Eric, I think you could twist the mount on the tie rod up a bit to make sure it cant contact the wires. I dont think it would make that big of a difference in how much swivel there is, but the tie rods would limit the twist so the bracket cant contact the wires. Also, Ruffstuff has a bushing they call "the cure" which goes on the tie rods to limit roll. Not an ideal solution, but a solution that might work for your truck.
This is such a wonderful show !!!! I love it because you don't always go out and buy new parts, you either use used part's or you make it ! If everyone likes this show you will also like This N That Garage !
Hey Eric, with the hydraulic ram "and it's drag link mount" attached to the side of the drag link as it is, some swing may be inevitable as the drag link will want to rock back and forth on the ball joints due to the angle. Is there no way to attach the base of the ram to the frame of the truck "instead of the axel" directly over the drag link, and then place the drag link mount on the top side of the drag link instead of on the side? Reason I bring up the angle is if you watch closely, you can see the drag link bowing under the stress the ram is putting on it. I hope this helps in some way! 😊
Always a good day when I get to watch someone else working!! LOL!! Looks like you're getting a lot done on maintenance on the wrecker. She'll up and running in no time!!
You should use transmission fluid for power steering czz it thicker then regular power steering and works better in extreme heat and cold. You don't get that whining noise
On the clamp on the bar where the hydraulic steering arm attached you might be able to drill and tap for a bolt going through the clamp face and a short way into the bar it's attached to in the position you want it to stay in and use either lock tight or weld a tack to keep it in place.
Disconnect the wires, slide a clear rubber hose over them with a brass elbow at the pumpkin connection. Put suggested wire tab on pumpkin, attach rubber hose with wire inside possibly? Is ram correctly positioned splitting the difference of the rod? Is the passenger side tie rod ball socket walleyed out giving too much play?
My Rubicon Jeep with an elocker has a tab on a diff cover bolt to hold the wire in place. I would think you would want to add one to anchor that wire down so it does not get ripped off.
You could always go the cheap way and make a metal tab Drill a hole in it take one of the Front diff cover bolts out of the front cover and just bend it over and press the wires down .
-10 Oof! We got to -8 here in Kansas City! Below Zero is just friggin' cold, it doesn't matter how far below. So, regarding the wire for your e-locker... You could take a piece of angle iron and make a protective cover, which would use 2 (or 3) diff cover bolts to mount solid.
Sounds like time for the dry erase board to come out and punch list time! And what better time then when it's 10 below outside and you have a beautiful big warm shop! I'd kill for your shop! Great video, I think everyone loves watching you work on just about anything!
Eric, Do you think if you raised the tie rod mount on your cylinder up higher might prevent it from rotating? Or maybe move the whole cylinder more to the right toward the end of the tie rod. Just a suggestion. Yall stay warm up there, and keep the videos coming, we love them. 🦅😃
You're never going to stop the cylinder rocking, because you have 4 self aligning joints there. Just make sure that the clamp can't touch the wires with everything rotated down. Personally I don't like how hard that cylinder bottoms out.
the cylinder itself shouldnt move all that much. why not build a craddle bracket with a saddle for the cylinder to rest in as well as keep it from pushing down, if need be you could make it capture it to prevent up and down movement. if unsure what i mean let me know and ill draw it up for you. this could also be an issue of cylinder getting movement before gearbox therefore the assist is trying to do it all and gearbox is along for the ride. hope you get it solved, have a great day.
once you get another rig going you need to send the wrecker to robby Layton and have it get the King Fred treatment! I just realized how it used to look in your old videos
The twisting I'm seeing is the baljoint ends of your tierod but even a brand new one will flex. You're not driving that truck at hyway Speed, so it's not important.
Granged you could just have one of the girls film it.... you could also stick a wad of play doh by the locker wire and see how much the ram digs into it to give you an idea of clearances?
Hello, I pray you are all well. 😊😊😊😊 can't you just rotate the mount on Hydraulic cylinder where it mounts on steering rod clockwise so it is higher when rod is rotated counter clockwise, looking from passenger side toward driver side of rod, that should get bolt head further away from wire.
l'm still enjoying seeing you get to work in a decent shop, you and diesel creek have come a long way !
Eric, I think you could twist the mount on the tie rod up a bit to make sure it cant contact the wires. I dont think it would make that big of a difference in how much swivel there is, but the tie rods would limit the twist so the bracket cant contact the wires. Also, Ruffstuff has a bushing they call "the cure" which goes on the tie rods to limit roll. Not an ideal solution, but a solution that might work for your truck.
Good points, I agree. If the steering ram is parallel in height to the tie/steering rod it would be an improvement.
It looks like you may be able to rotate the clamp on the tie rod to fine tune the angle of the ram to the rod.
Glad to see the wrecker getting ready for spring.
When we cly. Type steering. To stop the cly. Flop set the tie rod ends opozing direction. So they lock some of tie rod twist.
Finally somebody that does cotter pins the way that I do.
This is such a wonderful show !!!! I love it because you don't always go out and buy new parts, you either use used part's or you make it ! If everyone likes this show you will also like This N That Garage !
Hey Eric, with the hydraulic ram "and it's drag link mount" attached to the side of the drag link as it is, some swing may be inevitable as the drag link will want to rock back and forth on the ball joints due to the angle. Is there no way to attach the base of the ram to the frame of the truck "instead of the axel" directly over the drag link, and then place the drag link mount on the top side of the drag link instead of on the side? Reason I bring up the angle is if you watch closely, you can see the drag link bowing under the stress the ram is putting on it. I hope this helps in some way! 😊
Always a good day when I get to watch someone else working!! LOL!! Looks like you're getting a lot done on maintenance on the wrecker. She'll up and running in no time!!
I love work, I could sit and watch it all day 😁
I love seeing more videos from you. Keep it up.
ATF can be used inplace of Power Steering fluid, it's done in some Toyota Models from the factory
You should use transmission fluid for power steering czz it thicker then regular power steering and works better in extreme heat and cold. You don't get that whining noise
I use it in all my 97 Jeep Cherokee and my 07 dodge police charger works great and keeps insides clean as it’s detergent based
On the clamp on the bar where the hydraulic steering arm attached you might be able to drill and tap for a bolt going through the clamp face and a short way into the bar it's attached to in the position you want it to stay in and use either lock tight or weld a tack to keep it in place.
Disconnect the wires, slide a clear rubber hose over them with a brass elbow at the pumpkin connection. Put suggested wire tab on pumpkin, attach rubber hose with wire inside possibly? Is ram correctly positioned splitting the difference of the rod? Is the passenger side tie rod ball socket walleyed out giving too much play?
My Rubicon Jeep with an elocker has a tab on a diff cover bolt to hold the wire in place. I would think you would want to add one to anchor that wire down so it does not get ripped off.
keep at it you'll get it -10 F is no fun at lease it's not a blizzard to go with it
You could always go the cheap way and make a metal tab Drill a hole in it take one of the Front diff cover bolts out of the front cover and just bend it over and press the wires down .
How about a wider bushing on the driver side tie rod end? One of those no-roll things. A half inch more clearance is enough.
February looking pretty good it going to be warm
-10 Oof! We got to -8 here in Kansas City! Below Zero is just friggin' cold, it doesn't matter how far below. So, regarding the wire for your e-locker... You could take a piece of angle iron and make a protective cover, which would use 2 (or 3) diff cover bolts to mount solid.
Sounds like time for the dry erase board to come out and punch list time! And what better time then when it's 10 below outside and you have a beautiful big warm shop! I'd kill for your shop! Great video, I think everyone loves watching you work on just about anything!
Eric, Do you think if you raised the tie rod mount on your cylinder up higher might prevent it from rotating? Or maybe move the whole cylinder more to the right toward the end of the tie rod. Just a suggestion. Yall stay warm up there, and keep the videos coming, we love them. 🦅😃
You're never going to stop the cylinder rocking, because you have 4 self aligning joints there.
Just make sure that the clamp can't touch the wires with everything rotated down.
Personally I don't like how hard that cylinder bottoms out.
The old wrecker works very hard, so it has bumps and bruises. But it keeps on trucking.
the cylinder itself shouldnt move all that much. why not build a craddle bracket with a saddle for the cylinder to rest in as well as keep it from pushing down, if need be you could make it capture it to prevent up and down movement. if unsure what i mean let me know and ill draw it up for you. this could also be an issue of cylinder getting movement before gearbox therefore the assist is trying to do it all and gearbox is along for the ride. hope you get it solved, have a great day.
Looks like it flexes the tie rod too. Maybe beef it up to 1/4" thick DOM or even those solid aluminum bars
I wonder if you rotate the tie rod the other way it going then Mont the bracket if that would help some from twisting close to you elocker
Kansas now warming up the whole 1st of January in the the blizzard 🥶❄️ now we're getting 30s and 40s and 50s
Good luck, god speed 😊
once you get another rig going you need to send the wrecker to robby Layton and have it get the King Fred treatment! I just realized how it used to look in your old videos
Eric build a second bracket to hold the front of the ram so it can’t move and it won’t have a choice but to push straight out and back in straight
What if you bolted an angled steel bracket to the diff cover bolts to act as a protective hood over the wires?
love your videos wish they were a little longer
You need a neckers knob on the steering wheel.
Hey is there any way to add another band around the front and back of the leaf springs to keep the leafs from siding out
keep the clips coming
A nylon skid ontop of the diff housing Eric??
Axel mount for ram is too tall.. Redrill it level with the tie rod, youll get less deflection..
Put a shield over the wire ,steel guard
Eric can't You rotate the bracket on Passenger side towards back? God Bless
Hey bsf recovery
Every Chevy truck I've seen the tie rods twist when you turn if Thay don't turn it will brake
The twisting I'm seeing is the baljoint ends of your tierod but even a brand new one will flex. You're not driving that truck at hyway Speed, so it's not important.
when are you going to finish the Jeep Gladiator?
Eric, please don't turn away from the camera/mic when you're talking. I can barely hear you though my volume is 100 percent.
Granged you could just have one of the girls film it.... you could also stick a wad of play doh by the locker wire and see how much the ram digs into it to give you an idea of clearances?
Is it time to just go full hydro?
Have you thought about calling PSC and see what they think?
Eric just 4 link it
After all these you'd think you wouldn't be surprised by the camera and lighting you just set up.
👋
Gday guys
What is say about Kansas weather all the time you blink your eyes be something
Hello, I pray you are all well. 😊😊😊😊 can't you just rotate the mount on Hydraulic cylinder where it mounts on steering rod clockwise so it is higher when rod is rotated counter clockwise, looking from passenger side toward driver side of rod, that should get bolt head further away from wire.
Hi there
Wrecker used to look sharp! She could use some new lipstick Eric!!!
Random comment
Looks good 👀😜👀😜😜😜😜😜😜😜👀😜😜😜👀👀😜😜👀👀😜😜😜
I quit watching your channel, because you have a members only page.
Boo-hoo... NOBODY GIVES A F*** ABOUT YOUR OPINION KICK ROCKS