I'm a Mason from Trinidad and I'm loving your work. I love the ending when you looked at the massive chimney and said..."thank God I ain't on that chimney". Lol. That would require proper scaffolding and many helpers. Lol.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience. TH-cam's great for this kind of stuff. Laughed out loud at the final comment on that massive industrial chimney.
That precast cap looks like a pretty good idea. When I worked with Nick we would hang a form from the top of the flue pipes so the cap would be about 2-3 inches thick at the edge. Many of the masons in Fairfield county would just make a coping that tapered to nothing at the outside edge. After two or three years in the sun that thin edge of mortar would curl up and away from the brick. We did the brick veneer on a three flue chimney on the gable end of a one story family room off the back of a two story house. Both Nick and his brother Ralph told the homeowner that it was too short for the fireplace to flue to draw. The homeowner insisted that this was what the architect had specified, was the right size flue for the size of the fireplace and met code. About a year later we were back there, breaking up the nice thick cap so we could add another six feet to the height of the chimney.
same i think the 70's architecture for looks was kept to short looks ok from the road but when my winter weather comes it back puffs so 10FT more up and that should fix it plus meet local code
I have been getting more chimney repairs this fall, and i found it to be something i do not mind doing . I have a hard time getting work ,so i welcome anything i get . Thanks, Mike .
Thank you, Mike for posting/sharing, you have a great way of teaching/explaining what your doing, in a way that would encourage someone rather permanently discouraging. Very cool video thanks again.
hello Mike! I subscribed a couple months ago, I've been in the trade for 22 years and still going strong. there's never a day that goes by that I'm not learning something new, a new trick, etc. I love how you emphasize every mason has their own way! it's so true, although it's all the same in the end we all have certain methods/movements that work for us as individual masons. I've picked up a pointer or two from you and can't thank you enough for all your posted vids. they're great for everyone. the do it yourselfers, all the way to the seasoned vets like me. I have the utmost respect for you Mike! ! Thanks again for all your material. God bless
We call those bricks tapistry bricks here in boston , they absorb water like crazy , most guys up here use water struck around chimneys , and complain about how long they take to set up! Great video Mike.
I've been watching your videos for a long time. I like your style! I am a longtime mason in Tennessee but always learning. Thanks for the informative (and always entertaining---I've used the dollar store levels in a pinch!) videos.
Mr. Haduck: you mentioned that people are going to steel chimneys. Our neighborhood is about half and half. I probably need a mini-rebuild (only the upper 8 levels have deteriorating mortar). I'm thinking that we could rip out the top layers / levels and then build up using other non-brick materials to regain the height over the crown of the roof. And it's more repairable. Or so I think. Nice, neat work, by the way. any comments? Good video. thanks for taking the time to show us how it's done.
How do you keep the clay flu centered between the bricks Mike ?? Do you use the martyr mix you mixed attaching the 2 foot sections between the joints ?? How often do you marter between each clayt section ?? Thank you Mike for your help too. Peace v
Hi victory, basicly I cement each one together sometimes they have to be shimmed and packed, but anymore its common to use steal liners, masonry chimneys are becoming a thing of the past, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, 24 year old whos been doing contracting for a little while and I'm using your videos to learn Masonry so thanks for the videos. Hello from the Lebanon Valley area!
Hi Yomom, one day I am going to do a video on retaining walls in general ( I consider them temporary) especially in PA. the only ones I ever seen built well was by the railroads and I seen a lot of guys get in trouble with them, if they are just some loose caps I would go with either cement or glue, no matter as long as it works, but I stay away from building new ones for customers, I appreciate it. mike
Nice video as always Mike. I have the "wimmin" in the neighborhood doing masonry work now. I am teaching them your techniques. (Like I am an old pro now, lol). I redid the steps so now I am a professional. I'll tell you though, I have learned more from your videos than the thirty years I worked in metalworking which was an education believe me, in Philadelphia yet. I still have so much more to do yet, as I now see dampness on the garage floor. Two houses, mine included were built over a creek. Not so much mine as the other woman's house. It never ends in this neck of the woods. Thanks for sharing your craft with everyone, what a gift to give others. God Bless.
Beautiful work. I tend to avoid putting mortar between the cap and flue because of expansion and contraction being different. The flue will move causing separation. I use a flexible sealant instead of mortar.
Hey Mike! I notice you guys don't use metal rain caps and screens in your area for the flues. That sure would help keep moisture and pest entry into the flues, plus extend the the chimney life. Love your work and tips!
Thanks Mike, those old factory chimney are fascinating to me, how did they get them so perfect? Do you know anything about them? Thanks for bringing your viewers on the job today.
Fantastic sharing Mike ! Thank you so much.....I am really enjoying my re build aaaand heck !! We could tackle that one behind your client's house, LOL 💪👍......I am in Ottawa Canada, eh......
Between 2:18 and 238 the Apron at the bottom of chimney seems to be over the first flashing instead of under . Water look to be able to run down flashing and under bottom Apron, unless I am missing something. Learning a lot from your videos, thank you. .
Hi Jope, I remember going up and rechecking it a couple weeks later, because I know the tar shrinks and nothing was wrong, but I appreciate it, thanks, mike
im a roofer from massachusetts done very little brick work but ive been watching hours of videos on your channel and im going to attempt my first chimney its only about 4 feet tall my biggest concern is what mix to use i would guess pennsylvania has a pretty similiar climate what would you suggest if you can help me out id be happy to donate to your channel or any charity you like ! this is for a close friend i did her roof but now i feel guilty because the damned chimney was cracked all the way down the back side i didnt see this on my estimate now shes getting assholes that want to rent lulls to get on this thing its very walkable and ive got plenty of staging to use please help me !
My chimneys on my house are over 100 years old! Never been rebuilt! They are still good because they are built from accrington engineering brick made in Lancashire England. Lime mortar. They even built the foundations of the empire State building from these same bricks!
Thanks Lee, that's a good thing, in our area lime mortar falls apart, New York, Philadelphia and your part of the world has different weather than us, but one thing I will say is England got the best bricklayers, thanks Mike
Hi Daniel, there is no set cost, everything depends on who does what. Who buys the materials. What area it is in. Hoe high the chimney is, etc, etc. Thanks Mike
I'm a CSIA certified chimney sweep. This chimney did not deteriorate because of the antenna.. it deteriorated because of the mortar joints between the flue tiles were bad. Then I'm willing to Guess that they probably pump the hot water heater and furnace through there. Then the hydrocarbons leak between the flue tiles into the mortar and deteriorate it. The heavy winter cycles in Wisconsin also help to damage this. Plus the crown appears to be built from mortar and it should be concrete.. with a drip edge. Add some chimney saver waterproofing to your mortar mix and then after your rebuild coat the outside of the chimney with chimney saver which will repel water for 10 years just like your rain jacket. Also were the flue tile sticks out of the chimney Cap over the years wasn't maintained so water would slip in through there. However the antenna did help contribute to the deterioration of that chimney but it's not its main problem, at all. It mostly helped us deterioration after the damage on the inside was already started. Also note that a mistake Mason's make is that the chimney Cap needs to be made of concrete and free-floating from the bricks. So it it can expand and contract at different rates than the brick without doing damage.
@@MikeHaduck I apologize if you went through some of these things in your other videos which I haven't watched, yet. Admittedly I'm no master bricklayer. One of my weakest skills is laying bricks. So I try to stay away from bricklaying as much as possible. Lol
Hi A MR, masons always learn more from tearing down old work than building new, because they know what went wrong, you know what your looking at, so that's the good thing, thanks Mike
the cap is cracked on my chimney & I have some porcelain tile lying around. wondered If I could just use that to create a 2-3" overhang on the top, or even lower on the sides. can you think of any issues with that?
New brick are smaller than old brick really no crap just like a 2or is really 2or? Wow your a fart smellea I mean a smart fella! Much love from Boston Mass keep laying them mickies!
I bought a 12x8x24 clay flue liner that I want to install for a pizza oven that I am building out of perlite/ Portland cement. The flue is heavy. I was thinking of putting the flue inside the hole I made and securing it with refractory mortar mix. Do you think that once it dries, it’ll hold? Any advice would help!
Another great video. I'm Starting a new chimney project ( 17 inch concrete chimney block - 8 inch clay tile liner ) going in a remodeled Farm Granary, 34 feet high, burning Anthracite coal in a 1947 Warm Morning stove. Your videos have been an inspiration. Thanks for all the time and effort put into your video uploads. Best Regards: john
Hi john, that is super high, you probably made your mind up but I would check with the stainless steel chimney first. we did that up our cabin and it is so much better than the block,,, thanks for the loyalty I appreciate it. Mike
I understand with the coal, I respect Farmers, work never ends, my brother has a little farm and seems like everything is against him, but its a honest life, God bless. mike
Hi Adrian, everything now is codes, 6 inches don't seem like much for a wood burning stove, I would ask your local woodburning experts that specialize in selling that supplies, thanks Mike
The holes in the brick allow the hot gasses in the kiln get to the core of the brick at the same time it gets to the outside of the brick, aka more uniform sintering.
Hi mike .those precast concrete caps are very handy. Regarding the raked out joints ( which have become very popular in Ireland over the past 25 years and I must say can be very visually pleasing) I think they are not the right finish for exterior brick joints .as you know raking out creates a ledge that allows water to sit which is not a good thing. Overall very nice job . My use of raked out joints is confined to matching already in place surrounding brickwork or on request ( which Id say is the case with your job here) I prefer to use a concave joint finish on exterior work which is more effective at shedding water.
Hi bric, yes chimneys are almost a thing of the past with new heating systems, only repair work left, I use to make my own caps but just threw out the form, your right about the joints but I got to match what the rest of the building was, thanks mike
a lot of my jobs are for people I know so they got the materials and I just did the labor, or I team up with someone for a days labor, I am getting a bit old for bidding and rather have time off, but I enjoy making the videos, I appreciate the comment, thanks mike
that is true, I got a lot more videos on my computer with honest mike coming up,, he just tried to sell me a four woman one man hot tub. lol, thanks mike
Exceptional work very clean and professional.The quality of your work is old school when things were done with pride and quality and meant to last . Idk if it’s me but everything is rushed now and days and some workmanship is garbage your left wondering why did I pay for that kind of work .? Anyways great job 👏
Hi Mike I bought bricks 1 inch longer than what I have on my current chimney. I just couldn’t find that size. What do I do just cut the bricks to make them match? Thank you!
No expansion joint ?? I guess you'll be ok if they don burn wood, but its not optimal- the prefab crown is very rigid concrete, and the flue tile is old flue tile.
Mike, I'm about to do the same thing but with sandstone blocks instead of brick. do you have any suggestions or is it very similar? Thank you for all your videos I'm a big fan of yours. DW
Mike what do you use for the roof protection? Couldn’t tell if they were canvas painters tarp/old carpet or other. I will be working on a rubber roof. Thanks
Hi Zak I use old carpets, especially on a rubber roof you got to take a lot of precautions, you will be the first one to blame if they get a leak, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Mike can you recommend a place and type of a metal chimney? You say people are going with metal chimneys since brick and mortar requires maintenance much more. Any suggestions are welcome Thank you Arek
Hi user, I go around and fix some chimneys but I will not build a new one. Everybody has gone to power vents or stainless steel inserts or stainless steel chimneys, the days of masonry chimneys are over, thanks Mike
Hi,mike what is a going rate for something like this ? Maybe a four foot chimney replacement ? i am seeing prices like $150 a foot .I have been doing a few re-pointing of chimneys,but i have two estimates to do on rebuilds .Thank you . Al.
Hi Al, I never go by ft. I just look at it, (they got the material) I will not pick out or get the brick because it might never match and I am color blind anyway,, and then figure how much time and go by that, "a honest days pay and a little more for small extras " never fails, I don't see me much on chimneys anymore, I hope it helps thanks mike
Hi Mike, love your workmanship. On my chimney,the flue pipe that extends past the cap is broken. My question is, are the flue pipe sections cemented in place or just sitting on top of each other. Also, can I replace that one broken flue pipe without dismantling the brick work. Thank you.
Hi Vincent, I always seen the last flue pipe cemented, and below the cap it is just the cement from the back of the brick touching, depends on the mason who did it. might come right our or you might have to take a few courses out or just cut the top and replace part of the flue, every situation is a bit different, I hope it helps thanks, mike
Hi Elric, I’ve sealed a lot of chimneys tha was having water problems, And it worked fine, check with the pint stores to see what would work best in your situation, I hope it helps thanks Mike
Like your videos Mike. I just wonder with your mix - 2 to 1 withtype S with a shovel of Portland. Would a mix of 3 to 1 using all Portland be about the same? Just wondering.
Hi Jeff sometimes I use just portland and sand for almost everything (2 sand 1 portland) but with this brick ,,,,mortar is a little more forgiving, hard to explain but in my area plain mortar does not hold up by itself,, other areas are different, thanks mike
He makes a good point about the one inch space around the flue. Does anyone really think that in the Northern states that a flue 15 feet up from the boiler is going to be expanding ? I doubt it.
@@MikeHaduck lime on historic buildings that were built using lime you know what we call listed buildings of historical importance for everything else we use OPC ordinary Portland cement 👍
Regular chimney repairs and maintenance will ensure your safety when you are using your fireplace or wood stove. Let our experts take a look and see if improvements are needed. Gary’s Gutter Services provides friendly servicing on your chimney by a knowledgeable group of masonry professionals. Read more: www.garysgutterservice.com/article/how-to-hire-a-chimney-repair-service/
Hey Mike, i bought a house in gate city va. the chmney inspector said my top where my chimney sticks out should be rebuilt before he put in the metal liner.. i was wondering what are your thoughts on someone covering a chimney in wood and adding a topper and metalliner to stop further damage to a chimney ? i have also thought of having somene take the chimney down where it sticks out of the roof and then buiild sides out of wood to hold an insulated liner and topper... is this an idea that is doable. i really want to use my wood burner in my house i got one of those wood gassifiers from the 70's called tempwood.. a stove that loads from the top with two little tubes running from the top to feed air into the fire.. i am dying to use this little stove in my house.. any suggestions would be appreciated.. thanks..
hi soahcalm they make metal stainless chimneys where you you could get both things done at once, I do not like the wood burner idea anywhere close to a wood burner chimney, you get a chimney fire you are in trouble, my opinion, I would check with all the wood burner shops and ask what chimney they recommend, I hope it helps, thanks mike
thank you very much for the speedy reply i love watching your videos, its such a lost art fixing these old chimneys.. I will check with this store that sells wood stoves near where the house is that i just bought and see what they recommend. the chimney sweep recommended taking my chimney down to the roofline and rebuilding the top so that hit would hold the topper and new stainless steel liner.. it sounds like the safest idea i guess.. thanks again for the reply.. appreciate all the advice i can get on this place. i put some photos on this sight for permaculture.. some of the old house dunno if i have too many photos of the chimney on there though.. your welcome to look around.. i like reading about renovations myself i find it quite interesting.. i had to go up yesterday and redo the six inch gutters ijust installed because due to the sill rot the house was not level and the down hill flow i put on them was not enough.. now they are attached to th house in places and have to dangle from a hanger by a coat hanger on the other end.. only way i could get the water to flow away from the house at the moment.. until i can get those sills replaced... taike care .. thanks again. this is my link if your interested.. permies.com/t/73681/Advice-clearance-tempwood-stove
I was taught when you build chimmney you don't pack it solid around the flue only support it with scrap brick and a few hand full of mortar. 1- because if the cap cracks the water will pool, freeze and cracks the flue and the brickwork. 2- the flue gets very hot, especially with fuel oil heat, the flues need a little give to expand other wise they crack. Have you heard of this method ? You couldn't do it this way because there was no space between the flue and brick. Your customer bought module bricks which are shorter then the old standard bricks so your head joints were big.
Hi Meno, actually nobody builds masonry chimneys anymore because no matter what or how you build them ( it is only a matter of time) they fall apart. up here where I live if you did not fill around the flue the flue would shatter during cleaning especially with wood burners, where the chimney would block and heavy bars would be dropped down to clean them, everything has gone to metal now, I have not built a masonry chimney in years, and I will not, only repairs, and then I insist they use a metal insert, thanks mike
good question, sometimes pouring concrete I get worried about it getting away when too hot, but otherwise I never really had a problem, sometimes I do things to keep it wet longer like covering it with plastic, thanks mike
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a Mason from Trinidad and I'm loving your work. I love the ending when you looked at the massive chimney and said..."thank God I ain't on that chimney". Lol. That would require proper scaffolding and many helpers. Lol.
Thanks Lbrahiym, nice to hear from Trinidad, Mike
Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience. TH-cam's great for this kind of stuff. Laughed out loud at the final comment on that massive industrial chimney.
Thanks, Mike
Great video, I used this lesson to rebuild my brick chimney. Live in the northern most part of Michigan.
Thanks Jerry, Mike
That precast cap looks like a pretty good idea. When I worked with Nick we would hang a form from the top of the flue pipes so the cap would be about 2-3 inches thick at the edge. Many of the masons in Fairfield county would just make a coping that tapered to nothing at the outside edge. After two or three years in the sun that thin edge of mortar would curl up and away from the brick. We did the brick veneer on a three flue chimney on the gable end of a one story family room off the back of a two story house. Both Nick and his brother Ralph told the homeowner that it was too short for the fireplace to flue to draw. The homeowner insisted that this was what the architect had specified, was the right size flue for the size of the fireplace and met code. About a year later we were back there, breaking up the nice thick cap so we could add another six feet to the height of the chimney.
I Hear you J, I been through same thing, thanks mike
same i think the 70's architecture for looks was kept to short looks ok from the road but when my winter weather comes it back puffs so 10FT more up and that should fix it plus meet local code
I have been getting more chimney repairs this fall, and i found it to be something i do not mind doing . I have a hard time getting work ,so i welcome anything i get . Thanks, Mike .
that is great, I am sure it will grow, thanks mike
I loved the very end... "Thank God it's not on that building". Great stuff!
Thanks Nathan, Mike
Thank you, Mike for posting/sharing, you have a great way of teaching/explaining what your doing, in a way that would encourage someone rather permanently discouraging. Very cool video thanks again.
Thanks Len, mike
Looks great Mike
Thanks Karl, Mike
hello Mike! I subscribed a couple months ago, I've been in the trade for 22 years and still going strong. there's never a day that goes by that I'm not learning something new, a new trick, etc. I love how you emphasize every mason has their own way! it's so true, although it's all the same in the end we all have certain methods/movements that work for us as individual masons. I've picked up a pointer or two from you and can't thank you enough for all your posted vids. they're great for everyone. the do it yourselfers, all the way to the seasoned vets like me. I have the utmost respect for you Mike! ! Thanks again for all your material. God bless
Hi shawn, I appreciate it. especially hearing from pros like you, it makes me feel I am on the right track, God bless, thanks, mike
Thanks Mike, about to start my first chimney repair this weekend. Very helpful, I’m in PA too.
thanks Zak, I hope it works out, I am sure you will do fine, thanks mike
Nice job, Mike 🙂
Thanks Sheena, Mike
We call those bricks tapistry bricks here in boston , they absorb water like crazy , most guys up here use water struck around chimneys , and complain about how long they take to set up! Great video Mike.
Thanks Rocco, I know you got a lot of old buildings in that area, been there, Mike
The carpet on the roof, great idea, very secure footing.
Thanks Paul, mike
I've been watching your videos for a long time. I like your style! I am a longtime mason in Tennessee but always learning. Thanks for the informative (and always entertaining---I've used the dollar store levels in a pinch!) videos.
thanks Paul, I appreciate hearing that from a pro, thanks again, mike
Thanks, Mike. Great job. Very instructive, too.
Thanks Michael, Mike
You make it look easy....nice job
Roofer here. The Mortar over the flashings often leaks. The Mortar doesn’t bond/seal to metal. Looks awesome
Thanks, Mike
That is a great video thank you
Thanks. Mike
Beautiful chimney work
Thanks Sarah, mike
Thanks for sharing, easy to follow and understand for beginners, great
Thanks Maria, mike
Mr. Haduck: you mentioned that people are going to steel chimneys. Our neighborhood is about half and half. I probably need a mini-rebuild (only the upper 8 levels have deteriorating mortar). I'm thinking that we could rip out the top layers / levels and then build up using other non-brick materials to regain the height over the crown of the roof. And it's more repairable. Or so I think.
Nice, neat work, by the way.
any comments? Good video. thanks for taking the time to show us how it's done.
Hi Keith, It's up to the homeowner on repairs , I would ask some local chimney repair contractors and get some advice first, thanks mike
Very informative. Thank you for the post, Mike.
Thanks J, mike
How do you keep the clay flu centered between the bricks Mike ?? Do you use the martyr mix you mixed attaching the 2 foot sections between the joints ?? How often do you marter between each clayt section ?? Thank you Mike for your help too. Peace v
Hi victory, basicly I cement each one together sometimes they have to be shimmed and packed, but anymore its common to use steal liners, masonry chimneys are becoming a thing of the past, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thank you Mike for the information Sir.
Hey Mike, 24 year old whos been doing contracting for a little while and I'm using your videos to learn Masonry so thanks for the videos. Hello from the Lebanon Valley area!
Hi Yomon, thanks, I am glad if they help, I appreciate it. mike
Mike Haduck One quick question Mike, what do you consider as the ideal stuff for gluing loose block for a retaining wall?
Hi Yomom, one day I am going to do a video on retaining walls in general ( I consider them temporary) especially in PA. the only ones I ever seen built well was by the railroads and I seen a lot of guys get in trouble with them, if they are just some loose caps I would go with either cement or glue, no matter as long as it works, but I stay away from building new ones for customers, I appreciate it. mike
Mike Haduck Okay awesome Mike, thanks so much! I'm in PA as well like I said earlier so I appreciate the advice.
Nice to see how a chimney is done.Thanks
thanks mrembo, I appreciate it. mike
Nice video as always Mike. I have the "wimmin" in the neighborhood doing masonry work now. I am teaching them your techniques. (Like I am an old pro now, lol). I redid the steps so now I am a professional. I'll tell you though, I have learned more from your videos than the thirty years I worked in metalworking which was an education believe me, in Philadelphia yet. I still have so much more to do yet, as I now see dampness on the garage floor. Two houses, mine included were built over a creek. Not so much mine as the other woman's house. It never ends in this neck of the woods. Thanks for sharing your craft with everyone, what a gift to give others. God Bless.
thanks Dolores, these comments keep me going, still learning myself, anything that works i always say, God bless , Mike
Nice work like your technique
Thanks Alexis, Mike
best channel on youtube
that is encouraging and keeps me going, thanks mike
That chimney at the end though😂😂
Thanks, mike
Amazing work
Thanks Cooldude, mike
👋🇨🇦 Excellent post Mike! Very helpful.👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Steven, Mike
Beautiful work. I tend to avoid putting mortar between the cap and flue because of expansion and contraction being different. The flue will move causing separation. I use a flexible sealant instead of mortar.
You use backer rod right?
pleasure to watch you work. you have nice quick hands
thanks brian, I hope it helps, mike
Hey Mike! I notice you guys don't use metal rain caps and screens in your area for the flues. That sure would help keep moisture and pest entry into the flues, plus extend the the chimney life. Love your work and tips!
Hi Tony, they were suppose to get a plumber to put a liner in the chimney and hood on top, I just did the mason stuff, thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Thank you Mike for the videos. I live in Franklin, Pa. in a 1841 double-brick house. I have learned a lot.
Thanks Christine, I am glad if they help, mike
Thanks Mike, those old factory chimney are fascinating to me, how did they get them so perfect? Do you know anything about them?
Thanks for bringing your viewers on the job today.
Hi Len, they were just brick on brick but the scaffolding and the heights scare me, lol, mike
Great video 👍
Thanks Jim, Mike
Fantastic sharing Mike ! Thank you so much.....I am really enjoying my re build aaaand heck !! We could tackle that one behind your client's house, LOL 💪👍......I am in Ottawa Canada, eh......
Thanks Michal,Mike
You.do.Beautiful.work...I.learn.so.much.from.you....Thankyou.
Thanks Bob, I am glad if it helps, thanks mike
here in Ontario we use the same concrete cap but we fill the void with stone mix, similar to you we have harsh winters.
Thanks Christian, Mike
Between 2:18 and 238 the Apron at the bottom of chimney seems to be over the first flashing instead of under . Water look to be able to run down flashing and under bottom Apron, unless I am missing something.
Learning a lot from your videos, thank you. .
Hi Jope, I remember going up and rechecking it a couple weeks later, because I know the tar shrinks and nothing was wrong, but I appreciate it, thanks, mike
Nice job!
thanks Deplorable, mike
Excellent job
thanks Sst I appreciate it. mike
Thx Mike very informative video
Thank you, mike
im a roofer from massachusetts done very little brick work but ive been watching hours of videos on your channel and im going to attempt my first chimney its only about 4 feet tall my biggest concern is what mix to use i would guess pennsylvania has a pretty similiar climate what would you suggest if you can help me out id be happy to donate to your channel or any charity you like ! this is for a close friend i did her roof but now i feel guilty because the damned chimney was cracked all the way down the back side i didnt see this on my estimate now shes getting assholes that want to rent lulls to get on this thing its very walkable and ive got plenty of staging to use please help me !
Hi Lou, in my area I use 1 s motar to 2 mason sand, if I buy the premix with sand In It,, I add a trowel of Portland for a little more strength,, mike
My chimneys on my house are over 100 years old!
Never been rebuilt!
They are still good because they are built from accrington engineering brick made in Lancashire England.
Lime mortar.
They even built the foundations of the empire State building from these same bricks!
Thanks Lee, that's a good thing, in our area lime mortar falls apart, New York, Philadelphia and your part of the world has different weather than us, but one thing I will say is England got the best bricklayers, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks Mike I'm sure there are great bricklayers all over the world .
They just have different ways of doing it. Cheers.
Gota go up there too... I disconnected hardware. Never occurred to me it was culprit
Thanks Jerome, mike
Your vids are cool man, thanks!
thanks Sugar, I appreciate it. mike
Nice job on the chimney rebuild,I will be having mine done soon ,what is the cost of this job in 2023 ,thank you
Hi Daniel, there is no set cost, everything depends on who does what. Who buys the materials. What area it is in. Hoe high the chimney is, etc, etc. Thanks Mike
I'm a CSIA certified chimney sweep. This chimney did not deteriorate because of the antenna.. it deteriorated because of the mortar joints between the flue tiles were bad. Then I'm willing to Guess that they probably pump the hot water heater and furnace through there. Then the hydrocarbons leak between the flue tiles into the mortar and deteriorate it. The heavy winter cycles in Wisconsin also help to damage this. Plus the crown appears to be built from mortar and it should be concrete.. with a drip edge.
Add some chimney saver waterproofing to your mortar mix and then after your rebuild coat the outside of the chimney with chimney saver which will repel water for 10 years just like your rain jacket. Also were the flue tile sticks out of the chimney Cap over the years wasn't maintained so water would slip in through there.
However the antenna did help contribute to the deterioration of that chimney but it's not its main problem, at all. It mostly helped us deterioration after the damage on the inside was already started.
Also note that a mistake Mason's make is that the chimney Cap needs to be made of concrete and free-floating from the bricks. So it it can expand and contract at different rates than the brick without doing damage.
Thanks, I agree, Mike
@@MikeHaduck I apologize if you went through some of these things in your other videos which I haven't watched, yet.
Admittedly I'm no master bricklayer. One of my weakest skills is laying bricks. So I try to stay away from bricklaying as much as possible. Lol
Hi A MR, masons always learn more from tearing down old work than building new, because they know what went wrong, you know what your looking at, so that's the good thing, thanks Mike
the cap is cracked on my chimney & I have some porcelain tile lying around. wondered If I could just use that to create a 2-3" overhang on the top, or even lower on the sides. can you think of any issues with that?
Hi Joseph, I couldn't say unless I was there to see it, I tell everyone to cover the top with metal if you can, thanks mike
Looks 👍 great
thanks Werz, I appreciate it. mike
New brick are smaller than old brick really no crap just like a 2or is really 2or? Wow your a fart smellea I mean a smart fella! Much love from Boston Mass keep laying them mickies!
Thanks Adam, Mike
I bought a 12x8x24 clay flue liner that I want to install for a pizza oven that I am building out of perlite/ Portland cement. The flue is heavy. I was thinking of putting the flue inside the hole I made and securing it with refractory mortar mix. Do you think that once it dries, it’ll hold? Any advice would help!
Hi Antonio, it might but heat cracks flues, everything is going to metal, thanks Mike
Another great video. I'm Starting a new chimney project ( 17 inch concrete chimney block - 8 inch clay tile liner ) going in a remodeled Farm Granary, 34 feet high, burning Anthracite coal in a 1947 Warm Morning stove. Your videos have been an inspiration. Thanks for all the time and effort put into your video uploads. Best Regards: john
Hi john, that is super high, you probably made your mind up but I would check with the stainless steel chimney first. we did that up our cabin and it is so much better than the block,,, thanks for the loyalty I appreciate it. Mike
I understand with the coal, I respect Farmers, work never ends, my brother has a little farm and seems like everything is against him, but its a honest life, God bless. mike
That chimney seems so small, can it be used for wood-burning stove with 6" stainless steel liner ?
Hi Adrian, everything now is codes, 6 inches don't seem like much for a wood burning stove, I would ask your local woodburning experts that specialize in selling that supplies, thanks Mike
Doesn't the weight of the cap push out the mortar? Or do you have to wait a bit for it to harden?
Hi Brandon, it's get hard as you go, so I never had a problem, thanks Mike
The holes in the brick allow the hot gasses in the kiln get to the core of the brick at the same time it gets to the outside of the brick, aka more uniform sintering.
Thanks Paul, Mike
Good job
Thank God I ain't on that chimney over there! 😂 🗼 great job !
Thanks Marvin, Mike
Hi mike .those precast concrete caps are very handy. Regarding the raked out joints ( which have become very popular in Ireland over the past 25 years and I must say can be very visually pleasing) I think they are not the right finish for exterior brick joints .as you know raking out creates a ledge that allows water to sit which is not a good thing. Overall very nice job . My use of raked out joints is confined to matching already in place surrounding brickwork or on request ( which Id say is the case with your job here) I prefer to use a concave joint finish on exterior work which is more effective at shedding water.
Hi bric, yes chimneys are almost a thing of the past with new heating systems, only repair work left, I use to make my own caps but just threw out the form, your right about the joints but I got to match what the rest of the building was, thanks mike
Your work is incredible. How much would you charge for a job like this?
I wish you had a program on TV like the days of Bob Ross paintings
a lot of my jobs are for people I know so they got the materials and I just did the labor, or I team up with someone for a days labor, I am getting a bit old for bidding and rather have time off, but I enjoy making the videos, I appreciate the comment, thanks mike
Your a good man Mike
Mike, with that pre-cast chimney cap, that'll give you time to go have a beer with Honest Mike! ;o)
that is true, I got a lot more videos on my computer with honest mike coming up,, he just tried to sell me a four woman one man hot tub. lol, thanks mike
Hi Mike just curious how many hours did it take you?
Hi Rob, one day but going for materials putting the scaffold up, help getting everything up there,etc etc, that's an extra day and a half, thanks Mike
Northeast Ohio here . Will be doing the same
Thanks Albeie,I hope it works out thanks Mike
Exceptional work very clean and professional.The quality of your work is old school when things were done with pride and quality and meant to last . Idk if it’s me but everything is rushed now and days and some workmanship is garbage your left wondering why did I pay for that kind of work .? Anyways great job 👏
Thanks Andy, Mike
Hi Mike I bought bricks 1 inch longer than what I have on my current chimney. I just couldn’t find that size. What do I do just cut the bricks to make them match? Thank you!
Hi bojan, when I can't make them fit or I have to replace them that is what I usually do, thanks mike
Mike Haduck Masonry thank you so much. Always love watching your videos. You’ve taught me a lot.
like you videos
thanks, I hope they help, mike
No expansion joint ?? I guess you'll be ok if they don burn wood, but its not optimal- the prefab crown is very rigid concrete, and the flue tile is old flue tile.
Hi John, gas heat, they were told to get a metal insert, masonry chimneys are over with, thanks Mike
Mike,
I'm about to do the same thing but with sandstone blocks instead of brick. do you have any suggestions or is it very similar? Thank you for all your videos I'm a big fan of yours.
DW
Hi Dw, in my opinion, I would approach it the same way, I hope it helps thanks mike
Mike what do you use for the roof protection? Couldn’t tell if they were canvas painters tarp/old carpet or other. I will be working on a rubber roof. Thanks
Hi Zak I use old carpets, especially on a rubber roof you got to take a lot of precautions, you will be the first one to blame if they get a leak, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Mike
can you recommend a place and type of a metal chimney? You say people are going with metal chimneys since brick and mortar requires maintenance much more. Any suggestions are welcome
Thank you
Arek
Arek Kosinski I would check with the chimney supply companies or chimney repair people in your area and they could probably help you thanks Mike
Hey mike why do the bricks fall out if you stop using the chimney?
Weather, thanks, Mike
@@MikeHaduck so why doesnt weather damage it as bad when it's being used?
Hi user, I go around and fix some chimneys but I will not build a new one. Everybody has gone to power vents or stainless steel inserts or stainless steel chimneys, the days of masonry chimneys are over, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduckI'm asking if the bricks fall out faster if you stop using the chimney and why that is
Hi,mike what is a going rate for something like this ? Maybe a four foot chimney replacement ? i am seeing prices like $150 a foot .I have been doing a few re-pointing of chimneys,but i have two estimates to do on rebuilds .Thank you . Al.
Hi Al, I never go by ft. I just look at it, (they got the material) I will not pick out or get the brick because it might never match and I am color blind anyway,, and then figure how much time and go by that, "a honest days pay and a little more for small extras " never fails, I don't see me much on chimneys anymore, I hope it helps thanks mike
+Mike Haduck Thank you ,Mike .
Hi Mike, love your workmanship. On my chimney,the flue pipe that extends past the cap is broken. My question is, are the flue pipe sections cemented in place or just sitting on top of each other. Also, can I replace that one broken flue pipe without dismantling the brick work. Thank you.
Hi Vincent, I always seen the last flue pipe cemented, and below the cap it is just the cement from the back of the brick touching, depends on the mason who did it. might come right our or you might have to take a few courses out or just cut the top and replace part of the flue, every situation is a bit different, I hope it helps thanks, mike
Mike Haduck Masonry hi mike nice watching your video, but how to deal with sinking chimney. The footing is cut on both side and went dowm for 2 inches
I am having a hard time finding a precast cap. Do you know of any stores in Montgomery county PA that sells the precast cap? -Thanks
Hi Lisa, try a block company or masonry supply, or I use to make my own, thanks Mike
can you please say what you charged for that?? thank you
Hi Jeff, everything depends, who buys the material, who scaffolds, who mixes the cement, for me it was a one day job for a friend, Mike
id like to see how you set up your staging. Safety first!
Hi Paul , Middle 60s And ain’t dead yet, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck , we need to stay alive too. Would really like to see your staging.
No rake joints they don't last water and ice get in there!?
Hi Adam, especially chimneys , mike
Can you put sealant on the bricks to make them last longer?
Hi Elric, I’ve sealed a lot of chimneys tha was having water problems, And it worked fine, check with the pint stores to see what would work best in your situation, I hope it helps thanks Mike
Like your videos Mike. I just wonder with your mix - 2 to 1 withtype S with a shovel of Portland. Would a mix of 3 to 1 using all Portland be about the same? Just wondering.
Hi Jeff sometimes I use just portland and sand for almost everything (2 sand 1 portland) but with this brick ,,,,mortar is a little more forgiving, hard to explain but in my area plain mortar does not hold up by itself,, other areas are different, thanks mike
He makes a good point about the one inch space around the flue. Does anyone really think that in the Northern states that a flue 15 feet up from the boiler is going to be expanding ? I doubt it.
Hi Paul, the days of masonry chimneys are over with, thanks mike
Good work on the chimney Mike. I do a lot of rebuilds in PA and always recommend new brick. Quality work
Thanks MMG, I appreciate hearing that, mike
just a question when its raining the water enters in the chimney hole?
when they put the insert inside the chimney it will come with a chimney cap, thanks mike
We've only got Portland Dave from Wales 🏴
Hi Dave, I was under the impression that you guys mostly used lime, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck lime on historic buildings that were built using lime you know what we call listed buildings of historical importance for everything else we use OPC ordinary Portland cement 👍
Thank God I ain’t on that chimney-LOL! 🤪
Thanks Strat, Mike
Where abouts in Pensylvania do you live Mike
Hi Brian, the Scranton area, thanks Mike
setting the scaffold and matt on roof planks and tools took almost as long as the brick job..LOL!
Hi f150, that is true, Mike
What’s your mix for mortar?
Hi Joe, for that chimney in my area I think I used 2 sand to 1 s mortar, other masons may use different, thanks mike
I have a chimney in my kitchen which is not working properly. Whose help can I take to repair it?
Regular chimney repairs and maintenance will ensure your safety when you are using your fireplace or wood stove. Let our experts take a look and see if improvements are needed. Gary’s Gutter Services provides friendly servicing on your chimney by a knowledgeable group of masonry professionals.
Read more: www.garysgutterservice.com/article/how-to-hire-a-chimney-repair-service/
Hi Scott, probably a chimney cleaner first, I hope it helps thanks mike
hate patching in brick for reason u said brick now are not the same size! always looks so much different
HI Gabe, very true, thanks mike
Hey Mike, i bought a house in gate city va. the chmney inspector said my top where my chimney sticks out should be rebuilt before he put in the metal liner.. i was wondering what are your thoughts on someone covering a chimney in wood and adding a topper and metalliner to stop further damage to a chimney ? i have also thought of having somene take the chimney down where it sticks out of the roof and then buiild sides out of wood to hold an insulated liner and topper... is this an idea that is doable. i really want to use my wood burner in my house i got one of those wood gassifiers from the 70's called tempwood.. a stove that loads from the top with two little tubes running from the top to feed air into the fire.. i am dying to use this little stove in my house.. any suggestions would be appreciated.. thanks..
hi soahcalm they make metal stainless chimneys where you you could get both things done at once, I do not like the wood burner idea anywhere close to a wood burner chimney, you get a chimney fire you are in trouble, my opinion, I would check with all the wood burner shops and ask what chimney they recommend, I hope it helps, thanks mike
thank you very much for the speedy reply i love watching your videos, its such a lost art fixing these old chimneys.. I will check with this store that sells wood stoves near where the house is that i just bought and see what they recommend. the chimney sweep recommended taking my chimney down to the roofline and rebuilding the top so that hit would hold the topper and new stainless steel liner.. it sounds like the safest idea i guess.. thanks again for the reply.. appreciate all the advice i can get on this place. i put some photos on this sight for permaculture.. some of the old house dunno if i have too many photos of the chimney on there though.. your welcome to look around.. i like reading about renovations myself i find it quite interesting.. i had to go up yesterday and redo the six inch gutters ijust installed because due to the sill rot the house was not level and the down hill flow i put on them was not enough.. now they are attached to th house in places and have to dangle from a hanger by a coat hanger on the other end.. only way i could get the water to flow away from the house at the moment.. until i can get those sills replaced... taike care .. thanks again. this is my link if your interested.. permies.com/t/73681/Advice-clearance-tempwood-stove
you can see my chimney pretty good in the pictures i posted.. whats sticking up thru the roof..
thanks , mike
I was taught when you build chimmney you don't pack it solid around the flue only support it with scrap brick and a few hand full of mortar. 1- because if the cap cracks the water will pool, freeze and cracks the flue and the brickwork. 2- the flue gets very hot, especially with fuel oil heat, the flues need a little give to expand other wise they crack. Have you heard of this method ? You couldn't do it this way because there was no space between the flue and brick. Your customer bought module bricks which are shorter then the old standard bricks so your head joints were big.
Hi Meno, actually nobody builds masonry chimneys anymore because no matter what or how you build them ( it is only a matter of time) they fall apart. up here where I live if you did not fill around the flue the flue would shatter during cleaning especially with wood burners, where the chimney would block and heavy bars would be dropped down to clean them, everything has gone to metal now, I have not built a masonry chimney in years, and I will not, only repairs, and then I insist they use a metal insert, thanks mike
dry sand and lime
How much for a job like that
Hi Eduardo, everything depends on who dets material, scaffold, who helps,etc etc, every job is different, thanks Mike
Mike, where are you. i need a estimate on my chimney.
Thanks for asking but I am not taking on any more work this year, Mike
Is it ever to hot or to sunny for cement work?
good question, sometimes pouring concrete I get worried about it getting away when too hot, but otherwise I never really had a problem, sometimes I do things to keep it wet longer like covering it with plastic, thanks mike
did u get that cap at the brick-yard?.
Hi Gabe, that one I did , the old days I had a form to make them, thanks mike
Where can you I get one of those pre made caps?
Hi Robert, usually the block or concrete company or masonry supply store, thanks, mike
what is the point of adding "portland" ?
Hi Paul, outside the Portland gardens the cement better, but a lot of masons disagree, my experience, Mike
That's a Crown (splay), the cap is the stainless or copper weather protection that attaches to it. Thanks for making these videos Mike