Thankyou Tom for the great videos. I recently purchased a 1997 Voyager 20' Pontoon, Fishing set-up. Have been going thru updating the electrical and fuel systems and your videos have been a gold mine of knowlege for this new pontoon owner. This video answered a lot of my questions on where my motor needs to basically sit. Keep'em coming
Awesome! I'm glad our content has been helpful in your project. It's just a starting point that we go with, and fine tuning is always possible depending how picky someone is about performance. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. We just picked up a 230 Premier Tritoon with a 200hp outboard. Does great except towing a tube or getting up above 3/4 throttle. There what I can only describe as properller slippage as you feel slippage and the rpms can rev up unexpected. I think it's the mounting height and right now it's mounted in the 3rd set of holes from the top of the mounting plate. In your video, you stated the cavitation plat should be even with the bottom of the pontoons on a tritoon. I would say ours is about 6" from the bottom of the tritoon. However, as I read it states to raise the motor for tubing etc. But our scenario is it fills like the boat squats in the rear and even with the trim all the way down, doesn't seem to come back and that's why I thinking it needs to be mounted lower. But not having much luck finding info on mounting a tri toon. Obviously also concerned about getting it too low because of going through unexpected shallow areas. Just curious your thoughts.
Great question, big question I have for you is if your center pontoon is full length or does it stop at the front of the transom making it about 2/3 length?
@@tomspontoons Not sure why my response isn't showing up, but we have a full length. I had found a suzuki test sheet and they had the engine one hole higher. Just spoke manufacturer and they think too high and suggested trying 2nd hold from top. Would be interesting to have some type of guideline to go by.
Hi Tom great info as always ! I'm adding a center pontoon and plan on mounting the motor on it. Can it be mounted straight up and down,or is the 20 or so degree tilt a must ? Also cavitation plate even or slightly below bottom of pontoon ? Any info or recommendations wood be great !! Thanks
Thanks for watching! You need about 15 to 19 degrees of negative trim built into the transom for the motor to tuck under. Cavitation/Ventilation plate even with the bottom of the pontoon is your best bet!! You’ll love having it as a tritoon!
Great explanation. I have a question. I’ve REBUILT my 24’ 1993 StarCraft, extended my pod 15” rear, added 18” to the bow, used .250 wall square crossmembers every 18” except in the rear where I went every 8”!! I have a CMC hydraulic jack plate and I replaced my perfectly good running 1993 mercury90 with a 08 Yamaha VMAX HPDI250! 20” shaft. In your pretty damn well qualified opinion, Should I stick with 4” below ventilation plate, or should I go down to 6” considering I have 6” of travel with my CMC? BTW, rebuilt this entire rig by watching your content step-by-step. Thanks Steve Ridge USMC RET
First of all…Thanks for your service Steve! You went BIG for HP on a pontoon. Is the plan to eventually go to a tritoon setup? Because it would be a blast!! I would go deeper with that size motor because the lift will be significantly more than a typical 40 to 90 hp. Plus the jack plate will help with minor adjustments at higher speeds and with different loads. Glad the channel has been helpful!!!
Great info. I would like to see a video about up-sizing a motor (and controls) on a pontoon. For example, I just bought a used 20 ft pontoon with a 50 hp motor...I think the max rated for this boat. Soon I would like to upgrade to a 150 or 200 hp motor. Can I? What do I need to consider before attempting the up-grade? What is the process to upgrade - including changing out controls? All that good and fun stuff!!!
That's a loaded topic because anytime you go over the max hp rating from the manufacturer you're taking on a ton of liability. If you add a third pontoon to increase the structure holding the motor and the buoyancy then you are moving in the right direction, but even then you need to make sure the structure of the boat can handle the added weight and torque over time. We've got a few videos showing how to install controls and rigging components. Most motors, regardless of the HP are very similar in how they're rigged, but you'd also need hydraulic steering, etc. Not sure we'll do a video super in depth on that only because every motor and boat combo is unique. It would give the concept, but not be directly relatable to most folks at home.
No, Outboard motors should be bolted on with a locking nut or double nuts. No outboard manufacturer, to my knowledge, calls for anything to be added to the nut/bolt combo.
That's one of the questions that's been on my mind. I'm shopping for a toon that will be used in shallow bays at the coast for fishing. Have you dealt with a jet drive conversion on outboard on a toon?
I’m very experienced with outboard jets too as I’ve been around them and run them for 15+ years. It doesn’t work on a pontoon because the jet intake needs a smooth and consistent surface to feed water to it. The pontoon creates too much inconsistency and drag. Maybe it could be done on a tritoon, but it would require insanely high HP to move that heavy of a load. Outboard Jets as a company always recommended a 48” or wider planing surface…which a pontoon definitely does not have!!
I’ve watched a few of your videos and ima fan. With that being said I bought a tritoon that from what I was told is the only “ one” ever made it was used at boat shows that year and demonstrated all options for that toon that year all on one boat. So it’s a tritoon double decker and the middle toon is longer than the other 2 all the toons are u shaped and the engine pod has an opening at the very bottom underneath the toon so water is always in that area almost completely full and sometimes is where the motor is ( I’ve never seen a boat designed like this in my life) . So the water is almost touching the cowl. So the backend sits super low in the water. What is the reasoning for this and ironically this boat has no problem getting up and going and will go 30 plus mph. I would love to share pics of this set up and pick your brain on different things that can be done and why they were done because no one has answers for me??
That style of center pontoon is the most common out there on the market, new and old. Most boat manufacturers do that style to save cost on manufacturing and to keep things simple...it would need a bilge pump if they tried to seal off the very back of the toon. I LOVE the brands that seal up the back and give buoyancy throughout. The engineering is so that the center toon provides a planing surface for the motor once the motor lifts the boat giving great performance. Once that water runs out of the transom area the toon is just as light as a fully chambered toon. Allowing it to fill at idle isn't really a disadvantage in the grand scheme if the goal is for the boat to go fast once up on step. Hope this makes sense and helps understand the why with this setup!
So, to be clear, on a Tritoon the cav plate should line up with the bottom of the center toon, and NOT the water line? Is that correct? Thanks for this video.
100% yes! A tritoon is totally different and closer to a planing style hull (like a fishing boat or runabout). The center toon, if full length with integrated transom, is the planing surface. Therefor the cav plate should line up with the bottom or be slightly above (1/2” is usually fine) the bottom of the center toon. The outer toons are irrelevant for a tritoon. If it’s a sport toon (2/3 length center toon with original motor pod/transom) then the waterline is your guide. DETAILS ABOUT TRITOONS & SPORT TOONS - FAQ & Things You Should Know th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
Tom; I just picked up on your site and like what you have to say about setting the height on a two tube pontoon. Some say that the diameter of the gearcase (i.e. Bigfoot vs normal size) can also have an effect on ventilation/blow-outs. Any thoughts here?
Thanks! I definitely think that engine height and where the outboard sits in relation to the backs of the toons outweigh any factor when talking traditional toon. The farther back it tends to be better flow of water to the gearcase as the water does funny stuff off the toons when the motor is set pushed forward into a cutout.
I have a 22 ft pontoon with a 115. I can only get 18 mph I put a 13p prop on . After watching this video I checked my motor depth and there is 12 in from the waterline to the cavitation plate. Would raising to 4 inches help alot?
I would expect that each hole you raise it on the transom would yield considerable improvement. That boat should be pushing in the mid-20s for speed, maybe even upwards of 30 mph with a light load depending on the layout and seat weight.
I have a 22ft bennington pontoon with a yamaha 115 4 stroke and getting 23-25mph with a solas 13.75x13 prop and I feel like I should be getting more from it still. My motor is in the lowest setting and I get water boiling back into the transom at wot. I could only imagine getting only 18mph
I have a 22 ft sportfish with a 115 and get 30mph alone 27 me and the wife. If I add another couple im at 25. Not a whole lot of weight. This is also on Beaver lake Arkansas pretty busy lake. Just commenting so you know what someone with a similar setup is getting mph wise.
I just inherited a suntracker party hut 30 from my grandparents. Can you recommend a good place to find information on motor maintenance? It's a mercruiser 3.0, with an alpha 1.
I just did a quick Google Search for "Mercruiser 3.0 Maintenance" and it came back with all sorts of great links including some from Mercury's own website! Definitely give that a try if you don't have a Mercury dealer near you!
I’ve been having these problems. Major performance problems. So what’s your end result with this setup? Care to let me know how this 4 inch rule of thumb worked out? I have a Godfrey ap 235 elite with a mercury 115 ct that has the 25 inch shaft setup. I had major wash back on the power head and in the transom. The dealer raised the motor 3 inches. It’s better. Much better. Still sucks the gas and top speed about 23 mph. Ideally the prop is still way deep in the water. They ordered me a 20 inch shaft kit under warranty and replacing it. Once it’s done tho there is no going back. I don’t want to make a wrong decision. Will this work?
The 4" under the water line rule tends to work very well for us on all the boats we rig. Honestly, we've never had a complaint in doing so. I have no idea why a standard pontoon would be rigged with a 25" shaft motor. I've never seen that done on purpose...only when someone got such a good deal on it that they couldn't pass it up, and in that case they'd usually need a jack plate which is not ideal on a pontoon either. I think the switch to a 20" will give you the opportunity to tune the motor height to where you're throwing less water and getting better performance. I'd guess that boat empty should push around 25-28 mph if set up correctly where the ventilation plate is at or just below the water surface when running at higher speeds.
Great video! I recently picked up an 18' pontoon and have noticed some ventilation/cavitation(feels like neutral) if people move atound on the deck of the boat at certain speeds. It had a Yamaha 25hp outboard and goes a blistering 13-14mph. Does that seem accurate? Also at full speed, om around 5-5200rpm and notce the motor is getting a ton of water spray. Is my motor mounted too low?
That speed sounds right about spot on. Pontoon boats are just touchy with ventilation and such. I'd normally say to lower it if having those issues, but there are cases where the toons and transom just don't play well together and water flow creates issues or at least makes it more prone to have issues like you're having when people move around.
@tomspontoons thanks for the quick response! Does that seem accurate for RPM? I feel like it should be a touch higher, maybe 5500-6k? Also at full speed the motor seems submerged with water all around the engine cover. I can't see the water pump stream it's so bad lol.
@@mrtosh I believe that motor will run out to near 6000 RPM. You won't usually see a change in speed from a 25 hp on a pontoon boat from about 3/4 throttle to full speed. The hull is too big and heavy as a non-displacement hull (non-planing style) for that motor to move enough water to continue to gain speed. So at a certain point you'll start to get slippage of the prop where it'll sound funny, gurgle, maybe even ventilate. It's sort of like trying to push a car up a hill in mud...at some point the hill is too steep and your shoes will start to slip
My Tracker fishing barge 21 has really tight bad steering. I have had a whole new steering box and line installed with no change. Have also made sure it is greased and that I can move it easily by hand when the steering linkage is disconnected. My mercury bigfoot 60 is mounted several inches below your suggested point. Could this be the problem with my stuff steering?.. Thanks,
Is the steering only stiff when under power, like cruising speeds at or higher than half throttle? If it's always stiff, even with the motor tilted down and at idle it may be the way the cable is routed either through the deck or somewhere under the deck to the motor. No bend in the cable should be tighter than a 8"-12" radius. New or old cable, it won't like a tight bend in the routing as the cable won't slide smoothly inside of the sheathing. If it's at higher speed then YES, it could have a ton to do with your mounting height as you'd be fighting the drag of the mid-section of the motor....a part that's never meant to be dragging through the water (think of the engine height on a fishing boat as only the ventilation plate and below has water hitting it, hence the cutting shape of it). Getting the motor height right would also allow you to trim the motor up to optimal levels which has additional benefits for making steering easier. I should add, it's common for one direction to steer a little harder than the other when under way, which can be adjusted usually with the trim tab that's mounted on the under side of the ventilation plate.
i have a 14x6 landau i had a yamaha (40hp 4 stroke) installed i am having a big problem with it cavitating the cavitation plate is about 4 inches below the center i cannot run wide open if i turn either way i have blowout it have a 12 1/4 x9 i tried a 4 blade merc nemesis10.6by 12 it helped a little but the merc prop had lots of end play & side play i removed it was afraid it would cause damage to my shaft ran it about 30 minutes the boat dealer ship who installed the engine lowered the motor still the same please offer any advice i am at my wits end the motor is a 2019 it has less than 3 hours 0n it purchased new dealer of NO HELP AFTER sale also it cant be trimed but very little makes it worse thank you
Sorry for such a bummer after putting a new motor on, and getting no help after the sale. I would definitely go to a 4 blade prop, but you may need a different hub kit or something if it’s giving that sort of loose fit. The next big thing I would try is adding a whale tale or hydro-foil to the outboard. It bolts onto the cavitation plate and works like magic in some cases. No guarantee, but I would definitely try it, especially in addition to the four blade prop.
If mounting it on the transom then yes, I would follow the same guidelines. A kicker won't have issues with cavitating like a bigger hp motor simply because of the slower speeds. If you mount the kicker on a bracket connected to the back of one of the pontoons then you can really mount it wherever you want height wise as long as the prop is plenty deep, even if the prop doesn't extend below the bottom of the pontoon log. Again, the slow speeds of trolling won't lead to the same issues as a motor that can push the boat faster where problems arise.
Dumb question, why isn't it a perfect science on a 2 toon? Is that because its hard to measure or because the waterline moves too much compared to a tri or planning hull?
Not a dumb question at all. Truth is that every pontoon performs differently depending on size of toons, placement of transom related to pontoons, and even the load on the boat and where the weight is positioned. Best bet is to get the setup that meets your needs the majority of the time. A planing hull or tritoon ALWAYS has the same flow of water pretty much no matter how slow, fast, or loaded down the boat gets.
I have an old 28ft landau pontoon and my question is this. I don't go for speed, I go for fuel economy at idle because I do a lot of trolling. My question is what's better higher or lower mounting for the best fuel economy? Thanks to anyone in advance.
on the tritoon i have a half toon that is polyethelyne and the loog only goes about half way back. what do i place motor at from there? the outside logs? or somewhere else?
When adding in the sport-toon or short middle toon it becomes a bit of a guessing game unfortunately. I would run it as is and see if you're getting a lot of spray off the motor, if it's getting air or bubbles to the prop and cavitating/ventilating, or if you're happy with how it rides and runs. From there you can make adjustments up and down to fine tune. Usually you'd want to take it up to as high as it'll go without blowing out. Here's a video that explains a little bit more in detail of your situation: th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
@@tomspontoons i get a high rev when i trim up and then my rpm spike and feels like i am "plowing throught wave vs on top of them" . i am only getting about 5300 rpm
I had a few conversations with a gentleman who did exactly that on an old Harris. Welded the I/O out drive hole shut, modified to make an outboard transom, and he was good to go! Email me, I might have some photos of his. TomsPontoons@gmail.com
Thankyou Tom for the great videos. I recently purchased a 1997 Voyager 20' Pontoon, Fishing set-up. Have been going thru updating the electrical and fuel systems and your videos have been a gold mine of knowlege for this new pontoon owner. This video answered a lot of my questions on where my motor needs to basically sit. Keep'em coming
Awesome! I'm glad our content has been helpful in your project. It's just a starting point that we go with, and fine tuning is always possible depending how picky someone is about performance. Thanks for watching!
Is my motor to low
Great Video Tom. Thanks.
Thanks!! And thank you for watching
Thanks for the video. We just picked up a 230 Premier Tritoon with a 200hp outboard. Does great except towing a tube or getting up above 3/4 throttle. There what I can only describe as properller slippage as you feel slippage and the rpms can rev up unexpected. I think it's the mounting height and right now it's mounted in the 3rd set of holes from the top of the mounting plate. In your video, you stated the cavitation plat should be even with the bottom of the pontoons on a tritoon. I would say ours is about 6" from the bottom of the tritoon. However, as I read it states to raise the motor for tubing etc. But our scenario is it fills like the boat squats in the rear and even with the trim all the way down, doesn't seem to come back and that's why I thinking it needs to be mounted lower. But not having much luck finding info on mounting a tri toon. Obviously also concerned about getting it too low because of going through unexpected shallow areas. Just curious your thoughts.
Great question, big question I have for you is if your center pontoon is full length or does it stop at the front of the transom making it about 2/3 length?
@@tomspontoons Not sure why my response isn't showing up, but we have a full length. I had found a suzuki test sheet and they had the engine one hole higher. Just spoke manufacturer and they think too high and suggested trying 2nd hold from top. Would be interesting to have some type of guideline to go by.
@@FrostyFilms704 Give this video a watch...I explain the tritoon positioning better for motor height here.
th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
Hi Tom great info as always ! I'm adding a center pontoon and plan on mounting the motor on it. Can it be mounted straight up and down,or is the 20 or so degree tilt a must ? Also cavitation plate even or slightly below bottom of pontoon ? Any info or recommendations wood be great !! Thanks
Thanks for watching! You need about 15 to 19 degrees of negative trim built into the transom for the motor to tuck under. Cavitation/Ventilation plate even with the bottom of the pontoon is your best bet!! You’ll love having it as a tritoon!
@@tomspontoons awsome thanks !!
Great explanation. I have a question.
I’ve REBUILT my 24’ 1993 StarCraft, extended my pod 15” rear, added 18” to the bow, used .250 wall square crossmembers every 18” except in the rear where I went every 8”!!
I have a CMC hydraulic jack plate and I replaced my perfectly good running 1993 mercury90 with a 08 Yamaha VMAX HPDI250! 20” shaft.
In your pretty damn well qualified opinion, Should I stick with 4” below ventilation plate, or should I go down to 6” considering I have 6” of travel with my CMC?
BTW, rebuilt this entire rig by watching your content step-by-step.
Thanks
Steve Ridge
USMC RET
First of all…Thanks for your service Steve!
You went BIG for HP on a pontoon. Is the plan to eventually go to a tritoon setup? Because it would be a blast!!
I would go deeper with that size motor because the lift will be significantly more than a typical 40 to 90 hp. Plus the jack plate will help with minor adjustments at higher speeds and with different loads. Glad the channel has been helpful!!!
Great info. I would like to see a video about up-sizing a motor (and controls) on a pontoon. For example, I just bought a used 20 ft pontoon with a 50 hp motor...I think the max rated for this boat. Soon I would like to upgrade to a 150 or 200 hp motor. Can I? What do I need to consider before attempting the up-grade? What is the process to upgrade - including changing out controls? All that good and fun stuff!!!
That's a loaded topic because anytime you go over the max hp rating from the manufacturer you're taking on a ton of liability. If you add a third pontoon to increase the structure holding the motor and the buoyancy then you are moving in the right direction, but even then you need to make sure the structure of the boat can handle the added weight and torque over time. We've got a few videos showing how to install controls and rigging components. Most motors, regardless of the HP are very similar in how they're rigged, but you'd also need hydraulic steering, etc. Not sure we'll do a video super in depth on that only because every motor and boat combo is unique. It would give the concept, but not be directly relatable to most folks at home.
Do you put the marine glue on your bolts when you attach the Outboard.
No, Outboard motors should be bolted on with a locking nut or double nuts. No outboard manufacturer, to my knowledge, calls for anything to be added to the nut/bolt combo.
That's one of the questions that's been on my mind. I'm shopping for a toon that will be used in shallow bays at the coast for fishing. Have you dealt with a jet drive conversion on outboard on a toon?
I’m very experienced with outboard jets too as I’ve been around them and run them for 15+ years. It doesn’t work on a pontoon because the jet intake needs a smooth and consistent surface to feed water to it. The pontoon creates too much inconsistency and drag. Maybe it could be done on a tritoon, but it would require insanely high HP to move that heavy of a load. Outboard Jets as a company always recommended a 48” or wider planing surface…which a pontoon definitely does not have!!
I’ve watched a few of your videos and ima fan. With that being said I bought a tritoon that from what I was told is the only “ one” ever made it was used at boat shows that year and demonstrated all options for that toon that year all on one boat. So it’s a tritoon double decker and the middle toon is longer than the other 2 all the toons are u shaped and the engine pod has an opening at the very bottom underneath the toon so water is always in that area almost completely full and sometimes is where the motor is ( I’ve never seen a boat designed like this in my life) . So the water is almost touching the cowl. So the backend sits super low in the water. What is the reasoning for this and ironically this boat has no problem getting up and going and will go 30 plus mph. I would love to share pics of this set up and pick your brain on different things that can be done and why they were done because no one has answers for me??
That style of center pontoon is the most common out there on the market, new and old. Most boat manufacturers do that style to save cost on manufacturing and to keep things simple...it would need a bilge pump if they tried to seal off the very back of the toon. I LOVE the brands that seal up the back and give buoyancy throughout. The engineering is so that the center toon provides a planing surface for the motor once the motor lifts the boat giving great performance. Once that water runs out of the transom area the toon is just as light as a fully chambered toon. Allowing it to fill at idle isn't really a disadvantage in the grand scheme if the goal is for the boat to go fast once up on step. Hope this makes sense and helps understand the why with this setup!
So, to be clear, on a Tritoon the cav plate should line up with the bottom of the center toon, and NOT the water line? Is that correct? Thanks for this video.
100% yes! A tritoon is totally different and closer to a planing style hull (like a fishing boat or runabout). The center toon, if full length with integrated transom, is the planing surface. Therefor the cav plate should line up with the bottom or be slightly above (1/2” is usually fine) the bottom of the center toon. The outer toons are irrelevant for a tritoon. If it’s a sport toon (2/3 length center toon with original motor pod/transom) then the waterline is your guide.
DETAILS ABOUT TRITOONS & SPORT TOONS - FAQ & Things You Should Know
th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
Tom; I just picked up on your site and like what you have to say about setting the height on a two tube pontoon. Some say that the diameter of the gearcase (i.e. Bigfoot vs normal size) can also have an effect on ventilation/blow-outs. Any thoughts here?
Thanks! I definitely think that engine height and where the outboard sits in relation to the backs of the toons outweigh any factor when talking traditional toon. The farther back it tends to be better flow of water to the gearcase as the water does funny stuff off the toons when the motor is set pushed forward into a cutout.
I have a 22 ft pontoon with a 115. I can only get 18 mph I put a 13p prop on . After watching this video I checked my motor depth and there is 12 in from the waterline to the cavitation plate. Would raising to 4 inches help alot?
I would expect that each hole you raise it on the transom would yield considerable improvement. That boat should be pushing in the mid-20s for speed, maybe even upwards of 30 mph with a light load depending on the layout and seat weight.
I have a 22ft bennington pontoon with a yamaha 115 4 stroke and getting 23-25mph with a solas 13.75x13 prop and I feel like I should be getting more from it still. My motor is in the lowest setting and I get water boiling back into the transom at wot. I could only imagine getting only 18mph
I have a 22 ft sportfish with a 115 and get 30mph alone 27 me and the wife. If I add another couple im at 25. Not a whole lot of weight. This is also on Beaver lake Arkansas pretty busy lake. Just commenting so you know what someone with a similar setup is getting mph wise.
@@kendalallen7850that’s definitely scooting along nicely! Thanks for sharing your data.
I just inherited a suntracker party hut 30 from my grandparents. Can you recommend a good place to find information on motor maintenance? It's a mercruiser 3.0, with an alpha 1.
I just did a quick Google Search for "Mercruiser 3.0 Maintenance" and it came back with all sorts of great links including some from Mercury's own website! Definitely give that a try if you don't have a Mercury dealer near you!
I’ve been having these problems. Major performance problems. So what’s your end result with this setup? Care to let me know how this 4 inch rule of thumb worked out? I have a Godfrey ap 235 elite with a mercury 115 ct that has the 25 inch shaft setup. I had major wash back on the power head and in the transom. The dealer raised the motor 3 inches. It’s better. Much better. Still sucks the gas and top speed about 23 mph. Ideally the prop is still way deep in the water. They ordered me a 20 inch shaft kit under warranty and replacing it. Once it’s done tho there is no going back. I don’t want to make a wrong decision. Will this work?
The 4" under the water line rule tends to work very well for us on all the boats we rig. Honestly, we've never had a complaint in doing so. I have no idea why a standard pontoon would be rigged with a 25" shaft motor. I've never seen that done on purpose...only when someone got such a good deal on it that they couldn't pass it up, and in that case they'd usually need a jack plate which is not ideal on a pontoon either. I think the switch to a 20" will give you the opportunity to tune the motor height to where you're throwing less water and getting better performance. I'd guess that boat empty should push around 25-28 mph if set up correctly where the ventilation plate is at or just below the water surface when running at higher speeds.
@@tomspontoons thanks Tom for your input. Much appreciated.
Always happy to help!
I'm going through the same dilemma with my 20'lowe let us know how it turns out plz...thx
This height method has worked great as a starting point and it tends to give good all around performance!
Great video! I recently picked up an 18' pontoon and have noticed some ventilation/cavitation(feels like neutral) if people move atound on the deck of the boat at certain speeds. It had a Yamaha 25hp outboard and goes a blistering 13-14mph. Does that seem accurate? Also at full speed, om around 5-5200rpm and notce the motor is getting a ton of water spray. Is my motor mounted too low?
That speed sounds right about spot on. Pontoon boats are just touchy with ventilation and such. I'd normally say to lower it if having those issues, but there are cases where the toons and transom just don't play well together and water flow creates issues or at least makes it more prone to have issues like you're having when people move around.
@tomspontoons thanks for the quick response! Does that seem accurate for RPM? I feel like it should be a touch higher, maybe 5500-6k? Also at full speed the motor seems submerged with water all around the engine cover. I can't see the water pump stream it's so bad lol.
@@mrtosh I believe that motor will run out to near 6000 RPM. You won't usually see a change in speed from a 25 hp on a pontoon boat from about 3/4 throttle to full speed. The hull is too big and heavy as a non-displacement hull (non-planing style) for that motor to move enough water to continue to gain speed. So at a certain point you'll start to get slippage of the prop where it'll sound funny, gurgle, maybe even ventilate. It's sort of like trying to push a car up a hill in mud...at some point the hill is too steep and your shoes will start to slip
My Tracker fishing barge 21 has really tight bad steering. I have had a whole new steering box and line installed with no change. Have also made sure it is greased and that I can move it easily by hand when the steering linkage is disconnected. My mercury bigfoot 60 is mounted several inches below your suggested point. Could this be the problem with my stuff steering?..
Thanks,
Is the steering only stiff when under power, like cruising speeds at or higher than half throttle?
If it's always stiff, even with the motor tilted down and at idle it may be the way the cable is routed either through the deck or somewhere under the deck to the motor. No bend in the cable should be tighter than a 8"-12" radius. New or old cable, it won't like a tight bend in the routing as the cable won't slide smoothly inside of the sheathing.
If it's at higher speed then YES, it could have a ton to do with your mounting height as you'd be fighting the drag of the mid-section of the motor....a part that's never meant to be dragging through the water (think of the engine height on a fishing boat as only the ventilation plate and below has water hitting it, hence the cutting shape of it). Getting the motor height right would also allow you to trim the motor up to optimal levels which has additional benefits for making steering easier.
I should add, it's common for one direction to steer a little harder than the other when under way, which can be adjusted usually with the trim tab that's mounted on the under side of the ventilation plate.
@@tomspontoons thank you for your time sir!
This helped a lot!
@@billyhenley6968 happy to help!
i have a 14x6 landau i had a yamaha (40hp 4 stroke) installed i am having a big problem with it cavitating the cavitation plate is about 4 inches below the center i cannot run wide open if i turn either way i have blowout it have a 12 1/4 x9 i tried a 4 blade merc nemesis10.6by 12 it helped a little but the merc prop had lots of end play & side play i removed it was afraid it would cause damage to my shaft ran it about 30 minutes the boat dealer ship who installed the engine lowered the motor still the same please offer any advice i am at my wits end the motor is a 2019 it has less than 3 hours 0n it purchased new dealer of NO HELP AFTER sale also it cant be trimed but very little makes it worse thank you
Sorry for such a bummer after putting a new motor on, and getting no help after the sale. I would definitely go to a 4 blade prop, but you may need a different hub kit or something if it’s giving that sort of loose fit.
The next big thing I would try is adding a whale tale or hydro-foil to the outboard. It bolts onto the cavitation plate and works like magic in some cases. No guarantee, but I would definitely try it, especially in addition to the four blade prop.
Is that the same for a small gas kicker motor on the back for trolling?
If mounting it on the transom then yes, I would follow the same guidelines. A kicker won't have issues with cavitating like a bigger hp motor simply because of the slower speeds. If you mount the kicker on a bracket connected to the back of one of the pontoons then you can really mount it wherever you want height wise as long as the prop is plenty deep, even if the prop doesn't extend below the bottom of the pontoon log. Again, the slow speeds of trolling won't lead to the same issues as a motor that can push the boat faster where problems arise.
Dumb question, why isn't it a perfect science on a 2 toon? Is that because its hard to measure or because the waterline moves too much compared to a tri or planning hull?
Not a dumb question at all. Truth is that every pontoon performs differently depending on size of toons, placement of transom related to pontoons, and even the load on the boat and where the weight is positioned. Best bet is to get the setup that meets your needs the majority of the time. A planing hull or tritoon ALWAYS has the same flow of water pretty much no matter how slow, fast, or loaded down the boat gets.
I have an old 28ft landau pontoon and my question is this. I don't go for speed, I go for fuel economy at idle because I do a lot of trolling. My question is what's better higher or lower mounting for the best fuel economy? Thanks to anyone in advance.
on the tritoon i have a half toon that is polyethelyne and the loog only goes about half way back. what do i place motor at from there? the outside logs? or somewhere else?
When adding in the sport-toon or short middle toon it becomes a bit of a guessing game unfortunately. I would run it as is and see if you're getting a lot of spray off the motor, if it's getting air or bubbles to the prop and cavitating/ventilating, or if you're happy with how it rides and runs. From there you can make adjustments up and down to fine tune. Usually you'd want to take it up to as high as it'll go without blowing out.
Here's a video that explains a little bit more in detail of your situation:
th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
@@tomspontoons thank you sir!
@@aaronloerch8645 happy to help!
@@tomspontoons i get a high rev when i trim up and then my rpm spike and feels like i am "plowing throught wave vs on top of them"
. i am only getting about 5300 rpm
@@aaronloerch8645 two or four stroke?
How hard to switch from a inboard to outboard also got a tritoon
I had a few conversations with a gentleman who did exactly that on an old Harris. Welded the I/O out drive hole shut, modified to make an outboard transom, and he was good to go! Email me, I might have some photos of his.
TomsPontoons@gmail.com
At least an inch or two maybe four or ten! 😂😂😂
Glad you caught that!!! Maybe a 600hp would lift it 10”?!?
Exact same thing except different ✅✅
Hang it so the spindle is right at the water line. Prop 1/2 in and 1/2 out for MAX cavitation. 😎
Haha! Started to read this comment thinking “holy heck he’s lost his mind”! Then saw the sarcasm and laughed hard!! Thanks for that!