Valley roof construction Noggins
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ม.ค. 2022
- In Valley roof construction it is super important to provide support for the tile or slate batten at the valley roof intersction, in this video I show how to provide suitable support for the valley roof construction with a noggin or grounds to give a solid fixing and support for the roofer
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The breather membrane up the valley is the last line of defence when it comes to a roof leak. It's probably the most vulnerable part of a roof so those noggins are vital.
NEVER EVER put a nail through the membrane anywhere near the valley.
I am constantly amazed by the little things you make on site to make it a little easier to do things one handed and by yourself.
Again, this isn’t about the work, that speaks for itself as always. What Robin is showing here is a consideration for the following trade. He’s putting himself in their shoes and thinking ‘How can I make their life easier?’ This just isn’t real life. Robin is from a different universe of tradesmen. I wanna live there!
Super kind thanks mate, its my passion to share my knowledge and experience to others...
I 100% believe that Robin like all good chippy/builders puts these grounds in because they know it’s a better job not because it makes it easier for the roofer, they tend to not care either way and try to get as many square meters done in a day as possible
@@TheSavagelad I don't think you're quite right there Mark. Like Robin said, the roofers would come along and need to put these grounds in, but that would eat into their time, so he does it during his phase. You're welcome to disagree but doing so does a disservice to Robin's motives here. It makes no difference to the quality of Robin's roof - these grounds are only for the roofers and therefore his motives are, in my opinion, almost solely altruistic.
When I’ve seen these on roofs they do look complicated to cut the angle I always thought there was two angled cuts to make them fit can’t believe how easy it is well you make it look easy 😁😁
....and the roofer will love you!
As usual Robin, very high standards being demonstrated here. Never get bored watching a true craftsman at work.
Honestly... He Is
46 years designing roofs and i'm still learning tricks. Top man.
Man Is Good
Nice little tip there 👍👍
Glad you liked it!
Total perfection with simplicity again.
Simple yet effective. Learning once again. Top stuff Robin!
Where Have You Been All My Life... You Are Just D Man... A Greater You I Pray In JESUS MIGHTY NAME, AMEN.... Ur Simplicity And Easy Explanatory Ways Are Just Beyond Fathoming
I Just Fell In Love Wt Ur Site Now
Thanks Robin.🇬🇧👍🪚
Omg!! I use valley noggings and have always said they're a must to pick up battens and valley boards and minimise and reduce deflection, love your work robin, Can't wait to watch "I'm waiting patiently for another awesome video 🥳💙💙💙 "Happy New year TeamRC"
It's great to see and hear these little hacks.
Sounds as if Your blog is based in the UK. Love Your show! Greetings!! from California! I am recently retired Carpenter/finish.
Always a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanks Robin
Always a pleasure to watch a master at work, thanks Robin, have a fantastic 2022.
Nice one Rob! Always a pleasure to watch.
I can cut roofs and use the roofing square and Trig. But I wish I had the luxury of concentrating on the craft, rather than having to smash it out!. There is a great misunderstanding of the complexity. For example, if you had to use large sections as in other countries you would need to understand planes so bevelling etc. I've picked up some great stuff from Robin. Brilliant from work
Always a work of art, great job!
How good is that?!? Making things so simple. Well done.
Awsome mate, its sometimes the simplest things that make a job a lot easier.
Thanks for sharing all this great knowledge.
No problem 👍
Awesome, I cannot wait for the next episode mate
Thanks Jeff!!
Happy New Year Robin !!! great video
Judiciously applying your noggin is good advice for anyone.
The whole roofing content on this series has literally been pornographic at times! What a structure that is now
Hello Robin,
Brilliant video.
Learning from you, Robin.
The little trick using batten.
Best wishes from Leicester, ENGLAND.
Ahmed
Thanks Ahmed, happy new year mate
Bloody lovely very helpful indeed
Pure genius x
Clever stuff.
Brilliant
Robin the legend
Il take that top tip to the next valley I do 🤟
Get a hkc with frued 160mm or i think its 165mm thin kerf blade 420 rail works good frm experience saves loads of time
Quality work as usual thanks again sir !!!
I was taught at college that there's a third and silent 'g' in Nogging... ;-)
Looking forward to this later.
Good tips and tricks but I have never used noggs. Using Valley tiles on Plains and old Kent's they lay up the valley no problem. A batten runner up each side of the valley tiles. Mitre cut my batterns to the valley batten and fix to that. Nail a batten up the valley to bring your valley tiles up to the right level. Never had a problem doing this and in the numerous old strippers I have re tiled seldom if ever saw valley noggs. Certainly won't hurt anything.
Like a beauty 🥰👍💙
Nice little trick Robin , just wondering about the valley boards , think I remember you saying something about the valley in a earlier video 👍☘️🇮🇪👏
Hi John many thanks for your comment mate, we are using a purpose made valley tile on our roof so we don't need a valley support board on the rafters, if we did then I would position these noggins at the outside of those boards
@@ukconstruction cheers Robin thought it was something like that ok , new year off to a good start 👍☘️🇮🇪👏
Loved that noggin fitting. Is there similar for the gables done with lay boards? I'll keep my eyes peeled in remaining videos. Many thanks.
Thanks for the Video Robin, really loving this series especially the craftsmanship put into the roof. Could I make a suggestion for your editing and reduce the noise when using power tools. As much as I love hearing the tool doing it’s thing, it’s a pain turning the volume up/down to compensate between speaking parts and power tool parts. I have noticed other channels have started to do it and it’s really good to watch a video without holding the remote in my hand waiting to hit the volume trigger.
I will do my best mate
Would you need to do this with doubled up valley rafters?
I haven’t watched all of these videos but I would keen to hear whether Robin would place the rafters bow up or bow down.
Up mate
@@ukconstruction I hear a lot of carpenters saying this these days. With a cut roof I was taught many years ago to put the rafters bow down, then use the purlins to push them all up into line with each other. To this day even when there are no purlins and just collars are used we still put them bow down so that the slates will be tight. “Joists up, Rafters down lad” one of the first things my old mentor said to me.
Podría hacer videos con más contenido
Hi robin, I usually have to put a 6 mm ply rip and 2x2 noggings around the perimeter for the valleys, sometimes inset with 18mm and battens. What are the differences between using ply and using noggins like you have ? Cheers!
Mike. If you were doing a grp or lead valley then yes 18mm ply would be the way to go. But it your doing valley tiles then a noggin is all you need
The comment made by Nick Hayley which you pinned Robin, can I just clarify is he saying a nail itself is never allowed to puncture the breather membrane possibly into the valley rafter, but is ok into the roofing battens and valley noggins which are further back and the membrane would seal around the nail ?Slightly confused.
Well if you can avoid nailing as you mentioned into the valley rafter then any residual moisture/water will run away without potential penetration of the felt as it folds round the valley centre... cheers Robin
One thing I noticed quite a bit is that Robin rarely uses a mitre saw. Significant amount of the cuts were made with a circular saw. Very interesting.
Hi Asad, mitre saws are ok but on site you need to produce quickly and effectively and although a mitre saw is good it is much quicker with a decent circular saw!!
@@ukconstruction It would take a lot longer to try and match the angle you drew on the timber with a mitre saw than just running your circular saw over it. Also, I suppose cordless circular saw can go anywhere whereas mitre saw would have to be setup somewhere.
A lot easier than the site nhbc requirement 18mm ply 300mm rips sat flush with rafter tops nightmare & totally over the top considering a dry valley system 🤔
I'd say do what's best for you on the job. With that many noggings I would personally use a mitre saw, but it's what suits the individual working. As long as the finish is good is all that matters 👌🏻 nice work RC 👍🏻
A small roof can be cut very quickly and accurately with a sliding mitre saw. Once one gets into longer rafters a Skil saw is the way to go. Preferably two of them, one for each end. Both cordless, one blade left and one blade right, 👍 🔨 🇮🇪
Robin have you released your square yet ??
Double or triple on the valley rafters is a better solution.
You should do a video on how to cut and pitch valley rafters in I struggle to find the angle for the angled cut at the bottom of my rafter that goes into the roof
You mean the seat cut on the valley rafter that sits on the plate??
The seat cut on the valley rafter is about 7 degrees less than the commons. (So on a 25 degree roof it’s 18 degrees)
Not the plumb cut that sits on the ridge the cut that goes down onto the plate onto the roof
@@cameronhesling6189 The birds mouth consists of a seat cut which is level and parallel to the top of the wall plate and a heel cut which is plumb and parallel to the face of the ridge. The heel cut and seat cut are ninety degrees to one another.
@@cameronhesling6189 the two cuts always add up to 90 so its pretty straight forward. one is 7 deg more the other 7 deg less. On a steep pitch of say 40 degrees use 8
I’ve never found the need to do this. With 400 centres, 7x1 valley boards will support themselves.
Valley boards would be selft-supporting, but there aren't any valley boards on this roof. It is being build with valley tiles only. The need to do this only comes with valley tiles if you are worried about whether the roofer will get a good fixing at the end of the batten into the valley rafter. If you don't care about this, then you don't need to fit the noggins.
@@tlangdon12 fair enough
hi m8 great stuff but ive seen them put floor boards down a valley as well whys that
Thats for a flat valley material such as lead, zinc or fibreglass we have a purpose made valley tile
great, more maths 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
schools aren't back till tomorrow robin, i've done all my homework 😂
Now I'm no joiner here but are there going to be any valley boards and is so won't they just cover over those noggins anyway, confused, can only assume no valley boards being used
This roof is plain tiled with purpose made valley tiles so we batten to a mitre into the valley so no need for boarding of any sort!!
@@ukconstruction understood Robin, I can see now 👍
Am I correct in saying that you have your circular saw set at 90°, I would have thought that it would be a compound cut ?
Yes saw stays square 👍🏼
Cheers Dan!!
Thanks Dan.
No, it's a cut at 90° because the noggins are running parallel to the valley rafter, and the top of the noggins is in the same plane as the top of the valley rafter, so the sides of these two members are parallel.
@@tlangdon12 Thanks for your detailed reply. Tony
Does anyone know what size Circular saw Robin is using here?
Hi Alan, it's a 190mm blade mate
usually done with ply, its a valley board? been done for years??? on site its insisted on
With traditional purpose made valley tiles the battens have to be mitred internally on the valley as any board will simply not work, many new build sites never use purpose made valley tiles, too expensive and difficult
What grade lead do I need for my porch flashings im in UK. Thanks
Minimum code 4 but code 5 is lovely
@@ukconstruction thank you is code 8 abit to much for what I need it for
Obviously structural purposes, goes without saying 🙄