Clear and concise. ,There is no detail that is not covered in an easy to follow fashion. This augments my confidence in continuing to maintain my 1964 356C that has followed me around since 1970.Thank you so much. You rock, Franny!
Thanks Tim, It can be a little fiddly, but being able to remove the entire distributor and work on the bench makes it much easier. I actually filmed a bit where I checked the Dwell with that meter, but couldn't find a reliable spec (about 50 deg is all I could find) so I didn't add that. Really, just replace, then set the points with the feeler, set the timing and that is it. What goes wrong and where I've gone wrong is to replace other good working parts like the condenser, rotor, plugs, etc. There is no need and the new parts can fail shortly after. Especially that condenser! I've run through several... I always keep a spare as well. Franny
Great did not get to play with these has electronic units were the main stream when learning the art of automotive repair Thanks guys all the best SoulDave
Very nice tutorial for the mechanically inclined yet not knowing how to do this. Thanks, this is great and I will use this on my 912 which is just a 356 in a new skin :)
I’m following your vid ,as I’m checking the assembly of my distributor. I have my engine in a stand ,I g as be power going into the coil(6v) but no spark comming out of the primary (coil wire to oil can strap... no spark when cranking the motor over, it’s a new coil,the neg. side of the coil is connected to the distributor body where the condenser/ point (small Bolt through the distributor body) Any thoughts? Thank you so much fir your great vids😊
Hi Franny, at the 26:12 mark where you’re doing the timing, right as your meter registers voltage we hear a ‘click’. Is that click from your meter or the spark plugs firing? I know from my motorcycles that you can hear the plug firing but I don’t know if you would on this 6 volt system. I’m fixing up and tuning my friend’s 356 and Irma super fun. Cheers from Sweden.
Nice work 😊,I’m going through the same process now on my 64c motor. I noticed your Bosch 6v Coil... is that original or did you get yours rebuilt,? Thanks again fir your easy to understand vids🤙🏽
Hi Franny, it's me again. I figured out and fixed the bad idle problem; the idle jets on the carbs were partially clogged so I cleaned them out and the bad idle went away. Now I have another issue. I decided to replace my VW distributor with one that is correct for the car. When I install it so that the two metal tabs at the bottom of the rotor post are seated in the two slots in the distributor port in the engine (with the engine turned to 5 degrees off TDC), the rotor is not pointing towards TDC, it's pointing more or less towards me and the contact is not closing on the meter. The rotor and tabs are not on the same plane and are offset; my VW distributor seems to be set up similarly. When I try to turn the rotor, it doesn't feel like it wants to turn back towards TDC and I don't want to screw up an expensive distributor. I messed around with this all day yesterday and part of today to no avail, so I thought I'd reach out again. What am I missing here? Thanks again for all your great videos!
Hi Franny, I'm a huge fan and am trying to get better at servicing and maintaining my 1961 356B. The idle on my car has been terrible recently and will usually crap out at any stop sign or light. I just changed the spark plugs and added new spark plug and coil wires, but the idle is still terrible. Sometimes when I start the car I'll get a sizable back-fire. What should I be looking at next to get to the bottom of this? Also, please do another video showing how to "efficiently" remove and replace the spark plugs towards the front of the car; I was able to get the spark plugs in and out okay, but getting the new wires on was another story entirely. I have Webers and there's no room to maneuver at all back there, especially with those tin covers.
Hi Alan, I will be filming an upcoming episode this weekend that will cover several of your points. This is a "C" car with a bad idle. Hopefully it will help! Stay tuned... Franny
@@HeidiandFranny Thanks for the quick response, I appreciate it and am looking forward to the next episode! Also, I read this on "The Samba" about a bad 356 idle and wanted to get your thoughts since you didn't demonstrate it in your video: "'Never forget to oil down the lower plate holes where the points are located to lubricate the advance and retard mechanism. Using light oil I pumped some drips into the hole not knowing where it would go. I didn't know then there is a 'sliding plate also involved as well as the springs to advance and retard the engine. I twisted the rotor back and forth and suddenly like magic it became easier and easier till it sprang back firmly to the stop. I started the engine and I could not believe it idled at 900rpm and has done so now for the past 4 years. All it took was a drop of oil!!". This is in addition to oiling the wick in the center post of the distributor, which I did but made no difference in the idle.
I should have shown that... The plugs were already gapped when I put them in new, but would have been good to just double check. That distributor cap I got from a re-builder here locally and is actually period correct (as is the funky rotor). They are really durable and even after a few years, there is very little if any wear. I'm actually surprised by just how well they are holding up!
Slightly confused Frannie, my 356B doesn’t have the tin covers over the ends of the cylinder heads that the HT leads fit through. I have looked on Stoddard and they don’t seem to sell them. Is this something that was only fitted to 356A models? Cheers Sid
So, are you saying that you can see the actual heads and cylinder cooling fins? It should be completely covered and there is a rubber gasket around the plug cap that seals the hole. If you are missing these bits, check with the resources on the 356 Registry and also with Sierra Madre Parts. Thanks,f
Just a question, maybe more from vintage motorcycling that may not apply to a 356. Are there any electronic ignition kits for these cars? [Those generally drastically improve ease of starting, etc. on an older bike that came with points] Would you consider installing one, if so? It looks like you are still running the original 6v system, so maybe one is tough to find. Nice video - very clear steps!
+Cam Walker Hi Cam, great question! They do have semi-electronic ignition kits for these cars and even for 6V, and they can, as you mentioned help with starting and such, but I personally have never seen the bed on our car. The car with a well serviced electrical system really runs great. Folks are always a bit leery of the 6V system, but they put out the same power as 12V, just at twice the amps. So, all the connections need to be kept really clean. I did install relays for the lights and starter relay, but other than that (and the LED tail lights) I really want to keep the electrical system as stock as possible. I guess for me, I'm willing to stay on changing points and such to stay more original. That is (weirdly) more fun for me ;) Franny
Just no need... They have less than 5K miles and can go close to 60K and are easy to clean. I pull them more for diagnostics reasons and I did find a rich cylinder... It is tempting to replace all sorts of parts, but things like the condenser, plugs, cap, rotor are usually just fine and only need to be inspected. I've had more problems (especially with condensers) with new parts than old known good, working parts. f
Excellent video. I love it. One question that I have is why you didn't do the advance setting? I thought you also need to check the advance timing when the RPM is around 2000 to 3000 RPM to see if the timing is around 30 to 35 degree?
Hi There, Thanks! No real need to set the timing dynamically unless you don't know your distributor. I have had the distributor mapped so I only need to set the start point. The amount of advancement (and max) is set.
Thanks you! I am watching his videos now - just wish I knew more Portuguese ;). Love his cars! Just beautiful. Looking forward to exploring his channel. Welcome! Franny
Franny i came here by the same reason from Gabriel. Marcelo Tonella is a great guy. Im Absolutly sure that you will enjoy his videos. Even if you dont understand portuguese very well the video shots by Bianca will help you to understand some things that Marcelo teachs. Im very happy with her recomendation and i hope that someday you and Marcelo could do some job together! Marcelo say something that i will try to translate. - The knowledge shouldn´t by monopolyzed we need to share they free! I see that you share the same toughts, its good to see that we have people like you two all over the world! Congrats for your channel, long life!
Clear and concise. ,There is no detail that is not covered in an easy to follow fashion. This augments my confidence in continuing to maintain my 1964 356C that has followed me around since 1970.Thank you so much. You rock, Franny!
Wow 1970! That's a long time :)
Hi there, this is the clearest video on how to set the timing and tuning a 356 engine. Thank you so much for sharing. Please keep them coming.
Awesome. Glad you are posting these. Not quite as intimidating as I thought it would be. Hopefully the carb work is as simple.
Thanks Tim, It can be a little fiddly, but being able to remove the entire distributor and work on the bench makes it much easier. I actually filmed a bit where I checked the Dwell with that meter, but couldn't find a reliable spec (about 50 deg is all I could find) so I didn't add that. Really, just replace, then set the points with the feeler, set the timing and that is it. What goes wrong and where I've gone wrong is to replace other good working parts like the condenser, rotor, plugs, etc. There is no need and the new parts can fail shortly after. Especially that condenser! I've run through several... I always keep a spare as well. Franny
That engine is so clean ! You really look after all your car's so well inside and out , the 356 looks like it's come straight off the production line!
Thanks! Lots of cleaning originally, but it is east to keep that way. f
+jam 68 you know Franny keeps all the engines this way. It's easier to determine when you have an issue too. Heidi
Great did not get to play with these has electronic units were the main stream when learning the art of automotive repair Thanks guys all the best SoulDave
Yup, pretty old-skool ;) I love that about this car. Thanks, f
Very informative, nice to see you girls are doing also different brands of cars , keep up the good work .
Greetings from Holland
Thanks Arnold! Greetings from Colorado :) F
Very nice tutorial for the mechanically inclined yet not knowing how to do this. Thanks, this is great and I will use this on my 912 which is just a 356 in a new skin :)
+matlecomte Yup! That should get you super close - just check the particulars like valve clearances and timing and such :) F
wow you make every thing look so easy.
Great video. And you did it in a white shirt with pearls.
Great 356 example...
Many thanks for your static timing information. My soft window 912 has never run better.
Yea! That's great!
I’m following your vid ,as I’m checking the assembly of my distributor. I have my engine in a stand ,I g as be power going into the coil(6v) but no spark comming out of the primary (coil wire to oil can strap... no spark when cranking the motor over, it’s a new coil,the neg. side of the coil is connected to the distributor body where the condenser/ point (small Bolt through the distributor body)
Any thoughts?
Thank you so much fir your great vids😊
Great Job, looking for ward to part 3
Thanks! F
Hi Franny, at the 26:12 mark where you’re doing the timing, right as your meter registers voltage we hear a ‘click’. Is that click from your meter or the spark plugs firing? I know from my motorcycles that you can hear the plug firing but I don’t know if you would on this 6 volt system. I’m fixing up and tuning my friend’s 356 and Irma super fun. Cheers from Sweden.
Thanks for your generosity
Nice work 😊,I’m going through the same process now on my 64c motor. I noticed your Bosch 6v Coil... is that original or did you get yours rebuilt,? Thanks again fir your easy to understand vids🤙🏽
Glad you liked the video :) I don't think it is original, but older... I'd love to find one with the correct date stamp ;)
Hi Franny, it's me again. I figured out and fixed the bad idle problem; the idle jets on the carbs were partially clogged so I cleaned them out and the bad idle went away. Now I have another issue. I decided to replace my VW distributor with one that is correct for the car. When I install it so that the two metal tabs at the bottom of the rotor post are seated in the two slots in the distributor port in the engine (with the engine turned to 5 degrees off TDC), the rotor is not pointing towards TDC, it's pointing more or less towards me and the contact is not closing on the meter. The rotor and tabs are not on the same plane and are offset; my VW distributor seems to be set up similarly. When I try to turn the rotor, it doesn't feel like it wants to turn back towards TDC and I don't want to screw up an expensive distributor. I messed around with this all day yesterday and part of today to no avail, so I thought I'd reach out again. What am I missing here?
Thanks again for all your great videos!
It may be that your distributor drive is in backward... Verify it is correct with the service manual. Start there...
Parabéns, muito bom trabalho. Very good job.
+Marcos Heberle thank you.
What is the width of the feeler gauge. you omitted that.
The width or the thickness? The width is about a cm...
Hi Franny, I'm a huge fan and am trying to get better at servicing and maintaining my 1961 356B. The idle on my car has been terrible recently and will usually crap out at any stop sign or light. I just changed the spark plugs and added new spark plug and coil wires, but the idle is still terrible. Sometimes when I start the car I'll get a sizable back-fire. What should I be looking at next to get to the bottom of this? Also, please do another video showing how to "efficiently" remove and replace the spark plugs towards the front of the car; I was able to get the spark plugs in and out okay, but getting the new wires on was another story entirely. I have Webers and there's no room to maneuver at all back there, especially with those tin covers.
Hi Alan, I will be filming an upcoming episode this weekend that will cover several of your points. This is a "C" car with a bad idle. Hopefully it will help! Stay tuned... Franny
@@HeidiandFranny Thanks for the quick response, I appreciate it and am looking forward to the next episode!
Also, I read this on "The Samba" about a bad 356 idle and wanted to get your thoughts since you didn't demonstrate it in your video: "'Never forget to oil down the lower plate holes where the points are located to lubricate the advance and retard mechanism. Using light oil I pumped some drips into the hole not knowing where it would go. I didn't know then there is a 'sliding plate also involved as well as the springs to advance and retard the engine. I twisted the rotor back and forth and suddenly like magic it became easier and easier till it sprang back firmly to the stop. I started the engine and I could not believe it idled at 900rpm and has done so now for the past 4 years. All it took was a drop of oil!!".
This is in addition to oiling the wick in the center post of the distributor, which I did but made no difference in the idle.
Very nice videos but I note that you did not check the Spark Plug Gap or for any corrosion on the Distributor Cap Contacts.
I should have shown that... The plugs were already gapped when I put them in new, but would have been good to just double check. That distributor cap I got from a re-builder here locally and is actually period correct (as is the funky rotor). They are really durable and even after a few years, there is very little if any wear. I'm actually surprised by just how well they are holding up!
Slightly confused Frannie, my 356B doesn’t have the tin covers over the ends of the cylinder heads that the HT leads fit through. I have looked on Stoddard and they don’t seem to sell them. Is this something that was only fitted to 356A models? Cheers Sid
So, are you saying that you can see the actual heads and cylinder cooling fins? It should be completely covered and there is a rubber gasket around the plug cap that seals the hole. If you are missing these bits, check with the resources on the 356 Registry and also with Sierra Madre Parts. Thanks,f
Just a question, maybe more from vintage motorcycling that may not apply to a 356. Are there any electronic ignition kits for these cars? [Those generally drastically improve ease of starting, etc. on an older bike that came with points] Would you consider installing one, if so? It looks like you are still running the original 6v system, so maybe one is tough to find. Nice video - very clear steps!
+Cam Walker Hi Cam, great question! They do have semi-electronic ignition kits for these cars and even for 6V, and they can, as you mentioned help with starting and such, but I personally have never seen the bed on our car. The car with a well serviced electrical system really runs great. Folks are always a bit leery of the 6V system, but they put out the same power as 12V, just at twice the amps. So, all the connections need to be kept really clean. I did install relays for the lights and starter relay, but other than that (and the LED tail lights) I really want to keep the electrical system as stock as possible. I guess for me, I'm willing to stay on changing points and such to stay more original. That is (weirdly) more fun for me ;) Franny
Thanks for the reply, Franny. You do look like you're enjoying the maintenance! Good show, Cam
Why don´t you change the spark plugs?
Just no need... They have less than 5K miles and can go close to 60K and are easy to clean. I pull them more for diagnostics reasons and I did find a rich cylinder... It is tempting to replace all sorts of parts, but things like the condenser, plugs, cap, rotor are usually just fine and only need to be inspected. I've had more problems (especially with condensers) with new parts than old known good, working parts. f
Excellent video. I love it. One question that I have is why you didn't do the advance setting? I thought you also need to check the advance timing when the RPM is around 2000 to 3000 RPM to see if the timing is around 30 to 35 degree?
Hi There, Thanks! No real need to set the timing dynamically unless you don't know your distributor. I have had the distributor mapped so I only need to set the start point. The amount of advancement (and max) is set.
Thank you and please continue with your good work !!!!
Nice video, I'm fron Brazil. Search on TH-cam "Marcelo Tonella" he does a job looks like you... Thanks for the video.
Nice Job
Thanks you! I am watching his videos now - just wish I knew more Portuguese ;). Love his cars! Just beautiful. Looking forward to exploring his channel. Welcome! Franny
Franny i came here by the same reason from Gabriel. Marcelo Tonella is a great guy. Im Absolutly sure that you will enjoy his videos. Even if you dont understand portuguese very well the video shots by Bianca will help you to understand some things that Marcelo teachs. Im very happy with her recomendation and i hope that someday you and Marcelo could do some job together! Marcelo say something that i will try to translate. - The knowledge shouldn´t by monopolyzed we need to share they free!
I see that you share the same toughts, its good to see that we have people like you two all over the world!
Congrats for your channel, long life!
I am enjoying the Tonella Videos! I don't understand the language, but the emotion comes right through. :)