I got a 350 rocket engine that I'm in the process of tearing down and doing so I'm just finding more and more rust. Plus at this point I'm trying to save as much money and labor on it. This definitely helps a bunch too
Profiling the blocks water and oil journals is always good to do before taking it to the machine shop so all those chards of metal are also washed out.. I also do my oil pump mating and enlarging before the block goes for cleaning.. All that outside flash is also nice to remove. Not only because the block looks far better, but in some cases it may save you from stitches!!
Lye is the main ingredient in what folks use to clean their blocks, so use gloves and eye-wear--that rinsing water spray can hit an angle and shoot caustic stuff right back at you.
Another step you may consider is to chemically clean the cooling system before disassembly. Of course the engine needs to be running. There are products out there that will dissolved all that corrosion. I use Liquid Intelligence 239, comes up like new. It was originally designed to clear out rust in the buick straight 8 block.
The thing to remember is every diminution you cut comes off the center of the crank even on a stock rebuild. The quickest and best way to pick up free horse power ( even in a stock rebuild ) is always aline bore the main caps no matter what. Yeah I know it might not need it, but if you just automatically cut the caps & do it, every other machine operation will come out dead nuts on the money because everything comes off that fresh cut center line . The main reason I say this is, how many times has that block been cycled cold to hot back to cold? and how many times has it been over heated to move the main webs in said block ? In most cases you have no idea, so it's always a very good idea to aline bore the main caps if you don't know the history of the block even on a stock rebuild. It's just a good thing to do and it's not really all that expensive.
@Joe Mitch Still doesn't change the bottom line, and it has nothing to do with Magic ! . The bottom line is every other diminution in the block in someway is held off the center bore of the crank alignment. When you bore the block, the boring bar locates from the main caps, when you load the block to be decked it's bolted in from the location of the main caps. if the caps are not in line every other operation will be off no matter how good the machinist. Plus the dyno shows a marked increase in power ( free power) if the the main caps are dead nuts on . Doing a align bore is a must do if you have no history or the block has a ton of miles on the block ( block needs to be bored .030 over ) . I agree, there are a few operations you CAN over look, ( AKA Roller cam etc. ) but not the alignment of the main caps, that's a must do item if your looking for all the free horsepower any fast motor can put out. This is not a opinion, it's a clear cut fact, straight map caps equal more power over almost anything else.
@@hydroy1 When you align bore the main caps you need a shorter timing chain and larger crank sprocket to suit, right? I kind of want to align bore this ls1 stroker I'm building however I have already purchased a standard cloyes timing kit so I'm tempted to just not bother to save myself the trouble of selling my parts and buying new ones.. but it sounds like I'd be an idiot not to do it on a fresh stroker :/
I was taught to use a ridge reamer before popping out the pistons. I understand that you all never will have to reuse pistons, but Id like to see you demonstrate the use of one for the new kids next time you do a tear down.
What reference surface do you use to establish the "squareness" of the block when the bare block-head interface surfaces are being finished? Do you assume that the bottom oil pan surface face is sufficiently flat to use as the mounting surface, without further machining of that surface? Great video.
Good stuff to know. I plan on taking my GM 305 v6 downstate to Thirlby's in the future to have work done on it and bring it back to life as an above-stock cruiser. I just hope that it's able to be worked out since parts are pretty scarce for it.
305 parts are hard to come by? I'm just getting back in engine stuff, and apparently stuck in the 80's/90's when 302, 305 and 350's are everywhere and in almost everything...
The more you know before going to the Machinest will save you MONEY! If the machine shop doesn’t ask what is this going to be used for or goal . Run away fast! These things are the minimum need to know for a quality build. How heavy the vehicle is ,hp vs octane requirements and daily drivers or weekend warriors.❤❤❤ thanks
GM blocks in partiular main tunnels are always 'woppy' The factory has undersize and oversize bearings to fix that. But not available in the aftermarket. And they work fine for normal use. All manufacturers do this. But not 9 thou under as I have experienced!! That was the crank however and I got a way with a 10thou shell.This also applies to the cranks. When you disassemble read the shells. They will be marked with oversize or undersize. Ideally put a straight edge or verified straight bar to check the tunnel. Then get it line bored!! Most other brands you MAY get away with, but again read the shells. Most cranks ideally require a polish if that is the case you will lose 1/4 of a thou and possibly more
Thanks for making this video! Is it advisable to stick to engine builder shops who specialize in your type of engine, or will most machinists be able to understand your engine layout and the piston options/crank options? I have an l28 (straight 6) that I’d love to get built but have been weary about independent builders. Thoughts?
Came across this video. In the process of pulling a 2.7l engine out of a Charger. Seized up due to lack of oil. Planning on doing a rebuild on it. What components should I take to a machine shop? I assume the crankshaft, cause most likely that is fouled up since the engine doesn't spin. Anything else I should consider taking to them?
I read somewhere that Nissan applies a Moly coating on the piston skirts of their newer engines. If I get my engine rebuilt, should I request that? Will it make a difference?
Asking for advice. I've got a project truck, a '51 Chevy 5-window pickup with a '66 327. I'm going to tear it down to the frame and am contemplating rebuilding the engine myself. But I've never rebuilt anything more complicated than a carburetor, so this will be a learning experience. I watch Devin's Redline Rebuild, which is educational, but it of course doesn't show every step. Any "Engine Rebuilds for Dummies" type of resources out there that you all know of? Thanks for any advice.
Got a pentastart v6 how much am i expected to be around for cleaning, inspection and decking for all the main engine parts? I will be calling machine shops around here but last time I did an overhaul was 2019 so I forgot and plus my previous was a 4 cyl engine this one is 6 cyl, 1 block 2 heads
Boa noite. Na verdade todos os videos tem legendas e ainda tem a tradução automática que funciona bem. Verifique as configurações do seu navegador ou versão do TH-cam. Realmente esse canal é ótimo, estou esperando ele terminar aquela ST70.
We have a 1941 Stovebolt with the same crack in the same place. Just saying! Plan is send it away for cold stitch or weld. Plan b is a mooring for a a little cruiser I have my eye on.
Don't go to the extremes... different chambers have different techniques. Similar theory to deburring the block. Cost benefit analysis sometimes for performance buy a better head or more intake.
I allways aspired to be that Dude that does everything himself. But the processes in a machine shop are So expensive hardware wise that i don't think thats ever gonna happen.
Not saying this to be argumentative but Oven Cleaner works better for cleaning blocks and heads, the cheap stuff at like dollar tree works better than the name brands, give it a try ????
I've been doing motors since 75 but I am still learning new stuff
Welcome to the club !
My late Dad used to say that "A day without learning is a wasted day." Wise man.
Masterclass with professor Davin. I find every clip most informative so just keep'em commin. Shoutout to the cameraman also.
I was hired to do this at 18yrs old. For my Lawyer. That beast expunged my 2nd felony case. I miss you Mr. YANCEY. RIP
Nice work of the die grinder to remove casting flash and slag.
I got a 350 rocket engine that I'm in the process of tearing down and doing so I'm just finding more and more rust. Plus at this point I'm trying to save as much money and labor on it. This definitely helps a bunch too
Davin is the uncle every one of us gear guys wished they grew up with.
Profiling the blocks water and oil journals is always good to do before taking it to the machine shop so all those chards of metal are also washed out.. I also do my oil pump mating and enlarging before the block goes for cleaning.. All that outside flash is also nice to remove. Not only because the block looks far better, but in some cases it may save you from stitches!!
Thank you so much this is helpful! I am doing my very first rebuild after hydrolocking it. And I am over thinking everything.
Great video! Newbie getting into the engine building world and just broke open my lq9 to see what kind of fun I can get into
Hi, how about the oil ducts surrounding the engine....is it to be inspected as well??
Cool stuff . Can't wait for the next redline rebuild video ( whatever engine rebuild it is )
Lye is the main ingredient in what folks use to clean their blocks, so use gloves and eye-wear--that rinsing water spray can hit an angle and shoot caustic stuff right back at you.
Good timing, I've got a block I'll be sending off to the shop soon!
Davin should have his own TV show. He'd draw big numbers.
The learning continues and the experience increases. Cheers Davin 👍
Another step you may consider is to chemically clean the cooling system before disassembly. Of course the engine needs to be running. There are products out there that will dissolved all that corrosion. I use Liquid Intelligence 239, comes up like new. It was originally designed to clear out rust in the buick straight 8 block.
The thing to remember is every diminution you cut comes off the center of the crank even on a stock rebuild. The quickest and best way to pick up free horse power ( even in a stock rebuild ) is always aline bore the main caps no matter what. Yeah I know it might not need it, but if you just automatically cut the caps & do it, every other machine operation will come out dead nuts on the money because everything comes off that fresh cut center line . The main reason I say this is, how many times has that block been cycled cold to hot back to cold? and how many times has it been over heated to move the main webs in said block ? In most cases you have no idea, so it's always a very good idea to aline bore the main caps if you don't know the history of the block even on a stock rebuild. It's just a good thing to do and it's not really all that expensive.
@Joe Mitch Still doesn't change the bottom line, and it has nothing to do with Magic ! . The bottom line is every other diminution in the block in someway is held off the center bore of the crank alignment. When you bore the block, the boring bar locates from the main caps, when you load the block to be decked it's bolted in from the location of the main caps. if the caps are not in line every other operation will be off no matter how good the machinist. Plus the dyno shows a marked increase in power ( free power) if the the main caps are dead nuts on . Doing a align bore is a must do if you have no history or the block has a ton of miles on the block ( block needs to be bored .030 over ) . I agree, there are a few operations you CAN over look, ( AKA Roller cam etc. ) but not the alignment of the main caps, that's a must do item if your looking for all the free horsepower any fast motor can put out. This is not a opinion, it's a clear cut fact, straight map caps equal more power over almost anything else.
@@hydroy1 When you align bore the main caps you need a shorter timing chain and larger crank sprocket to suit, right?
I kind of want to align bore this ls1 stroker I'm building however I have already purchased a standard cloyes timing kit so I'm tempted to just not bother to save myself the trouble of selling my parts and buying new ones.. but it sounds like I'd be an idiot not to do it on a fresh stroker :/
Great, Thanks for sharing Davin👍
Getting old, but beter.
Davin your a Genius!
I was taught to use a ridge reamer before popping out the pistons. I understand that you all never will have to reuse pistons, but Id like to see you demonstrate the use of one for the new kids next time you do a tear down.
check out the "Uncle Tony's Garage" channel, he has a big hate for ridge reamers and discusses why--and he's a big re-user of pistons.
Thank You. from La Pine Oregon
What reference surface do you use to establish the "squareness" of the block when the bare block-head interface surfaces are being finished? Do you assume that the bottom oil pan surface face is sufficiently flat to use as the mounting surface, without further machining of that surface? Great video.
The ultimate drinking game is going through Davin's videos and taking a drink every time he says "relative to." Great videos Hagerty, keep it up:)
Good stuff to know. I plan on taking my GM 305 v6 downstate to Thirlby's in the future to have work done on it and bring it back to life as an above-stock cruiser. I just hope that it's able to be worked out since parts are pretty scarce for it.
Did you see the channel “myvintageiron7512” rebuild of a 305 V6? He’s a machine shop. I have a 305 V6 myself, thus my interest.
Xcel has parts on west Orem Houston texas
@@gregholloway2656v8
305 parts are hard to come by? I'm just getting back in engine stuff, and apparently stuck in the 80's/90's when 302, 305 and 350's are everywhere and in almost everything...
Can we get a list of your bore gauges, ect that you used in your last video. Much appreciated. Thank you. Great videos 👍
Great job 👍👍👍....
This was very helpful thanks man 👍
The more you know before going to the Machinest will save you MONEY!
If the machine shop doesn’t ask what is this going to be used for or goal . Run away fast! These things are the minimum need to know for a quality build. How heavy the vehicle is ,hp vs octane requirements and daily drivers or weekend warriors.❤❤❤ thanks
GM blocks in partiular main tunnels are always 'woppy' The factory has undersize and oversize bearings to fix that. But not available in the aftermarket. And they work fine for normal use. All manufacturers do this. But not 9 thou under as I have experienced!! That was the crank however and I got a way with a 10thou shell.This also applies to the cranks.
When you disassemble read the shells. They will be marked with oversize or undersize. Ideally put a straight edge or verified straight bar to check the tunnel.
Then get it line bored!!
Most other brands you MAY get away with, but again read the shells.
Most cranks ideally require a polish if that is the case you will lose 1/4 of a thou and possibly more
Thanks for making this video! Is it advisable to stick to engine builder shops who specialize in your type of engine, or will most machinists be able to understand your engine layout and the piston options/crank options? I have an l28 (straight 6) that I’d love to get built but have been weary about independent builders. Thoughts?
Yup 👍 something always goes haywire; never fails
Came across this video. In the process of pulling a 2.7l engine out of a Charger. Seized up due to lack of oil. Planning on doing a rebuild on it. What components should I take to a machine shop? I assume the crankshaft, cause most likely that is fouled up since the engine doesn't spin. Anything else I should consider taking to them?
Do the block has to empty to take the machine shop or they disassembled
Budget wise is it better to rebuild or get a long block from autozone
Davin . Block shown with the crack one end to the other is a candidate for a boat anchor. 🧐
Please do a time lapse on a 440!
I read somewhere that Nissan applies a Moly coating on the piston skirts of their newer engines. If I get my engine rebuilt, should I request that? Will it make a difference?
Thanks you sir 🙏
Asking for advice. I've got a project truck, a '51 Chevy 5-window pickup with a '66 327. I'm going to tear it down to the frame and am contemplating rebuilding the engine myself. But I've never rebuilt anything more complicated than a carburetor, so this will be a learning experience. I watch Devin's Redline Rebuild, which is educational, but it of course doesn't show every step. Any "Engine Rebuilds for Dummies" type of resources out there that you all know of? Thanks for any advice.
Got a pentastart v6 how much am i expected to be around for cleaning, inspection and decking for all the main engine parts? I will be calling machine shops around here but last time I did an overhaul was 2019 so I forgot and plus my previous was a 4 cyl engine this one is 6 cyl, 1 block 2 heads
Can you provide a ball park $$ for maching an XKE V12 Jaguar engine block for new pistons?
bro... I really like your channel, if you can put subtitles at least in English, I'm Brazilian and it makes it easier for us to watch your videos
Boa noite. Na verdade todos os videos tem legendas e ainda tem a tradução automática que funciona bem. Verifique as configurações do seu navegador ou versão do TH-cam. Realmente esse canal é ótimo, estou esperando ele terminar aquela ST70.
Was that a stove bolt 6 block with the nasty crack?
We have a 1941 Stovebolt with the same crack in the same place. Just saying! Plan is send it away for cold stitch or weld. Plan b is a mooring for a a little cruiser I have my eye on.
More Thirlby=more good. How does one port a head? How to hone? Crack repair? Also: fu manchu rocks.
Don't go to the extremes... different chambers have different techniques. Similar theory to deburring the block. Cost benefit analysis sometimes for performance buy a better head or more intake.
I allways aspired to be that Dude that does everything himself. But the processes in a machine shop are So expensive hardware wise that i don't think thats ever gonna happen.
Gotta put that on a shirt
Ahhhhh shizzle sticks
Can of Flex Seal just $12.99 will patch up that cracked block lol
Hahahahahahahahaaaaa...
I'd due more measurin @ disasembly than shown here.
Refreshing my wifes 4.0 Explorer so she can be more dependable getting to the store & back with my sandwich shtuff.
👍
“Lock N Stitch Inc” company couldn’t fix that block?
Of course there’s a 4oh 😂
Not saying this to be argumentative but Oven Cleaner works better for cleaning blocks and heads, the cheap stuff at like dollar tree works better than the name brands, give it a try ????