J - such fantastic projects and videos, just wish that had given dimensions for everything that you make so that I can recreate accurately rather than guess. you are a clever guy
Great jig! @7:00 always start with the larger drill. Also it's better to use a round base. Otherwise you have to mark the left and right side and always remember which way the router goes.
Nice work BUT, what about using goggles, ear plugs for noise supression, using a push stick on the table saw, no dust extraction. You seem to be very experienced at what you are doing but you never know when an accident is going to happen. Doesn't send out a very good safety message.
A great well thought out jig, I will surely be making one for myself. This isn’t bashing you or trolling but If I may say, I made an observation at the beginning of the video watching you push a board through your table saw without using a push stick. You pushed the off cut through past the blade on the right hand side, then you you reached over the spinning blade to lift out the off cut. This is hugely dangerous which I’m sure you already know. There are 3 immediate things things that come to mind why this practice is extremely dangerous. 1. The more you have cut boards/timber without a push stick you get complacent because it’s become second nature to you, this is where one day, while in auto pilot, you just for a second think about something else followed by looking for your missing fingers. 2. Once in a while a narrow off cut on the fence side can jam making you inadvertently push a little harder, the next thing is your looking for your missing fingers. Those new to woodworking are not always knowledgeable about the dangers of woodworking machines. So they see you pushing material through the saw with just your fingers and no push stick. Being novices they probably won’t know the dangers and may well have an accident followed by them looking for their fingers. There are so many experienced woodworkers that loose their finger’s. You should really be seeing an example my friend. Other than that a great video.👍
J-woodworking목공일기 No problem, thank you for taking the time to post such a well structured easy to follow instructional video. I’ve been looking at some of your previous projects, which are equally impressive. It’s all very well having the knowledge and skill to complete., but having the skills to put together a well structured , informative and easy to follow video takes a lot of experience and talent to produce. You have all of these qualities. With the exception of putting your precious fingers in harms way. I have seen you use a push stick before, in another of your videos so I know you have one :).
Thanks for your kind advice. I'll keep in mind what you point out. I have got this kind of many comments and l haven't deleted them. That's because I want to let watchers know my dangerous performances. Thanks again sir.
Thanks for the video and the jig, it's just what I was looking for.I have watched a lot of videos but yours was the best jig in my opinion thank you again
Why did you leave some space between the opposite fence to the router plate at 02:20? Wouldn’t that space add to the width of the dado and make the dado too wide for the board? Great video by the way! I’m new to woodworking... I thought both fence should be touching the base plate on both sides?
I like your work, it’s very precise! Since you work with your fingers far too close to the blade, I suggest you purchase a SawStop table saw. This way if your fingers ever do accidentally come in contact with the blade, you’ll only get a scratch, and you won’t cut your fingers off.
Great video and I really liked how you built the jig THEN used the router to square the track for the dado cuts. One question... at 2:16 in the video it looked like you left a little space between the router plate and the edge guide on one side. Is this what you did or did I not see it correctly? If this is what you did can you please explain why? I would think both sides - edge guides - should fit snug against the router plate. Thank yo very much - I plant to build my dado jig in the same fashion as you did... Larry
it's for the width of the saw blade. He cuts the jig in half and then puts both parts against eachother. There wouldn't be room to fit the router plate otherwise
Very nice partner, but the cut of the router is round and the piece of wood inserted is square, what about that. If the cut goes all the way till the edge there is no problem. I guess.
this jig would work better and more accurate with a full round router plate. also, if used with side stops and longer sliders, it can be a very handy adjustable medium to big pocket jig.
14:10 as a friend, it is great NOT gteat , But for not knowing our language, you did "great" As a FRIEND, I offer you this below, That I have seen nowhere before, but I offer it to you because I thought of it while watching your video. If, on the underside of your router, you had "two thin flat sliding pieces of wood", with sliding slots, on screws you could adjust and tighten in place, you could adjust those sliding pieces of wood, to fit any router bit diameter. Fat ones or thin ones, big or small. with the diameter of the router bit as a guide the outermost edges of those "two thin flat sliding pieces of wood", would always be the proper distance from the guiding edges you just built in this video. It would work perfectly. Every router bit, thick or thin, big or small, would fit perfectly between your guiding rails, because those "two thin flat sliding pieces of wood" would always be exactly the distance between the outside of the router bit and your guiding rails. Once achieved, it would be perfect.
I was cringing every time your hands got near the table saw blade. Please use a push stick, before you injure yourself. It only takes one little slip of the hands to remove a few fingers. The router jig turned out great. Thanks for sharing with us.
Thank you for a well made video and this tool is something that will be great to use. Would you let me know the purpose of drilling the 4 forstner holes down the centre. I’m guessing it’s for alignment purposes. Many thanks.
Thanks for watching. That's for fastening. I didn't use glue. Later when there's necessity to modify the tool it can be helpful for disassembleing. Thanks for questioning.
J-woodworking목공일기 thanks for your response. I was referring to the holes running down the middle of the board that you cut through the when cutting the board in half, rather than the sliding fasteners at the ends.
@@Paul-eb4dc I would assume the holes he drilled in the jig is to make it easier for you to line up the jig to your work peace that you are looking to dado out. That's just my thought.
Schöner, funktioneller Werkstatthelfer. Werde es für unserer Werkstatt auch bauen. Danke Rudi - Aachen - Deutschland Beautiful, functional workshop assistant. Will build it for our workshop too. Thanks Rudi - Aachen - Germany
hello good afternoon from Spain, I have a question about your project, and when you remove the base of the router and place it in the guide, the straight part touches the side of the guide but the round part looks like you leave a few millimeters and I don't know why. Could you clarify it for me? I do not understand. Should I touch both sides (round and straight) on both sides of the guide? Thank you very much and greetings.
A few millimeters is the same as the saw blade thickness. After sawing the center of the guide, two parts of the guide can fit the router base inside. Thanks for question.
Hello. Just wondering then why didn't you start with 2 pieces to begin with? That way you don't have to guess the thickness of the saw blade. I also have a question about the operation. If you measure the insert piece, then you cut a perfect mortise, it doesn't make sense. Lets say, you piece is zero thickness, your mortise width would be the diameter of the bit. So your way seems like the cut width would be the thickness of the insert + the diameter of the bit. I am confused. Please help me understand. Thanks.
Are you sure you will be able to grow missing fingers back? Cant see how you bring your valuable hands close to running blade. Please use pushing rods instead!!!! What you do is brilliant, but please be careful!!!
I see some others commenting about safety on the table saw, and I'm gonna add to that. Its frightening to watch your table saw technique. No guard is fairly normal, but no riving knife, no hold-downs to prevent/protect from a kickback, no push stick? If that's your shop, you've obviously spent a lot of money on equipment. Spend a little on safety before you lose something you can't replace. And why the crosscuts by raising and lowering the blade? Weird
J-woodworking목공일기 It’s a simple but very effective jig so you ought to be able to build your own without any plans. You don’t need exact dimensions the same as in the video, provided you stick to the same design you’ll be fine.
こんにちは、それは非常に良い考えです！ 有難うございます。 ドイツからの挨拶、ヨーロッパから日本への挨拶 Kon'nichiwa, sore wa hijō ni yoi kangaedesu! Arigatougozaimasu. Doitsu kara no aisatsu, yōroppa kara Nihon e no aisatsu
sorry I do not understand, you cut the base of the jig to fit the base of the router, you then cut the jig in half so you can use an off piece as measurement, however, if you do this now the jig is stretched and the router for it to glide straight it needs to be rotated, in the video you only cut in one direction. Was this part left out of the video or am I missing something?
I agree with this question. What about the routing of the other side of the dado slot? You don't show it, and this makes me suspect that this jig is useful only if the bit cuts a slot of the exactly correct width in a single pass. Please explain how you cut the side of the dado slot further from you.
@@bradscopegems I don't believe it is necessary. That pass is only for the bit width which is accomplished in a single one way pass. You size the dado slot by setting the jig to the width of the piece, tightening the adjusting knobs and then routing both sides for an exact slot dado. That single pass must be done with a bit that will be no bigger in diameter than the narrowest dado to be made. And, that bit size must be used in all future dados cut with the jig. IMHO
@@jamesvibert2118 There are two disadvantages for this design. First, the jig works only with one width of bit. Secondly, because the bit is guided by a different fence when cutting the second side of the dado slot, the router base has to be either perfectly circular or with equal flats exactly symmetrically arranged on each side. A lot of routers have a big cutout on one side of the circular base, which is designed to go against any fence: your jig does not work with this type of router base. Using a template bit instead of a plain bit means that the same jig can be used with any type of router base and with any width of bit, since fences on each side are not necessary.
@@bradscopegems I agree on the bit size needs to be constant as I mentioned. The video shows a slight gap between the base (which has a flat on one side) when assembled. After the cut into two sides I suspect the base would not fit between the sides unless opened slightly. This would then have both sides of the router base tight on the fence side being used in that cut. I have about a dozen routers in my shop with only a third having the flat side on the base. Most have round or custom bases. All, other than trim routers, have directional arrows drawn on them as the bases on routers are not necessarily exactly round and cannot be counted on to be perfectly centered. This is not my jig, I, like you am a subscriber.
@@jamesvibert2118 Thank you for your clear explanation. I will follow your design, since I like the idea of using ordinary bits rather than template bits, but here's an idea: I will screw a metal plate to the base of my Bosch POF 500A router so that it eliminates the cutout and has one accurately straight side at a distance from the centre of the bit a few millimeters more than the radius of the circular edge of the original base. I will always use this side to hold against the fence. This has the advantage that I will be able to cut all the dado widths I want using just the one 1/4 inch width bit, and since the two halves of the jig will then be identical, I will be able to cut dados only slightly wider than 1/4 if required. There will always be a gap between the unused side of the base and the unused adjacent fence, so the base will never stick, even if the two sides of the jig have been set by tightening against a 1/4 inch sheet. Does this make sense?
Very nice! Sure saves a lot of time from messing with dado blade adjustment for fixed cabinet shelves. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching sir.
Great to see the face behind brilliant wood working love your videos sir.jack in Ireland
J - such fantastic projects and videos, just wish that had given dimensions for everything that you make so that I can recreate accurately rather than guess. you are a clever guy
I made a different exact width jig. It works, but I wish I had built this one. Great idea, and great techniques. Thank you!
Thanks for watching sir.
I’ve never seen anyone do a crosscut like that! It’s so simple and precise!
Thanks for watching sir.
you mean bringing blade from below with static wood piece? seems quite dangerous for kickback. but looks cool.
I don’t see any reason to do it that way.
Somebody give this man a workbench!
Nice, nice, nice piece of work.
Thanks for watching sir.
Great jig!
@7:00 always start with the larger drill. Also it's better to use a round base. Otherwise you have to mark the left and right side and always remember which way the router goes.
Nice work BUT, what about using goggles, ear plugs for noise supression, using a push stick on the table saw, no dust extraction. You seem to be very experienced at what you are doing but you never know when an accident is going to happen. Doesn't send out a very good safety message.
This genius, really well done!
Awesome projects..I been learning a lot from you Mr..
A great well thought out jig, I will surely be making one for myself.
This isn’t bashing you or trolling but If I may say, I made an observation at the beginning of the video watching you push a board through your table saw without using a push stick. You pushed the off cut through past the blade on the right hand side, then you you reached over the spinning blade to lift out the off cut. This is hugely dangerous which I’m sure you already know. There are 3 immediate things things that come to mind why this practice is extremely dangerous. 1. The more you have cut boards/timber without a push stick you get complacent because it’s become second nature to you, this is where one day, while in auto pilot, you just for a second think about something else followed by looking for your missing fingers. 2. Once in a while a narrow off cut on the fence side can jam making you inadvertently push a little harder, the next thing is your looking for your missing fingers. Those new to woodworking are not always knowledgeable about the dangers of woodworking machines. So they see you pushing material through the saw with just your fingers and no push stick. Being novices they probably won’t know the dangers and may well have an accident followed by them looking for their fingers. There are so many experienced woodworkers that loose their finger’s. You should really be seeing an example my friend. Other than that a great video.👍
J-woodworking목공일기
No problem, thank you for taking the time to post such a well structured easy to follow instructional video. I’ve been looking at some of your previous projects, which are equally impressive. It’s all very well having the knowledge and skill to complete., but having the skills to put together a well structured , informative and easy to follow video takes a lot of experience and talent to produce. You have all of these qualities. With the exception of putting your precious fingers in harms way. I have seen you use a push stick before, in another of your videos so I know you have one :).
Thanks for your kind advice.
I'll keep in mind what you point out.
I have got this kind of many comments and l haven't deleted them. That's because I want to let watchers know my dangerous performances.
Thanks again sir.
Thanks for your kind comment.
This is a very clever build.
I would like to build one.
Thanks for sharing
TRAVAIL MAGNIFIQUE BELLE REALISATION. BELLES PRISES DE VUE.. FELICITATIONS.
iI AM A FRENCH """ BRICOLEUR "" 👍👍👍
Thanks for the video and the jig, it's just what I was looking for.I have watched a lot of videos but yours was the best jig in my opinion thank you again
Excellent build. I like it a lot.
Thanks for watching sir.
다양한 지그를 참 많이도 만드시네요. 그런데 이것의 경우 몇 밀리 비트를 사용하십니까?
I believe I will build that jig. Very nice. Thank you.
It will help you a lot.
Thanks for watching lady.
Thank you for your video. I'll do the same tools. Very good explanation,
Thank you very much... from France
Thanks for watching sir.
Being a router beginner this build is exactly what I need to add to my collection of wood working jibs. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching sir.
When you can use a router. You will be a real woodworker. I hope you make it.
Good idea and nice work! 👍 👍
Thanks for watching sir.
Great job, well done and a very precise jig! Thanks for sharing and greatings from Germany. Robert
excellent Jig. Great job
Thanks for watching sir.
Great jig now subscriber
Great Video Tutorial ! Thank You. Could you tell me the buying source for the handles you have for your router jig ?
At a local shop.
Thanks for watching sir.
Nice job.
Why did you leave some space between the opposite fence to the router plate at 02:20? Wouldn’t that space add to the width of the dado and make the dado too wide for the board? Great video by the way! I’m new to woodworking... I thought both fence should be touching the base plate on both sides?
Good job, but a plan would be nice!
On.my bucket list to make this thanks for sharing
Thanks sir.
Precise and clean work my friend. Great job. Have you made or update this to add a stops that are sliding also?
Sorry I haven't.
Thanks for watching friend.
Brilliant as usual. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Thanks.
Nice work, but to make me feel more relaxed while watching, please use a push stick.
Thanks for your kind advice.
Does your router bit have a top bearing on it or is it simply a straight bit? Thank you for this video.
It's a simple straight bit.
Thanks for watching sir.
very nice great video
You do really good work!!
Thanks for watching sir.
I like your work, it’s very precise! Since you work with your fingers far too close to the blade, I suggest you purchase a SawStop table saw. This way if your fingers ever do accidentally come in contact with the blade, you’ll only get a scratch, and you won’t cut your fingers off.
nice work. what's the purpose of the 4x roughly 4cm holes bored @4:28?
Excellent Jig and build video. Thanks for sharing
very nice man very detailed and clean
BEAUTIFUL PRECISION WORKMANSHIP....
Thanks for watching sir.
Great video and I really liked how you built the jig THEN used the router to square the track for the dado cuts. One question... at 2:16 in the video it looked like you left a little space between the router plate and the edge guide on one side. Is this what you did or did I not see it correctly? If this is what you did can you please explain why? I would think both sides - edge guides - should fit snug against the router plate. Thank yo very much - I plant to build my dado jig in the same fashion as you did... Larry
it's for the width of the saw blade. He cuts the jig in half and then puts both parts against eachother. There wouldn't be room to fit the router plate otherwise
Thanks - yeah, eventually I figured that out :)
amazing work! very helpful.. thanks for the video
Very nice partner, but the cut of the router is round and the piece of wood inserted is square, what about that. If the cut goes all the way till the edge there is no problem. I guess.
Right. But related jigs can't solve everything.
Thanks for watching sir.
Vary nice idea.
this jig would work better and more accurate with a full round router plate. also, if used with side stops and longer sliders, it can be a very handy adjustable medium to big pocket jig.
Thanks for watching sir.
Este é perfeito. Parabéns. Fortaleza, Brasil
14:10 as a friend, it is great NOT gteat , But for not knowing our language, you did "great"
As a FRIEND, I offer you this below, That I have seen nowhere before, but I offer it to you because I thought of it while watching your video.
If, on the underside of your router, you had "two thin flat sliding pieces of wood", with sliding slots, on screws you could adjust and tighten in place, you could adjust those sliding pieces of wood, to fit any router bit diameter. Fat ones or thin ones, big or small. with the diameter of the router bit as a guide the outermost edges of those "two thin flat sliding pieces of wood", would always be the proper distance from the guiding edges you just built in this video. It would work perfectly. Every router bit, thick or thin, big or small, would fit perfectly between your guiding rails, because those "two thin flat sliding pieces of wood" would always be exactly the distance between the outside of the router bit and your guiding rails. Once achieved, it would be perfect.
I was cringing every time your hands got near the table saw blade. Please use a push stick, before you injure yourself. It only takes one little slip of the hands to remove a few fingers.
The router jig turned out great. Thanks for sharing with us.
Yes, I use the push stick now.
Sorry I made you concerned.
A very clever idea. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks sir.
Thanks for this video. Really great video. Thanks for sharing, I'm gonna try this.
Thanks for watching sir.
Very nice not sure why the holes are there though
Through the holes I can see the cutting lines and the situation of underneath boards.
Thanks for watching sir.
Gracias amigo saludos desde Copiapó tercera región de Chile
Nice job, but use push sticks. It only takes one time.
I use a push stick these days.
Thanks for your kind concern sir.
Thank you for a well made video and this tool is something that will be great to use. Would you let me know the purpose of drilling the 4 forstner holes down the centre. I’m guessing it’s for alignment purposes. Many thanks.
Thanks for watching.
That's for fastening. I didn't use glue.
Later when there's necessity to modify the tool it can be helpful for disassembleing.
Thanks for questioning.
J-woodworking목공일기 thanks for your response. I was referring to the holes running down the middle of the board that you cut through the when cutting the board in half, rather than the sliding fasteners at the ends.
@@Paul-eb4dc I would assume the holes he drilled in the jig is to make it easier for you to line up the jig to your work peace that you are looking to dado out. That's just my thought.
That's right.
Thanks for your kind response.
Cool it works great
Thanks for watching sir.
Schöner, funktioneller Werkstatthelfer. Werde es für unserer Werkstatt auch bauen. Danke Rudi - Aachen - Deutschland
Beautiful, functional workshop assistant. Will build it for our workshop too. Thanks Rudi - Aachen - Germany
Thanks for watching sir.
Nice construction, please keep up the good work with your website.
Thanks.
Yes I will keep continuing.
First video of yours I’ve seen. Clever solution.
Great idea, thanks for sharing. Definitely will do that...
Thanks for watching sir.
Muito bom 👍
Супер,молодец!!!
Thanks for watching sir.
Add a couple stop blocks that lock down to the jig so you can't overrun the end of the cut.
Thanks for your kind advice sir.
Hello, Very nice réalisation👍👍👍 thanks to you. Norbert ( France)
Thanks a lot sir.
- Excellent job.
Thanks for watching sir.
Great design
Thanks for watching sir.
0:30. What are you doing?! What if someone will copy you?
Please advise the size of the wood pieces and cuts
Muitos parabéns. Bons vídeos.
Great job !!!
3/4인치 두께의 plywood인가요?
길이와 폭을 알수 있을까요?
감사합니다.
10\10 for creativity
10\10 for fingers but possibly more by luck than judgement. Very questionable safety technique 🤔
Just subscribed great job J.🤗
Thanks for your subscription sir.
Good Job. Thanks for sharing. ;-)
Thanks sir.
hello good afternoon from Spain, I have a question about your project, and when you remove the base of the router and place it in the guide, the straight part touches the side of the guide but the round part looks like you leave a few millimeters and I don't know why. Could you clarify it for me? I do not understand.
Should I touch both sides (round and straight) on both sides of the guide?
Thank you very much and greetings.
A few millimeters is the same as the saw blade thickness.
After sawing the center of the guide, two parts of the guide can fit the router base inside.
Thanks for question.
Hello. Just wondering then why didn't you start with 2 pieces to begin with? That way you don't have to guess the thickness of the saw blade.
I also have a question about the operation. If you measure the insert piece, then you cut a perfect mortise, it doesn't make sense. Lets say, you piece is zero thickness, your mortise width would be the diameter of the bit. So your way seems like the cut width would be the thickness of the insert + the diameter of the bit. I am confused. Please help me understand. Thanks.
So u just use a straight bit with no collar?
Yes, just straight bit.
Thanks for watching sir.
Are you sure you will be able to grow missing fingers back?
Cant see how you bring your valuable hands close to running blade.
Please use pushing rods instead!!!!
What you do is brilliant, but please be careful!!!
Thanks for your kind advice sir.
- Nice job.
I see some others commenting about safety on the table saw, and I'm gonna add to that. Its frightening to watch your table saw technique. No guard is fairly normal, but no riving knife, no hold-downs to prevent/protect from a kickback, no push stick? If that's your shop, you've obviously spent a lot of money on equipment. Spend a little on safety before you lose something you can't replace. And why the crosscuts by raising and lowering the blade? Weird
아! 역시 멋지십니다. 이제 톱질하고 이것 저것 연습중입니다. 감사합니다.
반갑습니다
저도 다른 사람들의 유튜브 영상을 보고 많이 배웁니다
일취월장 기대합니다
Круто!
Please, protect your hand!
Sooooooo scary to watch this guy on the table saw, but hey - nice work either way.
Still. someone get this guy some protective equipment!!!
Sorry about that. I'll be careful sir.
Why we need this jig and we don't use the router fence.
Someone could need the jig.
If unnecessary, it's enough to make a smile. Thanks.
@@j-woodworking9573 Thanks for answering, thousand smiles!
What brand is that drill & screw gun? Thanks.
That's too old to use longer. And it's not for professional one. I'm going to buy different one. Sorry. I don't think my model is necessary for you.
I get jokes 😂
Your work is very good, nice jig. That being said, put a new #2 bit in the drill for your professional looking video. Made me cringe every time .
do you have any planss?
Sorry I don't have.
Never saw anyone use a table saw as a chop saw. Plus, i would have used a push block while ripping in the earlier part of the video.
Where can it be purchase!!!😄
Sorry it's just for me.
Thanks for watching sir.
Nice work, but extremely annoying music in the beginning of the video.
Sorry about that.
Thanks for watching sir.
WARNING Hope no one uses a table saw like this in video. Very scary he going to get a lot hurt. NEVER DO WHAT HE SHOWS AT 2:50
Phillips head screws make me wince
Sorry about that sir.
Excellent
Thanks for watching sir.
Very Clever
Thanks sir.
very good jig and excellent video showing its production. Thank you for sharing! Like and sub for you today.
Thank you very much sir.
Way past my pay grade but great jig
I wonder how many fingers this guy has nowadays.
I'll be careful.
Thanks for watching sir.
@@j-woodworking9573 If you were being careful I would not have said anything.
Ever heard of a push stick
Thanks for watching sir.
I'll accept your concern.
Great project, Where can I download plans please?
sorry.
I didn't prepare the plans.
J-woodworking목공일기
It’s a simple but very effective jig so you ought to be able to build your own without any plans. You don’t need exact dimensions the same as in the video, provided you stick to the same design you’ll be fine.
Thanks
You did explain instead of me.
Some really unsafe table saw use here
Well done.
こんにちは、それは非常に良い考えです！ 有難うございます。 ドイツからの挨拶、ヨーロッパから日本への挨拶
Kon'nichiwa, sore wa hijō ni yoi kangaedesu! Arigatougozaimasu. Doitsu kara no aisatsu, yōroppa kara Nihon e no aisatsu
ありがとうございます。
sorry I do not understand, you cut the base of the jig to fit the base of the router, you then cut the jig in half so you can use an off piece as measurement, however, if you do this now the jig is stretched and the router for it to glide straight it needs to be rotated, in the video you only cut in one direction. Was this part left out of the video or am I missing something?
I agree with this question. What about the routing of the other side of the dado slot? You don't show it, and this makes me suspect that this jig is useful only if the bit cuts a slot of the exactly correct width in a single pass. Please explain how you cut the side of the dado slot further from you.
@@bradscopegems I don't believe it is necessary. That pass is only for the bit width which is accomplished in a single one way pass. You size the dado slot by setting the jig to the width of the piece, tightening the adjusting knobs and then routing both sides for an exact slot dado. That single pass must be done with a bit that will be no bigger in diameter than the narrowest dado to be made. And, that bit size must be used in all future dados cut with the jig. IMHO
@@jamesvibert2118 There are two disadvantages for this design. First, the jig works only with one width of bit. Secondly, because the bit is guided by a different fence when cutting the second side of the dado slot, the router base has to be either perfectly circular or with equal flats exactly symmetrically arranged on each side. A lot of routers have a big cutout on one side of the circular base, which is designed to go against any fence: your jig does not work with this type of router base. Using a template bit instead of a plain bit means that the same jig can be used with any type of router base and with any width of bit, since fences on each side are not necessary.
@@bradscopegems I agree on the bit size needs to be constant as I mentioned. The video shows a slight gap between the base (which has a flat on one side) when assembled. After the cut into two sides I suspect the base would not fit between the sides unless opened slightly. This would then have both sides of the router base tight on the fence side being used in that cut. I have about a dozen routers in my shop with only a third having the flat side on the base. Most have round or custom bases. All, other than trim routers, have directional arrows drawn on them as the bases on routers are not necessarily exactly round and cannot be counted on to be perfectly centered. This is not my jig, I, like you am a subscriber.
@@jamesvibert2118 Thank you for your clear explanation. I will follow your design, since I like the idea of using ordinary bits rather than template bits, but here's an idea:
I will screw a metal plate to the base of my Bosch POF 500A router so that it eliminates the cutout and has one accurately straight side
at a distance from the centre of the bit a few millimeters more than the radius of the circular edge of the original base. I will always use this side to hold against the fence. This has the advantage that I will be able to cut all the dado widths I want using just the one 1/4 inch width bit, and since the two halves of the jig will then be identical, I will be able to cut dados only slightly wider than 1/4 if required. There will always be a gap between the unused side of the base and the unused adjacent fence, so the base will never stick, even if the two sides of the jig have been set by tightening against a 1/4 inch sheet. Does this make sense?