Little tip, lots of Freelander 2 users have found is to press the start button without pressing the brake pedal first. Then press brake pedal and start button to start vehicle. This allows all the ecu's to fire up with a full charge, not a cranking charge which will be at a lower voltage which causes ecu problems.
Hi John, I’ve got the exact same model & spec as your FL2. I recently had similar faults flag up and after doing my own research it was pointing towards the haldex system. I took the entire unit off and used a servicing kit which replaced the internal oil filter amongst other bits. After doing this I’ve had no issues at all.
Thanks @joshblades. Although the issue seems to have self sorted for the last couple of months (I think this is due to warmer weather and better battery condition) I think doing the same as you would be very worthwhile. Also want to see if i can check the solder joints inside the controller.
I did the same with mine, I actually replaced the haldex as the fluids that came out were... Interesting. It didn't help I snapped the impeller shaft, is that the right terminology? Absolutely no requirement for me to get into that part but curiosity killed the impeller shaft.
I had similar faults. Turned out to be a faulty Starter Solenoid, and the Haldex unit needed servicing. The Haldex Printed Circuit board is also prone to dry solder joints as well. An old battery often gives a whole plethoria of fault codes due to low cranking voltage, the system needs to crank at over nine volts. Its a typical fault on many Landrover models.
The control unit is on the side of the Haldex Unit. Before getting too involved, one needs to interogate the whole system for Haldex specific DTM's hidden by most code Readers. First, service, the Haldex, Not easy with the DPF filter exhaust.Drop the Exhaust and Propshaft out of the way. Remove the Haldex Unit, after draining all oils. Follow, online tutorials, And follow Volvo service procedures, online. One needs the car up high. Once the Haldex and Differencial are Known to be sound, drive the car and re-check the codes. If now clear, should be OK. If not, then you will have to do it all over again and remove the module. Module repairs are online, but, it will need reprogramming. I had it all done with the new diff. by a local specialist, not cheap, but guaranteed.
I got same car, got fuse keep blowing taking break lights out and won’t start. Replaced both switches under pedal with no results 🙈 had 3 auto electricians scratching their heads too 🙈
I think I'll stay with the chitty-chitty, bang-bang clan fix with spanner and hammer (Freelander 1). They have electrics, but no where near as many and complicated as FL2's.
Have you tried wiggling the module connectors in case there is a loose connection? I had a similar poor network connection throwing similar codes in my X100. Turned out to be a network connection on the gear selector PCB, caused by me trying to remove the non removable plug when changing bulbs a couple of years before!!
@@ToTheGarage no problem, my intermittent fault on my 2010 SD4 was similar to yours except it was stopping me getting shifter out of park, I eliminated Haldex by removing the fuse and then had both brake operated switches replaced yesterday. I’ve opened up the old switches to investigate and found gunk on the contacts in the speed inhibitor switch. I guess this has come from years of occasional moisture in the footwell. Hopefully that’s my problem sorted now.
I also often have an electronic problem. Unfortunately, the many test devices don't always help; a workshop has to solve the problem. They often have an advantage because they use compact measuring devices .That is my experience. But I'm also a layman when it comes to car electrics. I can solve mechanical problems better. I wish you continued success.
Little tip, lots of Freelander 2 users have found is to press the start button without pressing the brake pedal first. Then press brake pedal and start button to start vehicle.
This allows all the ecu's to fire up with a full charge, not a cranking charge which will be at a lower voltage which causes ecu problems.
Excellent and interesting tip. Thanks👍
What an elegantly simple solution
Hi John, I’ve got the exact same model & spec as your FL2. I recently had similar faults flag up and after doing my own research it was pointing towards the haldex system. I took the entire unit off and used a servicing kit which replaced the internal oil filter amongst other bits. After doing this I’ve had no issues at all.
Thanks @joshblades. Although the issue seems to have self sorted for the last couple of months (I think this is due to warmer weather and better battery condition) I think doing the same as you would be very worthwhile. Also want to see if i can check the solder joints inside the controller.
I did the same with mine, I actually replaced the haldex as the fluids that came out were... Interesting. It didn't help I snapped the impeller shaft, is that the right terminology? Absolutely no requirement for me to get into that part but curiosity killed the impeller shaft.
I had similar faults. Turned out to be a faulty Starter Solenoid, and the Haldex unit needed servicing. The Haldex Printed Circuit board is also prone to dry solder joints as well. An old battery often gives a whole plethoria of fault codes due to low cranking voltage, the system needs to crank at over nine volts. Its a typical fault on many Landrover models.
thanks @jagracershoestring609. Is it possible/easy to pop the Haldex control module open to check and desolder?
The control unit is on the side of the Haldex Unit. Before getting too involved, one needs to interogate the whole system for Haldex specific DTM's hidden by most code Readers. First, service, the Haldex, Not easy with the DPF filter exhaust.Drop the Exhaust and Propshaft out of the way. Remove the Haldex Unit, after draining all oils. Follow, online tutorials, And follow Volvo service procedures, online. One needs the car up high. Once the Haldex and Differencial are Known to be sound, drive the car and re-check the codes. If now clear, should be OK. If not, then you will have to do it all over again and remove the module. Module repairs are online, but, it will need reprogramming. I had it all done with the new diff. by a local specialist, not cheap, but guaranteed.
I got same car, got fuse keep blowing taking break lights out and won’t start. Replaced both switches under pedal with no results 🙈 had 3 auto electricians scratching their heads too 🙈
Sold the fka 🙄 got a discovery 👌
When u charged battery did u connect black with black terminal s red with red?
Yes 👍
Shouldn't you have an AGM battery on that car if it has stop start?
It does not have stop start.
I have a 2014 BMW X50i that is likewise well appointed.
Nicely spec'd motors
I think I'll stay with the chitty-chitty, bang-bang clan fix with spanner and hammer (Freelander 1). They have electrics, but no where near as many and complicated as FL2's.
😁👍.
Try changing the brake light switch and the speed inhibitor switch , both are controlled by the brake pedal and are a cheap fix worth ruling out!
Thanks Dark Starr_2030👍
Have you tried wiggling the module connectors in case there is a loose connection? I had a similar poor network connection throwing similar codes in my X100. Turned out to be a network connection on the gear selector PCB, caused by me trying to remove the non removable plug when changing bulbs a couple of years before!!
@@ToTheGarage no problem, my intermittent fault on my 2010 SD4 was similar to yours except it was stopping me getting shifter out of park, I eliminated Haldex by removing the fuse and then had both brake operated switches replaced yesterday. I’ve opened up the old switches to investigate and found gunk on the contacts in the speed inhibitor switch. I guess this has come from years of occasional moisture in the footwell. Hopefully that’s my problem sorted now.
Maté really fascinating
Could tell it wasn’t voltage as it errored before you even cranked it the second time
Keen eye Andy. Cheers👍
I also often have an electronic problem. Unfortunately, the many test devices don't always help; a workshop has to solve the problem. They often have an advantage because they use compact measuring devices .That is my experience. But I'm also a layman when it comes to car electrics. I can solve mechanical problems better. I wish you continued success.
Admit it John. You only went down the Land Rover route because you knew that it was bound to generate content for the channel 🤣
🤔🤣