I just recently completed this project and your video really helped--a picture truly is worth a thousand words. Having said that, I want to point out something for the benefit of others contemplating making one of theses. I built mine for use with a Bosch plunge router which has a larger base than the one used here. I had to re-build the fences with my router in mind. I also adjusted the lengths of the end spacer blocks. We're not talking about much, just a half inch or so but it will be important for the usability of the jig.
This is a great jig...I see myself building this in the next couple of weeks. Really like the videos from Woodsmith. Very simple, detailed instructions. Perfect for a hobby guy like myself.
Thanks! We've really like using this jig too. We just used it in an episode for Season 13 of the Woodsmith Shop making a hardware cart that had a lot of dadoes - worked great.
Just purchased the plans from Woodsmith and hope to build this jig soon!. Both videos, of Logan's build and the how-to-use it will come in handy. Thanks for the coupon code for 25% savings!!
Built one oof these a few years back. Works really well, especially for “odd” dados, like plywood that is just a bit different than full width, or hand-planed boards that may not be 100% the same one t’other.
Great jig. I like the grooves at both ends of the hard board. I’ve been making jigs for my new router. Glad you pointed out that you will have to use the same bit for all the dadoes you make on this jig.
I notice you're using Titebond II , there. I suspect that, if you are in a humid zone (Texas, Louisiana, Florida), you may have a bad experience with TBII -- I did several glue ups on a simple lap joint, and as late as 36h later, they were dry on the outer edges, but still not even partly set inside. They failed on simple hand pressure. The humidity is relevant because TBII works by giving off moisture. With humidity, or moderately moist wood, it can't give up the moisture needed to set. Titebond III works the opposite -- it sets by sucking moisture OUT of its surroundings. So I've found it to be much more effective in a humid location, or with moist wood (as it often is, from a big box store -- and you don't always want to wait for a week for it to dry out fully**). The downside to this is that there's likely to be more cleanup involved, because TBIII foams as it sets, which means it tends to leave bubbles out where they have to be sanded or otherwise removed. Thought this was worth sharing. Hope others find it of use. ==== ** Yes, it may warp as it does dry, but that's another consideration and concern, and may not apply to your project.
Nick, interesting about the Titebond 2 and 3. What does the original Titebond do? The red label stuff? I use that usually because I can get a large bottle of that for the same price as a small bottle of the Blue (Titebond 2).
Greetings, I'm curious as to why the carriage bolts were not fully seated in the end blocks? And in the "How to use this jig" video it's mentioned that the clamping block has a quick release feature...how is that possible if the bit of all thread is epoxied in place? Inquiring minds want to know! And by the way, you guys are doing it right!! Please continue!
What’s purpose of the hardboard? The router, as mentioned slides against the 3/4” plywood long rail. Does it just provide a visual reference for the dado cut?
You may have already resolved this question. If the piece the dado is being cut for is inserted between the hardboard ZCI the final dado will be perfectly matched to the shelf. They also create an additional air gap allowing chip removal more successfully
Get the step-by-step plans to build the Router Dado Jig here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/router-dado-jig/?apid=36564 Watch the video on how to use this jig here: th-cam.com/video/pk4gQjMjtGM/w-d-xo.html
You Need a Dust Mask and a Square I'm a long time subscriber to the magazine. But 3:30, you're cutting MDF and the router is spewing dust everywhere and you're not wearing a mask. At 6:04, you're gluing this jig up, but don't use a square to make sure the fixed fence is square to the edge guide. Other than that, this a great video and a great project. Thanks for the time in doing this.
A bit off topic, but how many zero clearance inserts are recommended to be made for a 6" dado stack that ranges from 1/4" to 29/32"? At what width would you lose support on your work piece and get chip out? I would imagine that you would not want to use an zero clearance insert cut to the max shimmed dado width on a 1/4" dado cut.
You mention that the actual dims of plywood are not their nominal dims. There ARE undersized bits set up specifically for the purpose of working with plywood. A search on Amazon (or Google) for "undersized plywood router bits" will find a set for you.
They are pretty similar, but I believe the tempered hardboard that we use is a little harder and more durable than MDF. I'll do a little research to see if I can find out the exact specifications for each.
Just curious why you would not use somethng akin to this for your clamp segment? It did not appear to be what you used, however. "Tube Ends Threaded Insert, Steel, 3/4-16 Threads"
The author does like to from scratch, th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Hey man. The project is interesting, I think very useful, but if you spoke less and showed more it would become excellent. I couldn't watch everything. His chatter takes away interest and patience. But, it is just my opinion. I wish you success. Oi, cara. O projeto é interessante, creio que muito útil, mas se você falasse menos e mostrasse mais ele se tornaria excelente. Não consegui assistir tudo. O seu falatório tira o interesse e a paciência. Mas, é apenas a minha opinião. Desejo-lhe sucesso.
I just recently completed this project and your video really helped--a picture truly is worth a thousand words. Having said that, I want to point out something for the benefit of others contemplating making one of theses. I built mine for use with a Bosch plunge router which has a larger base than the one used here. I had to re-build the fences with my router in mind. I also adjusted the lengths of the end spacer blocks. We're not talking about much, just a half inch or so but it will be important for the usability of the jig.
I think all of us like those "one time tools" that a certain manufacturer offers, but the prices are astronomical! Thanks for alternatives like this!
Those "one time tools" are for the one percenters.
This is a great jig...I see myself building this in the next couple of weeks.
Really like the videos from Woodsmith. Very simple, detailed instructions. Perfect for a hobby guy like myself.
Thanks! We've really like using this jig too. We just used it in an episode for Season 13 of the Woodsmith Shop making a hardware cart that had a lot of dadoes - worked great.
Just purchased the plans from Woodsmith and hope to build this jig soon!. Both videos, of Logan's build and the how-to-use it will come in handy. Thanks for the coupon code for 25% savings!!
Great! Let us know how the build goes.
I like it. One more Jig to add to my ToDo List. Thanks for another reason to get back into "The Shop""
I would like to have seen the jig in use.
We showed using it in another video. You can see that here: th-cam.com/video/pk4gQjMjtGM/w-d-xo.html
Built one oof these a few years back. Works really well, especially for “odd” dados, like plywood that is just a bit different than full width, or hand-planed boards that may not be 100% the same one t’other.
Great jig. I like the grooves at both ends of the hard board. I’ve been making jigs for my new router. Glad you pointed out that you will have to use the same bit for all the dadoes you make on this jig.
That is really simple & accurate
Thanks!
I notice you're using Titebond II , there. I suspect that, if you are in a humid zone (Texas, Louisiana, Florida), you may have a bad experience with TBII -- I did several glue ups on a simple lap joint, and as late as 36h later, they were dry on the outer edges, but still not even partly set inside. They failed on simple hand pressure. The humidity is relevant because TBII works by giving off moisture. With humidity, or moderately moist wood, it can't give up the moisture needed to set.
Titebond III works the opposite -- it sets by sucking moisture OUT of its surroundings. So I've found it to be much more effective in a humid location, or with moist wood (as it often is, from a big box store -- and you don't always want to wait for a week for it to dry out fully**).
The downside to this is that there's likely to be more cleanup involved, because TBIII foams as it sets, which means it tends to leave bubbles out where they have to be sanded or otherwise removed.
Thought this was worth sharing. Hope others find it of use.
====
** Yes, it may warp as it does dry, but that's another consideration and concern, and may not apply to your project.
Nick, interesting about the Titebond 2 and 3. What does the original Titebond do? The red label stuff? I use that usually because I can get a large bottle of that for the same price as a small bottle of the Blue (Titebond 2).
Greetings, I'm curious as to why the carriage bolts were not fully seated in the end blocks? And in the "How to use this jig" video it's mentioned that the clamping block has a quick release feature...how is that possible if the bit of all thread is epoxied in place? Inquiring minds want to know! And by the way, you guys are doing it right!! Please continue!
Do you think it would be worth adding an extra lip on each end of the adjustable fence to keep it perfectly square?
I don't know, it seems to work pretty well without it, but it's worth a try.
What’s purpose of the hardboard? The router, as mentioned slides against the 3/4” plywood long rail. Does it just provide a visual reference for the dado cut?
You may have already resolved this question. If the piece the dado is being cut for is inserted between the hardboard ZCI the final dado will be perfectly matched to the shelf. They also create an additional air gap allowing chip removal more successfully
What are the modifications you made to the plans?
Get the step-by-step plans to build the Router Dado Jig here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/router-dado-jig/?apid=36564
Watch the video on how to use this jig here: th-cam.com/video/pk4gQjMjtGM/w-d-xo.html
You Need a Dust Mask and a Square
I'm a long time subscriber to the magazine.
But 3:30, you're cutting MDF and the router is spewing dust everywhere and you're not wearing a mask.
At 6:04, you're gluing this jig up, but don't use a square to make sure the fixed fence is square to the edge guide.
Other than that, this a great video and a great project. Thanks for the time in doing this.
You are correct... it can always be done safer and better. Thanks for the reminder. 👍
how do you use it? how it works
be neat to see it in use
We show it being used in this video: th-cam.com/video/pk4gQjMjtGM/w-d-xo.html
ShopNotes Issue 76. It would be nice to let people know where this came from. I still have my issue.
A bit off topic, but how many zero clearance inserts are recommended to be made for a 6" dado stack that ranges from 1/4" to 29/32"? At what width would you lose support on your work piece and get chip out? I would imagine that you would not want to use an zero clearance insert cut to the max shimmed dado width on a 1/4" dado cut.
You mention that the actual dims of plywood are not their nominal dims. There ARE undersized bits set up specifically for the purpose of working with plywood.
A search on Amazon (or Google) for "undersized plywood router bits" will find a set for you.
Hardboard is that the same as mdf?
They are pretty similar, but I believe the tempered hardboard that we use is a little harder and more durable than MDF. I'll do a little research to see if I can find out the exact specifications for each.
Hardboard is also known as Masonite in some parts of the world.
Can I buy one
Possible to get the drawings in metric?
I'll see what I can do.
1 inch = 2.54cm the rest is done by the calculator
Just curious why you would not use somethng akin to this for your clamp segment? It did not appear to be what you used, however.
"Tube Ends Threaded Insert, Steel, 3/4-16 Threads"
Come on!
I want to see you hang the table saw upside down and cut a dadoe!
Don't challenge us - we'll do it! :)
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 🤣
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine
Just keep in mind that it will be easier with a work site model than a cabinet model.
Oh I get it now... Is that why you can't have enough clamps?
0:18 "I'm not talking about hanging your table saw upside down either."
+1 on more clamps.
It's like needing more cow bell.
The author does like to from scratch, th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
It would be nice if you could actually show it being used.
We show it being used in this video: th-cam.com/video/pk4gQjMjtGM/w-d-xo.html
I dozed off.
I watch the show as well. One critique i have... dude, PLEASE stop talking with your hands!! Otherwise great!
no test lol
Hey man. The project is interesting, I think very useful, but if you spoke less and showed more it would become excellent. I couldn't watch everything. His chatter takes away interest and patience.
But, it is just my opinion. I wish you success.
Oi, cara. O projeto é interessante, creio que muito útil, mas se você falasse menos e mostrasse mais ele se tornaria excelente. Não consegui assistir tudo. O seu falatório tira o interesse e a paciência.
Mas, é apenas a minha opinião. Desejo-lhe sucesso.