FYI, You don't even have to disassemble your stanley knife to get a new blade. push it all the way forward and the old blade will release and you can pull it out the front, then pull the slider all the way back to load a new blade.
In some countries it's actually illegal to have a knife of any kind, even if you are a trades person, that you can expose and hide the blade of with one hand.
uni Kuru Toga 0.5 mm High Grade Auto Lead Rotation Mechanical Pencil The tip rotates, in order to keep a new face on the surface you're working on, thus kinda auto sharpens. Will admit, for working on wood... maybe doesn't work as well, but for draft work, best mechanical pencil that isn't a Rotring.
To be fair to the tire depth gauge, if you're needing 1/64" accuracy, you're not a woodworker, you're a cellulose machinist, and your projects can never leave the climate-controlled environment they're assembled in. ;)
And wood that's dry enough for your region won't warp like construction lumber or pressure treated. As long as it has a good finish and not going into a home with no Insulation
Came to say the same thing. Something to add, though, is that Olfa blades are known to be thicker/stronger, making them more useful for people that cut thicker materials like foam boards, insulation, etc. You essentially have a long disposable knife that holds up better than trying to do the same with regular snap off blades. The front support is also supposed to be helpful in supporting the blade as it flexes, letting it flex without breaking better than others, though I can't vouch for that.
Haha, I was coming here to say that too, as someone who uses one almost daily. And I bought a diamond sharpening pad which I use to resharpen the blades while they're still installed, because I'm cheap AF.
The best feature about the Pentel pencil is that when you retract the tip and then re-extend it, the lead stays at the previous position so you don’t have to click until you get it where you were using it before. This might seem trivial, but it’s great if you are holding something and don’t want to look away to set the lead extension to where it’s usable.
Nice. I used pencils in school but don't need them now. I like the idea of protecting the tip from bending which has happened more than stabbing myself that one time
While it appears to be a very rugged metal bodied construction, you do need to take care not to drop it to the floor because the middle joint is plastic and can fracture. My favorite part of the design is the clip, which allows it to accommodate thick pocket material easily and holds securely. Retraction mechanism has a nice solid click that serves as a fidget toy to boot 🙃
@@dubmob151 It replaces the plastic collar (the part under the grip and which connects to the main body) with an aluminium one, or whichever material you want. Much more sturdy!
Being a retired Tool and Die maker I used 1 2 3 blocks a lot in making dies so I dragged my blocks out and started using them for woodworking as a hobby. They do come in fairly handy in fact I use quite a few of my Tool and Die tools such as squares and measuring tools. But my woodworking skills aren't nearly as good as my machining skills were. Keep up the great videos.
One of my favourites is a combo of dollar store craft foam and double- sided tape. Use the tape to stick sandpaper to the foam - I typically cut them approx 2" × 3" unless for something specific. These are great for sanding small or tight areas where you would probably otherwise just grab a scrap of sandpaper and try to fold it to give it some substance, only to have the paper getting frustratingly crumbled before the grit or job is done. This way is easier to grip, flex into and around spaces, and lasts longer. You can also use a permanent marker to write the grit on the foam.
I’m surprised nobody has mentioned a 5-in-1 painters tool yet. As a carpenter, that’s one of my most used tools! Great for scraping, prying, chiseling, or, y’know, painter things too probably
For mixing up just a little bit of epoxy, the best thing I've found is something you had in the video. Just flip a Dew can upside down and use the bottom.
I liked the straw approach to dealing with glue in tight places. Straws and other single use plastics are being banned in many jurisdictions. Suggest DIY'ers consider using the V-notch tool that comes with silicone placement and removal kits. This tool is reusable and will help to keep plastics out of landfills and the environment.
Indeed I'd rather wet a paper towel and toss it after I couldn't get anymore use. At least that won't take 500 years to biodegrade. The other problem with these single use plastics is that they become part of our beaches as plastic shards and pebbles. What he should really be buying is paper straws if he wants something disposable. You can buy 200 packs for about $7. Or a 600 pack(Kingseal brand on Amazon) for $10.
Totally agree with the issue of single-use plastics. That said, straws are handy since when you've got a glue-up with clamps, straws will allow you to come in from the side(s) in tight spaces to get the glue before it sets. Nick's idea of paper straws might work but I haven't tried it.
@@NorthVanDukeOfDirt I was coming too look for/leave this kind of comment. I didn't want to be that guy either, as I use straws all the time (I don't like single use plastics and try to wash/reuse what I can), but I'd like to know if paper straws would work as well in this application. Now that I think about it, one straw could probably be used for this many times though. After use, just cut off the used tip and throw out. Probably only really uses about a 1/4 in of the straw with each use.
Glue bottles! The Glubot (made by fast cap) is a total game changer. I also like the Rockler glue bottle that has a roller built into the lid. The glue dispenses directly onto the roller, so it's really easy to spread around.
We use 1 2 3 blocks a lot in prop/costumes making. They are great for everything, even down to using them as pattern weights when you are tracing out your patterns.
One of my favorite oddball cheap tools is a hemostat. Cheap ones from the cheapo tool store are like $7, but usually have a sloppy pivot and the jaws don't line up well. Spend a few bucks more on a well made pair and the are the best needle nose pliers.
Just want to say thank you for running an extremely relevant sponsored segment (rather than garbage I needed to fast-forward through). A really cool-looking store I've never heard of with lots of pictures of the inside and some fun/cheap/useful products they have there. It was perfect.
Right after your video, I found a Woodcraft store about 15 minutes from my house (I must have passed by it 100 times). What a great store. I'm glad I saw your video.
I used 1-2-3 blocks all the time to run a CNC router table. They work great with T nuts in aluminum extrusion as backstops and clamps, and you can also make your workholding clamps much sturdier if you use the 123 in place of a long bolt for clamping down thicker pieces. I was carving vacuum form mold bucks to make automotive trim pieces at an armored car factory, and they are also great as a quick way to offset a measurement, so maybe you are using a stack of gauge blocks to build up your 3/4", but then you need 1 3/4, you can plunk the block in and quickly extend your measure, set your fence, and it saves you time(at that plant we had a machine shop as well as the wood shop, so I milled myself a pair of "nominal lumber" 1-2-3s as well for dealing with 2x4s and the like, too, and you are right, that is pretty handy in a wood shop, but I also had a laser there I used to make all sorts of nice metal woodworking jigs out of armor scraps).
Just a suggestion. To spread glue on larger surfaces, I use cards - hotel key cards, cruise cards, old membership cards, etc. You can also use expired credit cards, but be sure to put them up or shred before tossing. They are easy, free, and work great. And they also clean up easily if you want to reuse them. Great video. I'll be buying few of those goodies.
I didn't think I had a suggestion, but it turns out I do! You - and many of us - use the little Dixie cups for mixing and pouring small quantities of glue or paint or whatever. But, when you need to mix a small amount of epoxy, you simply cannot beat a plastic spoon. Used in conjunction with a toothpick (or one of those coffee stirrers, the bowl provides the perfect shape for mixing and encouraging the catalytic action. Grab one out of the back of your utensil drawer (from the last time you got take-out) and give it a try!
Great video, as a machinist I used 1-2-3 blocks at work at all the time. Then when I started working on my house and doing other projects, i found them very useful around the house as well. I've been legitimately surprised at the quality or some of the ones i've bought for cheap online. They aren't quite as good as ones i've made or high end ones i've bought, but I don't need them to be within .0001" for house projects.
I've never been a machinist but I bought 123 blocks and they have been handy in some unexpected ways. Also makes a reasonable guide for drilling square.
I found myself using 123 blocks as paper weights in my shop for when plans wanted to roll themselves up. So my son, who uses mostly exocit wood in his work made me some 123 blocks out of some purple heart and Lignum vite. Not particularly accurate but nice to have and better to use as paper weights.
Yeah I didn't know people used them outside of machining 3-2-1 blocks are machined within hundreds, thousandths, or ten thousandths of an inch so that you can set your tool offsets when using a CNC machine or just making sure you have your tool set up properly if you have a regular end mill Just make sure to remove it from the table after using it lol I've seen people crash machines from leaving one in a machine before they ran it They're not really made for woodworking, so unless you're using it for something like setting up a planer or router table you're probably better off using a scrap piece of wood
123 blocks are great for offset blocks for doing cross cuts on the table saw. Know that you just are losing one inch when you setup the fence (so add one inch to the fence setting) and that way you can safely use the fence + block, remove block and then cross cut with a miter guide. I also use them for setting up on chop saws as an off set block against my stop block.
If you happen to have a DeWalt 20V trim router, the radius of the fixed base is exactly 2" from the center of the bit. So a set of 1-2-3 blocks works perfectly for setting up an edge guide for dados.
Great tip. I didn’t know that. I keep a 123 block at the table saw with one of those Rockler hook clamps. I drop it over the fence for an exact 1” offset when I’m using my miter gauge.
One tool accessory that I love for spray painting is the Rust Oleum "High Performance Comfort Spray Grip Accessory". Last I checked, it's about $11.50 at Home Depot and makes spray painting anything so much easier!
I have, I believe that exact Olfal knife. You do NOT need to completely unscrew the bits from under the wheel to remove the blade stub for replacement. Once the wheel is loose enough, it just slides out the back and you hook on another blade.
The pencil is a drafting pencil. The metal tip, one, supports the lead to help prevent easy breaking and so you don't get lead on your drafting rulers and other tools since those tools are typically slightly elevated from the surface of the paper.
Regarding Olfa. I only use 2 types: For Heavy Duty, the LA-X model -- NOT the one with the spinning dial. The LA-X model has the prying end that has SO many practical uses. To change the blade: try this instead: 1. Retract down to the last blade 2. If you're facing the dial (the front face), flip it so the 'back face' is pointed in the upward direction 3. Grab a piece of tape and put it on the last blade and a little onto the olfa knife 4. Push the blade downward; you should hear a confirming 'snap' sound 5. Properly dispose of your old blade For my lighter duty needs: The Olfa XA-1 is the other one I use (9mm version)
I have had MANY "Stud finders" in my life. Recently I have just started using three small RE magnets. Find three screws and find the "best fit" plumb line that aligns with the three magnets and you know you have a stud.
I also really like the mechanism for extending the blade of the Stanley vs the Olfa. Also, those blades are super easy to sharpen, you should hardly ever have to replace them. Between your other video and this one I'm definitely making a great list of things I need.
I use a “cow magnet” to find screws and nails in drywall. They are 1/2-inch diameter and 3-inches long, rare earth magnets. They put them in cows stomachs to keep nails and bits of fence from coming up with their cud.
Someone above suggested using a silicone baking mat for under glue ups. They’re also great for under a hot glue gun, not just wet liquid glue. Also I purchased a number of cheap silicone basting /BBQ brushes at the local dollar store and then trimmed the bristles down to about 1/4” or do (50 or 60 mm) long to make great stiff glue spreaders. Again dried glue comes off. On the same vein I’ve saw an Australian woodworker’s TH-cam channel where he used a cheap silicone cooling spatula for spreading glue on even wider parts. Oh and did I mention that dried glue comes off way. I even use individual silicone muffin cups for mixing 2 part export. And you can guess what happens to dried epoxy …
I use the 1-2-3 blocks almost every time I'm in my shop. They're great for through crosscuts, where you want to use the fence to set up your measurement, but you can't keep the fence in place. You can use these as a block between the fence and your workpiece and you can easily add the 1, 2, or 3" to your measurement on the fence measurement. They're great for making sure the blade is square, for setting up a square saw cut with a pull saw (use a card between the block and the saw), or for making sure that the fence is set properly. They're also great for quickly helping make sure that a drill bit is going in straight. Keep them handy and see if you reach for them in the future.
I heard that the best 1-2-3 block for that purpose is the solid one. It's heavier and don't have holes for the wood to catch. I would've bought one if sell them as single. You really need 1 of them.
I use a kitchen rubber spatula as a glue spreader. It's great on edges or flat surfaces. You don't need to wash it, just let the glue dry, it'll get off easily
Great video. Been watching you for about a year now and you never fail to deliver. Also, saw your video on "6 Ways to Reduce Planer Snipe" and almost didn't recognize you, but you were delivering great info back then as well. Thanks, Red
It's probably just because I work at a Woodcraft store and know what is available, but the roller that goes with the tray is fantastic for spreading woodglue and puts a perfect layer down. Great video Brad, thanks.
I love the Kreg Multi Mark for fastening casing around doors and windows. I don't think you mentioned that there is 3/16" reveal on the back of the Kreg Tool. Simply register the tool against the door/window jamb and then place the casing against the tool and you will get perfect reveals on all sides.
One underrated tool in the wood shop is a handfull of lego bricks. They make great little spacers and they're accurate to some crazy tolerances given they're pennies per brick. Like the world's cheapest gauge blocks. Also a deck of playing cards makes excellent shim stock.
Olfa blades are wonderful but you've got to try the version with the auto-lock instead of the tedious twist-lock version. I suggest the autolock model with the multi-pick feature, it is super handy for scoring cardboard and other jobs that require a thick dull edge. I've worked as an art handler for 10 years and that Olfa is my go to knife.
@@redmeeko I believe if I remember correctly I ordered mine from Amazon or Starrett, I can’t remember but most likely they would be cheaper on Amazon like $20 - $22 for a pair and starrett would probably be a little more.
You can get Olfa knives with the button instead of the dial if that's what you prefer. You also don't take the dial off to change the blade, you just back it off enough for it to clear the stop.
Yes they have multiple styles and sizes. The biggest advantage I feel is that Olfa is made of fiberglass and not plastic. I've dropped mine numerous times and it's tough as S.
I use this gem when drilling out drawer and door fronts of cabinets to make sure the handles/knobs are straight. Can be used to sort out your coffee can of drill bits if it's not etched on the drill itself. It's called the Handheld Drill guide(Milescraft specifically due to rubber footings for non-slip). It's cost is around ~$8. I use this on a daily. Awesome videos. Adding more to my collection after every video. Thank you.
The Pentel GRAPHGEAR is my go to with the .7 I love the weight of those pencils and the safety keeps it from poking your pocket. Thanks for the videos 👍
I have all those suggestion in my shop with the exception of the stud finder. I use the blocks for quick blade set ups more than anything. I've also used it on my router table. I have the pentels deliverd via survive and save. The clip that draws the led back works perfectly if you wear a shop apron because when you press it to clip it in you are automatically drawing in your led. Edited to add my suggestion: the fastcap lefty/righty 16 foot tape measure is the perfect size to keep in the shop and on your person.
I worked in a tire shop for years but the good tread gauges don't use stickers they are actually marked on the shaft not saying they are more accurate but they won't peel off
I have about 10 3-2-1 blocks and 95% of projects I make and sell I used them. So many uses. Been using the straws for glue clean up for 10 years. Works great.
@@Fixthisbuildthat I designed a 24" square planter. The top cap has a 1" overhang. The 1-2-3 blocks help me center the top piece onto the main frame quickly.
@@Fixthisbuildthat I make a lot of smalls and use them to check for square, I've used them with clamps to hold vertical boards to get in tight spots I couldn't use normal clamps or the Kreg pocket hole clamps for screwing in pocket holes, I use them for table saw and bandsaw alignment, clamp them to the TS fence for stop and start blocks that you know you will 1-2-3 inches for whatever you're cutting, I use 4 of them stacked to tram my CNC machine when I put a new spoil board on, I'll use them to help me nail or screw boards with seams that I need perfectly lined up ect...and a ton of other things. I hadn't watched the full video yea when I commented but you showed one the most used tools I use since 2010 with that Kreg Multi-Mark measuring tool. I use that in every project as well. Really good vid of simple tools that have crazy amounts of uses.
Thanks! I'm a full-time handyman. I have 2 of the Pica green pencils and I use them every day. The StudBuddy is NOT as good as the C.H. Hanson Stud Finder - it's MUCH stronger. Love 1-2-3 blocks! Thanks again!
On the kreg multi mark it’s also used for setting the reveal on trim molding. That is why it’s stepped on the back side of it. So it has more value then just marking lines in the shop.
I can't even use a stud finder. Love it when people mention "colors," then give a few examples for anyone who is having trouble following along. Like green or blue.
I have been using a Graph Gear 500 in .9 lead size as a construction pencil for years. The .9 is quite a bit sturdier and will hold up to writing across grain etc. It also shows up on metal pretty well and does not get ruined by grease, oil, etc. I may have to check out one of those 1000 models for the other features, the 500 has a bit of a pointy end.
@@kylekinsey2624 Just received my order from Jet Pens. Yes the 1000 is worth the extra money. That is a bomber writing instrument. I use it with HB lead and can write on about anything including glass.
Hello Brad, I was wondering if you would mix the two worlds and 3D print the set up block you mentioned. It's able to be scaled to 3/4'" x 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" and can be easily reprinted if damaged.
For snapoff utility knives, I really like the NT Cutter. It doesn't have a locking knob (like your Stanley), and it fits my hand really nice. The locking mechanism on my 5 or 6 different NT Cutters (I have them everywhere in the shop, garage, and house) has never failed. I like it much more than the Stanley one I used to love. Oh, and they're like $8.
I've used my set of 1-2-3 blocks for things from tramming my CNC for squareness to setting my table saw blade square with the table. They're surprisingly handy!
1=2=3 blocks are great for quick jigs on a drill press as you can secure them quickly via the threaded holes to the table. They are also incredibly useful holding things to a CNC table surface.
I always have a couple by my CNC. I use them for a lot including using them as touch plates to set my z-zero. Gotta love a conductive surface that is exactly 1" thick!
I use Eanosic (from amazon) setup blocks in conjunction with my 1-2-3 blocks. They come in fractional sizes. So you can use them with the 1-2-3 block to get those 1.5, 2.5, etc size measurements.
Lived in Japan for a long time, where the Olfa knifes are made, I asked my wife to buy a bunch of them the last time she went back and visited. The knife you demonstrated was the cheap one, they make much higher quality knives with a paint can opener on one end, blade storage inside and the locking blade. The blade lock does NOT have to come apart, just loosen it and it will slide out with the blade. I couldn't respectfully disagree with you more about the blade lock, many a time I would be doing a draw cut on material with a non-locking blade and it would get caught in the material and pull the rest of the blade out or snap it off which wastes the blade. The lock stops both from happening and also keeps me from getting cut. To each their own though, some of us are just more right than others...🙂Good video though and great content!
I use WoodRiver Silicone Glue Roller 12.99 at the Franklin Woodcraft, Yes it's my Woodcraft store. Nice folks there. I glue several wide pieces together, spreads glue quickly and evenly. Easy to clean too. Thanks Brad, I hope to meet you at the Woodcraft one day.
I prefer the Tajima to the Olfa, similar 25mm/1" blades, also with a screw but can loosen and tighten to move just with thumb movement and no little spring clip. I also love the carbide edged blades and Tajima make saw blades for them too which are super useful.
Another good thing about the Stanley Knives is they comes in 3 different sizes, 9mm, 18mm, and 22mm. They all great uses, Good choice Brad. Stay safe Brother, Respect from North London UK.
If you like the Pentel graphgear 1000 the rOtring 800 retractable mechanical pencil is on another level! It's the best feeling pencil with a nice solid metal weight and great for fidgeting with the coolest opening mechanism thanks to German engineering.
The Graph Gear pencil comes in other lead sizes, all the way up to .9, just FYI. I think .7 is a pretty good happy medium for bolder lines that don't snap the lead easily while also being precise.
The Graph Gear looks cool. I use the old style yellow pentel .9 for cutting wood and DIY projects. the extra strength is perfect and is still fine enough. Maybe I'll upgrade
I'd put forth the trim buddy, its an awesome tool for setting reveals on door casings and other ¼" reveal projects. It has a built in scribe and a mini level on some of them.
The Pentel Orenz PP505 (second favorite after the GG1000) is not as sturdy or well-engineered but the sleeve retracts while you're writing, making it great for marking fine, accurate, long lines. I use the Orenz (0.5 mm HB) exclusively for fine marking and keep it with my Incra rules and use the GG1000 (0.5 mm HB) as my writing pencil. For lumber/inaccurate marking, I use a Staedtler Mars 780 (2mm 2H).
I use a pentel draftsman "lead holder." I have four of them in different colors for different contrast on material. They have a sharpener in the cap, which is very nice.
I can't remember who it was (I thought it was you but apparently not) but they used heart shape novelty straws from amazon to get clue out. The shape was perfect for getting glue out of corners. Fast food places are always giving me too many straws so I've never had to buy any so far even while using this trick.
Home depot sells husk brand verneer calipers for $10, as well as a WEN brand digital calipers. A cheap set of calipers is great for a hobbyist woodworker or somebody just starting out. Checking hole depth, ensuring interior measurements, or checking the size of parts will save you SO much trial an error.
I’ve had three of those .5mm pencils. Just wait until you drop it. Yeah, the tip might be protected, but the lead isn’t. It breaks into several pieces, which you then need to dig out. PITA. I love its design, it feels good in my hand, and it draws beautiful lines on wood. Then I drop it, and hate it. Maybe I should install carpet my garage.
Excellent tips, Brad! Really great tools! 😃 About the 1-2-3 blocks... I've been searching for them in stainless steel or aluminum, because here steel rusts faster than me when I hear that the launch is ready. 😬 So... You could make them out of wood! Any size you want and you don't even need the holes. That's what I'm going to do. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi Brad, I use a Fiskars 770210-1001 Pro Utility Knife, 18 mm snap blade. They are $15-$20, easy to change, comes with a snap off tool in the handle that stores the broken off portion, and is very comfortable to use. I was not a fan of OLFA or any others until I borrowed the Fiskars from a friend. It feels solid in the hand like a traditional utility blade. Keep up the great videos.
I use a utility knife with the double ended blades. Found Fiskars blades for that and they practically last forever. I would trust Fiskars for any bladed product for sure. Those things were insanely sharp for so long.
As an engineer myself, I agree, you can never have enough cool mechanical pencils! The graphgear 1000 that you showed does come in .7 and .9 leads as well. I ended up getting the graphgear 500 with .9 lead because it was just as cool, about half the price, and came in a much nicer silver than the yellow of the .9 1000. The 500 did not, however, have the special safety retractable tip :(
The real benefit with the olfa knife is when using hook blades, holds the blade in place better and prevents it from pulling out when cutting. Also you don't need to completely unscrew and disassemble the blade holder to slide it out the back. I use these all day every day roofing and after trying a dozen other knifes the olfa is still best all around.
1-2-3 blocks are super cool. But I prefer 2-3-1 blocks. They’re 2” wide, 3 inches thick, and 1” tall. They cost about $30 more, but I think it’s worth it. 😂
I have been using that exact Olfa for 25 years (book binder). You get to the point where you can adjust it with one hand and I have never even seen that bit of metal you took out to change the blade. Removing it is not required. (love that pencil in your other vid. going to go get one!).
I'm with you on the Olfa knife. It's more complicated than necessary and there's no on-board blade storage. I got used to keeping my thumb on the blade retractor, and almost never have a problem with the blade moving no matter what knife I use.. That said, the Olfa blades are phenomenal. They stay sharp much longer than others I've tried. I know they cost twice as much as some other name brands, but in my experience they last at least twice as long. I also keep a 1-2-3 block at my table saw, and I use it as a stop with my mitre gauge. The beauty of it is I can easily choose how much extra space to leave between the blade and fence depending on the size of the off-cuts. I use one inch most of the time because it's nearly impossible to mess up the math, but I can switch to 3" if I need to.
Those rubber jar opener things for your kitchen - stick um in your vices to get better surface area grip on odd shapes and smooth items - like glass that you can't tighten down hard on. Also their intended function is helpful when you got graphite, oil, grease, etc on your hands already. So handy in the garage too!
Get a Maker Mountains T-shirt: fixthisbuildthat.com/product/maker-mountains-navy-t-shirt/
Better than the stud buddy, the CH Hanson magnetic stud finder, simply because it has a built-in level with the ability to rotate. Just under $10.
FYI, You don't even have to disassemble your stanley knife to get a new blade. push it all the way forward and the old blade will release and you can pull it out the front, then pull the slider all the way back to load a new blade.
See
In some countries it's actually illegal to have a knife of any kind, even if you are a trades person, that you can expose and hide the blade of with one hand.
uni Kuru Toga 0.5 mm High Grade Auto Lead Rotation Mechanical Pencil
The tip rotates, in order to keep a new face on the surface you're working on, thus kinda auto sharpens.
Will admit, for working on wood... maybe doesn't work as well, but for draft work, best mechanical pencil that isn't a Rotring.
To be fair to the tire depth gauge, if you're needing 1/64" accuracy, you're not a woodworker, you're a cellulose machinist, and your projects can never leave the climate-controlled environment they're assembled in. ;)
😂 😂 True
Not completely true. Doing dove tails gaps are hideous and need a lot more accuracy than a picnic table
And wood that's dry enough for your region won't warp like construction lumber or pressure treated. As long as it has a good finish and not going into a home with no Insulation
"cellulose machinist"... perfect... I'm gonna steal this.
@@woodworkingandepoxy643 Eh, a good router and jig were good enough for Norm on dovetails.
You don’t need to take the wheel off to change the blade on the Olfa. Just loosen past where it catches on the body. At that’s how mine works.
Yeah, changing blades on the Olfa is at least as fast as on the Stanley if you don't overcomplicate it by completely removing the knob and spring.
Came to say the same thing. Something to add, though, is that Olfa blades are known to be thicker/stronger, making them more useful for people that cut thicker materials like foam boards, insulation, etc. You essentially have a long disposable knife that holds up better than trying to do the same with regular snap off blades. The front support is also supposed to be helpful in supporting the blade as it flexes, letting it flex without breaking better than others, though I can't vouch for that.
Haha, I was coming here to say that too, as someone who uses one almost daily. And I bought a diamond sharpening pad which I use to resharpen the blades while they're still installed, because I'm cheap AF.
@@DavZell Olfa also has the black "high carbon" blades that last a lot longer
Also, as a parent of two small children, i really like that I can properly lock the blade :)
The best feature about the Pentel pencil is that when you retract the tip and then re-extend it, the lead stays at the previous position so you don’t have to click until you get it where you were using it before. This might seem trivial, but it’s great if you are holding something and don’t want to look away to set the lead extension to where it’s usable.
Nice. I used pencils in school but don't need them now. I like the idea of protecting the tip from bending which has happened more than stabbing myself that one time
While it appears to be a very rugged metal bodied construction, you do need to take care not to drop it to the floor because the middle joint is plastic and can fracture.
My favorite part of the design is the clip, which allows it to accommodate thick pocket material easily and holds securely. Retraction mechanism has a nice solid click that serves as a fidget toy to boot 🙃
@@thealchemist5376 what does the replacement collar do?
@@dubmob151 It replaces the plastic collar (the part under the grip and which connects to the main body) with an aluminium one, or whichever material you want. Much more sturdy!
@@thealchemist5376 that's just the ticket for making it perfect 👍
Being a retired Tool and Die maker I used 1 2 3 blocks a lot in making dies so I dragged my blocks out and started using them for woodworking as a hobby. They do come in fairly handy in fact I use quite a few of my Tool and Die tools such as squares and measuring tools. But my woodworking skills aren't nearly as good as my machining skills were. Keep up the great videos.
One of my favourites is a combo of dollar store craft foam and double- sided tape. Use the tape to stick sandpaper to the foam - I typically cut them approx 2" × 3" unless for something specific. These are great for sanding small or tight areas where you would probably otherwise just grab a scrap of sandpaper and try to fold it to give it some substance, only to have the paper getting frustratingly crumbled before the grit or job is done. This way is easier to grip, flex into and around spaces, and lasts longer. You can also use a permanent marker to write the grit on the foam.
I’m surprised nobody has mentioned a 5-in-1 painters tool yet. As a carpenter, that’s one of my most used tools! Great for scraping, prying, chiseling, or, y’know, painter things too probably
mine also has a bottle opener as well. great tool
Agree
Yup. Very handy.
@@whasian1487 well now that is a 6-in-1
He actually had one in his previous video
For mixing up just a little bit of epoxy, the best thing I've found is something you had in the video.
Just flip a Dew can upside down and use the bottom.
I liked the straw approach to dealing with glue in tight places. Straws and other single use plastics are being banned in many jurisdictions. Suggest DIY'ers consider using the V-notch tool that comes with silicone placement and removal kits. This tool is reusable and will help to keep plastics out of landfills and the environment.
Indeed I'd rather wet a paper towel and toss it after I couldn't get anymore use. At least that won't take 500 years to biodegrade. The other problem with these single use plastics is that they become part of our beaches as plastic shards and pebbles.
What he should really be buying is paper straws if he wants something disposable. You can buy 200 packs for about $7. Or a 600 pack(Kingseal brand on Amazon) for $10.
Totally agree with the issue of single-use plastics. That said, straws are handy since when you've got a glue-up with clamps, straws will allow you to come in from the side(s) in tight spaces to get the glue before it sets. Nick's idea of paper straws might work but I haven't tried it.
Straw/Glue Tip:
If you wait for the glue to slightly dry to a putty consistency, the straws work even better!
Can't buy plastic straws in Australia - not environmentally friendly!! Sheesh, as if that is going to save the world.
@@michaelobrien4259 Same thing in Canada. Only paper straws now.
@@NorthVanDukeOfDirt I was coming too look for/leave this kind of comment. I didn't want to be that guy either, as I use straws all the time (I don't like single use plastics and try to wash/reuse what I can), but I'd like to know if paper straws would work as well in this application.
Now that I think about it, one straw could probably be used for this many times though. After use, just cut off the used tip and throw out. Probably only really uses about a 1/4 in of the straw with each use.
Best idea of the year. 1-2-3 block in nominal lumber sizes. Brilliant.
Glue bottles!
The Glubot (made by fast cap) is a total game changer.
I also like the Rockler glue bottle that has a roller built into the lid. The glue dispenses directly onto the roller, so it's really easy to spread around.
We use 1 2 3 blocks a lot in prop/costumes making. They are great for everything, even down to using them as pattern weights when you are tracing out your patterns.
One of my favorite oddball cheap tools is a hemostat. Cheap ones from the cheapo tool store are like $7, but usually have a sloppy pivot and the jaws don't line up well. Spend a few bucks more on a well made pair and the are the best needle nose pliers.
I think what you really want more than a hemostat are surgical needle holders. They are far sturdier and have a better grip.
Just want to say thank you for running an extremely relevant sponsored segment (rather than garbage I needed to fast-forward through). A really cool-looking store I've never heard of with lots of pictures of the inside and some fun/cheap/useful products they have there. It was perfect.
The Kreg marking tool also has a recess that enables you to space door trim around a frame.
Oh, nice little hidden feature!
That is a great feature!
Right after your video, I found a Woodcraft store about 15 minutes from my house (I must have passed by it 100 times). What a great store. I'm glad I saw your video.
I used 1-2-3 blocks all the time to run a CNC router table. They work great with T nuts in aluminum extrusion as backstops and clamps, and you can also make your workholding clamps much sturdier if you use the 123 in place of a long bolt for clamping down thicker pieces. I was carving vacuum form mold bucks to make automotive trim pieces at an armored car factory, and they are also great as a quick way to offset a measurement, so maybe you are using a stack of gauge blocks to build up your 3/4", but then you need 1 3/4, you can plunk the block in and quickly extend your measure, set your fence, and it saves you time(at that plant we had a machine shop as well as the wood shop, so I milled myself a pair of "nominal lumber" 1-2-3s as well for dealing with 2x4s and the like, too, and you are right, that is pretty handy in a wood shop, but I also had a laser there I used to make all sorts of nice metal woodworking jigs out of armor scraps).
I'm an old machinist, love my 123 blocks...use on mill, drill press, lathe, surface plate set ups.....
Kudos to the way you've merged your sponsor in here.
One of the only sponsor breaks i didnt skip so far and i know youtoube from its beginnings
Just a suggestion. To spread glue on larger surfaces, I use cards - hotel key cards, cruise cards, old membership cards, etc. You can also use expired credit cards, but be sure to put them up or shred before tossing. They are easy, free, and work great. And they also clean up easily if you want to reuse them. Great video. I'll be buying few of those goodies.
I didn't think I had a suggestion, but it turns out I do! You - and many of us - use the little Dixie cups for mixing and pouring small quantities of glue or paint or whatever. But, when you need to mix a small amount of epoxy, you simply cannot beat a plastic spoon. Used in conjunction with a toothpick (or one of those coffee stirrers, the bowl provides the perfect shape for mixing and encouraging the catalytic action. Grab one out of the back of your utensil drawer (from the last time you got take-out) and give it a try!
Great video, as a machinist I used 1-2-3 blocks at work at all the time. Then when I started working on my house and doing other projects, i found them very useful around the house as well. I've been legitimately surprised at the quality or some of the ones i've bought for cheap online. They aren't quite as good as ones i've made or high end ones i've bought, but I don't need them to be within .0001" for house projects.
Yes, agreed. I was pleseantly surprised by the squareness
I've never been a machinist but I bought 123 blocks and they have been handy in some unexpected ways. Also makes a reasonable guide for drilling square.
I found myself using 123 blocks as paper weights in my shop for when plans wanted to roll themselves up. So my son, who uses mostly exocit wood in his work made me some 123 blocks out of some purple heart and Lignum vite. Not particularly accurate but nice to have and better to use as paper weights.
Yeah I didn't know people used them outside of machining
3-2-1 blocks are machined within hundreds, thousandths, or ten thousandths of an inch so that you can set your tool offsets when using a CNC machine or just making sure you have your tool set up properly if you have a regular end mill
Just make sure to remove it from the table after using it lol
I've seen people crash machines from leaving one in a machine before they ran it
They're not really made for woodworking, so unless you're using it for something like setting up a planer or router table you're probably better off using a scrap piece of wood
@@raidzeromatt I think you missed the point, they have many uses outside machining.
123 blocks are great for offset blocks for doing cross cuts on the table saw. Know that you just are losing one inch when you setup the fence (so add one inch to the fence setting) and that way you can safely use the fence + block, remove block and then cross cut with a miter guide. I also use them for setting up on chop saws as an off set block against my stop block.
If you happen to have a DeWalt 20V trim router, the radius of the fixed base is exactly 2" from the center of the bit. So a set of 1-2-3 blocks works perfectly for setting up an edge guide for dados.
Great tip. I didn’t know that. I keep a 123 block at the table saw with one of those Rockler hook clamps. I drop it over the fence for an exact 1” offset when I’m using my miter gauge.
Nice tip!
One tool accessory that I love for spray painting is the Rust Oleum "High Performance Comfort Spray Grip Accessory". Last I checked, it's about $11.50 at Home Depot and makes spray painting anything so much easier!
I have, I believe that exact Olfal knife. You do NOT need to completely unscrew the bits from under the wheel to remove the blade stub for replacement. Once the wheel is loose enough, it just slides out the back and you hook on another blade.
A case of operator error. The olfa is simply better.
The pencil is a drafting pencil. The metal tip, one, supports the lead to help prevent easy breaking and so you don't get lead on your drafting rulers and other tools since those tools are typically slightly elevated from the surface of the paper.
Regarding Olfa. I only use 2 types:
For Heavy Duty, the LA-X model -- NOT the one with the spinning dial. The LA-X model has the prying end that has SO many practical uses.
To change the blade: try this instead:
1. Retract down to the last blade
2. If you're facing the dial (the front face), flip it so the 'back face' is pointed in the upward direction
3. Grab a piece of tape and put it on the last blade and a little onto the olfa knife
4. Push the blade downward; you should hear a confirming 'snap' sound
5. Properly dispose of your old blade
For my lighter duty needs: The Olfa XA-1 is the other one I use (9mm version)
I have had MANY "Stud finders" in my life. Recently I have just started using three small RE magnets. Find three screws and find the "best fit" plumb line that aligns with the three magnets and you know you have a stud.
I also really like the mechanism for extending the blade of the Stanley vs the Olfa. Also, those blades are super easy to sharpen, you should hardly ever have to replace them. Between your other video and this one I'm definitely making a great list of things I need.
You sharpen them ? Lmao
Good info, Brad. I'm glad you liked the Multi Mark. See you next video.
Bill
I use a “cow magnet” to find screws and nails in drywall. They are 1/2-inch diameter and 3-inches long, rare earth magnets. They put them in cows stomachs to keep nails and bits of fence from coming up with their cud.
The 123 blocks are a tool you never knew you needed until you get them! Love them lol
Someone above suggested using a silicone baking mat for under glue ups. They’re also great for under a hot glue gun, not just wet liquid glue.
Also I purchased a number of cheap silicone basting /BBQ brushes at the local dollar store and then trimmed the bristles down to about 1/4” or do (50 or 60 mm) long to make great stiff glue spreaders. Again dried glue comes off.
On the same vein I’ve saw an Australian woodworker’s TH-cam channel where he used a cheap silicone cooling spatula for spreading glue on even wider parts. Oh and did I mention that dried glue comes off way.
I even use individual silicone muffin cups for mixing 2 part export. And you can guess what happens to dried epoxy …
I use the 1-2-3 blocks almost every time I'm in my shop. They're great for through crosscuts, where you want to use the fence to set up your measurement, but you can't keep the fence in place. You can use these as a block between the fence and your workpiece and you can easily add the 1, 2, or 3" to your measurement on the fence measurement. They're great for making sure the blade is square, for setting up a square saw cut with a pull saw (use a card between the block and the saw), or for making sure that the fence is set properly. They're also great for quickly helping make sure that a drill bit is going in straight. Keep them handy and see if you reach for them in the future.
I heard that the best 1-2-3 block for that purpose is the solid one. It's heavier and don't have holes for the wood to catch. I would've bought one if sell them as single. You really need 1 of them.
I use a kitchen rubber spatula as a glue spreader. It's great on edges or flat surfaces. You don't need to wash it, just let the glue dry, it'll get off easily
The silicone ones are even better.
Great video. Been watching you for about a year now and you never fail to deliver. Also, saw your video on "6 Ways to Reduce Planer Snipe" and almost didn't recognize you, but you were delivering great info back then as well.
Thanks,
Red
The studbuddy has advantages: it's big and colorful so you can find it. Its strong magnet has a cover so it won't stick to other tools in the toolbox.
It's probably just because I work at a Woodcraft store and know what is available, but the roller that goes with the tray is fantastic for spreading woodglue and puts a perfect layer down. Great video Brad, thanks.
I love the Kreg Multi Mark for fastening casing around doors and windows. I don't think you mentioned that there is 3/16" reveal on the back of the Kreg Tool. Simply register the tool against the door/window jamb and then place the casing against the tool and you will get perfect reveals on all sides.
I have had the Olfa for over 20 years and still going strong. Can't beat it.
One underrated tool in the wood shop is a handfull of lego bricks. They make great little spacers and they're accurate to some crazy tolerances given they're pennies per brick. Like the world's cheapest gauge blocks.
Also a deck of playing cards makes excellent shim stock.
That Kreg multi tool also has two sized lips along the edges for doing door casing. Works great.
Olfa blades are wonderful but you've got to try the version with the auto-lock instead of the tedious twist-lock version. I suggest the autolock model with the multi-pick feature, it is super handy for scoring cardboard and other jobs that require a thick dull edge. I've worked as an art handler for 10 years and that Olfa is my go to knife.
I used 1-2-3 blocks for years as a machinist and they are very handy and yes I have a set on my workbench and use them often for a variety of things!
Where do you buy them?
@@redmeeko I believe if I remember correctly I ordered mine from Amazon or Starrett, I can’t remember but most likely they would be cheaper on Amazon like $20 - $22 for a pair and starrett would probably be a little more.
You can get Olfa knives with the button instead of the dial if that's what you prefer. You also don't take the dial off to change the blade, you just back it off enough for it to clear the stop.
😂 😂 That makes a lot more sense
Yes they have multiple styles and sizes. The biggest advantage I feel is that Olfa is made of fiberglass and not plastic. I've dropped mine numerous times and it's tough as S.
I use this gem when drilling out drawer and door fronts of cabinets to make sure the handles/knobs are straight. Can be used to sort out your coffee can of drill bits if it's not etched on the drill itself. It's called the Handheld Drill guide(Milescraft specifically due to rubber footings for non-slip). It's cost is around ~$8. I use this on a daily.
Awesome videos. Adding more to my collection after every video. Thank you.
The Pentel GRAPHGEAR is my go to with the .7
I love the weight of those pencils and the safety keeps it from poking your pocket.
Thanks for the videos 👍
Brad, you'd be proud of me. Finally bit the bullet and bought a sawstop. Just the 3hp cabinet saw, but i love it
Your fingers and hands are more proud of you 😀👍
I have all those suggestion in my shop with the exception of the stud finder. I use the blocks for quick blade set ups more than anything. I've also used it on my router table. I have the pentels deliverd via survive and save. The clip that draws the led back works perfectly if you wear a shop apron because when you press it to clip it in you are automatically drawing in your led.
Edited to add my suggestion: the fastcap lefty/righty 16 foot tape measure is the perfect size to keep in the shop and on your person.
I agree 25 or 30 is just too bulky.
I have that exact same combination square tool and it actually belonged to my grand father before, he gave it to me and i use it alot now!
The 1-2-3 blocks are also useful to check the accuracy of your weight scale.
I bought a set of two. I have one on my bench. I also glued a magnet to my table saw and the other one lives there.
Thanks for making this video. The Kreg Multi-Mark and the Pica mechanical pencil are just what I could use together.
I worked in a tire shop for years but the good tread gauges don't use stickers they are actually marked on the shaft not saying they are more accurate but they won't peel off
Yeah, those were obviously the absolute bottom of the barrel
Great video Brad! The $5 glue bin is awesome. Reuse is key. No more waste! Awesome! My partner creates jewelry, this will be a lifesaver!
I have about 10 3-2-1 blocks and 95% of projects I make and sell I used them. So many uses. Been using the straws for glue clean up for 10 years. Works great.
What's your favorite use for the 1-2-3?
@@Fixthisbuildthat I designed a 24" square planter. The top cap has a 1" overhang. The 1-2-3 blocks help me center the top piece onto the main frame quickly.
@@Fixthisbuildthat I make a lot of smalls and use them to check for square, I've used them with clamps to hold vertical boards to get in tight spots I couldn't use normal clamps or the Kreg pocket hole clamps for screwing in pocket holes, I use them for table saw and bandsaw alignment, clamp them to the TS fence for stop and start blocks that you know you will 1-2-3 inches for whatever you're cutting, I use 4 of them stacked to tram my CNC machine when I put a new spoil board on, I'll use them to help me nail or screw boards with seams that I need perfectly lined up ect...and a ton of other things. I hadn't watched the full video yea when I commented but you showed one the most used tools I use since 2010 with that Kreg Multi-Mark measuring tool. I use that in every project as well. Really good vid of simple tools that have crazy amounts of uses.
@@Fixthisbuildthat - I'm not a woodworker, but I could see using 2 sets when making drawers. Pop one in each corner to check for square.
I've been using a graph gear since freshman year of college and have been using one ever since (12+yrs). Best mechanical pencil ever. Period.
Thanks! I'm a full-time handyman.
I have 2 of the Pica green pencils and I use them every day.
The StudBuddy is NOT as good as the C.H. Hanson Stud Finder - it's MUCH stronger.
Love 1-2-3 blocks!
Thanks again!
I spit my drink when you fired that shot at Lowe’s 😂
Me too! Had to call the wife in to see that one!
I was searching for the block's names for ages. Thanks to the community!!! ✨✨
On the kreg multi mark it’s also used for setting the reveal on trim molding. That is why it’s stepped on the back side of it. So it has more value then just marking lines in the shop.
I can't even use a stud finder.
Love it when people mention "colors," then give a few examples for anyone who is having trouble following along. Like green or blue.
Great video! A can of paste wax can be really handy for lots of jobs - waxing a table saw top, assisting screws going into hardwoods, etc.
I have also used a block of parifin (Gulf Wax) or an old candle.
I have been using a Graph Gear 500 in .9 lead size as a construction pencil for years. The .9 is quite a bit sturdier and will hold up to writing across grain etc. It also shows up on metal pretty well and does not get ruined by grease, oil, etc.
I may have to check out one of those 1000 models for the other features, the 500 has a bit of a pointy end.
I have had both and the 1000 is significantly better
@@kylekinsey2624 Just received my order from Jet Pens. Yes the 1000 is worth the extra money. That is a bomber writing instrument. I use it with HB lead and can write on about anything including glass.
1-2-3 blocks are awesome. The .75-1.5-2.5 blocks would be FANTASTICK!
Hello Brad,
I was wondering if you would mix the two worlds and 3D print the set up block you mentioned. It's able to be scaled to 3/4'" x 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" and can be easily reprinted if damaged.
I have that stud finder it’s a life saver especially in older homes.
For snapoff utility knives, I really like the NT Cutter. It doesn't have a locking knob (like your Stanley), and it fits my hand really nice. The locking mechanism on my 5 or 6 different NT Cutters (I have them everywhere in the shop, garage, and house) has never failed. I like it much more than the Stanley one I used to love. Oh, and they're like $8.
I've used my set of 1-2-3 blocks for things from tramming my CNC for squareness to setting my table saw blade square with the table. They're surprisingly handy!
1:35 the Graph Gear pencil is available in different lead sizes (each are a different color grips on the pencil, so easy to identify)
1=2=3 blocks are great for quick jigs on a drill press as you can secure them quickly via the threaded holes to the table. They are also incredibly useful holding things to a CNC table surface.
I always have a couple by my CNC. I use them for a lot including using them as touch plates to set my z-zero. Gotta love a conductive surface that is exactly 1" thick!
I use Eanosic (from amazon) setup blocks in conjunction with my 1-2-3 blocks. They come in fractional sizes. So you can use them with the 1-2-3 block to get those 1.5, 2.5, etc size measurements.
Stumpy Nubs has a video on the 1-2-3 blocks very informative and he worked with Taylor Tools to make hardware for them as well.
Lived in Japan for a long time, where the Olfa knifes are made, I asked my wife to buy a bunch of them the last time she went back and visited. The knife you demonstrated was the cheap one, they make much higher quality knives with a paint can opener on one end, blade storage inside and the locking blade. The blade lock does NOT have to come apart, just loosen it and it will slide out with the blade. I couldn't respectfully disagree with you more about the blade lock, many a time I would be doing a draw cut on material with a non-locking blade and it would get caught in the material and pull the rest of the blade out or snap it off which wastes the blade. The lock stops both from happening and also keeps me from getting cut. To each their own though, some of us are just more right than others...🙂Good video though and great content!
I use WoodRiver Silicone Glue Roller 12.99 at the Franklin Woodcraft, Yes it's my Woodcraft store. Nice folks there. I glue several wide pieces together, spreads glue quickly and evenly. Easy to clean too. Thanks Brad, I hope to meet you at the Woodcraft one day.
I prefer the Tajima to the Olfa, similar 25mm/1" blades, also with a screw but can loosen and tighten to move just with thumb movement and no little spring clip. I also love the carbide edged blades and Tajima make saw blades for them too which are super useful.
You can just remove the spring on the Olfa and use it the same way. Faster and more convenient to just use the thumb👍
Another good thing about the Stanley Knives is they comes in 3 different sizes, 9mm, 18mm, and 22mm. They all great uses, Good choice Brad. Stay safe Brother, Respect from North London UK.
If you like the Pentel graphgear 1000 the rOtring 800 retractable mechanical pencil is on another level! It's the best feeling pencil with a nice solid metal weight and great for fidgeting with the coolest opening mechanism thanks to German engineering.
1-2-3 blocks rock. A must have for every machinist and a great to have for anyone who does any type of work requiring simple jigs.
The Graph Gear pencil comes in other lead sizes, all the way up to .9, just FYI. I think .7 is a pretty good happy medium for bolder lines that don't snap the lead easily while also being precise.
The Graph Gear looks cool. I use the old style yellow pentel .9 for cutting wood and DIY projects. the extra strength is perfect and is still fine enough. Maybe I'll upgrade
I'd put forth the trim buddy, its an awesome tool for setting reveals on door casings and other ¼" reveal projects. It has a built in scribe and a mini level on some of them.
The Pentel Orenz PP505 (second favorite after the GG1000) is not as sturdy or well-engineered but the sleeve retracts while you're writing, making it great for marking fine, accurate, long lines. I use the Orenz (0.5 mm HB) exclusively for fine marking and keep it with my Incra rules and use the GG1000 (0.5 mm HB) as my writing pencil. For lumber/inaccurate marking, I use a Staedtler Mars 780 (2mm 2H).
I use a pentel draftsman "lead holder." I have four of them in different colors for different contrast on material. They have a sharpener in the cap, which is very nice.
1-2-3 blocks are pretty useful. Use them for QC measurements running a microvu to inspect parts at work.
I can't remember who it was (I thought it was you but apparently not) but they used heart shape novelty straws from amazon to get clue out. The shape was perfect for getting glue out of corners. Fast food places are always giving me too many straws so I've never had to buy any so far even while using this trick.
I bought my 1-2-3 block when I was working as a CNC machine operator but I use them in the wood shop all the time.
Great info on the tools. Also, I'm not gonna lie, I'll be *so* glad when the fad of inserting movie clips into TH-cam videos has ended.
😂 😂 I can see it fading in time. But I still find it fun to rehash old movies I loved
Home depot sells husk brand verneer calipers for $10, as well as a WEN brand digital calipers. A cheap set of calipers is great for a hobbyist woodworker or somebody just starting out. Checking hole depth, ensuring interior measurements, or checking the size of parts will save you SO much trial an error.
I’ve had three of those .5mm pencils. Just wait until you drop it. Yeah, the tip might be protected, but the lead isn’t. It breaks into several pieces, which you then need to dig out. PITA. I love its design, it feels good in my hand, and it draws beautiful lines on wood. Then I drop it, and hate it. Maybe I should install carpet my garage.
They make that Graph Gear pen in 0.9mm also. Maybe even something bigger. I have it in 0.9mm.
With the 123 Blocks, they're also very good at keeping things positioned due to the weight and in maintaining a 90 degree angle or a full corner
i really like the incra tiny t for marking joinery. its nice, accurate, has very fine markings and only runs around 20 bucks.
The tiny T will make use of that .5 pentel mechanical pencil for sure!
Tiny-T Rocks!!
Kreg jig sets the reveal on the back for window and door trim. Super handy
Excellent tips, Brad! Really great tools! 😃
About the 1-2-3 blocks... I've been searching for them in stainless steel or aluminum, because here steel rusts faster than me when I hear that the launch is ready. 😬
So... You could make them out of wood! Any size you want and you don't even need the holes. That's what I'm going to do. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
That's an interesting idea! Bet some Ipe ones would be stout
@@Fixthisbuildthat Exactly! Then all you need is to mark them with the measurements. Laser would work great for that, but even a sharpie can do. 😉
@@MCsCreations I have the same problem with rust here. I'm in Panama, hot and humid. Oh and let's not forget to say hello.
@@koconnor Hello there! 😊
But yeah, I'm from Brazil. It doesn't get any better here, specially because the beach is 3 blocks from here. 😕
Hi Brad, I use a Fiskars 770210-1001 Pro Utility Knife, 18 mm snap blade. They are $15-$20, easy to change, comes with a snap off tool in the handle that stores the broken off portion, and is very comfortable to use. I was not a fan of OLFA or any others until I borrowed the Fiskars from a friend. It feels solid in the hand like a traditional utility blade. Keep up the great videos.
I use a utility knife with the double ended blades. Found Fiskars blades for that and they practically last forever. I would trust Fiskars for any bladed product for sure. Those things were insanely sharp for so long.
As an engineer myself, I agree, you can never have enough cool mechanical pencils! The graphgear 1000 that you showed does come in .7 and .9 leads as well. I ended up getting the graphgear 500 with .9 lead because it was just as cool, about half the price, and came in a much nicer silver than the yellow of the .9 1000. The 500 did not, however, have the special safety retractable tip :(
The real benefit with the olfa knife is when using hook blades, holds the blade in place better and prevents it from pulling out when cutting. Also you don't need to completely unscrew and disassemble the blade holder to slide it out the back. I use these all day every day roofing and after trying a dozen other knifes the olfa is still best all around.
1-2-3 blocks are super cool. But I prefer 2-3-1 blocks. They’re 2” wide, 3 inches thick, and 1” tall. They cost about $30 more, but I think it’s worth it. 😂
Maybe s 1-3-2 block?? 😂😂
I have been using that exact Olfa for 25 years (book binder). You get to the point where you can adjust it with one hand and I have never even seen that bit of metal you took out to change the blade. Removing it is not required. (love that pencil in your other vid. going to go get one!).
I'm with you on the Olfa knife. It's more complicated than necessary and there's no on-board blade storage. I got used to keeping my thumb on the blade retractor, and almost never have a problem with the blade moving no matter what knife I use.. That said, the Olfa blades are phenomenal. They stay sharp much longer than others I've tried. I know they cost twice as much as some other name brands, but in my experience they last at least twice as long.
I also keep a 1-2-3 block at my table saw, and I use it as a stop with my mitre gauge. The beauty of it is I can easily choose how much extra space to leave between the blade and fence depending on the size of the off-cuts. I use one inch most of the time because it's nearly impossible to mess up the math, but I can switch to 3" if I need to.
Those rubber jar opener things for your kitchen - stick um in your vices to get better surface area grip on odd shapes and smooth items - like glass that you can't tighten down hard on.
Also their intended function is helpful when you got graphite, oil, grease, etc on your hands already. So handy in the garage too!
The cabinet installers I hired used that “Stud Buddy” and the guy drilled a hole right through a waterline Messing up all the drywall work I did. 😡