A quick way to make the brush hog work. You can use a chain temporarily as a top link. i know of some guys that use a chain as a permanent top link for the brush hog. Raise the brush hog. Put a board under it. Let it down then connect the top link. Or you could put a board under the back edge of the pallet for the brush hog to make it match the level of the tractor. Have a great day.
I did add the John Deere I-match hitch to my 1025R, so easy to switch implements, however some will fit implements are not I-match or industry standard.
Almost got a quick hitch for mine but since my implements are from different eras and brands I went with the Pat’s easy change system and have been 100% satisfied. Very easy for my 70 year old body to connect my stuff up by myself lol. If anything went wrong with these I would buy again but they are very well made so I doubt I’ll ever need to. I took them off my ford tractor before I sold it so I could put them on the 2038R
Just put a set on my 1023E. All my implements are different too. Much easier on my 69 year old body then getting up and down 10 times and using a pry bar to force each lift arm own.
I got a flat mounting panel that has a 3 point mount (replace bucket) on it and I put a quick hitch on it to move everything around using the front of the tractor(hopefully that makes sense) it cost me a little bit of $ but its well worth the headache saved
When you use a Quick-Hitch, all your attachments needs to have bushings on the pins so they don't waggle around. The only time you use the pins alone is when you use the 3 points hitch directly on the attachment itself.
I have them on my tiller as that vibrates a heck of a lot more. I do have another set that I can easily add and remove to the rest of my attachments, but did put them on for this job. Thanks, Tom
If you haven’t tested the length of the PTO shafts the only caution would be that they are cut to short. The quick hitch adds a several inches to the distance between the power take off shaft and the implements. Usually your rotary tiller is short anyway. I think you need at least 1/2 the shaft length in the portion of the over lapping part of the shaft for it to have enough strength to be safe. I saw one once that worked fine before the quick hitch but only had about 4 inches of over lap. If that is the case then you will need a longer shaft or a shaft stretcher. It will probably be stored right beside your board stretcher.
Enjoyed your video, like your storage system too. I bought a top and tilt kit (hydraulic top and side cylinders) when I ordered the tractor because I had a long driveway to work on. That job is done but now I realize how useful the top and tilt is for hooking up implements using the quick hitch on uneven ground, something I never considered initially. Tractors are fun and truly a learning experience. Keep up with the videos!
Thanks for for the review and pointing out the Good Bad and the Ugly. I have kind of heard the same issues with the Harbor Freight. Also when you have different brands of emblements as I do not everything is compatible. I also and considering the Pats system for that reason.
I have two tractors and when I purchased my first one which is a 790 new I also purchased a quick hitch attachment and loved it. When I purchased my second tractor I later decided to buy a quick hitch for it and ordered it from either Harbor Freight or another company and had problems with it, but it too works with most of my implements. I have a Box Blade which have to be adjusted to connect it to my tractor and I also have a plow which I have not used yet which seem to be a problem attaching it to either tractor because o the way it was built and I can't grow a garden now due to the local deer which is a problem and I don't want to be killing them. Everything else I have works just fine with either tractor.
Great versatility on that equipment shed. One thought to add would be to suspend the post hole digger from the header with a chain or even a strap to reduce the man handling required to mount it (I like its rear legs, mine doesn’t have them and can be a bear to mount). Keep up the great videos.
I have the iMatch for my 3025, and hooking up my attachments is a breeze. I fought with 3 pt arms for years, and I figured this thing was a solution Ioolimg for a problem til I saw it operate. I wish my PHD was iMatch compatible. As I buy new attachmentz, I will be sure they are compatible.
what prompted you to buy a different top hook than the one supplied by Harbor Freight . I have a JD iMatch so not sure if I should get the same top bracket you purchased aftermarket. Greetings!!
The top hook supplied would not work with my first tiller, and was too thick for my carryall. I know Ken also has a green hook for the I-match so it probably has some compatibility issues with some after market implements.
Sometimes I'm not a fan of that quick hitch. I usually don't open the levers when hooking things up, the implements are usually heavy enough that they slide into the bottom hooks themselves and you don't have to worry about closing them then.
That other hook doesn't work with the brush hog . It's too narrow. I have the same problem. Ordered the after market one. You can see the after market on is about a half inch off
Curious if Ken contacted you about the quality issue of his bolt on hook? By the way, thank you for keeping things real. When things do not go perfect, you do not edit that part out. I like that because I learn from seeing how you think the issue through then come up with a solution. Well done. EDIT - I sent a message to Ken Deckelman, owner of Ken’s bolt on hooks about your issue with the hook you purchased from him. I never met him in person, but from what I’ve seen, he’s a honest guy. My guess is he will want to know about the hook issue so he can make adjustments. Maybe you’ll get a free hat or something.
I love listening to yiu talk about these things with rhe parts... Great voice!
Viewed, Liked, Shared, Subscribed... Love the commentary!
Good job on the explanations and awesome organizational skills
A quick way to make the brush hog work. You can use a chain temporarily as a top link. i know of some guys that use a chain as a permanent top link for the brush hog. Raise the brush hog. Put a board under it. Let it down then connect the top link. Or you could put a board under the back edge of the pallet for the brush hog to make it match the level of the tractor. Have a great day.
use a pats quick hitch it will fit anything I like it
I did add the John Deere I-match hitch to my 1025R, so easy to switch implements, however some will fit implements are not I-match or industry standard.
Almost got a quick hitch for mine but since my implements are from different eras and brands I went with the Pat’s easy change system and have been 100% satisfied. Very easy for my 70 year old body to connect my stuff up by myself lol. If anything went wrong with these I would buy again but they are very well made so I doubt I’ll ever need to. I took them off my ford tractor before I sold it so I could put them on the 2038R
Just put a set on my 1023E. All my implements are different too. Much easier on my 69 year old body then getting up and down 10 times and using a pry bar to force each lift arm own.
I got a flat mounting panel that has a 3 point mount (replace bucket) on it and I put a quick hitch on it to move everything around using the front of the tractor(hopefully that makes sense) it cost me a little bit of $ but its well worth the headache saved
Definitely a lot easier to move stuff with the front.
When you use a Quick-Hitch, all your attachments needs to have bushings on the pins so they don't waggle around. The only time you use the pins alone is when you use the 3 points hitch directly on the attachment itself.
I have them on my tiller as that vibrates a heck of a lot more. I do have another set that I can easily add and remove to the rest of my attachments, but did put them on for this job. Thanks, Tom
If you haven’t tested the length of the PTO shafts the only caution would be that they are cut to short. The quick hitch adds a several inches to the distance between the power take off shaft and the implements. Usually your rotary tiller is short anyway. I think you need at least 1/2 the shaft length in the portion of the over lapping part of the shaft for it to have enough strength to be safe. I saw one once that worked fine before the quick hitch but only had about 4 inches of over lap. If that is the case then you will need a longer shaft or a shaft stretcher. It will probably be stored right beside your board stretcher.
LOL
Enjoyed your video, like your storage system too. I bought a top and tilt kit (hydraulic top and side cylinders) when I ordered the tractor because I had a long driveway to work on. That job is done but now I realize how useful the top and tilt is for hooking up implements using the quick hitch on uneven ground, something I never considered initially. Tractors are fun and truly a learning experience. Keep up with the videos!
Thanks for for the review and pointing out the Good Bad and the Ugly. I have kind of heard the same issues with the Harbor Freight. Also when you have different brands of emblements as I do not everything is compatible. I also and considering the Pats system for that reason.
I have two tractors and when I purchased my first one which is a 790 new I also purchased a quick hitch attachment and loved it. When I purchased my second tractor I later decided to buy a quick hitch for it and ordered it from either Harbor Freight or another company and had problems with it, but it too works with most of my implements. I have a Box Blade which have to be adjusted to connect it to my tractor and I also have a plow which I have not used yet which seem to be a problem attaching it to either tractor because o the way it was built and I can't grow a garden now due to the local deer which is a problem and I don't want to be killing them. Everything else I have works just fine with either tractor.
Great versatility on that equipment shed. One thought to add would be to suspend the post hole digger from the header with a chain or even a strap to reduce the man handling required to mount it (I like its rear legs, mine doesn’t have them and can be a bear to mount). Keep up the great videos.
Always looking to save my back, suspending it would also keep it drier. Thanks, Tom
Hydraulic top link makes it much easier
Great video! You show excellent points with the quick hitch. Nice job!
I have the iMatch for my 3025, and hooking up my attachments is a breeze. I fought with 3 pt arms for years, and I figured this thing was a solution Ioolimg for a problem til I saw it operate. I wish my PHD was iMatch compatible. As I buy new attachmentz, I will be sure they are compatible.
You need bushings for the lower pins on all your attachments for the quick hitch to work properly.
Ken Litherland I’ll eventually migrate them all, but the tiller shimmies the most.
Just found your channel. I’ve got equipment videos on mine if you’re interested. I subbed. Good stuff
I ran into the same issue mating my HF Quick-Hitch to my Carry-All. I had to grind away wood for all three hooks.
what prompted you to buy a different top hook than the one supplied by Harbor Freight . I have a JD iMatch so not sure if I should get the same top bracket you purchased aftermarket. Greetings!!
The top hook supplied would not work with my first tiller, and was too thick for my carryall. I know Ken also has a green hook for the I-match so it probably has some compatibility issues with some after market implements.
using ken's green hook has made it easier to hook up to different implements on my jd 1025
Sometimes I'm not a fan of that quick hitch. I usually don't open the levers when hooking things up, the implements are usually heavy enough that they slide into the bottom hooks themselves and you don't have to worry about closing them then.
Thanks for the review on HF hitch. Looks like you're getting nice collection of "toys".
I’ll stay with my pats quick hitch.
I've checked those out too. Looks like a good method also.
That other hook doesn't work with the brush hog . It's too narrow. I have the same problem. Ordered the after market one. You can see the after market on is about a half inch off
I just got a HFQH for $79. Now we'll see if I can make it work
What kind of snow plow is that?
jasonbloxham Frontiers 60”. www.deere.com/en/attachments-accessories-and-implements/utility-tractors-attachments-accessories/snow-removal-equipment/af10f-front-blades/
Did you have any issues with PTO shaft length?
Brian Tuttle None so far, but I’ve yet to have to trim any of the.
Thanks for the reply, I got a 1025R in February and didn't get the quick and been thinking about getting one. Love your vids, keep up the good work.
Those hitches can sure be a backsaver!
I got to give the 100th like on this video 👍 Whoot-whoot!
Curious if Ken contacted you about the quality issue of his bolt on hook?
By the way, thank you for keeping things real. When things do not go perfect, you do not edit that part out. I like that because I learn from seeing how you think the issue through then come up with a solution. Well done.
EDIT - I sent a message to Ken Deckelman, owner of Ken’s bolt on hooks about your issue with the hook you purchased from him. I never met him in person, but from what I’ve seen, he’s a honest guy. My guess is he will want to know about the hook issue so he can make adjustments. Maybe you’ll get a free hat or something.
Thanks Doug! Reaming out the holes were not that big of deal. If I get a hat, I'll let you know:)