I love my pair of them I store my cars on them in the winter just to keep the weight off the suspension and the tires They are fantastic Well worth the money One twelve volt for the track one 120 volt for in the garage Covered either way They are fantastic I love my two sets one for each car No need for a jack anymore or jack stands There great easy and convenient and safer than a jack by far even with jack stands
Kewl Malibu - not sure what you are laughing about. This system is very sturdy. I keep my car raised 99% of the time and for months at a time. Zero issues and perfectly safe and secure.
kewl malibu I don’t know what your laughing either I live in Minnesota Kinda hard to drive three hundred horse power rear wheel drive cars in the salt covered snowy ass roads with three inch ground clearance I like my cars I have other trucks to drive when it’s not a perfect day
I'm old (75) and don't want to die with a car crushing my chest. So, when I do the exhaust on my mini-van, I'm going to raise the car up with the QuickJack and put a mounted tire under each wheel. That way, it can't fall low enough to smush me. When I do the brakes then I can get away with just using jack stands as backup supports since I won't be crawling under the car.
I don't see them used in this video, but QJ includes two "D"-shaped brackets, which have a channel cut into them. Even before I align the lifting blocks under the pinch welds, I slide the channel of the "D"-shaped brackets under the static frame of each lifting platform. The purpose of the "D"-shaped brackets is to act like outriggers for the lift platforms, to provide more stability when in operation. In addition, when working underneath my cars with the QJ, I position my one pair of Rhino Ramps underneath each wheel and parking brake set as a backup. I also position two jack stands at the opposite end of the car for added safety.
Pro tip.. read the manual and route the hydraulic lines properly. It also tells you that each side weighs almost double the 40lbs you claimed was heavy. (76lbs) So yeah, they are heavy. Great jack though. It makes brake work, oil changes, and tire swaps extremely easy. They are a little expensive to store your cars over the winter, but hey, if you have the money. This jack is probably best used in a garage but a car port is better than nothing.
I agree its a good option to use these... And I did misjudge the weight of the boards... However, I did reach out to QJ about the routing of the cables. They say it doesnt matter as long as its free from binds. Thanks for watching!
YOu know it would be pretty easy to fab up a small plate at on e end with wheels. Lift one end and roll it around. Surprised they haven't thought of it!
I got a Black Friday deal on the same model at Home Depot for $1059.00. Also got the special blocks for the pinch weld jacking points. (not on a Black Friday deal). And to the guy who thought they are too flimsy, they've actually been tested to hold 3 times the rated amount without failure.
You said its heavy but it is actually light considering the capability of the lift. I have a small garage and I am debating between a lowrise and midrise. Midrise I can sit down underneath and the quick jack low rise is light enough to pick up and store in a corner. Light does not mean the quick Jack is weak. There is a video on TH-cam showing the quick jack frame can support over 20,000lb
apache750 I guess the weight is all relative to the person moving it. But you are right, the QJ is anything but weak. The power of hydraulics and steel is not to be underestimated.
Thanks for showing exactly what goes into raising a car with QJ - man what a faff! That just a lot of back and forth and checking around and in the end you get just a few inches off the ground :(
He didn't read the instructions because they say to route the hydraulic hoses from the QJ UNDER the frame, not over it. I put mine together without any issues except they had almost half of the hydraulic tank full of fluid. I of course overfilled it with some of the second one-quart bottle still with fluid left in it. The other issue I had was that a 5mm angle wrench would not go into the bleeder screws but a 5/32 one would. It could be too much paint in the hole but even when I took the bleeder screw out I could not get a 5mm to fit it. My kit also came with a sealer rather than the Teflon tape. I called and waited for about 15 minutes to ask which they preferred to use. The manual says to use tape but they provided the liquid sealer. They said to use tape if I was proficient with it because a lot of people were allowing the tail end of the tape to get into the fitting holes. One Shrader valve on the air shock was loose and I didn't know it until I tried to fill the shock up. It also doesn't matter which end you approach the lift from as long as you allow for movement of the car once it is rising up. It moves in the direction of the lift arms. Knowing which way is in or out or wrong is easy. If the locking arms are not out then it is wrong. Make sure that the stickers are on the same end and you are good to go.
@@PointShiftDrive I assembled my lift today. A few comments. The black cylinder plugs were on extremely tight. I had to keep blasting them with Kroil penetrating oil and almost stripped the Allen threads. Pressure gauges on bike pumps are highly inaccurate. I used my small shock which I use for my mountain bike shocks. Much more accurate and less chance of blowing the seals. Instructions say wrap Teflon tape 2 to 3 times. Nope! Mine leaked bad. Had to wrap 5 to 7 times. I had to bleed the cylinder 3 times since I kept getting air bubbles out. The instructions should stress proper air bleeding. You need to buy the pinch weld blocks separately. Almost $100 with shipping. Total rip off! Overall I'm happy with it after my quick test. However, ALWAYS place jack stands underneath in case it fails. You don't have to rest the car on the jack stands but would come in handy if the car came down. And by the way each arm weighs around 80-90lbs. You must be super strong if they feel like 40lbs to you!
Lenser sorry you had such a terrible first experience setting it up. I hope you reached out to customer support to let them know. On any case now that’s it’s operational make sure to always exercise caution and be safe!
Not sure about this brand, but my full lift states right on the pump to NOT push the up button after releasing the button without waiting at least 10 seconds between. In other words, don't keep "bumping" the up button. Otherwise you'll be damaging the motor. Again, that is true of most hydraulic lifts, but I can't say for certain on this one...just a heads-up.
Hydraulic pumps have their “things” that you need to follow but to the best of my knowledge this pump didn’t have any warnings like that at all. That doesn’t mean it isn’t true but I would have thought they would have had a similar sticker warning on the kit somewhere if it was a problem like on your lift. They don’t. So maybe a question for QJ 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for the time to put this video, but seems like once you have the vehicle up, you can only enter and exit from the front or back of the car, right? That might be a little annoying to me
Some peoples "kids" lol...some of these comments are juvenile...good video with just the right amount of info for me to pull the trigger on a 7000....any feed back/review on the QJ a year later?
Glad I could help! I still like the QJ. I do wish I bought the 7000 so that I could use it with my truck as well. Just make sure to have clean cloths to clean it and make sure it’s oiled properly. You won’t be disappointed. Especially for the money
I don't need 7000 lb, 5,000 lb is good but I need 66" to fix my Mercedes. Have to pay extra $ 200.00 just for 6 more inches...Humm make it don't worth the $$
Looking at getting a set myself how stable was the car when up there ? Were you worried about it falling either the lift giving up or the car rocking over to the side of them ?
Matthew McRobbie nah. The car is super stable when lifted. The kit it self is pretty robust and surprisingly well made. I think the only factor is the ground you lift from. Just make sure it’s nice and level etc. I wouldn’t hesitate to climb under my car. Also remember there are safety laches that keep it from coming down. Hope that helps.
Just curious. Are they tough enough to leave in place and then just drive over them when you want to lift? Maybe lock them in place on the concrete so they stay semi-permanent?
Point.Shift.Drive Thanks, I looked at this and the 2 post short one the maxjax. My garage has an 8 foot ceiling. They both would lift my vehicles comfortably but the two post one seems like it would make it a little more comfortable to work under it.
TheChewyWun can’t speak for the Maxjax but the QJ will raise your vehicle about 2-4 feet off the ground. If I were you though, I’d just invest in a 2 post lift. Even tho you can’t use all the height, it will be more versatile for a permanent install.
You can't drive on them. You can store them under the car if there's enough width between your tires. I store mine under my car. When I use mine, I back the car out, pull the QJs out to each side. Pull the car in, and slide them between the wheels. These are NOT recommended to be stored outside or used in wet weather. They will rust. Likewise, maintenance is required on occasion. Check air pressure in the tanks; lube the joints.
Yeah. its a good idea. I thought the rubberized blocks that come with the kit would be fine but they did crush the jacking points a bit. Ill need to swap those out in the future
thanks for the review, is it light weight enough to store both parts standing up againt a wall ? aor wouls that be a struggle to do ?. I have heavy ramps now, thay are to big and heavy to store they are always in the way......
QuickJack markets the hooks for $32 to hang the lift platforms on the wall. The QJ lift platforms have small wheels at one end, so you can roll the platforms once they are slid-out from underneath the vehicle.
All wrong. Under not over with hoses. I did not pump air into assist and it works fine. Lifting car pressurizes them. Manufacturer says not to be used or stored outdoors.
This has already been debated. The manufacture will always tell you what will keep liability low. However the recommendation is that the QJ doesnt get wet and isnt in the freezing cold or extreme heat. In California, I think I am ok. Also the lines can go over or under. I asked specifically. They told me it doesnt matter since they are hydraulic. Lastly, the directions state to add air in the support chambers. If yours had enough or if they changed the design, thats great. However, if the directions tell you to do that, you should probably do that. take care.
RM Tbc absolutely! Though it doesn’t hurt to also use a couple extra floor jacks just Incase. But in person these are really robust. I think if you saw them live you wouldn’t worry.
I love my pair of them I store my cars on them in the winter just to keep the weight off the suspension and the tires
They are fantastic
Well worth the money
One twelve volt for the track one 120 volt for in the garage
Covered either way
They are fantastic
I love my two sets one for each car
No need for a jack anymore or jack stands
There great easy and convenient and safer than a jack by far even with jack stands
I agree completely.
Kewl Malibu - not sure what you are laughing about. This system is very sturdy. I keep my car raised 99% of the time and for months at a time. Zero issues and perfectly safe and secure.
kewl malibu
I don’t know what your laughing either
I live in Minnesota
Kinda hard to drive three hundred horse power rear wheel drive cars in the salt covered snowy ass roads with three inch ground clearance
I like my cars
I have other trucks to drive when it’s not a perfect day
I'm old (75) and don't want to die with a car crushing my chest. So, when I do the exhaust on my mini-van, I'm going to raise the car up with the QuickJack and put a mounted tire under each wheel. That way, it can't fall low enough to smush me. When I do the brakes then I can get away with just using jack stands as backup supports since I won't be crawling under the car.
Mystery47 you can’t be too safe. Good on you for working on your own car!
You sold me on finally buying this lift. It’s not getting any easier as aging continues. Great Job on the Video and conveying your experience.
Glad I could help!
The hydraulic hoses comes under the Frame - Not over !
Thanks for the reply. Ill look into it. Much appreciated.
@@PointShiftDrive Well? What is it, over or under?
@@salvatoreshiggerino6810 I asked the folks at QJ and they said either. As long as they dont get snagged.
@@PointShiftDrive Nice, thanks.
Directions now say to run Hoses under, FYI
Good tip on using a bicycle pump to pressurize it! Everyone else’s Quickjack video used shop air, which a lot of people don’t have.
Yeah, it worked perfectly
I don't see them used in this video, but QJ includes two "D"-shaped brackets, which have a channel cut into them. Even before I align the lifting blocks under the pinch welds, I slide the channel of the "D"-shaped brackets under the static frame of each lifting platform. The purpose of the "D"-shaped brackets is to act like outriggers for the lift platforms, to provide more stability when in operation.
In addition, when working underneath my cars with the QJ, I position my one pair of Rhino Ramps underneath each wheel and parking brake set as a backup. I also position two jack stands at the opposite end of the car for added safety.
Great video, useful info we need to know rather than just marketing hype
Pro tip.. read the manual and route the hydraulic lines properly. It also tells you that each side weighs almost double the 40lbs you claimed was heavy. (76lbs) So yeah, they are heavy. Great jack though. It makes brake work, oil changes, and tire swaps extremely easy. They are a little expensive to store your cars over the winter, but hey, if you have the money. This jack is probably best used in a garage but a car port is better than nothing.
I agree its a good option to use these... And I did misjudge the weight of the boards... However, I did reach out to QJ about the routing of the cables. They say it doesnt matter as long as its free from binds.
Thanks for watching!
!!!
YOu know it would be pretty easy to fab up a small plate at on e end with wheels. Lift one end and roll it around. Surprised they haven't thought of it!
I got a Black Friday deal on the same model at Home Depot for $1059.00. Also got the special blocks for the pinch weld jacking points. (not on a Black Friday deal). And to the guy who thought they are too flimsy, they've actually been tested to hold 3 times the rated amount without failure.
unquiltom I love mine! You also got a great deal. Nice work. Thanks for watching
was wondering about that as the blocks I saw were flat, and would rather not crush the pinch welds on mine and the wifes cars.
Mike B you can buy other blocks that will work for you car. Check amazon
Bought one this weekend, this video helped me come to an easy conclusion. Took 15 minutes to put it together and get it lifting. Cheers mate.
Happy to hear that! Hope you are enjoying it.
8 months later how much do you use and enjoy it?
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. I found it very helpful.
Happy to hear! And thank you for watching!
You said its heavy but it is actually light considering the capability of the lift. I have a small garage and I am debating between a lowrise and midrise. Midrise I can sit down underneath and the quick jack low rise is light enough to pick up and store in a corner. Light does not mean the quick Jack is weak. There is a video on TH-cam showing the quick jack frame can support over 20,000lb
apache750 I guess the weight is all relative to the person moving it. But you are right, the QJ is anything but weak. The power of hydraulics and steel is not to be underestimated.
Thanks for showing exactly what goes into raising a car with QJ - man what a faff! That just a lot of back and forth and checking around and in the end you get just a few inches off the ground :(
It’s a bit of work but still worth it.
Thanks for the review.
Lovely 1M mate
Appreciate that
He didn't read the instructions because they say to route the hydraulic hoses from the QJ UNDER the frame, not over it. I put mine together without any issues except they had almost half of the hydraulic tank full of fluid. I of course overfilled it with some of the second one-quart bottle still with fluid left in it. The other issue I had was that a 5mm angle wrench would not go into the bleeder screws but a 5/32 one would. It could be too much paint in the hole but even when I took the bleeder screw out I could not get a 5mm to fit it. My kit also came with a sealer rather than the Teflon tape. I called and waited for about 15 minutes to ask which they preferred to use. The manual says to use tape but they provided the liquid sealer. They said to use tape if I was proficient with it because a lot of people were allowing the tail end of the tape to get into the fitting holes. One Shrader valve on the air shock was loose and I didn't know it until I tried to fill the shock up. It also doesn't matter which end you approach the lift from as long as you allow for movement of the car once it is rising up. It moves in the direction of the lift arms. Knowing which way is in or out or wrong is easy. If the locking arms are not out then it is wrong. Make sure that the stickers are on the same end and you are good to go.
Thanks for the insight
I agree the connectors are a pain. It's very subjective how tight they need to be. I wish they had the adapters installed at the factory.
Lenser that would have made life easier... :)
@@PointShiftDrive I assembled my lift today. A few comments. The black cylinder plugs were on extremely tight. I had to keep blasting them with Kroil penetrating oil and almost stripped the Allen threads. Pressure gauges on bike pumps are highly inaccurate. I used my small shock which I use for my mountain bike shocks. Much more accurate and less chance of blowing the seals. Instructions say wrap Teflon tape 2 to 3 times. Nope! Mine leaked bad. Had to wrap 5 to 7 times. I had to bleed the cylinder 3 times since I kept getting air bubbles out. The instructions should stress proper air bleeding. You need to buy the pinch weld blocks separately. Almost $100 with shipping. Total rip off! Overall I'm happy with it after my quick test. However, ALWAYS place jack stands underneath in case it fails. You don't have to rest the car on the jack stands but would come in handy if the car came down. And by the way each arm weighs around 80-90lbs. You must be super strong if they feel like 40lbs to you!
Lenser sorry you had such a terrible first experience setting it up. I hope you reached out to customer support to let them know. On any case now that’s it’s operational make sure to always exercise caution and be safe!
@@PointShiftDrive I did. They responded very quickly and were helpful. They clearly care about their products and customer satisfaction.
Not sure about this brand, but my full lift states right on the pump to NOT push the up button after releasing the button without waiting at least 10 seconds between. In other words, don't keep "bumping" the up button. Otherwise you'll be damaging the motor. Again, that is true of most hydraulic lifts, but I can't say for certain on this one...just a heads-up.
Hydraulic pumps have their “things” that you need to follow but to the best of my knowledge this pump didn’t have any warnings like that at all. That doesn’t mean it isn’t true but I would have thought they would have had a similar sticker warning on the kit somewhere if it was a problem like on your lift. They don’t. So maybe a question for QJ 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks, fella - very inspirational! 👍🏻
Pete Curran thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing 😁
Thanks for the time to put this video, but seems like once you have the vehicle up, you can only enter and exit from the front or back of the car, right? That might be a little annoying to me
If you are referring to the access under the car, yes just from under the front or rear.
you should get the Bmw jack pads because that plastic will actually break without it.
The blocks that come with the kit are actually a relatively "soft density" which does a good job. i have had no issues on my car using these...
Some peoples "kids" lol...some of these comments are juvenile...good video with just the right amount of info for me to pull the trigger on a 7000....any feed back/review on the QJ a year later?
Glad I could help! I still like the QJ. I do wish I bought the 7000 so that I could use it with my truck as well. Just make sure to have clean cloths to clean it and make sure it’s oiled properly. You won’t be disappointed. Especially for the money
I don't need 7000 lb, 5,000 lb is good but I need 66" to fix my Mercedes. Have to pay extra $ 200.00 just for 6 more inches...Humm make it don't worth the $$
I am sure they are looking to make more $ from accessories... but thats not a crime. maybe there are other after market blocks you can use?
Im thinkin about purchasin one. Does the jack have a self leveling ability, or does the surface have to be completely leveled an flat?
TriLLzz - the surface needs to be flat
Looking at getting a set myself how stable was the car when up there ? Were you worried about it falling either the lift giving up or the car rocking over to the side of them ?
Matthew McRobbie nah. The car is super stable when lifted. The kit it self is pretty robust and surprisingly well made. I think the only factor is the ground you lift from. Just make sure it’s nice and level etc. I wouldn’t hesitate to climb under my car. Also remember there are safety laches that keep it from coming down. Hope that helps.
@@PointShiftDrive sounds good to me might be something I'll look at getting then as it would make life alot easier
Just curious. Are they tough enough to leave in place and then just drive over them when you want to lift? Maybe lock them in place on the concrete so they stay semi-permanent?
TheChewyWun I would say yes. They are steel and very durable.
Point.Shift.Drive Thanks, I looked at this and the 2 post short one the maxjax. My garage has an 8 foot ceiling. They both would lift my vehicles comfortably but the two post one seems like it would make it a little more comfortable to work under it.
TheChewyWun can’t speak for the Maxjax but the QJ will raise your vehicle about 2-4 feet off the ground. If I were you though, I’d just invest in a 2 post lift. Even tho you can’t use all the height, it will be more versatile for a permanent install.
You can't drive on them. You can store them under the car if there's enough width between your tires. I store mine under my car.
When I use mine, I back the car out, pull the QJs out to each side. Pull the car in, and slide them between the wheels.
These are NOT recommended to be stored outside or used in wet weather. They will rust.
Likewise, maintenance is required on occasion. Check air pressure in the tanks; lube the joints.
You should buy some BMW jacking point adapters as you are crushing the plastic jacking points.
Yeah. its a good idea. I thought the rubberized blocks that come with the kit would be fine but they did crush the jacking points a bit. Ill need to swap those out in the future
thanks for the review, is it light weight enough to store both parts standing up againt a wall ? aor wouls that be a struggle to do ?. I have heavy ramps now, thay are to big and heavy to store they are always in the way......
thats how I store them. its easy enough to lean on a wall. they even make hooks you can buy
QuickJack markets the hooks for $32 to hang the lift platforms on the wall. The QJ lift platforms have small wheels at one end, so you can roll the platforms once they are slid-out from underneath the vehicle.
God bless you brother!
Thank you kindly
All wrong. Under not over with hoses. I did not pump air into assist and it works fine. Lifting car pressurizes them. Manufacturer says not to be used or stored outdoors.
This has already been debated. The manufacture will always tell you what will keep liability low. However the recommendation is that the QJ doesnt get wet and isnt in the freezing cold or extreme heat. In California, I think I am ok.
Also the lines can go over or under. I asked specifically. They told me it doesnt matter since they are hydraulic. Lastly, the directions state to add air in the support chambers. If yours had enough or if they changed the design, thats great. However, if the directions tell you to do that, you should probably do that.
take care.
Would you say it raises enough to pull a trans out?
David DeBuhr I think so. I did an exhaust and didn’t feel too pressed for room. However you need it on its highest setting.
@@PointShiftDrive ty
I wish i could get another 6 in rise out of it!
Sounds like you just need a regular lift.
@@PointShiftDrive The mid rise options seem nice @ 40 inches.
Does it raise the car high enough to get the transmission out?
Matt T should be no problem to pull a trans. You can always buy taller chalks too for added height.
Cool but would you crawl or roll under it?
RM Tbc absolutely! Though it doesn’t hurt to also use a couple extra floor jacks just Incase. But in person these are really robust. I think if you saw them live you wouldn’t worry.
Top👍
the Zippy ties you do not DO. No NO NO. the Hydraulic Lines GO UNDER the Quickjack Frame
Oh this is heavy 40 lbs...BMW and zippy ties.....just screams millennial.