barrel crimper 😀
@@Italjohn Yes, they do a good job also, especially for smaller wires of 8 AWG or smaller. But for 6 AWG up into the 0000 range, I much prefer a good closed barrel hex crimp simply due to physics. Most metals are stronger in tension than in bending. An open barrel crimp depends on the bending strength of the ears that are folded into the wire. A closed barrel crimp depends on hoop tension of the terminal. Just as pressure vessels like tanks are circular in cross section for maximum strength, a circular cross section terminal connection to a wire will always be superior assuming the same material thickness in the terminal.
Hvor bor du i Norge? Jeg har lært norsk i over et år nå. Jeg valgte å lære meg norsk på grunn av familiehistorie årsaker.
Very good super strong contact. Can we add solder to it?
Yes you can 👍
Do you think it's over the top to also solder? I find I can't resist!
Adding solder is even better 🙂
You shouldn’t solder automotive wiring, for the same reason you should never use solid wire. Stranded wire and crimping allows the wire to flex without causing fatigue and breakage of the wire.
@@27evan74 Unfortunately the crimp is subject to copper corrosion.
I think it's easier if you clamp the tool in a vise.
I totally agree with you 😄
it's too bad the hydraulic doesn't have the other type of jaw
Dont use solder on crip connection, that’s not recommended to do! A good crimp is by far superior to soldering!
I totally agree with you 👍