Many people want to buy the same gear I use on my videos. Now I have an affiliate agreement with Husqvarna, and it is possible. Just follow this link: www.kqzyfj.com/click-101142111-15598737 ⛑ HELMET: Forest helmet, Technical 🦺 JACKET: Husqvarna high vis forest jacket, Technical Extreme 👖 TROUSERS: Husqvarna chainsaw trousers, Technical Extreme Arborist 👖 TROUSERS: Husqvarna chainsaw trousers, Technical Robust 🪚 CHAINSAW: Husqvarna 550 XP G Mark II 🪚 CHAINSAW: Husqvarna 560 XP G Mark II
Very cool. When I was very young saw my father do this but didn't know what it was. Thank you for the detail! My only criticism is all of the cut branch debris at the base while you were cutting. Dad taught me to clear area so if something starts to go bad I wouldn't trip getting out of the way.
I just felled a beast of a tree today, on a very steep slope. I made sure to keep it all clean, and to know exactly where I could escape to from each position around the tree. I.e., I fully agree!
I have used this several times. Even when it's not critical, it is great to be able to control the falling rate with the multiple hinges. Great technique.
If you compare it to a normal face cut where as soon as the acecut closes and the holding wood breaks, control of the tree is on its own. Using this technique, the layered hinges you create with the vertical cuts will hold longer and bend resulting in a longer, slower, more controlled felling of the stalk. In my limited experience, the longer you can control the stalk to the ground, the less risk to surrounding objects and the less turf damage. If you have a wide open area with nothing at risk of being g destroyed, this may be a waste of your time. It's definitely not for production driven jobs. Try it out. It's pretty enjoyable.
@@rickdebacker100 Longer/slower felling apt when your escape is not obstacle free. Llikely apt for a leaner I have in corner, juncture of 2 fences… wish plenty of time to escape. Also (guessing) guide ropes more effective on slower fell especially as some trunk rot adds an unknown, thus the guide-ropes for extra margin for error.
I really don't see a reason to waste time with this technique instead of just doing a bore cut and release from the back. You seem to be very good equipped, yet your surrounding area around the tree is not clean for your escape route. Therefore not how a professional should be teaching on TH-cam how to cut trees. Safety first inbthe woods
When it's crowded & messy like that... I take way more time cleaning up those potential paths to dodge into than I ever take dropping the actual tree 🌳 😂
I was looking for something like this because I have a tree that someone let grow into a building on my property. I can't cut on the backside of the tree because it's pushing the wall in. Its also leaning towards the building.
It doesn't make sense until you are faced with a situation that may require it, so you'd definitely want to practice it when you didn't need it,or walk away when you are faced with this situation and let someone else do the work,or come back at a later date with proper gear and machine@@АлександрИванов-и3ф2ы
What's the advantage of this technique, specifically with a back leaner, vs a traditional back cut with wedges and a line? It's not as if the traditional method is lacking in control.
I prefer back cut first on trees with a back lean. However this method appears to allow you to leave more holding wood so when you put your face cut in first the tree doesn't sit back on your saw when you start your back cut. So you cut up to that first vertical bore and wedge instead of cutting up to your traditional holding wood. When out there cutting, you don't always have a line available.
Interesting technique! But for heavy back-leaners. Why not save a "safe corner" and drive 2-3 wedges and then release the corner. Is this not a bigger risk to split "barberchair" when doing a back cut? 🙂
I was thinking the same thing. I don't cut trees for a living but as soon as I saw the back cut, I said to myself, that looks like a recipe for a barber chair.
Yeah, first thing I noticed, too. If something starts to go wrong and you need to get away from the tree in a hurry, that mess at the base of the tree could very easily trip you up (especially with snow on the ground) and you are suddenly at the mercy of where the tree decides to fall. Take the time to clean all around the tree, especially where you are cutting, and know exactly where you are going to get out of harm's way if things go south on you. What this man should have said instead of a snarky "Thank you" is "You are exactly right. I should have removed all the cut branches from around the base of the tree. Thank you for pointing that out to everybody." Cutting down large trees is inherently dangerous work. Anybody who posts videos on "how to do it" should do their best to show the correct and safest way from start to Finnish.
After my first barber chair experience, I now throw a logging chain around the trunk just above the cut making it impossible to split beyond the diameter of the chain placement.
The branches lying around in the working and escape area contradict all safety efforts. In the forest, this technique is economic nonsense. In built-up areas and near roads it may have its justification. Also, in dry or minimally rotten wood, it could still provide higher guidance in the desired direction.
What's the point if you're using a come a long anyway? Just leave a decent amount of hinge wood and pull it over. No need to make it more difficult than it needs to be. I personally can't see an advantage to using this style of cut when you're using something that's going to pull the tree the direction you're planning.
Interesting 🤔 Cant say I've ever seen those cuts before. How far back was the tree leaning? I take it the tree was roped up before you starting cutting? Looked pretty cool 😎
Pařez lze definovat jako část stromu (zpravidla bázi kmene), která zůstává zakotvena kořeny v zemi. Standardní výška pařezu by měla být 1/3 průměru káceného stromu (měřeno na řezu). V případě náročných terénních podmínek lze ponechat i pařez přiměřeně vyšší.
If you have to winch it vertical against the lean anyway, the extra cuts and hinges seem a waste of time. Wedges on the back cut and a winch would do the job anyway
Looks like quite a faff, and im left not being quite sure what the advantage was? Maybe i shouldn't be telling trees, but It looked to me as if the tree would have gone over quite nicely with a normal mouth cut.
neat looking but if the tree is being "pulled over" I'm not sure how this cut is specially designed to fell back leaning trees. either way it would appear that the wedge and whatever is hooked to the tree is overcoming the back lean, and not these vertical cuts. I could see this being useful for a tree with a questionable core. This could leave multiple hinge points where a single hinge might break earlier than anticipated if it wasn't solid in the middle.
I fell timber in BC, Canada for 35 years. First thing this dude needs to do is sharpen his saw then maybe it'll cut wood properly instead of grinding it. 2nd... his undercut's upside down, take the undercut out of the stump not the tree. 3rd.. those vertical cuts are not only a dumb waste of time, they're highly likely to cause a barberchair. 4th... now the tree's on the ground he has to cut off one foot to square the butt.. waste of wood and time. The volume of wood in a log is calculated firstly by measuring the diameter of the butt... inches lost in butt diameter make a huge difference to log volume. Lastly, folks might think this is a cool way to fall a little tree like this but try it in a Douglas Fir that's 6ft+ in diameter... or maybe a Western Red Cedar that's 16ft+ in diameter! This guy's teaching people how to be a danger to themselves and anybody around them! Nice suit he's wearing though!
Thank you for commenting, and pulling the video out of it's context. 1) you don't need to use the shark gill, if it is not suitable for the job; 2) the tree in the video is not a huge one; 3) The technique is not made to be used in forests in BC, Canada. It is made t be used in urban areas, where you need to do precision tree removal; 4) chill the fuck down and FOCUS! - Stop blaming me for something I didn't do!
With respect, brash comments like this might be avoided if there were more commentary at the start of the video on when you suggest using this technique. Not everyone will grasp its relative merits and disadvantages for different circumstances, but many it seems are too quick to point out the obvious cases where it should not be employed.
First I would like to say I can dig it, and will most definitely play around with it when I can pick up a saw again. I have worked with saws professionally for many years but my no means do I act like I know everything. I almost always annoy any people when I first start to work with them because I ask everyone questions to keep learning things I don’t know I don’t know. That being said, wouldn’t this be horrible for a new or home owner working on something stringy like an alder. I did catch the advanced part. But regardless I feel like someone could hurt themselves in a hurry if it became a barber chair. I just imagine someone trying to figure out the best way to take down their own problem tree with a bad lean or simply not understanding physics and see this and get some bad ideas. Maybe a sick tree or one with a heavy side splitting at a plunge site and turning the saw guy into a shish-kabob. No? If so, cool. No hate. Just asking. Lol. Thanks for the upload. Fun content.
Thank you! I agree, this is not for a rookie chainsaw handler. The cut is designed for situations when you need the hinge to be double wide. Most of those cases are for professionals only. Thank you for commenting, you have excellent points!
Mikä on tuossa ylimmän pysty sahauksen tarkoitus ? ylin pystysahaus jää kaatuvaan puuhun eikä edes jousta koska kaatosahaus on alareunasta, tulisi joustoa kaatoon jos sahaisi yläreunasta .
Se juuri mahollistaa paksumman pitopuun, tai oikeastaan siis keskimmäinen, korkeus ei ole niin olennainen, vaan että pitopuu on keskeltä halki, jolloin se on ontto ja mahdollistaa taipumisen.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Kyllä joo, mutta puuhan taipuu vain alempien pystysahauksien osalta, jos kaatosahaus olisi ylimmän pystysahauksen yläreunasta jolloin joustoa olisi enemmän, kaatuisiko ollenkaan?
@@tio4672 Itseasiassa kaatosahauksen korkeudella ei ole mitään merkitystä, onko se viimeisen pystysahauksen ylä- vai alareunasta. Jos katsot filmiä, näät miten se lähtee lohkeemaan pitkittäin umpipuuhun, tärkein tässä on tuo keskimmäinen sahaus ja tässä se olisi näyttänyt mekanismin paremmin, jos se olisi ollut korkeampi tai vähän alempana. Mut näähän selvii jokaiselle, ku vaan kokeilee ja kattoo, miten mikäkii toimii.
Куда наклонено было туда и свалил,так и без клина можно свалить,чего пень такой высокий оставил?покажите способ как свалить в другую сторону от наклона без приспособ всяких одной пилой
only problem of this is it takes too long time and if you cut every tree like this you will lose 2-3x more time and that means you could cutt 2-3x more trees for same time
I don't see how this is any better then a traditional back cut. At least in this context. You have a winch to pull the tree over so the strength of the holding wood isn't really an issue.
that wouldn't have been back leaning surely? else it would have pinched the saw on the back cut. I'd call that 'forward leaning' and the danger you're trying to avoid is barberchairing.
@@Roman_Av как я понял таким образом удерживающая древесина становится более крепкой, и гибкой, от чего дерево дольше остаётся какбы на пеньке, точнее держится его, от чего и более контролируемо падение, меньше шансов что пойдет на сторону, или его покрутит, и оно упадет не туда куда хочешь
Nice work, great job. The video would be enhanced by standing back and showing the viewers the lean of the tree. Apart from that, a great explanation of your cuts.
That will work on frozen timber. I've used double sizwheel bore cuts to swing hard frozen spruce , aspen and birch. It's the best that can be done to strengthen frozen holding wood. BUT it's an easy way to get quite a barberchair if someone does it in the summertime when the holding wood is really strong.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Unless you have to Really have to swing a tree a long ways and are in a hurry. Like you are Bushlin, ( falling timber and only getting paid for the volume of timber you get on the ground and limbed and bucked. Or just tree length. There is no reason to take that much time fooling around on the stump. The Only thing those bore cuts do is make the holding wood stronger and gives the holding wood more time to pull a side leaning tree into the lay you have for it. If you want to take a chance ripping a tree up the middle, having the butt run out behind the stump then fall off to one side or the other. Possibly from as much as 20 meters Up. . Go for it. Just so ya know that you will be taking a normally Dangerous job . And making it 4 times MORE Dangerous. With no benifit to be had. The bore cuts like you did are useful with Frozen timber. If you can get your timber to go where it needs to with just a wedge or 3. And normal conventional cuts. That is the better , safer and faster route to go.
I thought he was just asking for a barber chair . I do one high plunge cut, bring the rpms down to feel inside, and then I cut all the fiber material if it was not hollow . Then I do a normal wedge and back cut much lower than my gutting technique about a foot . If it is a big tree, I will do a wedge and then a bore behind the hinge working towards the trigger . After my gutting cuts on pines
Homeowners shouldn't attempt this. Pretty irresponsible to encourage non professionals to attempt useless tricky cuts. Just asking for a barberchair or full failure. Ive dealt with a lot of tricky leaners and your better to save that wood for wedge room.
This is a great demonstration of the importance of holding wood and what that wood is actually doing inside the tree. This is unbelievable. Makes complete since after watching though. WOW!!
И в чем контроль)))??? Скорость валки медленно тракторист со скуки сдхнт), а если дерево толстое как протыкать, это шину полутораметровую с собой носить)), а на тонкие другую )), а выдером испортил полтора метра ствола, а потом еще пеньки спиливать из-за штрафа от лесоустроителя)))
Then do it on a back leaning tree so we can see how it works. Why are you using the plunge cuts? The deep cut right behind the wedge cut how does that work? Would have thought it creates a barber pole.
Oh ffs why? How to waste time and fuel and chain metal and bar nose wear. Crazy. That was a tiny, green, softwood, vertical tree and a tiny saw. Such a ridiculous method would be EVEN MORE SENSELESS on a larger, dead, hardwood tree on any sort of an angle. Sheesh, get a day job. [From a firewood merchant of 45 years].
Eine sehr gute Methode ist auch die von den Bayrischen Staatsforsten gezeigte, sie ist sehr sicher und auch einfacher um zusetzten meiner Meinung nach, die hier gezeigte Methode benötigt auch noch eine Seilwinde oder ähnliches. Die Sicherheitsfälltechnik wird sehr gut erklär in diesem Video: th-cam.com/video/44oIX1ADA8E/w-d-xo.html (und auch noch in bayrisch .💪😅
? How much back lean was there? You need to show what you were up against please. 👍 Wow that is a lot to consider..... Im going to think about this style/method. Thanks for the video.
Interesting to watch. Satisfying, even. Does look like a dull chain, though. Shooting dust? And... did I catch a glimpse of a wedge falling out? Didn't see you put the wedge in or how hard you drove it. How much did that factor into lifting it out of its lean before you pulled it over with... I guess I didn't see that, either. I turned up the volume and, are you using a come-along? Sounds like ratcheting, but not a crank winch but back-and-forth sound of a ... cable come-along? Or was it a ratchet strap? Just curious.
Many people want to buy the same gear I use on my videos. Now I have an affiliate agreement with Husqvarna, and it is possible. Just follow this link: www.kqzyfj.com/click-101142111-15598737
⛑ HELMET: Forest helmet, Technical
🦺 JACKET: Husqvarna high vis forest jacket, Technical Extreme
👖 TROUSERS: Husqvarna chainsaw trousers, Technical Extreme Arborist
👖 TROUSERS: Husqvarna chainsaw trousers, Technical Robust
🪚 CHAINSAW: Husqvarna 550 XP G Mark II
🪚 CHAINSAW: Husqvarna 560 XP G Mark II
But you are using a stihl saw!
Very cool. When I was very young saw my father do this but didn't know what it was. Thank you for the detail! My only criticism is all of the cut branch debris at the base while you were cutting. Dad taught me to clear area so if something starts to go bad I wouldn't trip getting out of the way.
I just felled a beast of a tree today, on a very steep slope. I made sure to keep it all clean, and to know exactly where I could escape to from each position around the tree. I.e., I fully agree!
I have used this several times. Even when it's not critical, it is great to be able to control the falling rate with the multiple hinges. Great technique.
Nice! You are the first one!
What’s it for ?
If you compare it to a normal face cut where as soon as the acecut closes and the holding wood breaks, control of the tree is on its own. Using this technique, the layered hinges you create with the vertical cuts will hold longer and bend resulting in a longer, slower, more controlled felling of the stalk. In my limited experience, the longer you can control the stalk to the ground, the less risk to surrounding objects and the less turf damage. If you have a wide open area with nothing at risk of being g destroyed, this may be a waste of your time. It's definitely not for production driven jobs. Try it out. It's pretty enjoyable.
@@rickdebacker100 Longer/slower felling apt when your escape is not obstacle free. Llikely apt for a leaner I have in corner, juncture of 2 fences… wish plenty of time to escape. Also (guessing) guide ropes more effective on slower fell especially as some trunk rot adds an unknown, thus the guide-ropes for extra margin for error.
I agree@@gr8dvd
I support you, now you can support me: finnishlumberjack.creator-spring.com
Not learnin he just cuts. But yer ok
We all good after years thing is teach others n why not look at me.
@@julianalderson3938 Hi Juliana! Is there a way how I can make my videos better?
Thank you for commenting!
dude take 15 seconds and clear those tripping hazards
They kept me from falling into the snow, and slipping
Never heard of the technique before, is this practical or just something that tree surgeons came up with to make it look cool?
There are other techniques to leave the hinge wider. This is one of many, but definitely not just for surgeons...
What is the pulling portion of this? I would also appreciate showing the lean.
th-cam.com/video/xz8dYR_yNzU/w-d-xo.html
You say, PUlling . With what??
Genius
I really don't see a reason to waste time with this technique instead of just doing a bore cut and release from the back. You seem to be very good equipped, yet your surrounding area around the tree is not clean for your escape route. Therefore not how a professional should be teaching on TH-cam how to cut trees. Safety first inbthe woods
When it's crowded & messy like that...
I take way more time cleaning up those potential paths to dodge into than I ever take dropping the actual tree 🌳 😂
I was looking for something like this because I have a tree that someone let grow into a building on my property. I can't cut on the backside of the tree because it's pushing the wall in. Its also leaning towards the building.
@@NickHowlssounds like you’ll have to climb it and take pieces out
How did it go @NickHowls ?
Cool technique. A lot of these hacks require quite a bit of technical saw work that is beyond many people who will try to use them.
Интересно, но большого смысла не имеет, а вот труда много требуется!
Я дуже згоден
It doesn't make sense until you are faced with a situation that may require it, so you'd definitely want to practice it when you didn't need it,or walk away when you are faced with this situation and let someone else do the work,or come back at a later date with proper gear and machine@@АлександрИванов-и3ф2ы
Thank you for that demonstration!
Thank you Gusty for commenting!
What's the advantage of this technique, specifically with a back leaner, vs a traditional back cut with wedges and a line? It's not as if the traditional method is lacking in control.
Well, it definitely takes longer and burns more saw gas, if that's what a guy is after.
I prefer back cut first on trees with a back lean. However this method appears to allow you to leave more holding wood so when you put your face cut in first the tree doesn't sit back on your saw when you start your back cut. So you cut up to that first vertical bore and wedge instead of cutting up to your traditional holding wood. When out there cutting, you don't always have a line available.
Interesting technique! But for heavy back-leaners. Why not save a "safe corner" and drive 2-3 wedges and then release the corner. Is this not a bigger risk to split "barberchair" when doing a back cut? 🙂
That is a good point, and another way to solve this problem
I was thinking the same thing. I don't cut trees for a living but as soon as I saw the back cut, I said to myself, that looks like a recipe for a barber chair.
I use this cut to bind a side leaned tree to the lay. But you need to bore cut the center of the hinge to keep the barberchair from traveling.
The guy who's been making it popular hasn't had any problems with chairs, he uses it for residential tree work.
@Brett Black just got to pay attention bore cuts aren't really something you do safely and efficiently without practice
Never saw this technique. But I'm concerned how many times you stumbled on the debris around the tree.
Thank you
Yeah, first thing I noticed, too. If something starts to go wrong and you need to get away from the tree in a hurry, that mess at the base of the tree could very easily trip you up (especially with snow on the ground) and you are suddenly at the mercy of where the tree decides to fall. Take the time to clean all around the tree, especially where you are cutting, and know exactly where you are going to get out of harm's way if things go south on you. What this man should have said instead of a snarky "Thank you" is "You are exactly right. I should have removed all the cut branches from around the base of the tree. Thank you for pointing that out to everybody." Cutting down large trees is inherently dangerous work. Anybody who posts videos on "how to do it" should do their best to show the correct and safest way from start to Finnish.
Home owners 😂😂😂
That stuff was only in front it seemed...didn’t appear to impact his primary escape route
@chickenlegs yeah no kidding... there won’t always be perfect cutting situations...
a.s.m.r. at its best - I'm loving it
Please check my latest video, it is better ASMR
Skilled tradesman.
Silly thing is...
this video is one the greatest examples I've seen of drawing comments out of know-it-alls without a clue.
Lol.
That is the end state for many of my videos
Interesting, I have never seen this technique used. At one point it looked like it was splitting vertically and I thought it might Barber chair.
Here is a video where I'm using a tailored version of the shark gill on a tree removal job: th-cam.com/video/7ja_s503iHw/w-d-xo.html
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK thanks, I'll watch it for sure
After my first barber chair experience, I now throw a logging chain around the trunk just above the cut making it impossible to split beyond the diameter of the chain placement.
@@rickdebacker100 great idea
The branches lying around in the working and escape area contradict all safety efforts.
In the forest, this technique is economic nonsense.
In built-up areas and near roads it may have its justification. Also, in dry or minimally rotten wood, it could still provide higher guidance in the desired direction.
You are right
What's the point if you're using a come a long anyway? Just leave a decent amount of hinge wood and pull it over. No need to make it more difficult than it needs to be. I personally can't see an advantage to using this style of cut when you're using something that's going to pull the tree the direction you're planning.
Interesting 🤔 Cant say I've ever seen those cuts before. How far back was the tree leaning? I take it the tree was roped up before you starting cutting? Looked pretty cool 😎
The tree was standing straight, it was easier to film the cutting on a straight tree.
On a back leaner the fibers bend more so it holds longer insted of snapping off..
I put a longer face cut with this technique.
Thank you
3 seconds in and you are smashing the brake into the tree. What a pro.
Thanks
Pařez lze definovat jako část stromu (zpravidla bázi kmene), která zůstává zakotvena kořeny v zemi. Standardní výška pařezu by měla být 1/3 průměru káceného stromu (měřeno na řezu). V případě náročných terénních podmínek lze ponechat i pařez přiměřeně vyšší.
If you have to winch it vertical against the lean anyway, the extra cuts and hinges seem a waste of time. Wedges on the back cut and a winch would do the job anyway
This technique is made for the situations when those normal routines don't work, or they are too risky.
Спасибо, дельный практичный метод, надо попробовать, но почему на уровне пояса, там пень под метр высотой?
Спасибо, он обрезан высоко только для демонстрационных целей. Я сделал еще один разрез, чтобы обрезать пень меньше.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK 🤝👍
Looks like quite a faff, and im left not being quite sure what the advantage was? Maybe i shouldn't be telling trees, but It looked to me as if the tree would have gone over quite nicely with a normal mouth cut.
The video was to show the cutting technique and the behavior of the hinge.
neat looking but if the tree is being "pulled over" I'm not sure how this cut is specially designed to fell back leaning trees. either way it would appear that the wedge and whatever is hooked to the tree is overcoming the back lean, and not these vertical cuts. I could see this being useful for a tree with a questionable core. This could leave multiple hinge points where a single hinge might break earlier than anticipated if it wasn't solid in the middle.
Отличный способ валки👍👍👍
I fell timber in BC, Canada for 35 years. First thing this dude needs to do is sharpen his saw then maybe it'll cut wood properly instead of grinding it. 2nd... his undercut's upside down, take the undercut out of the stump not the tree. 3rd.. those vertical cuts are not only a dumb waste of time, they're highly likely to cause a barberchair. 4th... now the tree's on the ground he has to cut off one foot to square the butt.. waste of wood and time. The volume of wood in a log is calculated firstly by measuring the diameter of the butt... inches lost in butt diameter make a huge difference to log volume. Lastly, folks might think this is a cool way to fall a little tree like this but try it in a Douglas Fir that's 6ft+ in diameter... or maybe a Western Red Cedar that's 16ft+ in diameter! This guy's teaching people how to be a danger to themselves and anybody around them! Nice suit he's wearing though!
Thank you for commenting, and pulling the video out of it's context.
1) you don't need to use the shark gill, if it is not suitable for the job;
2) the tree in the video is not a huge one;
3) The technique is not made to be used in forests in BC, Canada. It is made t be used in urban areas, where you need to do precision tree removal;
4) chill the fuck down and FOCUS! - Stop blaming me for something I didn't do!
With respect, brash comments like this might be avoided if there were more commentary at the start of the video on when you suggest using this technique. Not everyone will grasp its relative merits and disadvantages for different circumstances, but many it seems are too quick to point out the obvious cases where it should not be employed.
Can you do another video of this with a tree that has a REAL back lean over a mansion?
First I would like to say I can dig it, and will most definitely play around with it when I can pick up a saw again. I have worked with saws professionally for many years but my no means do I act like I know everything. I almost always annoy any people when I first start to work with them because I ask everyone questions to keep learning things I don’t know I don’t know.
That being said, wouldn’t this be horrible for a new or home owner working on something stringy like an alder. I did catch the advanced part. But regardless I feel like someone could hurt themselves in a hurry if it became a barber chair.
I just imagine someone trying to figure out the best way to take down their own problem tree with a bad lean or simply not understanding physics and see this and get some bad ideas. Maybe a sick tree or one with a heavy side splitting at a plunge site and turning the saw guy into a shish-kabob.
No?
If so, cool. No hate. Just asking. Lol.
Thanks for the upload. Fun content.
Thank you!
I agree, this is not for a rookie chainsaw handler. The cut is designed for situations when you need the hinge to be double wide. Most of those cases are for professionals only.
Thank you for commenting, you have excellent points!
So did you use a winch or come along, because I think you had to pull that tree over?
Let me show you: th-cam.com/video/xz8dYR_yNzU/w-d-xo.html
Hyvä Jouni! 💪🏻🎅🏻🇫🇮🇫🇮🇫🇮
😃👍🏻👍🏻
Chcel by som to vidieť v praxi kde človek ledva stojí v kopci že ako dlho by ho to bavilo robiť 🤔 a nie na rovinách sa hrať s kahancom čo ledva reže 😂
Nie je určený pre každú situáciu...
Mikä on tuossa ylimmän pysty sahauksen tarkoitus ? ylin pystysahaus jää kaatuvaan puuhun eikä edes jousta koska kaatosahaus on alareunasta, tulisi joustoa kaatoon jos sahaisi yläreunasta .
Se juuri mahollistaa paksumman pitopuun, tai oikeastaan siis keskimmäinen, korkeus ei ole niin olennainen, vaan että pitopuu on keskeltä halki, jolloin se on ontto ja mahdollistaa taipumisen.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Kyllä joo, mutta puuhan taipuu vain alempien pystysahauksien osalta, jos kaatosahaus olisi ylimmän pystysahauksen yläreunasta jolloin joustoa olisi enemmän, kaatuisiko ollenkaan?
@@tio4672 Itseasiassa kaatosahauksen korkeudella ei ole mitään merkitystä, onko se viimeisen pystysahauksen ylä- vai alareunasta. Jos katsot filmiä, näät miten se lähtee lohkeemaan pitkittäin umpipuuhun, tärkein tässä on tuo keskimmäinen sahaus ja tässä se olisi näyttänyt mekanismin paremmin, jos se olisi ollut korkeampi tai vähän alempana. Mut näähän selvii jokaiselle, ku vaan kokeilee ja kattoo, miten mikäkii toimii.
Não consigo ver as vantagens nessa maneira de cortar a madeira
É projetado para árvores inclinadas para trás
u the man
Thank you very much!
Awesome
Куда наклонено было туда и свалил,так и без клина можно свалить,чего пень такой высокий оставил?покажите способ как свалить в другую сторону от наклона без приспособ всяких одной пилой
Легче прицелиться и показать тебе с более высоким пеньком
Well done but u didn’t show pounding the wedge in. We seen it fall off the back side . Still impressed
Is this to slow the the fall?
The main point is to maximize the thickness of the hinge. That gives the feller the maximum directional control to pull the back leaning tree down
Če je to najboljša tehnika... osebno mislim da je prezakomplicirana.
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only problem of this is it takes too long time and if you cut every tree like this you will lose 2-3x more time and that means you could cutt 2-3x more trees for same time
Intressant. 👍🏻
😃👍🏻👍🏻 tackar
That's a good way to have the tree barber chair on you really easily. Do not try that on really tall standing trees with a lean to it
Yes, but only in some cases
I don't understand why you got more control
what exactly is the gill right on the face cut for?
Kiitos
Ole hyvä 👍🏻
Nice Video!!!
Thank you!
Everything about this looked strange to me, but I've only ever worked with Australian hardwoods. Perhaps the trees are different up there.
А кто и когда провозгласил данный "танец с бубном" лучшим методом?
Я сделал, для особых случаев
I don't see how this is any better then a traditional back cut. At least in this context.
You have a winch to pull the tree over so the strength of the holding wood isn't really an issue.
It doesn’t compete with the traditional technique, it compliments.
Способ чисто для лесных маньяков, чтобы дольше мучить дерево.
th-cam.com/video/gVX8VimInMc/w-d-xo.html
But why, not necessary!?
The technique is for back learners. It helps to keep the hinge stronger
Has the camera ever fell on the chainsaw while running lol
Nope
I agree too slow , don’t see the benefit or need but will remain open minded
It is designed for back leaners
How come the other side showed two cuts not three?
U can't trust some1 whos running a stihl in husky clothing
😂😂🤣😂🥰
Damned Ole ridiculous
👌🏻
Doesent explain why sides but yer good.
The thick bark at the sides can make the trunk twist when falling
it is easier to see what you are doing when the bark is out of the way
I know thanx
@@julianalderson3938 Nice, you are welcome!
Это не лучшая техника валки, это стандартная техника с небольшим выпендрёжем для TH-cam.
Это сделано для особых ситуаций
Now do a cotton wood with a good back lean…..
Disculpen me fui a dormir mientras lo tumbaba..! Ya lo corto por fin????🤔🤔🤔
Disculpe, ¿qué?
Зачем столько заморочек?
👍🏻
Beginner 😮
🥶
Why ?
It might help you some day
Мастерски!
To nás učí už 50 let ve všech uč oborech
A nikdy nesklame
👍🏻
Ça gaspille du bois....
Non, pas vraiment
Если у дерева центр веса смещен это не работает!
Согласен, он предназначен только для наклоняющихся деревьев
Not necessary for most situations and too time consuming. A good hinge/holding wood is all you need.
Yes, this is a special technique for special situations. I developed a faster version of this and have used it on my tree removal jobs.
Я с ясенями так не заморачиваюсь...
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that wouldn't have been back leaning surely? else it would have pinched the saw on the back cut. I'd call that 'forward leaning' and the danger you're trying to avoid is barberchairing.
Ну если нужно свалить одно дерево, то можно и повыеживаться...если больше делать нечего.
Да, это предназначено только для особых случаев.
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Так, а чем этот способ отличается от обычного запила направленной валки под 30°-45°
Подскажите, пожалуйста)
@@Roman_Av как я понял таким образом удерживающая древесина становится более крепкой, и гибкой, от чего дерево дольше остаётся какбы на пеньке, точнее держится его, от чего и более контролируемо падение, меньше шансов что пойдет на сторону, или его покрутит, и оно упадет не туда куда хочешь
Когда делать нечего или нужно людям мозги засрать.
Такой метод подходит.
@@avdeos
Становится более крепкой и гибкой? Это за счёт чего происходят подобные... волшебные изменения свойств древесины?))
Nice work, great job. The video would be enhanced by standing back and showing the viewers the lean of the tree. Apart from that, a great explanation of your cuts.
That will work on frozen timber.
I've used double sizwheel bore cuts to swing hard frozen spruce , aspen and birch. It's the best that can be done to strengthen frozen holding wood.
BUT
it's an easy way to get quite a barberchair if someone does it in the summertime when the holding wood is really strong.
Sounds like I need to retry this summer
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK
Unless you have to Really have to swing a tree a long ways and are in a hurry. Like you are Bushlin, ( falling timber and only getting paid for the volume of timber you get on the ground and limbed and bucked. Or just tree length.
There is no reason to take that much time fooling around on the stump.
The Only thing those bore cuts do is make the holding wood stronger and gives the holding wood more time to pull a side leaning tree into the lay you have for it.
If you want to take a chance ripping a tree up the middle, having the butt run out behind the stump then fall off to one side or the other. Possibly from as much as 20 meters Up. . Go for it. Just so ya know that you will be taking a normally Dangerous job . And making it 4 times MORE Dangerous. With no benifit to be had.
The bore cuts like you did are useful with Frozen timber.
If you can get your timber to go where it needs to with just a wedge or 3. And normal conventional cuts. That is the better , safer and faster route to go.
@@glenurquhart2300 Thank you
I wouldn't do it with an ash. The saw appears to not be very sharp.
I thought he was just asking for a barber chair . I do one high plunge cut, bring the rpms down to feel inside, and then I cut all the fiber material if it was not hollow .
Then I do a normal wedge and back cut much lower than my gutting technique about a foot . If it is a big tree, I will do a wedge and then a bore behind the hinge working towards the trigger . After my gutting cuts on pines
Homeowners shouldn't attempt this. Pretty irresponsible to encourage non professionals to attempt useless tricky cuts. Just asking for a barberchair or full failure. Ive dealt with a lot of tricky leaners and your better to save that wood for wedge room.
Watching the video will scare the non professionals away and to try something more simple
This is a great demonstration of the importance of holding wood and what that wood is actually doing inside the tree. This is unbelievable. Makes complete since after watching though. WOW!!
Thank you very much, I wish everyone would see it like you did 👍🏻
Да..нефига с такой скоростью незаработаешь
Нет, вы не правы. Это дерево только для немногих профессионалов
"learned" that leaving the branches where you have to walk around is pro...... Hello carelessness, goodbye safety!
👋🏻
И в чем контроль)))??? Скорость валки медленно тракторист со скуки сдхнт), а если дерево толстое как протыкать, это шину полутораметровую с собой носить)), а на тонкие другую )), а выдером испортил полтора метра ствола, а потом еще пеньки спиливать из-за штрафа от лесоустроителя)))
Много "если"
Lot of job for a small tree..
But very creative !
Cool man
Thank you, the technique is designed for difficult back leaners
Way too loonnnng.... And expensive for a professionnel logger....😊
🫡
Okay....and the advantage is?.....so you loose the first foot or two of your log...I'll stick to the Humboldt cut....thank you be safe cutting. Shoe
The only advantage of the cut is the double-wide, yet flexible hinge for extra strength
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Oh gotcha..will try it next week...have a great weekend.
@@robertshoemaker6204 you too, and happy Easter
@@FINNISHLUMBERJACK Indeed Happy Easter!!!
А как же бабушки? Как на таком пеньке сидеть?
😄
Вам кажется, что наши бабушки выше ваших?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Aika erikoistapaus pitää ollaa,että semmoista rupeaisin tekemään.Mutta Jounilla onnistui hyviin👍🏻
👍👍
Not sure of ideal use case here, but creative. Seems like a standard cut would have worked as well?
Yes, this was a demonstration on a tree standing tall. The cut is designed for back leaning trees 🌲
Then do it on a back leaning tree so we can see how it works. Why are you using the plunge cuts? The deep cut right behind the wedge cut how does that work? Would have thought it creates a barber pole.
I will, just a moment.
😂 try that nonsence on a 100ft Mtn ash here in aus will slab out an an tear you in half ☠️
Oh ffs why?
How to waste time and fuel and chain metal and bar nose wear. Crazy.
That was a tiny, green, softwood, vertical tree and a tiny saw. Such a ridiculous method would be EVEN MORE SENSELESS on a larger, dead, hardwood tree on any sort of an angle.
Sheesh, get a day job.
[From a firewood merchant of 45 years].
🤣😂👍🏻👍🏻
Eine sehr gute Methode ist auch die von den Bayrischen Staatsforsten gezeigte, sie ist sehr sicher und auch einfacher um zusetzten meiner Meinung nach, die hier gezeigte Methode benötigt auch noch eine Seilwinde oder ähnliches. Die Sicherheitsfälltechnik wird sehr gut erklär in diesem Video: th-cam.com/video/44oIX1ADA8E/w-d-xo.html (und auch noch in bayrisch .💪😅
Byl jsem 40 let v lese.....tohle jsem ještě neviděl
Kdo to tam ten příspěvek dal je naprosto Matěj
💪🏻
WTF great technique if you have unlimited time on you hands ! Lol
😃👍🏻👍🏻
? How much back lean was there?
You need to show what you were up against please. 👍
Wow that is a lot to consider..... Im going to think about this style/method.
Thanks for the video.
Also wer mit dem fallkerbdach anfängt braucht gar keine Genauigkeit....
Warum nicht?
Ну, якщо за високі пеньки не накладають штрафні санкції, то можливо
👍🏻
Looking to me, like trying to create a greater chance of a barber chair and losing part of the saw log.
In Finland the Barberchairing is a issue onlyu when the trees are hard frozen. Othervise the wood is soft on most cases
rule number one cleanliness at the workplace
#1
Bin ich der einzige der hier keine Vorteile gegenüber der Sicherheitsfalltechnik sieht?
Warum so aufwendig?
Verstehe diese Falltechnik nicht.
Пока он там резьбой по дереву занимается, нормальный вальщик уже бы всю поляну выкосил вместе с кустами.
Нормальный?
Interesting to watch. Satisfying, even. Does look like a dull chain, though. Shooting dust? And... did I catch a glimpse of a wedge falling out? Didn't see you put the wedge in or how hard you drove it. How much did that factor into lifting it out of its lean before you pulled it over with... I guess I didn't see that, either. I turned up the volume and, are you using a come-along? Sounds like ratcheting, but not a crank winch but back-and-forth sound of a ... cable come-along? Or was it a ratchet strap? Just curious.
Warm welcome to my channel
木の状況によっては裂けて事故に繋がるので気をつけてください！