I watched different videos to be prepared for this DIY job, but this video is by far the best one. Thumbs up and thank you so much for your effort and professionality!
You are clearly a professional, as there was no swearing in this video. Those ball joints are a pain to get out....I had a 6ft cheater bar and still needed all my strength!
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to make this video. I just finished the process on my 2007 E320, and it was a huge help. As I torqued the bolts it occurred to me that if I were to do over again, I should probably have considered replacing the struts while I was at it since the car has 160,000 miles on it, and it is going to have to be realigned.
Brilliant photography and production. Well done. I wish other TH-camrs will learn from your efforts to produce quality material like this. This gave me a lot of confidence to do my w211 with the same problem. One thing I found useful in doing the job is a long breaker bar to remove the ball joint. It was easier to refit it than to remove it. The other tools recommended here are a must.
You definitely need a break long breaker bar if you don't have a 1/2" impact wrench... if you can it's nice to have both. I used my Milwaukee M12 Fuel 1/2" electric impact for this job, it worked excellent and was pretty affordable. I bought it specifically for front end work and I'm so glad I did.
This was such an informative video. I had the squeak in my 05 CDI. I replaced all the same parts shown here and the squeak is gone. It had been driving me crazy trying to figure out what it was. Both lower ball joints had play in them. One control arm had a torn boot and the other had the bushing all worn.
Nice car!! Mine had that squeak too, but was a 4matic not RWD. Ball joint on passenger side. 1 hour to fix with the ball joint tool. Thank you for the informative video. Saved me boat loads of time and $. P.S. Love all your videos..very professional.
Wow, this is the first time I make a comment on any TH-cam videos but I had to, the best edited video I have seen, super professional and to the point with all details juts in a few minutes. All torque procedures listed as well as this is the most important part of the job. Thank you so much, great back ground music as well. A+++++++
Nice vid! I had an 03 E320 and did this back then on it. The only thing I did different was I removed the brake caliper, tie rod, and upper ball joint so i could just flop down the entire assembly and it gave a ton of room to work with. I also did not have 4matic on mine so it made it alittle easier
Great video for this write-up! My W220 is doing exactly that! Looks like I will be changing my ball joints too. Oddly enough my W220 uses the same part number. Thank you!
Great video, but it is important to note that this is on the RWD model and not the 4Matic. The 4Matic can experience squeaky bushings, but the job is significantly harder, the control arms much more expensive & special tools required to replace just the bushing.
Great video thank you. I have been grappling with a squeak as well. I have an e350 2007. My squeak only occurs when I back up. Brakes and rotors are new but it still seems to be the brakes. Old MB are so much better than new ones I agree. w211 has a gorgeous line.
Thanks for the video. I just paid professional mechanics to replace both control arms on both front wheels to get rid of an annoying knock. When they were finished, the front end was too low. The idiots test drove it and the tires rubbed and flared out the fender lips on both sides. The mechanics claim something is wrong with the coilover suspension, which is why it is too low. To fix it, they jacked up the front of the car then retorqued the control arm bolts. The car rides the right height now and feels fine, but next week the coilover shop is going to untorque and adjust everything. The coilover shop says the new control arms had to be the wrong size or have a slightly different angle. Ever heard of something like this?
Do you know what the part number is on your control arms? Should be 2113304411on the right side and 2113304311 on the left side. It might say on your bill from the shop. Also, what brand coilovers do you have?
+AMGmeister I will check that tomorrow. The coilovers are from Strutmasters which is close to me in North Carolina and their shop did the installation and will do the resizing on the 26th.
Did u possibly hit any pot holes? Get an estimate on alignment. My front flares were cutting my tires up on driver side. Alignment fixed everything, of course by heating it up by a professional that would actually do it.... Haven't had a problem since. Roads are awful in Michigan. 2004 E55 115k on it
Really nice job. One question: Is the removes ball join on the knuckle just press fit? not even a circlip or something like that? Looks strange to me but I have not seen any clip, nut...
one thing ive learnd from fixing my w203: tighten rubber bearings when vehicle is on the ground, otherwise the tensions inside the rubber will cause your control arm to break down within half of the estimated time
That same squeak takes place in W 906 Sprinter too. It is all about modern ball joints not having grease nipples. You need to renew a completely good and tight joint just because the grease in it has dried out. Today´s stupid throwaway idealism.
My E55 just started doing it @ 110k on the odometer. So annoying, easy fix. Control arms shouldn't matter. Awesome video!! Changing the upper and lowers on both sides. Car is still an unbelievable machine!
Hey, thanks for this great video! Is the ball joint press a special merc tool or a universal tool?? If it's universal, could you please tell me the manufacturer? This tool makes a decent impression.
hi there amazing video thanks..I've got a cls my lower ball joint is bad so going to try change it myself...does it need to go up on a ramp or can I do it myself at home?
@AMGmeister I've just finished subscribing; I have a request, Can you do a Video on how the process is different for the aforementioned title for a 2009 E350 4Matic?
AMGmeister subscribed!! btw could you please tell me if its only the ball joint that makes the squeak? my budgets very tight! also i can hear it only on the left side so can i just change the left stock ball joint with a lemforder brand ball joint?
Yes, the squeak usually comes from the ball joint. I would recommend you change both sides though - Just so you eliminate the problem for the future and the other side doesn't start squeaking.
AMGmeister according to others experiences, its only the left ball joint that squeaks.... maybe its because they change both or just sell the car to tackle it.
what was the original song you used for the vid? I have to change my passenger side ball joint and control arm this time, but this tune just doesn't do it for me.
@AMGmeister where can i find the torque specs? Im doing similar job replacing front lower forward and front lower rear control arms and ball joints on 2003 mercedes e500 also breaks and rotors. I would greatly appreciate some advice i cant find a chilton or anything anywhere
Good work and extremely helpful sir. Is it the same if I load the suspension with a jack or does the wheels have to be on and the can on the ground before torquing the bolts ?
I changed the "featherarms" this afternoon and balljoints. Cause of Vibrations upon 130 kmh. I took a second jackup for the last torque. I Lifted the airsuspension up before i startet the Work.
Great video guys. Will a generic master ball joint press kit work as well as a generic ball joint separator? Also what would the dealership charge to replace both lower ball joints and thrust arms?
Is there different kind of Ball Joint Separators? Because the one from Harbor Freight will not go over the top of Ball Joint, will likely rip the boot.
Do you need to lower just the front onto blocks or all 4 wheels? Doesn't the blocks create extra tension and weird angle? Wouldn't a flat surface be better?
So my car already has the lower control arm, it may be about 3 years old, do I need to replace it again along with the ball joint that I suspect the one making the noise
What about the R230 and the C215 both 500 engine with Luftfederungairsuspension on those . Does it cost a fortune here in Germany or Sweden? Some tip would be very good. Thanks a lot!
I have a 2005 E500 Airmatic..is this the front or rear? if this is the front, does the rear also have ball joints? my squeaking is coming from the passenger rear side. Driving me crazy.
Mechanic did this to my cdi sport package w211 from 2007. And now it sits 1 inch higher then before. They changes also stabilizer linkage. The car is no airmatic. Just old McPherson setup
Hello again 😊 My baby (CL55 AMG V8 Kompressor) needs some TLC, to be more precise i need to replace the Control arms, tie rods, tie rod ends and ball joints. Now, the original MB parts are very expensive but i saw there are some other after market brands like Karlin, Delphi, Myele and Lemforder, when Lemforder are second most expensive after the original MB parts. Are the Lemforder that good to justify the high price? or, are they the best quality from all the other after market brands? I dont want to buy the the MB parts becose obvious they are very expensive but neither the cheapest one's. In this video i saw you are using also the Lemforder parts.
My e320 is currently squeaking it’s the front passenger side and it’s embarrassing to drive. I wish i knew how to do it myself but I gotta wait to get the money to take it to a shop unfortunately.
I replaced all of this except sway bar bushings. Still has this rattle like a bad strut but struts replaced too. Seems floaty and like front end is loose. Could this be sway bar bushings?
Absolutely best video on control arms I’ve seen. Make it look easy. I still failed. The ball joint separator broke. I drove without a screw to the mechanic. Was overcharged. I’m done with Mercedes. Junk.
generally OK. but at 2:25, it would a lot lot easier to invert the tie rod separator. and using threadlocker on locknuts (you see those slots??) is probably just a little worse than a waste of time and money. thanks, though!
AMGmeister really? its been like 2 months for mee and i havent noticed any difference! if so im planning to change, only the ball joint should be replaced right?
Did you get it out with a ball joint separator in the end or did you just bash it out (I'm experiencing the same thing where the ball joint separator can't do it.)
@@lawrencedunn got it out with a separator but from memory it was a loud bang once it popped out. I would say spray it with penetrating spray over and over for a day to loosen it up.
@@abAMGab thanks mate, appreciate you coming back to me. Just broke the separator, so I'll pick up a can like you're saying and try again after a few days. Cheers
I watched different videos to be prepared for this DIY job, but this video is by far the best one. Thumbs up and thank you so much for your effort and professionality!
You are clearly a professional, as there was no swearing in this video. Those ball joints are a pain to get out....I had a 6ft cheater bar and still needed all my strength!
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to make this video. I just finished the process on my 2007 E320, and it was a huge help. As I torqued the bolts it occurred to me that if I were to do over again, I should probably have considered replacing the struts while I was at it since the car has 160,000 miles on it, and it is going to have to be realigned.
Glad it helped!
AMGmeister hey! is there any problem if its not fixed??
@@E55BaeMG everything will shake and eventually something will break making it dangerous to drive, wear out tires faster, poor handling, etc... Smh
Brilliant photography and production. Well done. I wish other TH-camrs will learn from your efforts to produce quality material like this. This gave me a lot of confidence to do my w211 with the same problem. One thing I found useful in doing the job is a long breaker bar to remove the ball joint. It was easier to refit it than to remove it. The other tools recommended here are a must.
You definitely need a break long breaker bar if you don't have a 1/2" impact wrench... if you can it's nice to have both.
I used my Milwaukee M12 Fuel 1/2" electric impact for this job, it worked excellent and was pretty affordable. I bought it specifically for front end work and I'm so glad I did.
This was such an informative video. I had the squeak in my 05 CDI. I replaced all the same parts shown here and the squeak is gone. It had been driving me crazy trying to figure out what it was. Both lower ball joints had play in them. One control arm had a torn boot and the other had the bushing all worn.
Nice car!! Mine had that squeak too, but was a 4matic not RWD. Ball joint on passenger side. 1 hour to fix with the ball joint tool. Thank you for the informative video. Saved me boat loads of time and $.
P.S. Love all your videos..very professional.
Damn I love your AMG videos man!
Perfect video......easy to understand. Make more videos like that pls.
Wow, this is the first time I make a comment on any TH-cam videos but I had to, the best edited video I have seen, super professional and to the point with all details juts in a few minutes. All torque procedures listed as well as this is the most important part of the job. Thank you so much, great back ground music as well. A+++++++
Nice vid! I had an 03 E320 and did this back then on it. The only thing I did different was I removed the brake caliper, tie rod, and upper ball joint so i could just flop down the entire assembly and it gave a ton of room to work with. I also did not have 4matic on mine so it made it alittle easier
Great video for this write-up! My W220 is doing exactly that! Looks like I will be changing my ball joints too. Oddly enough my W220 uses the same part number. Thank you!
Great video, but it is important to note that this is on the RWD model and not the 4Matic. The 4Matic can experience squeaky bushings, but the job is significantly harder, the control arms much more expensive & special tools required to replace just the bushing.
Thank you for the vid. By the way, at 5:42 the speed sensor wire goes on the other side of the brake line. See 2:05 for reference.
Great video thank you. I have been grappling with a squeak as well. I have an e350 2007. My squeak only occurs when I back up. Brakes and rotors are new but it still seems to be the brakes.
Old MB are so much better than new ones I agree. w211 has a gorgeous line.
Thanks for the video. I just paid professional mechanics to replace both control arms on both front wheels to get rid of an annoying knock. When they were finished, the front end was too low. The idiots test drove it and the tires rubbed and flared out the fender lips on both sides. The mechanics claim something is wrong with the coilover suspension, which is why it is too low. To fix it, they jacked up the front of the car then retorqued the control arm bolts. The car rides the right height now and feels fine, but next week the coilover shop is going to untorque and adjust everything. The coilover shop says the new control arms had to be the wrong size or have a slightly different angle. Ever heard of something like this?
What model of Mercedes do you have?
+AMGmeister. 2006 E55 AMG
Do you know what the part number is on your control arms? Should be 2113304411on the right side and 2113304311 on the left side. It might say on your bill from the shop. Also, what brand coilovers do you have?
+AMGmeister I will check that tomorrow. The coilovers are from Strutmasters which is close to me in North Carolina and their shop did the installation and will do the resizing on the 26th.
Did u possibly hit any pot holes? Get an estimate on alignment. My front flares were cutting my tires up on driver side. Alignment fixed everything, of course by heating it up by a professional that would actually do it.... Haven't had a problem since. Roads are awful in Michigan. 2004 E55 115k on it
Awesome video brother, mine just started squeaking... So annoying too.
Great video, thank you!!! 🇺🇸
I know the vid has been up for a while but it just popped up on my feed. As a newer subscriber, I appreciate the work you're doing.
Nice video! I have a w220 S600, same problem, going to shop tomorrow to replace the ball joint.
Really nice job. One question: Is the removes ball join on the knuckle just press fit? not even a circlip or something like that? Looks strange to me but I have not seen any clip, nut...
Thanks! The ball joint is just pressed into the knuckle, no clips or anything like that. It's a very tight fit so it's very secure.
one thing ive learnd from fixing my w203: tighten rubber bearings when vehicle is on the ground, otherwise the tensions inside the rubber will cause your control arm to break down within half of the estimated time
holy fuck i should've watched the video till the end, you really are one quality mechanic. german genes?
Doesn’t get any better than that. Good vid.
Great video. Very thorough directions verbal instructions would be a great addition
That same squeak takes place in W 906 Sprinter too. It is all about modern ball joints not having grease nipples. You need to renew a completely good and tight joint just because the grease in it has dried out. Today´s stupid throwaway idealism.
Yup, that's right. Fitted grease nipples on all ball joints, thought the car was going to last forever but other things wear out before.
My E55 just started doing it @ 110k on the odometer. So annoying, easy fix. Control arms shouldn't matter. Awesome video!! Changing the upper and lowers on both sides. Car is still an unbelievable machine!
Hey, thanks for this great video! Is the ball joint press a special merc tool or a universal tool?? If it's universal, could you please tell me the manufacturer? This tool makes a decent impression.
The c clamp is universal but theres a kit with specific cups for the w211
Nice Video but I am positive there is not one SAE bolt or fastener on a Mercedes anywhere.Noticing the SAE tool's.
Really really awesome.. Can fix it myself at my garage now hihi. Tq bro.
Great video , but the torque strut should be tightened when the suspension is pressed by car weight or a jack .
hi there amazing video thanks..I've got a cls my lower ball joint is bad so going to try change it myself...does it need to go up on a ramp or can I do it myself at home?
Thanks, for this video, the car is on jackstands on the front jack points behind the front wheels.
@AMGmeister I've just finished subscribing; I have a request, Can you do a Video on how the process is different for the aforementioned title for a 2009 E350 4Matic?
Do you reuse the torque to yield nut and bolt for the control arm?
Excellent DIY video
Don't forget to clip back the sensor wires at the end! Route behind the brake line! New E55 Videos and DIYs are coming soon, be sure to Subscribe!
AMGmeister subscribed!! btw could you please tell me if its only the ball joint that makes the squeak? my budgets very tight! also i can hear it only on the left side so can i just change the left stock ball joint with a lemforder brand ball joint?
Yes, the squeak usually comes from the ball joint. I would recommend you change both sides though - Just so you eliminate the problem for the future and the other side doesn't start squeaking.
AMGmeister according to others experiences, its only the left ball joint that squeaks.... maybe its because they change both or just sell the car to tackle it.
what was the original song you used for the vid? I have to change my passenger side ball joint and control arm this time, but this tune just doesn't do it for me.
@AMGmeister where can i find the torque specs? Im doing similar job replacing front lower forward and front lower rear control arms and ball joints on 2003 mercedes e500 also breaks and rotors. I would greatly appreciate some advice i cant find a chilton or anything anywhere
Great vid and thanks for helping us out but does this also work for newer benz. Such as e550 2015
Job well done you’re a true professional.
Great video, great looking new parts & superb W211, thanks...
if i'm replacing just the control arm, do I still need to remove the speed sensor? And thank you for the video, you're awesome!
Thank you! If you're just doing the control arm, the sensor shouldn't be in the way so you can just leave it.
great video. is the process the same if you're going to replace just the lower control arms? or do you still have to remove the ball joints? thank you
How about changing the front (rear) control arm and lower ball joint? I need to do mine? Similar process? Thanks so much!
Good work and extremely helpful sir. Is it the same if I load the suspension with a jack or does the wheels have to be on and the can on the ground before torquing the bolts ?
I changed the "featherarms" this afternoon and balljoints. Cause of Vibrations upon 130 kmh. I took a second jackup for the last torque. I Lifted the airsuspension up before i startet the Work.
It is not nescessary to take the Speedsensor of. Only the screw .
Great video guys.
Will a generic master ball joint press kit work as well as a generic ball joint separator?
Also what would the dealership charge to replace both lower ball joints and thrust arms?
Why are you putting thread lock on everything? Is it required by oem the repair manual?
excellent video prepared very well. I am going to do this to my w212
I did my E550 lower ball joint today HOLY MOLY its hard to get out lol. I need a better impact. Mechanic did my E55 luckily
Is there different kind of Ball Joint Separators? Because the one from Harbor Freight will not go over the top of Ball Joint, will likely rip the boot.
one more question can I use any ball joint presser or does it have to be the same as the one you used?
Do you need to lower just the front onto blocks or all 4 wheels? Doesn't the blocks create extra tension and weird angle? Wouldn't a flat surface be better?
Brilliant well organised job. It will help us guys in a big way.
NEVER use imperial tools on a Mercedes!!! They ARE METRIC!!!
hi, just wondering what do you mean by tighten and "turn 60 degrees" or "120 degrees"?
How did you manage to stop disc ftom turning while pressing out and pressing in ball joint??
Do you need to remove or loosen the control arm if you only want to replace the ball joint?
So my car already has the lower control arm, it may be about 3 years old, do I need to replace it again along with the ball joint that I suspect the one making the noise
What about the R230 and the C215 both 500 engine with Luftfederungairsuspension on those . Does it cost a fortune here in Germany or Sweden?
Some tip would be very good. Thanks a lot!
Hi. If I want replacement only ball joint should I also change control arm? Thank you.
For certain the ball joint press you suggest works on the W211 E55?
Mercedes switched from metric to imperial?
Only for the rounded off nut editions.
Where do you get all the toque numbers from? Did you buy a repair manual? Where can I find these?
I got a W218 CLS, would this solve my squeaking problems too? My car only squeaks when a goes over a big ditch or bump
Great video man. Keep it up!
cheers buddy once again amazing vid
Hello there... is your w211 air or springs and if so please can you give me part numbers on the springs and shocks ???
Nice video, that beat is FIRE tho!
I have a 2005 E500 Airmatic..is this the front or rear? if this is the front, does the rear also have ball joints? my squeaking is coming from the passenger rear side. Driving me crazy.
Mechanic did this to my cdi sport package w211 from 2007. And now it sits 1 inch higher then before.
They changes also stabilizer linkage.
The car is no airmatic. Just old McPherson setup
how much time can take to replace the parts in the video?
One of the lower control arms has another ball joint to replace and a bushing aswell IIRC
Doesn't the wheel have to be loaded or under weight before tightening?
Excellent tutorial
awesome! looking forward for future videos my friend
Excellent video!!!! I like the music.......
Was the squeak constant or intermittent?
Hello again 😊
My baby (CL55 AMG V8 Kompressor) needs some TLC, to be more precise i need to replace the Control arms, tie rods, tie rod ends and ball joints. Now, the original MB parts are very expensive but i saw there are some other after market brands like Karlin, Delphi, Myele and Lemforder, when Lemforder are second most expensive after the original MB parts. Are the Lemforder that good to justify the high price? or, are they the best quality from all the other after market brands? I dont want to buy the the MB parts becose obvious they are very expensive but neither the cheapest one's. In this video i saw you are using also the Lemforder parts.
lemforder are mercedes. mb does not make this stuff
What size is the E-Torx bolt at 2.37 in your video?
Thanks man!!! Nice Vid. Grooooovy music too.
Great and educative video!
My e320 is currently squeaking it’s the front passenger side and it’s embarrassing to drive. I wish i knew how to do it myself but I gotta wait to get the money to take it to a shop unfortunately.
Thx, nice video and good music choice!
I have a 2007 E-280, is this procedure fit to my car? thanks
Omg. Keep posting such education videos, please!!!!
Loved the vid! Good music too, thanks!
Why are you using standard sized sockets on a European car that uses metric bolts, nuts, etc.? Just curious.
I replaced all of this except sway bar bushings. Still has this rattle like a bad strut but struts replaced too. Seems floaty and like front end is loose. Could this be sway bar bushings?
i love this channel, thank you very much for this high quality videos and instructions, hope ill own an E55 soon as well :)
SUPER VIDEO.Th.Henry.
I am looking at the part number and the parts clerk stated I needed 2103300035. Is there a difference? I have a 2007 E350 Sport.
The number they gave you is incorrect. It should be 2113300435.
Absolutely best video on control arms I’ve seen. Make it look easy. I still failed. The ball joint separator broke. I drove without a screw to the mechanic. Was overcharged. I’m done with Mercedes. Junk.
Can’t remove control arm from the ball joint any tips ? It actually bent my ball joint separator. But couldn’t remove it.
I'm experiencing the same thing and thinking of cutting off the control arm and drilling through the bolt. How did you get it out in the end?
Will it fit for E280 2007 Elegance?
The upload is great, super job with the camera work! But the music is shockingly annoying, man. Muted.
hi, on W211 4-matic the part number is A 211 330 03 35?
generally OK. but at 2:25, it would a lot lot easier to invert the tie rod separator. and using threadlocker on locknuts (you see those slots??) is probably just a little worse than a waste of time and money. thanks, though!
Great video 👌🏻
Do you have the only mercedes on earth that uses SAE nuts and bolts???
How long did this job take?
Should tighten with under load with wheels on the ground.
Bad ass diy videos.
Great video
is there any problem if its not fixed??
The squeaking will just get worse and the car doesn't ride as it should.
AMGmeister really? its been like 2 months for mee and i havent noticed any difference!
if so im planning to change, only the ball joint should be replaced right?
My ball joint for the torque arm is tight as a mofo. Already broke one ball joint seperator
Did you get it out with a ball joint separator in the end or did you just bash it out (I'm experiencing the same thing where the ball joint separator can't do it.)
@@lawrencedunn got it out with a separator but from memory it was a loud bang once it popped out. I would say spray it with penetrating spray over and over for a day to loosen it up.
@@abAMGab thanks mate, appreciate you coming back to me. Just broke the separator, so I'll pick up a can like you're saying and try again after a few days. Cheers
@@lawrencedunn yeah it was definitely a 2 day job leaving it on jacks over a night