How much weight will this panel support? I highly doubt that a CB radio will be supported, especially not on rough roads or even worse in a crash scenario.
Think about things like cb or Gmrs or Ham Radio Installs or Accessories like radio speaker mics or Even Extra speakers for Ham Radios or Place to hold knives or Med kits lots of options for this @AMurphy8365
Suggestions for Victory: Needlessly heavy considering it's partially supported by plastic in the front. Go to thinner gauge steel or switch to aluminum. Mine didn't include enough Allen bolts for some reason, or y'all didn't include the kind of bolts for the dome light retention tabs as I was unable to use the same bolts as the installer in your video did. Should have ordered black oxide finished bolts so as to match the black panel. Going to the hardware store today to get replacements and an extra as I'm missing one bolt and nut. No instructions included in the box. Really? A simple hand drawn exploded diagram with packing list and which bolts go where would have sufficed. These half assed TH-cam instruction videos shouldn't be a replacement for a simple diagram and packing list. Build quality is very good. Powdercoating looks great. Suggestions for customers: Wiggle and finesse extra wire length of the dome light before installation. I had to go back and remove the rear roof bracket from the panel and install the bracket to the roof by itself, then reattach the panel after making sure the dome light cleared to the intended opening. Otherwise it would not fit through even if I loosened the bolts. Barely thread the dome light tab bolts on until the dome light is situation in place and slowly tighten each side a little until snug. I went ahead and fished two pairs of 14 gauge wire along with a relatively bulky switch panel connection (round 4 pin from Auxbeam) up from the driver's firewall through the a-pillar and across to the forward center console and back to the dome light opening relatively easily. If you're considering having power to a device on this panel, go ahead and fish your wire before install. I used scrap #12 solid wire THHN as my fish stick. Removing the a-pillar was easy and make sure to route the wire behind the air bag for obvious reasons. Easy enough to slip the wires up along the front edge of the headliner. Took some finesse to get from the front center console to the dome light but possible.
The interior in these trucks don’t give us much to attach to for molle panels. Not sure if an overhead molle option is even feasible without a bunch of work cutting the headliner.
measurement distance the same from crawl control unit to light same as non sun roof models? I don't use my sun roof so I wouldn't mind using this and having more realestate to mount things up high like hand helds and such.
That's a sunglasses holder? What a shame, it's a perfect place to store an extra magazine. Besides that, the off road traction system is located in its place.
You will need to contact customer service so they can help you get exactly what information you are looking for. 269-459-8447 or info@victory4x4.com thank you!
Toyota left me zero slack in the wiring harness.🤬 To much torque to the drivers side and I'll have to pop the headliner along the drivers side rear pass and see if I can get to that wiring and relieve some tension. Hopefully it's got a hold down point I can remove/adjust where it turns before heading to the hatch. I'll get the lense/light housing to sit flush and square come hell or high water...and I've seen both before 😉 I'm going to add a couple soft pouches for daily used items and free up center console storage for other "things".
Did you ever get the wiring for the light to have some slack? Did getting under the headliner work? I have the same issue with the light not wanting to sit flush. Thanks for addressing this.
@M and B Homestead No chance in removing any hold down areas of the harness. I even removed the B pillar trim thinking it could be done. I made it work with some good ole cussing and arms raised above the shoulder kinda torture until it fit. However, I did have to "trim" the clear OEM housing around the edges using a file and sandpaper until it popped into place. Do a little at a time using this method and it should work for ya. Not as easy as the DIY video shows BUT with some patience and good shoulders it can be done. Cheers
I may splice 3 wires in the harness and go with that. It will be tough to solder in the little area but will get me the slack I need. Thanks for the update. Glad it worked for you.
Wanted to update you, I soldered 3 two inch extensions and heat shrank the connections and it is working great, no more tension on the housing. Might use a bit of black tac stuff to hold it in place and still be able to remove the light as needed.
![[DRIP] ‘Woke Up In Tokyo (RUKA & ASA)’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QN44lcR_VkI/mqdefault.jpg)
How much weight will this panel support? I highly doubt that a CB radio will be supported, especially not on rough roads or even worse in a crash scenario.
this looks cool. Just having a hard time finding a practical application for having this overhead instead of/opposed to in the trunk.
Think about things like cb or Gmrs or Ham Radio Installs or Accessories like radio speaker mics or Even Extra speakers for Ham Radios or Place to hold knives or Med kits lots of options for this @AMurphy8365
Suggestions for Victory:
Needlessly heavy considering it's partially supported by plastic in the front. Go to thinner gauge steel or switch to aluminum.
Mine didn't include enough Allen bolts for some reason, or y'all didn't include the kind of bolts for the dome light retention tabs as I was unable to use the same bolts as the installer in your video did.
Should have ordered black oxide finished bolts so as to match the black panel. Going to the hardware store today to get replacements and an extra as I'm missing one bolt and nut.
No instructions included in the box. Really? A simple hand drawn exploded diagram with packing list and which bolts go where would have sufficed. These half assed TH-cam instruction videos shouldn't be a replacement for a simple diagram and packing list.
Build quality is very good. Powdercoating looks great.
Suggestions for customers:
Wiggle and finesse extra wire length of the dome light before installation.
I had to go back and remove the rear roof bracket from the panel and install the bracket to the roof by itself, then reattach the panel after making sure the dome light cleared to the intended opening. Otherwise it would not fit through even if I loosened the bolts.
Barely thread the dome light tab bolts on until the dome light is situation in place and slowly tighten each side a little until snug.
I went ahead and fished two pairs of 14 gauge wire along with a relatively bulky switch panel connection (round 4 pin from Auxbeam) up from the driver's firewall through the a-pillar and across to the forward center console and back to the dome light opening relatively easily. If you're considering having power to a device on this panel, go ahead and fish your wire before install. I used scrap #12 solid wire THHN as my fish stick. Removing the a-pillar was easy and make sure to route the wire behind the air bag for obvious reasons. Easy enough to slip the wires up along the front edge of the headliner. Took some finesse to get from the front center console to the dome light but possible.
Thanks for the thoughts on this!
Great write up and information
What about us with the crawl control unit up front? Same process?
Yes, same process. You will pry out the crawl control section and unplug it. The same two screws are underneath!
Wish this was available for the 3rd and 4th gen 4runners 0:30
When will you have one for a 2019 tacoma? Please and thanks !
Any word if y'all making one for the GMC Canyon?? Would definitely buy one
The interior in these trucks don’t give us much to attach to for molle panels. Not sure if an overhead molle option is even feasible without a bunch of work cutting the headliner.
measurement distance the same from crawl control unit to light same as non sun roof models? I don't use my sun roof so I wouldn't mind using this and having more realestate to mount things up high like hand helds and such.
Yes, the issue with the sunroof is the screws used to mount it under the dome light will contact and scrape the sunroof cover when it is opened.
@@Victory4x4 I wonder if I can just find some low profile nut and bolt set up. Thanks for the clarification.
Will you build this for the Chevy Colorado please?
Is it common for the light to pop out? Seems like mine pops out once I hit a bump.
Check comment above
What about a Tundra?
That cover wasn't foolin, it came RIGHT off.
can y'all make one for 08 tundra double cab?!
Would love to see this for a 2020 tundra!
maybe it fits it??
Good video, thanks for sharing!
That's a sunglasses holder? What a shame, it's a perfect place to store an extra magazine. Besides that, the off road traction system is located in its place.
What is the height/width of the first bend section after the front map lights
You will need to contact customer service so they can help you get exactly what information you are looking for. 269-459-8447 or info@victory4x4.com thank you!
Build one for the 3rd gen taco!!
Soon!
@@Victory4x4 Might as well make one for the 4th gen 4runner while you're at it, I'd buy one
Toyota left me zero slack in the wiring harness.🤬 To much torque to the drivers side and I'll have to pop the headliner along the drivers side rear pass and see if I can get to that wiring and relieve some tension. Hopefully it's got a hold down point I can remove/adjust where it turns before heading to the hatch. I'll get the lense/light housing to sit flush and square come hell or high water...and I've seen both before 😉 I'm going to add a couple soft pouches for daily used items and free up center console storage for other "things".
Did you ever get the wiring for the light to have some slack? Did getting under the headliner work? I have the same issue with the light not wanting to sit flush. Thanks for addressing this.
@M and B Homestead No chance in removing any hold down areas of the harness. I even removed the B pillar trim thinking it could be done. I made it work with some good ole cussing and arms raised above the shoulder kinda torture until it fit. However, I did have to "trim" the clear OEM housing around the edges using a file and sandpaper until it popped into place. Do a little at a time using this method and it should work for ya. Not as easy as the DIY video shows BUT with some patience and good shoulders it can be done. Cheers
I may splice 3 wires in the harness and go with that. It will be tough to solder in the little area but will get me the slack I need. Thanks for the update. Glad it worked for you.
@M and B Homestead Good idea. A soldered/heat shrink butt connector may be your ticket.
Wanted to update you, I soldered 3 two inch extensions and heat shrank the connections and it is working great, no more tension on the housing. Might use a bit of black tac stuff to hold it in place and still be able to remove the light as needed.
Tacoma one would be nice
Soon!