If I buy a used ski with look pivot bindings can I adjust the binding to the new size of my boot on these bindings. I've always used Marker bindings which give you some flexibility. Thanks
Hi! Thanks for the video! What do you do if there is a ~4mm space under the boot sole at the heel while the forward pressure indicator looks to be in place? Tigheting forward pressure decreases the space but the elastic travel also disappears which seems not to be a proper set up. Thank you in advance for any help!
Always best to see a shop tech for these sort of things. The sole of your boot could be worn out a bit? Also, if you put downward pressure on the boot does the boot sole make contact?
@@TheSkiMonster Thank you for the quick repsone! Yes, when I put downward pressure on the boot the boot sole makes contact - but if the pressure is removed from the boot then the sole rises again so that the brakes move up and down. The sole is slightly worn but definitely not half a centimeter. Not sure if I can trust the local shop tech now after such a mounting 😅 So the heel of a boot shouldn't be going up and down in a properly set up Pivot binding and needs to fully press the brake, is that correct? I could then adjust the forward pressure so that the sole presses the brake properly I think?
Ski technician in shops now a days are 14 year olds earning minimum wage with no experience which have been trained with 5 min crash course by the shop owner.
I recently bought new boots and their length is significantly shorter so to get the forward pressure right I need to tighten those stems the whole way past the last hashmarks. Is it okay to tighten them that much or should I remount the binding?
If the forward pressure indicator looks good and the boot fits into the binding without getting pinched then you’re good to go. If things are off then better to re-mount.
Hi! Thanks for your take on setting them up. What do you do with a pair where the forward pressure indicator is stuck and does not change much when you regulate the distancing screws on the sides? I tried to 'reset' it but this didn't help much. I read through many pages on this topic on newschoolers forum, but still not 100% sure how to do it correctly. Cheers!
@ngszyba, honestly you should go see a certified binding technician with your skis, bindings, and a boot. They can test the release and make sure things are working correctly. If your forward pressure indicator is stuck, there is likely to be something wrong or broken. Send some pictures to support@theskimonster.com if you are in a pinch
Hi! I have the same issue. The indicator won't move much even when tighten the bindings till barely fit the boot. I have two pairs of Look Pivot and its in both of them. @@TheSkiMonster
Thanks for the video. It has been really educational. I am facing the same issue as well and noticed that adjusting the pressure to the limit actually causes the arm to dig into my boots at a weird angle, unable to fully snap in
@@lukzet1 Could be a few things. Maybe you just need to re-mount your pivots. They do have a small adjustment range when compared to Attack or Griffon. Sometimes the black plastic part above the forward pressure indicator can slide on top of the white forward pressure indicator. When this happens you can usually re-set by swinging the entire heel turn table from the 6 o'clock position out to about 3 and then back to 6 o'clock.
@@alvinteh4831 How much did your boot sole length change from your old boot to your new boot? If you have to slam the adjustment screws you might need a remount.
If there's no AFD adjustment, does that mean using different boots in the binding makes no difference? And there's no way to make allowance for wear & tear on the toe lug/heel?
@Benzknees, , As always its super important to get your bindings adjusted by a certified shop technician. There have been different versions of Pivot toes over the years, so its important to look at the markings on the AFD plate to know what is compatible. In model year 23/24, these gold Pivot 15's have a logo that says "Gripwalk A" This means the toes are compatible with regular adult DIN soles (aka ISO5355) as well as the more prevalent Gripwalk soles found on many boots. You would want to avoid the older WTR soles and also avoid full rubber touring type soles too. Yes you are correct, with a non-adjustable AFD there is no way to fine tune for toe wear so get new toes/heels for your boots if they look questionable.
I had one binding set properly and it had tons of side to side play compared to the other with identical settings. Whats the reason for this? I ended up increasing the pressure to give it less movement by maybe a half turn on the adjustment arms and now it’s stiffer and matches the other binding
@grrham, are your bindings brand new? Or do we have a fair amount of days on them? When you say set properly does that mean the forward pressure indicator reads correctly? Maybe the jig slipped and one ski was mounted slightly further apart. Maybe the bindings are old and worn out. Maybe the boot has some wear causing the play. If you need more help you could send us some photos to support@theskimonster.com
@@TheSkiMonster brand new bindings and brand new boots. I think you are right about the jig being uneven. I got both matched with the same amount of side to side play and one is noticeably shorter on the adjustment arms
I just bought online skis with already mounted Look Pivot 14 bindings. The posting says it fits a BSL of 305mm to 320mm ... My boots are 318mm ,,, I am driving 80 miles to pick up but before I do I want to confirm with you, the experts, that I should be ok and should not need to have the bindings remounted (I get that a certified professional should do all this, but I just want to know if the numbers sound ok to you that the bindings should be able to be adjusted without having to remount)
With a pivot its hard to say 100% if this is going to work without a remount. If the posting says 305-320, I am guessing they mounted the skis to ~313mm. If so, there is a good chance the 318mm will fit in there without a re-mount.
What do you think my DIN should be? For reference, I am at a 9 right now. Im 6'3, 160 lbs, and an advanced skier. I love doing cliff drops (5-10 ft), goin fast down the slopes. I also like to do big park jumps. I have been ejected a few times at 9, but am scared I'll get hurt if its higher. Input? Thanks.
Your DIN setting is based on height, weight, age, skier ability, and boot sole length in millimeters so we honestly don't have enough info here. You could google a DIN calculator to make a better educated decision. Its always a good idea to get your bindings adjusted and tested by a certified ski shop with a binding testing machine. Ski bindings are designed to keep you on your skis when they should and release you when they should. If you crashed hard and released at a DIN of 9 then the binding is likely doing its job.
@@TheSkiMonster The Look Technical Manual suggests otherwise. Quote: Boot should always be engaged in binding system when adjusting indicator settings.
@@cheetah694 you’re right it does say that, but it doesn’t make a difference for DIN. The boot does need to be engaged then released and reengaged to adjust forward pressure.
@@TheSkiMonster The issue is that sometimes the readings differ with and without a boot engaged. This is the case for both of my Pivot 15 toe pieces for example. Not the case for all bindings, I know, but it happens to other people as well. So I guess that's why they have that note in their manual.
Luc never ski raced, graduated UVM in 2021 and has mounted more bindings then days you’ve been alive. And the reason we say those exact words your mocking, liability and legal reasons.
excellent close up shots of the bindings! great video!
If I buy a used ski with look pivot bindings can I adjust the binding to the new size of my boot on these bindings. I've always used Marker bindings which give you some flexibility.
Thanks
Very little adjustment on pivots maybe 5 mm ?
this helped me alot because my local skiing place adjusted the stiffiness of the back binding from the two screws showed first and not the back din😐
Well done guys
Hi! Thanks for the video! What do you do if there is a ~4mm space under the boot sole at the heel while the forward pressure indicator looks to be in place? Tigheting forward pressure decreases the space but the elastic travel also disappears which seems not to be a proper set up. Thank you in advance for any help!
Always best to see a shop tech for these sort of things. The sole of your boot could be worn out a bit? Also, if you put downward pressure on the boot does the boot sole make contact?
@@TheSkiMonster Thank you for the quick repsone! Yes, when I put downward pressure on the boot the boot sole makes contact - but if the pressure is removed from the boot then the sole rises again so that the brakes move up and down. The sole is slightly worn but definitely not half a centimeter. Not sure if I can trust the local shop tech now after such a mounting 😅 So the heel of a boot shouldn't be going up and down in a properly set up Pivot binding and needs to fully press the brake, is that correct? I could then adjust the forward pressure so that the sole presses the brake properly I think?
Ski technician in shops now a days are 14 year olds earning minimum wage with no experience which have been trained with 5 min crash course by the shop owner.
Or a j1
This is very true
Not at a good ski shop they aren’t.
Can confirm this is true
I recently bought new boots and their length is significantly shorter so to get the forward pressure right I need to tighten those stems the whole way past the last hashmarks. Is it okay to tighten them that much or should I remount the binding?
If the forward pressure indicator looks good and the boot fits into the binding without getting pinched then you’re good to go. If things are off then better to re-mount.
Hi! Thanks for your take on setting them up. What do you do with a pair where the forward pressure indicator is stuck and does not change much when you regulate the distancing screws on the sides? I tried to 'reset' it but this didn't help much. I read through many pages on this topic on newschoolers forum, but still not 100% sure how to do it correctly. Cheers!
@ngszyba, honestly you should go see a certified binding technician with your skis, bindings, and a boot. They can test the release and make sure things are working correctly. If your forward pressure indicator is stuck, there is likely to be something wrong or broken. Send some pictures to support@theskimonster.com if you are in a pinch
Hi! I have the same issue. The indicator won't move much even when tighten the bindings till barely fit the boot. I have two pairs of Look Pivot and its in both of them. @@TheSkiMonster
Thanks for the video. It has been really educational.
I am facing the same issue as well and noticed that adjusting the pressure to the limit actually causes the arm to dig into my boots at a weird angle, unable to fully snap in
@@lukzet1 Could be a few things. Maybe you just need to re-mount your pivots. They do have a small adjustment range when compared to Attack or Griffon. Sometimes the black plastic part above the forward pressure indicator can slide on top of the white forward pressure indicator. When this happens you can usually re-set by swinging the entire heel turn table from the 6 o'clock position out to about 3 and then back to 6 o'clock.
@@alvinteh4831 How much did your boot sole length change from your old boot to your new boot? If you have to slam the adjustment screws you might need a remount.
If there's no AFD adjustment, does that mean using different boots in the binding makes no difference? And there's no way to make allowance for wear & tear on the toe lug/heel?
@Benzknees, , As always its super important to get your bindings adjusted by a certified shop technician. There have been different versions of Pivot toes over the years, so its important to look at the markings on the AFD plate to know what is compatible. In model year 23/24, these gold Pivot 15's have a logo that says "Gripwalk A" This means the toes are compatible with regular adult DIN soles (aka ISO5355) as well as the more prevalent Gripwalk soles found on many boots. You would want to avoid the older WTR soles and also avoid full rubber touring type soles too. Yes you are correct, with a non-adjustable AFD there is no way to fine tune for toe wear so get new toes/heels for your boots if they look questionable.
I had one binding set properly and it had tons of side to side play compared to the other with identical settings. Whats the reason for this? I ended up increasing the pressure to give it less movement by maybe a half turn on the adjustment arms and now it’s stiffer and matches the other binding
@grrham, are your bindings brand new? Or do we have a fair amount of days on them? When you say set properly does that mean the forward pressure indicator reads correctly? Maybe the jig slipped and one ski was mounted slightly further apart. Maybe the bindings are old and worn out. Maybe the boot has some wear causing the play. If you need more help you could send us some photos to support@theskimonster.com
@@TheSkiMonster brand new bindings and brand new boots. I think you are right about the jig being uneven. I got both matched with the same amount of side to side play and one is noticeably shorter on the adjustment arms
I just bought online skis with already mounted Look Pivot 14 bindings. The posting says it fits a BSL of 305mm to 320mm ... My boots are 318mm ,,, I am driving 80 miles to pick up but before I do I want to confirm with you, the experts, that I should be ok and should not need to have the bindings remounted (I get that a certified professional should do all this, but I just want to know if the numbers sound ok to you that the bindings should be able to be adjusted without having to remount)
With a pivot its hard to say 100% if this is going to work without a remount. If the posting says 305-320, I am guessing they mounted the skis to ~313mm. If so, there is a good chance the 318mm will fit in there without a re-mount.
What do you think my DIN should be? For reference, I am at a 9 right now. Im 6'3, 160 lbs, and an advanced skier. I love doing cliff drops (5-10 ft), goin fast down the slopes. I also like to do big park jumps. I have been ejected a few times at 9, but am scared I'll get hurt if its higher. Input? Thanks.
Your DIN setting is based on height, weight, age, skier ability, and boot sole length in millimeters so we honestly don't have enough info here. You could google a DIN calculator to make a better educated decision. Its always a good idea to get your bindings adjusted and tested by a certified ski shop with a binding testing machine. Ski bindings are designed to keep you on your skis when they should and release you when they should. If you crashed hard and released at a DIN of 9 then the binding is likely doing its job.
It has to be mentioned that the boot has to be locked in for the proper DIN adjustment.
@@cheetah694 boot does not need to be engaged for DIN adjustment.
@@TheSkiMonster The Look Technical Manual suggests otherwise. Quote: Boot should always be engaged in binding system when adjusting indicator settings.
@@cheetah694 you’re right it does say that, but it doesn’t make a difference for DIN. The boot does need to be engaged then released and reengaged to adjust forward pressure.
@@TheSkiMonster The issue is that sometimes the readings differ with and without a boot engaged. This is the case for both of my Pivot 15 toe pieces for example. Not the case for all bindings, I know, but it happens to other people as well. So I guess that's why they have that note in their manual.
A certified shop technician 😅.... some J1 who watched a video, and then took a test with the answers in front of them😅
Luc never ski raced, graduated UVM in 2021 and has mounted more bindings then days you’ve been alive.
And the reason we say those exact words your mocking, liability and legal reasons.