Great vid and very useful for us beginners, I recently got some power gum as I was a little worried about using crimps and damaging the line, I'll try and build some 2 hook flappers over the weekend, thanks again for another quality vid , be lucky 🎣👍
Hi Mate, I have used the breakaway crimp with success, with the tube stops, I find neoprene gives better results than silicon. I use your long range rig and use a sliding stop for the hook length. This allows the snood to be changed for different conditions. Also it will slide down under load and act like a pulley rig.
The tube stops never work that well if the silicone is too thick and i think thats why the neoprene is a bit better. I have a couple of the long range rigs with a sliding stop too👍👍. Its a good improvement and makes fighting a fish a bit easier
Useful information. The Breakaway adjustable crimps are excellent. Always been wary of using ordinary crimps damaging the line, so never used them. Do you think there is any advantage in 'rig glue' over ordinary Superglue? As is often the case in Fishing, anything branded for fishing is often 4x the price!
I hate crimps too and only ever use them on really heavy mono. Im not sure of the difference between the two glue but i do know that most superglues are not waterproof they are only resistant 👍
The silicon tube is the best and forget about the rest. What your explanation missing is for the first 3, 1 knot maybe not strong enough, if not strong enough then add another one, it would make a big different. There are 3 main reasons why the first 3 are preferable: a) They are cheap especially with the silicon tube, 2) Imagine one of your hook line is damaged and you just want to replace the hook line only, it would be very easy as the stopper can move around so you do not have to try to get the replacement hook line to the same exact size to the damaged one, c) This applies to the silicon tube only, you can remove the tube from the rig and reuse for something else or you can alter the rig and reuse the tube, it is not wasted and is better for environment and cheap.
This really isn't entirely correct because all of the different stops, both adjustable and fixed, will out perform the others when used in the right circumstances. The silicone tube is a really light stop used as worm stops or a float stop but power gum is better and more suited for that. The first 3 are all adjustable and thats why they are cheaper than a fixed stop, because a fixed stop needs to be stronger and more robust. All of these stops, if applied correctly, wont damage your line. And you cannot use the first 3 on large rigs for big fish, they wont work. All these stops are as good as each other in the right circumstances 👍
@@gsp That is why I said you add 2 stops rather 1 to keep tight and strong. You need stop knots mostly for clip down, distance casting, it has nothing to do with small or big fish, that is to do with the line strength.
@@mvatoiband not at all, you need crimps to hold hook snoods away from leads on shark rigs, you need stop knots to adjust floats as you can attch them afterwards, you need fixed stoppers when building clipped down rigs. You are limiting the performance of your setup by only using 1 stop
@@gsp the problem here you don't read my comment, you just like to prove your way to nowhere, YOU CAN USE silicon tube for clipped down rig, I use for all my rigs and I cast at least 100m each time and never have a problem. The point I am trying to open your eyes is if one is if one knot is not strong enough then ADD 2 or 3 stops, try it yourself then you will see, you need hell of a force to push 2 knots at the same time. There is nothing wrong of using crimps but they are old days and not flexible, with the tube it gives you loads of flexibilities. I caught sharks at Hayling Island and you need a proper shark rig, just few crimps is not enough. The trace line is way over 100lb or steel line, steel line is better. What we are talking here is normal fishing like 10-20lb smoot hound or 10-15lb ray at best.
I do read your comments and your telling me that the silcone is the best out of all of the stops and that you can use it for everything but my point is proven with your last comment. How is it better to have to use 3 pieces of knotted silcone (which is the most synthetic material out of all used, so bad for the environment) instead of a figure of eight knot which uses no extra material, or a crimp which will hold strong and then rust away if lost or power gum which is derived from natural gum. Im just try to point out that all of the mentioned stops have pros and cons and they will all stand out against others in certain scenarios. When wet silicone slides so underwater, on a paternoster rig it will move under slight pressure. No of these are right and none of these are wrong. You dont need a proper shark rig for smooth hound and a light titanium hook length with cirle hook for tope (not steel) but when i target 200lb+ stingrays or tiger sharks silicone wont cut it. Thats why the video shows all the different types of stops. My way shows all the different stops available to use, so my way is informing people what can be used. Your way is telling me 1 is best and the rest are wrong
I don’t understand how you prefer trying a knot in your rig body over crimping. Don’t use crimping tools/pliers for rig stops as they tighten the crimp way too much, they’re used when attaching hooks to very heavy mono or wire. Use some precision round nose pliers for rig stops
Always prefer a figure of 8 knot as its a pretty consistent 80% strength. Crimps used even with crimping tools vary in strength comprimisation because no 2 monos are the same diameter. I'll use crimps on mono over 100lb but not below. They would be my last choice but thats just me.
The reason you should use round nose pliers is so you can actually crimp it to suit the rig body diameter, not just crimp it to the same place every time with crimping pliers. I get what you mean, but crimps done properly doesn’t affect the breaking strain at all. I tested it at work, once you take the strength lost from knot tying (swivel and lead clip) then I can get 100% breaking strain with crimps done properly
Good to learn new things, great quality and very well explained, nice one 👍
Cheers mark👍
Really good video and very well explained my favourite is the first one with the gum especially when float fishing for pike
Cheers stephen👍 it has a great advantage being able to attach it as an afterthought
Informative & well explained, as always👍🏻
Cheers Chris 👍
Very informative well done
Thanks mal👍
Great vid and very useful for us beginners, I recently got some power gum as I was a little worried about using crimps and damaging the line, I'll try and build some 2 hook flappers over the weekend, thanks again for another quality vid , be lucky 🎣👍
Cheers mate, i hate crimps to and very seldom use them unless its on big heavy mono
Hi Mate,
I have used the breakaway crimp with success, with the tube stops, I find neoprene gives better results than silicon. I use your long range rig and use a sliding stop for the hook length. This allows the snood to be changed for different conditions. Also it will slide down under load and act like a pulley rig.
The tube stops never work that well if the silicone is too thick and i think thats why the neoprene is a bit better.
I have a couple of the long range rigs with a sliding stop too👍👍. Its a good improvement and makes fighting a fish a bit easier
Useful information. The Breakaway adjustable crimps are excellent. Always been wary of using ordinary crimps damaging the line, so never used them. Do you think there is any advantage in 'rig glue' over ordinary Superglue? As is often the case in Fishing, anything branded for fishing is often 4x the price!
I hate crimps too and only ever use them on really heavy mono.
Im not sure of the difference between the two glue but i do know that most superglues are not waterproof they are only resistant 👍
Hi. Ordinary silicone tube?
Or do people just get it from the tackle shop£🧐😱
Just use basic mono instead of expensive power gum. Work the same.
The only thing with mono is that when it's wet it slips very easy
The silicon tube is the best and forget about the rest. What your explanation missing is for the first 3, 1 knot maybe not strong enough, if not strong enough then add another one, it would make a big different. There are 3 main reasons why the first 3 are preferable: a) They are cheap especially with the silicon tube, 2) Imagine one of your hook line is damaged and you just want to replace the hook line only, it would be very easy as the stopper can move around so you do not have to try to get the replacement hook line to the same exact size to the damaged one, c) This applies to the silicon tube only, you can remove the tube from the rig and reuse for something else or you can alter the rig and reuse the tube, it is not wasted and is better for environment and cheap.
This really isn't entirely correct because all of the different stops, both adjustable and fixed, will out perform the others when used in the right circumstances.
The silicone tube is a really light stop used as worm stops or a float stop but power gum is better and more suited for that.
The first 3 are all adjustable and thats why they are cheaper than a fixed stop, because a fixed stop needs to be stronger and more robust. All of these stops, if applied correctly, wont damage your line.
And you cannot use the first 3 on large rigs for big fish, they wont work. All these stops are as good as each other in the right circumstances 👍
@@gsp That is why I said you add 2 stops rather 1 to keep tight and strong. You need stop knots mostly for clip down, distance casting, it has nothing to do with small or big fish, that is to do with the line strength.
@@mvatoiband not at all, you need crimps to hold hook snoods away from leads on shark rigs, you need stop knots to adjust floats as you can attch them afterwards, you need fixed stoppers when building clipped down rigs. You are limiting the performance of your setup by only using 1 stop
@@gsp the problem here you don't read my comment, you just like to prove your way to nowhere, YOU CAN USE silicon tube for clipped down rig, I use for all my rigs and I cast at least 100m each time and never have a problem. The point I am trying to open your eyes is if one is if one knot is not strong enough then ADD 2 or 3 stops, try it yourself then you will see, you need hell of a force to push 2 knots at the same time. There is nothing wrong of using crimps but they are old days and not flexible, with the tube it gives you loads of flexibilities.
I caught sharks at Hayling Island and you need a proper shark rig, just few crimps is not enough. The trace line is way over 100lb or steel line, steel line is better. What we are talking here is normal fishing like 10-20lb smoot hound or 10-15lb ray at best.
I do read your comments and your telling me that the silcone is the best out of all of the stops and that you can use it for everything but my point is proven with your last comment. How is it better to have to use 3 pieces of knotted silcone (which is the most synthetic material out of all used, so bad for the environment) instead of a figure of eight knot which uses no extra material, or a crimp which will hold strong and then rust away if lost or power gum which is derived from natural gum. Im just try to point out that all of the mentioned stops have pros and cons and they will all stand out against others in certain scenarios. When wet silicone slides so underwater, on a paternoster rig it will move under slight pressure.
No of these are right and none of these are wrong.
You dont need a proper shark rig for smooth hound and a light titanium hook length with cirle hook for tope (not steel) but when i target 200lb+ stingrays or tiger sharks silicone wont cut it. Thats why the video shows all the different types of stops.
My way shows all the different stops available to use, so my way is informing people what can be used. Your way is telling me 1 is best and the rest are wrong
I don’t understand how you prefer trying a knot in your rig body over crimping. Don’t use crimping tools/pliers for rig stops as they tighten the crimp way too much, they’re used when attaching hooks to very heavy mono or wire. Use some precision round nose pliers for rig stops
Always prefer a figure of 8 knot as its a pretty consistent 80% strength. Crimps used even with crimping tools vary in strength comprimisation because no 2 monos are the same diameter. I'll use crimps on mono over 100lb but not below. They would be my last choice but thats just me.
The reason you should use round nose pliers is so you can actually crimp it to suit the rig body diameter, not just crimp it to the same place every time with crimping pliers. I get what you mean, but crimps done properly doesn’t affect the breaking strain at all. I tested it at work, once you take the strength lost from knot tying (swivel and lead clip) then I can get 100% breaking strain with crimps done properly
@@harrycheverst why don’t you show us as it would put my mind at rest !
Thanks