When lapping valves in, spin the suction cup back and forth as you did, then lift the whole thing off the seat, turn slightly, reseat and spin again. Repeat until you've done one full revolution of the valve. Lifting and turning is why the cup is a suction cup, so it will stick to the valve, and lift it whilst you turn. If you don't do this, you may not have fully seated the valve for the whole diameter of the seat.
Back in the sixties, when we bought a second hand car, one of the first things they seemed to require was a decoke and a valve grind. Brought back memories. We used a screw driver with Vaseline on the end to remove and insert the collets . We always ground the valves until we had a even thin grey line on the valve and seat surface. I did get into trouble pulling a Ford Anglia gearbox to pieces on my mother’s kitchen table. I think it was because I used her good ironing blanket to protect the table. I thought as a teenager I was being thoughtful. Lol.
The biggest thing I've found to look out for when working on these heads is, don't leave them on the dining room table for more than a week if ya want to live long enough to finish it.
Done that job many times on many red blocks, although I always like to clean up the chambers and valves. Partly so the suction cup works but also to make the valves nice and smooth. The deposits do build up, increase the weight and reduce air flow, as well as gather the end of the valve guide.
Well..right...wrong...I wouldn't know, but.....nice work. Your ability to even do all that in Mrs. Involvo'd table takes guts mate. lol. Really enjoy the breakdown and rebuild steps, and seeing the inner issues that mess us all up as our engines get tired. Great video.
In the old pushrod days of RedBlocks there where thicker head gaskets if you did not want higher compression ratios. That was in Canada just when unleaded gas was introduced . Expect there are many options today.
To get collets out of the top of a valve stem, just get a big ring spanner with an offset neck, place it over the spring plate and smack it lightly with a hammer. The spring will compress and loosen the plate's hold on the valve stem and the collets will pop out. You only need the spring compressor to get them back in. But yes, listen to Lewis and get a magnetic probe to retrieve them!
This was fascinating to watch fella, and after seeing it I’d actually have a go myself! Definitely a pain of a job but well worth doing! Haha chuckled at “I like gold…..” great film 🤣
I've not seen a valve spring compressor like that, mine is like a G clamp, which does mean head has to be on it's side but it locks the spring compressed! A bit of grease on the valve stem helps to hold the collets in place. First head I rebuilt I didn't get inlet valve stem seals and I didn't realise they were needed, engine smoked on tick over but I lived with it as it was a V6. Good vid, well done.
I looked at that one but it had quite negative reviews (it was a cheap Amazon one) compared to this one, but I definitely would have preferred that style after using this. Thanks for the tips, yeah I think I would too 😄
Those 24k seals look amazing! Hahahaha. Cylinder head work is always very tedious and time consuming. You did an amazing job, especially for working with what you had! Thanks for recording and sharing your adventures with us. I hope to tear into a Volvo cylinder head someday and I know this video will be a great reference. Thanks for a great video as always Involvo'd!
the head resurfacing guy told me that since mine lost its seal in an overheating event i’m better off pulling a head at the junkyard because these are prone to cracking. they just put a 940t out on the yard here in seattle, needless to say it’s pouring rain, anything Incan I look for to get an idea if ithat one is worth pulling? would it work to pressure test it by turning the crankshaft with a breaker bar? no batteries are allowed in the yard
Nice work. When and if I get my shed decluttered this is the type of work I want to do on my Volvos. I have purchased a 2013 Nissan LEAF for all the trips around town. Decluttering begins when LEAF arrives.
Thanks, I find city/town driving an old Volvo is quite stressful, can't really enjoy it (or afford it) so I don't blame you. I'm sure you'll enjoy the work it's really satisfying!
I’m doing the same thing myself at the moment on my 2CV. New barrels, pistons, pushrod tube seals and valve stem seals. Only your engine has twice the cylinders and valves!
Oh nice, you must be familiar with Hubnut? I felt lucky, Lewis over Whiteland Restorations reminded me he has 48 collets to remove and install soon on his BMW 🤣
Great video. Look forward to seeing it back together. I’ve done that job twice. Once on my Passat 1.8T and once in a Honda Accord 4 cylinder. Not fun. But I agree lapping the valves was very satisfying.
I enjoyed this extra long episode! Taking apart an engine can be easy yet hard at the same time. I find it can be like a jigsaw puzzle, you know what your doing, it just takes patience and good hand-eye coordination
Satisfying, fascinating and anxious to watch all at once! Gives me more appreciation for my local shop, as this would likely go beyond my patience and nerve levels. 😉 Nice job, can’t wait to see the results! My fingers are crossed for you! 😊
It crossed my mind that maybe some dirt got stuck under the valve from when I was working on the head before I took the camshaft out, either way the main thing is it's sealing good now
Did a cylinderhead myself last summer, I'm definitely regretting not buying a proper valve compression tool, I could see you struggling as well. But hey, it got the job done in the end! Keep up the good work!
@@amadeushuber I would use a drill press if you have one. Make something that fits in the drill press and can push down on the valve, which still gives acces to the pieces that hold the valve in.
13:12-There is more, i know more effective instrument for lapping valves, it is inserted into the valve from the camshaft side, the collet clamp is clamped and with a rotational motion we grind the valve to the seat, when the key is a matte strip is uniform, the valve is detected lapped and it will be necessary to check the strait again with acetone chambers burning!)
Hey. Thanks for another amazing in depth video! This is amazing! Thanks for taking time to show everything. I guess I will have to tackle this job at some point, so this is great reference! :D. You guys are one great team! Love watching your adventures! :D. So much fun and lol :D. Yeah, waiting for the finale! ;D
Hey involvod. Chekout Machan's garage. He is also assembles an b23 top. In swedish, but still worth wahting. He blows the top for hours and washing is. After sandblasting. Very inportent not to have metal splinters in your top. The best of luck. Good Chanel you have.
I have 2 945's & with your videos I am learning so much! my father is a retired engineer of 50+ years & we are working on getting the shop together to start rebuilding these old cars. Thank you very much for listening the specifications & keep detailed notes. Really helpful. May I ask what books you use ?
Oh thanks! Good luck with venture! In this video I used a Haynes manual which is somewhat helpful, but not the best, I think the green books or Bentley manual are supposed to be way better
You don't really need those hushers. And without those it makes valve lash measuring and setting more reliable and correct. Good job that you had it plained (or is it planed?) . I always have it done when i take a head off. As for installing those collets, just use a dollop of grease on them, that way you can stick to the valvestem during install.
Shouldn't you have used the whole length of that spring-tensioner-tool-thing-lever for more leverage? Know what I mean? Garden table, kitchen table, floor and getting it done anyway, just lovely. Holding all available thumbs!
looked bloody fiddly as fuck that but a fun challenge none the less. Atleast yoiu can tinker in the warmth of a home instead of it being on the car in a cold garage :D
Absolutely. Tiny blob of grease, and a tiny blob on a flat screwdriver. Stick the collet to the tip of the screwdriver using the grease so you can reach down and set it in place on the valve stem. Also massively helps to use a G-clamp style valve compressor so you have free hands. But well done for having the patience to use tweezers
I was maching one of these heads. I had to take of 0.6mm This is fine for N/A cars, Its out of spec but cars still run fine. The pitting was directly on the metal seal for the headgasket. I would have done the valve job before the milling and also cleaned off the carbon with a steel brush tool for a drill. And also always use a magnet stick for the valve locking collet.
Why do the valve job before having it milled? We currently have our Volvo 940 head on the dining table and are trying to decide in which order to do things.
Thank you for the helpful video! I am doing this on my Volvo 240 head too. I have an Elring headgasket set, there are 4 of the golden stem seals included. Shouldn't that be 8, or do the inlet and outlet valves use different sealings?
an observation, you would have much more leverage on the spring compressor if the last hole on the handle is mounted in the stand and then the compressor is in place, you'll have a longer handle and more leverage
Hi Sledge! I require your assistance if you could be so kind. I just did a valve clearance check/adjustment, husher, front seals, tensioner and timing belt job on my B230F. It is now time to reinstall the camshaft. The camshaft sprocket and timing belt have yet to be reinstalled. The crankshaft pulley is at TDC. The camshaft is laying on top of the newly adjusted valves. The camshaft is also positioned at TDC. However, the camshaft is not laying flat - the front is low and the back at the distributor end is high, but I can push the back down level with the front with a little pressure. Is it okay to torque down the cam cap nuts with it like this? Will the camshaft assume the correct position as I tighten down the nuts? (I don't want to snap the camshaft or damage the valve springs.) Thanks!
Hey! Yeah exactly that, you just want to tighten the nuts a little bit each time, I'm not exactly sure the best way, some people alternate between caps 2 and 4, some go around in a spiral I think, I didn't really follow an order just 1/4 or 1/2 turn on each nut on one cap, then skip a cap and do the same, took a while that's why I had to timelapse it but it kept the strain off the camshaft. It goes down nicely and opens the valve up as normal once you start torquing it down 👍
@@Involvod Well, that didn't work! Some of the valves are up and some are down and don't match-up with the lobes on the cam. I guess I'll have to remove the cam and rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees and see if that puts the valves at TDC to match-up with the camshaft which is at TDC. (The camshaft sprocket only turns 180 degrees for every full turn of the crankshaft. So, I guess it's possible to have the CS at TDC without the valves being at TDC.)
@@bobjohnson1587 the No.1 lobe should be pointing almost straight up, that will put the camshaft in the correct position, then you'll be able to fine tune it back to the marks once the pulley goes back on
Sorry I just checked the footage, even though the manual calls for it to be pointing up it's not actually straight up, but that valve is closed at least
@@Involvod So, I removed the cam and rotated the crankshaft another 360 degrees. That put the valves into the correct position to match up with the camshaft which I placed at TDC with the No. 1 lobe at about the 1:30 position. I reinstalled the camshaft sprocket and belt and when I turned the crankshaft by hand all of the other lobes matched up with the other 7 valves. Easy-peasy! Lol Another job completed! I want to thank you for your assistance, Sledge! :)
45 is a whole number , A decimal amount is a percentage of a whole number , 1 being the first . Hence even in German they say it as it should be said , in tenths hundredths and thousandths etc 4 tenths and 5 hundredths of 1mm I would think ...XD
Sorry, but this time the savings can cost you . You should have left the entire head restoration to a professional with appropriate means and not play with the valves. The valves need to be thoroughly cleaned and only then made to phase them.
When lapping valves in, spin the suction cup back and forth as you did, then lift the whole thing off the seat, turn slightly, reseat and spin again. Repeat until you've done one full revolution of the valve. Lifting and turning is why the cup is a suction cup, so it will stick to the valve, and lift it whilst you turn. If you don't do this, you may not have fully seated the valve for the whole diameter of the seat.
The bravest part is working on the dining room table,that and the in-laws garden table plus the wife’s tweezers.You’re an animal 😳
Back in the sixties, when we bought a second hand car, one of the first things they seemed to require was a decoke and a valve grind. Brought back memories. We used a screw driver with Vaseline on the end to remove and insert the collets . We always ground the valves until we had a even thin grey line on the valve and seat surface. I did get into trouble pulling a Ford Anglia gearbox to pieces on my mother’s kitchen table. I think it was because I used her good ironing blanket to protect the table. I thought as a teenager I was being thoughtful. Lol.
Haha 😄 That's cool, I couldn't imagine tearing into a gearbox. Thanks for the vaseline tip I guess it would stick better than grease!
The biggest thing I've found to look out for when working on these heads is, don't leave them on the dining room table for more than a week if ya want to live long enough to finish it.
😂 It went on quite a bit longer than expected, but Miss Involvo'd is a different breed, she said she likes the oily smell! 😃
@@Involvod she's definitely a keeper then! ;-)
@@Involvod blessed my friend haha
Again, a small telescoping magnet is your best friend for those valve keepers
Done that job many times on many red blocks, although I always like to clean up the chambers and valves. Partly so the suction cup works but also to make the valves nice and smooth. The deposits do build up, increase the weight and reduce air flow, as well as gather the end of the valve guide.
Great point!
This is a good run down of the head work. I'll be doing all of this at some point
Nice, it's really satisfying work
Just got done doing this myself and those hushers are like powder when ya take em out. Mine also had a tendency to stick as well
@@Cryo_Gen seems like its straight forward enough
Well..right...wrong...I wouldn't know, but.....nice work. Your ability to even do all that in Mrs. Involvo'd table takes guts mate. lol. Really enjoy the breakdown and rebuild steps, and seeing the inner issues that mess us all up as our engines get tired. Great video.
She enjoyed the oil smell! Can you believe it?! Thanks mate glad you enjoyed it 😄
In the old pushrod days of RedBlocks there where thicker head gaskets if you did not want higher compression ratios. That was in Canada just when unleaded gas was introduced . Expect there are many options today.
I think you can still get them for these, alot of people suggested to enjoy the higher compression, so I'll run a stock one and see how it goes 😃
@@Involvod This car is a Turbo, so, why would you want to increase compression ratio, unless you big plans for more HP?
@@richardguse3410 I do have plans but it depends if Germany allows me 😂
a.@@Involvod I'm with you all the way! Hi octane, ethanol free gasoline is not always easy to find here in Canada. Usually Shell.
Excellent video, hilarious comment “I like gold.” Well done Goldfinger! Please keep the videos coming.
Thanks man!
Having dinner watching and listening to you talking about things that I have no understanding of and loving it. Keep on truckin' Sledge.
Thanks that's really nice 😃
To get collets out of the top of a valve stem, just get a big ring spanner with an offset neck, place it over the spring plate and smack it lightly with a hammer. The spring will compress and loosen the plate's hold on the valve stem and the collets will pop out. You only need the spring compressor to get them back in. But yes, listen to Lewis and get a magnetic probe to retrieve them!
This was fascinating to watch fella, and after seeing it I’d actually have a go myself! Definitely a pain of a job but well worth doing! Haha chuckled at “I like gold…..” great film 🤣
Thanks mate, I hope others feel that way too it's really a nice head to work on (apart from those dang collets!)
I've not seen a valve spring compressor like that, mine is like a G clamp, which does mean head has to be on it's side but it locks the spring compressed! A bit of grease on the valve stem helps to hold the collets in place. First head I rebuilt I didn't get inlet valve stem seals and I didn't realise they were needed, engine smoked on tick over but I lived with it as it was a V6. Good vid, well done.
I looked at that one but it had quite negative reviews (it was a cheap Amazon one) compared to this one, but I definitely would have preferred that style after using this. Thanks for the tips, yeah I think I would too 😄
Those 24k seals look amazing! Hahahaha.
Cylinder head work is always very tedious and time consuming. You did an amazing job, especially for working with what you had!
Thanks for recording and sharing your adventures with us. I hope to tear into a Volvo cylinder head someday and I know this video will be a great reference. Thanks for a great video as always Involvo'd!
Thanks man I appreciate it! Super excited to see that on your channel 👍
the head resurfacing guy told me that since mine lost its seal in an overheating event i’m better off pulling a head at the junkyard because these are prone to cracking. they just put a 940t out on the yard here in seattle, needless to say it’s pouring rain, anything Incan I look for to get an idea if ithat one is worth pulling? would it work to pressure test it by turning the crankshaft with a breaker bar? no batteries are allowed in the yard
Nice work. When and if I get my shed decluttered this is the type of work I want to do on my Volvos.
I have purchased a 2013 Nissan LEAF for all the trips around town. Decluttering begins when LEAF arrives.
Thanks, I find city/town driving an old Volvo is quite stressful, can't really enjoy it (or afford it) so I don't blame you. I'm sure you'll enjoy the work it's really satisfying!
24k video! You've got to get a magnet on a stick... You're not going to get away with stealing tweezers forever 😂 great job mate 👍
Haha yeah I bought one the day after and tested it during installation, so much easier 😅
I’m doing the same thing myself at the moment on my 2CV. New barrels, pistons, pushrod tube seals and valve stem seals. Only your engine has twice the cylinders and valves!
Oh nice, you must be familiar with Hubnut? I felt lucky, Lewis over Whiteland Restorations reminded me he has 48 collets to remove and install soon on his BMW 🤣
@@Involvod Yep, I follow Hubnut. Collets are a pain in the arse, but my spring compressor locks in place so a little easier👍
YESS pumped for this one
Great video. Look forward to seeing it back together. I’ve done that job twice. Once on my Passat 1.8T and once in a Honda Accord 4 cylinder. Not fun. But I agree lapping the valves was very satisfying.
Nice, to be honest I enjoyed working on this head apart from the collets, but with a magnet and grease next time should be more enjoyable 😄
So excited to see if it will start!! Love your work! 😀
It'll start, but it might make a horrible noise/smoke like a chimney, let's see 😃 Thank you!
Fascinating stuff, nicely filmed too, can't wait to see how it runs.
Thanks, me too, hopefully it does run 😃
I enjoyed this extra long episode! Taking apart an engine can be easy yet hard at the same time. I find it can be like a jigsaw puzzle, you know what your doing, it just takes patience and good hand-eye coordination
Glad you enjoyed this one! I find it good filming it, even though it takes ages at least I can watch it back and see how the puzzle went together 😄
Cool! Great job, was working on the Škoda today, it’s a nice way to end the day with a new video! Thanks for the content.
Thanks, hope you had success! 😃
M539 content level. Keep up the good work! Thanks!
High praise! Thanks man 👍
If you haven't already installed the head on the block, now is an easy time to check the valve clearances and replace the shims as needed.
Yeah definitely! I checked them in the first one before I pulled the head, did it early on so I wouldn't forget 😃
Satisfying, fascinating and anxious to watch all at once! Gives me more appreciation for my local shop, as this would likely go beyond my patience and nerve levels. 😉
Nice job, can’t wait to see the results! My fingers are crossed for you! 😊
Haha I definitely went through a range of emotions too! Thanks 😃
Great job 👍 now u gonna gain some horsepower back when the valve is good. Greetings from sweden
Thanks! Hopefully 🤗
It crossed my mind that maybe some dirt got stuck under the valve from when I was working on the head before I took the camshaft out, either way the main thing is it's sealing good now
Nice one.. enjoyed the video... I thought the cat was volunteering to use its tail to help clean the head..
She added a lot of hair into the build so all 3 of us have had input into this engine 😅
That's a cracking job, Sledge! I really admire your bravery and skills 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Frank! Really appreciate it 👍
Hey bro, really difficult but satisfying job well done, keep up the great content!😉
Thanks bro! Glad you enjoyed this one, was definitely a bit fiddly but such a great feeling when it's all back together, hopefully it runs 😃
Did a cylinderhead myself last summer, I'm definitely regretting not buying a proper valve compression tool, I could see you struggling as well. But hey, it got the job done in the end! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Next time I'll use the G-clamp style one I think, even though this one was actually more expensive and had better reviews 🤔
Would you recommend a specific valve compression tool? Gonna have to be working on it as well pretty soon;)
@@amadeushuber I would use a drill press if you have one. Make something that fits in the drill press and can push down on the valve, which still gives acces to the pieces that hold the valve in.
@@blauwebaksteen thanks!! Gonna try it
Awesome job! Thanks a lot for sharing this with us!
Thanks for watching! 🙂
13:12-There is more, i know more effective instrument for lapping valves, it is inserted into the valve from the camshaft side, the collet clamp is clamped and with a rotational motion we grind the valve to the seat, when the key is a matte strip is uniform, the valve is detected lapped and it will be necessary to check the strait again with acetone chambers burning!)
Thanks for the tips! 🙂
Hey. Thanks for another amazing in depth video! This is amazing! Thanks for taking time to show everything. I guess I will have to tackle this job at some point, so this is great reference! :D. You guys are one great team! Love watching your adventures! :D. So much fun and lol :D. Yeah, waiting for the finale! ;D
Thanks 😃 You'll enjoy it mate it's a really nice one to work on! And thank you so much for becoming a Patron it means so much!!
@@Involvod Thanks for contributing to the community with all the content you create! It's priceless!😃
Great video sledge, brings back memories of doing mine on the 940. Mine was much the same with the pitting
Thanks Marc, really can catch you out can't it 🥴
15:59-Temperature first sensor for Claster, and second sensor 16:04 for ECU!)
Thanks!
Hey involvod. Chekout Machan's garage. He is also assembles an b23 top. In swedish, but still worth wahting. He blows the top for hours and washing is. After sandblasting. Very inportent not to have metal splinters in your top. The best of luck. Good Chanel you have.
Thanks I'll check him out. I think he had the right idea, can't believe how many pieces were still inside the head after a quick wash!
The Brit expat has done it again! 👍🏾
Good stuff that.
Cheers mate!
@@Involvod I loved the Austin Powers, Goldmember reference! You sounded just like him. I wonder how many got that?
@@honestaquarian haha probably not enough 😃
@@Involvod Maybe Beyoncé will see it 😉😜
I have 2 945's & with your videos I am learning so much!
my father is a retired engineer of 50+ years & we are working on getting the shop together to start rebuilding these old cars.
Thank you very much for listening the specifications & keep detailed notes. Really helpful.
May I ask what books you use ?
Oh thanks! Good luck with venture! In this video I used a Haynes manual which is somewhat helpful, but not the best, I think the green books or Bentley manual are supposed to be way better
You don't really need those hushers. And without those it makes valve lash measuring and setting more reliable and correct.
Good job that you had it plained (or is it planed?) . I always have it done when i take a head off.
As for installing those collets, just use a dollop of grease on them, that way you can stick to the valvestem during install.
That's a great tip I'll definitely do that next time 👍
Shouldn't you have used the whole length of that spring-tensioner-tool-thing-lever for more leverage? Know what I mean?
Garden table, kitchen table, floor and getting it done anyway, just lovely. Holding all available thumbs!
That was what i was thinking. Put the handle as far from the valve compress side as possible.
That's a very good point! I sometimes wish I was live during these jobs 😃
"I like gold" loved it
Nice work. Enjoying the content
Thanks that's always good to hear 😃
looked bloody fiddly as fuck that but a fun challenge none the less. Atleast yoiu can tinker in the warmth of a home instead of it being on the car in a cold garage :D
Definitely! It was a lot nicer, I think Miss Involvo'd will be glad to get the table back though 😄
and was that a nervous school run at the 9 minute mark? xD
😄😄😄
Put some grease on the collets,-it helps them not fall off the stem.
That's a great idea, thanks!
Absolutely. Tiny blob of grease, and a tiny blob on a flat screwdriver. Stick the collet to the tip of the screwdriver using the grease so you can reach down and set it in place on the valve stem. Also massively helps to use a G-clamp style valve compressor so you have free hands. But well done for having the patience to use tweezers
Great job👍👍 looks lovely again
Thanks! Does look much nicer doesn't it, can't wait to see it on the car
“…..as you can see by the puddle on the table that Mrs. Involvo’d’s parents bought….” 😂
😄 Also, when she picked the name we didn't consider the 2 apostrophes in the possessive 😄
@@Involvod it’s a great name! And Volvo lovers can sport two apostrophes better than most 😉
Love these vids.
Cheers!
I was maching one of these heads. I had to take of 0.6mm This is fine for N/A cars, Its out of spec but cars still run fine. The pitting was directly on the metal seal for the headgasket.
I would have done the valve job before the milling and also cleaned off the carbon with a steel brush tool for a drill. And also always use a magnet stick for the valve locking collet.
Good to know! Thanks 😃
Why do the valve job before having it milled? We currently have our Volvo 940 head on the dining table and are trying to decide in which order to do things.
Did you check that the cam has the letter T on it? Turbo cam?
Man thank you, I just nearly installed the head without checking! It does have a T cam 👍
He really pulled up to the mansion
His Patreon subscribers have paid for that for him! Lol
Thank you for the helpful video! I am doing this on my Volvo 240 head too. I have an Elring headgasket set, there are 4 of the golden stem seals included. Shouldn't that be 8, or do the inlet and outlet valves use different sealings?
you should be very prudent with the metal chips on the lubrication channels in the head, it is the best way to ruin the camshaft bearings in the head.
Thanks I thought so too, it was concerning, hopefully it's totally clear now 🤞
an observation, you would have much more leverage on the spring compressor if the last hole on the handle is mounted in the stand and then the compressor is in place, you'll have a longer handle and more leverage
Thanks for the tip! 👍
Hi, I have an engine with 88mm pistons. Can I convert it to 96mm?
I have a question, is there a stam seal rubber in every stamvale or just on the intake valve?
Just on the intake valve 👍
@@Involvod Your the best, thanks!
Anytime!
Hi Sledge! I require your assistance if you could be so kind. I just did a valve clearance check/adjustment, husher, front seals, tensioner and timing belt job on my B230F. It is now time to reinstall the camshaft. The camshaft sprocket and timing belt have yet to be reinstalled. The crankshaft pulley is at TDC. The camshaft is laying on top of the newly adjusted valves. The camshaft is also positioned at TDC. However, the camshaft is not laying flat - the front is low and the back at the distributor end is high, but I can push the back down level with the front with a little pressure. Is it okay to torque down the cam cap nuts with it like this? Will the camshaft assume the correct position as I tighten down the nuts? (I don't want to snap the camshaft or damage the valve springs.) Thanks!
Hey! Yeah exactly that, you just want to tighten the nuts a little bit each time, I'm not exactly sure the best way, some people alternate between caps 2 and 4, some go around in a spiral I think, I didn't really follow an order just 1/4 or 1/2 turn on each nut on one cap, then skip a cap and do the same, took a while that's why I had to timelapse it but it kept the strain off the camshaft. It goes down nicely and opens the valve up as normal once you start torquing it down 👍
@@Involvod Well, that didn't work! Some of the valves are up and some are down and don't match-up with the lobes on the cam. I guess I'll have to remove the cam and rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees and see if that puts the valves at TDC to match-up with the camshaft which is at TDC. (The camshaft sprocket only turns 180 degrees for every full turn of the crankshaft. So, I guess it's possible to have the CS at TDC without the valves being at TDC.)
@@bobjohnson1587 the No.1 lobe should be pointing almost straight up, that will put the camshaft in the correct position, then you'll be able to fine tune it back to the marks once the pulley goes back on
Sorry I just checked the footage, even though the manual calls for it to be pointing up it's not actually straight up, but that valve is closed at least
@@Involvod So, I removed the cam and rotated the crankshaft another 360 degrees. That put the valves into the correct position to match up with the camshaft which I placed at TDC with the No. 1 lobe at about the 1:30 position. I reinstalled the camshaft sprocket and belt and when I turned the crankshaft by hand all of the other lobes matched up with the other 7 valves. Easy-peasy! Lol Another job completed! I want to thank you for your assistance, Sledge! :)
Where did you buy the Valvespring compressor?
I got it off Amazon, just a generic Chinese made one, around €30 I think
@@InvolvodThank you :)
@:56 Your humble home? Lol
Why do you think I say thank you to all my Patreons in the end credits 🤣
Hi.
I am about to buy a 245, the owner told me the power steering pump is massively leaking, ¿Can it be rebuilt changing seals and Orings?
Hi, do you exports engines?
Som oil on the knasters to hold the valvs in its esier
Those valve collets are magnetic 😭
Opps I clicked like just as I realized you had “240” likes…monumental next milestone “242” then “245” (you get it) imagine “740” and “940” likes OMG
😄 I can't imagine getting that many likes, but I can't complain, I never ask for them 😄
Use a magnet to remove the lifters
@Involvo'd : You seem to have a lot of knowledge / experience. What is your automotive background? You could make a video on that perhaps? :-)
Thanks, would definitely like to talk more about the past and future soon!
@@Involvod great, keep up the good work, I'm binge watching you channel :-)
@@winandd8649 I appreciate it 😉
Spring seat
Just ran across these Engines, thinking about throwing one in my 914 Porsche.
my wife would kill me for making the engine rebuild on the saloon table lol
Maybe that's why I got away with it, because I'm not married yet 😂
45 is a whole number ,
A decimal amount is a percentage of a whole number , 1 being the first .
Hence even in German they say it as it should be said , in tenths hundredths and thousandths etc
4 tenths and 5 hundredths of 1mm I would think ...XD
Funny thing is even Germans get confused by it 😄
Use a magnet!
👍 but I use water 💧
Hi 👋, if you use a drill is faster
😆I’m late 😱
not rebuilding🤪 you cleaned the head😆
Sorry, but this time the savings can cost you . You should have left the entire head restoration to a professional with appropriate means and not play with the valves. The valves need to be thoroughly cleaned and only then made to phase them.