Watch This Before Buying Drywall Anchors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I’m testing drywall anchors from the ez anchor basic wall anchors to the new 3M claw to see what they can really hold!
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You need to have a hanger on the screw, when it's not fully in, it's not doing its job and you're giving the force a lever arm over whatever it could do. The test in indeed inconclusive. Also, on the "pull" test, you could've done it flat on the table with a see-saw type implement hanging over the table. At a known ratio on the arm, you'd balance the weights until it would pull out. Mostly because if you stop during the test (IE if you don't pull uniformly) it's not gonna give you right results either.
But it was fun watching you drop stuff on the ground!
Jerking on it also is giving a lot more force than that crappy or even most scales are going to be able to react fast enough to see.
I'll stick to Project Farm for data like this.
The Claw was designed for wire suspended frames, like big paintings and especially mirrors. Considering for what they are designed for, it's the best amongst the anchors for pictures, especially when it's reduced wall damage is taken into consideration. The screw in anchors have a love/hate relationship with me: easy to put in and just as easy to strip out the hole.
Heres a tip, once you get 5mm from hammering in your plug, out a screw in it and hammer it in flush without marring up your plaster. Also when removing undo the screw until it just holds and use some pliers to pull it out 👊🏼
Project Farm did a massive test for wall anchors
Only guy I trust
I was gonna say. He's not very scientific either, but he does a good enough job that we trust it.
Thank you for commenting this. Why is this guy just pulling. Guess I would watch this if I was trying to hang something from the ceiling?
@@andrewfelsinger8332 He's not? Did you watch the video or stop halfway through? Well, saying "Guess I would watch this if ...." kinda gives it away.
Apartment dweller, here. The 3M claws and wire nails minimize damage and get me my deposit back. 👍
Toothpaste to fill holes when you leave, when it dries you can't see it unless you know where they were
But you can smell it
@@sociopathmercenary if you can after a few days, well it was never mentioned in my move out walk through. I had filled them about a week before and it was never brought up
@@legionofanonaggressively poor much?
Most of the packaging has directions to put the screw fully driven then back out to where you need it.
When you don't use them correctly, it doesn't perform as specified. Who knew
The failure modes in most cases suggest the drywall fails before the anchor does in almost all cases.
You are NOT putting the anchors in shear. You are using tension which is not meaningful.
I'm surprised to not see met Molly expanding Wall Anchors. You don't have it in USA ? (we use that a lot in France) From what I know it's really strong.
We have them
Also should have used metal zipits
Zip toggles for everything. hahaha
And if I do the big screw ins, always metal.
This is a great video! Early in the video, I put my engineering mind on hold and watched it for entertainment (with some useful information thrown in). Then I read the comments for even more laughs. You said your tests were not scientific, but the comments are full of suggestions/criticism of your techniques.
Loved it when the scales went to KG - It then made more sense :D .
Any chance to could provide metric numbers as well? So the rest of the world can understand the measures?
//I'm saying this with a jest 😆 - but some mm, cm, m, g and kg would be great!
For a short moment I felt warm and included with the Kg. But just as fast the show got metric racist again. Thanks Brad!
Could anyone help me with the understanding of the pull out test? What scenario is some pulling these out horizontally?
Ceiling mounted TV or mirror above your bed.
@@freakerss nice one 😊
99.9% is going to pull in a downward motion not straight out.... not much being mounted to the ceiling using these....
We have a 6’x2’ heavy art piece. The top is about 3/4” further away from the wall as the bottom. I am sure there is outward pressure on the hangers. Maybe this?
An example would be if you mounted a TV in the wall. Once the mount is loaded, it will tend to want to rotate around it's lower screws, putting a pulling out force on the top screws. In fact, there would be very little shear load on the top fasteners in that situation.
My biggest complaint towards any of these is the marketing. Unless you're in a stud, the anchors will only ever be as strong as the drywall they're in, (just like it was mentioned in the video. Wall anchors do too much damage, and require more work to repair because of the much larger holes they require so I tend not to use them. I use small finishing nails, or picture hangers because they put the nails at an upward angle which ads a bit more strength to them. It's the same principal behind driving fasteners in wood. It gives the fastener more material to sink into.
If you're in a stud, there's no need for a drywall anchor.
This is actually not for simple pictures. Any parent should know this to properly secure Dressers shelves and anything that could tip over when a child climbs on it.
I like finishing nails for picture frames myself, even for some pretty large ones like mirrors that have two hanging points, they do great.
My wife hangs smaller picture frames (up to 8x11 photo frames) on thumbtacks which is by far the easiest and least damaging option of any.
Interesting. I'm thinking maybe should used a piece of Allstrap, would've worked nice for shear factor and allow the screws to get tight
Great video. I would try not to drop that scale, eventually it'll prob screw up the calibration.
The pullout test is invalid; you're basically measuring a goldfish by its ability to play basketball. That's not the directional forces those are made to resist.
the threads resist that force. there are definitely pull loads when you mount stuff. it's not all shear (i.e. downward, perpendicular)
I like your video, it was super useful for me, a guy who has never hung anything super heavy on drywall.
Its definitely as strong as I need it.
That said, what a lot of other people have said is that your pulling is causing things to fail prematurely.
When you pull and jerk with your pull, you're creating a dynamic force and the anchors or drywall will fail much earlier with dynamic loads.
I mean, as a renter I don't put holes in my walls. If it can't be held up with some soft velcro adhesive or command hooks - it doesn't go on my walls.
Those anchors have different engineering objectives. Im glad you mentioned Some are designed to hold in sheer, some in tension. Once you introduce an angle it’s no longer “as rated”
And I’m confident the marketing exaggeration dependent found the strongest drywall for testing
"It was switched to kg"
Kinda funny that whenever americans talk about kg, they always mention europeans.
It's almost like you guys don't know, that basically the whole world uses the metric system. Not just europe. 😄
It’s more about who my audience is. I know the vast majority of outside of US are European (and some Aussies) 😀
@@Fixthisbuildthat That makes total sense. 👍
It was just a fun thing I noticed from a lot of channels. 😊
@@maxmoller Being one of the Aussies - I had a chuckle to this too. But I watch so many US based TH-camrs that I think my Metric to Imperial conversions on the fly are getting to be one of my best skills haha
The hook shaped ones found on Amazon as a "Super Hooks Picture Hanger"...best for renters...NO TOOLS, totally reusable, and they leave a VERY small hole when removed. They also hold a LOT of weight for their size. Would have loved to have seen them compared to these others.
The name brand is "Monkey Hooks"...rated up to 50 pounds on the "gorilla" grade ones.
I love the basic anchors. I just learned a lot from reading the comments. I absolutely hate the screw in anchors. They never work for me.
Gotta bust your chops here for two issues, Brad. First, I personally wouldn't have worn safety glasses for most of these activities either, but if I'd promised Norm ON VIDEO that I would always wear them, I sure would wear them for the rest of the video. I mean...Norm Abrams. You LIED to him, on camera. Second issue -- aren't you an engineer by training? Most of us can do the rough calculations on the difference between weight to start an anchor compressing the material versus the weight required for it to slip out and fail...can't you? LOVE your work! Enjoy your camera presence. But please don't ever lie to Saint Norm again, my friend.
Test Invalid, Load Rating is for SHEAR not pull. Pulling is a different set of dynamic forces, Shear was the design load so.... Test Invalid. Further, you never know how thick the drywall is, builder may have gone cheap for the sheet in front of you... I've encountered 1/8th inch drywall.... that won't hold an anchor to start with.
Watching those fail, how many of those were the anchor failing, and how many were the drywall itself failing?
You might rerun the tests (second video?) with 5/8" drywall, and compare to the 1/2" numbers. I'm betting you see the same anchors hold more weight in the thicker drywall.
Except for those metal surface hooks. Those things will just knife through the drywall every time.
Kinda annoyed that you found the method why your tests weren't correct (not screwing in all the way) but didn't go back to fix it. Essentially invalidating the whole thing
Brad, I think your results are all forfeit as the ‘load’ was making contact further down the line against your units this will have transferred some of the loads weight to that ‘ANCHOR’ point. The line and weights (including you sir) must hang freely at all times. So sorry all results are ineligible.
Enjoyed the video regardless.
Bob
England
The second pull test that felt lighter, most likely came out with less force because it was closer to the center of the drywall which means that drywall itself, flexed a little more than it did in the rigid area of the board. As such, it caused the anchor wing to slip through the hole prematurely and thus, caused the whole thing to fail more quickly than. It should have. Had all holes been placed in, say, a 1'X1' square and the anchor centered and then each one tested, I bet it would have lasted longer than the first
Molly Anchors enter the chat ...
You are only using 1-anchor per50os 70 - lbs.
If I were hanging that much weight I would use 6-or more anchors for that much weight.
Why do all these guys fail to consider patching, especially for renters. The claws are far superior. Also, the pure physics of this test are flawed, as the claws are meant for a distributed weight across a hanging wire and wide frame. Not direct weight directly under the hook itself. If you're going to perform a test, perform it accurately.
Was this 1/2 or 5/8 Sheetrock? Nevermind you just answered. The difference in substrate makes a difference as well, if you notice most anchors have a rating depending on the substrate.
This confuses horizontal strength (can you pull it out) against perpendicular strength (what can hang on it).
Especially as most fittings are screwed in tight so the force is barely rotational but primarily perpendicular.
Or do we normally try to pull paintings from the way, rather than down the wall?
Most
Every single one of those hangers is meant for downward force, not a horizontal pulling force. I appreciate the explanation of each but the testing method is not what those anchors were designed for.
You should haave tested the Gorilla Wall Hangers, I found them about 10 years ago, and as a renter have used them on every apartment and have had no problem hanging a 46x30 wood framed picture with glass. They go in easily and remove mostly easy, and only leave a minimal hole.
The failure point is the lightweight drywall! If you cut it and look, it is nothing but holes like a sponge. I have patched thousands of nail/screw pops over the last five years and I fully believe lightweight drywall crushes which allows movement.
Very nice, I'm just about to install heavy heaters on my drywalls I have been looking for a strong anchor for a long time, I came across a company called Rapid they made a kit with a tool that you install the anchor it made of metal and it got quite a big wings, I wish you would test these out
Those sound like toggle bolt style, which are more expensive because they do infact work very well. Really though, for anything of real weight or import, like heaters, find a stud.
Find a stud, and if the mounting holes don't line up to two studs, mount some plywood up first then mount to that. May not be fantastically pretty, but it should keep it from ever falling off
The zip style drywall anchors will almost definitely hold. I've used these to hold one side of a cabinet when I could only hit one stud.
I use the winged anchors and you have to actually tighten the screw to fully deploy the wings. They do get very strong if tightened fully but very weak if not tight.
Hi Brad-Merch question-would love a couple of your shirts in a hooded sweatshirt. Any plans on offering sweatshirts in the future? Thx.
In defense of the screw ins... they did at least reach their rated strength and exceed it, just not as much as the others. Also thicker drywall... lol
That said I trust the screw in kind over the push in kind 100% more. I use both for work and the screw ins are way more consistent at working/expanding while the push ins will fail/tear/pull out literally half the time without fail(lol). The screw ins are also way quicker since I don't need to change bits and can go straight to sinking screws.
I've had great luck with the ez anchors. I've used probably 50+ hanging things throughout my house.
I guess I will continue to watch you as you have a Bona Fide Norm Approval, which is right up there with the Good Housekeeping Seal. 🙂
The screw in ("wall mate" in australia) are not supposed to be split by the screw. You're taking away it's holding power every time you drive that screw in and split it apart.
"I think the problem is that I'm using a bad testing setup and I am going to do nothing to fix it. This is all the anchor's fault" terrible video, go watch project farm.
They aren’t made for pull out strength thats why the test is wrong. The force they are rated for is PULL DOWN not PULL OUT. The second test was the right way to do the test. But all anchors are also rated by the hook base if a hook is present.
The way that meter is pulling, it's pulling outwards instead of down, is causing the failures. That big hook is causing the outwards pull.
I've had those screw-in ones pull out on a toilet paper holder, extremely unhappy with their performance. To be fair, I do suspect bad drywall to be a factor there as well, but it was multiple places in the home
I think perhaps some people are taking this one too seriously, or maybe I'm just assuming that it's meant to be a humorous comparison video and not a structural engineering class. Either way, I enjoyed the video though I personally avoid drywall anchors for anything larger than a small picture.
So, you acknowledge that you need to screw in the screw into the screw-in ones (filters are sure to grab that statement!), but yet you critiqued it for not performing better?
lol... pull out strength.
I use walldogs for everything! They changed how I hang pictures or mount stuff to the wall. Just screw them in and you are done.
Because your load cell requires the screw to stick out farther just sub it out for a longer screw so you still get all of the separation in the back. Then your load ratings will be much higher.
Interesting video ... liked your progression although the results did not surprise me. I was a little disappointed you didn't also use a traditional toggle bolt in this comparison
My favorite are the Toggler Hollow Wall Anchors
If I'm not going into a stud, these are the only ones I use. Advertised at 265lbs in drywall, and I'm pretty confident that that's accurate.
This style is my go-to for thick plaster walls.
Why'd you completely ignore all the toggle bolt anchor options? They're super easy to use and hold way more weight.
Also worth watching is How Much Can a Drywall Anchor Actually Hold on the channel Vancouver Carpenter
"How much can wall anchors really hold when they are stressed in a manner they are not designed for and in a manner virtually no one would ever use them?7" asked no one, ever.
5:06 that's not how wall anchors are rated. They're rated for shear (hanging something on the wall), not straight pull out.
I think the end result is: use whatever you have on hand, or is easiest to install.
I've usually used the screw in ones as they are just easy to install.
Are your wall studs 16-inch apart? I think the holding rate depending upon the studs too.
Try sheet rock
You left out the more traditional metal drywall anchors that are designed to fully set then the screw removed and put back in.
Suggestion - use a rope for each weight, and stack them that way instead of loading more weights on the same rope!
Zip toggles are the best to use. Simple, quick, and reliable. Everything else is pretty awful, with the exception of the metal anchors you "screw" into the wall, but only for light loads.
Additionally, hitting a stud is best, zip toggles are also great for metal studs.
Metal Toggles need to be tested too. Bigger hole to drill, but do they compete better than their plastic counterparts?
Another greaet video. Personally I really like the screw in kind. I find them easier to remove and just as easy as any of the others to patch. I find the "standard" drill and hammer kind anonying because I never seem to get the hole drilled the right size, often harder to remove, and of course generating way more dust in the process. With the screw in you could of course use a longer screw with the screw in kind if you knew you were going to screw it in all that way to get the wings fully out.
Do you have any suggestions on how to hang things (a framed corkboard) on a hollow core door?
At some point, you’re really just testing the strength of drywall, not the anchors
Looks like the claw could benefit a metric ton from a simple piece of double sided tape on the back.
Love the claw yes it cost more but sometimes installing the anchors are a pain even with the right bit size hammering them in etc
and by “european friends” u actually mean “the rest of the world” 🤣🤣🤣
14:12 probably due to being dropped. The strain gauge in there probably doesn’t like that
Looking for ones to hold shelves and dressers to the wall to prevent tipover. No one seems to cover it well...
YT title suggestion for this video:
Screw around and find out😂
Only the little weights look like they are actually being used for weight lifting :P
It would be interesting to see toggle bolts since their package rating is insanely high.
Tighten the screw all the way down to set the wings/lugs etc then back the screw out for a better test
I used The Claw for a wall with a pocket door inside. Only negative is that the top of The Claw extends above the picture.
.....when you say wall putty you mean dollar store toothpaste right?
The screw in kind normally come with much longer screws
If you measure and write it down it's science. - Mythbusters
There is absolutely no debate on norm being the goat
For accurate testing, you need to pull the anchors downward, not toward yourself. Pulling them toward you yanks them out instead of allowing the anchors to transfer the weight down to the wall. The direction of the applied force is also important because of gravity.
Did you even watch the video?
The test result is also highly determined by the quality of try wall.
for the weight test, shouldn't you be pulling down not out??
Lol you spinning out the beast is the exact reason i hate those style anchors
"Success!.. or... failure?" Task failed successfully!
Should've tested the screw in one with the paracord to see if it did better
NGL, i was partially hoping for a sack tap on the beast 😁
I wonder how the frame hook will hold up during an earthquake
You should’ve tested snap toggle drywall anchors
When will we see some more content about progress at the new property?
Project Farm still the king for this stuff….
Invest in a scale that will remember the maximum force.
This video did not have to be more than 20 minutes.
Don’t forget to add the weigh5 of the scale and hardware.
You should test the TOGGLER against these also.