It reminds me of Kawasaki in the 80s 90s the suffered dreadfully from binding brakes & seizing callipers , my GPZ needed constant maintenance, good video Glyn 👍
Thanks for stressing the importance of calipers having there freedom to operate as they should for me it should be part of a service to ensure the caliper pins and pad contact points are running free, well done Glyn for your video which demonstrates the way sieziers can take place through like of maintenance
Thanks Alan, something to do when winter comes eh! These bikes are really good and it'd be a shame to not have them working correctly. Thanks for watching, Glyn
An excellent community service film! Your film comes at a time when there are many new riders need to see films just like this one, so that they understand just how these basic things work. Just one other point about RE brakes or in fact motorcycle brakes in general 😊, they are meant to be used both together! I’ve seen too many TH-cam reviews where the reviewer works each brake separately and declares them good or bad on that basis. I will say it again loud for the people in the back of the room. Always use both brakes! ABS is supposed to be an emergency back up system and is no substitute for using your brakes correctly.
I live in the hills with lots of gravelly hairpin bends, and the back brake does the lion's share of the work. Front brake on those corners and you'll be sitting on your backside. Also, low speed manoeuvres are controlled by the back brake to avoid front end dive.
@@TheNorfolkThunderbolt The rule was always back brake for control, front for stopping. In dry conditions on straight well-surfaced roads, both brakes are a good idea. In stop-start traffic or technical riding, front braking changes the steering geometry and a rider will be bobbing up and down, and putting power through a damped front end. My point is to say always use both brakes is too much of a generalisation.
@@TheNorfolkThunderbolt Fair enough, I thought "Always use both brakes!"" was too definitive, and misleading for inexperienced riders. Probably good advice for Norfolk. Have a good one.
Hey Glyn. There was no grease on the caliper pins because they used it all up on the electrical connections 🤓🧐. That wee bike is looking better and better 😊
Hi , I have just stumbled across your video on TH-cam. I am assuming you are more of an expert than me , but my RE 650 GT was in last week for a brake calliper recall. I don’t know much about the 350s , but it looks like the same problem as the 650s which were all recalled. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks George, I'm not sure quite what the recall is on the 650's but seeing as this is the only moving part apart from the pistons it should be related in some way, perhaps they fit a slightly smaller pin for more clearance (or just grease it up some). Maybe they're waiting to see if it's a problem in the 350's?
Thanks for the heads up, I checked mine today, same age but has lower mileage. I found there was some corrosion but minimal lubricant on the sliding pins. Worth a check, but still managed to make the brakes operate more efficiently by running smoother with some new lubricant.
Unfortunately when you had the calliper and parts in your hand they disappeared out of shot at the top of the screen a lot of the time so I couldn’t actually see what you did. However I get the basic info was to check for ceased calliper pins .
Hello, I watched all your videos yesterday, I'm a fan! I have a Royal Enfield Meteor 350 too. I really like the way you make your improvements. Great !!! +++
Job well done mate, I’m not surprised there was no grease in there, my chain rusted within 3 months, I assumed it would have been lubed from the factory but soon found out it wasn’t. I had these same brake brake calipers on my bullet and they were trouble free. I’m guessing your bike was probably used all year round and probably kept outside and with the lack of grease also it’s no surprise really. Enjoyed the video, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks Andy, I'm certain it was very poorly looked after so hopefully this is as bad as it gets, maybe a look into the future for some other calipers that are knocking about!
Good as usual enjoyed the video as it shows how to separate the caliper from the carrier which I did not know. 7/16 is 14mm 😉 also a little on the brake pad on the part where it slides is a good idea and the back of the pads to help stop brake sqeak. So thanks again.
Thanks David, hopefully it will be much easier to do when it's in good condition, I'll find out next season when it comes off to check, not that I go out in winter much, I'm far too soft. Do love a crisp sunny winter ride though!
Thanks Mark, I think it might have been just a bad combination of poor maintenance and luck but it's surely not the only one. I can't find your email yet, have another go if you can👍
Hi Glyn. That was both an excellent and worrying video. It is possible your's was a one off, but looks like that should be at least be a one time inspection and may yearly there after. BTW, I would use copper grease. Thanks VERY much for that.
@@GlynOC I'm wondering if your bike had been subjected to excessive pressure washing. Never a good idea. I will do my yearlies and if I find the grease is dissappearing, I might fit some aircraft type flush grease fittings. 🤔
Be carefull with copper grease and rubber mounted slides pins, the copper grease will swell the rubber to a degree were it will eventually feel seized, i found this out the hard way over the last 30 years with japanese bikes. Silcone grease or rubber grease once a year or whenever you change your pads and youll never have any problems.
@@GlynOChi Glyn. Following your video, I checked my calipers. Back one moved and front didn't. Pulled it apart. Both guide pins were well grease and no corrosion in the pin cylinder. On assembly I added silicone grease as that appears to be what was there (and Brendon's comment) and after reassembly there was noticeably more movement. The bike is only 9 months old and 2k klm. Guess it's a yearly job.
What type of special grease did you use? It's amazing that the maintenance schedules for most motorcycles do not call for checking, lubrication or cleaning of brake callipers!
I think it's technically in the service list but I'm not sure it gets done, perhaps they just put some grease on the back of the pads (which is common too). Full disclosure, I just used some fine grease I had already but will order some silicone based stuff for the next seasons service. Thanks for watching👍
@GlynOC I checked the service schedule..pad thickness and brake fluid only. I have used plumbers silicone grease in the past but not convinced that it's the best.
Checked my callipers just got 600miles on my classic 350,callipers not seized or any corrosion but there was no grease on pins,I think it must come like that from the factory
Thanks for checking Kevin, at least I'm not the only one and you'll be able to keep an eye on it now too. The Classic 350 is the most beautiful bike, enjoy that!
It's an awful experience when you discover your brake calipers are seized. I had so many issues with the calipers on my V-Strom, at one stage I had to strip them down complete and replace all the seals and the POTs as well. After that, I did a brake maintenance every 6 months. UK Road salt completely destroys these things.
Those new pads are supposedly upgrades by Ferodo but it'll be a bit hard to know how much better they are than standard as I only knew it when it was seized 👍
I think they work perfectly well but yearly maintenance is a must to keep them good I think. The Ferodo pads from Hitchcocks are superb, you could almost call the front brake 'fierce' now
It reminds me of Kawasaki in the 80s 90s the suffered dreadfully from binding brakes & seizing callipers , my GPZ needed constant maintenance, good video Glyn 👍
Yes, that sounds about right! Thanks for watching 🙏
Thanks for stressing the importance of calipers having there freedom to operate as they should for me it should be part of a service to ensure the caliper pins and pad contact points are running free, well done Glyn for your video which demonstrates the way sieziers can take place through like of maintenance
Thanks Alan, something to do when winter comes eh! These bikes are really good and it'd be a shame to not have them working correctly. Thanks for watching, Glyn
A masterclass in bike management. Much appreciated!
Cheers James, ride safe!
An excellent community service film! Your film comes at a time when there are many new riders need to see films just like this one, so that they understand just how these basic things work. Just one other point about RE brakes or in fact motorcycle brakes in general 😊, they are meant to be used both together! I’ve seen too many TH-cam reviews where the reviewer works each brake separately and declares them good or bad on that basis. I will say it again loud for the people in the back of the room. Always use both brakes! ABS is supposed to be an emergency back up system and is no substitute for using your brakes correctly.
I live in the hills with lots of gravelly hairpin bends, and the back brake does the lion's share of the work. Front brake on those corners and you'll be sitting on your backside. Also, low speed manoeuvres are controlled by the back brake to avoid front end dive.
@@borderlands6606 yes, I understand there will be regional variations, but I’m talking about general use on ordinary British roads.
@@TheNorfolkThunderbolt The rule was always back brake for control, front for stopping. In dry conditions on straight well-surfaced roads, both brakes are a good idea. In stop-start traffic or technical riding, front braking changes the steering geometry and a rider will be bobbing up and down, and putting power through a damped front end. My point is to say always use both brakes is too much of a generalisation.
@@borderlands6606 I know it’s a generalisation. I was making a point in general.
@@TheNorfolkThunderbolt Fair enough, I thought "Always use both brakes!"" was too definitive, and misleading for inexperienced riders. Probably good advice for Norfolk. Have a good one.
Hey Glyn. There was no grease on the caliper pins because they used it all up on the electrical connections 🤓🧐.
That wee bike is looking better and better 😊
haha I've heard about that problem and the relays I've seen are full of grease on mine too. There must be a very happy grease man over there👍
Hi , I have just stumbled across your video on TH-cam.
I am assuming you are more of an expert than me , but my RE 650 GT was in last week for a brake calliper recall.
I don’t know much about the 350s , but it looks like the same problem as the 650s which were all recalled.
Thanks for the great video.
Thanks George, I'm not sure quite what the recall is on the 650's but seeing as this is the only moving part apart from the pistons it should be related in some way, perhaps they fit a slightly smaller pin for more clearance (or just grease it up some). Maybe they're waiting to see if it's a problem in the 350's?
Great video. Thanks a lot. I will check mine too asap because the front brake is not more smooth and progressive but hacked.
It's always worth checking and can only help with the braking feel and action I'm sure!!
Thanks for the heads up, I checked mine today, same age but has lower mileage. I found there was some corrosion but minimal lubricant on the sliding pins. Worth a check, but still managed to make the brakes operate more efficiently by running smoother with some new lubricant.
Good to hear it wasn't too bad, hopefully you can ride along with a smug smiley face knowing you've made it even better! 😊
Unfortunately when you had the calliper and parts in your hand they disappeared out of shot at the top of the screen a lot of the time so I couldn’t actually see what you did. However I get the basic info was to check for ceased calliper pins .
I"ll be doing it again shortly on the Classic 350 so will make sure it all gets shown
Hello, I watched all your videos yesterday, I'm a fan! I have a Royal Enfield Meteor 350 too. I really like the way you make your improvements. Great !!! +++
Thanks very much, it's great to hear from you. Where do you ride your Meteor?Cheers, Glyn
🙏👍
@@GlynOC Saint Malo, France !
Wow, the beautiful walled town! I've been there and it's amazing, you must love riding around there. Salut!
🙏👍❤@@GlynOC
Many thanks I'll check my 350 classic and Himalayan
An ideal time of year to do it now too!
Yea, Thanks very much for this video... I will be checking this very shortly...Cheers
Thats great, hopefully they're all good for you!
Nice hint, thanks Glyn 🙏
Job well done mate, I’m not surprised there was no grease in there, my chain rusted within 3 months, I assumed it would have been lubed from the factory but soon found out it wasn’t. I had these same brake brake calipers on my bullet and they were trouble free. I’m guessing your bike was probably used all year round and probably kept outside and with the lack of grease also it’s no surprise really. Enjoyed the video, keep up the good work 👍
Thanks Andy, I'm certain it was very poorly looked after so hopefully this is as bad as it gets, maybe a look into the future for some other calipers that are knocking about!
Good as usual enjoyed the video as it shows how to separate the caliper from the carrier which I did not know. 7/16 is 14mm 😉 also a little on the brake pad on the part where it slides is a good idea and the back of the pads to help stop brake sqeak. So thanks again.
I now have 3 bikes and 6 calipers to check 😅
....7/16" = 11mm ... Just a tad bigger...
Thanks David, hopefully it will be much easier to do when it's in good condition, I'll find out next season when it comes off to check, not that I go out in winter much, I'm far too soft. Do love a crisp sunny winter ride though!
I have a few imperial spanners from owning British Leyland Motor products (shudder)🤪
@@denheg5009you are correct I was thinking 9/16 😊
Fantastic job. Strange that the brakes, not up to spec.
Thanks Mark, I think it might have been just a bad combination of poor maintenance and luck but it's surely not the only one. I can't find your email yet, have another go if you can👍
Excellent video, well done.
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Glyn. That was both an excellent and worrying video.
It is possible your's was a one off, but looks like that should be at least be a one time inspection and may yearly there after.
BTW, I would use copper grease.
Thanks VERY much for that.
Thanks Tim, hopefully it'll just be a quick service job if it's caught in time, poor brakes don't get much loving do they
@@GlynOC I'm wondering if your bike had been subjected to excessive pressure washing.
Never a good idea.
I will do my yearlies and if I find the grease is dissappearing, I might fit some aircraft type flush grease fittings. 🤔
Be carefull with copper grease and rubber mounted slides pins, the copper grease will swell the rubber to a degree were it will eventually feel seized, i found this out the hard way over the last 30 years with japanese bikes. Silcone grease or rubber grease once a year or whenever you change your pads and youll never have any problems.
@@brendonhughes4580 thanks Brendon, I have both and silicone definitely can't do any harm
@@GlynOChi Glyn. Following your video, I checked my calipers. Back one moved and front didn't. Pulled it apart. Both guide pins were well grease and no corrosion in the pin cylinder. On assembly I added silicone grease as that appears to be what was there (and Brendon's comment) and after reassembly there was noticeably more movement. The bike is only 9 months old and 2k klm.
Guess it's a yearly job.
What type of special grease did you use?
It's amazing that the maintenance schedules for most motorcycles do not call for checking, lubrication or cleaning of brake callipers!
I think it's technically in the service list but I'm not sure it gets done, perhaps they just put some grease on the back of the pads (which is common too). Full disclosure, I just used some fine grease I had already but will order some silicone based stuff for the next seasons service. Thanks for watching👍
@GlynOC I checked the service schedule..pad thickness and brake fluid only. I have used plumbers silicone grease in the past but not convinced that it's the best.
ahh there we are then, thanks for checking 👍
Checked my callipers just got 600miles on my classic 350,callipers not seized or any corrosion but there was no grease on pins,I think it must come like that from the factory
Thanks for checking Kevin, at least I'm not the only one and you'll be able to keep an eye on it now too. The Classic 350 is the most beautiful bike, enjoy that!
It's an awful experience when you discover your brake calipers are seized. I had so many issues with the calipers on my V-Strom, at one stage I had to strip them down complete and replace all the seals and the POTs as well. After that, I did a brake maintenance every 6 months. UK Road salt completely destroys these things.
Brakes are so un-sexy and dirty, I'm not surprised they're last on the list for care (like the chain), poor little things!
improved braking can be obtained by using better quality oil and brake pads
Those new pads are supposedly upgrades by Ferodo but it'll be a bit hard to know how much better they are than standard as I only knew it when it was seized 👍
There was a recall on the Himalayan a year or so ago having to replace corroding brake calipers. So much for Brembo's "budget" division. 😡
I think they work perfectly well but yearly maintenance is a must to keep them good I think. The Ferodo pads from Hitchcocks are superb, you could almost call the front brake 'fierce' now
Catch-it 🐱💩 .. Stop it! 😁🤣
That's my wifes fault! She kept laughing while I was editing and I couldn't work out why until she pointed it out😃
Lack of maintenance