Amazing, ABSOLUTELY AMAZING how you took the time by yourself to make such a detailed video! I took my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee in for this service and was told they can't get an ETA on the part. Then I was told how much work is involved which I already knew due to having it done two years ago at a private shop. I figured the dealer could get it done right. But the Service Dept shocked I was willing to pay to get it fixed after giving me the price. This I was told from Reedman Toll CDJR of Jenkintown in Pa. After seeing this I feel like the Technician backed out.
I have fixed this problem myself twice. I'm convinced its a combination of the material for the seal, the glue and possibly the heat. The seal turns into a sticky tar like goo, it can not only just glue itself in place and jam the door, the seal can fold over and get stuck in the gap between door and wall of the unit, jamming it as well as gluing into place. I'm currently putting it back together and this time I just tore the seal away and got rid of it, it was like strips of gooey tar. This has been going on for 25 years in the Auto Industry, they have gone to these complicated HVAC units with actuator motors to open and close doors to direct airflow, but then make them out flimsy plastic and materials that are prone to break if the slightest problem is encountered. For something buried under the dash that will require at least a $1000 of labor to change this totally unacceptable. Things to go under the dash and are so hard to replace, need to be engineered to be very durable and long lasting. Yet we get these flimsy components that degenerate into goo or break when the slightest resistance is encountered.
If the seal was just melting from the heat, well besides horrible engineering they select a seal material that would melt from the heater core, but the seal would go back to normal consistency after it cooled off, although misshaped. The seal turns into a gooey sticky strip, its something with the glue and material of the seal itself for this to change into something like this.
Excellent video. What really amazes me is how you not only do the work, but at the same time are able to squeeze the light AND the camera into tight places, getting clear video at the same time!
Came by this video trying to learn how to remove certain trims on the dash to replace the console lighting... It was at that moment I realized... this is NOT something you wanna DIY. If the AC dist case breaks... just have a pro do it. Just remembering where all these bolts go is next to impossible. Kudos to you bro!! Ppl can now appreciate why certain jobs require paying a ton of cash for. Changing a tiny seal or a gear could require the entire car to be dissasembled.
Incredible work and very Knowledgeable! Thank you for making this video! I own a 2014 JGC and this video is a huge help for any mechanic working on this model
Incredible work. So much appreciated. Would not have tried this without your great detail. I actually had 100 degrees from my vents w ac on and 70degrees outside! I put a hand valve on the heater core hoses to stop heat flow in the summer. Got it down to 50 degrees but now im going to actually fix it.. cheers!
Thank you for making this video as well as the others. I know what a PITA it is to film and work at the same time. Trying to get the lighting and camera angles right. I can see that the dash removal on this vehicle is very time consuming. Thanks again for showing the way! BTW, Love your shop! Keep up the good work!
Excellent video. Dismantling the dash is a heck of a job. To avoid this you can break the door free by spinning the gear manually under the dash (you’ll have to spend some time running the heat to soften the seals) otherwise you’d never be able to do it. When the gears get replaced you can put a screw in the stopper on the gear to prevent it from turning the blend door all the way. The result is fully working ac. You’d have a very tiny amount of heat loss on max heat. But it beats ripping the car apart.
Thank you for posting this. Tackling this project next weekend on 2013 JGC Laredo. No air/heat from center vents. I get air/heat from everything where else. Hoping that maybe something slid down inside from the top of the dash and I find that before we take the entire dash apart.
Hello, thank you for making the video, it will help me a lot, because I have the same problem in the car and I am getting ready to repair the desie version from 2014 I am in Poland
I’m having the same issue on driver side. Door is stuck breaking the gear. Thank you for showing this is way to much for me. 😁. I’ll have to pay for this one. 😢
I'm doing the same job now. All data was no help it literally. Said remove heater box. I had everything done. But Still couldn't get the box out. I watched your video and realized. I needed to take the wiper motor. And that shield off. Thank you that helped My boss kept saying what's taking so long I was like this job fucking sucks
Awesome work! Thank you for sharing. In my case with my 2011 jeep, I was able to reach underneath my steering wheel to just replace the blend door motor and I think it was strong enough to pull that melted seal apart. But because of your video, I now have a full understanding why it failed in the first place. Thank you! Question: if my car has a hard time or takes a long time to blow out cold air when it’s hot out, what’s the issue? AC clutch, evaporator valve? I’m getting good pressure, doesn’t seem like it’s a refrigerant leak. I do somewhat hear the fan bearings on the front right dash when you kick on the AC as well but it still blows so could be ok…. I could also try cleaning the condenser too…any suggestions?
Is it possible that another blend door is jammed on a 2014 grand cherokee be cause everything is working fine exept i have no air defrost? When i push the defrost button i dont have airflows on my windshiled.
I have a 2014 durrango the doors in my HVAC box done the same thing. As read someone else commented this should be mopar problem, it definitely should be. This is a big job. I went to my local dodge dealer and got the part numbers for the stuff i would need. Off coarse they were telling me to change the HC, EVC and hc tubes. They said I needed the heater core tubes because they were 1 time use. So I wanted to ask you at the end of your video did you repalace the o rings on the heater core tubes if so whats the part #. Your Video is great by the way too. I do everything myself but sometimes just need that little bit of confidence from a videoo like yours that i'm doing it the right way.
Yes I replace the o-rings but I cant remember what the part number was . I did get them from dodge dealer so I don't know what's going on with that , Maybe they are trying to up sale you on parts .I would call a different dealer and ask them , Also there could be a different design between Cherokee and Durrango , Anyway good luck
Mi saludi maestro quiero que .e ayude con problemas que tengo con una cheroki 2014 creo que tiene problemas con el control ac de las aplica cuando quiera
Great work. Best to replace the seal with a new rubber one. That old seal will deteriorate and blow out through the vents in the future. No one wants to do this job twice.
A good alternative fix for someone that can't afford to have the problem correctly Is to create a new stop for the gear so it wouldn't fully rest up against the rubber seal so it wouldn't get stuck again
nice video, I'm planning on replacing the blend door box on my 2013 Jeep Grand cherokee myself but I had a question . Could you just disconnect the heater core lines at the blend door box and just remove that without removing the whole assembly from the vehicle?
@@heartlandmechanic I finished the replacement of the mixing box thanks to your video. I do have an issue now with the display screen reading damaged key fab and that with either key used. I can insert either key and start the jeep. Do you have any ideas what could be wrong?
@@fundog8922 Wow that's a new one on me . Lets try to manually reboot the passive entry module , Disconnect both battery cables and then jump the cables together ( touch cable ends together - UNHOOKED from battery ) for a few minutes . This will discharge the capacitor and reset set the module .
It seems that all the part numbers are the same for jeep and durrango. The mopar part # for heater distribution housing is # 68224169ab the o-rings are 68239586aa and the heater core clamps are 68031980aa. Hope this will help some people too. I personally emailed Danny he emailed me right back about a question I had. Thanks
Not sure if I know what you mean , if your installing the old dash back in it should start ( battery disconnect and reconnect should clear any PCM codes and reset calibration on blend door motors ).
@@heartlandmechanic Yea, you right, but I mean if you install a new dash, restoring a salvage 2018 jeep grand cherokee and dont wanna start... only lights, no run
@@crys161 have you had a scanner hooked up and ran it for codes , possibly the security system has you locked out , One thing you could try is if you have the original instrument cluster try and plug it in and see if that helps .
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee, passenger side blows only heat when AC is on. Questions, 1) I have heard it’s possible to replace the blend door motor and gear by working through the opening after removing only the glove box. In your opinion do you think that’s possible? 2) What would a Jeep dealer charge ( approximately)for this job in labor, $1500-$2000 Thank you - awesome video!
Yes it’s possible. I just removed my on a 2011 Jeep , because the blend door gear was broken on the passenger seat,but also the assembly actuator box is not good, in my case the plastic is melted because of the heated , so I think I will prefer to pay $1200 😅, I don’t even have all the tools to do what this guy is doing on this video. And it look so difficult 🥶
I have the same year GC and for a minute there thought that was my car that I had recently bought. Mine is a 5.7 HEMI though. I realize you went through a lot of work on replacing that blower housing. My question is " What's going to stop it from happening again? Did it look like the damper gaskets were made of the same crap material? My AC works for a while, then without touching anything, I lose the AC and the air seems to get very week even at full blast. I can turn off the system for 15 minutes or so and then it works fine again but only for a short while.
Sam issue here! Start the car and AC works just fine but after a while air starts to come out warmer and air flow goes down. The fan seems to run at full speed, I even tested it without filter, no change. Something blocks the air gradually and then recovers. From how the system works, it makes no sense that air stops coming out and then recovers... Not sure doing this huge effort will solve our problem. Any ideas/advance?
you will not have to remove dash but you will have to remove that outer firewall to get to expansion valve , remove the nut holding a/c lines on the valve , pull the lines from the valve and there will be 2 torx screws that will need to be removed , the valve will come out then .
How many hours did this take you to remove it or rather, how many hours do you think a shop would charge to do it? Just started the video sorry if you say it later on
By looking at pictures in service manual they look the same , The part numbers for evap core and heater core are the same . I CAN'T 100% guarantee they are the same but it sure looks like it .
No , just the under hood part , when you get the a/c lines loose at the firewall you will see 2 torx bolts , remove bolts and expansion valve will come out .
Honestly did more work than needed. You don't have to take out the entire mounting bracket there's two little bolts in the top corner that are hidden. If you take those out you can take off the entire dash without removing the brackets.
1. Must have tool: Harbor Freight, PITTSBURGH Ratcheting Right Angle Multi-Bit Screwdriver Set, 8 Piece $2.99 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable (under passenger seat for 20 mins.) to recalibrate the blend door actuator system.
Fantastic video😇 my wife's Jeep is a 2011 Grand Cherokee one minute the AC blows perfectly cold then it quits, one minute the low pressure side will be 35 then it would drops down to 20 and both lines get warm so I'm thinking it's the expansion valve I wish we had a garage like yours nearby I can just take it to🙃 any advice would be appreciated 😁 Thank you
Book time is 10 hours . This is a very time consuming job , to be on the safe side give yourself 2 to day's to complete . ( I had about 16 hours in this one , with a lot of breaks & cursing lol . )
Hey Heartland Mechanic, I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee that makes a buzzing/rattling noise when I’m going low speeds. It only makes the noise when I lightly touch the throttle. The noises seems to come from the area slightly above 7:19 in this video. I can send you the video of the noise. I’m desperate and can’t afford to take it to a shop. I don’t believe it’s a serious issue. Thanks for any help!
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Amazing, ABSOLUTELY AMAZING how you took the time by yourself to make such a detailed video! I took my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee in for this service and was told they can't get an ETA on the part. Then I was told how much work is involved which I already knew due to having it done two years ago at a private shop. I figured the dealer could get it done right. But the Service Dept shocked I was willing to pay to get it fixed after giving me the price. This I was told from Reedman Toll CDJR of Jenkintown in Pa. After seeing this I feel like the Technician backed out.
I have fixed this problem myself twice. I'm convinced its a combination of the material for the seal, the glue and possibly the heat. The seal turns into a sticky tar like goo, it can not only just glue itself in place and jam the door, the seal can fold over and get stuck in the gap between door and wall of the unit, jamming it as well as gluing into place. I'm currently putting it back together and this time I just tore the seal away and got rid of it, it was like strips of gooey tar. This has been going on for 25 years in the Auto Industry, they have gone to these complicated HVAC units with actuator motors to open and close doors to direct airflow, but then make them out flimsy plastic and materials that are prone to break if the slightest problem is encountered. For something buried under the dash that will require at least a $1000 of labor to change this totally unacceptable. Things to go under the dash and are so hard to replace, need to be engineered to be very durable and long lasting. Yet we get these flimsy components that degenerate into goo or break when the slightest resistance is encountered.
If the seal was just melting from the heat, well besides horrible engineering they select a seal material that would melt from the heater core, but the seal would go back to normal consistency after it cooled off, although misshaped. The seal turns into a gooey sticky strip, its something with the glue and material of the seal itself for this to change into something like this.
Excellent video.
What really amazes me is how you not only do the work, but at the same time are able to squeeze
the light AND the camera into tight places, getting clear video at the same time!
Thank you
Who much is a job
Came by this video trying to learn how to remove certain trims on the dash to replace the console lighting... It was at that moment I realized... this is NOT something you wanna DIY. If the AC dist case breaks... just have a pro do it. Just remembering where all these bolts go is next to impossible. Kudos to you bro!! Ppl can now appreciate why certain jobs require paying a ton of cash for. Changing a tiny seal or a gear could require the entire car to be dissasembled.
Incredible work and very Knowledgeable! Thank you for making this video! I own a 2014 JGC and this video is a huge help for any mechanic working on this model
Incredible work. So much appreciated. Would not have tried this without your great detail. I actually had 100 degrees from my vents w ac on and 70degrees outside! I put a hand valve on the heater core hoses to stop heat flow in the summer. Got it down to 50 degrees but now im going to actually fix it.. cheers!
Explain if you don't mind
Thank you for making this video as well as the others. I know what a PITA it is to film and work at the same time. Trying to get the lighting and camera angles right. I can see that the dash removal on this vehicle is very time consuming. Thanks again for showing the way! BTW, Love your shop! Keep up the good work!
Thank You .
Thank you for this video definitely saved me some time however the job was still a major pain in my ass
That you sir!! You saved me a pile of time!! 2011 dodge durango
👏 awesome thanks for the extra work of documenting, got the same problem, passenger side door over extended and heat is stuck always on. What a job
Excellent video. Dismantling the dash is a heck of a job. To avoid this you can break the door free by spinning the gear manually under the dash (you’ll have to spend some time running the heat to soften the seals) otherwise you’d never be able to do it. When the gears get replaced you can put a screw in the stopper on the gear to prevent it from turning the blend door all the way. The result is fully working ac. You’d have a very tiny amount of heat loss on max heat. But it beats ripping the car apart.
Which gear do you need to spin? The gear of the flap on the vent-just manualy force it open?
@@mattheweason6971 the one that stay in the hvac, normally they are blocked, thats why the door actuator gear break, i am about to test that tomorrow,
How do you get in there to manually rotate the stuck things. There is a door in the way from fully getting my hand in their.
Can you do this for me?
Is there a video on how to do this?
Thank you for posting this. Tackling this project next weekend on 2013 JGC Laredo. No air/heat from center vents. I get air/heat from everything where else. Hoping that maybe something slid down inside from the top of the dash and I find that before we take the entire dash apart.
Nice job man......you show more than our mopar service guide
Thank you , Thanks for the comment .
I can't thank you enough for making this video.
Hello, thank you for making the video, it will help me a lot, because I have the same problem in the car and I am getting ready to repair the desie version from 2014 I am in Poland
Great Video! Just curious about cost comparison between taking it to a professional vs DIY?
Very helpful,made my job easier
God bless you for this.
Your a excellent auto tech bro
Thank you
I’m having the same issue on driver side. Door is stuck breaking the gear. Thank you for showing this is way to much for me. 😁. I’ll have to pay for this one. 😢
I'm doing the same job now. All data was no help it literally. Said remove heater box. I had everything done.
But Still couldn't get the box out. I watched your video and realized. I needed to take the wiper motor. And that shield off. Thank you that helped My boss kept saying what's taking so long I was like this job fucking sucks
Awsome patience you have as well. GREAT VIDEO ! How many screws were left over after the job was done. I don't know how you managed that. GOOD JOB !
Awesome work! Thank you for sharing. In my case with my 2011 jeep, I was able to reach underneath my steering wheel to just replace the blend door motor and I think it was strong enough to pull that melted seal apart. But because of your video, I now have a full understanding why it failed in the first place. Thank you!
Question: if my car has a hard time or takes a long time to blow out cold air when it’s hot out, what’s the issue? AC clutch, evaporator valve? I’m getting good pressure, doesn’t seem like it’s a refrigerant leak. I do somewhat hear the fan bearings on the front right dash when you kick on the AC as well but it still blows so could be ok…. I could also try cleaning the condenser too…any suggestions?
Did it work for you?
I'm in your shoes and tryna find out which route to take
Thank you for the video.
Way too much bs for a manufacturer defect.. awesome job of the detail in the video you did..
Thank you
Exactly my prob on my customers 11. I'm about to start and swap the whole box. Only drivers door is jammed..gears and actuators both bad though
Mine are being done by my mechanic today.. but he didn’t take the entire das off, just replacing both separately from each side. Nice job though.
Is it possible that another blend door is jammed on a 2014 grand cherokee be cause everything is working fine exept i have no air defrost? When i push the defrost button i dont have airflows on my windshiled.
Great job
I have a 2014 durrango the doors in my HVAC box done the same thing. As read someone else commented this should be mopar problem, it definitely should be. This is a big job. I went to my local dodge dealer and got the part numbers for the stuff i would need. Off coarse they were telling me to change the HC, EVC and hc tubes. They said I needed the heater core tubes because they were 1 time use. So I wanted to ask you at the end of your video did you repalace the o rings on the heater core tubes if so whats the part #. Your Video is great by the way too. I do everything myself but sometimes just need that little bit of confidence from a videoo like yours that i'm doing it the right way.
Yes I replace the o-rings but I cant remember what the part number was . I did get them from dodge dealer so I don't know what's going on with that , Maybe they are trying to up sale you on parts .I would call a different dealer and ask them , Also there could be a different design between Cherokee and Durrango , Anyway good luck
How much was the tab for this repair? My Jeep needs the box done also.
Thanks you legend
Mi saludi maestro quiero que .e ayude con problemas que tengo con una cheroki 2014 creo que tiene problemas con el control ac de las aplica cuando quiera
Great work. Best to replace the seal with a new rubber one. That old seal will deteriorate and blow out through the vents in the future. No one wants to do this job twice.
A good alternative fix for someone that can't afford to have the problem correctly Is to create a new stop for the gear so it wouldn't fully rest up against the rubber seal so it wouldn't get stuck again
nice video, I'm planning on replacing the blend door box on my 2013 Jeep Grand cherokee myself but I had a question . Could you just disconnect the heater core lines at the blend door box and just remove that without removing the whole assembly from the vehicle?
I don't know if you can get to the 2 screws , It would be worth trying . Let me know if it works , that would save a lot of time .
@@heartlandmechanic I finished the replacement of the mixing box thanks to your video. I do have an issue now with the display screen reading damaged key fab and that with either key used. I can insert either key and start the jeep. Do you have any ideas what could be wrong?
@@fundog8922 Wow that's a new one on me . Lets try to manually reboot the passive entry module , Disconnect both battery cables and then jump the cables together ( touch cable ends together - UNHOOKED from battery ) for a few minutes . This will discharge the capacitor and reset set the module .
It seems that all the part numbers are the same for jeep and durrango. The mopar part # for heater distribution housing is # 68224169ab the o-rings are 68239586aa and the heater core clamps are 68031980aa. Hope this will help some people too. I personally emailed Danny he emailed me right back about a question I had. Thanks
whats the part number for the housing?
Hi Sir, what about after a replacement of dashboard of a 2018 jeep grand cherokee and needing some codes for starting and run and drive?
Not sure if I know what you mean , if your installing the old dash back in it should start ( battery disconnect and reconnect should clear any PCM codes and reset calibration on blend door motors ).
@@heartlandmechanic Yea, you right, but I mean if you install a new dash, restoring a salvage 2018 jeep grand cherokee and dont wanna start... only lights, no run
@@crys161 have you had a scanner hooked up and ran it for codes , possibly the security system has you locked out , One thing you could try is if you have the original instrument cluster try and plug it in and see if that helps .
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee, passenger side blows only heat when AC is on.
Questions,
1) I have heard it’s possible to replace the blend door motor and gear by working through the opening after removing only the glove box. In your opinion do you think that’s possible?
2) What would a Jeep dealer charge ( approximately)for this job in labor, $1500-$2000
Thank you - awesome video!
Yes , the blend door motor can be replaced thru glove box opening , I don't know how much the dealer will charge for repair .
Yes it’s possible. I just removed my on a 2011 Jeep , because the blend door gear was broken on the passenger seat,but also the assembly actuator box is not good, in my case the plastic is melted because of the heated , so I think I will prefer to pay $1200 😅, I don’t even have all the tools to do what this guy is doing on this video. And it look so difficult 🥶
Looks like around $325 shipped for the box. How much for all the labor? I'd like to DIY but damn, lots to remove.
I have the same year GC and for a minute there thought that was my car that I had recently bought. Mine is a 5.7 HEMI though. I realize you went through a lot of work on replacing that blower housing. My question is " What's going to stop it from happening again? Did it look like the damper gaskets were made of the same crap material? My AC works for a while, then without touching anything, I lose the AC and the air seems to get very week even at full blast. I can turn off the system for 15 minutes or so and then it works fine again but only for a short while.
Sam issue here! Start the car and AC works just fine but after a while air starts to come out warmer and air flow goes down. The fan seems to run at full speed, I even tested it without filter, no change. Something blocks the air gradually and then recovers. From how the system works, it makes no sense that air stops coming out and then recovers... Not sure doing this huge effort will solve our problem. Any ideas/advance?
thanks :)
does all thsi need to to be done to change the expansion valve as well
you will not have to remove dash but you will have to remove that outer firewall to get to expansion valve , remove the nut holding a/c lines on the valve , pull the lines from the valve and there will be 2 torx screws that will need to be removed , the valve will come out then .
I see a for sale sign in my future I can see it in the windshield of a 2012 GC
How many hours did this take you to remove it or rather, how many hours do you think a shop would charge to do it? Just started the video sorry if you say it later on
I think it was around 10 hours
Quick question! Do a grand Cherokee 2011 and a 2017 use the same housing you are changing?
Sorry but I do not know . I'll try to look it up tomorrow and let you know .
By looking at pictures in service manual they look the same , The part numbers for evap core and heater core are the same . I CAN'T 100% guarantee they are the same but it sure looks like it .
Let me ask you this, Do I have to do all that to replace the expansion valve too?
No , just the under hood part , when you get the a/c lines loose at the firewall you will see 2 torx bolts , remove bolts and expansion valve will come out .
I notice signs from the dash vinyl that looks like the dash had been removed.
What part number did u order
I just came back from the Jeep dealer with my WK2 2017 for this exact problem. Cost me $3200 Canadian dollars.
My 2011 JGC has a failed blend doors also. Nice vehicle but this problem really stinks. :( Door gaskets melt and F up the whole deal.
Honestly did more work than needed. You don't have to take out the entire mounting bracket there's two little bolts in the top corner that are hidden. If you take those out you can take off the entire dash without removing the brackets.
1. Must have tool: Harbor Freight, PITTSBURGH Ratcheting Right Angle Multi-Bit Screwdriver Set, 8 Piece $2.99
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable (under passenger seat for 20 mins.) to recalibrate the blend door actuator system.
What a huge amount of work, all because of a failed plastic part.
Remember when they use to make all that stuff out of metal , They would last forever .
@@heartlandmechanic
The longer an item lasts, the shorter the life of the company who makes it!
@@conradeddie3776 So true .
Fantastic video😇 my wife's Jeep is a 2011 Grand Cherokee one minute the AC blows perfectly cold then it quits, one minute the low pressure side will be 35 then it would drops down to 20 and both lines get warm so I'm thinking it's the expansion valve I wish we had a garage like yours nearby I can just take it to🙃 any advice would be appreciated 😁 Thank you
I think your right , sounds like it's the expansion valve .
@@heartlandmechanic Thank you so very much and Have a Blessed week 😇 I'm new subscribe to your channel and I'm a follower, Thank you again 😇
2011 dodge Durango the same setup.
How long will this job take with one person with no breaks?
Book time is 10 hours . This is a very time consuming job , to be on the safe side give yourself 2 to day's to complete . ( I had about 16 hours in this one , with a lot of breaks & cursing lol . )
@@heartlandmechanic Thank you! Not sure if I'm willing to do this one. Considering my girl just damaged the front fender. May be time to let her go 😆
Hey Heartland Mechanic, I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee that makes a buzzing/rattling noise when I’m going low speeds. It only makes the noise when I lightly touch the throttle. The noises seems to come from the area slightly above 7:19 in this video. I can send you the video of the noise. I’m desperate and can’t afford to take it to a shop. I don’t believe it’s a serious issue. Thanks for any help!
how much did this job cost
My 2011 is doing that exactly thats a massive job. Probebly not worth it. By by AC.
Glad I don’t have a 2014
Lol , me too
JESUS. CHRIST LER