Hi Terry, I live on a farm and tree cutting is a necessary task most years. But because it is only occasional, we lack the experience that regular chainsaw users would have. However, you presentations have provided top class information and instruction in techniques and safety when working. The level of awareness such presentations create cannot be overestimated.... it's should not be considered 'dramatic' to believe that your videos have saved people from injury, or worse. Thank you, and I wish you every success in all that you do. Greetings from Ireland!
Thanks Terry, I've been cutting trees with a chainsaw since I was actually paid by a friend of my parents, to come and work afternoons during the winter, when I was 11 or 12 years old. I'm now 66, and I never knew about using a boring technique properly until I saw this video! Thanks for teaching an old dog a new trick!
Watched your felling videos about 2 years ago and h have seen many since but yours are the ones I come back to for review. Thank you Terry for educating in a clear no frills way!
Nice presentation. Clear explanation of the 'physics' and danger involved with tree felling. I've been a lucky old fool in the past and dodged a few bullets, but it's never too late to learn. Thanks!
As a newbee, I really appreciate the calm technical style of these videos. Makes feel a bit braver about trying out some of the techniques. Thanks Terry
Hi Terry, I was directed here from another video about cutting leaning trees and am I glad I came. Your explantions and diagrams are clear and concise, and the practical demonstration showed in a controlled manner thank you very much for taking the time in making this. I have a thirteen stemed laurel to fell and clear for a friend and all the trunks although reasonable small are severly leaning so your explanation on a diagonal plunge cut has shown me the way. Many thanks Nigel - West Wales
Your videos are excellent and will remain a part of my tool set for staying alive when felling trees. Also, this was one of the best illustrations of the stresses which lead to barber-chairing.
As a typical homestead owner, these videos have taught me not to take on the big stuff. I now know my limitations and will avoid a lot of heartache. I'll leave the big or difficult stuff to the big boys. Thanks Terry.
Thank you very much, Terry, for all the tree felling vids. They're all very clear and well explained. We're removing a couple dozen sick poplars. They're about 35-40 years old and these things grow large pretty quickly! Some of them lean as much as 45 degrees. Two years ago, my employer made the mistake of using a normal back cut and got hit by such a split and kick back. His upper leg was severely injured and needed care and drains for months. Luckily it's good now and all that remains is a foot long scar. So now I'm studying how to cut the rest of them safely. You've definitely helped me a lot to achieve that goal. Thanks, life bless you!
Hi Trip. Really sorry to hear about your employer's experience. Good luck with your leaning poplars. I hope you have plenty of other tree species there, as well. "Our" beavers love poplar, so I bring them a bunch of branches every Fall to put in their winter larder. The tremuloides and grandidentata we have here make for lousy firewood. They're heavy and wet when harvested, but dry to be fairly light and burn up quickly. I could pardon those faults, but I also dislike the smell of their smoke. Rotting in the woods, however, they go through a phase where they have a pleasant citrus-like smell.
Algebra, geometry and trig would have been so much fun in school if we had used your application!! Love the videos. Very good info and safety conscience. Thank you.
Also I learned about you from the Morgan's video. He spoke very highly of you. Now I see why. My sons and I are cleaning up a very wooded lake lot. We hired some large trees to be cut; however, I've been cutting the small ones. Your info is great!
Next to buckin Billy you guys do a great job of explaining felling trees... I'm just a guy that heats our home with wood and help my buddies maintain their properties so in try to gain as much knowledge from guys like y'all so I can stay safe and enjoy my chainsaws... thank you for sharing your knowledge on here
I’ve seen several of these videos by you Terry. Thanks for not being Mr. Macho and bragging about how good you really are (and you are good) Clear, to the point and more informative than anyone else I’ve seen. The physics are AMAZING in all your videos. You are one who truly understands. I’ve been felling and bucking for years, working in Disaster Relief and for myself. I appreciate your no-nonsense approach. Yet, you do add an odd humor that I really appreciate. Hope I get to meet or work with you some day. And thanks again for all you do.
I serve as a volunteer. It’s an International effort and lots of fun. Lots of laps and tricky situations. We do stabilization so others can enter areas safely. Thankfully, we do have cranes, bucket trucks and other equipment for many widow makers. Still, there’s a few that are sketchy. I’ve enjoyed you rope techniques, pulling forces, etc. I had a friend killed just 2 years ago when he wouldn’t listen to me about felling. My brother/in-law broke his neck performing unsafe techniques and suffered many complications for years until his death. Recently, an experienced colleague (professional tree service with his own company and close to 45 years experience) did something stupid with a ladder just 2 weeks ago. Now he’s a quadriplegic. You may be helping more than you know. You, too, keep up the good work.
Thanks for making this video public and allowing us to watch it. I watch training videos every year before I start cutting to bone up on my technique. This is the best training video I have ever seen, and I have seen hundreds, however, it scares me a little that some of the general public may watch cutting videos and think they are a professional and get in trouble. A seasoned cutter with over 30 years experience cut a tree which fell on top of another tree, bending it severely in a huge bow. Since they were at near perpendicular angles, the cutter cut the bottom tree to let the larger tree continue to fall. It barber chaired so fast he did not have a chance. Unfortunately it took his head completely off his body, and I was told they found his head over a hundred feet from the tree. It was near Bargersville, Indiana many years ago. I always remember that incident and tell my customers that story if they have a leaner and if they don't hire me, at least hire another professional cutter.
Thanks Kenny. I understand your concern about some people undertaking a hazardous activity without understanding the risks they will be encountering. A few people have vast, unwarranted confidence and will undertake something they know is dangerous without trying to learn anything about it first. Cutting videos have no role in the outcome. A few people are going to go ahead and undertake something dangerous, but will try to learn something about it first. Hopefully they can learn enough from cutting videos that they won't have a disaster. Chalk one up for cutting videos. A few people will have been thinking about undertaking something dangerous, but, after watching some cutting videos, they realize it may be more dangerous than they had thought and decide to hire a pro. Chalk another one up for cutting videos. A few people may have been thinking it was probably too dangerous to undertake the work, but, after after watching some cutting videos, they decide it's not too dangerous, go ahead and have a disaster because they didn't learn enough about dangers and how-to from their "studies". Boo for the cutting videos.
@@terryhale9006 It's been two years since I've watched this video, & I have re-watched it a few times. You are a great instructor and I love your style and approach. I wish you lived in Indiana, I'd take you out to eat sometime. I have since gotten involved in disaster recovery with the Southern Baptist Disaster Relief Indiana Chainsaw teams doing volunteer work to help others through FEMA, Homeland Security, local EMA's, and others. Having worked with them this past year on 3 hurricane trips, (North Carolina & Florida twice), they have noticed my work habits, safety procedures, and methodical process of removing storm damaged tress. I have also worked a few tornado recoveries with them in Indiana. Since then, they have asked me to teach a basic chainsaw safety class. I have mixed feelings about the liability of this, but at the same time, if in my sharing of knowledge prevents one accident, then I'm willing to share some basic techniques that I have learned to stay safe. MY QUESTION TO YOU. May I share your TH-cam Video to a group of 10 people? This is all volunteer work, and I get zero dollars for teaching this class. In fact, my part time tree company is funding some material for this event in November 2019. I understand copyright laws a little, because I'm also a photography instructor, having taught kids in 4-H for over 20 years. I have had my pictures stolen & used illegally, so I respect people's hard work, such as yourself, and always give credit when using other's work, after I have gotten permission to use it. Please let me know via my email one way or another. kenny.wilkes@gmail.com
Terry, thank you for an excellent presentation. The combination of explanations and graphics is clear and very helpful. I appreciate the effort that you put into this video.
Absolutely excellent presentation and demonstration and handling of a critical danger in tree cutting. Nice to see you wearing a hardhat ! (first time in this series, things falling down from above is likely the biggest killer). Look up! look around ! maintain balance, be ready to move. Appreciate the effort you put into these vids. Excellent results.
Thanks Wry. I almost always wear a helmet when using a chain saw. Had a friend some 35 years ago who managed to get badly cut above his hairline when his saw tip found a second log. It would be hard for me to believe if he hadn't come to work with the bandages.
Brilliant solution for handling (relatively) small front leaners: a diagonal cut! I have lots of madrone trees, and there are many front leaners. A thousand thank youze!
Thank you for the detailed information. I will be watching more of your videos. Outdoors with the Morgans sent me here. I have woodcutting to do on a property that I bought. You may have prevented me from hurting myself with your videos. I love to learn from others over learning from mistakes.
wish i watched this 6months ago, i'm not a logger/faller/pro, just a everyday joe and cut one tree a year down for the firepit.. the last tree i cut down had a 100' deadfall leaning against it... it was literally bent over like a banana, when she barbered i panicked pulled the saw out and almost cut my leg off.. its insane how much damage a saw can do to someones leg..i got very lucky i had someone with first aid with me that day. great training video! i may try a leaner one day again now. cheers
Larry, So sorry to hear of your mishap. I hope it has not disabled you in any way. Good thing you had someone with you. You can lose a lot of blood in a hurry if the chainsaw wants it. I periodically remind myself, "Flesh and bone cuts a lot quicker than pine."
Leave the saw. No saw costs more than a hospital bill, nor as painful as losing as a leg. Turn and run. Consider the cost of the saw as something disposable.
I wish someone would do a video just on positioning of the notch and how it can "help" direct the fall. My Dad was a lineman for many years and worked in the woods when he was younger. He told me about a tree that fell partially on a powerline. The line was partially supporting the tree so they couldn't drop the line and then cut it and let it go. They couldn't get boom over it to pick it up. He cut the notch and did the back cut so the tree rolled sideways off the line and l and land parallel to line and never damaged the line. I never had the occasion to have him explain what he did. Unfortunately his memory files are locked away with no key. Lesson: talk and listen to the old guys before all this knowledge is gone forever. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
As usual, Terry, precise, and very well explained. As far as the name "barber chair", I understand it comes from the tipping action of such a chair, which sends your head down, and your feet up. So the tree's head (or crown) goes down, and its feet (stump end) go up! Thanks for another great video. Ignore the putzes ragging you...
Very good video thank you Terry, was watching a Outdoors with the Morgans video this morning. Before he cut his leaner tree he put a chain around the trunk about 3 feet above his cuts. The chain was about 3/8 of an inch. Starting to cut our firewood in New Zealand now
I have a similar chain for a similar purpose. Nice to have, but I have never felt the need to resort to it. (Most of my trees are pretty well behaved.) I actually got it for those cases where I might be concerned about a split developing in a tree where I would be climbing well above the ground and jumping out of the way would be a bad option.
Terry, Thank you for taking the time to make such an informative video! I just ran across your TH-cam channel from a suggestion from another channel. This video is excellent! I’ve subscribed and will be spending much time watching your other videos. I have many trees that I need to cut down and several pose a challenge! Leaners, Top weighted, and Dead Trees just to mention a few. Recently through an experience I’ve found the dead trees can be very tricky! Dead wood doesn’t react the same as live timber. If you have any experience with dead tree felling I’m all ears & eyes! Thanks again for the great informative video!
Rich, You are, unfortunately, very right about dead trees being more dangerous and unpredictable to work with. Cuts that would be reasonably safe to make with a healthy tree can prove dangerous with a dead or rotted tree. I wish I could offer some helpful rules of thumb for how to deal with them, but "be careful" and "expect the unexpected" don't cut it.
Nah. They were in my to fell area and three of them were one on top of the other, rootballs and all. there are a couple of heavy leaners that are partially uprooted so I wanted to brush up with your recommendations. plus I'm retired now so all the time in the world.@@terryhale9006
I enjoy your video, my experience with cutting trees that are leaning and depending on the types of tree it is? Especially cedar's are suseptic for splitting up the trunks, is to stay consistent with the cut and follow through. The faster you are able to cut? It will be less likely to split up the trunk as quickly? I put the question mark in place because if your saw isn't very sharp,it won't cut as fast. Im not saying that only to see how fast you can cut, but yo have control over your cut. I hope this makes sense? The idea is that you want to make accurate cuts and stay alert and stay in the back cut as much as possible to ensure that the fiber's are cut quickly. If you are unsure if it will split then use safety and use a chain or a strap or a rope and wrap the trunk of the tree so it won't split up the trunk and prevent possible injury
Thanks Terry. Just subscribed, something I haven't done before. Trained and qualified as a Tree Feller here in Ireland 4 years ago, for small diameter trees (15"). As I am a gardener foremost, I don't fell that often, and find myself forgetting details. I really like your slow, methodical style. Some people might not get it, but as you have illustrated, chainsaw work with trees is REALLY dangerous, if handled incorrectly. I always felt uncomfortable with saw in hand until AFTER I qualified, then I realized that that feeling was self preservation.... Not many people fell for firewood here, so we don't have so many people with lots of experience (but sometimes) little knowledge. Guys, even if you are experienced, but unqualified, it is worth going to take a course. My training course was a week long, with an onsite exam the following week. Usually the guys attending and teaching the course are great fun to be with, so there is great camaraderie, as well knowledge and experience. You make some good contacts too. Here in Ireland (and the UK) the basic course is industry recognized and called CS 30 + CS31 (City and Guilds), it also covers chainsaw maintenance. Sometimes just the knowledge of why something happens they way it does, makes all the difference to a future felling. Stay safe!
+Nicholas Bower Thanks Nick. I consider myself purely to have been lucky never to have had a chain saw injury. I know two people who did and both events were quite sobering. I wish similar courses and certifications were readily available here. Instead, there is too much of a male macho thing at work. "I'm a guy, so I should have an innate knowledge of how to do this manly thing." (Generates a fair number of manly accidents.)
Terry - Excellent video - I would like to pass on to others a tool I bought to assist with felling leaners. smaller treas , trees fallen into other trees - I bought an 8" battery powered chain saw with extensions. The extensions keep you farther from the cutting action and applying all the proper cuts, safety rules etc.. it certainly makes me feel safer cleaning my wooded forest.
Terry, hope you are well. I learned recently (somewhat by mistake) that an open face helps prevent barberchair. I posted a video on my channel showing a someone else’s ‘chair that kind of demonstrates it.
Thanks, Brian. My fear is that the people who really need such information are the same people who would not make an attempt to seek it out...from any source.
The chair part of the stump is obvious but the barber part is because you could get you hair or head taken off if you're not ready. Great series! Thank you so much. New sub!
Thanks for the great and detailed info. We had a substantial birch (25") which leaned heavily. We hired the job out. The guy didn't have a clue what he was doing, tree split massively, fast and suddenly (just as you explained). Took him a lot of dangerous work to get it to the ground afterwards. I'm glad he didn't get injured.
Just felled a 65-ish degree leaner with this technique. Although I wish I had a better escape route (on a hill around water), the cut went smooth. Thank you!
First I would like to say that this is one of the best explained tree felling videos on TH-cam, and for the most part would tell others about this video and/ or channel. Now for the dirt... One, when cutting the red oak it didn't look like you had a face cut; that would cause the barber chair in any leaning tree. Also when you where talking about the growth if the tree its called phototropism (big scary word) sorry I digress. Then I've always made my face cuts deeper with leaners (if holding wood is available) about half way through the tree. Unless lean is 45°or greater then 1/4 OPEN face cut then bore-in-cut. Always start with your horizontal cut (unless open face cut) if anything put a wedge in as you cut. Makes using gunning sites easier especially if direction of fall is important not to cause damage.
good explanation and graphics illustrating the physics in play. I've been felling for over 25 years, and have tried to explain barbers chairs to people -- i will use your video in the future. I recently took down a 36" alder with severe lean and loads of ivy on it. Plunge cut and set up the trigger and all went safely and according to plan. If I can offer one point of critique, please wear chaps. A relatively small investment in critical safety gear and great example for less experienced operators. It is a MUST for anybody working with me. I have 3 sets and require it when teaching beginners.
Thanks, Skier. I actually have two set of chaps now and always wear one of them whenever I use a chain saw. I'm very lucky I've never had a situation where they would have proved their worth. You can't rely on past luck to protect you in the future.
@@terryhale9006 that's a good word, and glad to hear it. appreciate your willingness to receive a bit of feedback as we all have things we can learn. I didn't see chaps in this video, but glad to hear you use them. Again, really good video with great explanations and graphics. I think your work here will likely help a lot of people avoid unnecessary injuries, and with over 470k views I'm glad to see this important info getting out there. cheers!
Thank you sir. I loved the video. I plan on watching all of them, and sharing them with anybody else I know who cuts down trees. I see you climb and teach on that also very exciting, thanks for your time.
In a barber-chair, why must all of the finishing work be done at the trunk end? Cannot it be done on the top side working toward the trunk? Cutting all the branches, working toward the barber-chair? A novice asking.
PJ: A very good question. Your question is relevant to this particular instance. Be aware, however, that in many barber-chair incidents, the trunk does completely separate from the base and falls from height. In this particular instance, you are correct that many of the branches could be removed first. A problem would be the height of those branches. As a general rule, you want to avoid reaching up with a chain saw. The heavier the saw is, the worse the idea is.
I've seen that plunge cut made by fellers and wondered why on earth they were complicating the process. I knew a hinge that is too thick can barber chair, and until today had always considered it was important to make a deep enough face cut. This is awesome info for felling 201.
@@terryhale9006 awesome. Thank you for your reply. As a fraction or percentage of the diameter how deep can a face cut be, before becoming dangerous? From everything I have seen, it seems like wood fiber is pretty strong in tension, like you could hang most of a tree's weight on way less back wood than most believe. I realized where the hinge will end up is much more of a focus, than worrying about the backwood letting go, because of too deep of a face cut... does that make some sense?
@@jackfiercetree5205 Jack, there are a bunch of factors that are worth considering, such as how much the tree is leaning and which direction. If you're notching under the lean, you should keep it shallow to avoid the lean pinching and holding your saw. If you're cutting the notch on top of the lean, you should also keep it shallow as you will probably want to drive wedges to force the tree to fall opposite its lean. The longer the moment arm from the outside of the back cut to the hinge, the easier the wedges will be to drive. If the tree is pretty upright, it will be tolerant to quite a range of notch depths. With a large tree, making a deep notch requires a doing more cutting, so there is a slight time preference for keeping the notch down to something like 25 percent of the width. If you haven't seen it, I do have one video exclusively on "The Notch".
Solid tutorial, presented by a very knowledgeable and competent Arborist. Great diagrams, and explanations from a pleasant and soothing voice. Good job sir. You just got one more subscriber.
Martin, Thanks. Before you can watch many more, I will have to make them. I have been obsessively clearing to obtain a View West. Now that I have a window to the ridge behind us, I hope to make those videos. Terry
Very helpful indeed. A view west is preferable. both for sunsets and weather approaching. I live on 15 acres of land that my wife and I purchased in July. Its such a shame and regret to report to you that I have a great number of dead and dying Ash trees. Your guidence has made felling safe and the physics behind the cuts valid. I have some leaners that I am concerned about felling and won't wander out of my comfort zone. Your wisdom has translated to my knowledge of limits and established a comfort zone. For that I thank you. Please add Videos as you see fit. More info on leaners and "hang ups" onto other trees would be on my "Wish list." Best Regards, Sincerely, Martin Donahue
Martin, Thanks. Sorry to hear about your Ash trees. While I don't consider them especially beautiful, I really appreciate their wood and lots of animals appreciate their mast. Emerald Ash Borers responsible? Congratulations on your new property! Terry
So having created the trap, what did you do to get the tree down? Knowing nothing I'd have cut relatively small sections off the bottom of the trunk, starting at the cut end and working up, until I was clear of the fence, then cut the top of the barber's chair to drop the rest of the trunk to the ground. Would I have gotten myself killed? Nice clear explanation, by the way, and without all the unnecessary additional junk that many others throw into their videos.
Thanks. With a lot at stake, it's definitely good to think through the possibilities. Then again...some of the most interesting videos are posted by people who appear not to have bothered thinking things through.
Nice video and very educational for people who are just starting out and haven't learned this yet. On a side note chainsaws don't have blades they have chains 😉
Admittedly, I have not thought about this much, but to me "shear" is not the mechanism for a tree splitting (barbering). It seems to me that "peel" stress would be more appropriate, which would be akin to a tensile failure of the lignin perpendicular to the grain, initiating at the backcut and propagating up the tree. Regardless, I really appreciate these videos and have learned a lot. Thanks!
Very Useful Detailed Information. I have a strongly leaning pine that I wish to remove, as its threatening my neighbours garage, some 20 feet away. It is on to corner of a copse of trees, so all the branches are on one side. It's probably 12-18'' diameter. In addition several adjacent trees, inside the copse, have died, so the ground is now getting wet from rainfall, as the tree cover has effectively been removed. This has softened the ground, and the lean has recently increased. I intend to use a three ton dumper with a full bucket, with a combined weight of about 5-6 tons, with several 10 ft loading straps in series for an extended length pull, to put tension on the tree at 90 degrees to the line of fall. This is to ensure that it cannot fall in the opposite direction, onto my neighbours garage! Using a plunge cut will be my choice in this situation. I will also clear the area with my mini digger, and remove any of the dead trees close to the tree to be felled, before starting, so that I have a clear escape route. Your presentation has confirmed my plan of action. Thanks. .
I always assumed it was called barber chair because of the hydraulics of the chair that can send it rising up rapidly. I never thought of it past that. Learned something
The wedge cuts are severely undersized. The size of the wedge cut determines the strength of the hinge, which is a big safety issue. Also, when you get a barber chair, like the red oak example, there is a really simple process to dealing with it. You take a small cut off the part of the trunk sticking out into the air. This is only so that it cannot bind against the stump later. Then, go to the treetop and begin lightening. Take off weight, being wary of spring back, until the remaining portion rises. If you do so from the top down, rather than cutting main leaders off, the weight loss will be gradual and the spring back will happen gradually too. Removing large leaders is faster, but more risky. This way means that you never have to cut into the strap under tension. This is WAY safer. Nobody is going to outrun a spring.
Christian, unfortunately, I have to disagree with just about everything you have stated. First, with most leaners, it would be foolish to try to make a normally sized wedge cut, as you risk getting your bar solidly pinched. Second, The strength of the hinge is not solely determined by its width, though width is a function of the depth of the wedge cut. The strength of the hinge is important primarily for preventing the tree from falling sideways. If it doesn't have significant side lean, the width of the hinge loses importance. Third, you assume incorrectly that the tree will spring back up as weight is removed. Even in the case where the tree does begin to rise, it can rise to where it is out of reach for any further removals, but the trunk will still be highly sprung. Fourth, while I agree that it is not wise to plan on outrunning a barber chair, it is not true that, "Nobody is going to outrun a spring." It depends on how fast the spring is. In the video, I was anticipating a slow barber chair "spring", so I felt confident backing away. Other "springs" have definitely been fast enough to kill people and some have, in fact, killed people.
@@terryhale9006 you don't have to agree. I worked as an arborist for several years, and the company I was with specialized in high risk removals. A leaner like that is the tame end of the spectrum. Neither I, not the guy that trained me either had a safety incident. We were good because we were careful. Considering that most of my part of the work was done high in the air, "out of reach" wasn't something I really worried about.
Hi Terry. I am a new subscriber and enjoy what I have seen so far in your series. A little nomenclature if I may -- The individual who brings down the tree is the faller, though he felled the tree. You could say woodsman, or something akin to that, if you like. The long, thin front part of a chainsaw is a bar, as in guide bar. Sorry, there is no blade on a chain saw.
Something none of the videos about leaners is addressing is how to prevent the outside of the tree from splitting off and pulling up chunks of the root from under you when you're cutting away the back cut from the plunge cut. Maybe it's only a problem in bigger trees, or the ones that often have a lot of damage in the buttresses like Western Redcedar?
@@zandemen Doesn't always work that way. I had a heavy leaning red alder to cut down, 25-35° lean. After facing it I plunge cut it and after only cutting just less than half of the holding wood the stump split down and the back half of the roots came up with my saw trapped in the tree. I still had 6-8 inches of holding wood on my trigger. Soft ground, shallow roots and a root rot defect caused the tree to split quickly. Fortunately the tree didn't roll on my saw and crush it and I swiftly used my escape route to a safe distance although the roots nearly tripped me as the surged out of the ground.
Starting at 9:24 your diagram of the bar initiating and then plunging through the tree is with the pushing chain (top of the bar) facing to the LEFT. The plunge done this way, places most of the front handle facing the ground and out of the fallers reach. Instead, if I do my plunge with the pushing chain (top of the bar) to my right, the entire front handle is now available. I also like plunging for my hinges with the top of the bar to my right because if I get a rotational kick back, the bar is thrown away from me. Plunging with the top of the bar to my left places my body more in the arc of the rotational kick back and thus closer to bodily contact with my saw.
Your point would be especially well taken for those harvesting for lumber, where you want to get length out of the trunk. Cutting for firewood, I usually take my felling cut at a convenient height and then get the stump as a separate cut. In most cases, I probably would have the front handle up, but I wasn't even thinking about orientation when I was trying to make the illustration.
Wonderful video, Terry. At 5:28 you talk about your plan to "nibble in from the sides" to take the tree down. Can you explain what you mean there? I've got a tree in a similar state and I'm trying to figure out how to take it down safely.
What's left of the stem is highly sprung. If you try to simply cut through it, depending on what part you try, you might get your bar tightly pinched. If you cut from the inside to the outside, you risk having the wood suddenly spring free. (Years ago, I was in a big hurry and tried doing that. It happened so fast I didn't even see it. All I heard was what sounded like a very close rifle shot. The stem slapped up, pulling the split part of the tree down. They slapped together about 18 inches from my ear. My hands were right where they had been when I was holding the saw, but it was gone. I found it, still running, about 20 feet away in the bushes. No injuries whatsoever, but WHAT a lesson.) Nibbling in is the process of using your saw to chew the wood away just like a beaver would; leaving a broad V so you can watch closely to see how the wood is reacting. It's best to be able to learn from the mistakes of others.
If there was any doubt about the lean, rot or insect damage, why would you not use the correct techniques, but in addition, chain up the trunk above the cut?
I have av25 inch leaning white oak. The crown has all these branches going out in all sorts of odd angles. It is hard to see how it will fall. Also there are a bunch of dead branches that will likely rain down.an ideal tree to hire out.
i thought the feller deliberately creates a barber chair to relax between felling since it is hard work, LOL. I watch so many videos trying to find out where the term came from and this is the best.
Hallelujah! No background music; a serious teaching video. Thanks.
Ain’t that the truth. If the content is good then music is just a distraction.
Yes Yes. I hate to watch a video to learn something and can't hear a word because of Extra loud BONG music in the background. Really stupid.
I hear nature's music 🎵 🎶
@@kevinbello3020 at 14:28
Hi Terry, I live on a farm and tree cutting is a necessary task most years. But because it is only occasional, we lack the experience that regular chainsaw users would have. However, you presentations have provided top class information and instruction in techniques and safety when working. The level of awareness such presentations create cannot be overestimated.... it's should not be considered 'dramatic' to believe that your videos have saved people from injury, or worse.
Thank you, and I wish you every success in all that you do.
Greetings from Ireland!
Thank you very much, Paul. Keeping people safe was indeed my motivation.
Same situation. People like us are probably responsible for the vast majority of accidents lol
One of the greatest demo's I seen of the barber chair. I hope it prevents injury. God Bless
+Wes Razz Thanks Wes. My hope as well.
Love the clear and calm exposition of the dangers of felling leaners and how to mitigate these. Great work.
I wonder how he safely got the tree on the floor once it had barber chaired?
Very carefully 🤓🤣
Thanks Terry, I've been cutting trees with a chainsaw since I was actually paid by a friend of my parents, to come and work afternoons during the winter, when I was 11 or 12 years old. I'm now 66, and I never knew about using a boring technique properly until I saw this video! Thanks for teaching an old dog a new trick!
Old dog to old dog, you're welcome.
Watched your felling videos about 2 years ago and h have seen many since but yours are the ones I come back to for review. Thank you Terry for educating in a clear no frills way!
Best graphical illustrations of tree felling dangers I have seen so far.
Nice presentation. Clear explanation of the 'physics' and danger involved with tree felling. I've been a lucky old fool in the past and dodged a few bullets, but it's never too late to learn. Thanks!
Richard Freeberg Thanks Richard. Here's to lucky learning experiences.
As a newbee, I really appreciate the calm technical style of these videos. Makes feel a bit braver about trying out some of the techniques. Thanks Terry
Thanks, Mike. I hope things go well for you.
Terry, Your whole series is excellent. Thank you. I am certain that you have saved a lot of people major grief and injury. Thanks again.
Hi Terry, I was directed here from another video about cutting leaning trees and am I glad I came. Your explantions and diagrams are clear and concise, and the practical demonstration showed in a controlled manner thank you very much for taking the time in making this. I have a thirteen stemed laurel to fell and clear for a friend and all the trunks although reasonable small are severly leaning so your explanation on a diagonal plunge cut has shown me the way.
Many thanks Nigel - West Wales
Great! Thanks for the feedback and best wishes on a safe execution.
Your videos are excellent and will remain a part of my tool set for staying alive when felling trees. Also, this was one of the best illustrations of the stresses which lead to barber-chairing.
Thank you, Sir. I hope you'll have the opportunity to make someone else's tree-felling experience a safe one.
Thank you for the great Info Terry. I appreciate the in depth explanations, the diagrams, and you taking the time to put these videos together.
Thanks!
Absolute best content on TH-cam. Thanks Mr Hale...
Thank you, Craig.
As a typical homestead owner, these videos have taught me not to take on the big stuff.
I now know my limitations and will avoid a lot of heartache.
I'll leave the big or difficult stuff to the big boys.
Thanks Terry.
Thanks, Ed. I hope you can really enjoy your homestead!
Thank you very much, Terry, for all the tree felling vids. They're all very clear and well explained.
We're removing a couple dozen sick poplars. They're about 35-40 years old and these things grow large pretty quickly! Some of them lean as much as 45 degrees. Two years ago, my employer made the mistake of using a normal back cut and got hit by such a split and kick back. His upper leg was severely injured and needed care and drains for months. Luckily it's good now and all that remains is a foot long scar.
So now I'm studying how to cut the rest of them safely. You've definitely helped me a lot to achieve that goal. Thanks, life bless you!
Hi Trip. Really sorry to hear about your employer's experience.
Good luck with your leaning poplars. I hope you have plenty of other tree species there, as well. "Our" beavers love poplar, so I bring them a bunch of branches every Fall to put in their winter larder. The tremuloides and grandidentata we have here make for lousy firewood. They're heavy and wet when harvested, but dry to be fairly light and burn up quickly. I could pardon those faults, but I also dislike the smell of their smoke. Rotting in the woods, however, they go through a phase where they have a pleasant citrus-like smell.
Algebra, geometry and trig would have been so much fun in school if we had used your application!! Love the videos. Very good info and safety conscience. Thank you.
Also I learned about you from the Morgan's video. He spoke very highly of you. Now I see why. My sons and I are cleaning up a very wooded lake lot. We hired some large trees to be cut; however, I've been cutting the small ones. Your info is great!
@@jordandkfj Thank, Darla. I hope everything goes well for you.
I wish they could teach all those subjects as practical problems. Math would seem so much more relevant to needs one might experience as an adult.
Next to buckin Billy you guys do a great job of explaining felling trees... I'm just a guy that heats our home with wood and help my buddies maintain their properties so in try to gain as much knowledge from guys like y'all so I can stay safe and enjoy my chainsaws... thank you for sharing your knowledge on here
I’ve seen several of these videos by you Terry. Thanks for not being Mr. Macho and bragging about how good you really are (and you are good) Clear, to the point and more informative than anyone else I’ve seen. The physics are AMAZING in all your videos. You are one who truly understands. I’ve been felling and bucking for years, working in Disaster Relief and for myself. I appreciate your no-nonsense approach. Yet, you do add an odd humor that I really appreciate. Hope I get to meet or work with you some day. And thanks again for all you do.
Thanks much, Rick, and bless you for your disaster relief work. It's unfortunate there is so much opportunity to participate in those efforts.
I serve as a volunteer. It’s an International effort and lots of fun. Lots of laps and tricky situations. We do stabilization so others can enter areas safely. Thankfully, we do have cranes, bucket trucks and other equipment for many widow makers. Still, there’s a few that are sketchy. I’ve enjoyed you rope techniques, pulling forces, etc. I had a friend killed just 2 years ago when he wouldn’t listen to me about felling. My brother/in-law broke his neck performing unsafe techniques and suffered many complications for years until his death. Recently, an experienced colleague (professional tree service with his own company and close to 45 years experience) did something stupid with a ladder just 2 weeks ago. Now he’s a quadriplegic. You may be helping more than you know. You, too, keep up the good work.
You give a really solid explanation of the physics of what’s going on. I’ve watched the videos and been able to improve my tree felling. Thanks!
This was a phenomenal educational video. Thank you.
Thanks!
bul 955. Carter pilaf
bul ça ter pilaf 955
finally someone who knows what they're talking about
THANK YOU.
GOD BLESS YOU
Thanks, are you from NS by any chance
Terry, thank you for the great video! I love how you integrate actual science into your instruction!
Thank you, Kris!
Best film I’ve seen, truly a professional
Thanks for making this video public and allowing us to watch it. I watch training videos every year before I start cutting to bone up on my technique. This is the best training video I have ever seen, and I have seen hundreds, however, it scares me a little that some of the general public may watch cutting videos and think they are a professional and get in trouble. A seasoned cutter with over 30 years experience cut a tree which fell on top of another tree, bending it severely in a huge bow. Since they were at near perpendicular angles, the cutter cut the bottom tree to let the larger tree continue to fall. It barber chaired so fast he did not have a chance. Unfortunately it took his head completely off his body, and I was told they found his head over a hundred feet from the tree. It was near Bargersville, Indiana many years ago. I always remember that incident and tell my customers that story if they have a leaner and if they don't hire me, at least hire another professional cutter.
Thanks Kenny.
I understand your concern about some people undertaking a hazardous activity without understanding the risks they will be encountering.
A few people have vast, unwarranted confidence and will undertake something they know is dangerous without trying to learn anything about it first. Cutting videos have no role in the outcome.
A few people are going to go ahead and undertake something dangerous, but will try to learn something about it first. Hopefully they can learn enough from cutting videos that they won't have a disaster. Chalk one up for cutting videos.
A few people will have been thinking about undertaking something dangerous, but, after watching some cutting videos, they realize it may be more dangerous than they had thought and decide to hire a pro. Chalk another one up for cutting videos.
A few people may have been thinking it was probably too dangerous to undertake the work, but, after after watching some cutting videos, they decide it's not too dangerous, go ahead and have a disaster because they didn't learn enough about dangers and how-to from their "studies". Boo for the cutting videos.
@@terryhale9006 It's been two years since I've watched this video, & I have re-watched it a few times. You are a great instructor and I love your style and approach. I wish you lived in Indiana, I'd take you out to eat sometime.
I have since gotten involved in disaster recovery with the Southern Baptist Disaster Relief Indiana Chainsaw teams doing volunteer work to help others through FEMA, Homeland Security, local EMA's, and others. Having worked with them this past year on 3 hurricane trips, (North Carolina & Florida twice), they have noticed my work habits, safety procedures, and methodical process of removing storm damaged tress. I have also worked a few tornado recoveries with them in Indiana. Since then, they have asked me to teach a basic chainsaw safety class. I have mixed feelings about the liability of this, but at the same time, if in my sharing of knowledge prevents one accident, then I'm willing to share some basic techniques that I have learned to stay safe.
MY QUESTION TO YOU. May I share your TH-cam Video to a group of 10 people?
This is all volunteer work, and I get zero dollars for teaching this class. In fact, my part time tree company is funding some material for this event in November 2019.
I understand copyright laws a little, because I'm also a photography instructor, having taught kids in 4-H for over 20 years. I have had my pictures stolen & used illegally, so I respect people's hard work, such as yourself, and always give credit when using other's work, after I have gotten permission to use it.
Please let me know via my email one way or another. kenny.wilkes@gmail.com
You’re a very smart feller ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Thank you for taking all that time to prepare a quality instructional video! Well done, sir!
Thank you, Matt!
Terry, thank you for an excellent presentation. The combination of explanations and graphics is clear and very helpful. I appreciate the effort that you put into this video.
Thanks much, Michael.
Absolutely excellent presentation and demonstration and handling of a critical danger in tree cutting. Nice to see you wearing a hardhat ! (first time in this series, things falling down from above is likely the biggest killer). Look up! look around ! maintain balance, be ready to move. Appreciate the effort you put into these vids. Excellent results.
Thanks Wry. I almost always wear a helmet when using a chain saw. Had a friend some 35 years ago who managed to get badly cut above his hairline when his saw tip found a second log. It would be hard for me to believe if he hadn't come to work with the bandages.
Brilliant solution for handling (relatively) small front leaners: a diagonal cut! I have lots of madrone trees, and there are many front leaners. A thousand thank youze!
Thanks, Brian. Good luck with your trees. Wish we had some madrones around here.
Thank you for the detailed information. I will be watching more of your videos. Outdoors with the Morgans sent me here. I have woodcutting to do on a property that I bought. You may have prevented me from hurting myself with your videos. I love to learn from others over learning from mistakes.
Er. Did He just get a tree from one side of a fence to the other? without touching the fence?
A Master at work! Brilliant! Have a sub ☺
myster. E Jones @ mjones- I thought I was the only one who thought that! Genius I say - an “on purpose barber chair”??
wish i watched this 6months ago, i'm not a logger/faller/pro, just a everyday joe and cut one tree a year down for the firepit.. the last tree i cut down had a 100' deadfall leaning against it... it was literally bent over like a banana, when she barbered i panicked pulled the saw out and almost cut my leg off.. its insane how much damage a saw can do to someones leg..i got very lucky i had someone with first aid with me that day. great training video! i may try a leaner one day again now. cheers
Larry, So sorry to hear of your mishap. I hope it has not disabled you in any way. Good thing you had someone with you. You can lose a lot of blood in a hurry if the chainsaw wants it.
I periodically remind myself, "Flesh and bone cuts a lot quicker than pine."
Glad you're OK. Get yourself some chaps. CHEAP insurance.
Leave the saw. No saw costs more than a hospital bill, nor as painful as losing as a leg. Turn and run. Consider the cost of the saw as something disposable.
I wish someone would do a video just on positioning of the notch and how it can "help" direct the fall. My Dad was a lineman for many years and worked in the woods when he was younger. He told me about a tree that fell partially on a powerline. The line was partially supporting the tree so they couldn't drop the line and then cut it and let it go. They couldn't get boom over it to pick it up. He cut the notch and did the back cut so the tree rolled sideways off the line and l and land parallel to line and never damaged the line. I never had the occasion to have him explain what he did. Unfortunately his memory files are locked away with no key. Lesson: talk and listen to the old guys before all this knowledge is gone forever. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
simple and clear. Best video i've seen on that subject so far. Thank you!
As usual, Terry, precise, and very well explained. As far as the name "barber chair", I understand it comes from the tipping action of such a chair, which sends your head down, and your feet up. So the tree's head (or crown) goes down, and its feet (stump end) go up!
Thanks for another great video. Ignore the putzes ragging you...
I have fell trees for years and you provide an excellent tutorial. Just a word of caution to newbies. don't let your nevers control you.
Thanks, Vin!
Dang this was a good video. Now I'll have to watch all the other ones in this series in case they're as gold as this one.
Excellent, a physics approach along with discussion of internal damage. Well done!
Very good video thank you Terry, was watching a Outdoors with the Morgans video this morning. Before he cut his leaner tree he put a chain around the trunk about 3 feet above his cuts. The chain was about 3/8 of an inch. Starting to cut our firewood in New Zealand now
I have a similar chain for a similar purpose. Nice to have, but I have never felt the need to resort to it. (Most of my trees are pretty well behaved.) I actually got it for those cases where I might be concerned about a split developing in a tree where I would be climbing well above the ground and jumping out of the way would be a bad option.
Terry,
Thank you for taking the time to make such an informative video! I just ran across your TH-cam channel from a suggestion from another channel. This video is excellent! I’ve subscribed and will be spending much time watching your other videos. I have many trees that I need to cut down and several pose a challenge! Leaners, Top weighted, and Dead Trees just to mention a few. Recently through an experience I’ve found the dead trees can be very tricky! Dead wood doesn’t react the same as live timber. If you have any experience with dead tree felling I’m all ears & eyes!
Thanks again for the great informative video!
Rich, You are, unfortunately, very right about dead trees being more dangerous and unpredictable to work with. Cuts that would be reasonably safe to make with a healthy tree can prove dangerous with a dead or rotted tree. I wish I could offer some helpful rules of thumb for how to deal with them, but "be careful" and "expect the unexpected" don't cut it.
Love your presentations. Clear, concise, informed, understandable.
Thank you, RHaj.
Great educational video! I really appreciate the geometry explanations with graphics and basic mathematical formals! Thank you.
due to recent storms back looking at your excellent channel after a few years. hope you are well
Thank you, Doc. All things considered, I am happy with where I am. Sorry to hear that storms have brought you unneeded work.
Nah. They were in my to fell area and three of them were one on top of the other, rootballs and all. there are a couple of heavy leaners that are partially uprooted so I wanted to brush up with your recommendations. plus I'm retired now so all the time in the world.@@terryhale9006
I enjoy your video, my experience with cutting trees that are leaning and depending on the types of tree it is? Especially cedar's are suseptic for splitting up the trunks, is to stay consistent with the cut and follow through. The faster you are able to cut? It will be less likely to split up the trunk as quickly? I put the question mark in place because if your saw isn't very sharp,it won't cut as fast. Im not saying that only to see how fast you can cut, but yo have control over your cut. I hope this makes sense? The idea is that you want to make accurate cuts and stay alert and stay in the back cut as much as possible to ensure that the fiber's are cut quickly. If you are unsure if it will split then use safety and use a chain or a strap or a rope and wrap the trunk of the tree so it won't split up the trunk and prevent possible injury
Thank you Mr Hale..i sure appreciate you & your illustration vids.. Stay blessed sir! 🙏
Thanks Terry. Just subscribed, something I haven't done before. Trained and qualified as a Tree Feller here in Ireland 4 years ago, for small diameter trees (15"). As I am a gardener foremost, I don't fell that often, and find myself forgetting details. I really like your slow, methodical style. Some people might not get it, but as you have illustrated, chainsaw work with trees is REALLY dangerous, if handled incorrectly. I always felt uncomfortable with saw in hand until AFTER I qualified, then I realized that that feeling was self preservation....
Not many people fell for firewood here, so we don't have so many people with lots of experience (but sometimes) little knowledge. Guys, even if you are experienced, but unqualified, it is worth going to take a course. My training course was a week long, with an onsite exam the following week. Usually the guys attending and teaching the course are great fun to be with, so there is great camaraderie, as well knowledge and experience. You make some good contacts too. Here in Ireland (and the UK) the basic course is industry recognized and called CS 30 + CS31 (City and Guilds), it also covers chainsaw maintenance. Sometimes just the knowledge of why something happens they way it does, makes all the difference to a future felling. Stay safe!
+Nicholas Bower Thanks Nick. I consider myself purely to have been lucky never to have had a chain saw injury. I know two people who did and both events were quite sobering.
I wish similar courses and certifications were readily available here. Instead, there is too much of a male macho thing at work. "I'm a guy, so I should have an innate knowledge of how to do this manly thing." (Generates a fair number of manly accidents.)
I didn't know this training was hard to come by. You have so many people using saws, that there is a business for you right there...
Terry - Excellent video - I would like to pass on to others a tool I bought to assist with felling leaners. smaller treas , trees fallen into other trees - I bought an 8" battery powered chain saw with extensions. The extensions keep you farther from the cutting action and applying all the proper cuts, safety rules etc.. it certainly makes me feel safer cleaning my wooded forest.
Interesting. I know climbers are giving electrics a good try.
Terry, hope you are well.
I learned recently (somewhat by mistake) that an open face helps prevent barberchair. I posted a video on my channel showing a someone else’s ‘chair that kind of demonstrates it.
Excellent demonstration and explanation. Probably will save some lives.
Thanks, Brian. My fear is that the people who really need such information are the same people who would not make an attempt to seek it out...from any source.
The chair part of the stump is obvious but the barber part is because you could get you hair or head taken off if you're not ready. Great series! Thank you so much. New sub!
I like your explanation. (NOT going to do a visual for it, however!)
Very thorough explanation of the problem. Thanks
Thanks for the great and detailed info. We had a substantial birch (25") which leaned heavily. We hired the job out. The guy didn't have a clue what he was doing, tree split massively, fast and suddenly (just as you explained). Took him a lot of dangerous work to get it to the ground afterwards. I'm glad he didn't get injured.
I'm also glad he didn't get hurt. Hopefully, he now has some incentive to do some learning before his next "brush with death".
Just felled a 65-ish degree leaner with this technique. Although I wish I had a better escape route (on a hill around water), the cut went smooth. Thank you!
Glad it went well!
First I would like to say that this is one of the best explained tree felling videos on TH-cam, and for the most part would tell others about this video and/ or channel. Now for the dirt... One, when cutting the red oak it didn't look like you had a face cut; that would cause the barber chair in any leaning tree. Also when you where talking about the growth if the tree its called phototropism (big scary word) sorry I digress. Then I've always made my face cuts deeper with leaners (if holding wood is available) about half way through the tree. Unless lean is 45°or greater then 1/4 OPEN face cut then bore-in-cut. Always start with your horizontal cut (unless open face cut) if anything put a wedge in as you cut. Makes using gunning sites easier especially if direction of fall is important not to cause damage.
Good info. I just used the plunge cut technique on a leaner today. I didn't think to start the plunge cut at an angle - good to know!
good explanation and graphics illustrating the physics in play. I've been felling for over 25 years, and have tried to explain barbers chairs to people -- i will use your video in the future. I recently took down a 36" alder with severe lean and loads of ivy on it. Plunge cut and set up the trigger and all went safely and according to plan. If I can offer one point of critique, please wear chaps. A relatively small investment in critical safety gear and great example for less experienced operators. It is a MUST for anybody working with me. I have 3 sets and require it when teaching beginners.
Thanks, Skier. I actually have two set of chaps now and always wear one of them whenever I use a chain saw. I'm very lucky I've never had a situation where they would have proved their worth. You can't rely on past luck to protect you in the future.
@@terryhale9006 that's a good word, and glad to hear it. appreciate your willingness to receive a bit of feedback as we all have things we can learn. I didn't see chaps in this video, but glad to hear you use them. Again, really good video with great explanations and graphics. I think your work here will likely help a lot of people avoid unnecessary injuries, and with over 470k views I'm glad to see this important info getting out there. cheers!
One of the very best videos in its category.
Fantastic video Terry- clear and concise. Will view your other uploads. Thanks!
You're welcome and Thanks!
Well done! Great explanations. I have always referred to trunk cracks as banana cracks when they appear opposite the lean.
Thanks Corey.
Hadn't heard that used before. (Not that I hang out with a lot of other fellers.)
Thank you sir. I loved the video. I plan on watching all of them, and sharing them with anybody else I know who cuts down trees. I see you climb and teach on that also very exciting, thanks for your time.
Thanks, bf. Note that I'm definitely not an experienced climber.
Excellent and easily understood presentation. Thanks!
enjoyed the video...I've got some experience but am still fairly green for felling trees. TH-cam and this channel are now my best friends
Thanks Derek. Good to be cautious. Stay safe.
Nice explanation, demonstration, and graphics! Very well done! Thanks
+Bill N Thanks Bill.
I love the great information in this series. Thanks so much!
...and Thank You very much for your appreciation.
In a barber-chair, why must all of the finishing work be done at the trunk end? Cannot it be done on the top side working toward the trunk? Cutting all the branches, working toward the barber-chair? A novice asking.
PJ: A very good question. Your question is relevant to this particular instance. Be aware, however, that in many barber-chair incidents, the trunk does completely separate from the base and falls from height.
In this particular instance, you are correct that many of the branches could be removed first. A problem would be the height of those branches. As a general rule, you want to avoid reaching up with a chain saw. The heavier the saw is, the worse the idea is.
Wow! This man is Great!
Thank you Mr.Hale
Thank you for the video. Well explained, at a slow pace.
Thanks, Gustavo.
I've seen that plunge cut made by fellers and wondered why on earth they were complicating the process. I knew a hinge that is too thick can barber chair, and until today had always considered it was important to make a deep enough face cut. This is awesome info for felling 201.
Sometimes you can get away without using one, particularly on smaller, upright trees. Bigger or leaning trees really raise the stakes.
@@terryhale9006 awesome. Thank you for your reply. As a fraction or percentage of the diameter how deep can a face cut be, before becoming dangerous? From everything I have seen, it seems like wood fiber is pretty strong in tension, like you could hang most of a tree's weight on way less back wood than most believe. I realized where the hinge will end up is much more of a focus, than worrying about the backwood letting go, because of too deep of a face cut... does that make some sense?
@@jackfiercetree5205 Jack, there are a bunch of factors that are worth considering, such as how much the tree is leaning and which direction. If you're notching under the lean, you should keep it shallow to avoid the lean pinching and holding your saw. If you're cutting the notch on top of the lean, you should also keep it shallow as you will probably want to drive wedges to force the tree to fall opposite its lean. The longer the moment arm from the outside of the back cut to the hinge, the easier the wedges will be to drive. If the tree is pretty upright, it will be tolerant to quite a range of notch depths. With a large tree, making a deep notch requires a doing more cutting, so there is a slight time preference for keeping the notch down to something like 25 percent of the width. If you haven't seen it, I do have one video exclusively on "The Notch".
@@terryhale9006 it is so Awesome you give such detailed responses. A giant thank you in helping keep me safe out there. Merry Christmas.
@@terryhale9006 I will check out "the notch"
Thank you so much, Sir, for the excellent instructions!
Thank you, Vladimir!
Solid tutorial, presented by a very knowledgeable and competent Arborist. Great diagrams, and explanations from a pleasant and soothing voice. Good job sir. You just got one more subscriber.
Thanks, Jonathan. However, I can't claim to be an arborist, though I wish I could.
@@terryhale9006 well you are at least a reasonable facsimile. And I suspect the only thing separating you from the title is the testing and licensing
Thank you!
Great video, I subscribed and added this video to my favorites. I'm going to watch many more of your vids.
Martin,
Thanks. Before you can watch many more, I will have to make them. I have been obsessively clearing to obtain a View West. Now that I have a window to the ridge behind us, I hope to make those videos.
Terry
Very helpful indeed. A view west is preferable. both for sunsets and weather approaching. I live on 15 acres of land that my wife and I purchased in July. Its such a shame and regret to report to you that I have a great number of dead and dying Ash trees. Your guidence has made felling safe and the physics behind the cuts valid. I have some leaners that I am concerned about felling and won't wander out of my comfort zone. Your wisdom has translated to my knowledge of limits and established a comfort zone. For that I thank you. Please add Videos as you see fit. More info on leaners and "hang ups" onto other trees would be on my "Wish list."
Best Regards,
Sincerely,
Martin Donahue
Martin,
Thanks.
Sorry to hear about your Ash trees. While I don't consider them especially beautiful, I really appreciate their wood and lots of animals appreciate their mast. Emerald Ash Borers responsible?
Congratulations on your new property!
Terry
So having created the trap, what did you do to get the tree down? Knowing nothing I'd have cut relatively small sections off the bottom of the trunk, starting at the cut end and working up, until I was clear of the fence, then cut the top of the barber's chair to drop the rest of the trunk to the ground. Would I have gotten myself killed? Nice clear explanation, by the way, and without all the unnecessary additional junk that many others throw into their videos.
This is excellent, ty so much for making this
Thanks for your appreciation.
Such great videos. You've really helped me to develop a thought process before cutting. Thank you!
Thanks for the nice feedback!
Thanks. With a lot at stake, it's definitely good to think through the possibilities. Then again...some of the most interesting videos are posted by people who appear not to have bothered thinking things through.
Nice video and very educational for people who are just starting out and haven't learned this yet. On a side note chainsaws don't have blades they have chains 😉
Admittedly, I have not thought about this much, but to me "shear" is not the mechanism for a tree splitting (barbering). It seems to me that "peel" stress would be more appropriate, which would be akin to a tensile failure of the lignin perpendicular to the grain, initiating at the backcut and propagating up the tree.
Regardless, I really appreciate these videos and have learned a lot. Thanks!
Great information. I have a dead large leaning pine to take down. Your information will be helpful.
Very Useful Detailed Information.
I have a strongly leaning pine that I wish to remove, as its threatening my neighbours garage, some 20 feet away.
It is on to corner of a copse of trees, so all the branches are on one side. It's probably 12-18'' diameter.
In addition several adjacent trees, inside the copse, have died, so the ground is now getting wet from rainfall, as the tree cover has effectively been removed.
This has softened the ground, and the lean has recently increased.
I intend to use a three ton dumper with a full bucket, with a combined weight of about 5-6 tons, with several 10 ft loading straps in series for an extended length pull, to put tension on the tree at 90 degrees to the line of fall. This is to ensure that it cannot fall in the opposite direction, onto my neighbours garage!
Using a plunge cut will be my choice in this situation.
I will also clear the area with my mini digger, and remove any of the dead trees close to the tree to be felled, before starting, so that I have a clear escape route.
Your presentation has confirmed my plan of action.
Thanks.
.
I always assumed it was called barber chair because of the hydraulics of the chair that can send it rising up rapidly. I never thought of it past that. Learned something
The wedge cuts are severely undersized. The size of the wedge cut determines the strength of the hinge, which is a big safety issue.
Also, when you get a barber chair, like the red oak example, there is a really simple process to dealing with it. You take a small cut off the part of the trunk sticking out into the air. This is only so that it cannot bind against the stump later. Then, go to the treetop and begin lightening. Take off weight, being wary of spring back, until the remaining portion rises. If you do so from the top down, rather than cutting main leaders off, the weight loss will be gradual and the spring back will happen gradually too. Removing large leaders is faster, but more risky.
This way means that you never have to cut into the strap under tension. This is WAY safer. Nobody is going to outrun a spring.
Christian, unfortunately, I have to disagree with just about everything you have stated.
First, with most leaners, it would be foolish to try to make a normally sized wedge cut, as you risk getting your bar solidly pinched.
Second, The strength of the hinge is not solely determined by its width, though width is a function of the depth of the wedge cut. The strength of the hinge is important primarily for preventing the tree from falling sideways. If it doesn't have significant side lean, the width of the hinge loses importance.
Third, you assume incorrectly that the tree will spring back up as weight is removed. Even in the case where the tree does begin to rise, it can rise to where it is out of reach for any further removals, but the trunk will still be highly sprung.
Fourth, while I agree that it is not wise to plan on outrunning a barber chair, it is not true that, "Nobody is going to outrun a spring." It depends on how fast the spring is. In the video, I was anticipating a slow barber chair "spring", so I felt confident backing away. Other "springs" have definitely been fast enough to kill people and some have, in fact, killed people.
@@terryhale9006 you don't have to agree. I worked as an arborist for several years, and the company I was with specialized in high risk removals. A leaner like that is the tame end of the spectrum. Neither I, not the guy that trained me either had a safety incident. We were good because we were careful. Considering that most of my part of the work was done high in the air, "out of reach" wasn't something I really worried about.
Christian, you are totally correct on everything you have said, I have worked with tree cutting and felling for almost 40 years.
Hi Terry. I am a new subscriber and enjoy what I have seen so far in your series.
A little nomenclature if I may -- The individual who brings down the tree is the faller, though he felled the tree. You could say woodsman, or something akin to that, if you like.
The long, thin front part of a chainsaw is a bar, as in guide bar. Sorry, there is no blade on a chain saw.
+Michael Dougfir Just wait until you hear me calling roots "branches"!
Thanks for the good info it helps me a lot and you explain it too well.. thanks
Thanks, Larry. Glad to hear it.
Great video. Good information and very helpful to novice chain saw users as well as experienced uses.
Thanks, Bear. May the God of Injuries not notice you.
Fantastic, thank you for sharing your knowledge so articulately. Kind regards
Fantastic video! Great Teacher!
Thanks for the detailed information!
When will you talk about the technique on side-leaners of making the hinge thicker on the tension side? Thanks.
Thanks, I think I'll leave the learners to my apprentice!
Something none of the videos about leaners is addressing is how to prevent the outside of the tree from splitting off and pulling up chunks of the root from under you when you're cutting away the back cut from the plunge cut.
Maybe it's only a problem in bigger trees, or the ones that often have a lot of damage in the buttresses like Western Redcedar?
OK, I can't resist, spoiler alert! Leave a large enough trigger to support the tension load and then cut it from the outside.
Makes sense.
@@zandemen Doesn't always work that way. I had a heavy leaning red alder to cut down, 25-35° lean. After facing it I plunge cut it and after only cutting just less than half of the holding wood the stump split down and the back half of the roots came up with my saw trapped in the tree. I still had 6-8 inches of holding wood on my trigger. Soft ground, shallow roots and a root rot defect caused the tree to split quickly. Fortunately the tree didn't roll on my saw and crush it and I swiftly used my escape route to a safe distance although the roots nearly tripped me as the surged out of the ground.
@@kevinnoble5988 Yeah, alder is horrible, you could fall a 24" heavy leaner with a safety razor if you don't mind barber chairs.
Starting at 9:24 your diagram of the bar initiating and then plunging through the tree is with the pushing chain (top of the bar) facing to the LEFT. The plunge done this way, places most of the front handle facing the ground and out of the fallers reach. Instead, if I do my plunge with the pushing chain (top of the bar) to my right, the entire front handle is now available. I also like plunging for my hinges with the top of the bar to my right because if I get a rotational kick back, the bar is thrown away from me. Plunging with the top of the bar to my left places my body more in the arc of the rotational kick back and thus closer to bodily contact with my saw.
Your point would be especially well taken for those harvesting for lumber, where you want to get length out of the trunk. Cutting for firewood, I usually take my felling cut at a convenient height and then get the stump as a separate cut. In most cases, I probably would have the front handle up, but I wasn't even thinking about orientation when I was trying to make the illustration.
Awesome video. Very informative.
Wonderful video, Terry. At 5:28 you talk about your plan to "nibble in from the sides" to take the tree down. Can you explain what you mean there? I've got a tree in a similar state and I'm trying to figure out how to take it down safely.
What's left of the stem is highly sprung. If you try to simply cut through it, depending on what part you try, you might get your bar tightly pinched. If you cut from the inside to the outside, you risk having the wood suddenly spring free. (Years ago, I was in a big hurry and tried doing that. It happened so fast I didn't even see it. All I heard was what sounded like a very close rifle shot. The stem slapped up, pulling the split part of the tree down. They slapped together about 18 inches from my ear. My hands were right where they had been when I was holding the saw, but it was gone. I found it, still running, about 20 feet away in the bushes. No injuries whatsoever, but WHAT a lesson.) Nibbling in is the process of using your saw to chew the wood away just like a beaver would; leaving a broad V so you can watch closely to see how the wood is reacting.
It's best to be able to learn from the mistakes of others.
@@terryhale9006 Thanks, Terry. What a scary experience.
Excellent video! Well worth the time watching!
Thanks, Bob!
Thank you for this very instructive video! Great job!
Thanks!
That was a great instructional video.
Thanks, Coby.
If there was any doubt about the lean, rot or insect damage, why would you not use the correct techniques, but in addition, chain up the trunk above the cut?
Nicely explained,👍
Good clear information, thank you Terry👍
I have av25 inch leaning white oak. The crown has all these branches going out in all sorts of odd angles. It is hard to see how it will fall. Also there are a bunch of dead branches that will likely rain down.an ideal tree to hire out.
very clear, very correct, very helpful! great job sir!
i thought the feller deliberately creates a barber chair to relax between felling since it is hard work, LOL. I watch so many videos trying to find out where the term came from and this is the best.