G.I. Joe: The Spirit of Yellowing - Vintage Toy Review Hasbro ARAH
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2016
- Michael dives into the RetroBlasting Archive to investigate the yellowing plastic of vintage action figures and discover why G.I. Joe figure Spirit might hold a clue to the answer...
#RetroBlasting #GIJoe #Spirit #yellowing - บันเทิง
I can't believe folks are still arguing about this? The causes of the yellowing have been well known for awhile. Starting in the late 60's to early 70's US regulation came about that required the materials used in children's toys and similar products be flame retardant. The main retardant used was various Bromine mixtures (BFR's). These were mixed into the plastic. It is the Bromine compound that yellows over time as it decays to a yellowish brown. (The BFR is an organic compound so it will change and decay over time.) The mixes and amounts added to the plastics evolved over the years as formulas improved. There was also a great deal of variety in how much got added from plastic batch to plastic batch as in many cases the flame retardent was added at the factory point and not already pre loaded in the raw colored plastic pellets. So each time the injection molding factory loaded up a new batch of plastic they dumped BFR in as they melted it. The amount added could be imprecise.
So what does this mean? well firstly, nothing will stop the yellowing. It will happen over time. It is the slow breakdown and aging of the flame retardant. BUT direct UV or sunlight exposure and higher temperatures will often speed up the BFR's breakdown and yellowing. (This is why old Video Game Consoles and Computers yellow so badly. They have internal heat sources.) If as in your example you have two identical figures that have discolored differently or parts of a toy that discolor differently, all it means is they came from different batches of plastic at the factory. Your two Spirits were not made on the same day or in the same place. One was mixed with more BFR.
As far as reversing the yellowing? There is much debate on that. I tend to suspect that most of the methods are simply bleaching the outer layer of the plastic or the BFR. My gut tells me that it probably makes the plastic more brittle over time. But I have no concrete proof of that. Like you I tend to tolerate the yellowing.
Toys from the late 70's and early 80's tend to have the highest BFR content with BFR's most prone to yellowing. Later toys from the late 90's onward tend to use mixes that gave better, or they reduced the amount needed to do the FR job. Modern plastics tend to hold their color much much better. (although the tradeoff is they don't get as bright of colors anymore as they have reduced the use of certain metalic compounds that are used for bright whites, reds and yellows. Things like Cadmium.)
This is very interesting and I'm inclined to agree with you. However, I have some Star Wars Original Trilogy collection action figures from the mid-2000s. They are still in the package, were never exposed to UV light (in my care), and were not in excessive heat or humid environments; yet they are yellowed in the packaging. Essentially, I bought them and put them in my closet because I didn't have space to display them. The Stormtrooper, Han Solo, and Boba Fett all have yellowed torsos. It really pisses me off, too.
Joseph Mama All plastic intended for use in childrens toys will yellow, because it is all required to have the Flame Retardants added. It will not matter if it is kept in the original packaging. Left sealed. Hermetically sealed in a vacuum. It will still yellow as the organic molecules of the BRF age and decay. The process begins the moment the plastic finishes curing. The only thing we have any very limited control over is how fast that occurs. UV light such as direct sunlight or moderate to high heat will speed the process of yellowing as it speeds the breakdown of the Bromine Compound. (Why many chemicals are traditionally stored and shipped in brown bottles). This is why if you leave a toy in the sunlight, the side facing the sun will yellow more than the side in shadow. But yellowing is gonna happen.
Most modern plastics will not yellow as bad. But it depends on what they are using for Flame Retardant. For example, Lego, where part to part color quality is something they strive for as part of their QC, uses newer FR's that will not yellow as fast or as much and hold color better over time. of course these are expensive, which is why Lego costs twice what a knockoff brand does. Other manufacturers will vary based on costs. Many will still use the old standby's as they are cheap and plentiful. And for example Hasbro is not really banking on their big box retail action figures being "Generational" toys. (In fact they prefer if they are not).
Notice that the yellowing occurs regardless of the type of plastic used. ABS, polystyrene, polycarbonate, PVC etc. That's because it isn't the plastic. It's the additive that is common to all.
You may notice cases where import toys don't yellow as much or at all. For example classic Takara Transformers and Microman toys hold color much better than their North American counterparts Hasbro Transformers and Mego Micronauts. Because the Asian runs of them at the time did not require the additives to the plastic. Similarly plastic model kits often will not yellow or yellow to the degree, as they largely avoided being categorized as "Childrens Toys", or anything that would require FR such as electronics.
Finally there is another source of some yellowing, although it is not common on toys. Some clear protective overcoats, such as a clear acrylic may yellow very very slightly over time. (if you've seen old floor polish yellowing a bit this is the one.) This will be nowhere near as noticeable as the yellowing plastic. Generally seen as a faint color warming of white painted parts.
Finally realize it is happening to every plastic part of the toy. It's just that you don't tend to notice it in other colors. Reds, Browns, Greens etc tend to just look a hair warmer in tone. Blue shifts to green and obviously whites become yellow.
andrew taylor I completely understand what you are saying, I was just referring to the action figures yellowing in like 10 or so years as opposed to 40+. I know the process happens with all toys, just pissed that it happened so soon with these figures. Hasbro uses cheap materials all the time so the poor quality doesn't surprise me. I was just hoping the white would stay white a little bit longer. That's all.
Hi Andrew, off topic with regards to yellowing, I read an article in Salon or Slate about the lifespan of poly-vinyl chloride (PVC), which, like all plastics, gradually expels the "softening" agent molecules while growing increasingly more brittle, like pure plastic, across a lifespan of around 140 years. I wonder if this means that within 140 years, all of our toys, no matter how well curated even at a museum, will have "turned to powder" or whether it means the plastic will be so brittle (and possibly reek of ammonia or chlorine from the lost softening agent) that it no longer can be handled safely, but would otherwise linger around in a museum forever? (Not that it really matters, considering I'll be long gone--I'm just curious about the nature of plastics; I once assumed they'd exist "forever".
Tim Hammack It will depend on the plastic. Some last a very very long time. Like the Acrylic Polycarbonates. As long as you aren't beating them with UV rays they hold up well and do not get that brittle. PVC is prone to degrade over time. It is more of a hard rubber. As it outgasses it brittles. Probably the best examples of what happens is to look at historic plastics like Bakelite, or even older Civil War era stuff. Bakelite was once viewed as unbreakable. But after almost a century it develops a fragility much like porcelain china. Some other plastics such as ABS hold up well over time.
Figure your PVC action figures will not be long term art pieces in another 2 or 3 centuries. Although if it is any condolence, they will likely outlast you or I.
i took alot of acid in the 90s and I never discolored
Not permanently anyways
I have an ESB Chewbacca that is still sealed in its original packaging. It was bought by my parents in the 80s and forgotten in our attic all this time. When I found him about a month ago I noticed all 4 of his limbs turned green while the torso and head remained brown. It was never opened, handled, or saw the light of day. The only 2 factors would be heat in the summer and cold in the winter. I've seen storm shadows in original packaging, never opened, completely yellowed except his wrist bands.
Great video. I have my entire Joe collection in a bed room closet, bagged and stored in three identical tackle boxes since 2003. My Storm Shadow was purchased in 2000 on eBay and was bright white for many years but recently I opened him up and he's yellowed terribly. I chalked it up to the plastic aging but now this video has me thinking.
Great job! The intro is much better now. Straight to your very good content. Well done. Keep it up.
I hate to break it to you Ben, but the intro is *always* short for non-feature content. You act like the long intro is used all the time, likely because you've binge watched all of our features. We haven't used the long intro since February's Tron, but we *will* use it again for feature presentations. - Michael
When I was HEAVILY into trading Joes. I would consider yellowing a "seal of authenticity!"... This is not a bad thing?
AWESOME CHANNEL!...SWEET DUSTY!
+Thizlamic thanks man! He's been with me since I was a kid!
Really enjoy ur vids..thx for the work & love into it that we all have inside us from our childhood
Very good video. The mystery is still at hand. But your advise of the fluorescent lights and sun light for sure is extremely helpful!
Thanks for the content. Very cool observations. Love it!
Thanks for another informative vid! I think your explanation is very well thought out, and the evidence speaks for itself!
I used to work for a plastics company & you pretty much hit the nail on the head. Plastics contain chemicals that break down when exposed to UV. Some break down/show more wear more than others depending on the color & chemicals present. Also the oils/acids in your sweat doesn't help either. I would recommend handling w/ gloves & storing in a dark place w/ a stable moisture & temp.
you stole your brother's Spirit?!!! Thats cold, man.
If he’s anything like my older brother, he’s practically forgotten he owned any toys. So I now have a pretty sweet SW collection that WAS mostly his 🙂
very informative thank you for work and time put into this channel
This video has really got me thinking. Good job making it too!
Finally, I can watch your latest videos and enjoy'em!..Some radical changes happened in my life, so i couldn't watch the tube to much...but I always find your works cool and relaxing Dudes :) (Liked and shared)
That's an incredible way to show two of the exact same item went through the exact same experience.
FANTASTIC video!!!
I think you nailed it. I had a Micro Machines Stormtrooper helmet playset in the late 90's that sat in a bedroom window. The sides exposed to the sun were nice and tan after a year. I also had a minty white Jetfire from a few years before that was kept out of the sun and never on display due to a broken limb. He was transformed dozens of times and his played with unbroken appendage became yellow while his loose arm that lived in a box maintained it's whiteness. I'm sure there's a ton of contributing factors and variables, but the two you stated are the main culprits.
Loving the weekly videos
+DoctorFinn We're doing our best to get back in the saddle.
Great video Michael! :)
Michael, this is truly an informative segment. -I'm inclined to agree that finger oils are the MAJOR cause of discolored, jaundiced toys. -I've some Construx I've had since the mid-to-late 80s that I've played with, CONSTANTLY that have yellowed through the years BECAUSE I handled them so much.
The Retro Brite people claim the yellowing is due to bromide and other chemicals in the plastics reacting with oxygen and UV rays to cause the yellowing.
Their formula and procedure counteracts that chemical reaction and the plastic turns back to normal. That seems to support the theory. It would also fit with Michaels observation that the figures that were handled and played with more are more discolored, maybe because of finger oils but also maybe because they were exposed to more sunlight?
Great review!👍
Makes sense that finger oils causes yellowing. I know when I bought a very expensive chess set that was wood years ago there was a warning inside the set warning you should clean each piece after each use due to finger oils.👍
Michael, great job on this one. I will be way careful now with my vintage Stormtrooper 👍
Brilliant!! Thanks for this man!
I think I can add an example here. My brother and I had the same Buzz Lightyear as kids. Got them the same Christmas and everything. I, being the massive Toy Story fan I am, played with my Buzz a lot. My brother, however, played with his a bit, but not as much as I did. Mine, especially after some recent storage(room renovation, long story), got a good bit of yellow on it. My brother's Buzz(which I kept in the EXACT same box and conditions)is still perfectly white. Another example, my collection of white Bionicles I got from my older brother. Plenty of display, but less play.
I have an even better "lay experiment" me and my best friend in the 1980s inadvertently conducted, than your "2 Spirits" one. We did it on accident with Tomax and Xamot, the COBRA *literal* twins. And those 2 figures were sold in the same double-blister pack, presumably using the same chemical compounds. .... The only time our figures (this friend was my next door neighbo and classmate; same age) ever left the house, was that we did play with them in his half-way above-ground swimming pool (it was a nice pool). We would take the figures, and a few smaller vehicles, into the pool, with the usual chemicals (chlorine mostly, I guess). This was on the Gulf Coast of Mississippi. It was hot or warm most of the year, but the pool did get partially drained and covered during the mid-Winter. To make a long story short, one year one of the figures (the twin with the scar) got left in the pool and it was covered, and he went "missing" for the 5 months or so that we couldn't swim. We had no idea what had happened to him. So the next year, in later-Spring, when the pool was uncovered, we found the "lost" twin (and a COBRA Eel, he came with a vehicle, the COBRA swamp deal; and maybe another figure or two). And 4 or 5 months immersed in the chlorinated (and whatever) water, and possibly with steady UV coming into the water (prism-effect), he had turned into an "old man". All the red (more burgundy) and brown-red (their hair) had turned grey (yes, grey; odd I know). And those guys had reddish hair, a sash or belt, and maybe some pads that had changed color completely and evenly. The blues and silvers were still the same and vibrant. And like I said, it was just the twin with the cheek scar. And the scar had gone grey-ish too.So now that one twin looked 35 yrs older than his "identical" brother that had gone inside the house for the Winter. We thought it was pretty cool. (The same color shifts happened to that Eel, and I think a weird figure named "Raptor" that was a falconer. He was dumb. No one missed the falconer over the Winter.) .... I just thought you might like the story, since it's about Tomax and Xamot.
finally another gi joe vid! thank you:)
I think there are many reasons why toys discolour, I'm sure your handling them is one of them .Ive visited many museums and when handling artefacts i am always asked to put on gloves so that any oils or bacteria present on the skin can't effect the article. I think your partly right about the oils on the skin Michael, I've been grabbing and touching on a regular basis a white baseball cap and a new stormtrooper figure and both are showing signs of a brown yellow hue,its pale at the moment but I've only been doing this for a short time. I was seven when i saw star wars and i played with the figures endlessly and i really mean that ,i still have many of my original models left their in a sad state , but it reminds me of the great times i had playing with them.Some of my friends parents made them keep the figures in their cards, so they used to come round and play with mine.Maybe they saw the potential money to be made keeping them mint, all i saw were my mates wanting to open them and use for what they were made for. your videos their brilliant ,keep them coming .
I agree 100% that plastic Zip-lock storage bags have no effect on yellowing of plastic. I've stored several G.I.Joe figures in these bags for years, and never seen any of them yellow. In my personal experience with the yellowing effect, I think it's caused by temperature variations (going from very hot to very cold and back again), U/V light exposure (sunlight or intense indoor lighting), excessive handling (skin oils, like Michael says), and sometimes it's just the chemical compounds that Hasbro's Chinese suppliers used. Sometimes, even figures that are MOC will yellow inside the package, having never been handled, stored in the dark, and stored in a temperature-controlled environment. Nothing you can say then except that it's just a break-down of the chemicals that are in the plastic.
Excellent and informative video! I would agree with the oils from our fingers. Watch how professional conservators handle any rare, old or expensive item. They all use white cotton gloves and always say to never touch the item with your bare fingers because of the oils. That goes for items made from metal to paper. Thank you!
well done sir as always. observation though. if it's the oils that are causing the discoloration workstation it just be in "finger shapes"? I'm thinking specifically of the raven you repaired. thoughts?
Wow great video... I had tha same problem wit a few of my g.i Joe's as well & never fully understood tha reasoning behind it....
Great video I believe your right on point with yellowing.
It has to do with the batches of plastic used. That's why you're only seeing specific parts yellowing. Look at stuff like old Nintendo systems. Often times one half of their outer shell will completely yellow while the other won't change at all. It can't be because kids pawed up only half of their Nintendo's or they wouldn't change so perfectly evenly. It's the chemistry of the plastic itself due to the flame retardants mixed into them. They'll all probably discolor eventually but some batches got it worse than others.
This is one explanation that actually has physical evidence, very helpful indeed! My own theory is that its a combination of several factors (batch of plastic used, sunlight exposure, and skin oils) which is why its so hard to pinpoint and isolate any one factor as the definite cause.
+Wilson Tortosa yeah it's a great mystery that doesn't abate
+RetroBlasting I can definitely say though that modern plastics seem to be even more susceptible. My white Lego Exo-Force bricks bought several years ago are already turning tan.
I'll just say that I bought a classic style Lanard Corps figure 3-pack from Walt-Mart about 10+ years ago, the pack was for customizing old G. I. Joes. Well, there was snow trooper in the 3-pack that was about 80% white. I never played with the figure, as I was well into my 20s. I also never used him for any customizing. Several years ago I put all the unused Corps figures in a pretty airtight, Tupperware-like container. Back in 2014, I opened up the container for the first time in years and was shocked to find the snow trooper was extremely yellowed. So while finger oils might play a part in the yellowing, I'd at least say it is not the only reason these figures yellow. The toy was barely handled at all before I sealed it up. This was also a 10 year old figure as opposed to a 30 year old figure.
awsome info, thanx , do you by any chance have visionaries figures? I would really like to see a video on that toy line. keep up the good work guys.
One of my favourite toys to play with a lot was G1 Ultra Magnus. I never left him outside but he got a lot of play and he went completely yellow. Although with all the play he got that wasn't his biggest problem LOL. Broken smoke stacks, chipped chest paint, glued and soldered/melted leg leg and even a screw in one to keep it together.
Not sure where I picked this tip up, but I have had great success using a product called Clairol Professional Soy4plex Pure White Creme Hair Color Developer, 40 Volume. It is a beauty salon product that contains a high concentration of peroxide. It comes in a cream, so there is no need to mix or add anything to it. If you use it, wear gloves because it'll burn skin. It's very easy to use, and the results have been amazing. I haven't noticed any change in the strength of the plastic, so hopefully there won't be any! I've used it on two vintage Milennium Falcon playsets, some 3 3/4" Snowtroopers and a 12" Stormtrooper. They now look brand new. I hear the yellowing eventually comes back. Hopefully, that won't happen too rapidly. We shall see!
Great video!
thanks for the exclamation because I always wondered what happened about the yellowing on the toys.
Good evening. :D
It maybe a case to case basis. I really don't know.
The reason why I say this, ever since I had my own room back in 1988 (more or less) My G.I.Joes have always been on tables.
Some yellowed and some didn't.
Now that we moved to a new house, ( but not far from our previous house which is less than a kilometer) I have a dedicated room for my toys. They are all on tables exposed daily. Even some of the 90's Ninja Force and Talking backpack G.I.Joes are yellowed. But some of the Vintage Joes I own still retain their original color. And most of my toys displayed, I even haven't touched in years. But I look at them every day. ( I'll attach a link to this post of how part of my toy gallery looks like.)
I live in a tropical country. I think the weather and/or climate has nothing to do with the color change.
I was thinking, If it were sun light the only part exposed to the sun would color change. But when parts color change, it is uniform through out the piece.
That's just some of my observations. But like you, I'm not bothered too much. It seems to add a character to the toys.
Cheers!
th-cam.com/video/nV8WbBPIPwQ/w-d-xo.html
One of my favorite figures is Snowjob, the one I had as a kid I remember being 100% all white, including skis. Nowadays, every time I see one, even MOC, , at least half of all Snowjobs have tanned body parts or skis. Maybe UV light, maybe temperature/climate causes the change. Finger oils are very corrosive on paints, so no doubt emblems and details paint rubs off from that but the yellowing is triggered even in MOC figures, so I think it has to be temperature/humidity or UV light that triggers the early yellowing in some while others look brand new. I guess they'll all go yellow eventually, in colder dry climates they probably last longer.
Serious answer: it's the oils from our fingers (as you said in your video). Examples of oils from fingers screwing things up: 1) When I went to an underground cavern with rocks and crystals during vacation, we were told by the guide to NOT touch anything because the oils from our fingers would harm certain things in the long run. 2) Anyone with extreme acne should never scratch their face since the oils from the fingers will cause more acne to show up around the area they touch.
+retroblasting I agree with you. My Storm Shadow was heavily heavily played with and is now very yellow.
Great video. I use food bags and have had no problems
I know this video was posted awhile ago but I just thought I would weigh in on the subject. I bought a legacy Storm trooper that was never opened and kept in a dark and dry environment. I quickly noticed that it was going yellow. I washed it in mild hot water and dawn dish detergent. I do know for a fact that most products like toys, are sprayed with a very light mist of a type of oil at the factory. I do not know for sure if this could be a factor in the yellowing of the plastic but maybe its something worth looking into. I love RetroBlasting!
makes sense ,great info video thanks to this info my toys are going to last longer ,thanks mike
Another one well done!
Michael and Melinda are the best! I agree and offer to Retroblasting a comparison with the Super Nintendo discoloration. I think that the same thing applies to the bottom yellowing on some systems. That would have indeed have been the portion of the system that everyone touched all the time by human hands.
I found my storm shadow a few months ago and it is very yellow and has been in a leather bag in the dark wrapped in plastic for about 30 years!
Awesome video as always, RB is the best! Maybe I am wrong, but isn't there MIB examples of yellowed Joe figures (or even Star Wars) out there?
My first reaction is to agree with you. My most discolored Joes are my favorites/ones I played with most.
All my joes played with excessively. All my joes yellowed. Makes sense now. Thanks mate
Good point, see a video about the yellow in games consoles and its down to a chemical in the older types of plastic forget the name, there are a few processes that work with games consoles I can't say they work with toys. Though this could still be the plastic becoming brittle. I know this can happen through sunlight exposure. I think you are right I mean also the acid thing, think of how many drinks and food you ate before playing with the toys to, my kids are always eating or dunking their toys in things they shouldnt. So it could be a combination of the various chemicals that have built up on the toys then plus the right tempts and sun exposure the reaction takes place. Think I rambled a bit but point is very very valid good video. As always :)
Ive heard and discovered the same thing with My collections. I assumed exactly what you allude to in this video. Good Info for new collectors
In 1997 I bought my most favorite GI Joe figure Storm Shadow dead mint on card(115 dollars at the time) and kept it in a clam shell bubble, in a shoe box, in my basement. Well after over 15 years of sitting the figure yellowed, I never touched it, kept it out of sunlight, but the yellowing still happened. So I have to shoot down your theory of the acids in your hands while mine MOC yellowed in dark storage. I haven't seen the figure in awhile and now wonder if it's even worst? LOL
Great theory I agree. I have similar issues as well. Figures same era in zip lock bags around the same time. The ones that are yellowing heavy play time when I was a kid.
I recently came across my vintage Millennium Falcon and the whole thing had completely yellowed, all except the cockpit canopy which I handled a lot putting Han and Chewie in and out of there. Maybe vehicles were made from a different plastic as the figures.
Great video as ever. My opinion on the matter is that sunlight definitely plays a part and will always discolour the lighter shades of plastic. Your theory of handling also sounds plausible. Probably also tobacco smoke. I've noticed one more thing though, one that is out of your control. Basically, I started seeing figures online where different parts were discouloured; for instance, one vertical half of the thigh would be badly yellowed and the other as new, as precisely down the join that it could definitely not have been caused sunlight, smoking or handling. My initial theory was that the figures had been taken apart and cobbled together from leftovers from different figures. The more I started seeing it though, the more I started suspecting that it might not be the case, and when I dug out my childhood Joes, there was the proof: The same thing had happened there, and I know for a fact that they were whole original figures where, for some reason, some parts of the figure were yellowed and others not.
I don't know why this is. The only thing I can think is that the chemical composition of the plastic of different parts is slightly different, thereby leaving some parts much more prone to yellowing, though so far I haven't noticed a pattern in certain body parts being more likely to yellow, it seems to be more or less random. Perhaps the parts were manufactured in two or more factories, each using slightly different plastics, then later consolidated and assembled in a location elsewhere. The figure would look perfectly normal and nothing would seem amiss until 30 years down the line.
I agree about the hand oils makes sense.
I think it would be fun if you end your videos with some action play at the end like you did on the video review of that transport. Trully hilarious!
I've seen figures yellowed while still in the package. This may be due to exposure to sunlight, but the package was not sun damaged. This could have even been due to handling done at the factory when the toy was assembled.
u r my favourite TH-cam channel
+Noob whose a no body thanks!
+RetroBlasting np
Hi. What you're saying in this video makes a TON of sense. Have you ever considered doing a Obscure Mighty Orbots episode?
+Shattered Glass 23 nah I loved GI Joe more
We will eventually do Mighty Orbots.
Great video. Just to confirm, when both the Spirit's were put away in plastic bags were they both the same color? Id be surprised too if I opened it up 20 years later and the color had changed even though it had been in a box. Do you think always washing your hands before handling them would make any difference? I really think some of it is just luck of the draw too though. Like you my Stormshadow was the character I played with the most. To this day he is still white.
Really nice video as usual. Could you post the recipe for the retro bright you guys use. I'll use it at my own discretion
I love you guys!!
Thanks Miguel!
I seem to remember reading somewhere, that the whole point of those little doilies that slip over the arms of chairs and sofas, are to protect the fabric from the oils and dirt from our hands. Your theory sounds plausible to me.
I should have read Andrew Taylor's comment first.
It's often attributed to the bromide in the plastics. It was used as a fire retardant in toys for several decades.
Its been mentioned in the comments here and I've heard about people mention it else where and that its due to the Bromine introduced to the plastics as a fire retardant. Now with that said, I have experienced similar findings with my own toy collection. Mother bought toys that was designated for play and then toys marked strictly OFF LIMITS!! Its the same thing, toys that was heavily played with show it while the off limit toys look as new as the day she bought them...I'm talking mint condition! Then I have toys my mother bought me and my sister. One example is the 12" Star Wars figures. My sister didn't play with her's much and they often went un touched....in their original boxes. You can clearly see yellowing in my half of the 12" figures where her's look again as mint as when mother first bought them. Like you, I'm no scientist but I do have a speculation or a guess anyways. I wonder if the oils produced by our bodies caused a reaction with the bromine in the plastic...maybe execrating the process of yellowing? Again, I'm no expert in this field and just wondering.
I have often felt it was skin oils that effect white plastics but i often wonder however if it's the different grades of plastic used too..a mystery long standing for sure.
I have a Centurions Hacker that was sealed in a beaten up box, which I have since opened. Straight from the box it has yellowed, but only on the front where it would have exposure to sunlight. Of course that doesn't rule out oils from hands, as someone had to assemble it and put it in the box, but if it is a factor, then it would be a combination of oils and sunlight.
I also think the types of plastic used, or the way is manufactured has a factor in whether a toy will yellow, or not. My Hacker is yellowed on the body and the lower leg of the cyborg half, however the section that connects the two shows no yellowing. This could explain why one Spirit is affected and the other isn't, as these figures are made in many different factories.
About the finger oil theory: I recently bought a Hordak figure on a flea market with his original armor on. At home I tried to take the armor off, so that I could clean it. It was kinda difficult to take off, the hinges didn't want to let go, but eventually I managed. When the armor came off, I saw that his whole torso under the armor was badly yellowed, but no yellowing on the limbs or face. Just the part that was covered by the armor. Now I don't know if the previous owner played much with him with the armor off, but based on how "fused together" his armor was I'd say no. So that means no finger oil there, and yet it still discolored.
The mystery continues...
Yeah. I also have a Storm Shadow figure, that was my favorite and I carried it with me everywhere. When I went to college I put him with some other toys in a shoe box without any ziplock bags. He got yellow when I opened the box after a few years, so the process definitely happens without sunlight too, so there's got to be some other reason causing it. I was also thinking about finger oil. I'm guessing this is a real multi-factorial problem.
You might want to consider that Hordak's torso is made of a different type of plastic than his head and limbs. They are a softer type of plastic than the torso. The difference in the plastics might have something to do with the difference in yellowing.
My well used childhood Hordak had it's armor removed often fused in 2 years or less
Spirit with cool gray/green vest, Spirit without.
Before I even watched the whole video I could of told you the reason. He is telling you the truth. Hand sweat is slightly acidic. This will yellow/remove paint from toys after prolonged playing. Sunshine is the 2nd factor. Great video.
fascinating, seems probable based on your experience for sure.
What's the opinion on tackle box storage? I have pretty much all of my figures stored in those things.
Some people swear by it.
hi, are the new spiral light bulbs good or bad? I have book case with figures on it and I'm now wondering if they are ok.
Your spiral light bulbs are likely what they call 'compact fluorescent' (CFL) which makes them not only bad for your figures but they also contain mercury which is very toxic if one happens to break. I would suggest replacing them with LED bulbs which are non toxic, safe for your figures and your eyes, and emit a higher quality light for the display. They're more expensive but this is offset by the tiny amount of electricity they use and their extremely long life - usually around 20 years before replacement is necessary.
Very interesting. As far as i'm concerned, i'm sure that sun light IS the badest thing on toys and packages. UV rules .....Bad cheap plastic used by Hasbro do the rest...
For the all white figures, i saw a storm shadow re-painted with a good water based paint (citadel/games workshop) and a gloss vernis. It was really awesome.
nice video
Hey retroblasting, would it be possible at some point for you guys to a video on repairing and restoring chipped/damaged Chrome (vac metal paint ) on plastic and diacast pieces on toys, such as with some g1 transformers . If not then that's fine :p
+Brandon Ngui watch the R5-D4 restoration
I believe in your finger oils theory.
SALUDOS DE mERIDA MEXICO... I THINK THE YELLOWING is due many different cuases as the sun and the quality of the plastic mix... but most of all some kind of grease or oil.. and the sun and keeping lays of dust and many substances that you play as child like play doh or the OOZE.. humidity and probably even if they are in the tropic or in the northern cold region or south cold region where the sun is not so heavy .. here where i live i have some carded figures yellow inside the bubble ..without being played obviusly.. they were put at the sun in the flea markets and the sun in Yucatan is very Strong.. diferent to the sun of Mexico City or Monterrey where is cold
some yellowing can be erased but the most difficult in my experience is in the toy that has been played originally in the 70s or 80s and then stored.. for years
saludos siempre veo tus programas son muy divertidos y didacticos
Gracias por hacerlos
is there any anything that can remove the yellow from the gi joe terror drome? it's to big to try and drown in peroxide. any help would be appreciated.
Maybe you could do a show sometime on Joe file cards... I enlisted for four years as a teenager, and during one leave re-read my Joe file cards... a lot of the ranks don't jibe (they seem far too low--I remember Mutt being an E-4 (a corporal), but as the dog handling expert, he ought to be a sergeant. Grunt, the infantry specialist, may even have been an E-2 or E-3 private... I wonder where Larry Hama got his information from... was he former military? A special forces unit like GI Joe... in the real Army Special Forces, you must attain the sergeant rank in the regular army, then request a transfer to special forces. Privates don't join the army and go straight to special forces. Navy SEAL might be a different, but I figure they're all promoted to Petty Officer (navy sergeant) upon graduation. Army Rangers, however, let's you enter and train while a private. OK, that reminds me! Stalker's rank was far too low! IIRC, he was like an E-3 or something.
This is a real problem for all my Gijoe toys. To the point that they have discolored sooo badly that they don't look anything like what I remember. I did play with them constantly almost daily for years. Easily for at least 17 years. They all yellowed really really bad, including the USS Flagg and Gijoe base from 1982. They did go to storage just fine back in 2010 then in 2018 they were all yellowed to the point that were not recognizable.
It’s contaminants on the toy surface that cause the yellowing. Oils and acids from the skin creeping into plastic.
hi RetroBlasting went are you going to review the new voltron netfix
you should do a video on gold plastic syndrome.
I always found it interesting that some parts seem to yellow and others do not,for example the torso will stay white but the arms will heavily yellow. It could be less quality of plastic used for different parts or different plastics used from one figure to the next. It seems clear that there are different factors to yellowing,not one definitive answer.
Ha! I also zip-locked all of my Joes, only I stored them in a large, plastic ice cream tub. I should open them and see how they fair... I think about selling them on ebay, but old Joes out-of-package really don't command a lot, and the $200 or so I'd get for the sale wouldn't exactly finance a retirement... but the Joes would be gone forever... sigh.
I think it's from the element hot/cold, hot/cold over for a few decades in the attic its been exposed to the summer heat and winter cold over and over! It's basically being dry rotted!
New Retro Blasting Video: Today is a good day!
Polymers fail over time, for various reasons. Color change in a polymer is a sign that it’s composition is changing. They can become brittle or soft, change color, based on any number of environmental factors
Wow, you guys must have been very careful with your toys. Other than the discoloring those Spirits look so minty they made my breath smell better.
I will definitely get led lights now
I've seen some Star Wars General Riekan figures from the empire strikes back released in 2006, and all those I've seen are in the box and the torsos are extremely yellow and brittle. They aren't supposed to of course but any explanation as to why this would even happen to a newer toy in the box.
+Drew Bex gosh... Well the quality of new toys is pretty poor honestly. I'd imagine the plastic is just terribly cheap and aging quickly.
+RetroBlasting I'd image as well, but it doesn't really end there, I've seen figures Star Wars figures from 2002 with similar problems. But the Riekan figure I had unbowed busted open because what I believe the torso was yellow and brittle. As you said cheap plastics. But I think it's still worth noting that this is still happening. Really like your theory though because it makes total sense. I have figures from the Jedi line that were not played with as often, and are in immaculate condition. As opposed to my G-I-Joes or Star Wars/Empire figures, those were played with a lot and yellow as evidence.
I can't believe you still have all the weapons and gear.
It's a flame retardant chemical that was put in the plastic that changes color over time. Its the same reason some Nintendo systems turn yellow and others don't
0:23 may I have the Skystriker in a box? Had one in 1985 but Mom sold it at a garage sale when I was 12 along with all the rest.