Hi, I've several of these which I've collected over the years. I decided to make up a complete six unit train incorporating the two kitchen cars using the kits available (Triang for some reason only made the parlour car). The next thing I did was to change the chassis so that it would tale a Ringfield motor and I have a kit ready to change it to a CD motor. It's a shame I don't have (or know how to use) a 3D printer so that I could share the chassis with others who might want to do the same thing. I've not quite finished the train yet but I'm pleased with what I've done. Thanks for your video.
I have a set but only one kitchen, which is a Kitmaster kit I bought from the junk coaches bin. It almost unrecognisable - painted red with a gloss black roof. Maybe the only time I got a bargain from Norman Hatton himself :)
Be very careful if smoothing the wheels. I'd actually recommend only grinding the flanges. Smoothing the wheels without a lathe has a very high risk of ending up with wheels that are no longer circular and the loco will limp badly.
I would never have thought to try grinding oversized flanges down by putting the axle in the tool and holding the bit to it instead of vice versa. I've got a couple of battered pannier tanks with pitted wheels that would be perfect candidates to try it.
I had the Blue Pullman when I was kid which I got a s birthday present. We got it from the hobby shop in the arcade in Ayr which was off the High street. We, my father, grand father and me, could only get the loco and the dummy end as the shop didn't have the middle coach. But they did have the Kitmaster coach kits which we also bought and dad built them. Later on we made a trip to Kilmarnock to a hobby shop there and I got the Triang coach.
I have the silver grey/ blue model I quietened mine down using sponge foam as I noticed it was noisier with the body on plus a good service those motors are built like iron brew mate 😊 solid and strong cheers Mark 😊😊
Those knurled wheels are case hardened, a lot of people have ruined grinders, files etc trying to turn them down. I'm surprised you found it so easy as they are very, very hard. I have two full sets of Blue Pullmans, I added pickups on the trailing bogie on one of them, which makes a big difference. I've left the drive wheels alone though. They run well but the noise gets on my wick.
I have several Triang locos with the surrated wheel set. Yoruve now given me the confidence to improve there running plus replacing the other wheels. Thanks for sharing. Great job on the repair. Well done
Hi Bill, You could do a nice little side line in ground wheels there. I have a Triang Southern Railways EMU from the late 1950's that could do with the same treatment. Thanks for another great video.
I had that Pullman set in 1965 as a 4 year old, remember the view underneath, brought back fond memories and you will notice it is on my channel logo..
Hi Bill watching you doing motor restorations is so relaxing, and yet again reinforces why I sent you my Class 24 for repair ! It is also lovely to see a long loved classic from my childhood restored back to good working order. I have the Bachmann Blue Pullman set and is one of my cherished modles. Thank you again for such great content. Mark
Hi Bill, the motorised power car should have had two metal weights that drop into the holes in the chassis where you see the silver painted middle access door steps. They can be very loose and possibly have fallen out before the model was sent to you
Great improvement in the running Bill. Another great job. The blue pullman was the one model I always wanted as a child, but never got. The Triang blue Hymek just wasn't the same.
Excellent video. Have ground down loco flanges with success and some locos from my childhood are now back in use. I have the same magnetiser and that is so very useful.
Hi Bill. You've inspiried me to have a go at resurrecting my example of this venerable model. The guitar string pickup enhancement is excellent. I recall an exchange in which you counselled me against grinding the flanges of my ancient Jinty, but it's good to see you've come up with a way to do it with minimum risk, so I'll be trying that too.
Nice work Bill as always. Next week's video from me has a repair on the same motor. You beat me to it. I run Tri-ang Series 3 and Super 4 track for my old Tri-ang locos so no need for wheel grinding. Your layout is looking great. I bet you're itching to get it finished. Happy Modelling. Mon
Bill, I have a few of these and some other 0-4-0's with those metal cogged wheels which I would love to turn down and I will give it a go like you showed... I do not own a lathe but I would love a little one for a bench, it would come in so handy at times.
Be very careful if smoothing the wheels. I'd actually recommend only grinding the flanges. Smoothing the wheels without a lathe has a very high risk of ending up with wheels that are no longer circular and the loco will limp badly.
That was a very impressive repair, refurbish, service, and redesign. The guitar string looked like the high E .010 inches or 0.254 mm diameter and I'm wondering if I am correct. The use of the Dremel to reduce the Triang flanges is the only way to go for the limited equipped hobbyist and you would feal plus see vibrations while grinding if it was out of round. The wobble when running must be from the axel drive gears and worm drive ware, but I don't think replacing it is worth the trouble even if it were possible to find the parts for an old Triang. This video showed most of your skills and I think it was one of your best. Jersey Bill
I use 9s on electric guitar. The lighter the gauge the better for pickups but any steel string will work. I keep all my old electric and acoustic steel strings.
Another great repair Bill. If you thought it needed weight it would have been nice to see it on the scales to know how much it actually weighed. I think I’d have been adding some car wheel balancing weights to beef it up a bit.
Terrific work on this bill. Glad you spent time on how to add the pickup, was the screw tapped into the frame or is there a nut on the other side? Also thanks for demonstrating hiw you ground down the wheels as I wasn’t 100% sure how you would do that. I was thinking you would have done a before/after segment and I didn’t think there was a great difference in the sound at the end. Thanks fir doing this great work Bill Cheers
Hi bill this was an excellent video I have two of these pullmans and that business with grinding down the wheels was brilliant I will have to try and get some triang wheels and have a go myself. What were the wheels you used with the guitar pick ups.
Hey Bill, great repair vid. Say where'd you get that tool you're using there for pulling wheels? I remember a while ago I was trying to find something just like that, looking forward to the next upload Cheers.
Where did you get the live axle wheel sets? The only ones I can find have both wheels insulated. I get around it with some "Electric paint", but that has some resistance.
I need to find a sonic cleaner Bill, do you think you could post a link to yours? Brilliant free modification to those knurled wheel sets! Apparently you can buy smooth replacements, but no doubt they cost a small fortune. And I’m a stingy old git 🤣. Thanks, Rob
Hi, really useful video. I have a few tri-ang locos and wonder where you got the worm gear/wheel puller? I have a few co-co bogies that could do with a sort-out. Thanks again.
Hi Bill! Great repair job! Love your wheel ‘lathe’, too! Can you tell me where you get your guitar string for the pickups from, please? Keep up the good work! Best wishes from down here on Wirral.
They simply wire into the live feed to the track. So the live wire from your controller connects to one terminal on the meter and then connect the other terminal on the meter to the track.
Hi Bill. I have the exact same model and it is still awaiting my attention. I bought a set of replacement drive wheels without the knurling on them but I was toying with the idea of replacing the motor bogie altogether. I was thinking of using a ringfield motor bogie and then putting a cd can motor in it instead. Do you think it is possible and do you have any advice as to how it could be done. I have some idea but your input would be most appreciated. I will also be converting it to DCC as well but this I know how to do. Best regards.
@@shedhead00 Yes, that's what I believed as well. I've got 3 locomotives with serrated wheels but never had an issue with flange depth on code 100 Peco. They all date from the 60s but perhaps I changed the wheels at some point in the distant past..
I'd never seen these serrated wheels before, till I picked up a Triang DMU recently. Not sure I fancy trying to grind them smooth. I am going to fit extra pick-ups anyway, possibly on the trailer cars too, so I had been wondering whether to fit traction tyres instead - which would also reduce the flange size a little. I'd be interested to see your opinion on the idea. The other option would be smooth replacements. Are there any available with the correct gears?
Traction tyres require a groove in the wheel to prevent them detaching from the wheel I think, plus they would reduce connectivity. Just my opinion, Im no expert. Hope you get your model working well.
Grinding the flanges is easy and pretty much risk free. But I wouldn't really recommend smoothing the wheels. Yes you can get smooth replacements with smaller flanges on ebay sometimes. I wouldn't fit traction tyres unless traction was really an issue which is shouldn't be. Add weight first if it is. To fit traction tyres you'd need to fit different wheels which could be a problem. I replaced the entire motor bogie on my Triang 101 with a Lima one and converted it to a CD motor. Worked a treat. I did a video on that a while ago.
@@oobill Thanks for the advice. I have watched the video you mention - I watch all your videos - so if I am not happy with how it runs after fitting some extra pick ups I will see if I can get hold of a Lima motor bogie and have a go at the CD motor conversion. Keep up the series of videos. They have given me a lot of confidence when servicing my old locos. Take care. Richard.
Another great video. Last time I saw a decent Triang Pullman servicing video was when John recorded this one . th-cam.com/video/_jdUlv4o3YI/w-d-xo.html Any one have any news on John?
Hi Bill, thanks for a very useful and informative video. Much appreciated.
Hi, I've several of these which I've collected over the years. I decided to make up a complete six unit train incorporating the two kitchen cars using the kits available (Triang for some reason only made the parlour car). The next thing I did was to change the chassis so that it would tale a Ringfield motor and I have a kit ready to change it to a CD motor. It's a shame I don't have (or know how to use) a 3D printer so that I could share the chassis with others who might want to do the same thing. I've not quite finished the train yet but I'm pleased with what I've done. Thanks for your video.
I have a set but only one kitchen, which is a Kitmaster kit I bought from the junk coaches bin. It almost unrecognisable - painted red with a gloss black roof. Maybe the only time I got a bargain from Norman Hatton himself :)
Nice work! I now know what to do with the driving wheels on my Blue Pullman. Thank you :)
Be very careful if smoothing the wheels. I'd actually recommend only grinding the flanges. Smoothing the wheels without a lathe has a very high risk of ending up with wheels that are no longer circular and the loco will limp badly.
I would never have thought to try grinding oversized flanges down by putting the axle in the tool and holding the bit to it instead of vice versa. I've got a couple of battered pannier tanks with pitted wheels that would be perfect candidates to try it.
I had the Blue Pullman when I was kid which I got a s birthday present. We got it from the hobby shop in the arcade in Ayr which was off the High street. We, my father, grand father and me, could only get the loco and the dummy end as the shop didn't have the middle coach. But they did have the Kitmaster coach kits which we also bought and dad built them. Later on we made a trip to Kilmarnock to a hobby shop there and I got the Triang coach.
Brilliant work.
Running like a champ! Good one Bill.
I have the silver grey/ blue model I quietened mine down using sponge foam as I noticed it was noisier with the body on plus a good service those motors are built like iron brew mate 😊 solid and strong cheers
Mark 😊😊
Those knurled wheels are case hardened, a lot of people have ruined grinders, files etc trying to turn them down. I'm surprised you found it so easy as they are very, very hard.
I have two full sets of Blue Pullmans, I added pickups on the trailing bogie on one of them, which makes a big difference. I've left the drive wheels alone though. They run well but the noise gets on my wick.
I have several Triang locos with the surrated wheel set. Yoruve now given me the confidence to improve there running plus replacing the other wheels. Thanks for sharing. Great job on the repair. Well done
Hi Bill, You could do a nice little side line in ground wheels there. I have a Triang Southern Railways EMU from the late 1950's that could do with the same treatment. Thanks for another great video.
Oh, I've got one of those too. Tempted just to run it on Super 4 track and be done with it.
I had that Pullman set in 1965 as a 4 year old, remember the view underneath, brought back fond memories and you will notice it is on my channel logo..
That was so clever Bill !
I look at a motor like that with dread,so many little pieces to it.Well done 😊👍
Hi Bill watching you doing motor restorations is so relaxing, and yet again reinforces why I sent you my Class 24 for repair ! It is also lovely to see a long loved classic from my childhood restored back to good working order. I have the Bachmann Blue Pullman set and is one of my cherished modles. Thank you again for such great content. Mark
Some clever work there Bill. Thanks Peter from downunder.
Another great repair
Hi Bill, the motorised power car should have had two metal weights that drop into the holes in the chassis where you see the silver painted middle access door steps. They can be very loose and possibly have fallen out before the model was sent to you
Great improvement in the running Bill. Another great job. The blue pullman was the one model I always wanted as a child, but never got. The Triang blue Hymek just wasn't the same.
Excellent video. Have ground down loco flanges with success and some locos from my childhood are now back in use. I have the same magnetiser and that is so very useful.
Another brilliant repair Bill.
Hi Bill. You've inspiried me to have a go at resurrecting my example of this venerable model. The guitar string pickup enhancement is excellent.
I recall an exchange in which you counselled me against grinding the flanges of my ancient Jinty, but it's good to see you've come up with a way to do it with minimum risk, so I'll be trying that too.
I would recommend grinding the flanges but smoothing the wheels is risky and I'm not sure it's worth it.
@@oobill Understood. I'll leave the "heritage wheels" on the Pullman well alone...
Nice work Bill as always.
Next week's video from me has a repair on the same motor.
You beat me to it.
I run Tri-ang Series 3 and Super 4 track for my old Tri-ang locos so no need for wheel grinding.
Your layout is looking great. I bet you're itching to get it finished.
Happy Modelling.
Mon
Bill, I have a few of these and some other 0-4-0's with those metal cogged wheels which I would love to turn down and I will give it a go like you showed... I do not own a lathe but I would love a little one for a bench, it would come in so handy at times.
Be very careful if smoothing the wheels. I'd actually recommend only grinding the flanges. Smoothing the wheels without a lathe has a very high risk of ending up with wheels that are no longer circular and the loco will limp badly.
@@oobill Thanks, I'll do that.. I will look for a cheap small bench lathe in the future for such things..
Like my old blue pulĺman thankfully it runs well and thanks for the tips
Incredible renovation job Bill, what skills you can bring to bear on projects like this, great video.
That was a very impressive repair, refurbish, service, and redesign. The guitar string looked like the high E .010 inches or 0.254 mm diameter and I'm wondering if I am correct. The use of the Dremel to reduce the Triang flanges is the only way to go for the limited equipped hobbyist and you would feal plus see vibrations while grinding if it was out of round. The wobble when running must be from the axel drive gears and worm drive ware, but I don't think replacing it is worth the trouble even if it were possible to find the parts for an old Triang. This video showed most of your skills and I think it was one of your best. Jersey Bill
I use 9s on electric guitar. The lighter the gauge the better for pickups but any steel string will work. I keep all my old electric and acoustic steel strings.
Another great repair Bill. If you thought it needed weight it would have been nice to see it on the scales to know how much it actually weighed. I think I’d have been adding some car wheel balancing weights to beef it up a bit.
First train my father brought me the pullman , nice job bud
Ive got a box set one of these, (1960s i think) the pickups have been completely mangled. Waiting for a time to overhaul it.
grear vid nice work on fixing the loco thanks lee
Terrific work on this bill. Glad you spent time on how to add the pickup, was the screw tapped into the frame or is there a nut on the other side?
Also thanks for demonstrating hiw you ground down the wheels as I wasn’t 100% sure how you would do that.
I was thinking you would have done a before/after segment and I didn’t think there was a great difference in the sound at the end.
Thanks fir doing this great work Bill
Cheers
👍 nice job
Hi bill this was an excellent video I have two of these pullmans and that business with grinding down the wheels was brilliant I will have to try and get some triang wheels and have a go myself. What were the wheels you used with the guitar pick ups.
Peters Spares PS82 12.6mm 3 Hole Disc Wagon & Coach Wheels
Hey Bill, great repair vid. Say where'd you get that tool you're using there for pulling wheels? I remember a while ago I was trying to find something just like that, looking forward to the next upload Cheers.
Just look for model gear puller on ebay. There are a few different ones.
Where did you get the live axle wheel sets? The only ones I can find have both wheels insulated. I get around it with some "Electric paint", but that has some resistance.
Peters Spares PS82 12.6mm 3 Hole Disc Wagon & Coach Wheels
I need to find a sonic cleaner Bill, do you think you could post a link to yours?
Brilliant free modification to those knurled wheel sets! Apparently you can buy smooth replacements, but no doubt they cost a small fortune. And I’m a stingy old git 🤣.
Thanks, Rob
Look up DK Sonic on Amazon. I have the 2L one.
@@oobill thanks. Looks good! Price seems reasonable too considering the apparent quality of construction.
Hi, really useful video. I have a few tri-ang locos and wonder where you got the worm gear/wheel puller? I have a few co-co bogies that could do with a sort-out.
Thanks again.
Ebay. I have three different ones. Just look for "model gear puller"
Hi Bill!
Great repair job!
Love your wheel ‘lathe’, too!
Can you tell me where you get your guitar string for the pickups from, please?
Keep up the good work!
Best wishes from down here on Wirral.
I have a few guitars and keep the old plain steel strings when they get restrung.
Bill, if you get a chance sometime, could you show exactly how you have that ammeter connected ? thanks, Baz
They simply wire into the live feed to the track. So the live wire from your controller connects to one terminal on the meter and then connect the other terminal on the meter to the track.
Great video. Can you advise a supplier of the little desktop clamp that you held the armature in? Thanks!
Look for Modelcraft PCL1003 on Amazon or elsewhere.
@@oobill Thanks. Ordered now.
Hi Bill. I have the exact same model and it is still awaiting my attention. I bought a set of replacement drive wheels without the knurling on them but I was toying with the idea of replacing the motor bogie altogether. I was thinking of using a ringfield motor bogie and then putting a cd can motor in it instead. Do you think it is possible and do you have any advice as to how it could be done. I have some idea but your input would be most appreciated. I will also be converting it to DCC as well but this I know how to do. Best regards.
You might find this interesting th-cam.com/video/ULopwoukTDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=o8x4yNjdpbWaYkWu
Hello Bill
Hows the APT project going?
I tried getting it going the other day using a CD motor conversion kit. Another disaster though. I'm jinxed with that model.
Does not hte saration help with traction? (There has/had to be a reason why it was done in the first place! )
I'm certain that was the original reason - but it had to cope with old-fashioned train set gradients and curves.
The serated/ knurled wheels were made to simulate a diesel engine locomotive noise
@@shedhead00 Yes, that's what I believed as well. I've got 3 locomotives with serrated wheels but never had an issue with flange depth on code 100 Peco. They all date from the 60s but perhaps I changed the wheels at some point in the distant past..
Hi bill if you haven t got any varnish could you emal piant to do those spots would it make any difference on the motor running ?
The reason I painted over with varnish was just to stabilise the flaking shellac coating a bit. Enamel paint would do.
I'd never seen these serrated wheels before, till I picked up a Triang DMU recently. Not sure I fancy trying to grind them smooth. I am going to fit extra pick-ups anyway, possibly on the trailer cars too, so I had been wondering whether to fit traction tyres instead - which would also reduce the flange size a little. I'd be interested to see your opinion on the idea. The other option would be smooth replacements. Are there any available with the correct gears?
Traction tyres require a groove in the wheel to prevent them detaching from the wheel I think, plus they would reduce connectivity. Just my opinion, Im no expert. Hope you get your model working well.
Grinding the flanges is easy and pretty much risk free. But I wouldn't really recommend smoothing the wheels. Yes you can get smooth replacements with smaller flanges on ebay sometimes. I wouldn't fit traction tyres unless traction was really an issue which is shouldn't be. Add weight first if it is. To fit traction tyres you'd need to fit different wheels which could be a problem. I replaced the entire motor bogie on my Triang 101 with a Lima one and converted it to a CD motor. Worked a treat. I did a video on that a while ago.
@@oobill Thanks for the advice. I have watched the video you mention - I watch all your videos - so if I am not happy with how it runs after fitting some extra pick ups I will see if I can get hold of a Lima motor bogie and have a go at the CD motor conversion. Keep up the series of videos. They have given me a lot of confidence when servicing my old locos. Take care. Richard.
@@darren25061965 The motor runs fine - thanks to following Bill's guidance!
Hi Bill is possible for you to do this to mine..my eyes are good these days and mine would benefit from this upgrade. ...tia Stephen
If you're in the UK then yes. See FAQ in description for how to contact me about sending a loco.
Another great video. Last time I saw a decent Triang Pullman servicing video was when John recorded this one . th-cam.com/video/_jdUlv4o3YI/w-d-xo.html Any one have any news on John?