Hello friend good afternoon. I want to know what you moved after removing the white cover to remove the circuit. My venture has problems in the switch and I want to disarm it but it is not easy as your video indicates, I have already removed the white and black locks from the inside and it does not come out, I feel that I am destroying it internally, it is not easy as you propose. congratulations and thank you.
The problem with these switches are the "auto up". What happens is that they stick and they'll keep going up even after you stopped it and the motors burnout and you won't even know it. The way to fix it is to go buy the cheap Motor switches that don't have the "auto up" feature and you won't have anymore problems!! Spray some silicone spray in the window sills.....windows will go up and down quicker also.
Honestly, it’s hard to blame GM for the switch failures. The whole thing is made by Alps, a famous Japanese brand. I’m surprised to see all those functions integrated into the switch assembly but that isn’t where they fail anyway. The Achilles Heel is the micro switches themselves. GM paid for Japanese quality and didn’t quite get what they paid for.
@@partsshooter dude thank you soo much. Every other video is just installing a new switch and they cost over 100 bucks. I ended up kinna breaking the buttons off but they still fit back on. Anyways I followed the whole cleaning process and my windows are now working great. I also did passenger side. Thank you for saving me time and money and replying. Have a great weekend 👍
@@partsshooter My Montana came with a spare that has the same problem. I’m tempted to try dropping them into an ultrasonic cleaner, lock, stock, and barrel, to see if that works. I was going in just like you did and got most of the way, stopping short of forcing the switch caps off (the skipped part). I don’t want to risk breaking them before I experiment with the the ultrasonic cleaner. ;)
My “good” switches no longer roll the passenger side down so I went ahead and pulled one apart without trying the ultrasonic cleaner. I hope to try that with the other. I found that you couldn’t just flare the plastic button caps to get them off. There is no point with the way they were designed and they will split. I call then “hooded stems” where the hood part you normally see has nothing to do with the connection to the switch underneath… it’s all in the stems. The exterior “hood” completely blocks access to the parts we want to disconnect. Even if you destroy the hood part, the black plastic housing still blocks the stem clips connecting the button caps to the clear pivoting switch plungers. I tried a huge selection of pick and pry tools with various shapes but nothing could access those clips for a non-destructive disassembly. The best way I’ve found to remove the button caps is only slightly destructive in a completely imperceptible way: Tilt the switch back and insert one of those common metal spudger pry tools you often see with cell phone repair parts from China. They are about 5” long, flat, and the head thins out to flat tip opposite a rounded end on the thicker handle side. One example is item number 113772457444. The flat side fits perfectly into down the plunger/stem opening in the black plastic body. You want to push the flat side deep beneath the cap stem and pry up. This will break two clips that hold the cap to the clear plungers, but they still fit on snugly even without these clips. They will be every bit as tight as before and will not fall off. It’s almost like the clips only exist to keep us out, though they could argue that it is to keep people from prying button caps off while installed. Meanwhile, GM lets us pry the whole assembly out with no issue… window switches, lock switch, mirror controls, and bezel. ;) Because they are just as tight as before, prying externally would probably still damage the plastic before the cap pops off. Anyway, the clear plungers are easy to remove as shown in the video by tweaking the plastic parts they snap into. I just cleaned mine and added dielectric grease to all the contacts (top and bottom). There is a relay inside and I don’t know how those will react to an ultrasonic bath in isopropyl so wish me luck with the ultrasonic. :)
Got myself a cheap Venture three weeks ago and yep, first f""n thing to go the driver side window switch wouldn't ya know it. Actually I'll look to trade a Caravan for this garbage Venture..
@@emmettturner9452 I bought two and the first one I sold. The other one is a 2001 with 125,150 miles has all types of nagging problems ( not major ) but their a pain because of faulty engineering including cheaply made seating, stuck manual window crank drooping headliner worn sliding door assemblies Etc,etc, great engine and transmission though.
@@johnalexander4940 Yeah. The engine and transmission were engineered in Japan too. You win some, you lose some, even when contracting to world-renowned I guess. :) GM does have some explaining to do on their part. I’ve always wondered how upholstery could still fail like that after decades of material design and engineering with observable real-world results. The gauge cluster stepper motor failures are pretty concerning too.
I’m not sure how, but dielectric grease helps with resistance too. Most electrical contact cleaners would leave a thin layer of dielectric too.
My 2000 Venture window switch worked off and on now stopped working. I will try this repair.
thank you
You're my angel
Hello friend good afternoon. I want to know what you moved after removing the white cover to remove the circuit. My venture has problems in the switch and I want to disarm it but it is not easy as your video indicates, I have already removed the white and black locks from the inside and it does not come out, I feel that I am destroying it internally, it is not easy as you propose. congratulations and thank you.
The windows and mirrors on my 2003 Venture will not work unless the driver's side door and one of the doors on the passenger side is open.
Why do videos start halfway through? How did you remove the casing from the door in the first place?
Gotta use a bit of reverse engineering my friend
The problem with these switches are the "auto up". What happens is that they stick and they'll keep going up even after you stopped it and the motors burnout and you won't even know it. The way to fix it is to go buy the cheap Motor switches that don't have the "auto up" feature and you won't have anymore problems!! Spray some silicone spray in the window sills.....windows will go up and down quicker also.
Honestly, it’s hard to blame GM for the switch failures. The whole thing is made by Alps, a famous Japanese brand. I’m surprised to see all those functions integrated into the switch assembly but that isn’t where they fail anyway. The Achilles Heel is the micro switches themselves. GM paid for Japanese quality and didn’t quite get what they paid for.
Same problem stuck at 8 mins in try to pry both sides and the outer casing cracking…oof
Green board is loose but the under board with the switches is stuck
Yep the video skips the outer finger rocker switches being removed
Ok so I got it all cleaned out and put together but the drivers side switch won’t do the auto window down when you press it harder.
Took it apart again now both the drivers and passengers side switch don’t work on either door :(
Dirt will do it every time. Thanks for the video
I'm stuck at 8 mins how did u pop the circuit board out so easily? Looks like u removed the buttons some how
You essentially spread them apart. You'll see two eye lids once remove. They ride on a pedestal
@@partsshooter dude thank you soo much. Every other video is just installing a new switch and they cost over 100 bucks. I ended up kinna breaking the buttons off but they still fit back on. Anyways I followed the whole cleaning process and my windows are now working great. I also did passenger side. Thank you for saving me time and money and replying. Have a great weekend 👍
@@partsshooter My Montana came with a spare that has the same problem. I’m tempted to try dropping them into an ultrasonic cleaner, lock, stock, and barrel, to see if that works.
I was going in just like you did and got most of the way, stopping short of forcing the switch caps off (the skipped part). I don’t want to risk breaking them before I experiment with the the ultrasonic cleaner. ;)
My “good” switches no longer roll the passenger side down so I went ahead and pulled one apart without trying the ultrasonic cleaner. I hope to try that with the other.
I found that you couldn’t just flare the plastic button caps to get them off. There is no point with the way they were designed and they will split. I call then “hooded stems” where the hood part you normally see has nothing to do with the connection to the switch underneath… it’s all in the stems.
The exterior “hood” completely blocks access to the parts we want to disconnect. Even if you destroy the hood part, the black plastic housing still blocks the stem clips connecting the button caps to the clear pivoting switch plungers. I tried a huge selection of pick and pry tools with various shapes but nothing could access those clips for a non-destructive disassembly.
The best way I’ve found to remove the button caps is only slightly destructive in a completely imperceptible way:
Tilt the switch back and insert one of those common metal spudger pry tools you often see with cell phone repair parts from China. They are about 5” long, flat, and the head thins out to flat tip opposite a rounded end on the thicker handle side. One example is item number 113772457444. The flat side fits perfectly into down the plunger/stem opening in the black plastic body. You want to push the flat side deep beneath the cap stem and pry up. This will break two clips that hold the cap to the clear plungers, but they still fit on snugly even without these clips. They will be every bit as tight as before and will not fall off. It’s almost like the clips only exist to keep us out, though they could argue that it is to keep people from prying button caps off while installed. Meanwhile, GM lets us pry the whole assembly out with no issue… window switches, lock switch, mirror controls, and bezel. ;) Because they are just as tight as before, prying externally would probably still damage the plastic before the cap pops off.
Anyway, the clear plungers are easy to remove as shown in the video by tweaking the plastic parts they snap into. I just cleaned mine and added dielectric grease to all the contacts (top and bottom). There is a relay inside and I don’t know how those will react to an ultrasonic bath in isopropyl so wish me luck with the ultrasonic. :)
Got myself a cheap Venture three weeks ago and yep, first f""n thing to go the driver side window switch wouldn't ya know it. Actually I'll look to trade a Caravan for this garbage Venture..
Lol
To be fair, the switch assembly and components are made by Alps, not GM. They paid for Japanese quality and got… this.
@@emmettturner9452 I bought two and the first one I sold. The other one is a 2001 with 125,150 miles has all types of nagging problems ( not major ) but their a pain because of faulty engineering including
cheaply made seating,
stuck manual window crank
drooping headliner
worn sliding door assemblies
Etc,etc, great engine and transmission though.
@@johnalexander4940 Yeah. The engine and transmission were engineered in Japan too. You win some, you lose some, even when contracting to world-renowned I guess. :) GM does have some explaining to do on their part. I’ve always wondered how upholstery could still fail like that after decades of material design and engineering with observable real-world results. The gauge cluster stepper motor failures are pretty concerning too.